Gun careGuide

Tips and valuable information about gun care

BALLISTOL GMBH

Ballistolweg 1D-84168 AhamGermany

Telefon +49 (0) 8744 9699-0Telefax +49 (0) 8744 9699-96export@ballistol.de

www.ballistol.eu

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BALLISTOL – The brand for people, animals and all things mechanical.

The Ballistol gun care guide for hunters, sports marksmen and collectors, contains plenty of information and tips for cleaning and maintaining your guns in optimal fashion as well as lots of useful advice and interesting background information.

RELIABLESINCE 1904

UNIQUE

Gun careGuide

Tips and valuable information about gun care

WELCOME Page 7 CONTRIBUTORS Page 9 – 11

CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INFORMATION Page 12 – 15 A BROAD FIELD

The right individual gun care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Precision emphasized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 The ammunition is decisive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 For reliability’s sake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

CHAPTER 2 DESIGNATIONS Page 16 – 29 THE MOST IMPORTANT TERMS AND COMPONENTS

Lands and grooves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Fingerprints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Projectile deposits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Smooth shooting and zeroing-in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 “Cleaning to death” – a myth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Corrosion/rust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Obturation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Oil shot/cleaning shot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Polygonal rifling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Lubricant ceramic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Teflon® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Tombac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Resinification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Breech mechanisms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

CHAPTER 3 UTENSILS Page 30 – 37 THE MOST IMPORTANT CLEANING TOOLS

Cleaning rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Mobile cleaning assistants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Gun tow, felt cleaner and patches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cleaning assistants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Chemical detergents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Gun oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Cases and gun holders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

CONTENTS

4 Contents

CHAPTER 4 CHECKING Page 38 – 47 THE INDIVIDUAL CLEAN

Time for care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Everything in its place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Soiling in view . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 According to the ammunition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Lead ammunition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Lead-free ammunition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Molybdenum disulphide-coated projectiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Projectiles with bismuth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Sintered and soft iron ammunition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Projectiles with tin coating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Black powder ammunition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

CHAPTER 5 CLEANING Page 48 – 65 THE RIGHT ORDER

Pre-cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Simple cleaning/Normal barrel cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Intensive cleaning/stubborn soiling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Use Robla Solo MIL correctly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Barrel cleaning with Ballistol Black Powder Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Cleaning gas-operated guns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Cleaning air pistols and rifles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Magazine cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Cleaning mechanical parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Cleaning the breech mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Cleaning in the ultrasonic bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Cleaning silencers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

CHAPTER 6 CARE Page 66 – 75 IN SHOOTING SHARP CONDITION

The browning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Touching up the browning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Stock care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Oiling and overhauling the stock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Cleaning other stock materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Cleaning optical systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Oiling the rifle sling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

Contents 5

CHAPTER 7 PROTECTING Page 76 – 79 STORAGE AND PRESERVATION

Ready for the gun cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 The gun cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Ammunition storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

APPENDIX BALLISTOL PRODUCTS Page 80 – 95 Ballistol Universal Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 GunCer ceramic gun oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 GunCer ceramic gun grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Gunex special gun oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Robla Solo MIL barrel cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Gun parts cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Black Powder Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Quick-Browning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Cold Degreaser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Balsin Stock Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Scherell‘s Stock Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Trap oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Silicone oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Trophy bleaching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Vaseline gun grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Silk tow Sucolin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Flax tow Sucol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Microfibre Patches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Cleaning rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Silencer cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Flex-Clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Felt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94

THE CORRECT CLEANING OF THE BARREL Page 96 – 97

BALLISTOL Page 98 – 99 The company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 The invention of Ballistol Universal Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

6 Contents

For better legibility, we refrain from gender-neutral language use in the following text, without questioning it.

Welcome 7

ESTEEMED GUN FAN,

Dear hunters, sports marksmen and gun collectors,

In this small book, we have summarized our knowledge and experience related to the topic of gun care for you so as to pass on to you all the tips and tricks that you require as a gun collector in order to clean and look after your guns in optimal fashion.

Whether you are the owner of a short or long gun and whether you take it with you when going through your hunting ground, on the firing range, in competitions or for professional purposes, your gun should always be reliable, precise and well-kept. The visual impression of the gun plays an important role – and not just for collectors. Therefore, correct and careful gun cleaning and care is essential for all gun owners.

To gather and compile the information contained in this book, we have availed ourselves of the expertise and many years of experience of several experts with varying backgrounds. In addition to the BALLISTOL owners, chemist Dr Christian Zettler and hunter and active sports marksman An-dreas Zettler, these also include the well-known and renowned gunsmith Peter Abel, sports marksman and multiple world champion Roman Hau-ber, hunter Wolfgang Forstenaicher and an experienced professional ar-mour-bearer whose name we are not permitted to mention here.

We hope that you will find many useful tips and plenty of interesting background information in our BALLISTOL Gun Care Guide that will help you in cleaning and looking after your gun.

We wish you a lot of fun browsing and of course always good luck and good hunting.

Your BALLISTOL team

PRECISE

Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans, maintains and protects all types of � rearms. Reliable and proven from the barrel over the breech to the stock. The right solution for your gun. All BALLISTOL products can be found on:

www.ballistol.eu /ballistol

UNIVERSALOIL

BICYCLECARE

ANIMALCARE

BODYCARE

GUNCARE

DEFENCESPRAYSTING-FREE

TECHNICALPRODUCTS

BALLISTOL – The brand for people, animals and all things mechanical.

PRECISEPROTECTIVE

UNERRING

MAINTENANCE

SAFE

Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans, Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans, maintains and protects all types of � rearms. Reliable and proven from the barrel over the breech to the stock. The right solution for your gun. All BALLISTOL products can be found on:

www.ballistol.eu

Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans,

Contributors 9

MAY WE PRESENT ... Your are now holding a new version of our “Small Gun Guide” that is no longer so small at all – you could say that the “Small Gun Guide” has ripe-ned. Much research and discussion was conducted; some areas were elaborated in detail and others only touched upon due to their complexity – in such a large topic as the world of guns and gun care, a claim to com-pleteness would surely be presumptuous. However, we are sure that our new Gun Care Guide is a really good source of knowledge for beginners in which all the professionals and “old hands” among you will also find a great deal of interesting information.

Therefore, at this point, we would like to say a big thank-you to the follow-ing people for their collaboration on our new Gun Care Guide.

PRECISE

Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans, maintains and protects all types of � rearms. Reliable and proven from the barrel over the breech to the stock. The right solution for your gun. All BALLISTOL products can be found on:

www.ballistol.eu /ballistol

UNIVERSALOIL

BICYCLECARE

ANIMALCARE

BODYCARE

GUNCARE

DEFENCESPRAYSTING-FREE

TECHNICALPRODUCTS

BALLISTOL – The brand for people, animals and all things mechanical.

PRECISEPROTECTIVE

UNERRING

MAINTENANCE

SAFE

Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans, Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans, maintains and protects all types of � rearms. Reliable and proven from the barrel over the breech to the stock. The right solution for your gun. All BALLISTOL products can be found on:

www.ballistol.eu

Gun care by BALLISTOL – lubricates, cleans,

10 Contributors

Dr Christian ZettlerTechnical director, graduate chemist

Many of the chemical details in this gun guide come from Dr Christian Zettler, the Tech-nical Director of F.W. KLEVER GmbH and PRO Ballistol GmbH. The graduate chemist, born in Bergisch-Gladbach in 1973, has been responsible for production, research and development at BALLISTOL for more than 15 years. His high quality awareness in the development of oils, auxiliary materials and gun care prod-ucts is outstanding.

Andreas ZettlerCommercial director, hunter and sports marksman

As Commercial Director of BALLISTOL GmbH and F.W. KLEVER GmbH, business manager Andreas Zettler, born in Bergisch-Gladbach in 1975, is responsible for the areas of marketing and sales at BALLIS-TOL. He has been a member of the shooting club since he was 13, followed the traditional route via pneumatic guns to large calibre guns, success-fully obtained his shooting licence in Bavaria in 2015 and has since been an active and enthusiastic hunter. Much of his experience in the field has made its way into the gun guide.

