ibuki magazine vol.05 may & june 2010

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Discovering

May & June 2010 Vol. 05 Seattle / Bellevue / Portland

Saké Saké 101Food-pairing suggestionsRecipes for your saké partySake-pairing event

Japanese Inspired Food and Lifestyle Magazine

雅-MIYAVIExclusive artist interview!

Japan on the Big ScreenJapanese movie reviews

Travel: Hokkaido

VenueIssian Japanese Stonegrill1618 N 45th StSeattle, WA 98103

Your Quest for Saké begins here

IBUKI magazine presents

Saké & FoodPairing EventSaturday July 10th, 2-4pm

$32 per personlimited seating , by reservation only

To register, visit www.ibukimagazine.com/event

or call 425-440-9939

JAPANESE STONEGRILL

ISSIAN

Event ContentLectures• Saké 101: how to chose and enjoy saké• Saké with non-Japanese cuisineFood pairing • Sashimi• Vegetarian dish• Yakitori (skewed teriyaki chicken)• Setsuko’s desserts (rare cheese cake and daifuku)

Guest SpeakerBrian Clark, saké specialist of Uwajimaya Inc.Brian Clark lived in Kobe, Japan, where he discovered the essence of saké. At Bellevue Uwajimaya, he educates customers and helps them select the right saké for any meal or occasion.

Special guestSetsuko Agata, owner of Setsuko pastry

All attendees will receive Uwajimaya 10% discount

coupon and a saké-carrying bag

www.ibukimagazine.com 3

Published byAxia Media Group, Inc.Bellevue, WA 98005

Comments and general [email protected] [email protected]

CONTENTS

IBUKI Magazine Vol.05 May & June 2010

28

24

FEATURE

4 Discovering SakéThe Next Big Thing from Japan just might be saké. As more restaurants serve it and pair different brands with their cuisine, foodies are discovering the complexities and pleasures of saké.

24 Japan on the Big ScreenMovies reviews from Japan. Everything from ninja romances to slapstick comedies.

EAT & DRINK

12 Recipes - for your saké party Teriyaki chicken Manila clam steamed with saké Cucumber with miso dip Saké pound cake16 Restaurant Directory 19 Dine Out Where can you wet your whistle with a little saké or shochu? We’ll show you the best spots in town to enjoy a kanpai with your friends.

LIFESTYLE

15 i fart rainbow20 Store & School Directory NuCulinary22 Travel — Hokkaido Japan’s northernmost island is the perfect island for a road trip.. 28 Music: MIYAVI (exclusive interview!) Car: Itasha

Drink: Morimoto Soba AlePlace: Fuurrin-Oka

30 Local News and Events

Contributing Writers & ArtistsEnfu (Ken Taya)Steve CorlessJulian WatersJessica Sattell

Special ThanksChin Music Press

PublisherMisa MurohashiEnglish CartierEditor-in-ChiefBruce RutledgeEditor and TranslatorYuko EnomotoAssistant DesignerMaria Brown

4 息吹 ibuki • may / june 2010

E

息吹 IBuKI_FeaTuRe aRTICLe:

Sake and more息吹 IBuKI_FeaTuRe aRTICLe:

Sake and more

Discovering SakéBy Bruce Rutledge

very few decades since the early Meiji Era, Americans have embraced some aspect of Japanese culture. Around

the turn of the century, architect Frank Lloyd Wright and others fell in love with Japan’s woodblock prints. After World War II, Zen dazzled the American intelligentsia ( Japan scholar Donald Keene relates that a children’s ABC book in the 50s ended with “Z is for zen”). In the 1990s, anime and manga grabbed the fascination of American youth because of its unique look and complex storylines. Today, in the 2010s, there are signs that the next big thing from Japan is saké, a complex brew that has begun to fascinate American gourmands.The rise in popularity of saké has been steady over the past decade or so, largely thanks to pioneers such as John Gauntner, a saké evangelist who has trained a new breed of saké sommeliers and connoisseurs, and Seattle’s own Johnnie and Taiko Stroud, who opened one of the country’s only saké shops and tasting bars in Pioneer Square, Saké Nomi, several years ago.A sign in the stylish Saké Nomi gives a hint of how far saké has come in the US. It says, “Saké

is not another name for rocket fuel.” Brian Clark of Uwajimaya’s Bellevue branch used the same phrase — “rocket fuel” — to describe what he thought of saké before he moved to Kobe and started drinking some of the good stuff. Now he gives advice to foodies and oenophiles looking to get into saké. “It’s the next big thing,” he says. In fact, he says he has to remind people not to vilify warm saké. “There’s literally a saké for everyone and every budget.”Today, some of the best saké in the world is finding its way onto American menus. Gourmands know the difference between a daiginjo and a junmai (see the opposite page for an explanation). Adventurous chefs and sommeliers are beginning to pair sakés with non-Japanese fare, including cheese, chocolate and grilled salmon.“Saké is, in truth, incredibly versatile,” Gauntner writes in an email from Japan. “Once you take out the obvious mismatches like excessively spicy, rich or heavy food, there is a plethora of great pairings possible with Western food.”The dedication taken to brew good saké is the stuff of lore. Kiyoaki Kojima of Orcas Distibuting Ltd. recalls visiting a 73-year-old

brewer in Japan who was sleeping next to his brew, waking every two hours to tend to it as it fermented. When Kojima asked him if he used an alarm clock, he replied, “When you’ve been doing this as long as I have, you hear it calling you.”Gauntner points out how complex the brewing process is: “Wine-making is chemically a simple fermentation, as there is sugar in the grape juice that the yeast converts to alcohol and carbon dioxide. Saké is brewed like a beer, which means the starch must first be converted to sugar. In saké brewing, that is done using koji mold (aspergillus oryzae) and saké is the only beverage in the world where starch-to-sugar and sugar-to-alcohol take place at the same time in the same tank.This makes it massively complex and a balancing act.”Toshi Kojima, Kiyoaki’s brother, says his company sees great promise for saké in Seattle.”The sales volume is not as big as New York or California, but at the same time the Seattle market is very international and very curious ... There’s a culture of trying something new, making something better, being more open-minded and experimental.”


Sake 101

Premium Rice Milled Some added Alcohol

No added Alcohol

50% or less Daiginjyo Junmai Diginjyo

60% or less Ginjyo Junmai Ginjyo

70% or less Honjozo Junmai

Sake tempreture

The term junmai denotes that no “brewer’s alcohol” has been added during the brewing process. As much as 88% of all saké produced contains distilled brewer’s alcohol, and saké containing brewer’s alcohol is still considered “pre-mium” grade if its rice has been milled to the levels outlined above.

The Main Grades of Premium Saké

How Saké is Made

Where to Buy It

John Gauntner writes on his website, sake-world.com, that “five crucial elements are involved in brewing saké — water, rice, tech-nical skill, yeast and land/weather. More than anything else, saké is a result of a brewing process that uses rice and lots of water. In fact, water comprises as much as 80% of the final product, so fine water and fine rice are natural prerequisites if one hopes to brew great saké. But beyond that, the technical skill needed to pull this all off lies with the toji (head brewers), the type of yeast they use and the limitations entailed by local land and weather conditions.”

The Uwajimaya supermarket chain in Washington and Oregon offers ex-tensive saké selections at each of its stores. If you’re in Bellevue, ask for Brian Clark, the saké guide, who can figure out which saké will match your taste or your menu. Clark has been stocking more small bottles (300ml) in the Bellevue store because, he says, “saké-tasting parties are an up-and-

coming thing.” He’ll help you set up a tasting party to go with everything from sushi to ham sandwiches. In Seattle, just a short ride from the Uwajimaya store in the International District is the ultimate saké stop, Johnnie and Taiko Stroud’s Saké Nomi, one of the few saké shops and tasting bars in the country, let alone the Pacific Northwest. Here you can sample saké before you buy and get advice from the Strouds. Taiko comes from a saké-brewing family in Japan and Johnnie is one of the most knowledgeable saké aficionados in the country.

The various grades or classifications of saké are related to the rice-polishing ratio, or seimaibuai (pronounced “say-my-boo-eye”). Saké is graded according to how much the rice used in brewing has been milled or polished. Brewers mill saké rice to remove fats and proteins from the outer portion of the grain. These fats and proteins cause “off ” flavors and inhibit fermentation. The sei-maibuai is expressed as the percentage of the original rice grain remaining after milling has been completed. Premium saké uses rice that has been milled to 70% or less of its original size. In gen-eral, the more the rice is polished, the lighter and more refined the saké’s flavor profile is. (Quoted from “Your Guide to Premium Saké” by Johnnie Stroud from Saké Nomi in Ibuki’s first issue.)

To prevent spoilage, it is best to keep saké refrigerated in a cool ordark room. Th refrigerator is the best place to store saké at home.Once a bottle is opened, it is best consumed in a few hours to en-joy the flavor. If finishing a bottle in one sitting is too much, try toconsume it in about a week at most.

There are many terms to explain the temperature of the saké being served. In summer, chilled saké, called reishu, may be preferred. Many saké experts think hitohada (body temperature) is the best way to enjoy the fine flavor of premium saké. On a cold winter day, try drinking gently warmed saké, or nurukan. To warm saké, pour it in a flask, or tokkuri, and sit it in hot water. Whatever you do, don’t overheat!

