indigo - wordpress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” collins said. “they have...

8
WEST HOLLYWOOD BOUND Accessories brand Parabellum is set to open its first store. Page MW2 Lone Star Fashion Texas Gov. Rick Perry’s problems extend to his wardrobe. Page MW2 MAN OF THE WEEK by JEAN E. PALMIERI LAS VEGAS — It’s all about the item. Whether it’s the jogger, the hybrid sneak- er, technical outerwear or distressed denim, retailers pored through thousands of brands at more than six large shows here searching for products to excite their customers in the upcoming spring season. But some stores complained that the fashion message was diluted by the large number of shows and duplicative brands that filled the aisles. “There are not enough hot items in the industry to support all these trade shows,” said Scott Collins, chief merchandising of- ficer of Downtown Locker Room, an urban retailer based in Baltimore. “We’re not as brand-driven these days. We’re just looking for the best items at the best price with the best delivery so we can stay in stock.” These items include joggers, non-denim shorts and wild patterns that the young customer can mix and match at will. “They’re wear- ing plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s wear minus boundaries.” Tim Bess, men’s fashion trend analyst, pointed to three key trends for the season: The crossover between the contemporary and streetwear markets in pieces such as updated sneakers, elongated tops and ac- tive-influenced bottoms. The “completer piece,” which is defined as everything from patterned socks and bracelets to lightweight technical outerwear and Neoprene hoodies. The rule breaker, where guys mix tradi- tional tailored fabrics with mesh accents, jog- gers with sport coats and florals with stripes. Bryan Reynolds, vice president and gener- al merchandise manager of men’s for Scoop, said he was hunting for “any new brands and product not offered at the trade shows in New York.” He said that while the season’s buzzi- est item, the jogger, is “still relevant, I wonder how long the legs are.” He was also intrigued by the “new fabric combinations,” particu- larly technical fabrications, but wondered how best to communicate those attributes to the consumer. Mirrored sunglasses were also seen as a trend-right product. “Our business is really good right now and we’re excited for fall,” he said. “Some product is already checking and denim is coming back in different washes. It’s some- thing the customer doesn’t have.” Wally Naymon of Kilgore Trout in Cleveland said current business is good, but remained cautious. “You can’t really trust any- thing. You can have a good day, a good week or a good month and that can be followed by a bad day, a bad week or a bad month. But lately, things have been percolating.” {Continued on page MW4} August 21, 2014 Indigo Days Japanese workwear references, elongated tunics, tie-dye effects and the omnipresent jogger — all in the season’s dominant indigo blue color — were some of the key trends from the Las Vegas trade shows. For more on the shows, see pages MW4 through MW8. SPRING WRAP Stores Seek Items To Drive Volume Key pieces for spring include updated bottoms, footwear and accessories. Todd Snyder’s linen jacket, Steven Alan’s cotton shirt and Vince’s cotton jogger pants. PHOTO BY BRYAN HARAWAY; MODEL: RYAN HUNTER AT WILHELMINA LA; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO

Upload: others

Post on 12-Jul-2020

5 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

WEST HOLLYWOOD BOUNDAccessories brand Parabellum is set to open

its first store. Page MW2

Lone Star FashionTexas Gov. Rick Perry’s problems extend to his

wardrobe. Page MW2

MAN OF THE WEEK

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

LAS VEGAS — It’s all about the item.Whether it’s the jogger, the hybrid sneak-

er, technical outerwear or distressed denim, retailers pored through thousands of brands at more than six large shows here searching for products to excite their customers in the upcoming spring season. But some stores complained that the fashion message was diluted by the large number of shows and duplicative brands that filled the aisles.

“There are not enough hot items in the industry to support all these trade shows,” said Scott Collins, chief merchandising of-ficer of Downtown Locker Room, an urban retailer based in Baltimore. “We’re not as brand-driven these days. We’re just looking for the best items at the best price with the best delivery so we can stay in stock.” These items include joggers, non-denim shorts and wild patterns that the young customer can mix and match at will. “They’re wear-ing plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.”

