Hong Kong Passport

Jefferson Global Seminars

Paul Forster (Adjunct Associate Professor) Program Director (Global Learning)

Your Mission There’s one way to visit Hong Kong – hit the tourist sites and go bar hopping Lan Kwai Fung and leave with the Hong Kong lite experience. And then there’s the better way to visit Hong Kong and leave with insight into a different culture. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, it is explore some popular and off-the-beaten path and learn something about real Hong Kong. In this challenge, we ask you to play sociologist and anthropologist and non-judgmentally explore the excitement and strangeness of Hong Kong. When things feel strange, instead of criticizing and judging, ask yourself why do Hong Kongers do what they do? What assumptions and biases in your own experience make you feel that this is strange? Then you’ll not only learn about Hong Kong but you’ll also learn something about your own world views. And that is the real secret of travel. Writer George Santayana writes, “There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the familiar to the unfamiliar; it keeps the mind nimble; it kills prejudice, and it fosters humor.” Rules To play this game we need picture verification (as creative as you like) of each site visit. Those with most site visits wins. Because it is always fun to travel with a partner, and some of these places will be a bit hard to find without someone who knows the local terrain, we highly recommend you to find a local travel mate. You get one additional point if you have a Hong Kong travel buddy. Passport Locations 1. Wang Fu Dumplings

Eat dumplings! In Hong Kong the best things are found in small places. For dumplings head to Wang Fu restaurant where you can find awesome Beijing dumplings and noodles for about $60HKD (about 7 USD). Try the cucumber salad and tomato and egg dumplings (only after 2pm). Did you know that the use of chopsticks started in China about 5,000 years ago? Do you know the story about how chopsticks were invented? Remember not to stand your chopsticks in your bowl of rice. That

resembles incense sticks at funerals and is bad etiquette!

65 Wellington Street, near Central MTR Exit D2

2. Nan Lian Gardens

Hong Kong is primarily atheist, with 64% of residents following no religion. There are about a million Buddhist and a million Taoists in Hong Kong’s 7.1 million. The Tian Tin Buddha (the “big” Buddha) at Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is one of the largest in the world.

Visit Nan Lian Gardens in Diamond Hill, an oasis away from the crowds. Every tree, rock, and pond have been placed according to strict rules of the Tang Dynasty period (618-907AD). Right across the street is

the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery and Buddhist temple. Not a single nail was used in its construction. There is also a very nice vegetarian restaurant inside the gardens if you wish to stop for a bite but note there is a minimum charge. It is located just outside the Diamond Hill MTR station. It’s become popular so avoid weekends.

3. Sheung Wan

Sheung Wan is one of the oldest sections of Hong Kong and some of the oldest buildings in Hong Kong are found in this area although it is rapidly developing with boutique hotels for mainland tourists. The British occupation of Hong Kong in 1842 was at Possession Street (which used to be waterfront!). Visit Des Voeux Road West and Bonham Street and take a picture with the herbs drying on the sidewalk. Guess how much a parking space costs in Sheung Wan. If you guess close to USD 250K you’re about right. The closest MTR is Sheung Wan station.

4. Dr. Sun Yat Sen

Dr. Sun Yat Sen is celebrated as one the fathers of the revolutions that shaped modern China. He was the first president of the Republic of China in 1912 after the abdication of the last Emperor Puyi ending two thousand years of autocratic rule. His legacy is respected on both sides of the Taiwan Strait. He spent nine years in Hong Kong studying

from his secondary school to his medical degree. Visit the Pak Tsz Lane Park on the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Trail constructed for the 2011 centennial of the 1911 Chinese revolution. It is located between Sheung Wan and Central MTR stations.

5. Take the Tram!

The electric trams on Hong Kong island make up the world’s largest remaining double decker tram fleet, in operation since 1904. About 160 cars operate up and down the island with two antique trams still in operation. While electric trams have been phased out worldwide, they operate without pollution inside the city. The longest tram ride is about 80 minutes and will take you from Shau Kei Wan to Kennedy Town with a change at Western Market. You’ll see a lot of the North part of Hong Kong island along the way. As you’re riding, ask yourself

how you think dense urban environments shape people’s sense of personal space, privacy, emotions and relationship to the natural environment. We’re all the same, but different.

