WE MET RUSSELL FIGAREDO OF ABCNYC/United Limousine Guided Tours ofNYC when we last booked a limo servicefrom JFK into Manhattan. He had come

highly recommended. There he was, waiting for us as weentered the baggage area, all dressed up in a proper dark,nicely tailored sharkskin suit and black hat. Russell grabbedour bags and off we went to his very polished black LincolnTown Car and into the night. Russell regaled us with stories as we sped throughtraffic. He is first-rate company and somewhat of an insider to Gotham’ssecrets. Want to know where the mob hangs out? Or where someone famousoffed themselves? What building used to be on a certain street corner? Russellhas a finely-tuned sense of history and knows all. He will happily drive you byany and all sights, continually spinning yarns about the how and why. He hasmovie tours, architecture and art tours and just-about-anything tours. But Mr.Figaredo’s biggest strength is knowing how to get around traffic and being100% reliable. His connections are outstanding, too. Hire him for a night out tothe theatre or just to shop around the East Village. You will have a truegentleman driving you. His rates are reasonable given his exceptional qualityand his cars are spotless. Call him at (646) 996-2447 or (800) 429-5285 andcheck out www.abcnyclimo.com.

December 2007

In This Issue: Founded 1981. . .our 26th year

Call Russell Figaredo for a superior limo inNew York

Visiting the Copan ruins in Hondurasp.i.n.k. vodka with caffeine and guaranaThe Cipriani in Venice has always been one of

a kindWhere to eat well in VeniceThe JW Marriott in RioVisiting Colima in MexicoInteresting hotel newsThe Intercontinental in Buenos AiresCall-In-Europe cell phone serviceGetting lost in Prague

Wines and stronger drink for the holidaysTanzore for innovative Indian dining in Los

AngelesGilt for 24-karat dining in New YorkLuella is tucked away on San Francisco’s

Russian HillFig & Olive in New York, an unpretentious café

of statureA fragrance-free restaurant? A ban on salt and

pepper?Chaya Venice is creative and packed with high

energyBooks for winter reading

HONDURAS IS NOT EXACTLY ON TRAVELERS’ LIPS AT MOST

cocktail conversations. Usual references are tospectacular water sports, whale-shark spotting andpristine beaches found in and around the Bay Islands.

ENTREE is pleased to report on an often over-looked attractionin this delightful part of Central America—the Mayan ruins in the CopanValley. Our readers have maintained an ongoing curiosity about this Hondurassite since our adventure to the Tikal ruins in Guatemala as reported in the July-August 2005 issue. Here are the details on our recent Honduras adventure: afterarriving in San Pedro Sula (American or Taca Airlines), head for the small,picturesque town of Copan Ruinas, located less than a mile from the siteentrance. This quaint fairy tale village with its cobblestone streets, friendlyinhabitants and laid-back charm immediately puts visitors in a state of totalrelaxation. After throwing away your blood pressure medication, check into theclassic Hotel Marina Copan. Let General Manager Miguel Martinez show youthis delightful piece of history, the only full service hotel in town. If you like aview of red tile roofs with a mountain back-drop, be sure to request one of thenewly-constructed balcony rooms. For $250 nightly, you can actually secure thePresidential Suite (be assured, similar digs in Europe would be north of $2000).Next, head outside the property to the Luna Jaguar Spa for a soak in naturalhot springs and a world-class massage. The countryside ride is as relaxing andenjoyable as the destination itself. Returning to the village, stop at Xibalba’sCafe-Bar, located one block from the hotel and just steps from the main square.On any given evening, the town’s movers, shakers, tourists, dogs and occasionaldrunks could appear. After a cocktail, you will be part of the scene in thisintimate setting. Vicky, the young British bartender, also serves as informationcentral. Treat yourself to the ruins with an English-speaking guide. The ruinsare of particular interest due to elaborate artistic qualities not found elsewhere.Other experiences not to be missed are the Macaw Mountain Bird Park andNature Reserve, Museum on the Square, Enchanted Wings butterfly garden anda tour of the Finca Santa Isabel coffee farm. Though you can stroll the villagein 30 minutes, time spent here seems never enough. This peaceful, crime-freelittle slice of utopia constantly reminds us why the Mayans called this valleyhome for centuries. For everything you need to know about this adventure andmore: www.mctours-honduras.com, www.hotelmarinacopan.com.