How to Store It


Saké & SushiSaké naturally goes with sushi, but what type of saké? Just like with wine, there are an overwhelming array of choices for the newcomer to choose from. Here’s a simple guide to some com-mon brands that go well with sushi and other similar fare. Most of the saké on this page have a light, crisp taste. Brian Clark of the Bellevue Uwajimaya says he often starts newcomers with sakés of this sort. However, he adds, if you’re a scotch drinker who wants to try saké, turn to the next page.

HORIN - Phoenix and PegasusBrewery: GekkeikanType: Junmai Daiginjo

Horin is a top-grade saké made by one of Japan’s leading breweries, Gekkeikan. Horin has won the prestigious grand gold medal in the spirits and liqueurs division of the Monde Selection from 2006 to 2011 (held in 2010) in Belgium. The name “horin” refers to the phoenix (ho) and Pegasus (rin) of Asian mythology. Gekkeikan uses this name for its top-ranked saké — the name has been used since the Meiji Era (1868-1912) for the highest-grade saké sent from Kyoto (Gekkeikan’s home base) to Tokyo. Using select rice polished to 50% of its original size, this ultrapremium junmai daiginjo saké is slowly fermented at low tem-peratures to give it a refreshing fruitlike aroma and mild flavor. It makes a good starter saké for those who’ve never tried the drink. It often sur-prises tasters who expect saké to be very dry. Light and crisp and ideal for sushi or picnics.

Delivers a solid, full-bodied flavor with dis-tinct moromi (ferment-ing mash) aroma; mild dryness with a hint of spicy sweetness in the background. Pairs well with the variety of fla-vors present in sushi.

This dry saké is produced in the Tamba region, surrounded by mountains and clean moun-tain air. The brewer uses rice grown in this area. Tamba is well known for some of Japan’s best saké brewers, who take to saké brewing in the winter. The unique-looking bottles used by these brewers are designed in the Tachikui-yaki style of pottery the region is known for A light, dry and crisp saké, Karatanba is robust while still being easy to drink. A nice sake to pair with sushi for those who like drier li-bations.

Yoizuru - Dancing CraneBrewery: IshiokaType: Junmai

Karatanba - Dry WaveBrewery: OzekiType: Honjozo

Made with the delicate touch of a woman toji, or saké master, which is very rare, this toku-betsu junmai is made from rice milled down to the ginjo grade. This saké has a body meant to be paired with food. The initial sweetness from the rice mash spreads across your palate and elegantly rests there to comple-ment the perfect bite of sushi. It is very smooth and refresh-ing.

Tsukinowa - Moon RingBrewery: TsukinowaType: Junmai


SAPPORO BEER# 1 Japanese Beer in the USA

PLEASE SHARE SAPPORO RESPONSIBLY.©2010 SAPPORO USA, NEW YORK, NY.WWW.SAPPOROBEER.COM

Making Friends since 1876

Kanpai with a

Beer

The name means “dream” and “light,” which is a nice way to describe this smooth saké. Brewed by an award-winning brewery in Iwate Prefecture, which uses a local high-grade rice called hitomebore. Floral and hinting of melon and citrus, it complements many of the fla-vors in sushi. This saké has re-ceived Monde Selection’s gold medal for six straight years.

Yumeakari -Dream and LightBrewery: AsabirakiType: Junmai Ginjyo

Sushi regulars will be familiar with Japanese beer brands such as Sapporo, Asahi and Kirin. The lighter, smooth brews go well with sushi. Some who pre-fer a simple, clean flavor to their beer like Japanese beers with all sorts of cuisine because they don’t overpower the food. Japa-nese beer is brewed with the idea that the drink will be paired with food. Watch a beer commercial in Japan, and there’s always food present. Not so in American beer commercials.


Saké & TeriyakiPerhaps because of its color, saké is often paired with foods that also go with white wine. But many sakés are perfect to pair with grilled meats, teriyaki dishes and even patés. These are the sakés that appeal to fans of scoth and IPA microbrews. They tend to have more bite and are able to stand up to stron-ger tasting food. Here are a few recommendations to get you started.

A hint of sweetness followed by a rich, complex aftertaste. This saké has depth and reminds one of a freshly steamed bowl of rice. It pairs nicely with grilled meats and teriyaki dishes. Suijin has proven popular with saké connois-seurs in New York (70% of Manhattan businesspeople eat sushi at least once a week, according to one survey). The al-lure of this saké may come from the fact that the rice is polished as much as 70%, producing a drink with a richer rice fla-vor that pairs well with food. Try it with grilled local salmon, rockfish or cod.

Suijin - God of WaterBrewery: AsabirakiType: Junmai

Hyorei - Ice and ColdBrewery: OzekiType: Junmai

This rich and smooth saké from Hyogo Prefecture has a spicy aroma and bold flavor that stands up to teri-yaki dishes, enhancing the meal. The saké, brewed by leading saké maker Ozeki, uses pure rice, meaning no water is added prior to bottling. The alcohol content is a bit higher than most, and the saké is rich and flavor-ful.


a b r i d g e f ro m we st to e a st

Wine For Sushi

The first California wines blended specifically to compliment sushi and

bold Asian flavors.

Distributed in Washington by

Learn more about Hashi at hashiwines.comor call Greg at 503.756.8988 or email [email protected]

Ask for it at your favorite sushi restaurant or Asian market.

Distributed in Oregon by Hashi Wines

WATER from the Sierra Nevada, harmonious balance of

essential mineral and mellow taste

RICE selected short grain rice, nurtured and grown exclusively for

Ozeki in the rice Sacramento Valley

TRADITION centuries of sake brewing, a lifelong commitment to

1excellence and the harmony of tradition and technology

The 3 Elements of Ozeki Sake. The Essence of Great Taste.

www.ozekisake.com

Wines Made for Japanese Cuisine

Toryu means “rising dragon.” This saké gives off an immediate scent of wild and flourishing sweet mash with a hint of dry-ness. Soft and mild initial taste is followed by a flare of spicy sweetness taking over the palate. This saké has a bit higher al-cohol content than most. The full-bodied richness pairs well with teriyaki and other meat dishes.

Toryu - Rising DragonBrewery: HakuyouType: Junmai

This junmai saké uses a unique strain of saké rice, gouriki (enormous strength), grown in Tottori Prefecture and only used by two local breweries. True to the name of the rice used and the influence of the harsh weather off the Japan Sea, this saké gives off an immediate aroma of earthi-ness. The twistiness of the flavor settles nicely in your mouth, leaving a long linger-ing aftertaste. A perfect pairing for a flavor-ful dish like teriyaki.

Rokumaru Junmai- Six CirclesBrewery: NakagawaType: Junmai

Sitting in a Japanese restaurant one day, two friends started a conversation about whether a wine could be made to pair with the distinct flavors and highlights of Japanese cuisine. That discussion led to the creation of Hashi Wines, a line of reds and whites made to go with sushi, sashimi, yakitori and other Japanese dishes. Hashi Wines President Greg Kuhns ex-plains that the company allied itself with California wine pro-ducers to come up with a crisp white wine just right for the ocean flavors of sushi and a supple red that could complement a tonkatsu dinner or some skewers of grilled meat. The wines are being served in Japanese restaurants across the country. Just as saké is finding new pairings with grilled salmon and oysters, Hashi Wines is proving that Japanese cuisine pairs perfectly with a white or a red wine as long as the vineyard has the distinct flavors and balance of that cuisine in mind.


Sake

Made in America

Saké Pairings Break out of the Box

More restaurants in the Pacific Northwest are pairing saké with lo-cal cuisine. At Canliss, which looks out toward the Cascades from its perch on Queen Anne hill in Seattle, the wine list is as big as a phonebook, but it includes several premium sakés. “The Canliss family believes its list should include every sort of ‘wine,’” says an employee. Another local delicacy that goes well with saké is oysters. The pop-ular Japanese manga Oishinbo wrote that the sake Horin paired better with oysters than a nice Chablis (see page 4 for more on Horin).

CheeseHow about a saké to go with gorgonzola? Try Housui Yamahai Tokubetsu Junmai from Tokushima Prefecture. Its full rich flavor starts with a taste of the sour mash and ends with a hint of sweet-ness, making it perfect to pair with cheeses. Or Kura Daiginjo from Nagano Prefecture, which has a smokiness to it that comple-ments cheese and peppered deli meats.

Aperitifs and Digestives

Northwest Cuisine

Saketinis have made their way onto many a bar menu because of their complex flavors and lower alcoholic and caloric content than their gin and vermouth counterparts. Mix an ounce of lime, an ounce or two of coconut syrup, a dash of milk or half-and-half , two ounces of saké, shake it up, and you have yourself one of many varieties of saketini. Another good way to enjoy saké is to try the cloudy nigori saké, which tends to be sweet and have a fruity nose and mild flavor. It is great as a digestive or dessert wine and can complement spicy food. Nigori saké is unfiltered, which gives it its cloudiness. Finally, try a sparkling saké like ZIPANG and Hana-awaka, smooth-drink-ing naturally carbonated sakés that make an exotic substitute for champagne.

