go camping australia - issue 79

gear to goWhat’s hot

need to knowRemote aRea suRvival

dineWinteR WaRmeR pies

4wd techniquestop take off tips

All About the outbAckTop Outback eventsTop 10 Outback campsWA’s five ancient formationsDrive the red heart, NTCharleville’s star shine, QLDGundabooka National Park, NSWOpera in Undara, QLDOrmiston Gorge, NTArkaroola, SAFish Exmouth, WA

win a Discovery space evolution off roaD roof top tent valueD at $3900.00

Discover

TesT Lab CAmPEr TrAiLEr + TENT rEviEWS

June – July 2012 Issue 79 Aus $6.95 NZ $8.95

3 Quick Getaways

_Front Cover.indd 1 29/05/12 12:14 PM

As a

special offer,

the gold fridge

also comes with

a limited edition

black and gold

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In 2012 Engel celebrates 50 years and still remains the leading manufacturer

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PACKED FULL OF FEATURES: FINGERPRINT RESISTANT STAINLESS STEEL WIRELESS REMOTE TEMPERATURE READ OUT INBUILT 240v AC + 12/24v DC POWER SUPPLY ADJUSTABLE BATTERY CUT OUT QUIET OPERATION DOOR OPEN ALARM ENERGY EFFICIENT POLAR COMPRESSOR INTERNAL LED LIGHT AVAILABLE IN: 40L - 60L - 80L CAPACITY

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If you’re thinking of buying a high performance Fridge/Freezer, and want value for money with unique features – look no further than the Series III Fridge/Freezer from Primus. The Primus® Series III has all the features you would expect from a top of the range unit and much more. Clever features like a door open alarm, an internal LED light and wireless remote temperature read out means worry-free refrigeration while you’re out tackling the extreme. Powered by the revolutionary Polar Compressor and backed by a 3 year Australia wide warranty, the Primus® Series III really is the intelligent choice for the smart buyer. For your nearest stockist or for more information on the Primus range and accessories call Primus on 1300 657 022.

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4 | Go Camping Australia

Cont

ents

46

26 54

Shout It!

10 Send your letters in and WIN!

Events

11 What’s on Meet the locals at these Outback events.

By Lee Mylne

Update

12 Outdoor news from around Australia. By Kerry Heaney

Quick Getaways

14 Short breaks Only got a weekend spare?

Here’s where to go.

By Lee Mylne

Through My Eyes

16 An endless horizon This is a land where cattle and

kangaroos outnumber the humans. Out

here people are addicted to wide open

spaces, not merely coping with the

remote landscape but thriving on it.

By Ewen Bell

Remote

20 Cornered in the Outback Explore where NSW, SA and

Queensland collide in a jumble of

wire fences.

By Briar Jensen

Ancient

26 Carved by time WA’stopfiveancientrockformations.

By Emma George

Drive

30 Through the red heart If taking a road trip is a great Australian

dream, then driving from Darwin to

Alice Springs through some of the

nation’s most spectacular country

in a camper, complete with all the

mod-cons, is the ideal way to make it

come true.

By Ingrid Sanders

Enjoy

38 Hitting a high note Two weekends per year, visitors

to Undara Volcanic National Park

experience an eruption of song for

Opera in the Outback.

By Kara Murphy

Explore

42 Oasis in the centre Ormiston Gorge is a quiet oasis in NT’s

Red Centre.

By Heidrun Rodach

Timeslide

46 Back o’ Bourke History strewn riverside camping in NSW.

By Lee Atkinson


04-05 _Contents.indd 4 29/05/12 2:29 PM

Go Camping Australia | 5

30

Walk

50 Outback beauty A cheeky Willie Wagtail hopped around

us as we set up camp, while a red-capped robin watched from a branch, a more respectable distance away in the stunning landscape of Arkaroola, SA.

By Barbara and Kevin Weimer

Discover

54 More stars on the horizon Stars shine at Charleville, in

Queensland’s mulga-rich south west Outback region, day and night.

By Kara Murphy

Top 10

58 Top Outback camps Outback icons you won’t

want to miss. By Lee Atkinson

Go Fish

62 Outback meets the sea Spinifex and red sand meet turquoise bays

and white beaches in the Nullarbor, WA. By Martin Auldist

Camper Trailer Review

66 Small on size, big on options Ever looked longingly at a camper

trailer but thought it would be all too much for your soft roader to cope with? Conqueror Australia’s new UEV-310 could be the answer.

By Kerry Heaney

Tent Review

70 Pitch pronto Rapid pitch touring tents, such as the

new Companion Exo Lite 300, are a

great option for those with a 4WD

who want a comfortable tent with a

minimum of fuss.

By Lee Atkinson

Need to Know

74 Remote area survival kit 10 things you need when heading off

the beaten track.

By Lee Atkinson

Dine

76 Winter warmer pies Avoidfiddlingandfussingasthesunis

setting the bugs are biting, just pull out

a pie!

By Julie Bishop and Regina Jones

4WD Techniques

79 Top take off tips Travelling light or taking the tribe,

choose your kit carefully for a

top trip.

By Mark Allen

Wildlife Watch

82 Outback critters Small creatures in a big land.

By Lee Mylne and Len Zell


Gear to Go

84 Top new gear Just what you need for your next

outdoor adventure. By Kerry Heaney

Photo Smart

86 Chemistry of colour Make your images pop with colour. By Danielle Lancaster

Holidays and Horror Days

88 Just deserts While every environment has the

potential to harm the innocent traveller, deserts are the setting where the threat is barely veiled behind stark beauty.

By David McGonigal

04-05 _Contents.indd 5 29/05/12 2:30 PM


Go Camping Australia is distributed through newsagents and camping stores across Australia. Recommended retail price A$6.95. Annual subscription A$33 includes postage within Australia and GST. Distribution by Gordon and Gotch. Editorial and photographic contributions welcomed. Disks, transparencies and self-addressed stamped envelopes are required.

The publisher takes no responsibility for the views expressed in articles or advertisements herein. The publisher could not possibly ensure that each advertisement published in the magazine complies with the Trade Practices Act. While every endeavour has been made to ensure complete accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

Print Post approval No. PP437181/10.

Front Cover: Home Valley Station, The Kimberley, Western Australia. Photo courtesy of Home Valley Station.

PublisherMichael Vink

EditorKerry Heaney E: [email protected]

Advertising ManagerGeorgina Chapman T: (07) 3334 8007

E: [email protected]

Graphic DesignersRichard Locke, Wendy Deng, Matt Limmer

ProofreaderKaren Belik

ContributorsMark AllenLee AtkinsonMartin AuldistEwen BellEmma GeorgeBriar Jensen

Regina Jones & Julie Bishop

Danielle Lancaster

David McGonigal

Kara Murphy

Lee Mylne & Len Zell

Heidrun RodachIngrid SandersBarbara & Kevin Weimer

Published ByVINK Publishing ABN 3107 478 5676 Bi-Monthly

Head Office: 38-40 Fisher St, East Brisbane Q 4169

Postal: PO Box 8369, Woolloongabba Q 4102

T: (07) 3334 8000 F: (07) 3391 5118

Tikkina 2

Tikka 2 XPTikka 2 Plus

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NEW PETZL COREUSB rechargeable and programmable battery

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HANDS-FREE LIGHTING. FIND MORE HOURS IN EACH DAY.

6 _Pubdetails.indd 6 30/05/12 11:03 AM

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7_PrimusAustralia 1.indd 1 29/05/12 2:33 PM

Now opeN. The largesT

collecTioN of wildflowers

oN earTh.

Wildflowers, Wooleen Station. Just one of the many extraordinary experiences you can enjoy in WA. For detailed itineraries, wildflower locations and to plan your trip, visit westernaustralia.com/wildflowers

WA Tourism_DPS.indd 1 29/05/12 2:35 PM

Now opeN. The largesT

collecTioN of wildflowers

oN earTh.

Wildflowers, Wooleen Station. Just one of the many extraordinary experiences you can enjoy in WA. For detailed itineraries, wildflower locations and to plan your trip, visit westernaustralia.com/wildflowers

WA Tourism_DPS.indd 2 29/05/12 2:35 PM

Where’s baby?Returning to camp

from a morning

scuba diving trip I

found my wife sitting

alone. Where’s Sarah (our 6

month-old baby) I enquired? Oh that

woman camping over there asked if

she could take her for a walk. Do you

think I did the right thing? Thankfully

she returned with our precious first

born plus her husband gave us a feed

of whiting as well. Experiences like this

can only happen when camping.

Graeme Galvin, Warabrook, NSW

CongratulationsGraeme Galvin has won a recipe book

and a range of Super Sprout fruit and

vegetable powders in 150g tubs valued

at $150 for his letter.

HENLEY ON TODD REGATTA, NT Enjoy the fun from under the

shade of gum trees on the edge

of the dry Todd River bed – or

‘float’ your own ‘boat’ in the

race itself – at the world’s first

and only waterless regatta with

a load of fun events. Held on

August 19 in Alice Springs.

www.henleyontodd.com.au

From the EditorPack your bags and brace for the bull dust, we’re going Outback with this edition.

We’ve scoured Australia for the best Outback options, the hidden secrets and the must-does. Use this edition as your guide for exploring Australia’s Outback and you won’t be sorry.

After ten years editing Go Camping Australia it’s time for me to move on. It’s been a blast travelling with you around Australia and a privilege to share the many wonderful destinations this country offers.

Thank you for the many letters sharing your opinions, interests, compliments and comments, which I have received over the years. It’s been a pleasure knowing you and I hope your passion for the great outdoors continues.

Enjoy, Kerry Heaney Editor [email protected]

Mat

t Scu

rfiel

d

ViewpointYour Say

Write in and winShare your camping

experience and you could

win an Outdoor Connection Weekender tent valued

at $299.

The Weekender tent finished

with the highest score in

the ‘What to buy’ section

of the CHOICE 2011 tent

comparison and is perfect for

those weekend getaways! It

boasts large front and rear

doors, floor to ceiling inner

windows plus Ventraflow panels on both sides to allow cross-flow of air low down where you

sleep, keeping you comfortable on those hot summer nights. The front and rear awnings can

be erected with three adjustable poles and the unique Hornet Pole system gives exceptional

headroom and internal space. A simple addition of Optional Awning side walls gives a proper all

weather awning area not found on other dome tents.

The Weekender is part of Outdoor Connection’s Resort Range of tents which also includes

the Bedarra and Heron (two room tents) and the three room Brampton tent. Be the

envy of the camping ground in your Weekender tent! RRP $299. Further information at

www.outdoorconnection.com.au or call 07 3715 8400.

Send your letters in to [email protected] by June 30 for a chance to win the tent.

CONNECTION

Have your say and WIN!


10-12 _News_Events_Viewpoint.indd 10 29/05/12 2:41 PM


BOULIA CAMEL RACES, QLDThe Outback town of Boulia almost bursts at the seams as about 3000 people arrive for the Boulia Camel Races (July 13-15). Camel rides, sky-diving, belly dancers, market stalls and children’s entertainment make it a family affair with silver and gold cup races on Sunday. www.outbacknow.com.au

LIGHTNING RIDGE OPAL FESTIVAL, NSWHeld over four days (July 26-29), events include the Opal Queen Black Ball, Opal & Gem Festival, trade shows, entertainment and a jewellery competition all in the Outback mining town of Lightning Ridge. www.lightningridgeopalfestival.com.au

PICHI RICHI RAILWAY, SALeave your car and tent behind for the day and

take a trip on the historic Pichi Richi Railway,

which operates regular heritage train journeys

on the oldest remaining section of the famous

narrow-gauge old Ghan railway. Trains run

between Quorn, in South Australia’s Flinders

Ranges, and Port Augusta. www.prr.org.au

Events

MOWANJUM FESTIVAL, WA Experience the art and culture of the Western

Kimberley’s Worrorra, Ngarinyin and

Wunumbal people at the Mowanjum art and

culture centre, outside Derby, on July 12. See

more than 100 Indigenous performers, boab nut

carving, didgeridoo workshops and corroborees

plus the region’s unique Wandjina art.

www.mowanjumarts.com

WALHALLA VINTER LJUSFEST, VICFor the whole of August, Walhalla Historic

Township is transformed by the Vinter Ljusfest,

the Swedish tradition of celebrating winter with

lights, sound and images. Light shows run every

night from 6.30pm until 9.30pm, and other

special events are held. www.visitwalhalla.com

All aboard for the world’s most unusual regattaCamels are just one of the attractions at the Boulia Camel Races

Walhalla is transformed by light and sound during Ljusfest

Corroboree at the Mowanjum Festival

Pichi Richi Railway

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What’s onWords: Lee Mylne

Share fun with the locals at these Outback events



Update

Make your markKoomurri Aboriginal Centre has opened

at Echo Point in the Blue Mountains.

Guests to the centre are invited to make

their mark with ochre paint on the centre’s

welcoming wall and participate in interactive

didgeridoo performances. Cultural talks

by local indigenous presenters teach

visitors about the use of tools and bush

materials by Aboriginal tribal groups from

across Australia and traditional dances are

performed every hour on the hour. The

centre’s art gallery also showcases a rich

diversity of art. More information at

www.koomurriaboriginalcentre.com.au

Save a tree They provide us with shade, shelter and scenic views so it makes sense to get involved in National Tree Day on Sunday 29 July to help inspire a healthy, happy, green community. Planet Ark spokesperson Rebecca Gilling says that National Tree Day is a great day to get outside and have fun while doing something good for the local environment. Find out more at www. treeday.planetark.org or call 1300 88 5000

Show goes onShowcasing the latest for holidaymakers and road travellers, the Queensland Caravan, Camping and Touring Holiday Show will set up camp between June 6 and 12 at Brisbane’s iconic RNA Showgrounds in areas unaffected by the current redevelopment. The show will feature nearly 300 exhibitors showcasing the latest innovations, services and destinations, along with informative and entertaining seminars and displays. Visitors to this year’s show will also have the opportunity to win a caravan, complete with a tinnie and outboard motor.

Tag along to Corner Country Explore Corner Country where three

states meet in safety and with company on

a Travel West’s new 4WD Tag Along tours.

Personally guided by Travel West’s owners

Graham and Debbie Reid, the seven-night

tag along tours depart Charleville in the

south west Queensland Outback for a

week-long adventure taking in Birdsville,

the Channel Country, Simpson Desert,

Innamincka and the Corner Country – where

South Australia, New South Wales and

Queensland meet. The tour finishes with two

nights based at Tibooburra – “the capital of

the Corner Country” – a tiny Outback town

which has long attracted artists fascinated

by the desert, including Clifton Pugh, Russell

Drysdale and Rick Amor.

According to Graham, the tag along tours

are ideal for relatively new 4WD owners – or

those who would like to get off the beaten

track, with the back-up of experienced

guides in an escort vehicle. Tours are

scheduled for May 24, June 29, July 19 and

August 19. For more information call

1800 654 541, (07) 4654 3155 or email [email protected]

Seeking cloud forest wildlifeEarthwatch Australia’s new research

project ‘Wildlife of the Cloud Forests’ is

calling for volunteers to work with scientists

to understand the impacts of climate change

on the wildlife inhabiting Australia’s World

Heritage rainforest in North Queensland.

Richard Gilmore, Executive Director,

Earthwatch Australia says volunteers are

needed to conduct surveys at different

altitudes from sea level to 1,400 metres

and help spot and sometimes catch birds,

reptiles, frogs and mammals. “It’s a rare

opportunity to escape to this beautiful,

remote area to observe native animals

in their natural environment and make a

difference,” says Gilmore.

The first Wildlife of the Cloud Forests team

kicks off on August 5 and runs through until

August 19, with a second team to follow on

October 28. To sign up call Earthwatch on (03) 9682 6828 or visit earthwatch.org.au

Outdoornews from around Australia

Words: Kerry Heaney


Where will your next camping trip take you - weekend getaway or a

once in a lifetime adventure? Tyres are usually the last thing you think about when planning your trip but can be the first thing you worry about when you head off. Will you get a puncture, flat tyre or blow out at speed? So what should you consider when choosing your next set of tyres for your four-wheel drive or SUV?

Choose an aftermarket tyreOriginal tyres fitted to new vehicles are made to the vehicle manufacturers specifications and generally built with a passenger construction. The result could be a compromise on the tyres

Tyres play such an important role in your car safety, when heading out on a trip, as they bear the entire weight of your vehicle and its contents. You need the right peace of mind that you’re getting the right traction on the road so your car can steer, brake and accelerate.

performance and life as they can be more easily damaged. Light truck constructed tyres are stronger and offer more puncture resistance, load carrying capacity, extra tread and wear and off-road grip.When considering tyres you need to consider what construction is going to best suit where you are going to drive.

How to choose your CoopersA/T3 - The new Cooper Discoverer A/T3 offers a direct original equipment replacement, in a light truck construction, for some of the most popular four-wheel drive vehicles on the market today. The A/T3 utilises a balanced combination of technology, compounding and design to

produce a quality tyre that will perform well in nearly all types of terrain.

S/TMAXX - The new S/TMAXX arrives after three years of testing in Australia’s outback and introducing for the first time in an all-terrain tyre, Cooper’s proven Armor-Tek3 carcass construction. There is now a tyre specifically constructed and designed to thrive in the harshest conditions Australia has to offer while still offering great on-road characteristics.

STT - The STT is for the driver who wants a serious tyre with the grip and puncture resistance to drive the most serious off-road conditions. Featuring Cooper’s Armor-Tek3 carcass construction, the STT is now even 25% stronger in the sidewall and still 2.5 times more resistant to tearing.

Australia’s largest range of 4WD tyresIt doesn’t matter where you’re driving, highway to the harsh off-road, Cooper Tires has your 4WD or SUV covered.

Authorised DealersCooper Tires are only available from authorised Cooper Tire dealers. To find the dealer closest to you visit the locator on the website.

For your FREE tyre guide and more information about the Cooper Tires range visit www.coopertires.com.au or call 1300 COOPER

STTA/T3 S/TMAXX70% road & sand30% dirt & mud

50% road & sand50% dirt & mud

20% road & sand80% dirt & mud

S/TMAXX - designed for more demanding off-road use but great on-road characteristics.

A/T3 - designed for the occasional off road use but more time on road.

STT - designed for the serious off-roader with all the protection.

What you need to consider when choosing your next set of 4WD tyres

^1

^1 Australia Registered Design No. 334293

^2

^2 Australia Registered Design No. 334885

Go Camping 2012 (Cooper).indd 1 28/05/2012 9:27:16 AM

Exclusive Tyre Distributors.indd 1 29/05/12 2:47 PM


BreaksShort

Words: Lee Mylne

PERTH GETAWAYDryandra Woodland, near Narrogin and Williams, 165km

south east of Perth in the Golden Outback region, is home to

Western Australia’s state mammal emblem, the numbat, as

well as other animals such as red-tailed phascogales, woylies,

tammar wallabies, kangaroos, echidnas and brushtail possums.

Take a walk through the eucalypt woodland and watch for birds,

including tawny frogmouths and the mound-building mallee fowl.

