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Historic Early Tudor Costuming

Early Tudor Timeframe ! 1495-1509 – Reign of Henry VII ! 1590-1547 – Reign of Henry VIII

Finding your Costume ! Portraits and Picture ! Movies

Commoners – Pieter Bruegel Lady Jane – 1986

Court – Hans Holbein the Younger The Other Bolyn Girl – 2008

Garment Pieces COMMONERS COURT

Women Men Women Men Smock Brais Smock Brais Kirtle Shirt Petticoat Shirt Gown Doublet Kirtle Doublet Hose Hose Farthingale Hose Head cover Coat/Gown Gown Gown Belt Belt Foresleeves Belt Shoes Hat Hose Hat Shoes Ribbon/belt Shoes English Gable or

French Hood

Shoes

Fabrics COMMONERS COURT Fabrics Colors Fabrics Colors

Linen – Middle to heavy weight

“Off” black (green or brown undertone)

Branches and geometric designs

True black Violet/Purple

Wool – Flannel, worsted or melton

White/Off-white Blue

Wool – Flannel, worsted or melton

Red Gold and Silver metallic

Leather Red Leather White Fur (fox, rabbit, lamb) Velvet Rich saturated colors

Fur

Silk (avoid slubbed silk such as dupoini)

No paisley

Notions Accessories ! Buttons ! Purses and Pouches

! Hooks and Eyes ! Jewelry

! Straight Pins o Rings

! Boning o Necklaces

! Trim o Broaches

! Adornment o Earrings

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Fabrics and resources: http://www.historicenterprises.com/ - medieval style clothing and accessories

http://www.museumreplicas.com/- Farthingale (hoop)

http://www.fabrics-store.com/ - Linen at GOOD prices

www.renaissancefabrics.net - Wool fabric

www.thewoolconnection.com - Wool fabric

https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/ Patterns and notions, including boning and pins

Tudor Ladies Gown - RH601 - Tudor Lady's Gown & Kirtle - The perfect

lady's gown for the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody"

Mary Tudor. Full size paper patterns for Early Tudor Lady's Gown based on

pictorial references and the work of Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies

in their book The Tudor Tailor. Supportive kirtle and overgown included in

package. Two sleeve styles, two undersleeves, and trained or untrained skirts

with or without front split. Fits busts 30!"-48" and waists 23"-41". All sizes

included in one envelope. Embellishment suggestions included.

Common GownRH603 - Early Tudor Commonwoman's Outfit - The perfect

common woman's outfit for the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and

"Bloody" Mary Tudor. Full size paper patterns for Early Tudor

commonwoman's outfit including front- or back-lacing kirtle, smock, cap, apron,

and choice of two styles of partlet.

RH606 - Early Tudor Common Man's Outfit - The perfect commoner's outfit for

the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody" Mary Tudor. This

outfit was worn by common men across Europe and was particularly prevalent in

the works of Flemish and Netherlandish artists. Full size paper patterns for Early

Tudor common man's outfit including shirt, front- or side-lacing doublet, jerkin,

hosen and trousers.

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RH604 - Early Tudor Noble Man's Outfit - The perfect gentleman's gown for the

Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, and "Bloody" Mary

Tudor.

Full size paper patterns for Early Tudor nobleman's gown and jerkin.

RH602 - Tudor Lady's Skivvies - The perfect lady's underpinnings for the Northern

Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody" Mary Tudor. Full size paper

patterns for Early Tudor Lady's Skivvies based on pictorial references and the work

of Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies in their book The Tudor Tailor.

Petticote, farthingale, and high-neck or scoop-neck smock included in pattern. Also

included are a common woman's apron and three versions of the partlet &em; square

pin-on, square tied, and rounded caplet. Fits busts 30!"-48" and waists 23"-41". All

sizes included in one envelope. Embellishment suggestions included.

RH605 - Early Tudor Noble Man's Skivvies - The perfect genlteman's underclothes

for the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody" Mary Tudor. Full

size paper patterns for Early Tudor nobleman's shirt, doublet and hosen for wear

under nobleman's jerkin and gown (RH604

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www.tudortailor.com - Patterns and notions, including buttons

English or gable hood

This style of headdress was fashionable from the 1520s to the 1540s. Evidence from effigies suggests that it continued to be worn by gentlewomen, rather less fashionably, through the 1550s and 1560s. The pattern is based on information gathered from primary sources including: Figure on a monument to Sir Walter Devereux and his two wives (1537) in St. John’s Church, Stowe-by-Chartley, Staffordshire. Two views of a woman wearing an English Hood by Hans Holbein, c.1528-30, British Museum. Portrait of Jane Seymour, by Hans Holbein, 1537. Royal Cabinet of Paintings, Mauritshuis and a wire stiffener for a hood (inventory no.Z640*), Museum of London.

Henrician bonnet kit

This style of bonnet was fashionable wear for gentlemen from the late fifteenth century through to the 1540s. Our kit contains everything you need to make one bonnet inc luding: Pattern, instructions, black velvet, buckram, domet, wire and silk 'sarcenet' for lining. Jewels and feather are not inc luded.