SakeOne, an American saké brewery in Forest Grove, Or-egon, set up in the Pacific Northwest for one main reason: the water. The only American-owned and operated saké brewery needed the finest water source it could find, and Forest Grove had it. The brewery has ridden the wave of enthusiasm in the US for high-grade saké while also fighting the naysayers who argue that good saké can’t be brewed here. “We are like the early people who planted pinot noir in the Willamette Valley,” says Dewey Weddington of SakeOne. Just like the pinot pio-neers, he explains, SakeOne is often left out of the conversa-tion because the conversation about saké centers on Japanese brands. But as chefs and restaurateurs begin to experiment with saké and Northwest cuisine, Weddington sees oppor-tunity ahead for American-made saké. SakeOne has a strong working relationship with Momokawa Brewing of Aomori Prefecture, Japan, assuring that the only American-owned and made saké brewery is steeped in the centuries-old brew-ing traditions of Japan.


Dessert Saké and dessert? That’s right. The combination can work quite well, say some adventurous pastry chefs and saké enthusiasts. “Surprisingly, cheesecake goes really good with most saké,” says Seattle area Patisserie Chef Sestuko Agata. “Chocolate cake goes as good with sake as most libations too.”In collaboration with Setsuko and Orcas Distributing, IBUKI will introduce two fantastic saké and dessert pairings at our food pairing event on July 10th at Issian. Come try the novel and deli-cious pairings with us!

Mochikko is a good saké to pair with des-serts — it is made with 100% mochi rice, something that only five breweries in Ja-pan have attempted because it is such hard

work. The saké has a subtle sweetness that matches well with Setsuko’s daifuku, a small round ball of mochi stuffed with sweet bean paste.

Another saké that can pair with a dessert is Yoi-notsuki Daiginjo from Tsukinowa brewery. It is smooth and rich with a hint of sweet melon — just the sort of elegant saké that pairs well with Setsuko’s delicate cheese-cake.

IBUKI magazine presents

Saké & FoodPairing Event

Saturday July 10th, 2-4pmat Issian, Walling ford

$32 per personlimited seating , by reservation only

To register, visit www.ibukimagazine.com/event

or call 425-440-9939

Come and taste the sakéfeatured in this article


Teriyaki ChickenQuick and easy dishes for your saké party

Here is a simple, traditional recipe for teriyaki chicken. You do not need to marinate chicken or use teriyaki sauce. Enjoy the sweet and rich teriyaki flavor at home.

Ingredients (4 servings)

Directions

1. Cut chicken thigh into bite-size pieces. In a small bowl, add saké, soy sauce, rice vinegar and sugar, and mix well.

2. Heat saucepan, place chicken in pan and cook both sides until golden grown.

3. Wipe off excess oil with a paper towel.4. Add sugar, rice vinegar, saké and soy sauce. Cook until

liquid is mostly gone. 5. Remove chicken from saucepan and place on plate.6. Cook the sauce in the saucepan for a few more minutes

until it thickens. Coat chicken with sauce.

Chicken thigh ..........................................................1.5 lbSaké............................................................................ 3 tbsSoy sauce .................................................................... 3 tbsRice vinegar ................................................................ 3 tbsSugar .......................................................................... 3 tbs

Cucumber with Miso Dip


Directions

1. In a small bowl, mix saké, miso, rice vinegar and sugar to make miso dip.

2. Serve sliced cucumber with miso dip.

Cucumbers (sliced) ...........................................................1Saké............................................................................ 1 tbsMiso ........................................................................... 3 tbsRice vinegar ................................................................ 1 tbsSugar .......................................................................... 1 tbs

Cucumber with miso dip is typical izakaya bar food in Japan. It is a healthy snack that goes well with saké.


RECIPE

Check out more recipes online

www.ibukimagazine.com

Finest Green Teawww.MyGreenTea.com

(425) 260-7899

Saké for cooking?

As you can imagine, you do not have to use expensive premium saké for cooking. If you tour Uwajimaya, you will find several types of table sak´ priced a very reasonable $10 or so for a large size. They are good for cooking as well as drinking. Saké is used often when cooking Japanese dishes. Now grab your favorite table saké and get started cooking Japanese food!


Manila Clams Steamed with Saké

Directions

Manila clams ............................................................1.5 lbGreen onion .......................................................... 1 bunchGarlic (minced) ................................................................1Saké............................................................................ 3 tbsSoy sauce .................................................................... 1 tspOil ..........................................................................1/4 tbs

This quick recipe makes a fantastic appetizer that goes great with chilled saké. Make sure you don't overcook it so that you can enjoy the soft and flavorful Pacific Northwest clams. Scooping and sipping the saké sauce with the clam shell is a secret joy of this dish.

1. In midsize pan, heat 1/4 tablespoon oil and add minced garlic. Add Manila clams and saké.

2. Close lid and steam until all clams are opened.3. Add soy sauce just before serving. Top with green onion.


Special Recipe by Setsko Pastry

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sit eggs aside so they warm to room temperature. Melt butter. Sift the baking soda and flour together.

2. In a bowl, beat eggs and add sugar. Mix them with electronic mixer for about 10 minutes.

Professional's Tip !While mixing beaten eggs and sugar, warm them to body temperature by using double boiler. That way, eggs become frothier and make the cake soft and fluffy.

3. Add saké to the bowl and mix for a minute.4. Gradually add the dry ingredients (shifted flour and

baking powder) and mix until blended. 5. Add melted butter and gently mix together.6. Pour into a greased and floured cake pan and bake for 30

to 35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.

7. Remove the pan from the oven.

Professional's Tip!Drop the cake out of the pan into a plate from about 5 inches high. This will prevent cake from shrinking unevenly.

8. In a small pan, add sugar and water and heat until sugar is melted. Remove the pan from heat and add saké. Stir into syrup. Brush the cake with the sake syrup.

Saké Pound Cake

Egg .................................................. 2 (room temperature)All-purpose flour ....................................................... 1 cupSugar .....................................................................1/2 cupBaking powder ........................................................... 1 tspSaké..................................................................1 tbs +1 tspUnsalted butter ........................................ 1/2 cup (1 stick)(For syrup)Sugar .......................................................................... 2 tbsWater ......................................................................... 3 tbsSaké........................................................................1/2 cup

Ingredients (Makes two 6x3 inch loaves)

Directions

Local Japanese pâtissier Setsuko created this unique recipe for IBUKI magazine’s special saké issue. Setsuko specializes in custom-made cakes using her own recipes with a Japanese twist. Creating desserts using saké is one of her recent ventures. Enjoy this moist pound cake with rich saké fragrance and flavor.

Setsuko Pastry

Setsuko’s creations are all made from scratch with a low sugar content, no artificial flavors and no preservatives. Setsuko specializes in custom orders and creates recipes for vegan, low sugar, flour-free, egg-less and other special diets. Her cakes are also available at Issian Stone Grill (1618 North 45th St, Seattle), Kozue Japanese Restaurant (1608 N45th St, Seat-tle), Root Table Restaurant (2213 NW Market St, Seattle) , Shun Restaurant (5105 25th Avenue NE, #11, Seattle) and Panama Tea House (607 S Main Street, Seattle). Check out her monthly special cakes on her blog.Setsuko Pastry (206) 816- 0348 / www.setsukopastry.com

Green tea rolls Strawberry mousse


Blue C Sushi - Fremont (206) 633-34113411 Fremont Ave N, SeattleBlue C Sushi - 7th avenue (206) 467-4022 1510 7th Ave, SeattleBush Garden Restaurant(206)682-6830614 Maynard Avenue S., SeattleCutting Board(206) 767-80755503 Airport Way S, SeattleFuji Sushi(206) 624-1201520 S Main St, SeattleGenki Sushi(206) 453-3881 500 Mercer St. Unit C-2, 2B, SeattleHana Restaurant (206) 328-1187219 Broadway E, SeattleHiroshi’s Restaurant(206) 726-49662501 Eastlake Ave E, Seattle Ichiban Restaurant206-623-8868601 S Main St, SeattleI Love Sushi - Lake Union206-625-96041001 Fairview Ave N, SeattleImo Asian Bistro(206) 264-9570704 1st Ave, SeattleIssian(206) 632-70101618 N 45th St, SeattleJ Sushi(206) 287-9000674 S Weller St, SeattleKaname Izakaya Shochu Bar(206) 682-1828610 S Jackson St, Seattle

Kisaku(206) 545-90502101 N. 55th St. #100, SeattleKozue Japanese Restaurant(206) 547-20081608 N 45th St, SeattleManeki(206) 622-2631304 6th Ave S, SeattleMarinepolis Sushi Land -Queen Anne Hill(206) 267-7621803 5th Ave N, SeattleMoshi Moshi Sushi(206) 971-74245324 Ballard Avenue, SeattleNishino(206) 322-58003130 E Madison St # 106, SeattleNijo(206) 340-888089 Spring St, SeattleOtoto Sushi(206) 691-38387 Boston St, SeattleRed Fin Sushi Restaurant(206) 441-4340612 Stewart St, SeattleSamurai Noodle -International District(206) 624-9321606 5th Ave St, SeattleSamurai Noodle - University District(206) 547-17744138 University Way NE, SeattleShiki Japanese Restaurant(206) 281-13524W Roy St, SeattleShun Japanese Cuisine(206) 522-22005101 NE 25th Ave #11, SeattleTsukushinbo(206) 467-4004515 S Main St, Seattle

SEATTLE

Greater Seattle

Mashiko Japanese Restaurant(206) 935-4339 4725 California Ave SW, SeattleCheck out sushiwhore.com You’ll like it.