P.I.N.K. IS THE WORLDS FIRST ULTRA-PREMIUM IMPORTED VODKA FROM

Holland flawlessly infused with caffeine and guarana. Thus creating aniche where one no longer needs to mix their vodka with an energydrink. No more unpleasant after-taste, no additional calories or carbs.

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HAVING A LUXURY HOTEL IN A CITY LIKE VENICE

is both a blessing and a curse. A blessingbecause, after all, this is Venice, stunninglyromantic and unlike any other place on the

planet. But a potential curse as well, in that the veryromance and majesty could easily induce a lesser hotel tolet the city do its work for it, thereby compromising on theessentials of service and hospitality. Not so with the Cipriani, which in ENTREE’sview, continues to merit its status as the finest hotel in the city, in fact one of thebest in the world. This nonpareil Orient-Express gem is found in a gorgeouslyelegant setting of a string of Renaissance-era buildings on 1.2 hectares (3 acres) atthe tip of Giudecca Island. We woke each morning to the sight of the sun risingover San Marco Square, eating a leisurely breakfast served by an ever-attentivestaff, who couldn’t have been friendlier or more accommodating. The grounds arespectacular, the interior design exquisite. Yes, the hotel is probably at the outerlimits of affordability for many, but ENTREE has been to other hotels whichcharge comparable amounts, and left feeling fleeced. High prices are never the issueper se, if they are accompanied by a quality of service that matches the outlay. Inthis regard, the Cipriani has few equals. The staff responded to any need we had,were prompt and efficient in terms of securing tour bookings, restaurant reserva-tions and generally made us feel like welcome visitors in a Doge’s palace, ratherthan tourists to be grudgingly accommodated. Legendary General Manager NataleRusconi has recently been given an award for Independent Hotelier of the Year,and what is abundantly clear is that Dottore Rusconi’s service ethos extends to theentire staff. Although by staying here you give up a central location and easyaccess to central Venice’s sights, shops and restaurants (it’s a 10-minute boat ride toPiazza San Marco courtesy of the hotel), that’s the whole point: the Cipriani is anoasis, particularly valuable in the summer months, or during the Bienale, whencrowds around San Marco square and the Rialto are overwhelming. It’s a treat toquickly retreat back to the welcoming arms of the Cipriani, especially to make useof its beautiful, 32-meter, heated pool (the only hotel pool of its kind in Venice). Bythe way, the heavily touristed Harry’s Bar offered us a superior meal (in spite ofENTREE purchasing two 15 euro Bellinis with our ever-depreciating dollars).Rooms at the Cipriani start at approximately $1290 this time of year. Visitwww.hotelcipriani.com.

READ IN MONET’S GARDEN: ARTISTS AND THE LURE OF GIVERNY,Scala/ACC Distribution, with 160 pages, 100 color illustrations,$35.00. The book examines the artistic legacy of the masterImpressionist painter Claude Monet and the lasting impact his

gardens at Giverny have had on artists.

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CONTRARY TO RUMOR, THERE ARE SOME EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS IN

Venice that offer good value. Anice Stellato and Corte Sconta aretwo examples that ENTREE had the good fortune of visiting. Bothare packed with locals (always a good sign). Anice Stellato is found

in the northern part of Cannaregio, away from the traditional tourist sites.Traditional Venetian fare is enriched with such offerings as carpacci di pesce(thin slices of raw tuna, swordfish, or salmon dressed with olive oil andfragrant herbs), tagliatelle with king prawns and zucchini flowers, and anexcellent baccala (cod stew). Meat dishes are also served, including a tenderbeef fillet stewed in Barolo wine with potatoes, but you’re wiser to stick withthe superior seafood fare. At Corte Sconta, show up and you will be politelyinveigled into following the house recommendations for a succession of top-quality fish dishes and plied with excellent white wines from the Veneto orFriulli, plus you won’t be shocked by the bill you receive at the end of themeal. It’s a genuine Venetian experience, more authentically local than thegondolas, which exist today solely to shift unwitting tourists around thecanals.