The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s wear minus boundaries.” Tim Bess, men’s fashion trend analyst, pointed to three key trends for the season:■ The crossover between the contemporary and streetwear markets in pieces such as updated sneakers, elongated tops and ac-tive-influenced bottoms.■ The “completer piece,” which is defined as everything from patterned socks and bracelets to lightweight technical outerwear and Neoprene hoodies.■ The rule breaker, where guys mix tradi-tional tailored fabrics with mesh accents, jog-gers with sport coats and florals with stripes.

Bryan Reynolds, vice president and gener-al merchandise manager of men’s for Scoop, said he was hunting for “any new brands and product not offered at the trade shows in New York.” He said that while the season’s buzzi-est item, the jogger, is “still relevant, I wonder how long the legs are.” He was also intrigued by the “new fabric combinations,” particu-larly technical fabrications, but wondered how best to communicate those attributes to the consumer. Mirrored sunglasses were also seen as a trend-right product.

“Our business is really good right now and we’re excited for fall,” he said. “Some product is already checking and denim is coming back in different washes. It’s some-thing the customer doesn’t have.”

Wally Naymon of Kilgore Trout in Cleveland said current business is good, but remained cautious. “You can’t really trust any-thing. You can have a good day, a good week or a good month and that can be followed by a bad day, a bad week or a bad month. But lately, things have been percolating.”

{Continued on page MW4}

August 21, 2014

PHOT

O BY

Headline Tk HereDek Ommoluptatium fa-ciis verumet rendus et hil ius voloreriorem aut del

maiore con rentemp er-

Indigo DaysJapanese workwear references, elongated tunics, tie-dye effects and the omnipresent jogger — all in the season’s dominant indigo blue color — were some of the key trends from the Las Vegas trade shows. For more on the shows, see pages MW4 through MW8.

SPRING WRAP

Stores Seek Items To Drive VolumeKey pieces for spring include updated bottoms, footwear and accessories.

Todd Snyder’s linen jacket, Steven Alan’s cotton shirt and Vince’s cotton jogger pants.

PHOT

O BY

BRY

AN H

ARAW

AY; M

ODEL

: RYA

N HU

NTER

AT

WIL

HELM

INA

LA; S

TYLE

D BY

ALE

X BA

DIA;

FAS

HION

ASS

ISTA

NT: L

UIS

CAM

PUZA

NO

Page 2: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

Men’s WeekMW2 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2014

Man of THE WEEK RICK PERRY: C

The beleaguered yet belligerent Texas governor could fill in as an extra on “The Sopranos” with this oversize black jacket, black polo and outdated shades.

The wraparound Nineties-style sunglasses are not flattering for his features. A rounded, more updated frame would work better.

It’s time to use some heavy moisturizer after shaving. Maybe look for a cream with collagen in it. He’s losing volume.

Although the tonal black polo/blazer combo sounds good on paper, on him, it comes across a bit too Guido.

He obviously didn’t get the

memo that soft tailoring is in. The ill-fitting

power suit blazer looks as outdated

as the eyewear.

He loves this Western belt — he wore it all through his first presidential primary bid in 2011. But he’s from Texas, so we’ll excuse it. And it enhances the Nineties flair of the outfit.

High-waisted pleated pants on

a man like him are the fashion kiss of

death. However, they were really trending on the

runway this season, so maybe he’s

ahead of his time. Or not....

The shoes look extremely comfortable but they lack style. A pair of traditional

lace-ups would be best, but we’re at least thankful that

they’re not cowboy boots.

We’re thankful that he’s chosen not to cover up his

gray hairs. It makes him look less ridiculous.

Parabellum Opens First Retail Storeby RACHEL BROWN

LOS ANGELES — In a world filled with disposable fashions, Parabellum cofounders Jason Jones and Mike Feldman are outspoken advocates of durable accessories — and they are taking that advocacy to the street with their brand’s first physical retail location opening Friday in West Hollywood, Calif.