Kushibar(206) 448-24882319 2nd Ave, Seattlewww.kushibar.com

Shiro’s Sushi Restaurant(206) 443-98442401 2nd Ave, Seattlewww.shiros.com

Boom Noodle, Capitol Hill(206) 701-91301121 E Pike St, Seattlewww.boomnoodle.com

Maekawa Bar(206) 622-0634601 S King St # 206,Seattle

Fort St. George(206) 382-0662601 S King St # 202, Seattle

Aoki Japanese Grill & Sushi Bar(206) 324-3633621 Broadway E, Seattle Blue C Sushi - University Village(206) 525-46014601 26th Ave NE, Seattle

Restaurant Directory

Dinner Mon-Thu 4:30-10:00pm Fri & Sat 4:30-11:30pm Sun 4:30-9:00pm

1618 N. 45th street, SeattleWallingford (206) 632-7010www.issian-seattle.com

Lunch Sat & Sun 12-2:30pmHappy HourEveryday 4:30-6:30pm

IZAKAYA 居酒屋 IZAKAYA 居酒屋 IZAKAYA 居酒屋 IZAKAYA


Restaurant DirectoryDozo Cafe(425) 644-88993720 Factoria Blvd SETry authentic Ramen. No MSG.

Sushi Joa(206) 230-41202717 78th Ave SE, Mercer Islandwww. sushijoa.com

Boom Noodle, Bellevue Square(425) 453-6094504 Bellevue Square, Bellevuewww.boomnoodle.com

Flo Japanese Sushi Restaurant(425) 453-40051188 106th Ave NE, BellevueGinza Japanese Restaurant(425) 709-7072103 102nd Ave SE, BellevueI Love Sushi -One Lake Bellevue(425) 455-909023 Lake Bellevue Dr, BellevueI Love Sushi -Bellevue Main(425) 454-570611818 NE 8th St, BellevueIzakaya Sushi - at The Landing(425) 228-2800829 N 10th St. Suite G, RentonIzumi Japanese Restaurant with Sushi-Bar(425) 821-195912539 116th Ave N.E., KirklandKobe Wellbeing Tonkatsu & Tao Sushi Bar(425) 451-3888850 110th Ave NE, BellevueKikuya Restaurant(425) 881-87718105 161st Ave NE, Redmond

Toyoda Sushi(206) 367-797212543 Lake City Way, SeattleWabi-Sabi Sushi Bar & Restaurant(206) 721-02124909 Rainier Ave S, SeattleWasabi Bistro(206) 441-60442311 2nd Ave, SeattleWann Japanese Izakaya(206) 441-56372020 2nd Ave, Seattle

North EndCafe Soleil(425) 493-18479999 Harbour Place # 105, MukilteoBluefin Sushi & Seafood Buffet(206) 367-0115401 NE Northgate Way # 463, SeattleBlue C Sushi - the Village at Alderwood Mall(425) 329-3596 3000 184th St SW, LynnwoodCherry Blossom Sushi Bar & Grill(425) 315-802210809 Mukilteo Speedway, MukilteoEdina Sushi(425) 776-806819720 44th Ave W, LynnwoodMarinepolis Sushi Land -Lynnwood(425) 275-902218500 33rd Ave NW, LynnwoodMatsu Sushi(425) 771-3368 19505 44th Ave W #K, LynnwoodSakuma Japanese Restaurant(425) 347-306310924 Mukilteo Speedway # G, MukilteoSetsuna Japanese Restaurant and Bar(206) 417-317511204 Roosevelt Way NE, Seattle

Taka Sushi(425) 778-168918904 Hwy 99 Suite A, LynnwoodWarabi Japanese Restaurant & Bar(206) 361-262013754 Aurora Ave N, Seattle

South End

Miyabi Restaurant(206) 575-681516820 Southcenter Parkway, Tukwila

Blue C Sushi - Westfield Southcenter(206) 277-8744468 Southcenter Mall, TukwilaBlossom Asian Bistro(425) 430-1610305 Burnett Avenue South, RentonGenki Sushi -Renton(425) 277-1050365 S. Grady Way Ste. B & C, RentonMarinepolis Sushi Land -Southcenter Mall(206) 816-3280100 Andover Park West 160, TukwilaNew Zen Japanese Restaurant(425) 254-159910720 SE Carr Rd, RentonBistro Satsuma(253) 858-51515315 Point Fosdick Dr NW #A, Gig Harbor

EastsideBlue C Sushi, Bellevue Square (425) 454-8288503 Bellevue Square, BellevueBlue Ginger Korean Grill & Sushi(425) 746-122214045 NE 20th St, Bellevue


Restaurant DirectoryKiku Sushi(425) 644-235815555 NE 24th St, BellevueRikki Rikki Authentic Japanese Restaurant (425) 828-0707442 Parkplace Center, KirklandMarinepolis Sushi Land -Bellevue(425) 455-2793138 107th Ave. NE, BellevueMarinepolis Sushi Land -Redmond(425) 284-25878910 161st Ave NE, RedmondSushi Maru(425) 453-0100205 105th Ave, BellevueSushi Me(425) 644-98001299 156th Ave NE #145, BellevueMomoya Restaurant(425) 889-902012100 NE 85th St, KirklandTokyo Japanese Restaurent(425) 641-56913500 Factoria Blvd SE, BellevueZen Asian Bistro, Japanese & Thai(425) 453-2999989 112th Ave NE #105, Bellevue2AM(425) 643-188814603 NE 20th St #4, Bellevue

PORTLANDPortlandBamboo Sushi(503) 232-5255310 SE 28th Ave, PortlandBiwa Restaurant(503) 239-8830215 SE 9th Avenue, Portland

Blue Fin Sushi(503) 274-79221988 SW Broadway, PortlandBush Garden(503) 226-7181900 SW Morrison St, PortlandCrescendo noodle house & bar(503) 226-718116055 SW Regatta Lane, BeavertonHiroshi Restaurant(503) 619-0559926 NW 10th Ave, PortlandKoji Osakaya -Downtown Portland(503) 294-1169 606 SW Broadway, PortlandKoji Osakaya - Lloyd Place(503) 280-0992 1502 NE Weidler, PortlandMarinepolis Sushi Land -Lloyd(503) 280-03001409 NE Weidler St, PortlandMarinepolis Sushi Land -Pearl(503) 546-9933138 NW 10th Ave, PortlandMika Sushi(503) 222-06991425 SW 2nd Avenue, PortlandSaburo’s Sushi House Restaurant(503) 236-42371667 SE Bybee Blvd, PortlandYuki Sushi & Sake Bar(503) 525-8807930 NW 23rd Ave, Portland

Beaverton / HillsboroHakatamon(503) 641-461310500 SW Bvtn-Hillsdale Hwy, BeavertonHanabi’s Izakaya Bistro & Bar(503) 646-198610053 SW Nimbus Ave, Beaverton

Ikenohana(503) 646-126714308 SW Allen Blvd, BeavertonIzakaya Kaiten Sushi(503) 643-257814605 SW Millikan Way, BeavertonI love Sushi(503) 644-52523486 SW Cedar Hills Blvd, BeavertonKoji Osakaya -Hillsboro(503) 629-18152215 NW Allie Ave, HillsboroMarinepolis Sushi Land -Beaverton(503) 520-02574021 SW 117th Ave, BeavertonSyun Izakaya(503) 640-3131 209 NE Lincoln St, HillsboroSambi Japanese Restaurant(503) 296-00459230 SW Bvtn-Hillsdale Hwy, BeavertonSushi & Maki(503) 648-4366 2401 NE Cornell Rd No. X, HillsboroYuzu Japanese Restaurant(503) 350-18014130 SW 117th Avenue #H, BeavertonYuki Sushi & Sake Bar(503) 430-52751335 NE Orenco Station Pkwy, Hillsboro

Vancouver WAMarinepolis Sushi Land -Vancouver(360) 883-38811401 SE 164th Ave, Vancouver


2319 2nd Ave, Seattle, WA 98121 | (202) 448-2488 | Hours: Weekdays 11:30 am – 1am, Weekends 4 pm – 1am

Come Experience Japanese street foodkushibar

www.kushibar.com

Japanese libations are following Japanese cui-sine into the mainstream of American food culture. More restaurants are stocking impres-sive collections of sake and offering advice to curious customers. Here’s a quick guide to some fine greater Seattle establishments with some impressive sake and shochu lists.