ASEARCH FOR A FIRST-RATE HOTEL IN SUN-DRENCHED COPACABANA,Rio de Janeiro brought us to the gleaming JW Marriott Rio deJaneiro. One of the newest 5-star hotels in Rio, it looks out on theAtlantic Ocean and the famed Avenida Atlantica and Copacabana

Beach where masses of Cariocas gather to drink, stroll, exercise and hustle.The JW Marriott is perfectly located in the center of Copacabana and is theonly hotel in the area boasting a pool, fitness center and day spa on itsrooftop, known as the Mirante Copacabana . Located 16 stories in the air,guests at the Mirante Copacabana can relax with facial treatments and massage,or workout with modern equipment while surrounded by sublime views ofRio’s coastline, Corcovado, and Sugar Loaf. The 245-room property also hasthree restaurants: we loved the Taiyou Sushi Bar where impeccably fresh fishis beautifully prepared with a Brazilian flourish. Taiyou has a lovely traditionof offering a different “fresh juice of the day” and on our visit it wasdeliciously tangy strawberry lemonade. The beachfront location makes it easyto cross Avenida Atlantica to catch some rays and sip coco gelados whilewatching the parade of locals and tourists sashay past. The JW Marriott alsooffers thoughtful touches like daily newspaper delivery, Internet access, andeven an on-site translator. Rooms are spacious, with a clean, bright design,many with gorgeous ocean views. Rates start at $359 per night, doubleoccupancy. For more reservations and information: (888) 236-2427 orwww.marriott.com.

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RECENTLY ENTREE WAS THE GUEST OF THE STATE OF COLIMA IN

western Mexico. This beautiful, tropical mountainous region has a lotto enjoy. Agriculturally lush, Colima is Mexico’s leading fruit-producing state and boasts that it is the lime capital of the world. The

city of Colima, also the state capitol, along with other villages such as Comalaand Cihuatlan are must-see towns offering glimpses back into the Spanishcolonial period. Eco tours are also quite popular and there is much new devel-opment here. Manzanillo is Mexico’s largest and most important port, and a newharbor will bring cruise ships right up close to the city center. We can recommendthree hotels. In Manzanillo, the Barcelo Karmina Hotel is an all-inclusive venueoffering multiple swimming pools and restaurants, making it a great value forfamilies. We can only suggest the “Premium” package category for this hotel. Indowntown Colima, the finest hotel is the Ceballos. In Isla Navidad (ChristmasIsland), a short drive from Manzanillo, is the upscale, luxurious Grand Bay HotelIsla Navidad. The natural harbor here was founded in 1535 by Spanish captainJuan Fernandez de Hijar. Five years later, Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza named itPuerto de la Navidad. This island sanctuary offers a serene ambiance, fine dining,water-sports, fishing excursions and world-class golf. This is a self-containedproperty where everything is on the premises with not much in the way ofshopping nearby. The property stands as the anchor of much more developmentthat’s here now and on-the-way. Homes, condos with marina, ocean and golfcourse views are being built to buyers’ specifications within the guidelines of theresort. The best time to go is late November through April. Visitwww.visita.colima.com.mx.

HOTEL NEWS: THE MILESTONE IN LONDON HAS BEEN SHOWERED WITH

accolades of late, including both Travel & Leisure and Conde Nastrating it the best hotel-London and UK hotel (T&L) and Britishhotel (CN Traveler). New chef David Smith continues to garner

raves as well; his pot-roasted Dover sole is quite unique. Red Carnation Hotelsalso just won best small hotel group of the year for 2007-2008 from the AA inGreat Britain. Hotel Bel-Air is pleased to announce the appointment ofEmmanuel Faure as The Restaurant’s new sommelier. His varied experience spanstwo continents and a range of culinary niches. In line with The Restaurant’scommitment to providing guests with an unparalleled dining experience—including a wine cellar stocked with more than 40,000 bottles, 1,600 labels and arange of varietals from France, Italy, Spain, New Zealand, Australia and SouthAmerica—Faure’s knowledge and experience will contribute significantly to thehotel’s already-impressive offerings. Following the stunning renovation of thehotel’s penthouse last year, The Lowell New York again tapped acclaimed interiordesigner Michael Smith to refashion the hotel’s extraordinary Garden Suite. This