Peter AbelGunsmith, graduate engineer

Abel, from Frankfurt, born in 1948, is a graduate engineer in the subjects of optics and precision engineering as well as a passionate gunsmith and cutler. Since 1978 he has run his own shop in an historic square in Frankfurt/Höchst. The topic of training has long been a focus of Peter Abel’s and he has hence made it his mission to pass on the experience from the field that he has acquired over the dec-ades. In 1993, he co-founded the Smith & Wesson®- Club 30 Germany, which he also led as 1st chairman for the first 10 years and influenced accordingly. He contributed his knowledge and ability from over 40 years of experi-ence in the profession to the gun guide.

Contributors 11

Roman HauberSports marksman

Professional firefighter Roman Hauber, born in Regensburg in 1966, took up large-calibre shooting in 1999 and soon thereafter came his first titles at club and district level. Par-ticularly in the DSB National and the BDMP National and International, Roman Hauber very quickly closed the gap on the top marksmen. He has been a member of the BDMP national team for more than 10 years and has won 7 world champion titles in this time. He has also been a devoted hunter since the start of 2004 and is thus superbly equipped to be a development partner and practice tester for the BALLISTOL brand. His motto is: “Clean gun shoots more X’ses”. Roman Hauber can thus be viewed as a true gun-cleaning pro.

Wolfgang ForstenaicherHunter, graduate engineer

As a practitioner in daily hunting operations, Wolfgang Forstenaicher, a graduate engineer in forest engineer-ing, provided valuable tips and suggestions for this gun guide. Born in 1975, he studied forestry at Weihen-stephan University of Applied Sciences and has worked as a ranger for the Bavarian Forestry Administration since 2004. He has been a shoot tenant of a Lower Bavarian community hunting ground and conservancy leader of the Vilsbiburg IV conservancy for over 10 years. Additional-ly, after several years in the hunting advisory board, he has occupied the office of 2nd deputy government hunting advisor since 2017.

Professional armour- bearers

Members of special operation forces of the police and the military were available to us for information regarding the special needs of professional armour-bearers; however, unfortunately we are not permitted to name these persons here.

PRECISIONCLEANING

REGULAR

12 General information

CHAPTER 1

GENERAL INFORMATION

A BROAD FIELD

Gun cleaning is a topic in which there are countless different tips, opin-ions and myths. Reasons for the large number of different points of view include the different uses of guns and the corresponding requirements. It goes without saying that professional armour-bearers look after their guns differently to collectors and sports marksmen differently to hunters.

Therefore, the first chapter of the gun guide deals with a few of the basic factors that are of interest to all and that play a superordinate role in the broad field of the topics of gun cleaning and maintenance.

General information 13

THE RIGHT INDIVIDUAL GUN CARE

How a gun is cleaned and maintained depends primarily on how it is used. What is right for the hunter must not necessarily also be the op-timal solution for the sports marksman. Both the intensity and the fre-quency of gun cleaning are heavily dependent on the gun type, use and ultimately also on the user’s own requirements and expectations of the gun. While for sports marksmen the topic of precision plays the main role, the most important thing in use of a gun by the authorities is not nec-essarily accuracy to the millimetre, but rather extremely high reliability. While the gun of an active sports marksman is subject to significantly higher shot capacity, a hunter’s gun is often exposed to considerably more intense and worse weather conditions.

As much as the requirements of the various groups of users differ, in the end the common denominator is likely to be that each gun owner would like to use a gun that is as well-maintained, precise and, above all, reliable as possible.

14 General information

PRECISION EMPHASIZED

When it comes to precision, the barrel is considered to be the most impor-tant component of a gun to be cleaned. With each shot fired, projectile deposits and tiny powder and combustion residues remain there.

Here, the torsional vibrations, called flexing vibra-tions or barrel vibrations, also play an important role. These rotational vibrations of the barrel material, which arise as a result

of the heavy load on the lands due to the rotational movement of the projectile around its own axis, normally ensure a muzzle departure angle that is always the same.

However, should the torsional vibrations change due to soiling of the lands and grooves, this of course, in turn, impedes the flight path.

THE AMMUNITION IS DECISIVE

With each shot, metal deposits from the projectiles are also deposited in the barrel – be it lead, copper, zinc, brass, tombac or molybdenum disulphide – as well as plas-

tic residues, depending on the ammunition. As a result of these deposits, the precision of the gun deteriorates increasingly, as the increased resist-ance in the barrel impacts both on the speed of the projectile and on its spin and the overall ballistics. At the same time, the deposits in the barrel also cause the gas pressure upon shooting to increase – a likewise unwel-come concomitant.

Therefore, it is extremely important to clean the gun according to the ammunition used in each case in order to ensure that the soiling is com-pletely removed and that the gun is not damaged when cleaned.

General information 15

FOR RELIABILITY’S SAKE

Another negative aspect of the projectile and combustion residues in the barrel is that these sometimes bind condensation water due to tempera-ture fluctuations – in the case, for example, of high humidity or incorrect storage in a non-dry safe.

Thus, rust perforation can form – small, inconspicuous corrosion sites, which, however, develop much more significantly in terms of depth than is outwardly recognisable. As a result, the precision of the gun steadily decreases.

It is not just the projectile and its flight path that are influenced by res-idues and soiling, but also the mechanics of the gun. This can lead to many problems – from malfunctions such as a blocking breech or firing pin to a magazine getting stuck.

Therefore, regular and careful cleaning of the gun is essential if the preci-sion, reliability and value of the gun are to be maintained.

FUNCTIONDEFINITION

CONTEXT

16 Designations

CHAPTER 2

DESIGNATIONS

THE MOST IMPORTANT TERMS AND COMPONENTS

Those who want to clean their gun properly should be familiar with the relevant components and their functions. Gun owners’ knowledge can vary heavily. Additionally, some designations differ depending on the gun type or the region.

Therefore, in this chapter, we have put together for you a small overview of the most important gun components and terms – with brief descriptions of their functions and peculiarities.

cross-section of Barrel

�at Barrel pulled Barrel

A = Land diameterB = Groove diameter

B

A

polygonal Barrel

Designations 17

LANDS AND GROOVES

In order that a projectile obtains the necessary spin when fired so as to develop a stable, stagger-free flight path, “spiral-shaped” indentations – actually referred to as helix-shaped – are worked into the interior of a rifled barrel. These are called lands and grooves – the grooves are the slots; accordingly, the lands are the projecting areas between the grooves. The internal diameter of a barrel can be indicated as a groove diameter (marking B) or groove calibre or as a land diameter (marking A) or land cal-ibre. The groove diameter designates the distance between two grooves located opposite to each other; the land diameter indicates the distance between to lands located opposite to each other. Hence, the groove diam-eter is always greater than the land diameter.

18 Designations

The diameter of the projectile – which is often echoed by the calibre – mostly corresponds to the groove diameter. When the gun is fired, the projectile is slightly squeezed through the barrel and thus receives a char-acteristic cinch mark pattern, allowing it to be attributed to the corre-sponding barrel.

FINGERPRINTS

Since hand sweat has a pH value of between 4.7 and 5.75 and is thus slightly acidic, it can etch fingerprints into metallic surfaces, which is also referred to as fingerprint corrosion. Even so-called “stainless” steel can be prone to this form of etching if the metal is not correspondingly pro-tected – as “stainless” or “rustless” steel is actually better described as “rust-resistant”, since it, too, is susceptible to rust under certain condi-tions. Therefore, in the area of gun care in particular it is recommended to protect the metallic parts of the gun in order to prevent this form of corrosion.

However, a distinction should be made here between alkaline gun oils, such as Ballistol Universal Oil, which actually chemically neutralizes this hand sweat, and other products that merely dilute the hand sweat in hopes of making hands sweat less adverse. Although a few products advertise themselves with statements such as “neutralizes hand sweat”, they are not chemically capable of duing so, since they are not alkaline oils but rather neutral oils (e.g. Brunox, SchleTek, FlunaTec).