Umi Saké House (2230 1st Ave. Seattle) has one of the most impressive saké collections of any restaurant in the US. Proprietor Cody Burns says the restaurant stocks 60 to 65 types of saké at any time. He created a detailed saké menu for guests and is eager to offer advice on pairings with sushi or other dishes. Burns says the goal of Umi Saké House is to get people to at least try the drink. If you want to sample several over a meal, head here.Just around the corner from Umi Saké House is Kushibar (2319 2nd Ave.), a restaurant dedicated to Japanese street food on skewers. In keeping with that theme, Kushibar stocks an extensive collection of shochu, a distilled beverage similar to vodka although with fewer calories and a lower alcohol content. Kushibar typically carries 10 kinds of shochu, includ-ing some made from sweet potato, barley and rice. The drink, which is about 50 proof, is often served mixed with juice or soda like a cocktail (called a chuhai) or with a dash of hot water. It is meant to be paired with food.In West Seattle, Mashiko (4725 California Ave. SW) serves 35 different brands of saké to go with its extensive menu of sustainable su-shi (the restaurant doesn’t serve anything that is being overfished or is in danger of extinc-

tion). Chef Hajime Sato and his staff are hap-py to offer suggestions for sake to pair with the more unusual, creative dishes they serve.Miyabi (16820 Southcenter Pkwy., Tukwila) makes a point of having hard-to-find saké to match each season. Chef Masa was born in Tokushima Prefecture, so the restaurant has a soft spot for Tokushima saké such as Housui, a saké Edo Era warlords drank as they sat along the river and wrote haiku. Another find is Tsu-kuba tokubetsu junmai from Ibaraki Prefec-ture. This saké gives off a flowery, candylike aroma accompanied by a sweet mash dryness. Miyabi also has an extensive selection of sho-chu made from potato, rice, barley and soba buckwheat. In the heart of the International District, Maekawa Bar (601 S. King St.) serves up about 10 kinds of sake and 11 types of sho-chu. Rub elbows with the many young Japa-nese who frequent Maekawa. Their drink of choice? Chuhai cocktails mixing shochu with everything from fruit-flavored sodas to oolong tea.Shiro Kashiba, the grandaddy of Seattle sushi (he opened the city’s first sushi bar in 1966), says the sake he’s been recommending to din-ers this spring is Hatsumago, or “First Grand-child.” It goes with the flavorful spring deli-cacies of the Pacific Northwest such as ocean smelt, halibut and sweet shrimp.For those who want to try sake but are on a budget, try Sushi Joa (2717 78th Ave. SE, Mercer Island) when they feature half-price sake days on Monday and Tuesday. In Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood, Issian

(1618 N. 45th St.) offers inexpensive deals at happy hour, such as half-price bottle sake. The stone grill has a list of about 10 types of sake to sample. Nishino (3130 E. Madison St, Seattle) offers sake and food pairing events every month. Sake Specialist Yuichi Saito presents a sake and the chef Tatsu Nishino cooks a full-course dinner to go with it. The event is up to 8 guests at $100 each. The next events are on May 26 and June 21. Both events run from 6:30 to 8:30.

Now more than ever, the Pacific Northwest is a great place to learn about and taste a wide range of sake. If you find a favorite restaurant with an interesting collection of sake or sho-chu, be sure to let us know about it so we can spread the word.

DINE OUT

Restaurant Roundup: Where to Find Sake, ShochuBy Bruce Rutledge

Umi Saké House’s wall of saké labels.


Business DirectoryArt & FurnitureKoboKobo at Higo(206) 381-3000604 S Jackson St, SeattleKobo Capitol Hill(206) 726-0704814 E Roy, SeattleShop & gallery featuring art, craft and design from Japan and the Northwestkoboseattle.com

Ming’s Asian GallerySeattle(206) 748-7889519 6th Ave S, SeattleBellevue(425) 462-400810217 Main St, BellevueFine antique and contem-porary Asian furniture mingsgallery.com

Azuma Gallery(206) 622-5599530 1st Ave S, Seattle

Takumi Company(206) 622-2804JapaneseCarpentry.comCarolyn Staley Fine Prints(206) 621-18882003 Western Ave #107, SeattleChidori Asian Antiques(206) 343-7736108 So.Jackson St, SeattleGlenn Richards - Asian Furnishings & Antiques(206) 287-1877964 Denny Way, SeattleKagedo(206) 467-9077520 1st Ave S, SeattleThe Cullom Gallery(206) 919-8278313 Occidental Ave S, SeattleShogun’s Gallery(503) 224-03281111 NW 23rd Ave, Portland

Bakery and CafeSetsuko Pastry(206) 816 03481618 N 45th St, SeattleA Healthy Alternative pas-try with a Japanese spinwww.setsukopastry.com

Fuji Bakery(425) 641-40501502 145the PL SE, BellevueFumie’s Gold(425) 223-589310045 Northeast 1st Street, BellevueHiroki Desserts(206) 547-41282224 N 56th St, SeattlePanama Hotel Tea & Coffee House(206) 515-4000607 S Main St, SeattleUnicorn Crepes(206) 652-0637421 6th Avenue South, Seattle

Books, Games & AnimeAnime Asylum(503) 284-66261009 Lloyd Center, Portland, OR

Anime Raku(425) 454-011210627 NE 8th St, Bellevue

Kinokuniya Book Store - Seattle(206) 587-2477525 S Weller St, Seattle

Kinokuniya Book Store - Beaverton(503) 641-624010500 SW Bvtn-Hillsdale Hwy, BeavertonPink Gorilla - International District (206) 264-2434601 S King St, SeattlePink Gorilla - University District(206) 547-57904341 University Ave NE, SeattleTokyo Lifestyle(206) 241-0219633 Westfield, Southcenter Mall, Tukwila

FashionMomo(206) 329-4736600 S Jackson St, SeattleTotokaelo(206) 623.3582913 Western Ave, Seattle

General StoreAnzen Hiroshi’s(503) 233-5111736 NE MLK Blvd, PortlandDaiso Alderwood Mall(425) 673-18253000 184th St SW, # 398, LynnwoodDaiso West Lake Center(206) 625-0076400 Pine St. #1005, SeattleDaiso International District76 S Washington St, Seattle

Health and BeautyHen Sen Herbs(206) 328-282813256 NE 20th St. Suite 3A, BellevueAcupuncture Associates -Eastgate(425) 289-018815100 SE 38th St #305B, BellevueAcupuncture Associates -Redmond(425) 882-011216761 NE 79th, RedmondCentral Chiropractic Clinic(206) 362-352015027 Aurora Ave N, ShorelineWellnessOne of Eastgate(425) 289-009215100 SE 38th St., Ste. 305B, Bellevue

Japanese ConfectioneryBlue Camellia(425) 889-2735Tokara Confectionery(206) 784-0226


Business DirectorySakeSaké Nomi(206) 467-725376 S Washington St, Seattle

SchoolsMusicSchool of Taiko(425) 785-8316www.Japantaiko.comCookingBlue Camellia - a Japanese Confectionery (425) 889-273511229 NE 106th Pl, Kirkland, WAHiroko Sugiyama Culinary Atelier(425) 836-463522207 NE 31st St, SammamishNuCulinary(206) 932-38556523 California Ave SW, SeattleSatsuma Cooking School(206) 244-515117105 Ambaum Blvd S, SeattleJapanese CalligraphyAkashi USA Co - Redmond(425) 869-09946611 147th Ct NE, Redmond

Japanese Floral DesignIkebana by Megumi(425) 744-9751www.ikebanabymegumi.comIkenobo Lake Washington Chapter(425) 803-326811832 NE 73rd St, KirklandThe Little Flower Station(425) 770-5888www.thelittleflowerstation.comYushoryu Ikenobo(206) 723-49945548 Beason Ave. S.,SeattleLanguageSeattle Japanese Language School(206) 323-02501414 S Weller St, SeattleWashington Academy of Languages(206) 682-44632 Nickerson St, # 201, SeattleMartial ArtsAikido Eastside(425) 802-3125 13410 SE 32nd St, BellevueSeattle Kendo Kai(206) 721-14161610 S King St, Seattle

Seattle Judo Dojo(206) 324-70801510 S Washington St, SeattleSeattle School of Aikido(206) 525-19553422 NE 55th St, SeattleKoei-Kan Karate-Do Bellevue(425) 747-94111910 132nd Ave NE, #11, BellevueObukan Kendo Club(503) 443-22814130 SW 117th Ave. Suite 246, BeavertonPortland Aikikai(503) 274-26061623 NW Marshall, PortlandTea CeremonyUrasenke Foundation Seattle Branch(206) 324-14832360 43rd Ave East, #113, SeattleOtherJapanese Abacus Math School(503) 520-106315188 NW Central Drive #219, Portland

Bring global diversity into your everyday cooking

Have you ever gotten lost at Uwajimaya wondering what to buy, staring at unfamiliar sea-sonings and funny shaped vegetables? For those people who want to begin cooking Asian

dishes but don’t know how to get started, NuCulinary offers great practical cooking classes at the Bellevue and Renton Uwajimaya stores and NVC Memorial Hall. NuCulinary President Naomi Kakiuchi was born and grew up in Seattle with her big Asian family. After graduating Washington State University with a degree in nutrition and dietetics, she worked in the food sales business where she realized that she wanted to teach others the joys of cooking. “I feel that by building understanding of other peoples through culinary experiences, we contribute to the tol-erance of others and hopefully a more peaceful world,” Naomi said. “Food is a bridge to peace.” NuCulinary has two more main instructors: Toby Kim and Hajime Sato. Toby is sous chef with Jerry Traunfeld at both Poppy on Seattle’s Capitol Hill and The Herbfarm. Hajime is owner/chef of Mashiko Japanese Restaurant in West Seattle, where he serves sustainable sushi. NuCulinary’s current focus is Asian cuisine such as Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean and Japanese. However, Naomi wants to expand to Africa and South/Central America in the future.Their classes are very practical. Most classes at Uwajimaya include a chef ’s tour of the store so that students can find and understand the ingredients. Their Everyday Asian Series classes at Renton Uwajimaya provide a one-pot dinner from a specific cuisine (i.e. Japanese, Chinese, Hawaiian) and a bag of pantry staples for students to take home. Each student receives a 10% discount coupon for purchases at any of three Uwajimaya stores. So why not try their classes and bring global diversity into your everyday cooking?