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one-bedroom suite offers a city rarity with its two terraces—one, a sitting areawith a fountain—the other, a cozy dining area. While the suite reflects Smith’stalent of seamlessly blending new with antique and contemporary with tradi-tional, it has a soft, romantic feel and European charm, such as the four-posterbed—an inspiration from the garden terrace and its greenery—and a handcrafted,antique-inspired armoire in the living room. David Gibbons, General Manager ofTaj Boston, has announced the appointment of Franck Steigerwald as the hotel’snew executive chef. Originally from France, Steigerwald was most recently theexecutive chef at The Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Naples, which includes the AAA5 Diamond restaurant Artisans. Chef Steigerwald’s cooking technique andyouthful exuberance reflect influences from his native France. In other Londonnews, Claridge’s recently unveiled 11 new suites designed by Viscount DavidLinley. They are extraordinary. Look for Paris’s Le Meurice to redo itself withthe magic of Philippe Starck. This legendary hotel already has the best children’sprogram (treasure hunts) in Paris, in addition to an extraordinary spa and a verysympathique pet-friendly program.

INTERCONTINENTAL BUENOS AIRES STANDS TALL AT AN IRRESISTIBLE

location sandwiched between two of the fashionable city’s busiest neigh-borhoods. We’d take ritual morning ambles for warm empanadas andstore-hopping in San Telmo, an antique-lover’s dream of a district where

we spied rustic-style murals saluting the legends of tango, among historicalbuildings and corner parillas. We’d return to the lobby, tastefully balanced withgleaming wood surfaces and leather furniture, and depending on how manysteaks we’d been faced with, might find ourselves at the indoor pool or fitnesscenter, or maybe having a light bite on the terrace or more formal feasts atupscale Mediterraneo. The Intercontinental leans on the business side of luxury,with all the amenities from an ace concierge, cell phone rental, and Internetcenter that are to be expected. Rooms are no-nonsense and well-tailored inmellow chocolate and vanilla tones, classically cultivated but contemporary-fitted with flat-screens and Art Deco-inspired furniture. Butler service isavailable, along with a crucial complimentary snack and cocktail lounge forExecutive Club Members. After recharging our batteries, just a few steps awayfrom the hotel are some of B.A.’s most legendary and fascinating sights, thePlaza Mayor, Casa Rosada, The Obelisk, and the bustling financial district, plusthe neighborhoods of Puerto Madero and La Recoleta are within a short stroll,and port-side Boca is a longer, but walkable distance away. There are numerousareas for nightlife in the surrounding sreets as well, whether it’s a glass ofMalbec or real tango you seek. If location is everything, Intercontinental

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Buenos Aires appears to have everything and more. Rates start at $179 a night.Intercontinental Buenos Aires, Moreno 809 (1070) Capital Federal BuenosAires, 54-11-43407100. Visit www.ichotels.com.

WE RECENTLY TESTED CALL-IN-EUROPE, A CELL PHONE SERVICE,during our holiday in France. Billed as “the first European cellphone service designed for American travelers,” the service isideal for anyone needing a phone for the short term, or for

frequent travelers. Call-in-Europe offers attractive low call-per-minute pricingwith no hidden fees. A Nokia phone, adapters and SIM card (with a Frenchtelephone number) are delivered to your home or office via FedEx in a handycarrying case. After your return, simply ship the phone back with a prepaidlabel. For more information call 877-730-5305, or visit www.call-in-europe.com.