6. Eat Dessert!

Living in small spaces makes eating out one of Hong Kong’s favorite pastimes. Honeymoon Desserts is a Sai Kung local success story. After opening its first store in Sai Kung in 1995 just down from HKUST it now has over 200 shops across China, Indonesia and Singapore. Visit any of the stores in Hong Kong. A favorite is mango and sago with ice cream. Take the minibus to Sai Kung town from campus and it’s on the main road into town.

Honeymoon Dessert, 10 Po Tung Rd, Sai Kung

7. Go to the Races!

Go see a horse race at Happy Valley racecourse! Named Happy Valley as a cemetery area for those dying from malaria in the Hong Kong swamps over 150 years ago it is now an upper income residential area. The racecourse was built in 1845 for the entertainment of the British. It is now one of two racetracks used by the Hong Kong Jockey Club. The HKJC is the largest taxpayer in Hong Kong and the largest philanthropy. Gambling is very popular in Hong Kong. Some attribute the 12% tax rate in part to the huge contributions of the JKJC. Races are usually held on Wednesday nights and open to the public. Basic admission is 10HKD for standing room at the racetrack level. You might want to have a tonic water. Did you know that gin and tonic was popular amongst British expatriates because the quinine in tonic water was a cure for malaria?

8. Victoria Peak

Take the tram (or hike!) to the Peak. The Peak tram - a funicular counterbalanced tram to be precise - was once a marvel of engineering, running 1.4km from Admiralty up to Victoria

Peak. The Garden Road Peak Tram Lower terminus is on Garden Road near St. John’s Cathedral. A return tram ticket with access to the Skydeck is HKD80. You’re looking over one of the most spectacular skylines in the world. The engineering required to build the city was phenomenal. Moving mountains to reclaim land, skyscrapers and tunneling subway systems keep this busy city moving. You’re also overlooking some of the most expensive properties in Hong Kong. For a modest USD60M you might afford a home on the Peak. Severn road is the most expensive street on the planet. The price of property and the wealth of Hong Kong are intertwined. Hong Kong is by far the highest density high income urban area in the world.

If you want to hike up to the Peak, follow Old Peak Road which starts just above the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens gardens at the junction of Albany Road and Robinson Road. You can find this easily on Google maps. Take water.

9. Hong Kong Park

Designing greenspace inside a dense urban environment is difficult. Hong Kong Park is an 8 hectare oasis amidst the busy-ness of the city. The bird conservatory is particularly nice on

a hot day. With competition for development, how much should be set aside for open spaces within a city? About 25% of the land area in Hong Kong is developed and 40% of Hong Kong’s 1,104 square kilometers is set aside for country parks or nature reserves.

10. Egg Tarts!

More food! Eat a Tai Cheong bakery egg tart. These are considered to be the best in Hong Kong if not on the planet. Egg custard tarts were created in Hong Kong in the 1940’s by tea houses called cha chaan teng’s. The egg tart was listed as number 16 on CNN’s list of the top 50 foods in the world. There are Tai Cheong bakeries all over Hong Kong but there is one at 35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central just in case you can’t find one. You might want to visit a cha chaan teng yourself.

11. Go to the Beach!

Visit Long Ke Wan beach in Sai Kung country park. If you think Hong Kong is all about skyscrapers and urban life then you’re in for a surprise. Tai Long Wan is a magical white sand beach deep inside the park. Take the Sai Kung minibus from HKUST to the Sai Kung Bus terminus. From there you can take a green taxi or the NR29 minibus to Sai Wan Pavilion terminal (about 30 minutes). From there follow the signs to Sai Wan and Long Ke Wan beach. Take SPF 50+, a hat, lots of water and lunch!

There are many other nice beaches to visit. You might also want to try Treo Beach, near HKUST. To get there from HKUST, take the 792m bus or the minibus towards Sai Kung and get off at Pak Sha Wan. From there, at the pier take a sampan boat for a 10 minute ride to Trio Beach. Bring all the usual beach gear and stay inside the shark nets as there have been recent attacks and sightings of leopard sharks.