PROJECTILE DEPOSITS

To enable the projectiles to adapt to the barrel and absorb the spin, as well as not to damage the barrel, they are made using soft metals such as soft iron, bronze (softer than brass), brass, copper, zinc or lead and have a suitable coating. Therefore, when a gun is fired, metal residues of the softer metal of the projectile remain in the barrel. These are designated as projectile deposits.

Designations 19

SMOOTH SHOOTING AND ZEROING-IN

Both smooth shooting and zeroing are actually completely normal things. However, unfortunately they are often neglected – even though both are sometimes very important. Although so-called smooth shooting is not absolutely necessary, it is beneficial later when cleaning the barrel. This is because the surface in the barrel interior is slightly rough due to the type of production. This is more pronounced with industrially produced barrels than for example with high-quality match barrels. This roughness can be reduced through smooth shooting. The smoother the barrel is, the fewer opportunities there are for dirt ad-hesion and the easier it will be to clean the barrel later. With jacketed projectiles in particular, smooth shooting is profitable preparatory work; if other ammunition, such as .22 LFB (pure greased lead projectiles), is selected, it is not necessary.

To shoot a new barrel smooth, the barrel is chemically cleaned before the first shot. Residues from production, official fire and zeroing are thus removed. Robla Solo MIL Barrel Cleaner is outstanding for this. After this cleaning step, the first shot can be fired, after which the barrel is immediately cleaned again – a piece of felt moistened or soaked with Robla Solo MIL is completely sufficient for this. This procedure, shot and subsequent cleaning is repeated 5 times.

2 shots are now fired and the barrel is again chemically cleaned with a moistened or soaked piece of felt. This step, too, is repeated 5 times. In the next step, the barrel is cleaned after 5 shots, then after 10 shots. To make completely sure, a further step with 15 shots can be performed. Then at the latest, the new barrel is optimally shot smooth and can be cleaned more easily in future.

Whether it is necessary to zero in the gun or perform a test shot after cleaning depends on a wide variety of factors; however, the following ap-plies: whenever the gunsight was removed for the cleaning, it should be zeroed in. Whenever the user has the feeling that the point of impact has changed, a test shot should be performed.

Expert tip – competitionIn competitions, marksmen often have only a limited number of test shots, sometimes none at all. There-fore, in order to avoid nasty surprises in competitions, marksmen should be sure to fire 5–10 test shots at their home firing range af-ter the cleaning and/or before competitions.

20 Designations

“CLEANING TO DEATH” – A MYTH

Nearly every gun owner knows stories from his environment about guns that were “cleaned to death” by their owners or previous owners. But are these reports really true or are they fairytales?

The fact is that regularly cleaning and maintaining a well-functioning gun is essential and cannot damage the gun, provided it is performed properly. This is exactly where the root of the problem often lies: if un-suitable cleaning agents are used to clean the gun, the gun can, of course, be damaged. And because the person who causes the damage does not realize his mistake, the myth of “cleaning to death” might not actually be a myth after all.

The most frequent mistakes include, for instance, the use of a wire or steel brush, which can damage the lands and grooves due to the hard-ness levels of the bristles. For this reason, steel brushes should not be used. Rather, only soft brushes made of brass or bronze (e.g. from Raetz, Eyselein or Niebling) that exactly match the corresponding calibre should be used. These may be used in one direction only, ideally from the cham-ber to the muzzle. In the case of revolvers or closed systems, cleaning must be performed from the muzzle to the chamber. Therefore, particular care is necessary here when using the cleaning rod, so as not to damage the muzzle.

Tow, cotton or microfibre patches or felt cleaner and intensive cleaner felt with delicate brass fibre are ideal for the cleaning. It should also be noted here that these materials should always be pulled through completely and then removed and the cleaning should then be repeated from the same side. If this is not done in this way, the dirt will only be distributed instead of removed. Often, it is recommended to twist several pieces of cleaning felt together. In this way, the contact surface of the pieces of felt is enlarged.Another source of mistakes that can cause permanent damage to the barrel is cheap cleaning rods made of bright steel or with a defective plas-tic coating. Here, the hard, bare metal can, of course, damage the barrel – especially the muzzle area (which is particularly important for accura-

Designations 21

cy) and the chamber. It should also be ensured that the handle of the cleaning rod has a ball bearing or friction bearing mounted and can turn with the lands and grooves during the cleaning. Otherwise it will scratch across the lands, damaging their edges.

CORROSION/RUST

Corrosion (from Lat. corrodere, “to gnaw away”) refers to the reaction of a material with its environment, which leads to a measurable change to the material.

The best known form of metal corrosion is rust, i.e. the oxidation of iron. Rust arises when iron or steel oxidizes with oxygen in the presence of water. Unlike the protective oxide layer of many metallic materials such as chrome, aluminium or zinc, rust forms a fixed, rough layer on iron that provides no protection from further corrosion. Rust has no business on or with in a gun.

Rust perforation, also known as pitting, refers to corrosion sites that seem small and mostly point-shaped on the surface but that expand in a trough-shape in terms of depth. In other words, the actual corrosion damage is significantly greater than can be recognised on the surface. Therefore, rust perforation frequently can go unnoticed for long periods of time.

22 Designations

OBTURATION

The term obturation describes the behaviour of a cartridge case in the chamber when the gun is fired. The pressure of the burning propellant ensures that the material of the cartridge case nestles up against the wall of the chamber and thus acts as a gas-tight cap at the rear end of the gun barrel. However, for optimal obturation the chamber must be completely free of oil and grease.

OIL SHOT/CLEANING SHOT

An oil shot or cleaning shot is the first shot from a gun barrel that has not been de-oiled. Due to the oil film that the projectile pushes on its way through the barrel, the normal point of impact is influenced to a

greater or lesser extent. How sensible or harmful such a cleaning shot is remains disputed. In general, the gun bar-rel should be drawn through dry before use. However, this also causes the rust protection to be removed, leading to slight flash rust, depending on use and the weather situa-tion – for example, when a hunter sits on watch for an ex-tended period. If the post-treatment after using the gun is forgotten, this can lead to rust perforation. Nevertheless, it cannot, of course, be recommended to a hunter that he perform a cleaning shot; this, after all, would mean that he frightens the game with his oil shot.

Since each gun behaves differently and the need for an oil shot is also linked to the individual use of the gun, there is no universally valid answer to the question as to whether an oil shot should be per-formed or not.

However, every marksman should know the deviation of the point of impact due to the oil shot for his guns. Hence, they should purposefully test them at the firing range. This is because the deviation of the point of impact can be reproduced under the same conditions – i.e. with the

Deadly accurate with GunCerA test on the topic of oil shot carried out by the magazine

Caliber in 2014 showed that the deviations of the

point of impact when using Ballistol GunCer were in some

cases markedly smaller than with the rival products (of

Fluna Tec, SchleTek).

Designations 23

same type of cleaning and minimal oil use. A renowned Lower Bavarian gunsmith has carried out detailed tests on this.

However, before the first shot, the barrel should definitely be drawn through dry again to prevent too many oil residues in the barrel when the cleaning shot is performed leading to problems – even to long-term bar-rel damage. In the case of a gun that is looked after in normal fashion, a wafer-thin film of oil remains in the barrel despite it being drawn through dry and the barrel is thus protected sufficiently from flash rust. However, it must be ensured that the chamber is dry. Not only can oil and grease in the chamber influence the point of impact but also lead to a much increased load on the breech due to a lack of obturation.

POLYGONAL RIFLING

The cross-section of a polygonal rifling (derived from the Ancient Greek words “polys” = much and “gonia” = angle) corresponds to a rounded polygon that moves in a spirally through the entire barrel in order to give the projectiles the necessary rotation that ensures a stable flight path. Polygonal riflings offer numerous advantages over rifled barrels with lands and grooves. They are significantly more gas-tight, provide for a higher muzzle speed, have a longer life expectancy and are considerably easier to clean. Due to the smaller notch effect, in most cases they are also more break-proof than rifled barrels, which, due to their design, virtually have a “predetermined breaking point” in the groove profile (English Webley Revolvers are an example of this).