Neighboring Paul Smith on the highly visible corner of Melrose Avenue and Harper Avenue, the 1,100-square-foot store contains the widest breadth of Parabellum merchandise available anywhere, including some 65 styles of belts that are showcased in a belt li-brary on one side of the space. Priced from $125 to $2,800 at retail, Parabellum’s accessories are craft-ed from American bison leather, military-grade ceramic and Kevlar.

During a tour of the store, which is not too far from an antique shop Jones’ father had on Western Avenue for decades, Feldman said, “I don’t think this is a big step for us. Jason literally grew up in a store. People have been coming to our workshop for years, and they really dig it. They like the hides and the antiques. We just wanted to take that workshop and polish it up a bit.”

The white brick exterior and in-terior walls of the Parabellum loca-tion are vestiges of its previous in-carnations as Ever and Civilianaire, but the store is undeniably a Parabellum creation and peppered with the brand’s signature design elements. Steel-and-glass display tables have legs shaped like arrows (Parabellum’s arrow key chains are best-selling items) and 45-degree-angle edges on their tops are remi-niscent of a construction technique used in Parabellum’s small leather goods to prevent them from catch-ing on pockets. The outside of the

store is emblazoned with shifting Latin sayings — the inaugural say-ing translates to “united we stand, divided we fall” — and an entrance at a 45-degree-angle, a sign to Jones that the space “was meant for us.”

“We invested more in fixtures and presentation than in re-building the space,” explained Feldman, describing the store as encompassing “a sea of glass.” It’s not all glass at the store, though. There’s an eight-foot black bison leather couch with bear-claw feet (Parabellum has miniature ver-sions of the bear-claw feet on se-lect purse styles); a charcoal work depicting a bison by artist Rick

Shaefer, and an array of antiques from Jones’ personal stash, notably several obelisk figurines.

“The bulk of this was on my fa-ther’s desk when he died. He col-lected obelisks,” said Jones of the antiques in the store. “They have a personal meaning to us, and the con-cept of the store was to show who we are. It’s not just about our product.”

The merchandise is presented without barriers, so customers can easily view how each bag, wal-let or belt is distinct and touch the

textured bison leather. Talking about a bag in the store, Jones explained it was built from 150 pieces and they all came from the same hide for color consistency. Turning to a belt, he revealed how the leather that made it started with material from the bison’s shoulder and went to material from its belly to make it uniquely detailed. “A commercial brand wouldn’t have that kind of indi-viduality,” he said, adding, “The intention is always to make things that last forever.”

The store’s assortment fea-tures collaboration merchandise such as Parabellum’s eyewear

with Oliver Peoples and furniture with Blackman Cruz, as well as the brand’s women’s styles, which were launched in 2012 and now ac-count for half of its sales.

Difficult parking and infrequent foot traffic plague street retail in Los Angeles, but Feldman and Jones don’t foresee those issues affecting Parabellum’s Melrose Avenue location too much. “There is a nail salon next door, and there’s a parade of pretty ladies,” laughed Jones. Reformation, Vivienne

Westwood, Decades and Original Penguin are nearby as well.

Feldman feels the West Hollywood portion of Melrose Avenue is experiencing a retail comeback. “All you have to do is

drive down the street to see a lot of places trading hands,” he said. “It was really hot and then other neighborhoods popped up — Venice and downtown — and that diminished the strength of West Hollywood. Those other places aren’t going away, but this section of Melrose is seeing a resurgence because L.A. is getting bigger and better and maturing.”

Industry sources estimated that fashion brands along the stretch of Melrose Avenue where Parabellum’s store is located reg-ularly generate $1,000 in annual sales per square foot. That figure would mean Parabellum could an-ticipate yearly sales of $1.1 million. Declining to put a number on the brand’s sales expectations for the store, Feldman said, “Our goals are not specific, but more holistic.”

Next year, Feldman said Parabellum might consider a New York store. The company has al-ready received a stamp of approval from the New York fashion commu-nity in the form of being named one

of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists last year. With that recogni-tion, Feldman said the fashion in-dustry’s “eyes were on us,” an atypi-cal experience for a Los Angeles brand. “People forget about L.A.,” he said, not that he’s complaining about Parabellum’s Los Angeles headquarters. “Here we have room to really hone our style, and be what we want to be,” said Feldman.

