intertwined mind

INTERTWINED MIND

Process analysis

IFEOMA C.HOOD

INTERWINED MIND. Two hearts One soul.

Inhibiting two bodies.

On the 15th of January I went to the Tate modern gallery.I got inspired by Marisa Merz Living sculpture of 1966, made with Aluminium.

I also got inspired by Richard Sweeney’s Wet-folded watercolour paper, adhesive 2013 A superbly beautiful bird and a plaited movement sculpture. I love this its beautiful shapes and the plaited movement, which I find very inspiring.

I was also inspired by the Janet Echelman sculpture, and loved the delicate flow, interweave, and twist image.

Everything a person is and everything he knows resides in the tangled thicket of his intertwined neurons. These fateful, tiny bridges number in the quadrillions, but they spring from just two sources; DNA and daily life. The genetic code calls some synapses into beings, while experience engenders and modifies others. Thomas Lewis

Mood board:I have carefully created my base on the design I have in mind. I know I will be using 100% natural wood, I want my collection to have geometric shapes run-ning through their DNA, showing inter-twined feel and as well as being luxurious and urban.

Colour board.

Grey.

Thinking of natural, calm sea.

INTERTWINED MIND

Connection for A/W 2016/17

For this project, I was inspired by individuality, the way people from all around the world come togeth-er and live in harmony. A mind and body connected to the spirit will be lead to peace, prosperity, good health, healing and be fruitful.

As for my choice of colour, I decided to use Grey because it is more than a colour to me. It does not take sides, it is a colour of wisdom, knowledge and life well spent. I will intertwine three shades of grey, to rep-resent people coming together to create a better mankind.

My palette runs through the romantic rich dark Charcoal grey, with under layer glowing silk lining. A calm sky grey cloud, blended with dark wisdom grey.The paper plaited sculpture from Richard Sweeney demonstrates what I have in mind, by the way the sculpture is plaited just like the way people from all parts of the world come together in peace. I will use hard textured cotton fabric which is always kind to the skin yet strong enough to manipulate (intertwine).

My connection will include a Coat, dress, blouse, and skirt. The coat will be made of 100% natural wool fabric with a detail of intertwining. I will achieve this by manipulating my fabric.

COLOUR

I knew this would be challenging when using different shades, of the same coloured fabric together, but it would be amazing if I would achieve the perfect interweave.

My next stage is to start trying different shades of grey together with dif-ferent fabrics.

I have chosen grey, because it is a neural colour. I have used different shades as in sky ash or lead. It is dignified and classic as well as being con-temporary and elegant. I am looking ahead to make my grey the best that it can be, even though I know I will be taking a big risk.

Kamila Gawrońska-Kasperska will be in VFW S/S 2014 visualoptimism.blogspot.com.br/2014/05/pleats-and-plisse-fashion

Design developments 3D

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

1st Samples with paper manipulation.With my first design development, I have tried to make samples with paper from the images that I saw at the Museum. Though these were satisfactory, I feel that I could improve on the samples and crude design without using pleat-ing, but it was so beautiful when I pleated the paper. The hard bit was manip-ulating it on the stand. I managed it but it wasn’t clean enough. I guess it will look better on fabric.

I had so much fun doing this, as I can see how my design is going to look in 3D.Although it is was hard trying to make 3D out of paper. I tried everything I could think of to join the papers together, I tried glue, double sided tape and staples. At the end, I used staples to hold it together and which still would al-low me to do more work on it.

Fashion Architecture - 3D fashion - folds, angles & edges; sculptural

My second paper samples. I am not sure what I wanted to achieve, but I know I wanted to make something unique from of my paper samples, that would help me in my design.

At the end I was very pleased because I could see a lot of design po-tential. I really like the layering of papers together, and liked the way I manipulated it on the stand. At this point I got different ideas in my head imagining it, to be a real fabric that could the details. I could see it working on fabric, but the question is what type of fabric would be best to achieve this? The journey of discovery continues but at this point I didn’t want to spend any more time, because I was pleased with it, and just needed to try it out on calico.

3rd design development. This time with calico.

Using the paper pattern from my 2nd sample, I tried to work out how i will join them together in a beautiful way do that it looks like my 2nd pa-per sample.