NuCulinary | (206) 932-3855 6523 | www.nuculinary.com

Many of the students love to eat Asian dishes and want to learn to make them at home.


city blocks are laid out in a pattern similar to American towns. These similarities are not coincidental — Japan hired a number of Americans to assist with the agricultural and technical development of Hokkaido in the 19th Century, and the influences can still be seen. In fact, here you will find what is probably Japan’s only statue honoring an American — William Smith Clark. Clark established what would become Hok-kaido University in the 1870s. Today his visage overlooks Sapporo from several locations Sapporo is Hokkaido’s capital and largest city. It is a new city, settled and developed following the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Almost a polar opposite to a city such as Kyoto, Sapporo is young and its history is recent. It is known as the host of the 1972 Winter Olympics and the annual Snow Festival, which at-tracts 2 million visitors a year. Parks and open space in the city are plentiful, and in the winter the skiing is just minutes away. The cool climate is good for the appetite, and Sapporo is a great place to eat. Restaurants special-izing in fresh crab from the cold northern waters are ubiquitous in Sapporo’s Susukino restau-rant and entertainment district. This is where miso ramen was

Sapporo Snow festival

King Clab

Sapporo Ramen

Photo ©Yasufumi Nishi/© JNTO

TRAVEL

Hokkaido by Steve Corless

© Furano /© JNTO

Japan is well known as a relatively small and very densely populated country. This is true; most of the 127 million people live in the

coastal regions in an area roughly the size of California. About 75% of the country is forested and mountainous, limiting the land avail-able for residential and other uses. But the archipelago stretches some

1,800 miles from Hokkaido in the north to the southernmost subtropical islands. A visit to Hokkaido reminds one of the geographical and historic di-versity of the country.I like to describe Hokkaido as Japan’s Alaska. It has only been recently set-tled, boasts wide-open spaces and has plentiful seafood resources. Also, the people are hearty and embrace the weather and the outdoor activities the region offers. And yes, you can see Rus-sia from Hokkaido — the Russian oc-cupied (and claimed by Japan) Kuril Is-lands are visible from the eastern town of Nemuro.First-time visitors to Hokkaido are struck by the landscape and differences in scale compared to the rest of Japan. Small rice fields are rare in Hokkaido — traveling from the airport to Sap-poro, you will spot large farms and

pastures, American-sized farm machinery and perhaps even a grain silo reminiscent of the American Midwest. Upon arrival in Sapporo, Hokkaido’s largest city, something else seems different — streets and


born, and ramen fans from around the country visit just to slurp the noodles at the Ramen Yokocho, a collection of ramen stands claiming to have the town’s most authen-tic Sapporo ramen. But my favorite Sapporo food experi-ence is the “Genghis Khan” lamb barbeque at the 1,000-seat Sapporo Brewery beer-hall. Forty dollars buys you 100 minutes of all the grill-it-yourself lamb and fresh beer you can handle. The historic port town of Ota-ru, a short drive or train ride from Sapporo, is an excellent day trip out of the city. Otaru

is an old fishing and trading village with well preserved ar-chitecture and the picturesque

canals and restored brick warehouses used by seafood traders during Otaru’s herring fishing boom years. Otaru is well known as having some of the freshest sushi in the country, a reputation that is well deserved. Prior to the settlement of Hokkaido by ethnic Japanese from the main islands, Hokkaido and parts of northern Honshu were populated by the Ainu people, a culturally and racially distinct indigenous ethnic

© Kanazawa City / JNTO

Sapporo Beer Garden Monkeys enjoy the hot springs in Hakodate Tropical Garden.

Photo ©Hokkaido Tourism Organization/© JNTO

Photo ©Hokkaido Tourism Organization/© JNTO

group. Although today the Ainu population is small, there are places in Hokkaido where one can visit to learn more about the history, culture and art of the Ainu. The Shiraoi Ainu Museum near Noboribetsu south of Sap-poro has an excellent museum that includes a reproduction of a traditional Ainu village.As in the rest of Japan, the train system in Hokkaido is excellent. But Hokkaido is best seen by car — the expressways and roads are the best in the country thanks to government-funded public-works programs and a relatively small population compared to the rest of Japan. Before you go, pick up an international driver’s license, and once you get behind the wheel, just remember to drive on the wrong side of the road.

Steve Corless is an independent travel consultant based in Seattle. Steve spent 15 years in Japan working in sales and marketing and as a US foreign service officer in Tokyo and Osaka. He lives in Lynnwood with his wife and daughter.

24 息吹 ibuki • may / june 201024 息吹 ibuki • Winter 2009

W

© 1999, 2006, Naoki Urasawa, Studio Nuts / Shogakukan © 2008 “20th Century Boys” Film Partners

© 1999, 2006, Naoki Urasawa, Studio Nuts/Shogakukan © 2009 “20th Century Boys” Film Partners

Sci-fi action20th Century Boys I: Beginning of the End

20th Century Boys II: The Last Hope

Japan on the Big ScreenBy Jessica Sattell

hen you think of Japanese cinema, what kind of films spring to mind? Dramatic samurai stories and cutting-edge animation are embedded in the

American popular consciousness, but recent releases show that movie-making in Japan can still be a bold, genre-busting experience. If a sci-fi action thriller or a dark romantic comedy sounds like something to get your inner movie

buff glued to the screen, these films are for you.It used to be a real challenge to find great Japa-nese flicks. These days, however, you don’t have to trek to a niche import video store to find great new films from Japan. Thanks to film dis-tributors such as Viz Pictures, FUNimation and Shochiku Films, a wide variety of entertaining and award-winning movies from Japan are now widely available and winning vast numbers of

English-speaking fans. The Seattle International Film Festival (SIFF), which runs from late May through mid June, is featuring several films from Japan in its 2010 lineup.We picked the best of the best in the recent Jap-anese films that have been released in the US. There’s something for everyone in these eight films, from heartwarming hula dancers to stone cold scientific thrills and everything in between.

Sci-fi action

In an alternate reality of late 20th Century Ja-pan, a group of elementary-school friends meet at a reunion and reminisce about their boy-hood summers spent building forts and creat-ing their own secret society. Eerily, the details of their memories of a prophetic picture book they wrote seem unnaturally close to recent world events and the workings of a suspicious religious cult led by a figure known as “Friend.”

In 2015, 15 years after the conclusion of the first part of 20th Century Boys, Friend is still at large and more dangerously influential than ever. Kenji’s niece, Kanna (Airi Taira), is deter-mined to continue her beloved uncle’s revolu-tion against the cult leader’s brainwashing of the masses. Spunky teenage Kanna refuses to accept that the allies of Friend are unrelated to the increasingly gruesome string of murders in her own neighborhood and enlists the help of a

Kenji (Toshiaki Karasawa) suspects that there’s a connection between his childhood games, his missing older sister’s work as a scientist and the alarming news that Friend is currying favor with the Japanese government. He sets out with friends Otcho (Etsushi Toyokawa) and Yukiji (Takako Tokiwa) to seek answers, but what they find goes deeper than any kind of childhood game.

20th Century Boys stays very faithful to its ori-gins as a blockbuster manga in its dramatic cam-era angles and aggressive aesthetics. True to its name, the film weaves in characteristics of 20th Century Japanese cultural history, includ-ing drastic political shifts, bubble consumerism and the destruction of nuclear war. This psycho-logical thriller will stay with you days after you watch the finishing credits.

skeptical cop and her friends in the Tokyo un-derworld to bring justice to the victims of a cor-rupt government. Otcho (Etsushi Toyokawa) and Yukiji (Takako Tokiwa) reappear to lend a hand.This middle chapter of the three-part 20th Cen-tury Boys series gives the viewer even more es-sential clues to this puzzle of a narrative. The sur-prising conclusion to this heart-pounding series is set to arrive on US shores soon!