Feldman and Jones are glad to be venturing into retail in the city where Parabellum and Jones were born. (Feldman is originally from Detroit.) “We’ve been all over the world so many times, and it’s ex-citing to be in our hometown and accessible here,” said Feldman. “There are people with really sharp design sense here and cul-tured tastes, and we can connect with them on a local level here.”

Trinity Profits Slip in First Halfby ELLEN SHENG

HONG KONG — Men’s wear re-tailer Trinity Ltd. posted a 47.3 percent drop in net profits in the first half amid ongoing economic slowdown in China.

The Hong Kong-based company, which manages five brands includ-ing Cerruti 1881, Gieves & Hawkes and Kent & Curwen, reported net profits in the first six months of the year of 79 million Hong Kong dol-lars, or $10.2 million. Trinity said that more than 90 percent of the profit drop was due to the decline in revenue and a swing in unreal-ized foreign exchange gains and losses. Revenues declined 5.9 per-cent to 1.26 billion Hong Kong dol-lars, or $162.5 million.

The “Chinese mainland is hav-ing slower growth than we antici-pated. There is a frugality drive and we’re seeing an increase in costs both in rents and in person-nel,” said Richard Cohen in his first press conference as Trinity’s new chief executive officer. Cohen, who started at Trinity in May, has almost 40 years of experience at brands and retailers including Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna, Saks Fifth Avenue and St. John.

Trinity reduced the total number of stores in Greater China by 18 dur-ing the first half of the year, while same-store sales in mainland China declined by 6 percent. Sales were flat in Hong Kong and Macau and

increased by 2.9 percent in Taiwan. Cohen said he expects the

“headwinds” in the Chinese mar-ket will continue but nonetheless anticipates that 2015 and 2016 will be much better years for Trinity as the company adapts. He noted that the company has been working on product development and adjust-ing merchandising to market pref-erences in Northern, Southern and Central China.

Trinity’s main focus for the rest of the year will be on inventory management. Cohen said he plans to “significantly reduce” inventory and generate cash in the process. The ceo said he anticipates Trinity will be in a cash-positive position by the end of the year. Part of the reason for the high inventory, he explained, was strategic as the company decided to roll out fall merchandise early. The company also marked down older merchan-dise to get it off the racks — selling at 50 to 60 percent off.

Although Trinity has shuttered 18 stores so far this year in Greater China, Cohen said he expects the number of stores to stay fairly stable. The company also expects same-store sales will improve in Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan and is “cautiously optimistic” about Trinity’s prospects in the U.S. and Europe. The company also has plans to launch operations in Singapore.

Trinity is a member of the pri-vately held Fung Group.

Parabellum bags are made from various materials, including American

Bison leather.

Parabellum is opening its first

physical retail location in West

Hollywood, Calif.

PHOT

O BY

RIC

H PE

DRON

CELL

I/AP/

CORB

ISPH

OTOS

BY

DREW

SCH

WAR

TZ

w21b002a;7.indd 2 8/20/14 7:31 PM08202014193444

Page 3: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s
Page 4: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

SAINT PAUL, showed at The Tents @ Project Designer/Aesthetic: The sports-wear collection from Brussels-based designer Jungho Geortay offers an eclectic assortment of allover prints that are irrever-

ent and fun, with patterns rang-ing from florals and geometrics to conversationals. His background includes stints at Kenzo and Jean Paul Gaultier.Price points: Shirts retail from $275 to $325 and shorts are $250 to $295. A printed anorak is $695 and

T-shirts are $175.Worth a look because: The hand-drawn prints offer unexpected twists such as a traditional button-down shirt in a banker’s stripe up-dated with subtle modern tweaks.