Barna Mia, an animal sanctuary inside Dryandra Woodland, runs

guided nocturnal tours at sunset. There are walking and cycling

trails from 1km to 27km, for all fitness levels. One of the most

interesting is the Ochre Trail, which describes the Nyoongar

culture of the area. The Congelin campground has toilets, picnic

tables and wood barbecues – but you need to take your own wood

and drinking water. No dogs allowed. The campground operates

on a first come–first served basis. Fees are $7 per night for adults,

$5 concession and $2 for children under 16.

www.dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds

DARWIN GETAWAYThe picturesque Douglas River, rejuvenating thermal springs and abundant wildlife are some of the things that make the Tjuwaliyn (Douglas) Hot Springs Park a great getaway. The park is owned by the Wagiman people who jointly manage it with the Parks and Wildlife Commission. It is an important place for women’s business ceremonies and may sometimes be closed for ceremonies. The Park is 200km south of Darwin on the Old Stuart Highway scenic route from Adelaide River (the last 7km into Tjuwaliyn is a gravel road). Swimming is best in the cooler pools about 200m either side of the camp ground; be aware that some parts of the river are very hot. The camping area – which has areas for caravans, but no power – is large, with pit toilets, barbecues, firewood, picnic tables and water. Camping fees are $6.60 for adults, $3.30 for children 5-15 years or $15.40 for a family.

www.nretas.nt.gov.au

MELBOURNE GETAWAYCamping in the snow without having to

pitch your own tent makes for a great

getaway in Victoria’s High Country. Mt

Stirling’s Alpine Winter Camp, at 1500m

elevation, has a central tepee for dining and

socialising around the pot belly stove, seven

four-man tents on raised, insulated platforms

and kitchen facilities. Mt Stirling is 230km from

Melbourne, and in ski season (June to October) has

60km of cross country trails. You will need to walk or ski

your supplies (including sleeping bag) and personal equipment in (or you can pre-order

food supplies). The camp is available for individual and group hire and weekend back

country ski tours are also available. Tents are tall enough to stand up in and have an

area for equipment storage, together with stretchers, insulated underlay and warm

fibre-pile blankets. The cost is $120 per night with a two day minimum on weekends

(Friday–Sunday).

www.stirling.au.com

Quick Getaways

Only got a weekend spare? Here’s where to go

Walking and cycling trails for all levels of fitness. Camping in the snow at Mt Stirling Alpine Winter Camp.

Soaking it up at Tjuwaliyn

Hot Springs Park

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14 _QuickGetaways.indd 14 29/05/12 2:48 PM

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16 | Go Camping Australia16 | Go Camping Australia

HorizonAn endless

Words and photos: Ewen Bell

This is a land where cattle and

kangaroos outnumber the

humans. Out here people are

addicted to wide open spaces,

not merely coping with the

remote landscape but thriving

on it. That sense of an endless

horizon, an unpolluted sky and

the oldest rocks on the planet.

A few miles outside of Coober

Pedy the locals gather to watch

the sunset, to watch the ochre

and pink hues of the earth get

drenched in a sea of yellow.

This is a powerful landscape yet

richly subtle, possessing just

enough people to give a voice

to its beauty. Sometimes these

are the voices of Indigenous

artists, sometimes they are

cattle ranchers, sometimes they

are bush pilots. This photo essay

shares their voice from the air

and the land.

16-19 _ThroughNEW.indd 16 29/05/12 2:52 PM

Go Camping Australia | 17 Go Camping Australia | 17


18 | Go Camping Australia18 | Go Camping Australia

Main Photo: Escarpment above Baines River (NT)1: Desert flora in the Red Centre (NT)2: Mt Sonders at Dawn (NT)3: Stockmen at Home Valley (WA)4: The Junk Yard at Marree Station (SA)5: Last light at Parachilna (SA)

2

1


Go Camping Australia | 19 Go Camping Australia | 19 4 5

3



Corneredin the Outback Words and photos: Briar Jensen

T ibooburra – At the Edge of the Big Effin Desert says the bumper sticker

for the Tibooburra Hotel, aka the Two Storey Hotel. At 335km from

Broken Hill in far north west NSW, Tibooburra is a welcome relief from

its desert surrounds.

Meaning ‘Heap of Rocks’ in the local Aboriginal language, the huge, round

granite boulders that define the town stand out like the proverbial dog’s balls

from the vast flat plains that encircle them.

The boulders provide a stunning natural backdrop to Granites Motel

and Caravan Park where guests gather for happy hour around a barbeque.

With a population of about 150, two pubs and a National Parks Office,

Tibooburra is a great place to re-provision or leave the caravan for a jaunt

to Cameron Corner.

John and Mavis Jackson, owners of Granites, also run TJ’s Roadhouse,

which sells everything from petrol and provisions to clothes and books. (A

quick peruse of the titles reveals The Australian Motorcycle Atlas, The Grey Nomads Guidebook and Sex in your Seventies.)

Mavis was born in Tibooburra but John arrived in 1968. “You’re not a local

until you’ve got 16 relatives buried in the cemetery,” he says, before showing

us his talking Corella, which shakes hands and rolls in a tin can.

We’ve arrived in Tibooburra from Broken Hill, along the Silver City

Highway. But don’t be fooled by the name – the road is a patchwork of

black bitumen, white stone, grey gravel and red dust. I’m glad I’m not driving.

I’ve left that to Geoff Spangler, guide of our Tri State Safaris 4WD

adventure, which means I can sit back and enjoy the scenery. (Tri State

Safaris offer tag-along options. See Fact Box for details.)

Substantial recent rain has transformed the landscape from barren rocky

desert into bourgeoning scrubland. Gnarled bushes and stunted trees cover

the ground like a knobbly astrakhan carpet in shades of olive-grey and blue-

green. Ephemeral lakes, no longer mirages, glisten in the distance.

Families of wild goats graze in fenceless paddocks, kangaroos bound

across the road in front of us and emus race comically beside our vehicle,

tails bouncing like huge fluffy dusters.

We stayed overnight at Packsaddle Roadhouse, about halfway between

Broken Hill and Tibooburra, which offers caravan and camping facilities along

with a welcome beer. The corrugated iron restaurant, housing an enormous

fireplace rescued from an old shearing shed, drips with pastoral memorabilia.

Enroute from Packsaddle to Tibooburra we stopped at Milparinka,

once a thriving gold mining town with stately municipal buildings and four

pubs. When the gold ran out it was all but

abandoned and remained a ghost town until

rescued by a group of local volunteers.

The remaining sandstone buildings of

the courthouse, police station and gaol

cells have been restored and turned

into a heritage precinct. A visitor centre

operates between March and October,

manned by volunteers who live-in on a

three-week roster. They’re a wealth of

local knowledge and history, and always

good for a chat.

Nearby is Depot Glen, where Charles

Sturt’s expedition was trapped by drought

for six months in 1845. A hot breeze

rustling through ancient gums mimics the

sound of trickling water, but the riverbed

is parched. James Poole’s grave, Sturt’s

second-in-command, lies under a tree

bearing his initials, testament to the harsh

conditions.

We quench our thirsts on arrival in

Tibooburra at the Family Hotel, which

despite its name has more naked butts than

a buck’s party. But don’t be put off, they’re

just part of the hotel’s famous murals,

painted by artists including Clifton Pugh

and Russel Drysdale.

Where NSW, SA and Queensland collide in a jumble of wire fences

1

2

5

20-25 _Remote_Cornered in the Outback.indd 20 29/05/12 3:03 PM


1: Passing through the dingo fence.

2: Driving across a clay pan.

3: Roadside art in Corner Country.

4: Ruins at Milparinka.

5: The sand is a vibrant terracotta.

6: Granites Caravan Park.

7: Flying Doctor mural in the Family Hotel, Tibooburra.

3

7

4

6

Remote



Along with the nudes are humorous works by

Broken Hill artist Howard William Steer depicting

the ‘Flying Doctor’. A rendition of the dog fence is

being painted as we drink, by Roxanne Minchin,

whose late husband Eric Minchin’s work also

adorns the walls.

Roxanne’s painting comes to life the next day

as we strike out for Cameron Corner through

Sturt National Park. Crossing a red clay pan dust

billows in our wake, coating roadside plants – and

our nostrils – in fine pink dust.

The 5000km dingo fence, originally built to

control rabbits, stretches to the horizon like a

line scratched across a wet ochre canvas. The

dirt is such a vibrant shade of burnt orange that

Eric Minchin had to bottle it to prove to his US

exhibitors it was actually the colour he depicted

it in his paintings.

The approach to Cameron Corner is a jumble

of wire fences and we duck through South

Australia before veering right into Queensland.

A metal plaque atop a white post marks the exact

intersection of NSW, SA and Queensland, and our

destination – the middle of nowhere.

Fenn Miller, owner of Cameron Corner Store

and pub, says people come here for all sorts of

reasons. Some just

pass through enroute

between Birdsville and

Innamincka, while others, like

the group of dirt-bikers we meet

from Coffs Harbour, come specifically

to ‘slap the post’.

It’s a popular spot for New Year’s Eve too,

says Fenn, when visitors can celebrate in three

time zones and four states – the fourth being

inebriation.

Returning to Tibooburra takes us past Olive

Downs Lookout, with a view across the Jump Ups,

flat-topped ridges that protrude starkly from the

jibber plains. At South Myers Tank, an isolated

dam, flocks of birds, from galahs to pelicans, titter

in the trees and wade in the water – an Outback

oasis teeming with life.

We head back towards Broken Hill the next

day, stopping in with Matt and Zanna Gale at

Pincally Station to watch their three daughters

do a School of the Air lesson. They offer gorgeous

B&B rooms in the 100-year-old homestead and

a self contained cottage, but we push on, visiting

Ruth Sandow, a passionate promoter of Outback

tourism, at Pimpara Lake, a 44,000ha property

1: Roxanne Minchin paints at the Family Hotel, Tibooburra.

2: The dingo fence.

3: Emus dash across the track.

4: Coffs Harbour dirt bikers ‘slapping the post’ at Cameron Corner.

1 3

2

4

Remote

Families of wild goats graze in fenceless paddocks, kangaroos bound across the road in front of us and emus race comically beside our vehicle, tails bouncing like huge fluffy dusters

that offers lakeside camping when there is

sufficient water in their ephemeral creeks.

At Mount Gipps Station owners John and Kym

Cramp dish up lashings of country hospitality after

a tour of their property, which includes old mine

shafts, Aboriginal engravings, a gorgeous display

of Sturt Desert Peas and, atop Sunset Hill, a 360

degree view of the country we’ve just covered.



Furphys

Go Caravan & Camping Guide – Vol 2

aVailable nowTo obtain a copy via mail order please contact [email protected] or send a cheque for $14.95, made payable to Vink Publishing, PO Box 8369, Woolloongabba QLD 4102. Price includes postage within Australia.

Furphy’s Foundry SalesPty Ltd

Quality Camp Oven Range

FURPHY’S FOUNDRY SALES PTY LTDDrummond Road, Shepparton VIC 3630 Phone: (03) 5831 2777 Web: www.furphyfoundry.com.au

Discover endless cooking options with the Furphy camp oven range.



1

21: Milparinka Heritage Precinct.

2: Spangler talks about the local geology.

Fact File Getting thereCameron Corner is located about 500km from Broken Hill and 140km from Tibooburra, through Sturt National Park. Unless you want to stay at Cameron Corner, leave your van in Tibooburra and take a day trip to Cameron Corner, doing a loop back through Middle Road and Jump Up Loop Road (both 4WD only). Even light rain can affect some roads so check for road closures on (08) 8082 6660 or via the NSW RTA Live Traffic website http://livetraffic.rta.nsw.gov.au

Tri State Safaris offer tag-along options, where you drive in convoy with their coach or 4WD. This is a great idea if you’ve never driven in the Outback before or just want the support of fellow travellers and a knowledgeable local guide. www.tristate.com.au

When to goTibooburra often records the hottest temperature in NSW, so it’s best to visit in autumn, winter or spring, from March to October.

Where to campPacksaddle Roadhouse has caravan and camping sites and rooms with shared facilities – www.packsaddleroadhouse.com.au

Granites Motel and Caravan Park has caravan and camping sites and motel rooms – Ph (08) 8091 3305

Cameron Corner Store has caravan and camping sites and rooms with shared facilities – Ph (08) 8091 3872

Milparinka township has caravan and camping sites. Call into the Heritage Visitor Information Centre for details.

Pimpara Lake Station has shearers’ quarters and lakeside bush camping sites – Ph (08) 8091 2524

Pineview Station has a self-contained cottage, shearers’ quarters and bush camping sites – Ph (08) 8091 2513

Theldarpa Station has bush camping sites and power for caravans – Ph (08) 8091 3576

Pincally Station has bush camping sites, B&B rooms in the homestead and a self contained cottage – Ph (08) 8091 3571

Mount Gipps Station has caravan and camping sites, shearers’ quarters and two cottages – www.mountgippsstation.com.au

More informationOutback NSW Tourism – www.visitoutbacknsw.com.au Corner Country – www.outbacknsw.com.au Sturt National Park – www.environment.nsw.gov.au/nationalparks

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Sylvester Lake

LakeCallabonna

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Lake Gregory

Lake Yamma Yamma(Mackillop)

Lake Galilee

LakeHart

PernattyLagoon

LakeMachattie

LakeCadibarrawirracanna

LakeMaraboon

LakeBuchanan

Lake Etamunbanie

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Moonda Lake

LakeYounghusband

Peery Lake

Lake Wyara

Lake Mulapula

Terewah OrNarran Lake

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Bougainville Reef

Herald Cays

Lihou Reef and Cays

Holmes Reef

Flinders Reefs

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GROOTE EYLANDT

FRASER ISLAND

MORNINGTONISLAND

Hinchinbrook Island

Vanderlin Island

Moa (Clarke) I

Bribie Island

Marchinbar Island

Bentinck Island

Badu (Mulgrave) I

Prince Of Wales(Muralag) I

Saibai I

North Stradbroke Island

Raragala Island

Boigu I

Townshend Island

Magnetic Island

Great Palm Island

Great Keppel Island

Mabuiag I

Maria Island

Darnley(Erub) I

Murray Islands

Lady Elliott I

Green Island

West I

Whitsunday Island

Moreton Island

North Island

Guluwuru Island

Hayman IslandGloucester Island

Curtis I

Bremer Island

South Stradbroke I

Scawfell Island

Lizard Island

Dunk Island

Heron Island

Lloyd Bay

HERVEYBAY

Temple Bay

ArnhemBay

HALIFAX BAY

BROAD SOUND

Caledon Bay

Port Clinton

Weymouth Bay

LIMMEN BIGHT

MelvilleBay Port Musgrave

ALBATROSS BAY

Port Bradshaw

ShelburneBay

Newcastle Bay

Rockingham Bay

SHOALWATER BAY

Bowling Green Bay

G U L F

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PRINCESSCHARLOTTE

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Moreton Bay

Cape York

Hay Point

Cape Byron

Sandy Cape

Cape Arnhem

Waddy Point

Abbot Point

Cape Moreton

Cape Clinton

Duyfken Point

Cape Beatrice

Cape Keerweer

Cape Flattery

Lookout Point

Cape Melville

Cape Direction

Cape Grenville

Cape Wilberforce

Upsta

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Saraji

Keppel Bay

Port Curtis

CURTIS CHANNEL

Horn (Narupai) I

Milyakburra

Cape Tribulation

MtRobe

Mt Norna

Mt Abbot

Mt Elliot

Mt Walker

Mt Hutton

Bald Hill

Mt Carter

Mt WilliamMt Hogarth

Mt Stewart

Mt Halifax

Mt Drummond

Mt Tabletop

Mt Drummond

Mt Finnigan

St Mary Peak

Consuelo PeakThree Sisters

Thornton Peak

Round MtnMt Booroondarra

Kerrs Table Mount

Bairds Table Mount

Bartle Frere

Mt Unbunmaroo(Black Mount)

Freeling Heights

Haddon Corner

Cameron Corner

Poeppel Corner

C H A N N E L C O U N T R Y

NORTHUMBERLAND

ISLANDS

Nebo

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Peak Downs

Repulse Bay

Flind

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G R E A T B A R R I E R R E E F