Slapstick comedy

© Cine Qua Non 2006, in association with HAPPINET and S·D·P Music courtesy of Sony Music Publishing

© 2007 Maiko Haaaan!!! Film Partners

Hula GirlsNineteen sixty-five. A time of transition, revolution and change. The el-ders of a sleepy mining town in northern Japan see no other way of life than toiling in the coal mines, the main source of prosperity for their sleepy lives. The younger generation is itching for what’s beyond the dirt and dust, especially with the news of massive layoffs at the mines. The only hope to save the town is to attract tourists through a gimmicky upstart Hawaiian cultural center and resort, despite the overwhelming skepticism toward the idea of building a tropical paradise in the middle of snowy mountains. Tensions ensue as the traditionalist miners are con-vinced that a tourist center would steal jobs, not create them.Enter Madoka Hirayama (Yasuko Matsuyuki), a down-and-out big city dancer with a penchant for hula, who reluctantly accepts the task of train-ing the daughters of the local miners as the center’s main attraction. High school students Kimiko (Yu Aoi) and Sanae (Eri Tokunaga) energetically volunteer and quickly excel in the art of hula despite the fact that they must keep their dancing a secret from their strict, mine-supporting par-ents. As the amateur hula troupe attracts more members and the two strong-willed girls excel, will they be able to save the town and the liveli-hoods of those they love? Hula Girls is based on the true story of the Joban Coal Mine community and the birth of the Joban Hawaiian Center (now known as Spa Resort Hawaiians). This heartwarming, engaging story is a great family flick. It’s no wonder this movie won the Japan Film Award (the Japanese equivalent of the Academy Awards) for Best Picture!

Maiko Haaaan!!!Kimihiko Onizuka (Sadao Abe) is your typical, albeit eccentric, office drone. The one thing that sets him apart is his all-consuming obsession with geisha and maiko (geisha apprentices). His girlfriend, Fujiko (Kou Shibasaki), is madly in love with him, but her affection is one-sided; as soon as Kimihiko accepts a transfer to a dream job in Kyoto, he mercilessly dumps her and sets his sights on a glamorous new life spent relaxing with saké while viewing geisha performances.Kimihiko’s eager plans to cavort with those of the floating world come to a screeching halt because he has no one to formally introduce him to the geisha community, as per custom. His last hope, in true salaryman samurai style, is to desperately prove his worth to his company in order to convince the geisha-pro CEO to let him come along on his teahouse visits. Meanwhile, the heartbroken Fujiko stumbles her way to Kyoto and enrolls in a geisha training school in an angry attempt to win Kimihiko back. As she soon debuts as the hottest maiko on the scene, she finds that she may have some competition among her fellow geisha as her former beau is causing many hearts to flutter.This zany, colorful movie will keep you in hysterics between Abe’s Jerry Lewis-esque character acting and Shibasaki’s exaggerated physical comedy. The beau-tiful cinematography adds a dimension of reality to a Japanese subculture that few understand and even fewer see.

Lighthearted drama


© 2008 ICHI Film Partners. Licensed by FUNimation® Productions, Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

© 2008 Shinobi: Heart under Blade Film Partners. Licensed by FUNimation® Productions, Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

Ichi is an updated retelling of the classic Japanese tale Zatoichi The Blind Samurai with the pro-tagonist cast as a beautiful young woman. Ichi (Haruka Ayase), a blind shamisen player, roams the rolling countryside in search of a certain someone. In her travels, she is often threatened but never harmed as she is enchantingly swift with her sword. After saving the life of bumbling samurai Toma Fujihira (Takao Osawa), Ichi finds herself caught in the middle of a turf war between the keepers of a sleepy inn town and a group of outlaw thugs. Toma grows increasingly enthralled with Ichi’s mysterious talent and dedication to her mission, but backs away as she learns that the thug leader may have the secret she has been searching for.Beauty is found at every turn in this bewitching tale. The sword work is wonderfully choreo-graphed and gracefully executed so that even though this is a work of fantasy in storyline, it is quite realistic in action. Ayase steals the screen in her graceful take on a classic Japanese role.

Star-crossed lovers from rival ninja clans are pitted against each other as Tokugawa Ieyasu decides it’s better to have these magical fighters at each other’s throats than his. But the love of Gennosuke ( Joe Odagiri) and Oboro (Yukie Nakama) is not as easy to manipulate as Romeo and Juliet’s. While the Bard chose a dramatic double-suicide to make his point, Shinobi direc-tor Ten Shimoyama opts to have his lovers kick butt and take names. As Gennosuke and Oboro dispatch their enemies one after the other in colorful, well-choreographed displays of martial arts mixed with magical powers, we sense that the two lovers will face off at some point and have to decide whether their love or the fate of their communities will sway their hearts. The ending has some twists that would make the Bard proud. It’s a fantastic story fused with clas-sical tragic elements.

Ichi

Adventure romance

Shinobi: Heart under Blade


A. “Ichi” x 1 B. “Hula Girl” x 2 C. “Maiko Haaaan!!!” x 2

© 2007 HAPPILY EVER AFTER Film Partners.Film Partners

What does it mean to have a happy life? Often-times, one’s happiness is another’s distress. Sa-chie’s (Miki Nakatani) life is fairly unremarkable. Her mother abandoned her shortly after she was born and her father was arrested for fraud when she was a teenager. Now an adult, her one small source of happiness is her boyfriend Isao (Hi-roshi Abe). Much to the chagrin of her friends, Isao gambles away Sachie’s meager savings and

Happily Ever AfterDark romantic comedy

trashes her shoddy apartment at the slightest provocation. He seems like the lover from hell, but for some reason Sachie continues to shower him with homemade meals and her undying af-fection.After Isao betrays her trust for the seemingly millionth time, Sachie eventually hits a break-ing point as he continues his reckless behav-ior. She gives him an ultimatum: straighten

up or their relationship is over. But before Isao can prove himself, Sachie is put in danger. The couple’s history is relayed against the backdrop of Isao’s panic, and Sachie’s friends finally begin to realize that perhaps he really is good enough for her.This story, based on a best-selling comic loved throughout Japan, tackles the questions of why we love and what we will do for it.

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LifestyleBy Julian Waters

MOVIES FASHION PLACES & MORE

© Furin-Oka

PLACE Fuurin-Oka, A touch of Japanese Serenity on Bainbridge IslandFounded in 1999, Fuurin-Oka is a Japanese guesthouse built on beautiful Bainbridge Is-land. The decor and furnishings complete with shoji screens, tatami mats and traditional Japa-nese soaking tub offer a peaceful atmosphere. Fuurin-Oka was originally built by Bainbridge Island Architect Ron Konzak, who passed away last year, and his wife Mickey Molnaire. Ron and Mickey had a fondness for Japan and decid-ed to build a ryokan guesthouse in their back-yard. Current owner Ann Borwick purchased the house in 2004 and after a few modifications, has been running the guesthouse since. Visitors in the summer and fall months can wander around the small orchard and help themselves to quince, figs, pears and champagne grapes. Due to the fragile decor and furnishing, Fuurin-

Oka is an adult only guesthouse. The cost is $185, which includes an American-style organic breakfast and all taxes and fees. More information can be found on their website: www.futonandbreakfast.com/Fuurin-Oka/Welcome.html

CAR Itasha — Japan’s Otaku Car FetishWhen obsessed manga and anime lovers blend with auto enthusiasts, itasha is the result. Itasha (痛車), which literally translates to “pain-mobile,” is the term coined when Japanese auto enthusiasts cover their cars with images, most often characters from anime, manga and video games. Why the name “pain-mobile?” Itasha fans know this kind of car does not attract girls, but they can not resist the temptation anyway — painful! The trend began a few years ago and is showing no sign of slowing down. The cars are sometimes painted, but most often are covered with high-resolution vinyl decals. A high-quality

weatherproof vinyl decal that’s 500 sq. millimeters typically costs $1,200-1,500 in Japan. Obayas-hi Factory of Tokyo, which customizes autos, told us that the trend is steadily growing and has expanded to motor-cycles and bicycles. The industry has grown to the point where “mooks” (magazine/books) are being printed showcas-ing extensively custom-ized vehicles. Some car owners will actually hire professional artists to recreate their favorite character. It seems the itasha fanatics have end-less imaginations when it comes to tricking out

DRINK Morimoto Soba AleSoba is Japanese buckwheat that is usually eat-en in noodle form. Rogue Ale, a microbrewery in Ashland, Oregon, produces and distributes an ale brewed from soba: Morimoto Soba Ale. When Masaharu Morimoto of Iron Chef fame approached Rogue Ales with the idea of making a beer with buckwheat, or soba, Rogue jumped at the chance. While the initial brew released in 2003 was meant for the Japan market, several years ago, the brewery began distributing it in the US. The soba ale won a gold medal in the 2005 World Beer Championships. The folks at Rogue point out that soba is not a grain, but a member of the rhubarb family, which means it’s practically fat free. For more information about this unique beer, visit www.rogue.com/beers/morimoto-soba-ale.php

MUSIC Japan NiteJapan Nite is the name of the US tour of Japanese in-die bands that is held every spring. In 2010, five bands joined the tour and per-formed in NY, Cambridge, Chicago, San Fransisco, LA and Seattle. The Seattle show

was performed at the High Drive in Fremont. Missed this year’s concerts? Keep your eyes on their myspace page for next year’s schedule: www.myspace.com/japannite

©Japan Nite

© Obayashi Factory

© Rogue

© Fuurin-Oka


Exploding on the American scene via Tokyo, Miyavi is the hottest Japanese rock artist to tour the US this year. Looking like an anime character brought to life, Miyavi is as exciting to see as he is to listen to, and that is saying a lot. He is an artist who has an incredible pres-ence both on stage and behind the camera. There is no denying that Miyavi is a phenomenal guitarist, while often displaying the sickest rhythm guitar slapping ever seen. His hit single “Survive” is climbing the Japanese charts and features solid riffs and a tight tempo that yields an amazing track. Filled with raw talent, his unique style and adven-turous approach to music make him a must-see in concert, a view which is being echoed repeatedly as his tour sells out all over the world.