CLOVER CANYON, at ProjectDesigner/Aesthetic: After four years in the women’s wear busi-ness, Rozae Nichols is bringing his

striking prints and streamlined sil-houettes to the men’s wear market. The company’s signature patterns are used for bomber jackets, sweat-shirts, oversize T-shirts, swimwear and pull-on pants.Price points: The collection opens at around $125, with the bulk re-tailing in the mid-$200s.Worth a look because: The digital prints are used on a variety of fab-rications, including Neoprene, pop-lins or waffle knits, but the prices are commercial and accessible.

HAPPY SOCKS, at ProjectDesigner/Aesthetic: Viktor Tell, designer and cofounder of the

Stockholm-based brand, has teamed up with rap-per and artist Snoop Dogg on a capsule collection of three styles that will launch on Nov. 1. Entitled “The Art of Inspiration,” Snoop Dogg has created a navy and white paisley, a “rasta-fari” pattern with a lion and a pot leaf, and a painterly version based on his own art.Price points: The box of three will retail for $40; in-dividually, the socks will sell for $12.Worth a look because: The patterns are interesting and the collabora-tion is newsworthy and sure to cre-ate a buzz.

CABO D’MAR, at MRketDesigner/Aesthetic: The hand-made accessories collection from Portuguese designer Luis Filipe is inspired by the knots tied by sailors on ships. Although the line only had its start two years ago, its inspiration dates back 500 years when a Portuguese explorer fell overboard and was spared from death by attaching a rope from the boat’s stern to his wrist. The line is named after this legend: Cabo d’Mar, or “This is My Sea Rope.”Price points: The bracelets are priced from $50 to $60, and the label is moving into small leather goods and even polo shirts with

rope detailing.Worth a look because: The braided leather bracelets with metal hardware or those from actual nautical rope in vivid colors are on trend in terms of material and graphic details.

RAINFOREST, at MRketDesigner/Aesthetic: The outerwear com-pany has branched out into swimwear as an add-on business for the spring season. Three categories are offered: Psychedigital, a collection of streetwear-inspired

digital prints in fluorescent col-ors; Aquatropic, an assortment of water-based prints, including tropical flowers, fish and under-water caverns, and Flights of

Fancy, earthy prints that mingle with tropical accents. There’s also a high-performance hybrid collection with models that look like dress shorts but are actually swim trunks.Price points: The collection ranges from $55 to $79.Worth a look because: The prints are innovative, as is the move to create additional business oppor-tunities outside of the traditional outerwear season.

CHIEF TRUNK, at CapsuleDesigner/Aesthetic: Designer and founder Konrad Duchek re-vived the venerable Oshkosh Trunk Co., a luxury travel goods brand founded in 1898. The new collec-tion is manufactured in Brooklyn, N.Y., and offers 24-ounce coated y a r n - d y e d cotton can-vas with the brand’s sig-nature yellow and red stripe on everything from duffels, suitcases, mes-sengers and soft brief-cases to totes and beach bags. Updates include vegeta-ble-tanned leather accents

and brass hardware.Price points: The pieces open at around $200 and go up to $1,000.Worth a look because: The nearly indestructible collection not only looks good but has an authentic heritage that will appeal to today’s shopper. And it’s Made in the USA.

J. LINDEBERG, at PGA ExpoDesigner/Aesthetic: Fredrik Dahl has created a collection for the urban outdoorsman that features a modern aesthetic with an eye toward technology. The line would work as well on the city streets as on the links. Among the signature styles is a Euro-inspired polo with raglan colorblocking on the side and branding under the collar. Another standout item is a seam-sealed performance hooded golf jacket with a drop waist and cy-cling accents. Striped belts with crocodile details are also popular with consumers.

Price points: Polos start at $70, while a modern baracuta jacket re-tails for $495. Belts are $95. Worth a look because: The European styling offers a unique perspective in the golfwear space.