G R E A T B A R R I E R R

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Robinson River

Nelia

GumluClare

Laura

Tilpa

Garah

Hebel

Emmet

Comet

Wowan

Louth

Yaraka

Yetman

Marree

Anakie

Malbon

Quamby

Dalbeg

Morven

JundahBanana

Yaamba

Kynuna

Moomba

Bollon

Cracow

Moonie

Paluma

Ogmore

Byrock

Rowena

Carinda

Mingela

Dulacca

Adavale

Kinrola

Koumala

Duchess

Gilliat

Prairie

Bellata

Bonshaw

Thallon

Wyandra

Cheepie

Callide

Jericho

Morella

Carmila

Almaden

Pilliga

Beltana

Betoota

Kajabbi

Blinman

Kidston

Dajarra

CooladdiWestgate Guluguba

Yandaran

Newlands

Quambone

Enngonia

Isisford

Yalleroi

Corfield

Stamford

Forsayth

Daintree

Bedourie

McKinlay

Coolabah

Eromanga

Toompine

CoolataiCumborah

Windorah

Gwabegar

Nymboida

Pentland

Arrilalah

Goonyella

Maxwelton

Blackbull

Wanaaring

Rolleston

Port Alma

Middleton

Woodstock

Chillagoe

Urandangi

Greenvale

Condamine

Baryulgil

Meandarra

Lyndhurst

Gunpowder

Innamincka

Coppabella

Ravenswood

Hungerford

Nindigully

Kumbarilla

Glenmorgan

Mungallala

Stonehenge

Ilfracombe

Einasleigh

Birdsville

Burramurra

Yantabulla

Muttaburra

Abergowrie

Elura Mine

Parachilna

Tibooburra

Marlborough

Bogantungan

Mount Perry

St LawrenceBlair Athol

Mount Molloy

Weilmoringle

BalfesCreek

Fords Bridge

Torrens Creek

Gilbert River

Phosphate Hill

Mount Surprise

Lakeland

Burren Junction

SouthBlackwater

Olympic Dam

Captain Billy Landing

Andoom

Bambaroo

Homestead

Mount Coolon

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Whitsunday Group

WELLESLEY ISLANDS

CUMBERLAND ISLANDS

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Iffley

Almora

Dunbar

Durrie

Soudan

Rokeby

Leumeah

Cowarie

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Retreat

Monkira

Jervois

Corinda

Barenya

UndillaCanobie

Vanrook

Clayton

LongtonTarbrax

Bulimba

Benmara

Merluna

Mahanewo

Tartulla

Koolatah

Yarrawin

Ranken

Caiwarro

Naryilco

Orientos

Trinidad

Glengyle

Surbiton

Cassilis

AnnitowaGeorgina

Downs

Burleigh

Morstone

Lorraine

Wondoola

Bowthorn Barwidgi

Inkerman

Etadunna

Humeburn

Arrabury

Eastmere

Wambiana

Lolworth

Toolebuc

Highbury

Drumduff

Yarraden

Bramwell

Innisvale

Arkaroola

Fort GreyBundaleer

Tobermory

Thylungra

Palparara Nandowrie

Connemara

Vergemont Peak Vale

Aberfoyle

Kamileroi

EsmeraldaRobinhood

Mittiebah

Lawn Hill

Bing Bong

Woolerina

Curnamona

Yancannia

Ambathala

Collabara

Lake Nash

Lyndhurst

Gallipoli

Seven Emu

Lakefield

Avon Downs

Tobermorey

Frankfield

Yelvertoft

Mootwingee

Nockatunga

Castlevale

Warbreccan

Coorabulka

Springvale

Lucy Creek

Ooratippra

Thorntonia

Claraville

Inverleigh Strathmore

Murnpeowie

Currawilla

YarrowmereChatsworth

Carandotta

Dalgonally

Wando Vale

Meadowbank

Armraynald

Alexandria

Strathburn

Moolawatana

Murra Murra

Durrandella

Breadalbane

Argadargada

Numil Downs

Riversleigh

Donors Hill

Delta Downs

TiltagoonahMulyungarie

Frome Downs

Moray Downs

Natal Downs

Malbon Vale

Saxby Downs

Bluff Downs

Maggieville

Wollogorang

MallapunyahSprings

Strathhaven

Violet Vale

Border Downs

Shelburne Bay

Mount Douglas

Thurloo Downs

Millers Creek

DynevorDowns

Clifton Hills

Pandie Pandie Keeroongooloo

Tarlton Downs

GregoryDowns

Saltbush Park

Austral Downs

Miranda Downs

Calvert Hills

Marina Plains

Batavia Downs

Lorella Spring

Mount Margaret

Kangaroo Hills

Abingdon Downs

Rutland Plains

Cordillo Downs

Mount Sturgeon

Chudleigh Park

Mount MulgraveMcArthur River

DavenportDowns

Mount Lyndhurst

Cresswell Downs

MountRavenswood

Diamantina Lakes

Roxborough Downs

Buckingham Downs

Mount Elsie

Augustus Downs

Mount Mulyah

Bulloo Downs

Galway Downs

Marion Downs

Glenormiston

Strathfillan

Nappa Merrie

Durham Downs

Mount Howitt

Barkly Downs

Westmoreland

Wrotham Park

Tara

Bell

Weipa

Miles

Tieri

Guyra

Urunga

Sarina

Bourke

Kyogle

Wondai

Howard

Aramac

Winton

Boulia

Cooroy

Wandoan

Capella

Gayndah

Wee Waa

Quilpie

Mossman

Clifton

Bonalbo

Ashford

Woomera

Baradine

Jandowae

Mitchell

Eidsvold

Theodore

Richmond

Silkwood

Dimbulah

Emu Park

Warialda

Wallumbilla

Bellingen

St George

Longreach

Gracemere

Cloncurry

Home Hill

Umbakumba

Numbulwar

Hope ValeKowanyama

Andamooka

Woolgoolga

Augathella

Barcaldine

Georgetown

Pormpuraaw

Dirranbandi

Tin Can Bay

Julia Creek

Roxby Downs

Collarenebri

White Cliffs

Esk

Giru

Oakey

Tambo

Bluff

Tiaro

Surat

Monto

Moura

Alpha

Tully

Texas

Iluka

Boonah

Uralla

Kilcoy

Yuleba

Injune

Taroom

Dysart

Marian

Ingham

Bamaga

Murgon

Tingha

Goondiwindi

Bingara

Babinda

Attunga

Manilla

Walgett

Glenden

Halifax

Croydon

Karumba

Aurukun

Gin Gin

Proston

Nanango

Maclean

Dorrigo

Barraba

Cardwell

Delungra

Thangool

Boggabri

NarrabriBundarra

Goodooga MungindiYelarbon

BlackallCalliope

Duaringa

Clermont

Seaforth

Cooktown

Yirrkala

Angurugu

Rubyvale

Baralaba

Childers

Yarraman

Jimboomba

Biggenden

Wilcannia

Coonamble

Bendemeer

Glenreagh

InglewoodKillarney

Hughenden

Normanton

Camooweal

Doomadgee

Goondiwindi

Nhulunbuy

Alyangula

HerbertonRavenshoe

Burketown

Springsure

Brewarrina Evans Head

Stanthorpe

Cunnamulla

Beaudesert

Millmerran

Pittsworth

Blackwater

Walkerston

Proserpine

Gordonvale

Borroloola

Woorabinda

Mundubbera

CrowsNest

Wallangarra

Leigh Creek

Mullumbimby

Charleville

Miriam Vale

Palm Island

Middlemount

AlstonvilleTenterfield

Mount Morgan

Finch Hatton

Ocean Shores

Thargomindah

Cecil Plains

Mount Larcom

Airlie Beach

Mount Garnet

Collinsville

Tannum Sands

Mission Beach

Lockhart River

Thursday Island

Hamilton Island

Lightning Ridge

Nambour

Ballina

Bargara

Ayr

Roma

Bowen

GoondiwindiTalwoodToobeah

Chinchilla

Deepwater

Bushland Beach

Moree

Dalby

Yamba

Casino

Gatton

Gympie

Grafton

Warwick

Biloela

Emerald Yeppoon

Mareeba

SawtellGunnedah

Armidale

Inverell

Bongaree

Kingaroy

Deeragun

Atherton

Moranbah

Byron Bay

Innisfail

Mount Isa

Caboolture

Glen Innes

Maryborough

Murwillumbah

Port DouglasTrinity Beach

ChartersTowers

BUNDABERG

MACKAY

CAIRNS

LISMORE

GLADSTONE

CALOUNDRA

HERVEY BAY

ROCKHAMPTON

COFFS HARBOUR

NOOSA HEADS

TOOWOOMBA

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Carvedby time Words: Emma George


It’s taken millions of centuries to create the unusual beauty of Western Australia’s unique rock formations, some of which have only been discovered in recent decades.

Seeing the beauty and hearing the acoustics of Cathedral Gorge,

feeling the rough sandstone beehives, viewing the changing colours

of the Pinnacles at sunset, discovering crystals beneath the surface

and exploring ancient aboriginal rock art are Outback experiences

you will treasure.

26-29 _Ancient Carved by Nature.indd 26 29/05/12 3:12 PM


The Bungle Bungles, Purnululu National Park One of Western Australia’s most fascinating

landmarks and the ultimate place for an

Outback adventure is the Bungle Bungle

Range, in the World Heritage-listed

Purnululu National Park.

The 4WD trip in is just the start of the

journey, as once you arrive, a hidden world

of gorges and pools, surrounded rocks and

fan palms lie waiting to be explored.

If you are saving your dollars for a

helicopter flight, then this is the place to

splurge as it’s only from the air that you

can truly appreciate the size of the 350

million-year-old national park, covering

nearly 240,000 hectares.

The orange and black stripes of the

massive sandstone formations (which

took us so long to navigate by foot), looked

tiny from the air and it was only then we

could appreciate the true vastness and

extraordinary nature of the landscape.

Although there are many unique formations

in the Bungle Bungle Range, Cathedral

Gorge’s natural amphitheatre is a standout

with its astonishing geological formations

and amazing acoustics. The Gorge

is accessed via a moderate 4km

return trail through the sandstone

beehive formations.

Fact Box:Location: Purnululu

National Park is located in the north east of the Kimberly Region, approximately 300km from Kununurra.

Access: 4WD access only and the national park is open during the dry season (April– October).

Accommodation: Bungle Bungle Bush Camp (operated by East Kimberley Tours).

APT’s Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge, Walardi and Kurrajong campgrounds.

WA’s top five ancient formations

The Bungle Bungles are one of Western Australia’s most fascinating landmarks



Ancient Wave Rock, Hyden The towering granite breaker of Wave Rock is one of Western Australia’s most recognisable attractions. The natural replica of an almost perfect wave immortalised in stone, stretches 100m and stands 15m high.

It’s believed this amazing formation of multi-coloured granite is more than 2,700 million years in the making.

Venture further into the surrounding landscape and you’ll discover a huge variety of geological features, many which are also the subject of fascinating indigenous dreamtime stories and the site of beautiful indigenous rock art.

A bushwalk around wave rock will reveal many native flowers and birds. During the spring, nature transforms the area into

a dazzling show of wildflowers, the most famous being a brilliant carpet of everlastings, which cover the land in pinks, whites and yellows.

Mount Augustus, Mount Augustus National Park As you drive along the red, spinifex laden, iron-rich

country, Mt Augustus dominates the arid shrubland

providing an amazing sight from over 100km away.

It’s no wonder you can see this geological marvel from

afar as it’s twice the size of Uluru and takes the title of

the world’s largest rock monolith.

Indigenous rock art decorates the caves at the

mountain’s base with the rock estimated to be 1,750

million years old.

If you’re an experienced hiker, the summit is a 12km

return journey but for an ideal photo opportunity,

Emu Hill Lookout (5km west of the park boundary) is

spectacular at sunset.

Mt Augustus has many changing faces and the best

way to view them is by taking the 49km circuit along

Burringurrah Drive. From here you can access rocky

creek gorges, caves, Aboriginal rock engravings, picnic

sites, walk trails and view a variety of wildlife.

Fact Box:Location: 3km from Hyden, a 4½ hour drive east from Perth.

Access: All year with premium wildflower viewing from August– November.

Accommodation: Wave Rock Caravan Park, local motels, farm stays and historic pubs.

Fact Box:Location: 850km

from Perth, midway

between the Great

Northern and

North West Coastal

highways.

Access: 2WD vehicles

permitted. Best visited

in cooler months April–

November.

Accommodation: Camping is not

permitted at the

national park. Visitors

can stay at Mount

Augustus Outback

Tourist Park or Cobra

Bangemall Inn.

Lake Cave is a stunning crystal wonderland

Mount Augustus is the world’s largest rock monolith

Wave Rock is the natural replica of an almost perfect wave

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The Pinnacles, Nambung National Park Easily accessible from Perth, the Pinnacles are one of Australia’s most unique landscapes. Thousands of incredible limestone pillars rise eerily out of the yellow quartz sand at Nambung National Park.

Driving around and wandering through the Pinnacles is a surreal experience. The formations vary in size from about 10cm to almost 4m tall and you can’t help but touch and feel your way around the wondrous spires.

The Pinnacles Desert is best seen at dawn or dusk when they cast long, strange shadows over the rippling yellow sand dunes. Although the desert teems with wildlife, most of the animals are nocturnal. You may see western grey kangaroos, emus and many sorts of reptiles and birds like black-shouldered kites hanging around the peculiar stones.

Caves, Margaret River Although renowned for its fine wines and

natural produce, the Margaret River region

houses some of Australia’s most unique and

stunning caves.

The sheer size and beauty of the caves,

which are adorned with dazzling crystals,

stalactites, stalagmites and underground

lakes, will take your breath away. Although

there are over 150 caves in the area, only a

few are open to the public.

Three of the best caves, Lake, Mammoth and

Jewel are easily accessible but be prepared to

tackle a few stairs if you want to explore the

depths of the caves.

Mammoth Cave is an impressive, gothic-like

cave, which is often visited by paleontologists

who come to unlock its secrets about the

region’s ancient past. The cave reveals a fascinating amount about local flora, fauna and climate. There are even fossilised remains of a Thylacine (Tasmanian tiger) and a Zygomaturas (a huge wombat-like creature).

Originally named the ‘Dawn of Creation’, and at 500m long and 30m deep, Mammoth Cave is truly spectacular especially in winter when the natural light bounces off the winter stream and cave formations.

Lake Cave is a stunning crystal wonderland, with a reflective lake inside the cave that mirrors the delicate formations above. The cave is renowned for its treasured ‘Suspended Table’, a massive column of calcite weighing in excess of five tonne, which hovers

a few centimetres above the lake.

Jewel Cave is Western Australia’s largest

show cave and one of its most spectacular.

It’s home to one of the longest straw

stalactites in any tourist cave in the world,

which hangs 5.4m from the ceiling. The

caverns of Jewel Cave sink to a depth of 42m

and stretch 1.9km.

Fact Box:Location: 245km north of Perth (near Cervantes).

Access: Year-round, with spectacular wildflowers blooming from August– October.

Accommodation: Caravan parks, motels, units.

More InformationFor further information about holidaying in Western Australia visit www.westernaustralia.com

Camping in Western Australia’s natural areas is a special experience. Selected campgrounds from across the state can now be booked online – visit www.dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds

Fact Box:Location: 275km south of Perth.

Access: Any time of the year. A Grand Tour Pass is available, allowing visitors access to all three caves for $48 per adult and $22 per child.

Accommodation: Caravan parks to five star lodgings.

The Pinnacles Desert is best seen at dawn or dusk

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1: Gosse Bluff, West MacDonnell Ranges, NT

2: BurleyRockHole,Litchfield National Park, NT

3: Katherine Gorge, Katherine, NT

4: Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), NT

I f taking a road trip is a great Australian

dream, then driving from Darwin to

Alice Springs through some of the

nation’s most spectacular country in a

camper, complete with all the mod-cons,

is the ideal way to make it come true.

We decided to take a week off, chill

out and explore the heart of our vast brown

land. It was a holiday unlike any other – jam

packed with amazing experiences, breathtaking

landscapes and colourful characters.

Our home for the next six days would be

a beloved Maui motor home. For a couple of

30-somethings, it was perhaps an unusual choice

for a holiday, but we were free, independent and

able to go wherever the wind took us.

Our only restriction was off-road driving as we

had the luxury model camper complete with toilet,

shower and mini-bar style fridge, rather than the

go-anywhere model.

And we had a plan. We’d tackle the 1,500km

of highway from Darwin to Alice, also known as

the Explorer’s Way, and visit some of the lesser-

known attractions along the way. Devils Marbles,

Daly Waters Pub, Barrow Creek and the Devils

Pebbles were all on the agenda. The Explorer’s

Way follows the route of John McDouall Stuart,

a famous Australian explorer who was the first

to traverse the continent in 1862 from Adelaide

to Darwin.

After a quick orientation at the Darwin depot,

we were both instantly amazed at how much the

good folk at Maui had packed into our van. It even

had air-conditioning, a godsend for the 30-plus

degree nights we were sure to encounter during

our visit to the red heart of Australia.

On the road in the Aussie Outback

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30-36 _Drive the explorers way.indd 30 30/05/12 11:30 AM


Red HeartThrough the

Words: Ingrid Sanders Photos: Tourism NT

Drive

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TONT028c_GoCamp_Kakadu_HP_FA.indd 1 4/04/12 11:27 AM



One of our first stops on the road was at

Daly Waters Pub. It’s a famous landmark

in the NT. Located about 3km off

the track, otherwise known as the

Stuart Highway, it is a sight to see.

If you are on a mission to get to

your destination, it would be

easy to forgo a stop here. This

detour is one that many don’t

bother with, but my advice

is to take the turn off – it’s a

fabulous place to visit.

If you’ve been to Birdsville or

Barrow Creek, you’ll have a good

idea of what to find here, but this

little Outback pub is an icon in the

Territory and for good reason. Built in

1893 by early pioneers, life here would have

been tough, but today the quirky collection of

bank notes, coins, thongs, T-shirts and other

memorabilia takes pride of place, well, all over

this historic stone pub.

Even with the layers of dust, the collections

provide plenty to look at and chat about with

fellow travellers. I’m sure there have been many

visitors who have popped in for a quiet beer, only

to find themselves immersed in conversation with

one or two of the locals and fellow travellers, and

end up staying the night.

1: WangiFalls,LitchfieldNationalPark,NT

2: StandleyChasm,NT

3: ChambersPillar,NT

2

3

The rivers and waterholes are filled to the

brim after recent rains and the barren eucalyptus trees have a

full head of hair again after a long dry season

Daly Waters Pub has a certain Outback charm,

a welcoming aura. Whether it is the array of

passport photos on the wall or the enchanting

lilt of the friendly Irish barman ready for a yarn,

I’m sure you’ll find yourself staying for more than

one beer at this pub.

A little further south at Dunmurra, we fuelled

up with diesel – at $1.75 a litre, our large and

rather empty fuel tank was replenished. But

even getting fuel in the Territory is an experience.

Where else would you see a full-grown Brahman

bull watching you wash the car windscreen?

There’s not much else at Dunmurra, other than

a servo and fast food top up, but we’re told that

the local wildlife do often pop in for a look at the

customers.

The change in scenery heading south on the

Explorer’s Way (Stuart Highway) is quite dramatic.

It starts in the tropical north of Darwin, where

leafy palms and lush green grass, soft like a

cushioning mattress, contrast with the white and

yellow frangipani flowers the size of small saucers

that line the streets.

TONT028c_GoCamp_Kakadu_HP_FA.indd 1 4/04/12 11:27 AM



Fact File Getting thereThe Explorer’s Way joins Darwin to Adelaide. You can start your trip at either end.

When to goThe Northern Territory is so large it covers two very distinct climate zones. The Red Centre has a semi-arid climate and experiences the rest of Australia’s four typical seasons. In the Tropical North, there is an average year-round temperature of 32 degrees celsius, with greater levels of humidity over the traditional summer months of November to February.

Where to camp The main centres to stock up on provisions are Adelaide, Port Augusta, Coober Pedy, Alice Springs, Tennant Creek, Katherine and Darwin, but there are a number of roadhouses and petrol stations interspersed along the route.

Most campsites have camping fees which help pay for the upkeep of the area and these are often payable via the honesty system upon entry to the park. Idyllic locations to set up your tent or roll out the swag along the Explorer’s Way track include Karlu Karlu Conservation Park, Edith Falls, Umbrawarra Gorge and Rainbow Valley Conservation Park.

More information www.adventurealltheway.com.au

The grass remains as vibrant heading

down the track, but rich red ochre-coloured

termite mounds begin to dot the landscape.

The rivers and waterholes are filled to the

brim after recent rains and the barren

eucalyptus trees have a full head of hair

again after a long dry season.

Heading further south, around Elliott

and Three Ways, the landscape changes

again and the road becomes flat and

straight. Road trains become few and far

between and there is the occasional herd

of Brahman cattle meandering beside

the road, while up above, Whistling Kites

circle in the thermals, searching for their

next meal.

The dense leafy bush becomes more

and more sparse and the trees increasingly

shorter. Several sections of bush are

reminiscent of the southern coastline

but others remain iconically NT. By far

the tallest landmarks on the horizon

are the repeater stations that stand tall

and contrast starkly with their natural

surrounds.

By day three, we make it to Tenant Creek.

The trusty Maui purrs away, clicking up the

miles as we slip in another travelling CD.

We feel we’ve left the confines of everyday

hum-drum and the sun is beginning to set,

casting a soft yellow hue on the landscape

of small, white trunked gums and oddly

shaped termite mounds. It really feels like

we are at the heart of what historically

1: Red Bank Gorge, NT

2: Alice Springs, NT

helped shape Australia’s pioneering past.

Many people forget, or don’t even know, the

history of John McDouall Stuart, one of the

country’s early explorers. Without him, the

telegraph line built in 1872 from Adelaide

to Darwin, revolutionising communication

between England to Australia, would never

have been possible.

Tennant Creek isn’t perhaps a town

where you would consider spending your

entire holiday, but the sights around here

are definitely worth stopping for.

We leave Tennant Creek behind and

begin the final leg of our journey to Alice

Springs. The Maui van has been our home

away from home for the past five days.

We’ve had a taste of the breadth and

expanse of the Northern Territory and are

a little sad to see the back of our trusty van.

The Explorer’s Way continues down to

Adelaide, but that’s for another time.

1

2


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Hittinga high note

Words and photos: Kara Murphy

Two weekends per year, visitors to Undara Volcanic

National Park experience an eruption of song that

flows through part of the landscape, mixing with the

solos of blue-winged kookaburras, magpies and singing

honeyeaters.