However, polygonal riflings transfer only smaller rifling groove forces (spin) and are therefore found predominantly in hand guns but also in large-calibre barrel guns. Projectiles shot with a polygonal rifling do not display any notching but – depending on the barrel version – a type of rounded polygon, such as a six-edged profile may.

To begin with, polygonal riflings were used for military purposes only. Now, however, they can also be found in high-quality handguns (e.g.

24 Designations

Heckler & Koch, Glock, SIG Sauer) as well as hunting guns (e.g. Repetierer Heym SR 20).

LUBRICANT CERAMIC

Not all ceramic is the same. There are over a thousand different variants in the family of ceramic materials. Even though many of them are known for their abrasive properties, there is a small sub-group of approximate-ly 20 variants that, in contrast, have lubricating properties. In the case of one of these variants, the ceramic particles are particularly suitable in shape and size to smooth the metal surface, to reduce the frictional re-sistance and thus to support the lubricating oil outstandingly in its func-tion. Additionally, this ceramic variant offers further positive properties such as major high-temperature and pressure resistance. An additional advantage is that ceramic does not leave behind any dirt residues such as copper or graphite. Thus, lubricant ceramic is a lubricant that has a very wide temperature use range and that also offers very good emergency running properties.

TEFLON®

Teflon® is mostly associated with the well-known, positive property that, as a coating, it ensures a non-adhesive surface. Yet as good as the thought of an anti-adhesion coating in the interior of the barrel on which no more metal or combustion deposits can settle sounds, the use of Teflon®-con-taining means for cleaning or gun maintenance has risks.

In the chamber area and in the barrel, impact temperatures of up to 3,000 °C develop upon ignition. At these high temperatures, the fluo-rine-containing polymer contained in Teflon dissolves and small traces of hydrogen fluoride (also called hydrofluoric acid) form – one of the most aggressive chemical compounds there are. Hydrofluoric acid is extremely reactive in combination with moisture and can thus trigger the feared rust perforation in the barrel area, which can ruin the barrel.

Designations 25

Therefore, you should be extremely careful with Teflon®-containing lu-bricants and cleaning agents. If at all, these should be used for the me-chanics only, although here, too, they offer no recognizable advantage compared to reliable gun oils such as Ballistol Universal Oil and GunCer.

Teflon® is a protected trademark of The Chemours Company F.C., L.L.C and denotes the agent polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

TOMBAC

Brass alloys with a copper proportion of over 67% are known as tombac or gold brass. The word tombac is derived from the Malaysian word temba-ga, meaning copper, or the Indian word tumbaga, meaning gold copper. In some cases, this alloy was used to plate iron-jacketed projectiles such as surplus ammunition for rifles and pistols, as, thanks to their softer jacket, these projectiles adapt better to the lands and grooves of a rifled barrel, have a higher gliding effect and are significantly more gentle on the bar-rel.

RESINIFICATION

The problem of resinification is repeatedly heard about, where greases or oils dry out in time, becoming highly viscous and sticky. This handicap results in the reversal of the desired effect. Oiled mechanics do not, for instance function better, but rather they function worse, in some cases, they even limit the functionality. With firearms, this effect can even lead to malfunctions, which can be dangerous for the user.

However, the chemical process that triggers this resinification arises only in the case of herbal greases and oils that are polyunsaturated. With these, low-quality raw materials are often used that trigger the chemical process of resinification through exposure to air and light.

26 Designations

In the process, the double bonds present in the molecular structure break up and reassemble. Macromolecules thus form, which become steadily larger and thus also increasingly viscosity. The result: a resinous mass de-velops that blocks the mechanics, is difficult to remove and, in the worst case scenario, can even render the gun unusable.

Only in the case of stock oil is this resinification process desired, as the pores of the wood are thus closed.Thanks to their composition, high-quality oils – especially synthetic and mineral oils – cannot resinify, as their molecular structure is not destroyed by atmospheric oxygen.

Designations 27

Ballistol Universal Oil consists largely of medicinal white oil, meaning that this resinification phenomenon cannot arise in the first place. With Ballistol Universal Oil, only the alcohols that come from natural fermen-tation evaporate due to exposure to air and light. A vaseline-type protec-tive film remains, which, however, is neither highly viscous nor sticky and cannot therefore restrict the functionality in any way. The lubricating ef-fect remains.

Therefore, WD40, Caramba and other simple oils that can be purchased at DIY stores should definitely not be used for gun maintenance. Due to the high proportion of petroleum or other solvents they contain, ac-ceptable cleaning properties can be achieved, but they are thus also very fleeting and offer no long-term protection – accordingly, users must re-oil frequently. Another disadvantage is the easily irritating substances they often contain. Gun parts made of wood or leather can be damaged – as well as the user’s own skin can be.

Hence, there are many good reasons to opt for high-quality gun oils such as Ballistol Universal Oil, Gunex or GunCer, which do not, because they cannot resinify. So instead of using low-quality products that can cause damage, entail high costs for repairs and replacing individual compo-nents and that often have to be used again and again, it is worth it for you to place your trust in BALLISTOL for effective protecting agents and lubricants for all areas.

Nevertheless, if you use high-quality oils from BALLISTOL, you should of course ensure that you do not use too much oil, as an excessively oiled barrel or system can – especially in low temperatures – lead to problems, such as dirt coming into contact with the excess oil.

28 Designations

BREECH MECHANISMS

A breech designates the components of a breech-loader that close the barrel off to the rear to prevent the emission of propellant gases. There-fore, primarily, the breech must be stable and tight enough to withstand the pressure of these gases and enable the acceleration and emission of the projectile in the first place.

All firearms have a breech. If breeches consist of several components they are referred to as a breech mechanism, which, depending on the design of the gun, has various other functions in addition to the sealing to the rear – for example loading, firing, securing and unloading the gun. The components of such breech mechanisms and a bolt head include the fir-ing pin or the separate hammer, the firing pin spring, the extractor, the extractor hook, various firing pin or hammer safety components and nu-merous other components.

In the case of guns for round or cartridge ammunition, the breech has the task of securing the rounds or cartridges in the barrel – in this case, sealing against the escape of propellant gases is achieved by obturating the case material. However, muzzle-loading guns and revolvers also have a breech – this is the breech plug in muzzle-loading guns and the frame in revolvers. With revolvers, the sealing is also performed by obturating the cartridge case. In the process, the cylinder operates as a magazine and a chamber. The necessary stability of the chamber and the round contained therein, is ensured by the special design and by the frame of the revolver.

The most important and most widespread breech mechanisms include bolt action, rotating-bolt action, roller-delayed blowback action, blow-back action, gas-delayed blowback action, break-down action and cylin-der action. In addition to these, there are also numerous other breech mechanisms and variants.

FUNCTIONDEFINITION

CONTEXT

Designations 29

ACCESSORIESREADY TO HAND

REQUIREMENT

30 Utensils

CHAPTER 3

UTENSILS

THE MOST IMPORTANT CLEANING TOOLS

The right tools are essential for effective and thorough gun care. Depend-ing on the gun, the calibre and the ammunition, a wide variety of tools and aids must be at hand if the gun is to be cleaned and maintained prop-erly. In addition to the most important utensils, such as brushes, patches & co., there are also a few objects used for purposes other than those intended that are very helpful for cleaning guns, such as pipe cleaners, toothpicks and shish kebab skewers.

In this chapter you will find an overview of the most important equip-ment and aids that you should have to hand for cleaning your gun in ad-dition to the suitable cleaning agents.

ACCESSORIESUtensils 31

CLEANING ROD

One of the most important cleaning tools is surely the suitable cleaning rod, without which it is almost impossible to clean the barrel effectively. Unless it is used for shotguns only, the cleaning rod must have a ball-bear-ing or friction-bearing-mounted handle so that the corre-sponding cleaning utensil can turn with the grooves and lands. If this is not the case and the cleaning utensil moves over the lands and grooves, soiling will stick in the corners of the grooves and the edges of the lands will be dam-aged. Therefore, uncoated cleaning rods made of tool steel are also to be avoided, as they also cause damage in the barrel if used imprudently – especially in the particularly sensitive transition area from the chamber to the barrel, a key contributor to the precision of the gun.