GETTING LOST IN THE SURREAL, SERPENTINE LANES OF PRAGUE MEANS

being enchanted by a beautiful fairy tale sprung to life, rich withcastles, secret gardens, quaint pubs, old fashioned marionette andcrystal shops, plus momentous architecture battling hypnotic views

of the Vlatva’s wide waters for your eyes’ affections. Entering many of thecity’s upscale choices for habitation from a stunning Four Seasons to theunbeatable views of the wonderful Hotel Praha, some of the magic fades whenleaving the turret-strewn sky for lobby-adjacent gift shops. You need not reachearth so soon though if you stay at Pachtuv Palace, a dreamy escape from thetouristy city, located in Old Town Prague about 100 steps from Charles Bridge.Pachtuv Palace resembles the Baroque city-mansion of your favorite member ofCzech nobility, with a welcoming, regal lobby of antique furniture, besidewhich a complimentary made-to-order breakfast is served to all guests. Theapartments make you feel like Prince Charming as you tip-toe on polishedwooden floors towards the canopied queen bed. Rooms are snug but endlesslycharming, with an equal abundance of convenience—DVD players, towelwarmers—and romantic sensibility, as found in the rabbit-fur blanket andmajestic chestnut dresser. The designer is the same who did the Dorchester inLondon. Room rates start at $287. While we can recommend the gentlepampering at the Pachtuv Palace, ENTREE has a harder time recommendingtraditional Czech chow, which we gave more than a fair chance. One excellentexception is the hip, fresh Patriot-X, a gourmet centre/cafe/hotspot that rips thecanned gravy-flavored stain of Communist occupation off of Czech cuisine andserves market-fresh ingredients in entrees and delicacies enjoyed by Charles IV.Our meals and wines there were beyond exquisite. We highly recommend

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ENTREE - December 2007 8

cooking classes at Patriot-X for a look into a very professional local kitchen.Sipping absinthe and Becherovka, then stumbling your way home at the end ofthe night among ancient urban majesty is part of Prague’s fun, how much betterto dine and sleep like a monarch yourself, marching past the verdant courtyardand into your warm chambers with a belly full of wild salmon dumplings,roasted lamb in nettle pancake, chocolate pralines and gallons of pilsner.Nastravi! Pachtuv Palace, Karolíny Sv_tlé 34, Staré M_sto, Prague 1, (420) 234-705-111, www. www.pachtuvpalace.com; Patriot-X, V Celnici 3, Nove Mesto,Prague 1, (420) 224 -235-158, www.patriot-x.cz.

WINES AND MORE POWERFUL OCTANE FOR THE HOLIDAYS: FINE

wines from Argentina’s Andeluna Cellars that sing of the Andesand rich Old World craftsmanship such as their 2004 ReserveCabernet Sauvignon, $23, 2004 Reserve Merlot, $23, 2004 Reserve

Malbec, $23, 2005 Winemaker’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, $13, 2005Winemaker’s Selection Malbec, $13, 2005 Winemaker’s Selection Merlot, $13,and their 2006 Torrontes, a medium-bodied, well-structured refreshingly whitewith peach, apricot and grapefruit aromas and tropical fruit flavors, $13,www.andeluna.com; 2004 The Mariner from Dry Creek Vineyard, a brand newwine blending five noble Bordeaux varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, www.drycreekvineyard.com; SaintRegis Viognier-Sauvignon from Domaine Chateau de la Selve, a eminentlydrinkable vin de pays made with finesse and reflecting great terroir from thecoteaux de L’Ardeche, www.chateau-de-la-selve.fr; Originally developed in1745, Drambuie is a secret blend of aged Scotch whiskey and spiced honeycreated as the personal elixir to Bonnie Prince Charlie. The recipe is a closely-guarded secret that has been handed down from generation to generation bymembers of the MacKinnon family who sheltered the prince after his legendarydefeat at the battle of Culloden; 2006 Coteaux Du Languedoc from Picpoul DePinet; 2006 Rosato Pietra Santa, a California Sangiovese Rose with brightacidity and strawberry-peach flavors, $14 and only 277 cases produced,www.pietrasantawindery.com; Prager 2004 Royal Escort Napa Valley Port,Paladini Vineyard, from 100% Petite Syrah grapes grown in St. Helena andaged for two and a half years in barrels—deep garnet colored with berry-cedararomas and flavors of blackberry and cherries. And for the less faint of heart:Leblon Cachaça, award-winning authentic Brazilian cachaça for delicious caipir-inhas and other cocktails, www.liveloveleblon.com. The most creatively namedand labeled wines being made today come from South Australia’s Mollydooker.Imagine Gigglepot Cabernet, Carnival of Love Shiraz, and Enchanted Path