A pied currawong exits from a curtain of illuminated

eucalypt leaves, singing and flying over stage left just

as the pianist strikes her first keys. The time is 5:45pm,

just on sunset, and the few dozen other eucalypts in the

audience share the spotlight, wearing similarly golden-

hued costumes.

The trees aren’t the only ones present for Sydney-based

company Opera Bites’ performance of The Fairy Queen,

an anonymous libretto loosely based on Shakespeare’s

A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The 300-seat amphitheatre

is currently holding 200+ human patrons – some opera

aficionados and others wholly unversed in this art form

but here for the ambience, novelty and excuse to dress

up like a nymph or fairy.

Aside from the fairy costume, which I forgot to bring

along, I definitely fall within the latter category. I’ve heard

‘Nessun dorma’ plenty of times (and always love it), but

I’m pretty sure the last time I attended an opera was

20 years ago, when my London study abroad program

syllabus demanded my presence at a performance of Bizet’s

Carmen. Too exhausted, perhaps, from a full day of classes

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1: An opera performance begins as the sun sets over Undara Volcanic National Park.

2: Hungry visitors to Undara Experience enjoy fried eggs and more at a bush brekkie.

3: Rock-wallabies are often sighted in Undara Volcanic National Park.

4: An Undara Experience guest relaxes next to his rental campervan (a two-berth Apollo Euro Tourer) in one of the campground’s powered sites.

My husband and I try both post-

opera dining options but retire early

to our two-berth Apollo Euro Tourer

campervan each evening so we can rise

with the relentless North Queensland

sun and make tracks along a few of the

park’s eight self-guided bushwalks during the

day’s cooler hours. On our first morning, we visit

the information carriage near campground reception,

the point of departure for several walks, including the

2.3km Bluff Circuit, which climbs a small granite knoll

south west of the lodge and seems a perfect pre-brekkie

endeavour.

The silence of the still sleepy track is broken only by

birdsong, the rustle of a rock-wallaby crouching in the

scrub, and the hum of a helicopter on a scenic flight.

From the bluff’s sizeable boulders, we peer over the

campground and lodge, both nestled within the patchy

shade the extensive, wooded lava plains provide. We know

that somewhere out there, beyond camp and hidden from

our current vantage, is the Undara lava tube, one of the

longest lava tube cave systems in the world.

Approximately 190,000 years ago, an active shield

volcano bellowed, erupting and spewing molten lava that

flowed more than 90km to the north and 160km to the

north west. Rivers of lava confined to a valley cooled and

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to make sense of the French dialogue and singing, my main

impressions were thus: some of the music was fun, and a

lady in red died at the end. (Good thing I didn’t have to

write an essay about it!)

Last night’s performance, while lacking this evening’s

sun-kissed ambience due to rain and a subsequent late

start, proved a treat. Opera Bites’ entree piece was an

abridged adaptation of Carmen ...in English. At last, I

understood the plot. And its brief duration (of about an

hour) significantly enhanced my appreciation.

Of course, the outdoor venue, surrounded by Undara

Volcanic National Park and a short walk from one’s

campsite, is what makes attending these performances

particularly enticing. I don’t often have a reason to bring

– let alone actually wear – anything even slightly fancy

when I go camping, so donning a long skirt and dabbling

with make-up after a full day exploring the national

park’s walking trails and lava tubes feels decadent and

rather thrilling. Most guests make an effort to spruce

up, but since we’re in a sometimes muddy environment,

no one appears to heed anyone’s shoe selection, thank

goodness. Afterwards, guests can return to their

campsites for some self-catered tucker or delay the

inevitable transformation back into camping attire by

sitting down to a three-course meal at Fettler’s Iron

Pot Bistro.

Opera in the Outback



crusted over, forming a roof, while the lava below

drained outwards, creating hollow tubes. Thanks

to the collapsed roofs of weaker sections, humans

and wildlife have access to some tubes’ cool, damp

interiors – although the former are only permitted

entry on a guided tour.

The tube’s course is marked by ribbons of

emerald-green vine thicket visible from vantages

such as the Kalkani Crater rim, located 13km from

the campground and accessible via a 2.5km return

bushwalk – tomorrow morning’s planned exercise.

Continuing along our current path, we descend

from the bluff and turn left onto the Swamp Track,

which leads us directly into bustling Ringers Camp

and the bush brekkie awaiting. The short walk

has managed to increase my appetite tenfold,

and the aromas of bread toasting over an open

fire, eggs frying on a barbie, and coffee and billy

tea brewing inspire my stomach to begin its own

tenor aria. ‘None shall sleep ‘til you feed me!’

‘None shall sleep ‘til you do!’ it cries. Thankfully,

brekkie is forthcoming, and most fellow campers

are already awake.

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GROOTE EYLANDT

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MORNINGTONISLAND

Hinchinbrook Island

Vanderlin Island

Moa (Clarke) I

Bribie Island

Marchinbar Island

Bentinck Island

Badu (Mulgrave) I


Saibai I


Raragala Island

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Townshend Island

Magnetic Island

Great Palm Island

Great Keppel Island

Mabuiag I

Maria Island

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Whitsunday Island

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Guluwuru Island


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South Stradbroke I

Scawfell Island

Lizard Island

Dunk Island

Heron Island

Lloyd Bay

HERVEYBAY

Temple Bay

ArnhemBay

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BROAD SOUND

Caledon Bay

Port Clinton

Weymouth Bay

LIMMEN BIGHT


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Rockingham Bay

SHOALWATER BAY

Bowling Green Bay

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Cape York

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Cape Byron

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Cape Arnhem

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Cape Keerweer

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Mt Drummond

Mt Tabletop

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Mt Finnigan

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Bairds Table Mount

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Birdsville

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Elura Mine

Parachilna

Tibooburra

Marlborough

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Mount Perry


Mount Molloy

Weilmoringle

BalfesCreek

Fords Bridge

Torrens Creek

Gilbert River

Phosphate Hill

Mount Surprise

Lakeland

Burren Junction

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Olympic Dam


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Lake Nash

Lyndhurst

Gallipoli

Seven Emu

Lakefield

Avon Downs

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Frankfield

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Mootwingee

Nockatunga

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Lucy Creek

Ooratippra

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Wando Vale

Meadowbank

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Alexandria

Strathburn

Moolawatana

Murra Murra

Durrandella

Breadalbane

Argadargada

Numil Downs

Riversleigh

Donors Hill

Delta Downs


Frome Downs

Moray Downs

Natal Downs

Malbon Vale

Saxby Downs

Bluff Downs

Maggieville

Wollogorang

MallapunyahSprings

Strathhaven

Violet Vale

Border Downs

Shelburne Bay

Mount Douglas

Thurloo Downs

Millers Creek

DynevorDowns

Clifton Hills


Tarlton Downs

GregoryDowns

Saltbush Park

Austral Downs

Miranda Downs

Calvert Hills

Marina Plains

Batavia Downs

Lorella Spring

Mount Margaret

Kangaroo Hills

Abingdon Downs

Rutland Plains

Cordillo Downs

Mount Sturgeon

Chudleigh Park


DavenportDowns

Mount Lyndhurst

Cresswell Downs

MountRavenswood

Diamantina Lakes

Roxborough Downs

Buckingham Downs

Mount Elsie

Augustus Downs

Mount Mulyah

Bulloo Downs

Galway Downs

Marion Downs

Glenormiston

Strathfillan

Nappa Merrie

Durham Downs

Mount Howitt

Barkly Downs

Westmoreland

Wrotham Park

Tara

Bell

Weipa

Miles

Tieri

Guyra

Urunga

Sarina

Bourke

Kyogle

Wondai

Howard

Aramac

Winton

Boulia

Cooroy

Wandoan

Capella

Gayndah

Wee Waa

Quilpie

Mossman

Clifton

Bonalbo

Ashford

Woomera

Baradine

Jandowae

Mitchell

Eidsvold

Theodore

Richmond

Silkwood

Dimbulah

Emu Park

Warialda

Wallumbilla

Bellingen

St George

Longreach

Gracemere

Cloncurry

Home Hill

Umbakumba

Numbulwar

Hope ValeKowanyama

Andamooka

Woolgoolga

Augathella

Barcaldine

Georgetown

Pormpuraaw

Dirranbandi

Tin Can Bay

Julia Creek

Roxby Downs

Collarenebri

White Cliffs

Esk

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Oakey

Tambo

Bluff

Tiaro

Surat

Monto

Moura

Alpha

Tully

Texas

Iluka

Boonah

Uralla

Kilcoy

Yuleba

Injune

Taroom

Dysart

Marian

Ingham

Bamaga

Murgon

Tingha

Goondiwindi

Bingara

Babinda

Attunga

Manilla

Walgett

Glenden

Halifax

Croydon

Karumba

Aurukun

Gin Gin

Proston

Nanango

Maclean

Dorrigo

Barraba

Cardwell

Delungra

Thangool

Boggabri

NarrabriBundarra


BlackallCalliope

Duaringa

Clermont

Seaforth

Cooktown

Yirrkala

Angurugu

Rubyvale

Baralaba

Childers

Yarraman

Jimboomba

Biggenden

Wilcannia

Coonamble

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Glenreagh

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Hughenden

Normanton

Camooweal

Doomadgee

Goondiwindi

Nhulunbuy

Alyangula

HerbertonRavenshoe

Burketown

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Stanthorpe

Cunnamulla

Beaudesert

Millmerran

Pittsworth

Blackwater

Walkerston

Proserpine

Gordonvale

Borroloola

Woorabinda

Mundubbera

CrowsNest

Wallangarra

Leigh Creek

Mullumbimby

Charleville

Miriam Vale

Palm Island

Middlemount


Mount Morgan

Finch Hatton

Ocean Shores

Thargomindah

Cecil Plains

Mount Larcom

Airlie Beach

Mount Garnet

Collinsville

Tannum Sands

Mission Beach

Lockhart River

Thursday Island

Hamilton Island

Lightning Ridge

Nambour

Ballina

Bargara

Ayr

Roma

Bowen


Chinchilla

Deepwater

Bushland Beach

Moree

Dalby

Yamba

Casino

Gatton

Gympie

Grafton

Warwick

Biloela

Emerald Yeppoon

Mareeba

SawtellGunnedah

Armidale

Inverell

Bongaree

Kingaroy

Deeragun

Atherton

Moranbah

Byron Bay

Innisfail

Mount Isa

Caboolture

Glen Innes

Maryborough

Murwillumbah


ChartersTowers

BUNDABERG

MACKAY

CAIRNS

LISMORE

GLADSTONE

CALOUNDRA

HERVEY BAY

ROCKHAMPTON

COFFS HARBOUR

NOOSA HEADS

TOOWOOMBA

MAROOCHYDORE

Deepwater

Deepwater

TOWNSVILLE

TWEED HEADS

IPSWICH

GOLD COAST

BRISBANE

Alpurrurulam

Wujal Wujal

Balgal Beach

Midge Point

Byfield

Agnes Water

Gununa

Misima I



DS

200

2000

4000

2000

4000

4000

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A R A F U R A S E A

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Goodenough I

Fergusson I

Normanby I


Undara Volcanic national Park

Fact File Getting thereUndara Experience is located 275km (about four hours) south west of Cairns. Several routes are available. One is to follow the Bruce Hwy south to Gordonvale and turn right onto the Gillies Hwy to the Atherton Tablelands. Continue towards Ravenshoe, following signs for Mount Garnet. Press on towards Mount Surprise. About 17km along the Gulf Development Rd, turn left towards Undara. After 6km, you’ll reach a fork in the road. For Undara Experience, take the right-hand fork; for the Kalkani day-use area, take the left-hand fork.

When to goThe cooler, drier months from April to August are considered the most comfortable time to visit Undara Volcanic National Park. The period from late October until late March is typically hot, humid and wet. To catch the next Opera in the Outback, plan your visit for October 4-6, 2012; the Outback Country Rock and Blues Festival is scheduled for March, 2013.

camping Undara Experience, located within Undara Volcanic National Park, has 23 drive-up unpowered campsites (from $20 per night for up to five guests) and 29 powered van sites (from $30 per night). Permanent ‘swag’ tents (from $32 per night for two people) with lights and beds are also available. Phone 1800 990 992 or visit www.undara.com.au

Morewww.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/undara-volcanic www.queenslandholidays.com.au www.apollocamper.com


1: A hiker enjoys a morning bushwalk to the Bluff, Undara Volcanic National Park.

2: Billy tea and coffee are one of the highlights of Undara Experience’s bush brekkie.


MitchellTQ.indd 1 29/05/12 3:21 PM


Oasisin the Centre Words: Heidrun Rodach

Photos: Heidrun Rodach and Michael Duffy

Sheer orange cliff faces tower over a

near permanent waterhole at Ormiston

Gorge’s most spectacular feature, a deep

passage carved through a quartzite range by the

floodwaters of Ormiston Creek.

These strong colours and rock formations have

inspired countless artists since the area opened to

tourists in the 1940s. Each time we visit the Red

Centre, we go back to this quiet oasis located west

of Alice Springs in the West MacDonnell Ranges.

The best way to appreciate the scenery is to

follow one of the marked trails. A 20 minute walk

to the Ghost Gum Lookout starts behind the

visitor centre. It is a steep climb to a gum perched

precariously on a ledge overlooking the gorge. A

1.5 hour loop continues along the rugged rock

walls further into the gorge before a climb down to

the water level for the return to the campground.

At the time of our visit the gorge was filled with

water and a family was stranded on the other side

of the gorge. The cliffs were too steep to climb and

it was too far to retrace their steps back through

the pound that late in the afternoon. They had to

cross the icy water reaching their necks to make it

back to the campground during daylight. The same

walk was on our agenda for the next day.

The 7km Ormiston Pound Track starts near

the campground, crossing the river before it leads

up to the steep cliffs. A colony of black footed

rock wallabies can be seen early in the morning.

They are quite timid and are only too happy to

pose. Sure footed they chase each other on the

overhanging rocks where there is a sheer drop to

the river below.

We continued to cross the slopes of the ancient

limestone range. The heavy rains had not only filled

the gorge but brought new life to the terrain. Spiky

spinifex grass filled the canvas in a subtle green,

1: Views to Mt Sonder from Hilltop Lookout.

2: Wildflowers in full bloom after the rains.

3: Black footed rock wallabies are happy to pose early in the morning.

4: The track to Glen Helen Gorge is lined with tufted spinifex grass.

5: A dingo sneaking around the perimeter of the campground.

intermingled with desert blooms in purple, red,

yellow and pink.

On various short detours you can appreciate the

views before you arrive at the floor of the Pound,

a large level area enclosed by the mountain

ranges. Numerous waterholes

remained of what must have been

a raging river only a short while

back. Massive river gums stood

defiant of the torrential water

which obviously washed out

the gorge and deposited tons

of sand in the riverbed. Debris

was still hanging on the trees

indicating the height of the

water during the recent rains.

We stopped for a picnic and a

short dip in the rather cold water

while admiring the colourful walls of

the gorge. The range is believed to be between

310 and 340 million years old and emerged as

a result of a massive earth movement. It once

stood over 3,000m high before erosion formed

many of the famous gaps, waterholes, gorges and

chasms over time.

We ventured on to the mouth of the gorge.

Normally we could complete the circle by walking

through the gorge and return via the main

Ormiston Gorge is a quiet oasis in the Red Centre

2 3

42-45 _Oasis in the centre.indd 42 29/05/12 3:23 PM


Explore

1

3 5

4



waterhole close to the visitor centre. But having

observed the predicament of the family the day

before, we decided to retrace our steps.

The waterhole at Ormiston Gorge is ideal

for swimming in the warmer months. It is also a

favourite spot for birds. Spinifex pigeons hurried

through the camp looking for seeds. The Port

Lincoln parrot devoured the melons found along

the riverbed and the grey crowned babblers

squawked like monkeys in the bushes. A whistling

kite circled over the waterhole in search of prey.

Ormiston Gorge is an important refuge for

the central rock-rat and the long-tailed dunnart,

a small carnivorous marsupial active at night.

Dingoes are frequent visitors to the waterhole and

sneak around the perimeter of the campground.

‘At night put everything away,’ warns the camp

manager Kerry. ‘The dingoes take shoes, towels

and are particularly interested in your rubbish.’

Park rangers conduct regular information

evenings where you sit around the campfire and

listen to the ranger talk about the fauna, flora and

the history of the area while dingo howls echo

through the gorge.

The barbecue area at the campground is a real

meeting place. While you cook you can exchange

tips and hints with fellow travellers, some who

came to Ormiston Gorge for a day and stayed

for a week.

Ormiston Gorge is also a stop on the Larapinta

Trail, a 223km walking track along the backbone of

the West MacDonnell Ranges. It starts at the Alice

Springs Telegraph Station and ends at Mt Sonder.

The trail is divided into 12 sections.

We decided to do section 10, a 9.9km walk to

Glen Helen Gorge. It is a windy and undulating

walk through a carpet of red soil dotted with

neatly arranged tufts of silver green spinifex grass.

On Hilltop Lookout we got a view of Mt Zeil, Mt

Sonder and Mt Razorback, the highest peaks in

the surrounding area.

From there we descended and crossed a

number of creeks before crossing the Finke River,

one of the oldest rivers in the world. It can turn

into a raging torrent of water after rains, its water

disappearing again underground into the artesian

basin which keeps the Outback supplied with

water. At the Trailhead Camping Area we pushed

on for another 3.5km to Glen Helen Resort and a

welcome cool drink.

Glen Helen is only one of six more or less

permanent waterholes along the 600km Finke

1: Orange Cliffs at Ormiston Gorge.

2: Old International Truck on the way to Glen Helen Gorge.

3: Spinifex pigeons sitting still for a change.

4: Ormiston Pound with views to the cliffs of the gorge.

5: A young family had to cross the icy waters at Ormiston Gorge.

2

1

3

Explore

The waterhole at Ormiston Gorge is ideal for swimming in the warmer

months – it is also a favourite spot for birds

River system. The waterhole was first used as a

watering point for horses and cattle in the 1880s.

Today it is a popular waterhole for visitors,

especially the hikers on the Larapinta Trail.

We had done our day’s walking and took the

offer for a shuttle back to our camp at Ormiston

Gorge. The golden orb of the sun slowly sank

illuminating the cliffs of the gorge in bright

orange. Across the sky, clouds glowed with

pinks and oranges providing us with another

spectacular Outback sunset.