QUIKSILVER ORIGINALS, at LibertyDesigner/Aesthetic: Three heri-tage styles based on the surf com-pany’s original boardshort designs have been tweaked and reissued to appeal to today’s modern man. Lighter twills and stone washing

are among the up-dates on the limited-

edition pieces and several lengths are offered as well. The first is the Scallop, the

iconic

Although Naymon was also look-ing for some key fashion pieces, he said sustainable business “takes more than a few items. You’ve got to have some big-ticket things mixed in, too.” He said that relying on specialty stores’ “best practices,” such as calling customers to let them know new merchandise has arrived, is essential, as is buying merchandise to appeal to a younger man. The items he was shopping for at the shows included accesso-ries such as bracelets, socks, belts, jewelry, hats and sunglasses, which he viewed as opportunities “to en-hance the ticket.”

Doug Ewert, chief executive of-ficer of The Men’s Wearhouse Inc., was scouring the show for brands willing to partner with the retail chain exclusively. He pointed to the success of the company’s proprietary Joseph Abboud prod-uct, which already accounts for 13 percent of the chain’s overall business even though it has yet to roll out to all stores. “It’s been a huge home run for us,” he said. “So we’re looking for other part-nerships like that. The exclusive brand and product strategy are re-ally working well for us.”

At the shows, he said the mer-chandising team was also look-ing for “sweater opportunities for Men’s Wearhouse” as well as shoe and accessories brands for the Jos. A. Bank division.

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2014MW4

{Continued from page MW1}

VEGAS HIGHLIGHTS Top brands from the trade shows in Las Vegas included everything from accessories and swimwear to technical outerwear. — JEAN E. PALMIERI, DAVID YI, ALEX BADIA AND LUIS CAMPUZANO

J. Lindeberg

Saint Paul

Clover Canyon

Cabo d’Mar

Rainforest

Quiksilver Originals

Chief Trunk

Happy Socks

Page 5: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

model introduced in 1969, that features a scalloped hem for greater movement when surfing. The Yoke, from 1971, offers a wide waistband that rides low on the hips, while The Arch, from 1981, includes checks and prints on a side panel.Price points: The suits retail for $90.Worth a look because: The heritage styling is on trend and the updates in material coupled with the vari-ety of lengths make the collection appropriate for today.

DEFEND PARIS, at LibertyDesigner/Aesthetic: Jeremy Douay of the Paris-based gritty streetwear brand has moved beyond its signa-ture T-shirts emblazoned with an assault rifle to lifestyle pieces, in-cluding sweatpants, varsity jackets, blazers and lambskin pants. The brand has become renowned for its collaborations with celebrities in-cluding Madonna, Zachary Quinto and Rihanna, who have teamed with the label for various causes they want to defend such as human

rights, health care and gay rights.Price points: The T-shirts retail for $62, while the lambskin pants are $1,200.Worth a look because: The brand has acquired enormous buzz on so-cial media as a result of its celeb-rity tie-ins.

ECOALF, at LibertyDesigner/Aesthetic: When Javier Goyeneche’s first child was born, he came up with the idea of pro-ducing a sustainable fashion brand that would use recycled products such as fishnets, tires, postindustrial cotton and plastic bottles to create quality apparel and accessories. The brand got its start with backpacks and has since moved into jackets, shoes, shirts, footwear and other products with

contemporary styling. Price points: Jackets retail for $190 and up, while bags start at $155.Worth a look because: Its social message is important and its col-lection is stylish and relevant.

STUDIO ONE EIGHTY NINE, at LibertyDesigner/Aesthetic: Actress Rosario Dawson teamed with her friend Abrima Erwiah to create a collection of men’s and women’s wear to promote African culture. The duo travel often to Ghana and other African countries to line up resident artisans, designers and artists to create the collec-tion of jumpsuits, shirts, sweat-pants, bags and backpacks embla-zoned with African prints that are hand-batiked and stamped. The brand made its wholesale debut for spring after selling online and through pop-ups with Urban Outfitters.Price points: Shirts sell for $190 and up, while jumpsuits are $225 and bags are around $150.Worth a look because: The celeb-rity tie-in is sure to create atten-tion and the message is socially relevant.