12. Star Ferry

The Star Ferry is not just a boat ride, it’s part of Hong Kong history. In 1966 a 5 cent increase in the ferry prices caused 27 year old So Sau Chung to go on a hunger strike and fire public anger against the British. The ferry at the time was one of the main links to cross the harbor. His arrest led to three days of rioting, police raids and the arrest and sentencing of hundreds in the

1966 Hong Kong riots.

In the last 30 years, the harbor ride has shrunk by half a mile owing to land reclamation. As a result the tides are higher and the ride a bit rockier than it used to be. You take the ferry from either the island side at Central or Wan Chai, or on the Kowloon side from Tsim Sha Tsui. The ride has shrunk from 40 minutes to about 8 minutes, but if you take the sailing just before 8pm you can catch the Symphony of Lights show. It’s HKD2.5 on the upper deck. Go twice!

13. Stanley Market

A trip to Stanley and Shek O beach go well together. The town of Stanley is home to many expatriates, Stanley market, good food and some history. Stanley Fort was the last stand of the British and Canadians in the Battle of Hong Kong. Occupied by the Japanese in 1941 and returned to the British after WWII it now houses the People’s Liberation Army. You might run into a concert in Stanley Plaza.

From HKUST the best way to Stanley is minibus to Hang Hau; MTR to Chai Wan; 16M or 16X minibus to Stanley. Leave about 1.5 hrs to get there.

14. Hike the Hills

Many people leave Hong Kong thinking it is is only about busy-ness and crowds. Go for a hike over High Junk Peak down to Clear Water Bay beach or any of the other hikes in the Sai Kung West Country Park near HKUST. At one time Hong Kong was covered with semi-evergreen tropical rainforest, but was logged many centuries ago. Go with friends, take lots of water and your camera. It’s an easy three hours starting from a point fairly close to HKUST.

Instructions are at: http://www.hkcrystal.com/hiking/OtherWalks/clearwaterbaywalk.htm.

If you are an ardent hiker, then the Maclehose Trail is for you. It’s 100km are broken into short stages and most are fairly easily accessible. For more information: http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/see-do/great-outdoors/hikes/geological-landscapes.jsp.

15. Wetlands Park

The wetlands park is located in the northern part of Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, Hong Kong. Unlike natural wetlands you might be used to, this is a designed wetlands area within sight of the city. It is an important stopover point for birds migrating from Russia to Australia. It also serves to promote an environmental ethic to city dwellers. You might notice some traditional Confucianist and Doaist influences in the design of the park drawing upon themes of creating harmony with nature.

To get there see detailed instructions on their website, www.wetlandpark.gov.hk.

16. Mongkok

Mongkok, now in the heart of Kowloon, used to be on the waterfront. “Mong kok”, means “crowded corner” which is quite appropriate. Known for its small stores, markets and shopping, it is also one of the densest urban spot on the planet at 130,000 people per square kilometer. While you might already be used to density wherever you’re from, it is also the perfect place for people watching. If you’re into technology find the Mongkok Computer Centre where inventory is kept in the ceiling. If you’re not claustrophobic and want to see true population density go on a Sunday afternoon. While you’re there you might want to think about what density means for such basics as logistics and replenishment as well as health. Mong Kok was once the heartland for triad gangs and the British feared to tread there. Triads still are there but tourists are safe.

17. Ocean Park or Disneyland

Ocean Park and Disneyland are two of HK’s main tourist attractions. While both might be of interest to you, if you’ve been to another Disneyland, this writer would strongly recommend a visit to Ocean Park. Ocean Park, run by Southern Californian, Tom Mehrmann, is a non-profit focused on entertainment and the environment. It has received awards for be one of the world’s best theme parks. The HUGE aquarium is very nice on a hot day. The park also has a panda facility for endangered giant pandas on loan from the mainland. Once again,

people watching is a must. You might want to observe how mainland families, Hong Kong families and teenagers behave differently than in the US. Wrong, or just different?

For transport there, check Ocean Park’s website at www.oceanpark.com.hk. The easiest is to take a bus from Admiralty Station. Leave most of a day for the park. Avoid weekends!

18. Wong Tai Sin Temple

Taoism is indigenous religion to China, with about a million followers in Hong Kong. It stresses simplicity and harmony with nature, which, in a money driven city may seem somewhat incongruous. The most famous Taoist work is the Tao De Ching, written by Lauzi in 500BC. There are about 300 temples of which

one of the more notable (and busiest) is at Wong Tai Sin, not too far away from HKUST, right next to the Wong Tai Sin MTR station. Avoid the weekend if you can.

~The End~