4

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LAKE MACKAY

Lake Argyle

LakeAmadeus

Sylvester Lake

LakeWoods

Lake Wills

Tarrabool Lake

Lake Neale

Bilpa MoreaClaypan

Lake Macdonald

Lake Gregory

Lake Lewis

Lake White

De Burgh Lake

Lake Hopkins

LakeMachattie

Corella Lake

Lake Dennis

Lake Bennett

Lake Etamunbanie

Nongra Lake

Lake Buck

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805

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GROOTE EYLANDT

BATHURST ISLAND

MORNINGTONISLAND

Croker Island

Vanderlin Island

Marchinbar Island

Raragala IslandSouth Goulburn Island

Peron Island North

Maria Island

West I North Island

Guluwuru Island

Bremer Island

Fog Bay

FinkeBay

Anson Bay

Hyland Bay

ArnhemBay

BEAGLE GULF

Caledon Bay

Junction Bay

ChambersBay

LIMMEN BIGHT

BLUEMUDBAY

MelvilleBay

Port Bradshaw

VAN DIEMEN GULF

Mountnorris Bay

G U L F

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JOSEPH BONAPARTE GULF

Cape Arnhem

Cape Croker

Pearce Point

Cape Beatrice

Cape Fourcroy

Caution Point

Cape Van Diemen

Cape Wilberforce

Queens Channel

CLARENCE STRAIT

DUNDAS STRAIT

Milyakburra

Minyerri

Mt Samuel

Cape Londonderry

Katherine Gorge

Mt Hay

Mt Webb

Mt Theo

Kata Tjuta/Mt Olga

Mt Zeil

Mt Wells

Mt Cecil

Mt Bundey

Mt Liebig

Mt Parker

Mt Squires

Mt Leisler

Mt Hogarth

Mt Kathleen

Mt Tietkens

Mt Cockburn

Mt Davidson

Mt Junction

Mt Cockburn

Mt Drummond

Mt Laughlen

Mt Illbillee

Mt Greenwood

Mt Woodroffe

Mt Singleton

Mt Sir Thomas

Stevenson Peak

Uluru/Ayers Rock

Central Mount Wedge

Central Mount Stuart

Mt Evelyn (Garadbaluk)

Mt Howship

Mt Remarkable

Mt Farquharson

BoucautBay

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Robinson River

JAMES RANGES

Marla

Finke

Elsey

Balgo

Mimili

Bulman

Duchess

Abminga

Ti-TreeNturiya

Warrego

Dajarra

Areyonga

Atitjere

Wauchope

Maranboy

Bedourie

Dunmarra

Larrimah

Yarralin

Daguragu

Urandangi

Gunpowder

Lissadell

Birdsville

Burramurra

Hayes Creek

Daly Waters

Oombulgurri

The Granites

Bark Hut Inn

Barrow Creek

Haasts Bluff

Peppimenarti

South Alligator

Phosphate Hill

Renner Springs

Curtin Springs

Newcastle Waters

Kulgera

Erldunda

Kaltjiti(Fregon) Indulkana

(Iwantja)

Pukatja (Ernabella)

Three Ways

Rabbit Flat

Victoria River

Tanami

Wycliffe Well

Barkly

Wutunugurra

LarambaAileron

Willowra

Lake ArgyleVillage

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Bunda

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Legune

Tieyon

Yambah

Gorrie

Almora

Andado

Soudan

Indiana

Henbury

Jervois

Elkedra

Undilla

Alcoota

Benmara

Mainoru

Murranji

Wombungi

Auvergne

Newhaven

Anningie

Karunjie

Delamere

Willeroo

BeetalooLimbunya

WaterlooRosewood

Glengyle

AnnitowaGeorgina

Downs

Morstone

Bowthorn

Ringwood

Mount Ebenezer

Victoria River Downs

Ranken

Nicholson

Dorisvale

Tipperary

Idracowra

Maryfield

Goodparla

Mittiebah

Lawn Hill

Bing Bong

Todmorden

New Crown

Deep Well

Atartinga

Lake Nash

Gallipoli

Eva Downs

Seven Emu

O T DownsBroadmere

Avon Downs

Tobermorey

St Vidgeon

Ambalindum

Cooee Hill

Yelvertoft

Birrindudu

Mulga Park

Glen Helen

Mount Swan

Lucy Creek

Ooratippra

Thorntonia

Carandotta

Alexandria

Brunchilly

Scott Creek

Top Springs

Spirit Hill

Chilla Well

Sturt Creek

Ruby Plains

Agnes Creek

Angas Downs

Narwietooma

Alice Downs

Breadalbane

Argadargada

Riversleigh

Lilla Creek

Alroy Downs

Wollogorang

Ucharonidge

MallapunyahSprings

Tanumbirini

Hatches Creek

Gordon Downs

Flora Valley

Point Stuart

Bond Springs

Tanami Downs

SundayCreek

Dunham River

CarltonHill

Marion Downs

Glenormiston

Nathan River

Barkly Downs

Westmoreland

Billengarrah

Roper Valley

Bedford Downs

Mount Sanford

Granite Downs

Wallara Ranch

Mount Denison

Hidden Valley

Mistake Creek

Clifton Hills

Pandie Pandie

Tarlton Downs

GregoryDowns

Welbourn Hill

Austral Downs

McLaren Creek

Calvert Hills

Nutwood Downs Lorella Spring

Hamilton Downs

Horseshoe Bend

Brunette Downs

AnthonyLagoon

McArthur River

Emerald Springs

Vaughan Springs

Cresswell Downs

Supplejack Downs

Roxborough Downs

Buckingham Downs

Inverway

Rockhampton Downs

Bullita Outstation

Central Mount Wedge

Banka Banka

Powell Creek

Nguiu

Wyndham

Belyuen

Ngukurr

Papunya

Yuendumu

Gunbalanya(Oenpelli)

Lajamanu

Ali-Curung

Mintabie

Umbakumba

Numbulwar

Mataranka

Wadeye (Port Keats)

Kalkarindji

Pine Creek

Pirlangimpi

Timber Creek

Santa Teresa

Tennant Creek

Jabiru

Warmun(Turkey Creek)

Elliott

Warruwi

Yirrkala

Angurugu

Camooweal

Doomadgee

Minjilang

Nhulunbuy

Gapuwiyak

Batchelor

Alyangula

Burketown

Milikapiti

ManingridaMilingimbi

Nauiyu(Daly River)

Borroloola

Ramingining

Halls Creek

Hermannsburg

Adelaide River

Howard Springs

Barunga(Bamyili)

Yulara

Kaltukatjara(Docker River)

Galiwinku

Katherine

Mount Isa

Kununurra

Humpty Doo

Palmerston

Alice Springs

DARWIN

Cooinda

Nganmarriyanga

Alpurrurulam

Ampilatwatja

Mindibungu

Amata

Gununa

E A S T T I M O R

200

2000

T I M O R S E A

A R A F U R A S E A


ORMISTON GORGE

snowys.com.auAustralia’s #1 online camping&outdoors store

Free Delivery… Australia-wide!

Fact File Getting thereOrmiston Gorge is located 135km west of Alice Springs. Access is via Larapinta and Namatjira Drives. The campground is located 8km from the Ormiston Gorge turn-off on Namatjira Drive. The road is sealed but can be impassable after heavy rains. The park is accessible all year round but the cooler months (April–October) are more pleasant.

Swimming is allowed in the waterhole, but the water is extremely cold.

Where to campSolar powered hot showers – get in early before water runs out, gas barbecues, picnic tables.

Fees: $6.60 per person. Caretakers on site.

More informationPark & Wildlife Services of NT, Alice Springs: Ph: 08 8951 8211



o’BourkeBack

Words and photos: Lee Atkinson

46-49 _TimeslideBourke.indd 46 29/05/12 3:25 PM


MAIN IMAGE: Red dust highway, on the road to Gundabooka.

1: Darling River, Bourke.

Henry Lawson once said that to “know Bourke

is to know Australia”. But sheltering in the

shade of a rocky overhang at Gundabooka

National Park 50km south of Bourke, all I know is

that this is a pretty important place for the Ngemba

and Paakandji people, who came here in groups for a

millennia or more to dance up a storm, in this place they

called ‘stone country’.

You can almost hear the beat of the clapping sticks and the

gravelly sounds of the didgeridoo reverberate and echo around the

shallow cave as you gaze at the dancing figures painted in white on the red

rock wall. Wakakirri is the Ngemba word for dance, and the ‘shake-a-leg’ was

performed whenever people gathered together in the rust-red Gunderbooka

Ranges for ceremony. But this rock art gallery has more than just depictions

of dancing; the walls hold a record of all that was important to the people

who once roamed western NSW. Tools such as boomerangs and spears, and

stencils of stone axes decorate the wall of the cave, along with white emus,

hand stencils, and mysteriously swirling circular paintings, the symbolic

meanings left unexplained, perhaps lost in time.

The Mulareenya Creek rock art site is one of the best in outback NSW,

the ochre and pipeclay paintings vibrant and clear, and protected against

the blazing sun and driving rain by a large rock awning. To get there it’s a

20-minute walk across a pretty stone-strewn valley, rock-hopping across

dry creek beds and skirting small waterholes. It’s these waterholes and

creeks that brought the Ngemba and Paakandji to the ranges, according to

information supplied by National Parks, who say that “the mountain and

1

Timeslide

History strewn riverside camping



nearby Yanda Creek form part of an extensive

travel network that linked the mountain with

other waterholes, creeks and the Darling River”.

The Darling was part of the white people’s

travel network as well. Once lauded as a second

Mississippi, Bourke was a major river port back in

the 1870s when more than 100 paddle steamers

laden with bales of wool and other goods rode

the river all the way to the sea in South Australia.

There’s just one on this section of the river these

days, the PV Jandra, which takes tourists on a

short river cruise, but follow the track through

the Maritime Heritage Park on the north side

of the river and you’ll pass by the rusting ruins

of paddle steamers such as the PS Wave, left

to decay high on the river bank where it was

stranded by floods back in 1929 when water

levels dropped overnight. The 24km round

trip, which includes a number of historic sites

marked by interpretive storyboards dealing with

the history of the river, explorers and trade, is

detailed in the excellent guide to the area called

Back o’Bourke Mud Map Tours. The brochure is

free at the visitor centre and has detailed driving

(or walking) routes and is packed with interesting

snippets of history.

For more tales of Bourke’s glory days we head

to Back O’Bourke museum. Less a collection of

historical artefacts and more a gallery of stories

and legends, we learn where the phrase ‘Back

O’Bourke’ comes from (a poem by Will Ogilvie)

and look at the town and outback though the eyes

and words of writers such as Breaker Morant and

Henry Lawson. The $20 entry fee is a bit steep

considering some of the video installations were

not working during our visit and the cafe was

closed, but if you are a fan of Australian literature

and like discovering unsung outback heroes, you’ll

enjoy the exhibits.

Our mud map tour points us in the direction

of May’s Bend, which is described as “a lovely

1

2

53 4 6

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spot next to the river for camping” and sounds

too good to miss. To get there, we cross North

Bourke Bridge, one of the oldest lift bridges in

NSW. Despite the local legend that the bridge was

bent to skirt around the North Bourke Pub (sadly

since burnt down), the long sweeping approach

was curved because the bullock teams carting

loads of wool could not execute a sharp turn.

Half an hour later, after a rather bumpy cross-

country drive on a barely-defined track, we pull

up at May’s Bend beside the river, which is indeed

a ‘lovely spot’. We set up camp on the bank in a

clearing beside majestic river gums, throw in a

fishing line, and as the sun sets, we clamber down

the steep-sided bank to a small sandy beach and

1: Bourke Lift Bridge.

2: Mulareenya Creek Art Site, Gundabooka National Park.

3: Henry Lawson reckoned that “If you know Bourke, you know Australia”.

4: PV Jandra.

5: Lose yourself in the legends of the outback at the Back o’Bourke Centre.

6: Lookout over the Gunderbooka Range.



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Lake Eucumbene

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Lake Burragorang

Lake Kajarabie

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Lake Blanche

LakeAlexandrina

LakeCallabonna

Garnpung Lake

Lake Gregory

Lake Tyrrell

Lake Tandou

LakeGeorge

Lake Menindee

Lake Mungo

LakeVictoria

Mulurulu Lake

LakeHindmarsh

Poopelloe Lake

Travellers Lake

Lake MindonaPopiltah Lake

Lake Bonney

SaltLake

LakeBurrandong

Pitarpunga Lake

Peery Lake

Lake Ballyrogan

Lake Albacutya

Lake Wyara

The Coorong

Moornanyah Lake

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Lake Wivenhoe

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Port Jackson

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Shoalhaven Bight

Moreton Bay

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Cape Otway

Cape Banks

Cape Byron

Cape Moreton

Sugarloaf Point

Portland Bay

Mallacoota Inlet

WESTERN PORT

MtRobe

Mt Nurri

Mt Bryan

Mt Buller

Mt Bogong

Mt Exmouth

Bimberi Peak

St Mary Peak

Mt Kosciuszko

Tinderry Peak


Freeling Heights

Cameron Corner

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Bonshaw

Thallon

Wyandra

Coombah

Pilliga

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Burcher

TerowieDarnick

Bobadah

Booligal

Quambone

Enngonia

Balmoral

Alawoona

Cockburn

Coolabah

Toompine

CoolataiCumborah

Meringur

Naradhan

Gwabegar

Nymboida

Hill End

Peebinga

Pooncarie

Nevertire

Wanaaring

Condamine

Padthaway

Baryulgil

Silverton

Meandarra

Hermidale

Innamincka

Wanganella

Hungerford

Nindigully

Kumbarilla

Glenmorgan

Manna Hill

Mount Hope

Yantabulla

Elura Mine

Lake Bolac

Tibooburra

Robertstown

Weilmoringle

Fords Bridge

Swifts Creek

Patchewollock

Hotham Heights

Burren Junction

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Tartulla

Yarrawin

Caiwarro

Naryilco

Orientos

Etadunna

Humeburn

Innisvale

Arkaroola

Fort GreyBundaleer

Tobermory

Canegrass

Woolerina

Curnamona

Yancannia

Mootwingee

Nockatunga

Paddington

Moolawatana

Murra Murra


Frome Downs

Border Downs

Mount Mulyah

Bulloo Downs

Boree Plains

Moira Plains

Nappa Merrie

Thurloo Downs

DynevorDowns

Mount Lyndhurst

Oakbank Outstation

Hay

Bega

Tara

Bell

Keith

Junee

Burra

Cobar

Nhill

Ouyen

Berri

Guyra

Nyngan

Urunga

Terang

Kerang

Temora

Bourke

Kyogle

Kaniva

Loxton

Morgan

Cooroy

Yeoval

Finley

Goroke

Penola

Yarram

Birchip

Trundle

Ivanhoe

Trangie

Wee Waa

Heywood

Dunkeld

Jeparit

Rainbow

Lameroo

RenmarkMerbein

Clifton

Bonalbo

Ashford

MerriwaAberdeen

Holbrook

Bermagui

Charlton

Mathoura

Meningie

Culcairn

Oaklands

Sea Lake

Hillston

Quirindi

Wauchope

Baradine

Jandowae

Hopetoun

Waikerie

Pinnaroo

Warialda

GrenfellGoolgowi

Berrigan

St Arnaud

Rochester

Millicent

Tintinara Woomelang

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Warragul

Tullamore

Gilgandra

Bellingen

St George

Casterton

Underbool

Narromine

Nyah West

MerimbulaColeraine

Red Cliffs

Apollo Bay

Cann River

Canowindra

Murrurundi

Macksville

Woolgoolga

Bordertown

Swan Reach

Wedderburn

Naracoorte

Dirranbandi

Kingston SE

TailemBend

Murrayville

Coleambally

Derrinallum

SussexInlet

West Wyalong

Peterborough

Collarenebri

White Cliffs

Port Campbell

Coonabarabran

Crescent Head

Port Macdonnell

South West Rocks

Esk

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Yass

Omeo

Robe

Yenda

Oakey

LorneCowes

Euroa

Henty

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Scone

Surat

Texas

Iluka

Cohuna

Coolah

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Foster

Orbost

Tathra

Bright

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Cobram

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Goondiwindi

Oberon

Picton

Batlow

Maffra

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Koroit

Bingara

Bruthen

KynetonBombala

DunollyNarooma

Boorowa

Kapunda

Tahmoor

UngarieBlayney

Gulgong

Dunedoo

Old Bar

Wingham

Attunga

Manilla

Walgett

Barmera

Nanango

Maclean

Dorrigo

Barraba

Adelong

Kilmore

Delungra

Delegate

Mortlake

Willaura

Numurkah

Tocumwal

The Rock

Lockhart Gundagai

Coolamon

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Curlewis

Boggabri

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Dimboola

Karoonda

Yarraman

Menindee

Bundeena

Talbingo

Corryong

Edenhope

Beaufort

Barmedman

Wentworth

Jimboomba

Leongatha

Warburton

Inglewood

Jindabyne

Khancoban

Moulamein

Huskisson

BalranaldRobinvale

Jamestown Peak Hill

Tottenham

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Coonamble

Bendemeer

Glenreagh

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Goondiwindi

CANBERRA

Wangaratta

Rutherglen

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Crookwell

Braidwood

Adaminaby

Berridale

Rushworth

MansfieldAlexandra

Penshurst

Camperdown

Bulahdelah

Winchelsea

Myrtleford

Jerilderie

Bungendore

Narrandera

Gerringong

Condobolin

Wellington


Stanthorpe

Cunnamulla

Beaudesert

Millmerran

Pittsworth

CrowsNest

Gloucester

Tumbarumba

Nimmitabel

Beechworth

Daylesford

WallangarraMullumbimby

Tallangatta

Manangatang


Bonny Hills

Forest Hill

Paynesville

Werris Creek

Mount Beauty

Gulargambone

Ocean Shores

Thargomindah

Cecil Plains

Tuross Heads

Warracknabeal

Lake Cargelligo

Thredbo Village

Lightning Ridge

Harden-Murrumburrah

Forbes

Nambour

Kempsey

Ballina

Griffith

Portland

Ulladulla

Moe SaleColac

Tumut

Kiama


Chinchilla

Deepwater

Mallacoota

Hurstbridge

CorowaYar

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Young

Cowra

Taree

Moree

Dalby

Yamba

Nowra

Cooma

Echuca

Camden

Ararat

Leeton

Bowral

Parkes

Mudgee

Casino

Gatton

Morwell

StawellSeymour

Benalla

Kyabram

Grafton

Warwick

Horsham

Sawtell

Goulburn

Gunnedah

Pakenham

Richmond

Cessnock

Armidale

Inverell

Bongaree

Kingaroy

Hamilton

Mittagong

Swan Hill

Moss Vale

Singleton

Byron Bay

Traralgon

Bairnsdale

Deniliquin

Nelson Bay

Caboolture

Glen Innes

Castlemaine

Cootamundra Helensburgh

Kurri Kurri

Broken Hill

Healesville

Murwillumbah

Muswellbrook

Camden Haven

Bacchus Marsh

Mount Gambier

Lakes Entrance

Nambucca Heads

Forster-Tuncurry

Bridgewater

DUBBO

PORT MACQUARIE

MELTON

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Gundabooka national Park

Fact File Getting thereGundabooka National Park is 50km south of Bourke off the Kidman Way. Roads are passable in dry weather only.

When to goSummer temperatures can be uncomfortably hot and winter nights can be freezing: best time to go is in spring, or autumn, when flies are less friendly.

Where to campIn Gundabooka you can camp at Dry Tank, facilities include picnic tables and pit toilets, and sites are suitable for camper trailers and small caravans. May’s Bend, 11km north of Bourke on the Darling River, has some gorgeous free campsites; pets are allowed but there are no facilities and BYO drinking water. Follow the Kidman Way from North Bourke and keep an eye out for a small sign pointing right. The dirt track is fine for conventional cars but rain would make it impassable pretty quickly, so unless you’ve got a 4WD, keep an eye on the weather unless you’re happy to stay for a while.

More informationBourke Visitor Information Centre, Kidman Way, Bourke. Ph: (02) 6872 1321. www.backobourke.com.au or www.visitbourke.com.au


1: Bourke Lift Bridge.

2: Mulareenya Creek Art Site, Gundabooka National Park.

3: Henry Lawson reckoned that “If you know Bourke, you know Australia”.

4: PV Jandra.

5: Lose yourself in the legends of the outback at the Back o’Bourke Centre.