Multi-part cleaning rods are recommended only to a lim-ited degree, as with these the threads can loosen or even open due to the rotation in the barrel. The cleaning rod thus would become unstable and could break at the spot in question. However, these can sometimes perform good services in cleaning loose gun barrels. Here, if the only the front part of the cleaning rod is used – without the handle – it can be pulled completely through the barrel, thus preventing the need for retracting it.

A necessary complement when using a cleaning rod is a false lock, with which damage to the transition to the chamber can be prevented. A sim-ple sleeve can also perform good services here. Use of the longitudinal stop prevents the cleaning rod from hitting against the sensitive muzzle. However, it can be used only with pieces of felt. If brushes or patches are used, the work must be performed without a longitudinal stop.

The most important features of a high-quality cleaning rod are doubt-lessly those that have a handle with a bearing and a coating, i.e. a tool

An exact matchThe cleaning rod must always match the corresponding calibre exactly. For example, a 22-inch cleaning rod fits into a 9.3 mm calibre but has no place there. In the event of higher exertion of force it would offer insuffi-cient stability and would sag. There is thus the risk that the cleaning rod will rub against the barrel and damage it.

32 Utensils

that cannot damage the barrel. The focus with the handle bearing should be on minimal bearing clearance and on its ability to run smoothly not, for instance, on its rotational speed. The actual handle should fit as well as possible in the hand so that the pressure can be transferred optimally onto the cleaning utensil.

A recommended alternative to the plastic coating is the newer cleaning rods made of carbon, a material that shows itself resistant to all cleaning liquids on the market. In addition, carbon is soft enough not to damage the barrel but at the same time is also extremely stable, allowing even the most stubborn of deposits to be removed without any problem. Another advantage relevant to hunting trips is that cleaning rods made of carbon are at least 50% lighter than spring steel versions, for example.

BRUSHES

For removing the tough soiling in the barrel, a brush made of soft met-al, such as bronze, is to be preferred, so that, on the one hand, it is hard enough to release the combustion residues, but on the other hand not so hard that it damages the barrel. For this reason, wire brushes and steel wool have no business in the barrel.

It is important that the diameter of the brushes exactly match the rele-vant calibre. If the brush’s diameter is too small, not all the soiling will be removed. If the bristles are too long, they bend backwards, do not con-cede the pressure ideally onto the inner wall of the barrel and slide over the dirt, thus failing to have the desired cleaning effect. Brushes with as dense a set of bristles as possible made of as thin wire as possible are recommended, as these are the best at removing residues.

Depending on the ammunition used and the gun, brushes with bristles sanded slightly over calibre can also be used for particularly stubborn soil-ing.

To avoid old dirt being spread in the barrel, the brushes must also be cleaned again and again. BALLISTOL products such as gun part cleaner or Ballistol Cold Degreaser are recommended for the cleaning.

At all events, however, mechanical cleaning should be performed very carefully so that the bristles do not become bent. The gun part cleaner, in particular, achieves excellent cleaning results thanks to the high pressure and the effective mix of its active agents.

Utensils 33

34 Utensils

MOBILE CLEANING ASSISTANTS

Metallic cleaning chains such as the Heckler & Koch chain or the armed forces chain are generally not recommended. If you are looking for a handy travel cleaning set for trips, a Flex-Clean cleaning set from BAL-LISTOL is the best solution. For fast de-oiling, the products BoreBlitz and BoreSnake can also be used. Above all when pulling it through, it should be ensured that the rope or cord does not make contact with the muzzle. It is also important that the cleaning cord be cleaned regularly.

GUN TOW, FELT CLEANER AND PATCHES

For effective barrel cleaning, various aids should also be ready for use, such as patches (small fuzz-free cotton or microfibre cloths) with a patch holder ( jag) that matches the calibre, gun tow (Sucol silk tow for rifle bar-rels and Sucolin hemp tow for shot barrels) as well as standard and su-per-intensive felt cleaners matching the calibre exactly, as shown in the picture, above right.

CLEANING ASSISTANTS

Since compartmentalized parts – and, in some cases, parts that are dif-ficult to access – of the gun must also be cleaned and cared for, other cleaning assistants should also be at hand, such as cotton pads, cleaning cords, woolen wipers and fuzz-free cloths. Cotton cloths are always to be preferred to those made of other materials such as microfibres, as cotton,

Utensils 35

unlike microfibre cloths, absorbs the dirt into the fibre. Normal, fuzz-free kitchen towel and tissue paper can also be used without any problems and in versatile fashion (matt side to the barrel). Additionally, a tooth-brush, pipe cleaners, dental tools made of plastic, toothpicks and shish kebab skewers are often very helpful for gun cleaning and perform good services in the case of small sites that are hard to access.

CHEMICAL DETERGENTS

When mechanical tools are used for the cleaning, only a limited cleaning result can be achieved. This result is significantly improved by combining them with the use of the right chemical detergents. Here, the list of re-quirements includes, in particular, gun oils, barrel cleaner, cold degreaser and gun part cleaner. However, it is of course necessary to select the cor-rect cleaning agent for each use – a gun oil does not replace a high-quality barrel cleaner.

It goes without saying that the correct cleaning agents are the most im-portant thing for cleaning and caring for your gun properly. If an unsuit-able agent is used, the gun can suffer; if cheap cleaners are used, not all soiling is removed and the gun loses its precision or – even worse – it becomes unusable. Therefore, you should be sure to opt for high-quality gun oils like Ballistol Universal Oil. Ballistol Universal Oil can be used for all parts of your gun – from the barrel to the breech mechanism and the magazine to the stock and the leather strap.

36 Utensils

In addition, special gun oils such as Gunex, GunCer and GunTec are also available, which, although not as versatile as Ballistol Universal Oil, have special qualities in specific areas.

Use of normal multi-functional oils is definitely not to be advised, as these can neither neutralize the acidic residues nor can they offer long-term protection for the gun. In addition, they may damage the stock wood or the leather rifle sling as well.

Attention should also be paid to the suitability of the products when it comes to chemical detergents. Some solvents and cleaning agents such as acetone or a cheap brake cleaner can attack and damage the gun mate-rials. Therefore, only suitable special cleaners should be used here –such as the gun parts cleaner from BALLISTOL – in order to achieve an optimal result. This cleaner’s extremely effective mix of active agents achieves a convincing cleaning result and thanks to the strong spray jet, soiling can easily be sprayed off, even at sites that are hard to access. Additionally, particularly stubborn soiling on surfaces and guides can also easily be cleaned mechanically using the attachable brush made of stable nylon bristles – without damaging the surfaces, e.g. when browning.

GUN OIL

There are major differences between special gun oil and off-the-shelf multi-functional oils – both with regard to ingredients and with regard to the function of the oil. A good gun oil contains selected base oils, special additives and inhibitors. Thanks to this special composition, a gun oil has unique basic functions – the so-called CLP properties.C = Cleaning The oil must be able to release and remove dirt as well as

old oil and grease. Of course, extremely good soot-releas-ing properties are of particular importance here.

L = Lubricating The oil must possess an outstanding lubricating proper-ty. A long-lasting lubricating film on the lubrication sites must be ensured under all climatic conditions, as well as in the case of high pressure. Thus, it must not volatilize.

Utensils 37

P = Protecting It must protect metal in particular from damage, wear and rust. To this end, it must spread autonomously – i.e. it must be capable of creeping – and must not stick.

No multi-functional oil from a DIY or discount store can fulfil all of these aspects, which are absolutely essential for gun care. Such products most-ly have strengths in on one of these areas but do not cover the other two. Therefore, a special gun oil like Ballistol Universal Oil is essential for clean-ing, lubricating and maintaining any gun.

CASES AND GUN HOLDERS

For safe gun cleaning, the gun must be secured. This prevents the gun from slipping off the table, ensures that all areas of the gun are easi-ly accessible and improves the cleaning results. A further advantage is when the muzzle is inclined slightly downwards to prevent oils and cleaners running back into the mechanism or the magazine well. There are several options for securing the gun that have proved successful in practice. The simplest method is a vice on a workbench, equipped with chop protectors made of felt. This form of securing the gun of-fers optimal stability and the gun is also generally located at a suita-ble height for the cleaning. Gun holders, with which long and short guns can be secured, are also highly recommended. Special range box-es are cases that not only can be used as optimal gun holders for the cleaning but also, at the same time, serve to store cleaning materials.

