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MATERIALS: F 120 x 20mm recycled tongue and

groove floor boards

F 60 x 20mm skirting

F 40 x 10mm strapping and corner boxes

F PVA glue

F 50mm panel pins

F 30mm panel pins

F 2 x 100mm brass butt hinge and screws to match

F 2 x brass handles

F Brass chain

F 2 x eye hooks

F Danish oil

TOOLS: F Bench saw

F Jigsaw

F Belt sander

F Hammer

F Square

F Pencil

F Battery drill

F 2.5mm drill bit

F Mitre saw or mitre box

F Paint brush

F Hand plane

CHESTHOW TO BUILD A

TREASURE

WHAT YOU’LL NEEDTake this into store with you to make sure you get everything in one trip. For this project the following materials and equipment are required:

J Now make the packers to go behind the hinge on the box. Cut a 20mm thick piece of timber to approximately 120mm x 35mm. Sit in place, put the hinge on top and mark around the edge of the packer and hinge screw holes. This is so that you can see where not to screw the packer in place. Pre-drill your holes, then glue and screw the packer to the box. Wipe off any excess glue. Screw the hinge to the packer through the pre-marked holes.

JOpen the lid and fix in the eye screws, one to the base and one to the lid. Attach the chain in-between these two eye screws.

J Fit the handles to the sides of the box using screws.

J To finish, use an orbital sander with 80 grit then 120 grit and soften any sharp edges.

JWe then applied a Danish oil but you can choose any stain, varnish or paint to create the look you want. Just follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It’s a good idea to remove the handles when you apply your finish and screw back into place when it’s dry.

Family heirlooms are often the special things that remind us of our past. Building this Treasure Chest will not only provide a handy place to store all types of things, it will also add a personal item of furniture to your home that will likely be treasured for years!

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Limitation of LiabilityThis project planner has been produced to provide basic information and our experienced staff are available to answer any questions you may have. Because this planner is general in nature, neither your Mitre 10 supplier nor their staff are responsible for the application of these design principles in any particular case, as the contents of this brochure may need to be modified for the particular site and circumstances.Mitre 10 is not responsible for the quality of work carried out on the goods by the consumer and is not responsible for the design or construction of any structure in which the goods are incorporated.Where applicable consumers should ensure that they comply with The New Zealand Building Code and/or Local Body Bylaws in respect of any such structures.Consumers are advised to call a qualified tradesman such as a builder, electrician or plumber where expert services are required.Mitre 10 will not be liable for any consequential loss howsoever arising from the use of goods sold, nor for any loss caused by defective or inadequate structures in which goods are incorporated.

STEP BY STEP PROCESS

Box J For this treasure chest, we have decided to make the box 800 x 450mm. This is a standard size for a chest.

J Start by pre-cutting all the tongue and groove timber to length: six front and back boards at 800mm, six side boards at 450mm and four base boards at 800mm. Then use an orbital sander to sand all the boards down to at least a 120 grit finish.

J Assemble the first layer of the box using panel pins and PVA glue to join one front, one back and two side boards together making sure the tongue is facing upwards on all sides. Before inserting the panel pins, pre-drill holes for them. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth. Once constructed, measure the box diagonals to check the frame is square and the measurements are the same, adjust as necessary. Then turn the frame upside down and start on the base.

Base J Take the four base boards and cut the tongue off one board, this will ensure the boards sit flush with the outside edge of the box. Put into place and fix these boards to the bottom of the first layer with 50mm panel pins and PVA glue. Pre-drill the holes for the pins before fixing.

J Next, build the remaining two layers of the box. Follow the same process as the first layer. Before you assemble the top layer, remove the tongue on all sides. Fix in place by using PVA glue in-between all tongue and groove joins then stack on top of each other.

Skirting J To smarten up the box you can add skirting. To do this, measure the length and width of the box and add 20mm to each of these measurements. Cut the 60 x 20mm skirting to these measurements. Once cut, hold the front pieces of skirting in place, mark 10mm from each end and cut a mitre using a drop saw or mitre box. Use this piece to mark the remaining mitres on the other sides and then cut. Secure in place with PVA glue at the mitres and on the back of the skirting and insert brass head screws to finish. You should pre-drill the holes for the screws before inserting. Take off any excess PVA glue with a damp cloth.

Lid

J Begin by checking the internal dimensions of the box by measuring from front to back. Add 6mm to this measurement to allow 3mm clearance front and back. Cut two pieces of tongue and groove to this length then remove the tongue on both. Measure lengthways and mark the midway point, then measure widthways and mark 35mm up from the edge of the boards. Insert pins at the three marks and using a thin flexible piece of timber bend a curve from the 35mm marks to the full height centre point of the board and scribe an arch (see image 1). Remove the pins, clamp both boards together and use a jigsaw to cut out the scribed curve. These pieces are for the side panels of your lid.

J Then cut your front and back lid panels: 35 x 806mm. Nail and glue these panels to the lid side panels to create the frame of the lid. Remember to pre-drill the holes for your nails.

J Now you can start on the slats. Using a bench saw, start cutting your slats to go on top of the lid. They should be 35mm wide. To calculate the length you need to measure the thickness of your lid side panels (they should be 12mm), add 12mm onto each side and add this to the internal width (806mm): 806+24 = 830mm external dimension.

J The first slat will need to have its top edge cut to a 24° angle to ensure it sits flush. For the remaining slats, once cut to length, you will need to use a bench saw to undercut the edges with a 1.5-2.5° angle so that the slats fit snugly. Join the slats to the curved side panels with PVA glue and 50mm panel pins (pre-drilled).

Mitre 10 Handy Hints:• In this project we have used recycled timber

floor boards - the thickness is 20mm. Ensure you measure the thickness of the boards you use and make any changes needed to build this project successfully.

Mitre 10 Handy Hints:• Always pre-drill timber before any nails or

screws are inserted.

IMAGE 1

FINISHING OFF JOnce the lid is complete you need to add corner boxes to help hold all three layers together. Place the lid on the box and measure the distance between the top of the skirting and the lid and then subtract 3mm from this. Cut the corner boxes to this length. Secure to the box using three brass screws per side and PVA glue (see image 2).

J To attach the lid to the box, screw hinges to the back of the lid approximately 150mm in from the edges. Make sure you have the right length screws so that the ends don’t poke through into your box.

IMAGE 2