PRPS, at LibertyDesigner/Aesthetic: Donwan Harrell, the founder and creative director of Prps, has created a mixed-media model for spring that uses natural indigo piercing on tra-ditional Japanese selvage denim. The patchwork style of the design employs a blend of textures and colors to create an innovative item that will wash in a unique man-ner. It also uses a high number of stitches per inch for the repair of the jeans.Price point: The jean retails for $250.Worth a look because: The deni-

zen of denim has created a unique item that could double as a work of art.

SURFSIDE SUPPLY CO., at ProjectDesigner/Aesthetic: After close to seven years at Theory as its presi-dent of men’s, and five years at Nike as its vice president of global apparel and accessories, Chris Manley struck out on his own to create Surfside Supply Co. The brand is “urban surfwear” that works on the beach as well as the city streets and includes Japanese indigo-washed joggers, pullover sweaters and shirts.Price points: Polo shirts retail from $78, swim trunks start at $88. The indigo-dyed pullover shawl-

collar sweater starts at $125 and joggers at $98.Worth a look because: The indigo washes mimic Japanese denim in a clever manner and the swim trunks in photographic prints are sleek and sophisticated yet light-hearted and fun.

HUDSON JEANS, at ProjectDesigner/Aesthetic: For years, cre-ative director Ben Taverniti has been serving up slim-fitting jeans that mold to a body in the form of the Byron jean. For spring, the brand will introduce the Skinny Collection, full of moto-style distressed denim with many zip-pers. It will also include a few joggers, hoodies, bomber jackets and more.

Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2014 MW5

Defend Paris

Surfside Supply Co.

Prps

Ecoalf

Studio One Eighty Nine

{Continued on page MW6}PHOT

OS B

Y BR

YAN

HARA

WAY

w21b004(5-6)a;10.indd 5 8/20/14 8:32 PM08202014203353

Page 6: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2014MW6

Price points: The biker jean retails from $250 to $280. Jackets range from $220 to $240, with chinos at $174 and shorts at $145.Worth a look because:The Skinny Collection is sexy with its new sil-houettes and brings a little edge with its mo-to-inspired distress-ing and overall cut.

REMI RELIEF, at CapsuleDesigner/Aesthetic:The Japanese brand’s creative di-rector, Yutaka Goto, has built a line based on American vintage-inspired apparel. The Tokyo-based collection offers easy breezy kits and Western-

inspired denim, all lightly hand-distressed.Price points: T-shirts start at $125, denim shirts from $385, jac-quard shirts at $370 to $380, and sweaters at $380.Worth a look because:Hand it to the Japanese to perfect the vintage American look. The entire collection is like a peek inside a Seventies time cap-sule, with each fitted T, indigo-dyed Western shirt and pair of shorts resembling wearable casual retro dresswear.

LAURENCEAIRLINE, at CapsuleDesigner/Aesthetic: If Parisian chic ever met the whimsical heri-

tage of the Ivory Coast, this line would be it. The collection started in 2010 and includes African tribal prints mixed with polka dots in shirts, shorts, trousers and other pieces. The line was started by Laurence Chauvin-Buthaud, who practices sustainable manufac-turing at a workshop in the Ivory Coast city of Abidjan.Price points: Shirts for $93 and trousers for $332 to $437 at current exchange.Worth a look because: Aside from Chauvin-Buthaud employing a local workshop and creating jobs for several Ivory Coast citizens, the do-good line makes no com-promises in construction or style.

STAPLE, at AgendaDesigner/Aesthetic: The brand from New York City–based Jeff Ng, better known as jeffstaple, combines casual streetwear with a high-street sophis-tication. The line mixes subtle prints and mixed-media fabrics, namely tech, for a buttoned-up but dressed-down approach to streetwear. The line, founded in 1997, has collaborat-ed with brands including Nike, New Balance and Timberland, among others.Price points: Hoodies range from $76 to $78, T-shirts from $36, shirts from $68 and outerwear averages $140 to $150.Worth a look because: The spring collection is an extension of the fall’s Lava Group line, which in-fused a lava fabric pattern with graphics inspired from the late Eighties and early Nineties. Technical fabrics blended with woven makes this streetwear label more fashion-forward than the printed cut and sew lines now prevalent in the market.