6: Lookout over the Gunderbooka Range.

float on our backs in the cool fresh

water as pelicans and cockatoos

swoop overhead in the fading light.

I ’m not so sure that these

days, when most of the country’s

population lives in the coastal cities,

Henry Lawson’s assertion that “to

know Bourke is to know Australia”

still applies, but I do know that

squelching the mud of the Darling

River between your toes and camping

on the banks of one of the country’s

greatest rivers in the middle of the

outback is to know what the good

things in life really are.



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50-53 _WALK OUTBACK.indd 50 29/05/12 3:37 PM


Words and photos: Barbara and Kevin Weimer

A cheeky willie wagtail hopped around us as

we set up camp, while a red-capped robin

watched from a branch, a more respectable

distance away.

We were at Arkaroola in South Australia’s

North Flinders Ranges and our plans included a

flight over Lake Eyre. Water from monsoonal rains

in Queensland and Northern Territory was again

flowing south into the lake. Several years earlier

we had camped beside a dry salt-encrusted Lake

Eyre at Halligan Bay. Now we wanted to see this

huge lake covered with water. We were also

on a return visit to Arkaroola to check

out the benefit of several years of

good local rainfall in this normally

dry and remote area of Australia.

Arkaroola, a privately-owned

and operated wilderness

sanctuary, has a stunning

landscape, rich in flora and

fauna. Its beauty is compelling.

It was established in 1968 after

Reg Sprigg and his wife Griselda

purchased Arkaroola Sheep Station

and commenced a programme of re-

introducing native flora and fauna. The

sanctuary has since won many sustainable tourism

and ecotourism awards.

1: Overlooking the rugged Arkaroola mountains from the Acacia Ridge track.

2: Arkaroola Station and the road to the village from the air.

3: Cliffs on Lake Eyre shoreline.

4: Walking through the curly mallee bushes.

5: Arkaroola Village from the Acacia Ridge track.

The current Arkaroola custodians are Marg

and Doug Sprigg. Accommodation includes motel

rooms, cabins, a caravan park and bush camping

along Wywhyana Creek. A number of excellent

walking tracks allow you to explore on foot, while

130 kilometres of 4-wheel-drive and 2-wheel-

drive tracks take you to tranquil waterholes

with fascinating names like Nooldoonooldoona,

Bararranna and Bolla Bollana or to towering

outcrops of quartz and feldspar, such as The

Needles, The Pinnacles and Sitting Bull. Three

telescopes are also available for viewing the

wonders of the night sky.

The weather had looked doubtful when we left

Copley with 130 kilometres of dirt road ahead of

us to Arkaroola. There had been showers the night

before. However, a road restrictions sign indicated Arkaroola – stunning landscape, rich in flora and fauna

5



all roads were open, so we drove on. There were

several muddy sections, but for the most part the

road was quite good and very picturesque.

Arriving at Arkaroola, we confirmed our Lake

Eyre flights at the very welcoming reception

desk and picked up walking track and self-

guided driving trail leaflets. Not to be missed is

the famous Ridgetop Tour. As we had taken the

Ridgetop Tour previously, and, as the access roads

to the waterholes had not been graded since the

recent rainfalls, we decided to leave them for

another trip and spend time on the walking tracks.

Next morning we set out on the Mawson-

Spriggina track. The track, starting at Arkaroola

Village, follows the Mawson Valley, named after

Sir Douglas Mawson, who studied the sequence

and relationship of rock layers in the Flinders

Ranges in the early 1900s. It returns along the

Spriggina Ridge, named after Reg Sprigg, who

had first visited this area as a geology student of

Mawson’s as early as 1937 and had discovered

600-million-year-old fossils in the rocks of the

Flinders – the earliest forms of worms and jelly

fish fossils to have been found. It was Mawson

who urged Sprigg to preserve this geological

wonderland for future generations.

This well-marked track meandered across a

creek and around hillsides with beautiful views.

Wildflowers such as elegant wattle, curly mallee,

senna and rock fuchsia were in bloom. Small

finches and wrens darted amongst the bushes.

We passed the pink nose of Sitting Bull and other

imposing rock formations including outcrops of

granitic rock known as The Pinnacles. We looked

for the endangered yellow-footed rock wallabies,

often seen at dusk or early morning, but as it was

mid-morning we were out of luck.

The next day we walked the popular Acacia

Ridge track. A young American named Mike drove

us to the trailhead near Arkaroola Station. No

longer a working sheep station, Arkaroola Station

is maintained in good condition and often houses

groups of geologists or astronomy students who

come here to study this amazing landscape and

its clear unpolluted skies.

Mike said we were in for a treat walking along

Acacia Ridge – and he wasn’t wrong! Whereas

yesterday we walked through a valley, today we

were high on a ridge top looking down both sides

into the valleys and across mountaintops. At the

ridge summit, the view across the many majestic

mountains was breathtaking. At Mt. Elva Dam, just

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A number of excellent walking tracks allow you

to explore on foot

before we reached the village, flocks of little birds

were diving into and out of the water. From there

it was a short walk back to the village through

“Ark Henge”, a collection of large boulders of

different rock types with labels identifying each.

Clear skies greeted us the following day for the

highlight of our stay – the flight over Lake Eyre.

Doug Sprigg was our pilot for the 3 ½ hour flight.

After briefing us on the geology of Arkaroola,

he drove us to the airport, where we boarded

the high-winged Cessna. All six passengers had

a window seat, ear phones (which doubled as

ear muffs) and a microphone so that we could

talk to the pilot.

The flight took us over Arkaroola and across

the Strzelecki and Birdsville tracks. We then

tracked down Cooper Creek into Lake Eyre.

We spent about an hour criss-crossing the lake,

flying low enough to fully appreciate this huge

expanse of water. The extent of the water in the

lake visible from the plane was awe inspiring.

Doug had a wealth of knowledge and provided

a running commentary throughout the flight. He

pointed out pelican rookeries, one on the banks

of the Cooper and one on an island in Lake Eyre.

We saw the wreck of a tourist plane that had



1: Arkaroola creek and waterhole from the air.

2: Arkaroola Village from the air.

3: Settled in at Arkaroola caravan park.

4: A sheer drop to the road – from Acacia Ridge.

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ArkAroolA

come down in the lake in the early 1990s

when the pilot got too close to the water,

while apparently trying to demonstrate

the fact that it was possible to fly below

sea level.

Reluctantly, we left Arkaroola the next

day rueing the fact that we couldn’t visit the

professionally-equipped observatories at

night, as the moon was either full or near-

full each evening of our stay. That will have

to wait for our next visit!

The South Australian Government

has recently announced that it intends to

submit Arkaroola for both National and

World Heritage listing.

Fact File Getting thereArkaroola is 600km north of Adelaide, 400km north of Port Augusta, 130km east of Copley and 300km north-west of Yunta. All roads have dirt sections and can be impassable after rain. Regular coach tours operate between Adelaide and Arkaroola.

When to goSummer is a photographer’s paradise, with fiery dawns and brilliant sunsets. In autumn and winter birdlife is more evident while spring is best for brilliant displays of wildflowers.

Where to campArkaroola has 50 powered sites, unpowered sites and 300 hectares of bush camping.

Excellent amenities include hot showers, toilets and a laundry. Campers have the use of all Arkaroola’s facilities, including the swimming pool and restaurant.

More informationSix guided 4x4 tours are available, including the world-famous Ridgetop Tour and up to three astronomy tours are conducted each evening, subject to suitable viewing conditions. Scenic flights, ranging from 35 minutes to 3½ hours are available.

Arkaroola Village: Ph: 1800 676 042 or www.arkaroola.com.au



horizonon the

more stars

Words and photos: Kara Murphy

The historic town of Charleville, in Queensland’s

mulga-rich south west Outback region, is

steadily growing its tourism offerings. But

regardless of which attractions capture your

attention during daylight hours, by night, your

focus will surely turn towards the sky.

I’ve been in Charleville just over an hour and

already I’ve manhandled a shooting star, stared

long and hard at the sun, and destroyed a perfectly

well-intentioned celestial object.

Yet, thankfully, I haven’t acquired burn marks,

eye damage, or any enemies at NASA.

No, I’ve just been exploring the Cosmos Centre,

which doubles as Charleville’s Visitor Information

Centre. Offering night observatory sessions, the

centre keeps visitors busy during daylight hours,

too, with a daily sun viewing session (through a

filtered telescope) from May–September and

displays that tell you, among other things, your

age on other planets (forget delusions of youth

on Venus... Mars is far kinder). Centre guides also

give brief talks, explaining Pluto’s recent demotion

from planet to dwarf planet and assuring dreamy

54-57 _Discover Stars.indd 54 29/05/12 3:40 PM


1: Cosmos Centre Manager Jane Morgan checks out sunspots using one of the centre observatory’s three telescopes.

2: If you gaze up at the night sky without the aid of a telescope, the Jewel Box cluster looks like one faint star near the easternmost star in the Southern Cross. However, this cluster, one of several objects you might see during one of the Cosmos Centre’s night sessions, actually consists of 200 stars located 7600 light years from Earth.

3: Saturn.

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the guided convoy tour on which we’re embarking

now is one recent initiative. Interpretive signs

educate visitors on remnants of the American

Air Force’s 3500-strong presence on the 25 sq

km airport reserve during WWII; however, Jane

and her fellow guides are constantly finding new

information (sometimes thanks to tour participants

who witnessed this chapter of history), and the $6

per person tour helps bring the sites and closely

guarded military secrets to life.

To maintain an aura of suspense, I’ll keep

Charleville’s military secrets under wrap. But I

will tell you that the current Royal Flying Doctor

Service hangar, built during the American

occupation, didn’t repeat its 1990 flood activities

(providing shelter for 2300 citizens and 800 relief

workers) during the area’s most recent watery

disaster.

No, during the March 2010 floods, the

community based its evacuation centre in another

location. And, in 2011, as floods ravaged much

of the rest of the state, Charleville remained

above water. The now infamous rains left a visible

sorts such as myself that stars do not, in fact,

‘shoot’ around our atmosphere: spotting one is

more a matter of patience than luck. These fleeting

trails of light are actually meteoroids – often

pebble-size particles of debris with shining trails

of gases and melted particles; the bit that impacts

Earth without being destroyed is a meteorite.

My extremely knowledgeable guide, Jane

Morgan (also the Centre Manager), handed me

a stony iron meteorite, remarkably heavy for its

size – I wouldn’t want to be plonked in the head

with it, that’s for sure. Squashing any potential

agoraphobia, Jane noted that only 21 people

worldwide have died as a result of being hit by

meteorites in the last 100 years. You’d have to

be really unlucky...

Having (regrettably) resisted the onsite Cosmic

Cafe’s cheesecake, made with ‘cheese from the

moon’, I finish my Cosmic Cappuccino, wiping the

remaining star-decorated froth from my upper lip

as I follow my guide out the door.

Jane and other area stakeholders have been

introducing new tourism products each year, and

Stars shine at Charleville day and night



souvenir, though, carpeting the brilliantly red-

floored area surrounding the town with eerily

dry, olive-coloured grasses.

The Charleville Mulgalands Environmental

Park, due to open in 2012, will give visitors an

opportunity to explore the landscape via a series

of walking tracks through mulga forests and

tussock grass plains. Another potential project

could involve brolga and emu spotting on a

property 35km from town.

Eager to tread along vegetated trails and view

a broader range of area wildlife, I’m sorry to miss

these adventures.

I’m grateful to learn, though, via the town’s Bilby

Experience, that the greater bilby, a long-eared

endangered marsupial, has enjoyed a boost in

population in Currawinya National Park (about

five hours south of Charleville), which is fitted with

a 25 sq km electrified, predator-proof bilby fence.

The fence was constructed in 2003 with monies

from Charleville’s Save the Bilby Fund, with the

help of conservation volunteers.

Leaving the Bilby Experience’s bilby enclosure,

Jane and I set off for the Cosmos Centre’s evening

session. However, the sky’s revelations begin

before we’ve pulled out of the parking area.

Suspended low in the sky, gracefully bloated

and utterly exposed, is an almost new moon, its

bountiful ghosted orb fringed with the slimmest

illuminated crescent I’ve ever seen.

‘That’s earthshine,’ says Jane. ‘It’s the amount

of light from our sun that the Earth reflects back

to the moon.’

The phenomenon is most visible immediately

before or after a new moon, but, in spite of all the

times I’ve raised my eyes towards the heavens,

I’ve never seen anything quite like this. It’s as

if our beloved satellite has altered its orbit,

travelling closer to Charleville than anywhere

else, just so it can spend a few stolen moments

basking in memories of the Outback’s red glow

– and perhaps dropping a few precious morsels

of moon cheese – above the silent watch of a few

sleepy streetlights.

By the time we’ve finished our two kilometre

drive to the centre, the moon has disappeared,

once again giving millions of stars centre stage.

1

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53 4

Discover

1: Camperscongregatearoundanopencampfireat the Evening Star Tourist Park every evening.

2: Charleville’sNationalParksandWildlifeofficekeeps approximately 15 yellow-footed rock wallabies in an onsite enclosure as part of a breeding program.

3: Happy camper Marion shows off one of the ‘marriage friendly’ drive through sites at the Evening Star Tourist Park.

4: The entrance to Charleville’s Bailey Bar Caravan Park, located in town. The park offers regular lamb on spit dinners and yabby races.

5: A weather balloon release (and subsequent examination of balloon data) is part of Charleville’s Weather Balloon Station tour.



BE AMAZED...Visit our observatory!

The Cosmos Centre & ObservatoryCharleville OUTBACK QUEENSLAND

Phone: (07) 4654 7771Email: [email protected]