Shiraz Cabernet. Not only are these wines made with style, their labels areexuberant works of art. The Mollydooker Shake is the best way to prepare theseyoung wines. Mollydooker bottles with extra nitrogen gas because it’s an inertand natural preservative that prevents premature oxidation, enables their winesto maintain that bright fruit flavor longer and allows them to use less sulfites.Since the nitrogen gas is a preservative, it significantly flattens the flavor profileof the wine unless it is released. The easiest way to do this is to pour a littlewine out of the bottle (1-2 ounces), put the cap back on and SHAKE. A ton ofbubbles will rise to the top, and gas may escape when you unscrew the cap. Forbest results two shakes tends to work best. When the bubbles and foamdissipate from the top of the wine in the bottle, it’s ready to drink. Since thenitrogen slowly integrates into the wine over time, there’s no need to shakeMollydooker wines that are two years old or older. All Mollydooker wines areavailable at www.mollydookerwines.com.

THE MOGULS (NOT MUGHALS) WHO RAN GAYLORD’S FOR 30 YEARS ON

La Cienega Blvd. had little need to shutter the doors that bear themost famous name in Los Angeles Indian cuisine and open a newrestaurant. But Tanzore, the team’s revised offering, inhabits an

entirely different universe. While Gaylord’s thrived as a dependable, traditionalPunjabi grandfather, Tanzore takes a risk as one of the city’s only first-gener-ation Desi daughters that is both chic and a little wild, while still holdingtradition important. Entering Tanzore, an entire wall is lit up with dueling clipsfrom Bollywood flicks and haute-couture runway shows with Sub-Continentalflair. The bar and lounge show Tanzore’s sexy, flirty side, dressed in gorgeousmarble and spiced with supple couches in a vivid turquoise seemingly stolenstraight from some Bangalore beauty’s sari. After a creative cocktail, ENTREEstrolled into the modern, elegant dining room to open a leather-bound menudetailing two short, strong lists of Southern small plates and classic dishes withcontemporary touches. Sliced, seared rare yellow fin comes with an avocadoraita and toasted coriander; a luscious lamb kebab is slathered in homemadetamarind chutney; a scallop salad is drunk on vodka; and crab cakes get theGoan tikki treatment. Traditional tastes are refined and far-reaching in biryaniswith cumin raita, Kashmiri rogan josh, and wild mushroom saag, whileSouthern influences are felt in the many seafood dishes like lobster moilee,tandoori sea bass and delectable tiger prawns. The triple bread basket is to diefor, while desserts give a badly needed twist to Indian sweets, courtesy of thein-house pastry chef. Plate presentation is as seductive as the cool lounge, andover 2,000 wines fill the Reidel glasses. A love-marriage of west coast flash andeastern custom, Tanzore mesmerizes, surprises and delights, both with their

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sublime menu and a stylish nod to high fashion that shows a legend can stillmaster new tricks. Tanzore, 50 N. LaCienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, (310)652-3838; www.tanzore.com.