EZEKIEL, at AgendaDesigner/Aesthetic: The traditional skate brand from Los Angeles has managed to bridge the gap between action sports and contemporary ap-parel. The new collection includes activewear that doubles as ready-to-wear, such as a striped woven but-ton-up in soft, textured cotton. The

line also offers a variety of denim joggers in a carrot silhouette with tapered cuffs.Price points: Shorts and board-shorts are $54, joggers range from $50 to $70, and tanks, shirts and hoodies start at $50.Worth a look because: Ezekiel now appeals to everyone from the teen to the professional in their late 30s with the elevated skate looks introduced in the past few sea-sons. Although still at heart a skate brand, it aims to attract a more fashion-forward customer base.

ELWOOD, at AgendaDesigner/Aesthetic: The brand has embraced its L.A.–based roots to create a streetwear label with ath-

letic-inspired fabrics. The brand makes bold statements with floral and paisley prints on jogger pants, shirts and button-ups, and uses scalloped hemlines in its shirts.Price points: Baseball jerseys range from $45 to $50, joggers start at $50, cotton T-shirts start at $30.Worth a look because: The brand is attempting to eliminate the sea-sonal fashion business model by of-fering the collection to the public as soon as it is shown. And because the manufacturing is done in-house, the brand can quickly offer items on a whim. Case in point: the spring line is now available on the Web site.

LIRA, at AgendaDesigner/Aesthetic: The Southern California-based line offers a mix of surf, skate and streetwear influ-ences with its mix of floral, Aztec, and charcoal prints, among others. Lira’s strength lies in the brand’s boardshorts, which incorporate two different prints seamlessly on one garment.Price points: T-shirts start at $30, woven shirts at $48, hoodies at $40 and boardshorts at $38.Worth a look because: The floral prints are used on a variety of ap-parel items, with a photo print blocked on bottoms such as board-shorts. The items use quick drying polyester tech fabrics for a more athletic appeal at commercially accessible prices.

Hudson Jeans

Elwood

Remi Relief

EzekielLaurenceairline

Staple

Lira

{Continued from page MW5}

Page 7: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2014 MW7

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/menswear-news.

Here are the key trends from the Las Vegas trade shows.

Trend Right

Joggers

Technical Outerwear

Printed Bathing Suits

Round Eyewear

Indigo

Bread & Boxers

Diesel

Flying Horse London

NSF

Timezone

KirikoKiriko

Sundek Swims Mr. Swim

Duvetica

Handstich Barbour

Crap

Ahlem

Dries Van Noten x Linda Farrow

Tiger of Sweden

Muttonhead

Zanerobe

In a continued push toward transitional pieces, these lightweight performance jackets fit the bill.

These updated sweatpants are the fashion piece of the season.

The retro-inspired frames in plastic or metal are a spring essential.

Patterned swimwear in bright colors featuring geometrics and florals keep the category fresh.

From hoodies and T-shirts to shorts, this shade of blue is dominating the spring color palette.

w21b007(8)a;9.indd 7 8/20/14 8:35 PM08202014203630

Page 8: Indigo - WordPress.coming plaids with polka dots and crazy shoes,” Collins said. “They have their own way of expressing themselves.” The Doneger Group characterized it as “men’s

Men’s WeekMW8 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2014

Distressed Denim

Chukkas

Graphic Stripes

Trends

Del Toro shoes - chukka

Industry of All Nations - Indigo3x1 denim - distressed denimThe Brooklyn Circus - indigoCrap - round eyewear

Prospective Flow

Baldwin Denim

J Brand Kenneth Ning

Anderson’s

Barena Venezia

InkkasVince Footwear

Del Toro Shoes

Monitaly

Hex

In the midst of the men’s shoe revolution, the chukka is the new statement footwear.

Heavy whiskering, rips and tears on a more relaxed silhouette are breathing new life into the denim market.

This updated pattern appears in everything from belts to bucket hats in a variety of widths and colors.

w21b007(8)a;9.indd 8 8/20/14 8:35 PM08202014203700

NEW YORK LOS ANGELES SHANGHAI