AMMUNITIONOPTIMAL

SPECIFIC

38 Checking

CHAPTER 4

CHECKING

THE INDIVIDUAL CLEAN

The basic steps of gun cleaning are known to all gun owners. However, there is no patented formula for the “right” way to clean a gun – instead, a supposed “right” way is influenced by many factors: the type of gun and its use, the degree of soiling and the ammunition used, to name just the most important ones. Therefore, before cleaning the gun, it is necessary first to check which work and cleaning steps are necessary and actually need to be performed.

This 4th chapter deals with this process of checking the gun and its soil-ing and precedes the actual cleaning.

Checking 39

TIME FOR CARE

Whether after a demanding hunt or a long day at the firing range – the time or desire to clean the gun as would be necessary right after its use is not always there. Nevertheless, if the user postpones cleaning and main-taining the gun until the next day in order to take sufficient time for the necessary care, it should be ensured that the gun does not suffer damage. To this end, sufficient Ballistol Universal Oil, GunCer or Gunex is put into the barrel from both sides and the gun is also wiped with some Ballistol Universal Oil from the outside. However, the user should ensure to posi-tion the gun with the barrel muzzle facing downwards and to place it in a small tray for the excess oil. Only a gun that is in good condition after maintenance may be placed in the gun cabinet with the muzzle facing upwards. The reason for this is that, otherwise, the excess, soiled oil runs into the breech and, in some cases, even into the wood and can cause damage there.

EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE

Before the detailed cleaning and maintenance of the gun is begun, all necessary preparations should be made. All cleaning utensils and the necessary BALLISTOL cleaning agents should be at hand. It is recommend-ed to spread out a soft, absorbent underlay – best case would be a special cleaning underlay made of felt.

Of course, for maintenance of your gun, it is a very good idea to use a gun cleaning box on which the gun can be secured. Alternatively, the gun can simply be placed on the cleaning underlay. Prior to this, however, the gun should be examined and its condition exactly assessed.

40 Checking

SOILING IN VIEW

Every good gun cleaning session begins with a detailed visual inspection in which it must be decided which components require which form of clean and maintenance. This begins, of course, with a look into the bar-rel – virtually the heart of the gun when it comes to accuracy. For a de-tailed visual inspection of the barrel, optical aids should be used as far as possible, such as a magnifying glass, a speculum, a magnifying angle mirror or even an endoscope. In addition, good lighting is important so as to interpret soiling in the barrel correctly, such as an LED light or a special barrel light.

Now, when looking into the barrel, the experienced gun owner can rec-ognise what types of deposits are lying there. Normally, the inner walls of the barrel glisten with a silver colour; if, however, coloured shadowing is detected, a more intensive cleaning is required. For example, yellow-ish-red deposits are due to tombac, copper or brass or, even worse, rust.

In most cases, light lead residues are difficult to detect with the naked eye, especially in the case of short guns and muzzle-loaders. Here, using a brush or chemical aids is often the only thing that will help. If a brush is used for the cleaning, underlaying a white sheet of paper is helpful for detecting lead residues; this makes the lead glitter that falls out the bar-rel easily visible. An unmistakable indication of heavy lead deposits is also the flattening of the lands and grooves in the chamber area – in this case, an extensive clean is unavoidable.

Only after a detailed visual inspection in which it is established which type and what degree of soiling there is, can the appropriate barrel clean be carried out.

In addition to the visual impression of the gun and of the interior of the barrel, a large number of other factors also play a role here, such as: when was the last time the barrel was cleaned? How often has the gun been shot since then? Above all of course, with which ammunition?

Checking 41

ACCORDING TO THE AMMUNITION

An important matter for cleaning the gun barrel effectively and yet pro-tectively is whether lead ammunition or lead-free ammunition was used, as lead residues in the barrel demand a special cleaning. However, even here there are misunderstandings, as different things are often being spoken about without it being clear and even consciously realized.

Lead ammunition refers only to projectiles made completely of lead. Ac-cordingly, lead-containing semi-jacketed bullets or full metal jackets are actually not lead ammunition because, although they have a lead core, they are coated. When it comes to lead removal in the barrel, of primary importance is whether lead comes into contact with the barrel at all and at what temperatures this occurs – as whether there can be lead deposits in the barrel and how strong these are is dependent on this.

The mere classification into lead ammunition and lead-free ammunition is not sufficient, certainly for the topic of barrel cleaning. Here, it is nec-essary to distinguish between full metal jackets and complete-jacket pro-jectiles, as even when fully jacketed ammunition is used, lead can come into contact with the barrel. The reason is that although the visible part is coated, the base of the projectile is not. Since, when firing, the highest temperatures take effect on the projectile base, the lead can also be fused with this type of fully jacketed ammunition and can settle as soiling in the chamber area as well as, above all, in the first third of the barrel. In

42 Checking

contrast to full metal jackets, complete-jacketed projectiles have a com-pletely closed projectile body, with the base sealed off by a tombac lamel-la – hence, the lead cannot be fused. The same applies to copper-coated projectiles – lead projectiles that are completely coated with a layer of copper by galvanic means.

Another special case is lead projectiles equipped with a gas rear that cov-ers only the projectile base. Here, although the ignition does not cause the lead to be fused, the projectile does leave a certain amount of lead deposits behind.

LEAD AMMUNITION

When using lead ammunition, two different types of deposits can arise: “cold lead grit” and the far more stubborn, genuine lead deposits.

“Cold lead grit” refers to soiling due to lead deposits that emerges in the case of weak ammunition with low projectile speeds, as when pneumatic guns are used, for example. No chemical cleaners are required to remove this relatively loose form of lead grit. Instead, they can be removed rela-tively quickly and easily with Ballistol Universal Oil and a cleaning brush. Additionally, a minimal lead film is sometimes desirable, as it produces a type of lubrication in the barrel.

It is different with the genuine lead deposits, which emerge when the lead projectile in the barrel is accelerated heavily and builds up additional frictional power in the process due to the spin of the grooves and lands. Here, lead projectiles sometimes heat up to temperatures to over 325 °C, the melting point of lead, causing the lead to start to melt in the barrel and to come into contact with the gun steel. The deposits that emerge are so stubborn that even with Ballistol Universal Oil, they cannot be re-moved adequately. In this case, a particularly effective solvent such as Ro-bla Solo MIL must be used in order, first of all, to solvate the lead deposits, so that, in the next step, they can be completely removed when cleaned manually with a brush. It should be noted, however, that these stubborn lead deposits mostly emerge only in the case of guns with high projectile speeds of at least 300 m/s, soft lead hardnesses and barrels with narrow

Checking 43

calibre dimensions.

LEAD-FREE AMMUNITION

Lead-free ammunition refers mostly to the heart of the projectile, that is, the projectile core. In most cases, the main components of lead-free ammunition are copper and zinc – although the principal part is always copper. If the copper proportion is 67% or over, it is referred to as tombac. If the copper proportion of the lead-free projectile is less than 67%, the alloy is called brass.

An important aspect of lead-free ammunition is the increased pressure when the bullet is forced through the barrel, which, in turn, leads to in-creased deposits in the barrel. The reason for this is that lead-free am-munition has a harder projectile core and therefore cannot be deformed as easily. This leads to greater frictional resistance when the projectile is deformed. Since lead-free projectiles are also slightly more sensitive to existing deposits in the barrel, cleaning the barrel is of greater priority if lead-free ammunition is used than if lead-containing projectiles are used. If lead-free is used, more frequent cleaning is recommended in order to ensure the precision of the gun in the long term.

In the case of around 90% of ammunition used in hunting, the projec-tile surface consists of a copper alloy. In the case of brass projectiles, the projectile deposits in the gun barrel are, in all cases, so stubborn that a special, highly effective cleaner such as Robla Solo MIL is required. In this way, the residues are solvated and subsequently removed safely with a cleaning brush and a cleaning rod.