WE LIKE TO THINK WE KNEW GILT BACK BEFORE IT WAS FAMOUS.Well, when it was less famous, as in still the glittering Upper EastSide jewel of a restaurant in the New York’s Palace Hotel (LeonaHelmsley’s stomping grounds prior to being sold in 1993 to a

more regal owner), but before it served as the ultra-hip setting for the hit TVshow “Gossip Girl.” We recently returned to see if the production had affectedthe high-quality of Gilt’s surroundings and food, and were pleasantly surprisedto find improvements flourishing. Gilt’s lounge feels like a capital buildingcolliding with a discotheque, its elegant ceiling a dazzling mosaic of gold tilesthat reflect the glass-shards of a spinning disco ball, all hovering above a circleof a centerpiece bar, replete with high-end hipsters and suited eye-candy freshfrom overtime on Fifth Avenue. The dining room bears a masculine flavor, withdrop-dead lighting among all the patrician touches. This is as elegant a room asManhattan has; with the mellowed old Villard Mansion paneled walls glowinglike a scene from an Old Master painting. Views of the street further grace theinterior elegance. Gilt’s menu has simmered down some of the outlandishcreativity and pretension of old, while maintaining the originality, flair andflavor of the cuisine. Seasoned executive chef Christopher Lee took over inAugust with a farm-fresh, seasonal spirit that overflows with flavors from foiegras mille feuille with concord grapes and cheese pumpkin, butternut squashsoup with Canadian lobster and Jersey cranberries, to a sea bass with saffronmussel broth or a Colorado lamb trio with Marcona almonds and a Romescosauce. The flavors are solid and sumptuous, with just enough innovation tospark our intrigue and taste buds in new directions. Our hats go off to ChefLee, and we save plenty of kudos for pastry chef David Carmichael, whodelighted us with Tahitian panna cotta; a warm, sticky toffee pudding with blackwalnut ice cream and pomegranate jus; plus an autumn plum Baked Alaska withsweet angel hair crunch, which are among several other delights arriving forsweets. Best of all are Gilt’s signature almonds, covered in chocolate and a thicklayer of gold dust, and extensive service from Christopher Day, the delightfuland informative tea sommelier. Like Gilt’s impeccable service and exquisitelyromantic setting, these treats spellbind, and like the cuisine, leave a heavenly,novel feeling on the palate. For a special evening and a opportunity to be servedlike an Astor or Frick, with a wine list to match any in the country, we highlyrecommend Gilt, 455 Madison Ave., New York, NY, (212) 891-8100,www.giltnewyork.com.

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LUELLA IS TUCKED AWAY IN SAN FRANCISCO’S RUSSIAN HILL AND IS THE

quintessential warm neighborhood restaurant, only one with dynamitefood and service. Chef Ben DeVries cooks contemporary Mediterraneancuisine like no one else, orchestrating delicious combinations like tuna

tartare with lime vinaigrette and mango in taco shells; mussels steamed inPernod; and Coca-Cola braised pork shoulder. His cassoulet is worth traveling toSan Francisco for alone. Desserts like an ice cream sundae with macadamia nutsare just right. So are the prices. The hostess is charming, the servers know theirdishes, wines are excellent and not exorbidant—and the car parker will drop youoff at the restaurant from the lot a few blocks away. Luella is perfect. Nowonder star chef Gary Danko eats here on his nights off. An ENTREE E Awardof Excellence winner. Luella, 1896 Hyde Street, (415) 674-4343.

ON NEW YORK’S UPPER EAST SIDE YOU MIGHT EASILY WALK RIGHT ON

by Fig & Olive, but that would be a big mistake. An unpretentious,sunken café from the sidewalk, inside one is surprised to find aconvivial (albeit often filled with loudly chattering mommies and

their baby carriages) atmosphere bursting with Provencal sunshine. Sink backinto a wicker chair and relax. At the heart of this busy white-stucco-walledrestaurant is a serious open kitchen in which Chef Pascal Lorange lovinglyprepares each dish with a special olive oil. What more could you want thanauthentic simple and refined Mediterranean cooking made with fresh andflavorful ingredients? An artfully presented grilled fish stuffed with rosemarywas perfection, fig-and-olive salad as light as a Riviera breeze, salmon tartinescented with herbs and scores of wonderful wines by the glass from the Southof France, Spain and Italy. Fig & Olive is what we all seek-a modestly pricedneighborhood restaurant of supreme quality with excellent service andmemorable cuisine, the kind you could eat each and every day. There is casualbar dining and an excellent weekend brunch served as well. Fig & Olive, 808Lexington Avenue (62nd Street), (212) 207-4555, www.figandolive.com. Fig &Olive is a winner of ENTREE’s E Award of Excellence.