So I used the paper pattern, to cut on calico, before laying it on a flat piece of fabric, which I used to sew them together.

At this point I thought had found a way to make the finishing to look beautiful.

I tested this samples in small and in large scale as well as on a mannequin. I repeated this design on calico with pleating. I fell in love with the beau-tiful finish with looks very good on calico.

Going back to my concept, and the brief and, asking myself how I could achieve this, bearing in mind it must be an Urban and Luxury garment. If I wanted to achieve urban wear alone I could go for having layers all over my garment. Luxury in the other hand just needs good detailing with a beautiful quality fabric. So at this point what should I go for?

Photoshop Illustration design developments.

First rough hand drawing of design development .

First sketches of the rough design. Though I am not very good at drawing I know I have to take time and think how i can create a realistic image. I enjoy doing design development (flat drawing) even

though it took a lot of time. I know I have to do it because from my flat drawings I will found my collection. I know I have push the myself if I want to achieve a unique design, which has never being seen before. I was most interested in the difficult designs.

Flat drawing design development.

One of three outfits. A Coat, a blouse and a full length skirt.The beginning of the journey, of making my final collection.

My first toile was a blouse and a full length skirt. When making the toile, I was full of anticipa-tion and was nervous, as this is my first attempt after few weeks of research and design devel-opments. As this is the last semester, I cannot afford to be confused, or to have anything in my way. so that i can concentrate my focus on my study which i enjoy.

To make sure I chose the best of my digital drawings I carefully chose the ones I like the best.

I finished my toile in a few hours, because didn’t what to spend any more time to perfect it, I just needed to see how it will look on a model. It looked OKAY but I not very happy with it especially the skirt so I decided to keep the design but change some of the details. I will be able to correct my mistakes in the toile fabric, and also in the detail. The design is okay with the soft fabric but it will not work for my detail as want it to stand out from the garment.

At this point it was hard for me to decide which fabric I should go for, considering I want the sleeve to have a sculptured look. I was hoping to find a hard fabric that I could achieve this.

The next stage for me now is to go fabric research.

My second garment is a geometric shape dress and a geometric jacket, with double label detail on the jacket, that was not too hard to achieve as I have already done it on my first coat, so I could focus more on getting the correct the shape that I want and which I have success-fully achieved on calico, both for the dress and jacket.

Starting to make the garment, I started with a wrong fabric, I did 80% of before realised that the fabric I was using would not achieve the look I am aiming for. I want my garment to be structured and want the detailing to show. I can say that it was the wrong fabric for the style.

Changing my fabric took a lot of my time because at this stage I don’t want to go fabric search or buying another fabric, not alone starting afresh but looking at the toile I made, I know to achieve what I wanted I have to get anoth-er fabric which I did. I just wanted my garment to be per-fect like I have imagine.

At the end I achieve what I wanted, got the right fabric, which was medium hard cotton. That shows all the details of my design very well, was hard enough for hardware zip, double label. I am very happy with the way it turn out. I can now take a deep breath.

My beautiful classic Luxurious coat made from100% wool

It was good to sew. Making this coat took lot of time, because I wanted to make sure it came out the way I imagined it.

Making a toile really helps as one can already see already that it is going to be beautiful and achievable. The real challenge was looking for a rich obedient fabric, that is flattering and kind on skin. The pocket detail, was not easy to join together, without making it to look heavy. It was good that the wool is not too heavy as it could have been hard to achieve the beau-tiful pocket and double label. During the process of making, I ironed each piece, making sure it was smooth before layer-ing another. My mind was always on the smooth fabric and keeping it clean around the edges. I am very keen on a good finish on a garment, (it is better for me to make a simple garment that will have clean finish than to make a complicated one with bad finishing). Doing that took a lot of time, and it was finished with a beautiful soft silk lining and a big made from the same fabric. Some sleepless night but at the end, it what it.

There is still lot of room for improvement to make as a designer but happy with my journey so far.My one of a kind coat.Love it. Dream can come true, one of mine just did.

Final line up

Urban girl, always on the move.

My girl she love fashion, she is at her happiest when she’s shopping from my collections.

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intertwined mind

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