Nickel-platinized projectiles occupy a special position when it comes to lead-free ammunition, as nickel grit cannot be dissolved chemically and must therefore be removed from the barrel mechanically. Here, a high-quality, suitable bronze brush with correspondingly dense bristles is essential.

44 Checking

MOLYBDENUM DISULPHIDE-COATED PROJECTILES

If molybdenum disulphide-coated ammunition is used, projectile depos-its in the form of a fine molybdenum dust remains in the barrel which cannot be dissolved chemically – neither with Robla Solo MIL nor with other barrel cleaners. Molybdenum is a high-strength, hard metal that is not solvated even by reducing acids such as hydrofluoric acid. Therefore, molybdenum deposits must be removed mechanically, which can be best accomplished with a bronze brush as well as patches or pieces of felt.

PROJECTILES WITH BISMUTH

With lead shot increasingly being turned away from, shot ammunition consisting of an alloyed mix of bismuth and tin is now being more com-monly used. The soiling that emerges in the barrel in the process cannot be removed with a traditional cleaning as in the case of lead shot: first solvate with an effective solvent such as Robla Solo MIL, then remove the loosened projectile deposits manually with a brush.

SINTERED AND SOFT IRON AMMUNITION

In the topic of sintered and soft iron ammunition, a distinction must be made between shotguns and rifles. Shotguns are used above all for sports shooting and require steel shot. Here, it should of course be ensured that the integrated parts – the barrel combination and the choke – are also designed for this use. If this is the case, the focus in cleaning the shotgun is on combustion residues in the barrel as well as old grease on the mobile parts. Here, it is recommended to apply a thin film of oil in the barrel after shooting so that corrosion formation due to residues of shot and powder is prevented.

Anyone who uses soft-iron-core projectiles with a rifle should consider that higher pressures arise upon projectile deformation and that these induce greater wear as would be the case with lead or copper alloys. Here, the selection of the correct cleaning agent depends on the material that lies over the soft-iron core as a coating – mostly tombac, tin or nickel. It

Checking 45

should also be taken into account that such projectiles do not offer par-ticularly good accuracy.

Before sintered or soft iron ammunition is shot, the user should make absolutely sure to check whether the barrel is also de-signed for it. Many older barrels in particu-lar are not suitable for the use of sintered and soft iron ammunition.

Due to iron abrasion – especially in the case of non-chrome-plated barrels – there is the risk of so-called contact corrosion arising. Therefore, sintered and soft iron ammunition is considered corrosion-trig-gering. Consequently, when sintered and soft iron ammunition is used, immediate and intensive cleaning as well as subsequent maintenance are required, for example with Gunex or Ballistol Universal Oil. Additionally, checking the barrel again after approximately 3–5 days is recommended.

PROJECTILES WITH TIN COATING

As tin has a very low melting point, ammunition with a tin coating leaves extremely strong projectile deposits in the barrel that require correspond-ingly frequent and thorough cleaning. So far, it has not been possible to release these deposits from tin-coated projectiles by chemical means. Since tin is a relatively brittle material and therefore easily “crumbles”, it can also be easily removed from the barrel with a suitable, high-quality bronze brush.

A special case among tin-coated projectiles is CineShot© ammunition, whose lead projectile core is coated all-round with mild steel and is also coated with a covering tin layer. Projectiles for the military and for RUAG automatic guns are identical. Even though mild steel is certainly not one of the most ideal projectile materials, there are still manufacturers who offer this type of ammunition. If CineShot© ammunition is used, it should

46 Checking

be taken into account that residues of the tin coat must be removed with the brush. In the case of similar ammunition from other manufacturers, the mild steel is partially coated with a tombac coating; residues of this ammunition can accordingly be dissolved using Robla Solo MIL.

BLACK POWDER AMMUNITION

If black powder ammunition is shot, e.g. with muz-zle-loading guns, blank-cartridge guns or flare guns, this requires a special form of cleaning. Unlike the low-smoke propelling charges of modern ammunition, very stubborn residues settle in the barrel when black powder charges are used, as blackpowder combustion produces inorganic salts, soot and other combustion products. These residues promote corrosion in the barrel far more than is the case with modern propelling charges and due to their composi-tion, they cannot be removed effectively with the “usual” organic gun oils.

Therefore, warm soapsuds are often used; however, these always present the risk of corrosion. A much better alter-native is offered by a warm Ballistol Universal Oil emul-sion – a mix of water and Ballistol Universal Oil in the ratio of 2 to 1. Not only can such an emulsion be used to clean the barrel, but is also offers effective rust protection. Black powder marksmen from the USA, in particular, swear by the mixture, which neutralizes the existing acidic com-bustion residues of the black powder and additionally provides the necessary rust protection. However, it should be taken into account that this emul-sion cannot be stored on a long-term basis; rather, it must be disposed of after the cleaning, as the existing dirt can lead to the formation of bacteria.

Surplus ammunitionAmmunition from

military inventories is referred to as surplus ammunition.

In most cases, it refers to surplus ammuni-

tion that has been decommis-sioned due to calibres that

are no longer required or their storage periods have been

surpassed.

Here, it should be noted that the projectiles have been changed and that no military

armour-piercing composite rigid ammunition is shot – this

comes under the KWKG (War Guns Control Act) and

is therefore prohibited in Germany under gun laws.

The coloured projectile tips are often a sign of military

armour-piercing composite rigid ammunition.

Checking 47

The much more effective, gentle and, above all, simple way is Ballistol Black Powder Solvent, which was developed specially for this purpose. It is available as a liquid container and as a spray that forms an active foam. Ballistol Black Powder Solvent liquid is especially suitable for use with a cleaning rod and felt cleaners.

Prudence before mercury firingToday, many an ammunition cabinet still contains projectiles with a mercury firing charge and ammunition from Eastern Europe and the Far East in which a mercury fulminate is used in the firing charge – often 9 para or surplus ammuni-tion. Such mercury firing charges leave behind an aggressive, acidic, metallic and chemical second helping (mercury, chlorate) that launches a massive attack on the barrel. This type of ammunition is mostly referred to as corrosive ammunition as well and is still available today in places. If such ammunition is used, the gun should be run through with Ballistol Universal Oil at the firing range in order to remove the rough soiling immediately. Further, a comprehensive cleaning should be performed as quickly as possible thereafter.

Although a clean with hot water and soapsuds, often recommended for this, is not generally wrong, there is the danger – as with the cleaning mentioned under “Black powder ammunition” – that the water will get into gaps in the barrel (e.g. barrel/guide rail) and thus trigger corrosion. Should water be used nevertheless, it is urgently recommended to dry the barrel in a warm temperature. A more relia-ble solution for removing the mercury fulminates and the metal deposits is Robla Solo MIL. Subsequent care with Ballistol Universal Oil is particularly sensible in this case, as it is slightly alkaline compared to other gun oils. After 3 days at the latest, another cleaning should be performed in order to remove all second-help-ing residues of the mercury firing so as to prevent rust perforation. A third check and, if necessary, a further cleaning is recommended after approximately 8–12 days. Subsequently, the gun is to be kept well-oiled and before the next use the barrel should be run through dry as always.

INTENSIVECLEAN

CAREFUL

48 Cleaning

CHAPTER 5

CLEANING

THE RIGHT ORDER

The two “big basic rules” of gun cleaning are both enlightening and easy to remember: First: “Always clean from inside to outside.”

Second: “The general cleaning comes first, then the intensive de-tailed cleaning.” However, with regard to what goes beyond these two easy-to-remember rules, there are many opinions and questions.

Therefore, in this chapter we would like to describe to you in detail all the individual steps of gun cleaning and maintenance. We want to give you a secure feeling that you are cleaning and looking after your gun in the best way possible. You will thus maintain its value and, above all, its function-ality and accuracy.

Cleaning 49

PRE-CLEANING

To begin with, the rough outer dirt should, of course, be removed from the gun so that it does not end up in the barrel or in mobile parts by accident during the rest of the cleaning. Should the gun have become damp, it should, of course, be dried first. Here, it is sufficient to wipe the fire-arm or rub it dry with a soft cotton cloth or piece of kitch-en towel and, as far as possible, without a lot of pressure.