WHAT IS THE WORLD COMING TO DEPARTMENT: FRIENDS OF OURS

were denied a table at Trattoria Nostrani in Santa Fe, because“Madame” was wearing too much perfume. “We are a fragrance-free establishment,” scolded the maitre d’. He then threatened to

call the police when our pals refused to leave. It was a Saturday night and theyhad no place to go. We would be the first to complain if a fellow diner hadoverdone the Shalimar so we understand this a bit. But maybe it could have

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been handled better? Are guests advised of this policy when they make a reser-vation? Can smelly guests be seated outdoors? And at a new restaurant inVentura (very “hip” for Ventura), when the waiter was asked for salt and pepperhe replied “We don’t believe in adding salt.” To which we replied, “And wedon’t believe in tips.” Tell us, dear readers, have any of you been dissed at arestaurant for asking for salt or wearing too much perfume?

THREE AUDIO BOOKS ON CD FROM RANDOM HOUSE AUDIO WE’D LIKE

to see under our tree: Tom Brokaw’s BOOM! VOICES OF THESIXTIES, a remarkable time in America’s history; GIVING by BillClinton, an inspiring look at how each of us can change the world;

PLAYING FOR PIZZA by John Grisham, for football fans and travelers alike.

ALL OF US AT ENTREE SEND HEARTFELT WISHES FOR A VERY MERRY

Christmas and Happy New Year. We hope Santa brings you peace,love and, let’s face it, lots of expensive presents.

ENTREE - December 2007 12

ENTREE is published monthly by ENTREE Travel, P.O. Box 5148, Santa Barbara, California 93150, (805) 969-5848, Fax (805)969-5849, William Tomicki, Editor and Publisher. Managing Editor: Hadley Tomicki. Associate Publisher: Edward L. Stephenson.Senior Executive Editor: Syd Summerhill. Editor-At-Large: Scott Smigel. Executive Editors: Barbara Daugherty, Tom Landau,Kameron Seagren, Theron Tomicki. Senior Editors: Tom Buhl, Ron Green, Patrick Aumont, Barney Brantingham, Marshall Auerback.Contributing Editors: Alan Porter, Steve Connatser. In Memoriam: Senior Contributing Editor Mark Birley, 1998-2007. ENTREEcannot be reproduced without written permission. Subscriptions are $75 per year. Back issues are available at $10 per copy. Thenumber of subscribers is strictly limited to protect the rather privileged nature of ENTREE’s information. See ENTREE online atwww.entreenews.com.

ENTREE is pleased to recommend Jo Ann Mermis and Wes St. Clair, brokerassociates at Prudential California Realty in Santa Barbara. After 25 yearsof making our home and conducting our business in Santa Barbara, wehave selected them, after careful research, for their outstandingreputation for personal service and profound knowledge of the area. Ifyou are contemplating Montecito or Santa Barbara for a home, business orrental, we strongly suggest you contact Jo Ann or Wes at (805) 879-5033,www.mermis-stclair.com.

ENTREE is proud to be associated with Dale Sorensen Real Estate, Inc. recog-nized as one of the leading independent real estate firms in Vero Beach.Established in 1978 and specializing in upscale properties and luxury water-front homes, the company and its principals and associates are veryknowledgeable in all aspects of real estate and community life. DaleSorensen Real Estate is a full service firm with a vibrant commercial division.Dale Sorensen Real Estate prides itself on its knowledge and quality ofservice. Vero Beach is a small oceanside community with the ambiance ofold Florida and all the advantages of a modern community. Life in VeroBeach is enhanced by good schools, excellent medical facilities, fine shops, abroad range of cultural interests, luscious restaurants, challenging golfcourses and miles of beautiful beaches. For more information, contactMatilde Sorensen, Dale Sorensen Real Estate, Inc., 3206 Cardinal Drive, VeroBeach, FL 32963, www.sorensenrealestate.com, (800) 446-1338.