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Lake EyreSouth

Lake Blanche

IslandLagoon

Sylvester Lake

LakeCallabonna

Bilpa MoreaClaypan

Lake Gregory


Lake Galilee

LakeHart

PernattyLagoon

LakeMachattie


LakeMaraboon

LakeBuchanan

Lake Etamunbanie

SaltLake

Moonda Lake

LakeYounghusband

Peery Lake

Lake Wyara

Lake Mulapula


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689

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Osprey Reef

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Bougainville Reef

Herald Cays

Lihou Reef and Cays

Holmes Reef

Flinders Reefs

War

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GROOTE EYLANDT

FRASER ISLAND

MORNINGTONISLAND

Hinchinbrook Island

Vanderlin Island

Moa (Clarke) I

Bribie Island

Marchinbar Island

Bentinck Island

Badu (Mulgrave) I


Saibai I


Raragala Island

Boigu I

Townshend Island

Magnetic Island

Great Palm Island

Great Keppel Island

Mabuiag I

Maria Island

Darnley(Erub) I

Murray Islands

Lady Elliott I

Green Island

West I

Whitsunday Island

Moreton Island

North Island

Guluwuru Island


Curtis I

Bremer Island

South Stradbroke I

Scawfell Island

Lizard Island

Dunk Island

Heron Island

Lloyd Bay

HERVEYBAY

Temple Bay

ArnhemBay

HALIFAX BAY

BROAD SOUND

Caledon Bay

Port Clinton

Weymouth Bay

LIMMEN BIGHT


ALBATROSS BAY

Port Bradshaw

ShelburneBay

Newcastle Bay

Rockingham Bay

SHOALWATER BAY

Bowling Green Bay

G U L F

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PRINCESSCHARLOTTE

BAY

Moreton Bay

Cape York

Hay Point

Cape Byron

Sandy Cape

Cape Arnhem

Waddy Point

Abbot Point

Cape Moreton

Cape Clinton

Duyfken Point

Cape Beatrice

Cape Keerweer

Cape Flattery

Lookout Point

Cape Melville

Cape Direction

Cape Grenville

Cape Wilberforce

Upsta

rt Bay

Saraji

Keppel Bay

Port Curtis

CURTIS CHANNEL

Horn (Narupai) I

Milyakburra

Cape Tribulation

MtRobe

Mt Norna

Mt Abbot

Mt Elliot

Mt Walker

Mt Hutton

Bald Hill

Mt Carter


Mt Stewart

Mt Halifax

Mt Drummond

Mt Tabletop

Mt Drummond

Mt Finnigan

St Mary Peak


Thornton Peak


Kerrs Table Mount

Bairds Table Mount

Bartle Frere


Freeling Heights

Haddon Corner

Cameron Corner

Poeppel Corner


NORTHUMBERLAND

ISLANDS

Nebo

Eulo

Coen

Peak Downs

Repulse Bay

Flind

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trance



E E F

Robinson River

Nelia

GumluClare

Laura

Tilpa

Garah

Hebel

Emmet

Comet

Wowan

Louth

Yaraka

Yetman

Marree

Anakie

Malbon

Quamby

Dalbeg

Morven

JundahBanana

Yaamba

Kynuna

Moomba

Bollon

Cracow

Moonie

Paluma

Ogmore

Byrock

Rowena

Carinda

Mingela

Dulacca

Adavale

Kinrola

Koumala

Duchess

Gilliat

Prairie

Bellata

Bonshaw

Thallon

Wyandra

Cheepie

Callide

Jericho

Morella

Carmila

Almaden

Pilliga

Beltana

Betoota

Kajabbi

Blinman

Kidston

Dajarra


Yandaran

Newlands

Quambone

Enngonia

Isisford

Yalleroi

Corfield

Stamford

Forsayth

Daintree

Bedourie

McKinlay

Coolabah

Eromanga

Toompine

CoolataiCumborah

Windorah

Gwabegar

Nymboida

Pentland

Arrilalah

Goonyella

Maxwelton

Blackbull

Wanaaring

Rolleston

Port Alma

Middleton

Woodstock

Chillagoe

Urandangi

Greenvale

Condamine

Baryulgil

Meandarra

Lyndhurst

Gunpowder

Innamincka

Coppabella

Ravenswood

Hungerford

Nindigully

Kumbarilla

Glenmorgan

Mungallala

Stonehenge

Ilfracombe

Einasleigh

Birdsville

Burramurra

Yantabulla

Muttaburra

Abergowrie

Elura Mine

Parachilna

Tibooburra

Marlborough

Bogantungan

Mount Perry


Mount Molloy

Weilmoringle

BalfesCreek

Fords Bridge

Torrens Creek

Gilbert River

Phosphate Hill

Mount Surprise

Lakeland

Burren Junction

SouthBlackwater

Olympic Dam


Andoom

Bambaroo

Homestead

Mount Coolon

GOWAN RA

PEAK RA

AUBU

RN R

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MC

GR

EG

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Palm Islands

Whitsunday Group

WELLESLEY ISLANDS

CUMBERLAND ISLANDS


Lindeman Group

TORRES STRAIT

CAPE YORKPENINSULA

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ENDEAVOUR STR

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T A B L E L A N D

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Q U E E N S L A N D

Buckingham Bay

Port L

angdon

Cumberland Channel

CAPRICORN CHANNEL

B A R K L Y

Isle Woodah

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Almora

Dunbar

Durrie

Soudan

Rokeby

Leumeah

Cowarie

Westlea

Retreat

Monkira

Jervois

Corinda

Barenya

UndillaCanobie

Vanrook

Clayton

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Bulimba

Benmara

Merluna

Mahanewo

Tartulla

Koolatah

Yarrawin

Ranken

Caiwarro

Naryilco

Orientos

Trinidad

Glengyle

Surbiton

Cassilis

AnnitowaGeorgina

Downs

Burleigh

Morstone

Lorraine

Wondoola

Bowthorn Barwidgi

Inkerman

Etadunna

Humeburn

Arrabury

Eastmere

Wambiana

Lolworth

Toolebuc

Highbury

Drumduff

Yarraden

Bramwell

Innisvale

Arkaroola

Fort GreyBundaleer

Tobermory

Thylungra

Palparara Nandowrie

Connemara

Vergemont Peak Vale

Aberfoyle

Kamileroi

EsmeraldaRobinhood

Mittiebah

Lawn Hill

Bing Bong

Woolerina

Curnamona

Yancannia

Ambathala

Collabara

Lake Nash

Lyndhurst

Gallipoli

Seven Emu

Lakefield

Avon Downs

Tobermorey

Frankfield

Yelvertoft

Mootwingee

Nockatunga

Castlevale

Warbreccan

Coorabulka

Springvale

Lucy Creek

Ooratippra

Thorntonia

Claraville


Murnpeowie

Currawilla


Carandotta

Dalgonally

Wando Vale

Meadowbank

Armraynald

Alexandria

Strathburn

Moolawatana

Murra Murra

Durrandella

Breadalbane

Argadargada

Numil Downs

Riversleigh

Donors Hill

Delta Downs


Frome Downs

Moray Downs

Natal Downs

Malbon Vale

Saxby Downs

Bluff Downs

Maggieville

Wollogorang

MallapunyahSprings

Strathhaven

Violet Vale

Border Downs

Shelburne Bay

Mount Douglas

Thurloo Downs

Millers Creek

DynevorDowns

Clifton Hills


Tarlton Downs

GregoryDowns

Saltbush Park

Austral Downs

Miranda Downs

Calvert Hills

Marina Plains

Batavia Downs

Lorella Spring

Mount Margaret

Kangaroo Hills

Abingdon Downs

Rutland Plains

Cordillo Downs

Mount Sturgeon

Chudleigh Park


DavenportDowns

Mount Lyndhurst

Cresswell Downs

MountRavenswood

Diamantina Lakes

Roxborough Downs

Buckingham Downs

Mount Elsie

Augustus Downs

Mount Mulyah

Bulloo Downs

Galway Downs

Marion Downs

Glenormiston

Strathfillan

Nappa Merrie

Durham Downs

Mount Howitt

Barkly Downs

Westmoreland

Wrotham Park

Tara

Bell

Weipa

Miles

Tieri

Guyra

Urunga

Sarina

Bourke

Kyogle

Wondai

Howard

Aramac

Winton

Boulia

Cooroy

Wandoan

Capella

Gayndah

Wee Waa

Quilpie

Mossman

Clifton

Bonalbo

Ashford

Woomera

Baradine

Jandowae

Mitchell

Eidsvold

Theodore

Richmond

Silkwood

Dimbulah

Emu Park

Warialda

Wallumbilla

Bellingen

St George

Longreach

Gracemere

Cloncurry

Home Hill

Umbakumba

Numbulwar

Hope ValeKowanyama

Andamooka

Woolgoolga

Augathella

Barcaldine

Georgetown

Pormpuraaw

Dirranbandi

Tin Can Bay

Julia Creek

Roxby Downs

Collarenebri

White Cliffs

Esk

Giru

Oakey

Tambo

Bluff

Tiaro

Surat

Monto

Moura

Alpha

Tully

Texas

Iluka

Boonah

Uralla

Kilcoy

Yuleba

Injune

Taroom

Dysart

Marian

Ingham

Bamaga

Murgon

Tingha

Goondiwindi

Bingara

Babinda

Attunga

Manilla

Walgett

Glenden

Halifax

Croydon

Karumba

Aurukun

Gin Gin

Proston

Nanango

Maclean

Dorrigo

Barraba

Cardwell

Delungra

Thangool

Boggabri

NarrabriBundarra


BlackallCalliope

Duaringa

Clermont

Seaforth

Cooktown

Yirrkala

Angurugu

Rubyvale

Baralaba

Childers

Yarraman

Jimboomba

Biggenden

Wilcannia

Coonamble

Bendemeer

Glenreagh

InglewoodKillarney

Hughenden

Normanton

Camooweal

Doomadgee

Goondiwindi

Nhulunbuy

Alyangula

HerbertonRavenshoe

Burketown

Springsure


Stanthorpe

Cunnamulla

Beaudesert

Millmerran

Pittsworth

Blackwater

Walkerston

Proserpine

Gordonvale

Borroloola

Woorabinda

Mundubbera

CrowsNest

Wallangarra

Leigh Creek

Mullumbimby

Charleville

Miriam Vale

Palm Island

Middlemount


Mount Morgan

Finch Hatton

Ocean Shores

Thargomindah

Cecil Plains

Mount Larcom

Airlie Beach

Mount Garnet

Collinsville

Tannum Sands

Mission Beach

Lockhart River

Thursday Island

Hamilton Island

Lightning Ridge

Nambour

Ballina

Bargara

Ayr

Roma

Bowen


Chinchilla

Deepwater

Bushland Beach

Moree

Dalby

Yamba

Casino

Gatton

Gympie

Grafton

Warwick

Biloela

Emerald Yeppoon

Mareeba

SawtellGunnedah

Armidale

Inverell

Bongaree

Kingaroy

Deeragun

Atherton

Moranbah

Byron Bay

Innisfail

Mount Isa

Caboolture

Glen Innes

Maryborough

Murwillumbah


ChartersTowers

BUNDABERG

MACKAY

CAIRNS

LISMORE

GLADSTONE

CALOUNDRA

HERVEY BAY

ROCKHAMPTON

COFFS HARBOUR

NOOSA HEADS

TOOWOOMBA

MAROOCHYDORE

Deepwater

Deepwater

TOWNSVILLE

TWEED HEADS

IPSWICH

GOLD COAST

BRISBANE

Alpurrurulam

Wujal Wujal

Balgal Beach

Midge Point

Byfield

Agnes Water

Gununa

Misima I



DS

200

2000

4000

2000

4000

4000

200

2000

4000

200

200

2000

4000

2002000

4000

2000

200

4000

2000

200

200

2000

4000

A R A F U R A S E A

C O R A L S E AS

OU

TH

P

AC

IF

IC

O

CE

AN

SO

UT

H

PA

CI

FI

C

OC

EA

N

S O L O M O N S E A

Sudest I

Muyua (Woodlark) I


Goodenough I

Fergusson I

Normanby I


Fact File Getting thereCharleville is approximately 742km north west of Brisbane. The Warrego Highway offers the most direct driving route. All highways and major roads in the Outback are sealed.

When to goCharleville swells with campers and caravans from around Easter until just before the Christmas holidays. Spring, winter and autumn offer the most comfortable conditions, though the area’s low humidity means the lofty summer temps are kinder than you might expect.

CampingCaravan parks with campsites abound in and around Charleville. The Evening Star (www.eveningstar.com.au), located 8km from town on a 33,000 acre working cattle station, boasts station tours, a licensed bar, and a nightly campfire. The newest area parks include the Charleville Bush (www.travelwest.com.au), a couple of kilometres west of town, which doesn’t allow smoking, pets or children, and the soon-to-be-opened Red Lizard, 6km south. In-town parks such as the Bailey Bar (www.charlevillebaileybar.com.au) and the Cobb & Co may lack the spaciousness of parks further afield, but they boast a shorter drive to the Cosmos Centre’s evening shows (and the former organises yabby races on Wednesday evenings).

Further information:Queensland’s Outback: www.adventureoutback.com.au Murweh Shire Council: www.murweh.qld.gov.au © Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012

Charleville



OutbackTop

campsWords and photos: Lee Atkinson

Home Valley StationYou can be forgiven for feeling as if the scenery looks

familiar when you drive up to the entrance of Home

Valley Station in the Kimberley; especially if you’ve

seen the Baz Luhrmann movie, Australia, starring

Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman. It’s these ranges

that form the backdrop to the dramatic cattle muster

scenes movie. Besides horse riding trails and cattle

musters there are guided barramundi fishing tours of

the billabongs and rivers, canoeing and birdwatching

tours, boat cruises, a range of 4WD tours and, of course,

an Australia movie tour, where you can visit all the

sites on the station that inspired Luhrmann, including

Jackman’s Jump-up and Kidman’s Krossing. You can

set up your own camp at one of the powered sites near

the main resort complex, or if you prefer a bit more of a

wilderness experience, and don’t want to mix it with the

other guests at the homestead’s Dusty Bar and Grill at

night, you can roll out your swag beside the Pentecost

River, 4km from the homestead, where crocodiles sun

themselves on the banks and sharks cruise the water.

Home Valley Station is on the Gibb River Road approximately 90 minutes’ drive from Kununurra (120km). Tip: Home Valley’s cattle brand has become the station’s nickname – roadside signs will point you to HV8, not Home Valley. www.homevalley.com.au

UluruAs far as iconic Outback locations go, it doesn’t get any

bigger or better than Uluru. It doesn’t matter how many

photos you’ve seen of Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the red

centre, your first glimpse of Uluru will remain in your

memory forever. Join the throng of awestruck travellers

who gather like religious pilgrims to watch the rock turn

red, then purple, then blue and finally black in the setting

sun on any given evening, and it’s highly unlikely you’ll

hear a disappointed complaint among them. Australia’s

most identifiable icon is a massive red rounded monolith

rising 348m above the surrounding plains that reaches

6km below the earth’s surface. The circumference

measures more than 9km. Its sister rock formation, Kata

Tjuta, (The Olgas) which means ‘many heads’, is made

up of 36 huge, weathered domes spread over 35 square

kilometres and is just as impressive. You cannot camp

in the national park, but the Ayers Rock Campground

has powered caravan sites, shaded grassy tent sites and

great amenities. At $36 for a non-powered site ($41 for

power) it’s not the cheapest campground, but watching

the sun rise or set over the rock is priceless. You’ll need

to book well in advance.

Ph: 1300 134 044

www.ayersrockresort.com.au/arrcamp/

Ayers Rock Resort is 445km by sealed road from Alice Springs. The resort is 18km from Uluru.

Thinking about an Outback experience? Here are 10 destinations that tick all the boxes every time.

Outback icons you won’t want to miss

58-61 _Top10.indd 58 29/05/12 3:42 PM


Cameron CornerIf you’ve ever found yourself wishing you could be in three places at once then you’re in luck. At Cameron Corner in far western NSW you can put one foot in NSW, the other in Queensland and wave your arms around in South Australia, all at the same time. Visit in summer and you can travel back and forth through time. Thanks to daylight saving, the three states are all on different time zones.

Time your trip for New Year’s Eve and you can get three new year countdowns for the price of one: party in Queensland, step across to SA half an hour later for a second cheer and 30 minutes later you can do it all again in NSW.

The point where the three states meet is marked with a post, and has become a favourite photo stop for most Outback travellers. While there’s not much at Cameron Corner, just the Corner Store on the Queensland side, like all good corner shops it sells everything. It does have powered and unpowered caravan sites and a golf course. Play all nine holes in three states through and you’ll earn a certificate. The real reason to head out this way is the red desert scenery of the surrounding Strzelecki Desert. If you are lucky enough to be here after the rain has been and gone, the dunes are carpeted in wildflowers.

Cameron Corner is 140km north west of Tibooburra. You’ll need a 4WD. www.outbacknsw.com.au/cameron_corner_store.htm

Undara Volcanic National ParkThe Undara Lava Tubes in the heart of the Savannah Gulf Country

are part of the longest lava flow from a single volcanic crater on Earth.

These lava tubes, which extend more than 160km, were formed around

190,000 years ago, when a large volcano erupted violently, spewing

molten lava over the surrounding landscape. The lava, which has been

estimated at 233 cubic kilometres or enough to fill Sydney Harbour in

just six days, flowed rapidly down a dry riverbed. The top outer layer

cooled and formed a crust while the molten lava below drained outwards

leaving behind a series of hollow tubes. There are 68 separate sections

of lava tube that have been identified from more than 300 lava tube roof

collapses, and more than 164 volcanoes in the area. Undara Volcanic

National Park is a ‘closed’ national park, which means you can only explore

the lava tubes on a guided tour (high carbon dioxide levels make the lava

tube area dangerous for visitors without an experienced guide) and no

camping is allowed. Undara Experience has several guided tours available.

Undara Experience, set on what was originally Rosella Plains Station, a

cattle station owned and run by the Collins family (the first white settlers

in the district) since 1862, has a large campground with powered drive-

through caravan sites and good amenities, including a pool and licensed

restaurant. Bookings essential: call 1800 990 992. www.undara.com.au

Undara is 275km west of Cairns on sealed roads.

Cameron Corner

Home Valley Station

Undara Volcanic National Park

Top 10

58-61 _Top10.indd 59 29/05/12 3:42 PM


Kings CanyonThe western end of the George Gill

Ranges rises sharply from the surrounding

flat desert plains, producing a rugged

landscape of ranges, rockholes and

gorges, the best known of all being Kings

Canyon in Watarrka National Park. Rising

up 100m to a plateau of rocky domes,

Kings Canyon is home to one of the most

dramatic short walks in the Outback – the

Rim Walk – where you can look down

over the rim into the chasm formed by the

sheer-sided red sandstone walls of the

canyon. The best time to tackle the 6km

walk is either early in the morning, before

the heat and flies begin to fray tempers,

or late in the afternoon, when the setting

sun lights up the sheer sandstone walls

of the canyon to their best advantage.

The first half-hour or so is a lung-busting,

muscle-destroying climb up the side of

the canyon, but if you can make it that

far, the remainder of the two to three-

hour walk is an easy stroll around the rim

of the canyon. You cannot camp in the

national park, but Kings Canyon Resort,

which is just 7km from the park entrance,

has powered caravan and camping sites.

Bookings are essential, call 1300 134

044; www.kingscanyonresort.com.au.

You can also stay at Kings Creek Station

(the largest exporter of wild camels in

Australia), 36km from the national park

entrance. Powered and unpowered sites

are available as well as safari-style cabins.

Ph: (08) 8956 7474

www.kingscreekstation.com.au

Kings Canyon is 330km west of Alice Springs via the unsealed Mereenie Loop Road, which is not suitable for caravans. Sealed road access is via Yulara (Ayers Rock Resort), 305km to the south west.

Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve The Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu) are a collection of

gigantic (some are four metres high and 13-33 metres

wide) rounded precariously balanced granite boulders

that make for some great photo opportunities. The area

is an important meeting place and rich in ‘dreaming’ sites

for local Aboriginal people; in the Aboriginal mythology

the marbles are the eggs of the rainbow serpent and

are regarded as having extraordinary powers, and many

dreamtime stories and traditions of the Warumungu,

Kaytetye and Alyawarre Aboriginal people are linked

with this area. Ownership was officially handed back

to the traditional owners in late 2008. There are some

great self-guided walks around the reserve, beyond

the famous two boulders that appear in all the photos,

and the area is well worth exploring. There is a basic

bush camping area with fire places and pit toilets at the

southern end of the Reserve. No water or firewood

is provided, and you should come well equipped. The

campground has good views of the eastern side of the

marbles, so try and wake up early to see the marbles

glow at sunrise.

The Devils Marbles are 110km south of Tennant Creek on the Stuart Highway; approximately 393km north of Alice Springs.

Finke Gorge National Park This beautiful but remote national park

west of Alice Springs is home to Palm

Valley, a beautiful oasis-like pocket of

around 3000 red cabbage palm trees.

It’s 4WD access only and the last 16km

follows the sandy bed of the usually

dry Finke River, which means it may be

inaccessible after heavy rains. It can

be hard going and is for experienced

four-wheel-drivers only with high

clearance vehicles. The campground

has hot showers, gas barbecues and

there are a range of good walking trails

with information about the mythology

of Western Arrernte Aboriginal culture.

A favourite is the 20-minute climb to

Kalaranga Lookout which has spectacular

views of the rock amphitheatre encircled

by rugged cliffs. In Palm Valley itself, the

two-hour Mpulungkinya Walk winds

through the palms and across the plateau.

Finke Gorge National Park is 138km west of Alice Springs via Hermannsburg.

Kings Canyon

Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve

Finke Gorge National Park

58-61 _Top10.indd 60 29/05/12 3:42 PM


Coongie Lakes National Park Coongie Lakes National Park is listed as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, comprising of channels, waterholes, lakes, shallow floodplains and swamps which attract an enormous amount of waterbirds. Unlike most Outback lakes, Coongie Lakes contain water most of the time, although the surrounding ephemeral wetlands fill only after rain, which can mean that access to the park is often cut. The area is an important spiritual site for the Aboriginal people who inhabited the area. There are a number of superb lakeside camping areas, although facilities are limited to pit toilets, but be warned, it’s such a beautiful place that you’ll probably end up staying twice as long as you planned, especially if you like birdwatching, swimming or canoeing (BYO canoe or kayak). No generators or campfires are permitted, so carry a fuel stove. It’s four-wheel-drive access only and you will need to have a valid Desert Parks Pass to visit this park. These cost $125 per vehicle and include a useful information pack and detailed maps and are valid for 12 months. Call 1800 816 078 or visit www.parks.sa.gov.au

Coongie Lakes National Park is located 100km north-west of Innamincka. Access is along the Strzelecki Track, via Leigh Creek.

Big Desert Wilderness More famous for its dramatic coastline, snow-capped mountains and

fertile river valleys, Victoria’s not often associated with Outback and

desert wilderness, but the Big Desert Wilderness Park (Victoria’s first

declared wilderness area) is a large area of inhospitable terrain that has

been left largely untouched by Europeans. More than 50 species of

lizards and snakes and 93 species of birds have been recorded in the park

including the extremely rare western whipbird. There are campsites at

Big Billy Bore, the Springs, Moonlight Tank and Broken Bucket Reserve

along the Nhill-Murrayville Road. You must carry your own drinking

water and the park is best avoided during the middle of summer when

high temperatures make bushwalking unsafe. There are no tracks into the

park and you must walk in from the Nhill-Murrayville Road (a rough, dry

weather road only), separated from the park by a 5km strip of public land.

Big Desert Wilderness is around 200km south of Mildura.

Goongarrie National Park A former pastoral station set amongst arid plains and mulga north of

Kalgoorlie, Goongarrie offers a fascinating glimpse into remote station

life. You can camp at the old homestead or shearers’ quarters – neither

has power but both have wood chip heaters for hot showers and well

equipped kitchens; the homestead is particularly ideal for groups. Explore

the park by car, or take a day trip to nearby Menzies and Lake Ballard, a

large white salt lake in an otherwise featureless semi-desert 55km west

of the tiny township that is home to one of the country’s most intriguing

and otherworldly art installations. Called “Inside Australia”, the work

is by internationally renowned artist, Antony Gormley. Gormley made

laser body scans of 51 of the Menzies locals and then made casts that

are life-size in height but are shrunk by two-thirds in the width. The

resulting stick-like statues, cast in a mixture of iron, molybdenum, iridium,

vanadium and titanium, now rusty and pocked from the surrounding

harsh salt environment, are scattered over 10 square kilometres of the

salt lake, each one standing alone around about 750 metres apart from its

neighbour, so wherever you turn, there’s another on the horizon. It’s the

last place you expect to find world famous art, but the WA goldfields have

always been about finding unexpected troves of treasure.

Goongarrie National Park is 90km north of Kalgoorlie.