Miyavi spent a few minutes with IBUKI magazine for an exclu-sive interview! Interviewed by English Cartier.

IBUKI: Where do you call home now?Miyavi TOKYO the static city of Japan.IBUKI: When did you realize that making music was your des-

tiny? was there a point in your life when you knew that “this is it”?

Miyavi The moment I touched the guitar for the first time.IBUKI: When did you buy your first guitar and do you remember

the feeling you had at that moment?Miyavi Yeah, I was like... wow! I can see myself on stage with the

spotlight shining on me in front of a huge crowd.IBUKI: Fans have seen your videos on YouTube such as Selfish

Love and others where you slap your guitar like a drum-mer without missing a beat. Do you play the drums or other instruments?

Miyavi Sometimes I play the drum. but NOT professional. I used to play the SHAMISEN (Japanese traditional guitar) just a lil bit.

IBUKI: I read that your NEO TOKYO SAMURAI BLACK WORLD TOUR is a huge success and the fans are really feeling you. I am sure you will have the same reception here in Seattle and Portland. Are you at all surprised with the love and outstanding support that fans outside of Ja-pan are giving you on your tour?

Miyavi Definitely, its completely amazing indeed you know. When I first started receiving all these responses, I couldn’t even believe that there were already so many fan bases all over the world. and now I feel more responsible as an art-ist from Japan.

IBUKI: Is this your longest tour so far, in terms of the number of cities you will have played and what will be the count when you are done?

Miyavi Yup, but, sorry I don’t know the exact number. Anyway there is only one thing i can say “I ROCK OUT EVERY CITY!”

MUSIC Tokyo Unleashes Miyavi

IBUKI: You have a very cool style, hair, clothes, makeup — It is something American fans seem to instantly be hooked on even before they hear you tear into your guitar. Hav-ing such visual charisma on stage, you would seem to be a natural to acting. I know you have starred in the movie Oresama. Can fans look for you on the big screen any time in the near future?

Miyavi Of course. if there is a big sponsor (kiddin), an oppor-tunity.

IBUKI: If you could name one Japanese artist and one American artist who you think you would enjoy working with in the future, who would that be?

Miyavi YOSHIDA brothers & Fieldy (KORN)IBUKI: Thank you so much for taking the time to talk with us!Miyavi You are totally welcome, looking forward to letting you

feel my music out there!

MIYAVI: NEO TOKYO SAMURAI BLACK WORLD TOUR 2010Seattle, WA Event Date: Friday, June 18, 2010 at 8:00 pm Facility: Showbox at the MarketPortland, OR Event Date: Saturday, June 19, 2010 at 8:00 pm Facility: Roseland Theater


MIYAVI — NEO TOKYO SAMURAI BLACK WORLD TOUR 2010Japanese rock star performs in Seattle and Portland

When: June 18th 8pm (Seattle) June 19th 8pm (Portland)Where Showbox at the Market (Seattle) Roseland Theater (Portland)

Great news for Visual-kei and J-rock lovers: World famous rock star Miyavi will be perform-ing in Seattle and Portland in June. Don’t miss your chance to see one of Japan’s most popular artists!

EVENTS

Local News and Events

NEWS

SHOCHU AOYAMA ANIME TOKYO TOFU SHABU-SHABU TENPURA SUKIYAKI SUSHI NABE OTAKU UMESHU GINZA MAIKO IZAKAYA RAMEN PONZU DASHI MANGA

Saké-Food Pairing Event Presented by IBUKIYour quest for saké begins here

When: July 10th 2010, 2-4pmWhere: Issian Japanese Stonegrill, 1618 N 45th St, Seattle, WA Admission: $32 Includes saké tasting, food and lecture.Call 206-575-6815 or Email [email protected] to reserve your seats. (Do not contact the restaurant.)

IBUKI presents its Saké-Food Pairing Event at the Japanese izaka-ya restaurant Issian. Learn the basics of saké with Brian Clark, saké specialist of Uwajimaya, and try up to 15 types of saké paired with Issian’s authentic izakaya dishes. For this event, we will also invite Japanese pâtissier Setsuko. Try her yummy desserts with premium saké. Learn more about saké and experience the wide array of food that saké can be enjoyed with. All attendees will be seated. For more information visit,http://ibukimagazine.com/event

Fleeting Beauty: Japanese Woodblock PrintsOn display at Seattle Asian Art Museum (SAAM)

When: Through July 4th 2010Where: Seattle Asian Art Museum (SAAM) in Volunteer Park

SAAM is now exhibiting an exceptional collection of prints from Japan’s most renowned artists of ukiyo-e, or “pictures of the floating world.” “Fleeting Beauty: Japanese Woodblock Prints” includes evocative works by the artists Harunobu, Utamaro, Hokusai, Hiroshige and more. More than sixty works from the Mary and Allan Kollar collection — many of which are promised gifts to the museum — represent the pulsating urban culture of Edo (Tokyo), Japan. Images of allur-ing women, dramatic kabuki actors and

jewellike landscapes spotlight the stylish, lyrical and, at times, sensa-tional swagger of Edo-period culture.

The 4th International MANGA AwardAccepting entries until May 31st, 2010

The International MANGA Award was estab-lished to share Japanese pop culture and to help promote understanding of Japan. It was created to honor manga artists who have contributed to the promotion of manga overseas. The Golden Prize of the 4th International MANGA Award

will be given to the best manga from all the entries, and three dis-tinguished works will receive the Silver Prize. In addition, the Japan

Foundation will invite the prize winners to Japan to attend the award ceremony. They will also meet with Japanese manga artists and visit publishing companies in Japan. For more information, visit http://manga-award.jp/. Applications need to be sent to your local consulate office. In the Seattle and Portland areas, mail them to:Consulate-General of Japan in SeattleCulture and Information Section601 Union Street, Suite #500, Seattle, WA 98101

Business Luncheon with Jim Foster, Director of Corporate Affairs, Microsoft Japan

Japan relations in the “cloud”: a new partnership in building the

Internet economy?

When: May 14th, 12pmWhere : Davis Wright Tremaine LLP, 201 3rd Ave #2200, Seattle.Admission: $25 for JAS Members, $35 for Non-Members (includes Japanese obento lunch, tea, coffee and water)

Join this business luncheon with Jim Foster, director for corporate affairs for Microsoft in Tokyo, Japan, and a vice president of the American Chamber of Commerce in Japan. He recently led a coali-tion of 20 of the top global ICT companies in developing a white paper offering recommendations on steps Japan should take to realize the full potential of the emerging global Internet economy and calling for an Internet economy dialogue between the US and Japan.


NEWLYOPENED

NEXT ISSUE

SHOCHU AOYAMA ANIME TOKYO TOFU SHABU-SHABU TENPURA SUKIYAKI SUSHI

Coming March 10th

Look for our March/April issue distributed at Sakura-Con and the Japan Cultural Festival as well as most fine

Japanese restaurants, stores and schools.

NEXT ISSUE

SHOCHU AOYAMA ANIME TOKYO TOFU SHABU-SHABU TENPURA SUKIYAKI SUSHI SAKURA OISHII UMAMI TAIKO KYOTO SAKE SASHIMI SYOYU KAISEKI

NABE OTAKU UMESHU GINZA MAIKO IZAKAYA RAMEN PONZU DASHI MANGA

Coming July 10th

Look for our July / August issue distributed at most fine Japanese restaurants, stores and schools.

Dozo Café — Factoria, BellevueNew ramen restaurant near Factoria in Bellevue! Ramen, the Japanese style Chinese noodle that is very popular in Japan, has come to Factoria. Dozo Café is a collaboration of Japanese owner chef Taka and Chinese chef Lin, and together they serve authentic Japanese-style ramen. They make their homemade soup broth from scratch using vegetables, meat, bones and spices — spending half a day to prepare. This labor results in clean yet flavorful soup. No MSG is used in their dishes. They have variety of ramen. A good dish to start with is their soy-sauce ramen, topped with homemade sliced barbecue pork, soy-sauce-flavored egg, Japanese fish cake, spinach, marinated bamboo shoots and sprouts. This is the most common style of Japanese ramen. They also have miso ramen and tonkotsu ramen, which are also orthodox Japanese dishes. If you are in the mood for a spicy dish, give tan-tan men (担担麺) a try. The combination of sesame-oil-flavored soup and the pork topping is quite addictive. Chef Taka says tan-tan men is the most popular among his American patrons. Dozo Café is a must-try place for an Eastsider who wants to explore a mainstay of Japanese cuisine.Located at 3720 Factoria Blvd SE, Bellevue | Tel: (425) 644-8899

Samurai Noodle — University DistrictPopular ramen shop Samurai Noodle, located inside of Uwajimaya Village, has expanded to the University District. The new shop has most menu items from the original shop including their famous tonkotsu ramen. Their new location is much larger and serves cold Sapporo draft beer! Located at 4138 University Way NE, Seattle Tel: (206) 547-1774

Soy-sauce Ramen is the most typical Japanese style Ramen

Tan-tan men with spicy sesame oil flavor

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Ibuki Magazine 04/24/10 Letter size

ibuki magazine vol.05 may & june 2010

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