The pattern and materials have been based on documentary and pictorial sources inc luding: Portrait of Henry VIII c.1536, Holbein, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid. Wooden model for a medal bearing a portrait of Charles de Solier, lord of Morette c1530, Christoph Weiditz, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. ‘… A bonnet of black velvet and a brooch on it, cost 5 marks.’ Inventory of Dame Agnes Hungerford, 1523. ‘… A bonnet of velvet 7s 6d.’ Amongst items of clothing stolen from Anthony Strelley, gentleman, 1543, Records of the Borough of Nottingham

Early Tudor women's gowns

Several styles suitable for middle class women during the first half of the sixteenth century. Based on documentary descriptions, brasses, effigies and paintings, including: Tomb effigies of two unknown ladies of c1520 at St Andrew’s Church, Prestwold, Charnwood, Leicestershire. Brass monument to T. Pownder and wife, 1525, St Mary Quay, Ipswich. Figures in The Wedding Dance in the Open Air, 1566, Pieter Bruegel. The Detriot Institute of Arts, Detriot and A Woman Seated on a Settle with Four Children, c1540, Holbein, The British Museum, London.

Henrician Man's gown, doublet, jerkin and hose

The patterns in this pack are based on original sources including: doublets and venetians in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620, London: Macmillan; Hose found at Kloster Alpirsbach, Germany c1490-1529; Figures from The Embarkation at Dover and The Field of the Cloth of Gold, artist unknown, The Royal Collection; Henry VIII, after

Holbein, c1536, Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool.

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Henrician Lady's petticoat, French kirtle and gown

The patterns in this pack are based on original sources including: a pair of bodies c1598 in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620, London: Macmillan; Mary Tudor's wardrobe accounts 1556 (E101/427/11); Elizabeth I wardrobe accounts in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620; Two views of a woman wearing an English Hood, Hans Holbein c1528-30, British Museum; Portrait of Jane Seymour, Hans Holbein 1537, Royal Cabinet of Paintings, Mauritshuis; and a portrait of Catherine Parr att. Master John c1545, National Portrait Gallery, London.

French hoods

Several styles based on primary sources including: Figures on a monument to Sir George Vernon and his two wives (1567) in All Saints Church, Bakewell, Derbyshire; Figures on a monument to Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland (1543) in St Mary's Church, Bottesford, Leicestershire; Portrait of Catherine Parr, attributed to Master John c1545. National Portrait Gallery, London; Electrotype of a medal of Mary I after Jacopo da Trezzo, c1555, National Portrait Gallery, London.

Tudor girl's kirtles & petticoats

The pack contains several styles which are suitable for ordinary girls for most of the 16th century. The patterns are based on original sources, including: a bodice worn under a gown by Eleanora of Toledo (died 1562) in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620, London: Macmillan, 102; Thomasine Petre's accounts (1555); a detail from The field of the cloth of gold (undated), artist unknown, Royal Collection (Hampton Court Palace); and a detail from The St Bartholomew's day massacre (1572) by Francois

Dubois, Lausanne.

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SHOES www.nmia.com/~bohemond/index.html - Bohemond - Shoes and pouches Mary Rose Shipwreck Tudor Shoe

Based on shoes found in the Tudor era shipwreck, the Mary Rose, and on many shoes pictured in "Stepping through Time," The Mary Rose shoe is representative of men's shoes worn about 1530 to 1600 and is the perfect Tudor or renaissance shoe. The Mary Rose was Henry VIII's favorite war ship which was lost in 1545.

Landsknecht Shoe Found in "Stepping Through Time" by Olaf Goubitz, Carol van Driel-Murry and Willy Groenman-van Waateringe this is the quintessential Landsknechts shoe worn by Swiss & German mercenaries that became a fashion sensation and worn all over Europe. The shoe dates commonly from 1480 to 1600 during the late medieval period and into the renaissance. Common names for this shoe are bear paw (if the shoe was cut and slashed), cow mouth or cowmouth, Kuhmaul, and

bear paw shoe. This shoe is very similar to those worn by the Swiss Guard at the Vatican. The Landsknecht shoe is also worn by Henry VIII in several paintings.

15th Century Pouch "Annunciation Triptych" Gallery The 15th century medieval belt pouch is taken from the "Annunciation Triptych" illumination. This pouch shows up often in other 15th century illumination. In the "Annunciation Triptych" the purse is adorned with two moon shaped fittings, has a buckle, and fashionably displays a bollock knife or dagger in a scabbard tucked behind the pouch. The buckle is from Museum of London's Dress

Accessories. This seems to be the purse or pouch of a Nobleman and is worn by a man. http://revival.us/

These shoes, based on a simplified version of a 14th century low boot, has been crafted to what we think is a fine compromise between authenticity, function and cost. Ours are constructed for sturdy wear and are available in red, brown, black and forest green in full sizes from Ladies 5 - 10 to Men's 6-14.