Should the gun have been soiled heavily during use in the hunting grounds or at the firing range to the extent that it needs to be wiped in-tensively, please remember that by doing this, you will also remove part of the protective, wafer-thin oil film. If the pending thorough cleaning is postponed to the next day, it is recommended first to dry off the gun, then to spray it lightly with Ballistol Universal Oil and then to wipe it with a fuzz-free cloth. In this way, excess oil is removed and an evenly thin and protective film of oil remains on the gun. Alternatively, the Ballistol care cloths, which are already soaked with Ballistol Universal Oil, can of course also be used.

For Your SafetyImportant: Before each cleaning, the user must be absolutely sure to check that there is no ammunition in the gun.

50 Cleaning

SIMPLE CLEANING/NORMAL BARREL CLEANING

The simple cleaning is to be carried out according to requirements and frequency of use. Here, the cleaning refers particularly to combustion res-idues, dampness, dirt and old lubricants. A definite cycle cannot be spec-ified, as this depends both on the intensity of use and on the standards of the marksman. At any event, regular and simple cleaning ensures a reliable and permanently precise gun. Additionally, possible damage can be ascertained early on.

The gun is to be disassembled before any cleaning. Here, the question often arises as to the extent to which the gun must be disassembled. The general rule is: up to the point where tools are required – with the exception of the tools supplied with the gun. If the marksman feels able to disassemble the gun further, this is also good. It should be remembered that a spring may be lurking behind any screw. Often, the spring cannot be integrated again, ne-cessitating a visit to a gunsmith.

If the gun has been disassembled, old residues of oil, grease and dirt can often be found at concealed points. Here, a suitable cleaner should be used, such as the Bal-listol gun part cleaner, which, in addition to its extremely effective mix of active ingredients, also has a particular-ly powerful spray. Avoid unsuitable solvents or cleaning agents such as nitro-dilution or cheap brake cleaners that could attack the gun material. Particularly stubborn soil-ing on surfaces and guides are best removed with an at-tachable brush, such as the one that comes with the BAL-

LISTOL gun part cleaner. The stable nylon bristles facilitate the mechanical cleaning without damaging sensitive surfaces such as a browning.

Optical systems are to be protected from oil and cleaner before the clean-ing – either by being covered or removed. Rifle slings should also be re-moved.

Expert tip – revolverWhen cleaning a revolver

barrel, the cylinder should always be pivoted. Optimal

guidance of the brush or the piece of felt is thus ensured.

It is important that the brush not be too long. At any event,

it should go completely out of sight in the cylinder. Other-

wise, it cannot be pushed completely through the barrel,

which can lead to the brush or even the barrel being dam-aged. In addition, this leads to an inadequate cleaning, with

dirt often still remaining in the barrel.

Cleaning 51

Once the gun has been disassembled, the level of soiling is ascertained. This is the basis for the selection of the appropriate cleaning agents and tools.

Once the rough outer dirt has been removed, attention is turned to clean-ing the barrel. To this end, spray Ballistol Universal Oil or GunCer into the barrel from the chamber; if Ballistol Universal Oil is used, turn and tilt the gun back and forth several times so that the inner walls of the barrel are moistened evenly as far as possible. An oil or nylon brush can also be used for this. If GunCer is used, put the barrel to one side with the muzzle facing downwards and wait until the foam that has been produced falls and drips out of the barrel at the bottom – a sign that the barrel is moistened evenly from top to bottom inside. It is important that the barrel be fac-ing downwards when it is sprayed. This prevents powder not burnt with the oil and other dirt from getting into the breech mechanism and causing damage. Otherwise, the mechanism will become stiff; in extreme cases, the firing pin can even jam.

Once the oil has reached the lands and grooves and the entire polygonal surface, allow it to take effect for a few minutes so that the deposits and combustion residues can dissolve. Subsequently, the barrel is drawn through with a dry piece of tow, a patch or a comfort cleaner made of felt. This procedure must be repeated to ensure that all the oil has been removed. Usually, the material used is pushed or pulled from the chamber towards the muzzle. In the case of stationary barrels or closed systems, it is pushed or pulled from the muzzle to the chamber and back again. This general-ly affects semi-automatic hunting guns as well as muzzle-loading guns and revolvers. The mobile cleaning set Flex-Clean from BALLISTOL offers a very good alternative to the laborious cleaning of closed systems with the cleaning rod. Here, the felt cleaners can be screwed on and pulled from the chamber to the muzzle. Thanks to the coated steel rope, possible damage to the muzzle is avoided.

Direction changeClosed systems and stationary barrels are difficult to clean from the chamber to the muzzle. Here, it is necessary to clean “in the wrong direc-tion”; however, it is essential to ensure that the brush is not retracted in the barrel, but rather is always pushed completely through into the chamber or the breech chan-nel. In the process, it should be ensured that the cleaning utensil does not hit against the firing pin or the breech base.

52 Cleaning

Should slight grey colouring still be visible on the pieces of felt after the material has been pulled through the barrel, you have, in fact, achieved your goal. Most guns do not need to be mirror-like; a slight grey colouring of the felt can be tolerated. However, the user is free to repeat the process until the pieces of felt are clean. Thus you can be sure that all the soiling is removed.

It is important that a fresh piece of tow or a felt plug be used; otherwise, the dirt would not be removed from the barrel, but only distributed evenly within it. Here, felt plugs have the advantage of being turned on a thread and also of being secured with a small nut, meaning they are fixed on the cleaning rod and can-not fall down by accident during the cleaning. If even tougher residues are subsequently present, than as-sumed, these can be loosened with a suitable brush so as then to be removed with absorbent material.

Then the chamber, the breech and the magazine are free of used oil and are again lubricated slightly with fresh oil.

If you are cleaning a repeating gun, you should be sure to make use of a false lock or a simple sleeve such as a plastic tube, in order to prevent the transition to the chamber from being damaged. Additionally, the cham-ber is thus sealed off so that no cleaning agent can flow into the internal box magazine or the foundation.

For the internal cleaning, an alkaline gun oil such as Ballistol Universal Oil offers a clear advantage: the acidic combustion residues were chemically neutralized in an effective manner and are thus made harmless. Addi-tionally, Ballistol Universal Oil offers reliable rust protection that is com-pletely sufficient for normal hunting and shooting conditions.

If you do not use too much ammunition and do not go hunting in all types of weather, the described cleaning and maintenance with Ballistol Uni-versal Oil, GunCer or Gunex is completely sufficient.

Heat helpsIf the oil is poured into

the barrel while the latter is still warm, this is advanta-

geous for the solvent prop-erties of the oil. The solvent power increases with rising

temperature, which, in this case, comes from

the residual warmth of the barrel.

Cleaning 53

However, at least once a year – more often in the case of active gun use – you should subject your gun to a thorough internal cleaning with Robla Solo MIL. You will find details on this in the following chapter.

INTENSIVE CLEANING/IN THE CASE OF STUBBORN SOILING

Cleaning the barrel regularly is essential for every gun – but when or how often should the barrel or the gun be subjected to an in-tensive cleaning? While some barrels shoot inaccurately after just a few shots at high projectile speeds, others are still extremely accurate even after a load of 50 shots and more. At what frequency the barrel is to be given an inten-sive cleaning so that the gun maintains its maximum pre-cision, depends on the ammunition used and, of course, on the gun itself.

The intensive cleaning can be divided into two areas. These are the preceding simple cleaning (as described in the pre-vious chapter) and the subsequent intensive cleaning. As soon as the rust and other particles have been removed from the gun, the underlying layers of projectile deposits can also be tackled. To this end, the remaining oil is re-moved from the barrel. This is done most easily with a cold degreaser or parts cleaner and a clean piece of felt. Afterwards, the barrel cleaner can be entered into the barrel (from the chamber) by means of dosed dripping with the bottle directly or with a soaked patch or piece of felt. The procedure can be read about in detail in the next chapter. After an applicati