Lee Atkinson is the author of the Australian Road Trips Smartphone and iPad app (available on iTunes and

Android Market). Download it from www.ozyroadtripper.com.au

Lake Ballard Statues

Big Desert Wilderness

Coongie Lakes National Park

Top 10

58-61 _Top10.indd 61 29/05/12 3:43 PM


Outbackmeets the sea

Words and photos: Martin Auldist

Tourism pamphlets universally proclaim that Exmouth,

Western Australia, is where “the Outback meets

the sea”.

Despite this somewhat corny catchcry, the eclectic mix

of desert landscapes and ocean vistas is admittedly alluring.

This is a place where spinifex, red sand and rugged rocky

outcrops tumble down to meet turquoise bays and glaringly

white beaches, where Sturt’s Desert Pea grows in the table

drains near the boat ramp, and where kangaroos graze

amongst giant anthills only metres from the crashing surf.

All in all, Exmouth is a terrific holiday spot for any number

of reasons, including the camping, the wildlife, the weather

and the breathtaking scenery. Personally, however, I

have been drawn across the Nullarbor on more than one

occasion for a different reason. Fishing!

Initially established to support a nearby US Naval Base,

Exmouth is a small, friendly, holiday town on the north-

central coast of Western Australia. It has a permanent

population of less than 3,000, but the area has nearly

200,000 visitors a year, many of them anglers – and for

good reason. Quite simply, the area offers some of the best,

most accessible fishing in the country.

The focus of the marine waters to the west of the small

peninsula on which Exmouth sits is the Ningaloo Marine

Park, which encompasses the pristine Ningaloo coral reef.

This reef, stretching some 300km down the coast and at

times within swimming distance of the sand, is home to

a remarkable diversity of marine life. Humpback whales,

dolphins, sea turtles, manta rays and whale sharks all

occur in great numbers. The fishing, too, is as diverse as it

is spectacular. Whether you’re into ocean trolling for big

game, inshore light tackle game fishing, saltwater fly fishing,

bottom-bouncing for reef fish, or shore-based rock and

beach fishing, you will find something you like at Exmouth.

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62-65 _Fishing.indd 62 29/05/12 3:57 PM


1: Wahoo provided some spectacular action on 10kg outfits outside Ningaloo reef. This one is displayed by Melbourne-based angler Steve Pettenon.

2: There are several good boat ramps in the Exmouth area. This one is at Tantabiddy.

3: The waters off Exmouth are Shark City. This is a small bronze whaler that was released unharmed. Bigger specimens exist here too, so it’s wise to get your fish on board quickly, before the Razor Gang arrives.

4: There is beach access at many points along the west coast. Double check local regulations to make sure fishing is permitted.

had best success with red and

white Magnum Rapalas, as

well as pink and chrome Halco

Laser Pro 190s, in both deep

and shallow running varieties.

We fished three lures from the

transome at varying distances

behind the boat. Trolling at around

6 knots in a zig-zag pattern across

the drop-off from a depth of 25m out

to 40m and back again usually delivered

results.

Mostly you will get away with 10 or 15kg trolling outfits.

We used Penn and Abu overhead reels combined with

suitably partnered off-the-shelf rods. We tied a short

double in the monofilament mainline, and connected that

to either a wind-on trace or a length of Jinkai trace of 60 to

80lb breaking strain. Finally, a wire trace of 80lb breaking

strain linked the trace to the lure. We learned the hard

way to pay attention to detail: these are powerful fish

that don’t give you a second chance – so make sure you

rig up properly.

For those with the billfish bug, sailfish and marlin are

common captures when the water temperature rises. This

would probably be one of the easiest places for everyday

anglers to catch one because you won’t necessarily have

to travel too far offshore.

When playing fish it pays to get them into the boat

quickly. This place can be Shark City! We lost several

great fish to the Razor Gang and it’s an awful feeling to

wind in just a head. You’re better off taking your chances,

cranking down the drag and getting your fish in as quickly

as you dare. If it gets off, so be it, at least it will survive to

fight again another day.

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4

3

6

Go Fish

Getting thereLet’s not beat around the bush, Exmouth is a long way

from just about everywhere. In fact if you were to mark

an “x” on a map of Australia that was as far away from the

major centres of Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane as you

could get, you would end up marking a spot pretty close

to Exmouth. This angler’s El Dorado is around 1300km

north of Perth, but there is a good, flat and fairly straight

bitumen highway all the way from the WA capital though,

so the distance is not as bad as it sounds. There are daily

flights from the eastern states to Perth, where you could

get a connecting flight to Exmouth or hire a car. I got the

feeling, though, that many visitors to Exmouth are on their

way around Australia.

Stepping outsideSurveys show that 90 per cent of fish caught in the region

are landed from a boat. In particular, there is blue ribbon

ocean fishing available on the outer side of the reef – which

being a fringing reef is usually not very far from shore.

Access to the Indian Ocean is easiest and safest via the

North Passage. This is a break in the reef just north of

Tantabiddy boat ramp, and the safe route is marked by a

combination of buoys and markers on shore. You should

get local information on current conditions, however this

passage is navigable in most tides. En route to the ocean

outside, you’ll get spectacular views of the waves breaking

over the outer reef. It’s an awesome display of power and

a reminder not to get too close.

Outside the reef, the open ocean provides virtually

endless trolling opportunities. Towing bibbed lures is likely

to turn up barracuda, Spanish and shark mackerel, yellowfin

tuna and, if you’re lucky, some big wahoo. Cobia and dolphin

fish are also possibilities. My fishing companions and I have

Spinifex and red sand meet turquoise bays and white beaches in

the Nullarbor

62-65 _Fishing.indd 63 29/05/12 3:58 PM


Bottom fishing is also popular outside the reef.

Spangled emperor (known locally as ‘nor-west

snapper’) and the highly prized red emperor are

the primary targets. There are also many other

reef species that can be caught, including pink

snapper, coral trout, Robinson’s sea bream and

the peculiar long-spined snapper.

The best technique for the reef species is to

drift while bouncing baits of cut pilchard or fresh

fillet. On most days a sea anchor will be required

to slow the drift. We fished between 40 and 80m

of water, using paternoster rigs tied in heavy Jinkai

trace. Heavy sinkers ensured the baits stayed on

the bottom, while main lines of gelspun or braid

increased the sensitivity of bite detection.

Inside the reefThe sheltered waters inside the reef are ideal for

fishing from small to medium-sized boats or even

kayaks. We had some great sessions anchored

only a few metres from the coral, fishing light gear

for gold-spotted trevally. A small berley trail of

pilchard pieces really fired up these hard-fighting

fish and produced some of the hottest action

of the trip. Fish to 3kg were caught by floating

unweighted pilchard baits down the berley trail,

but this soon became too easy. We also caught

them on small metal slices, soft plastics (100mm

Squidgie fish proved very effective), and on fly

gear by working a weighted Clouser minnow

erratically up the berley trail. Don’t overdo the

berley though, or sharks will again crash the party.

The waters inside the reef also hold large

numbers of queenfish that can be taken using

lures, flies or on small live baits (such as hardy

heads) suspended below a float. Trolling inside

the reef is a reliable way to hook a wide variety

of other pelagic hooligans, while baits are the way

to go to target table fish like spangled emperor

and bluebone.

The GulfEast of the peninsula is Exmouth Gulf,

which also provides some awesome angling

opportunities. Most pelagic species – including

some monstrous golden and giant trevally – are

regular visitors to the gulf. Boaties target them

around shoals and sections of reef, but local

knowledge is required to find these spots. The

gulf waters offer some advantages, including

better ramps and considerably safer boating.

No reef crossings are necessary, and the gulf

is often sheltered from the westerly winds that

play havoc with boating on the Ningaloo side of

the peninsula.

Land-basedAnglers who favour land-based fishing won’t be

disappointed: several locations offer peerless

beach and rock fishing. In particular, the area near

Mildura Wreck is renowned for some fantastic

captures of giant trevally. Make sure you have

serious gear though: the pros use heavy Saltiga

or Shimano Stella threadline reels loaded up with

24 to 37kg braid. Powerful 9 to 11 foot heavy-

duty rods are used to cast surface poppers the

size of coke cans and steer these crazy fish away

from the reef.

41 2

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Go Fish

Those fishing with lighter gear can target

smaller varieties of trevally, queenfish and

mangrove jack with both hard and soft lures,

while bread and butter species like spangled

emperor, bluebone, whiting, bream and garfish

are taken with baits. Hotspots include Learmonth

Jetty to the south of Exmouth, the outer wall of

the Exmouth Marina, and many of the west side

accesses in the Cape Range National Park. I also

saw a visiting Englishman catch a nice queeny

from the Tantabiddy boat ramp using a small

silver Rapala lure.

Boat hire A convenient option for anglers visiting Exmouth

is to hire a boat. Even Perth-based anglers often

do this to save towing their own boats for 15

gruelling hours. Boats are available from a

number of outlets, and you can get a range of

sizes to tackle whatever type of fishing you like.

We hired a 6.5 metre Barrington complete with a

225 hp 4-stroke Yamaha – which cost $1400 for

6 days – but smaller versions are also available.

There are good concrete boat ramps at

Tantabiddy on the west coast of the peninsula

and Bundegi on the gulf side north of Exmouth.

Boats can also be launched at Exmouth Marina.

A word of warning though – know your limits in

terms of your own experience with boats. Fishing

outside the reef requires good boatmanship and

experience with ocean-going vessels. If you don’t

have boating experience there are many charter

boats that cater for all types of fishing.

62-65 _Fishing.indd 64 29/05/12 3:58 PM


1: TheExmouthregionoffersgreatsaltwaterflyfishingfrombothboatandshore.Thisgold-spottedtrevallytookaweightedClouserminnow.

2:Exmouthisprobablyoneoftheeasiestplacestocatchbillfish,includingmarlin.

3:EveningbeachfishingaroundExmouthcanbebothpeacefulandproductive.

4:ThelighthouseatVlaminghHeadprovidesaninterestingdistraction,nottomentionagreatview.

When to goThere is great fishing all year round at Exmouth,

though some times are better than others.

It’s best to find a compromise between angler

comfort and fish activity. Summer is a productive

time for fishing but the temperatures soar to

an unbearable 40ºC almost every day

and the heat can be associated with

dangerous winds. In winter, the

conditions are ideal for boating,

but the water temperature is

lower than optimal for game

fish. Thus the best time to

schedule a trip is either in

spring or autumn (as food

for thought, the annual

Gamex game f ishing

tournament at Exmouth

has recently been changed

from August to March).

Fishing RegulationsThe regulations governing angling in the Ningaloo Marine

Park and surrounding areas are complex. Species bag limits

and possession limits apply, plus there are a number of

sanctuary zones in which angling is prohibited. The WA

government has recently increased the extent of these

sanctuaries such that angling is now prohibited in more

than 25 per cent of the park, much to the understandable

frustration of Western Australian anglers. A detailed

brochure detailing the applicable regulations is available

from many local outlets.

CampingThe Exmouth area provides some great campsites.

For those in need of frequent supplies or simply

craving some convenience, there are commercial

caravan parks located in Exmouth, beneath

Vlamingh Head and near Tantabiddy. Perhaps the

best spot to while away a few idyllic days though,

is in the Cape Range National Park on the western

shore of the peninsula. At several places there are

well-managed camping sites within metres of the

water, although facilities are limited.

So, get to it! Whether you’re passing through

on the big lap around Australia, or hankering for

an extended trip to a remote location, if you’re an

angler I guarantee you won’t be disappointed with

Exmouth. Sure, getting there can be an adventure

in itself, but the travel will be well worthwhile.

Exmouth offers a wide variety of awesome angling

opportunities, with great weather and spectacular

scenery thrown into the deal.

Carry a registered 406 MHz Distress Beacon if you are venturing into remote areas.

Be safe, Be sure.

Remember the following points:

• Leave details of your trek with family and friends.

• A registered 406 MHz GPS equipped distress beacon enables a faster response in an emergency.

• Distress beacons should only be used in life-threatening situations.

• In the event of an emergency, you should first signal other people in your area using radios or other methods of attracting attention.

• Mobile phones can be used but don’t rely on them, they may be out of range, have limited battery power, or become water-damaged.

www.amsa.gov.au/beaconsphone 1800 406 406

62-65 _Fishing.indd 65 29/05/12 3:59 PM


Small

on si

ze

Words and photos: Kerry Heaney

Ever looked longingly at a camper trailer but thought it would be all too much for your soft roader to cope with?

Well your days of daydreaming are over with the arrival of

Conqueror Australia’s new UEV-310, designed to match

many soft roaders like Toyota’s RAV4, Suzuki’s Vitara

or Nissan’s X-TRAil and taking you places you’d never

thought you’d see.

it may be small compared to the five bigger UEVs in

Conqueror Australia’s range but the UEV-310 still has

the famous Conqueror military-quality construction, two

decades of R&D and tow anywhere ability.

FeaturesAt 3.7m long and 1.83m wide, and weighing 490kg (dry

weight), the UEV-310 is the smallest camper trailer in the

six-strong Conqueror Australia UEV range, but you know

what they say, all good things come in small packages.

let’s get technical and talk about the hot-dip galvanised

chassis beams, the electro galvanised, stainless steel and

powder coated parts and the body strength that comes

from the skeletal construction and cladding-minimised

weight. There’s also a 90l, low centre of gravity water tank

and designated mountings for two jerry can holders and a

massive 330 litre nose box.

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on options

66-68 _Camper Trailer Review.indd 66 29/05/12 4:02 PM


1: Compact and go anywhere – that’s the UEV-310.

2/3: Setting up takes just minutes even with a toddler’s help.

4: More time to relax – that’s what we like.

So where can you take this camper trailer? Well anywhere

your adventurous side and your soft roader will go and

more, where you’ll appreciate the trailer’s excellent

departure angle for off road adventures.

Setting up & packing upNo need to set aside time to set up, it will only take

about two minutes; it is a simple matter of opening the

compartments up and stretching out the contents.

Everything is conveniently contained inside the trailer

and for those organised few among us you can even travel

with your double bed fully made.

It’s easy to access the ample storage areas from both inside

and outside the tent which is made from heavy duty Ripstop

canvas and has plenty of head height. Allocate a storage box

to each happy camper and you’ve got set up and pack up

organised in a blink. Did someone say time for a beverage?

Handy stabilisers on the side of the trailer also mean there’s

no sleeping on a slope.

The left hand side of the camp spot looked the best position

when we started setting the camper trailer up, but as the

morning progressed we decided it would be better over to

the right. No problem! No groans as we packed up poles

because there aren’t any and we didn’t need to pull out

pegs either. Moving the trailer was as simple as picking it

up and pulling it into place.

There’s plenty of room inside the trailer tent for at least

four people to sleep if necessary but I’d rather option up

with some awnings and extend the living and sleeping areas,

keeping the roomy double bed for myself.

What we loveYou’ve got to love a set up that takes around two minutes

to complete. It took us a bit longer on our first try with the

help of a curious toddler but it was certainly an easy ask. It’s

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also hard not to love the double bed and dressing room, the

lack of complicated poles, and the midge mesh over doors

and window to reduce sand fly bites. The breeze control

points and curtains over the windows outside and inside

are other practical inclusions that add to your comfort level.

I also like Conqueror’s offer to build the trailer to match

your car and travelling aspirations and the opportunity to

have upgrades retrofitted if you decide there’s something

you just can’t live without.

What we didn’t like so muchFor the softies amongst us, yes that includes me, apart

from the comfortable, longer than standard double bed and

swing out kitchen, this is a basic model without bells and

whistles. The good thing about that is that this is reflected

in the price and you can pick and choose what extras, like

internal and external LED lights, hot water system or a

fridge freezer, are going to make your life complete on the

road, and add them with ease.

Who should buy it?This is a great all-rounder offering minimal set up time and

the opportunity to sleep off the ground, features which will

appeal to everyone. With more than two cubic metres of

43 5

1 2

1/2: The slide out fridge/freezer and kitchen bench make a handy work area.

3: Set up, sit back and read the latest edition of Go Camping.

4: Plenty of room in the extra long comfy double bed.

5: Allocate a black box for each camper and camp is organised.

lockable storage, you’ve got the added advantage of a rig

where you can lock up and leave everything from camping

essentials to valuables such as trade tools. Even the jerry

cans can be secured. Think about it – working trailer during

the week and camper on the weekend, or perfect for those

working off the beaten track who need to provide their

own accommodation.

You could also lock and leave the trailer and take off on

extremely rough tracks, secure in the knowledge that your

gear is safely locked.

With the UEV-310 you’re getting many of the benefits of a

larger off-road trailer in a unit that can be towed by a soft

roader and at an entry level price.

Conqueror Australia Crafted and fine-tuned over two decades of research and development, Conqueror Australia’s Urban Escape Vehicles are perfect for off-road camping. Tailor-made in Australia with the products sourced from all over the world, the Conqueror Australia’s fleet of seven Urban Escape Vehicles have been built to handle tough Australian conditions. All Conqueror UEVs comply with the Australia Design Rules (ADR) and each unit receives an engineer’s certification before leaving the Brisbane-based workshop. Conqueror Australia’s Urban Escape Vehicles are built to travel anywhere, have top-grade amenities like hot water systems, storage and queen-sized beds and virtually zero set up time. For more information visit the Conqueror Australia website: www.ConquerorAustralia.com.au or www.youtube.com/user/UrbanEscapeVehicles

How much and where to get itThe standard UEV-310 is priced at $16,200. It’s one of a range of six Conqueror Australia UEVs available – 490, 440, 390, 330, 360 – each named after their length. Find out more at www.ConquerorAustralia.com.au



Conqueror.indd 1 30/05/12 1:08 PM


PitchPronto


Rapid pitch touring tents are a great option for those with a 4WD who want a comfortable tent with a minimum of fuss.

If you love camping, but hate fighting with poles and ropes

and erecting complicated tents that make you wish you

had an engineering degree, you’ll love the Exo Tent. Simply

drop the tent in the middle of your chosen site, stretch out

the floor, pull up the top, and hey presto, apart from a little

bit of adjusting here and there, you’re ready to roll out the

swag. We tried out the new Exo Lite 300, and were pretty

happy with the results.

FeaturesWeighing in at 22kg, this is not a light-weight tent,

although it’s not the heaviest five-person touring tent

on the market. It’s also long, one-and-a-half metres when

packed in the bag, so unless you’ve got a roof rack it’s

not something that’s going to fit in the boot of the family

sedan or in the back of your average SUV; even in a large

4WD you’ll most likely have to fold down the back seats

to get it in.

While it may not be light, it is roomy: three metres square

with 210cm of head space, plenty for even the six-footer

in our family.

Lee Atkinson tries out the new Companion Exo Lite 300

1


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1: The framework, which is integrated into the design, has an auto-locking system so there’s no need to connect poles together and thread them through fabric sleeves.

2: Quick and easy – stretch it out, pull up the top and you’re almost done.

3: Simply drop the tent in the middle of your chosen site, stretch out the floor and pull up the top, and apart from a little bit of adjusting here and there, you’re ready to roll out the swag. Straight out of the box we had the basic tent up in just a couple of minutes.

4: Easy to use tension adjusters.

Tent Review

Made from ripstop polyester with an integrated alloy frame,

it comes with a waterproof silver-coated fly and awning,

built-in door mat, zip-up guy rope pouches and a zip-up

power cord inlet as well as two three-compartment wall

storage pockets. The mesh is ultra-fine no-see-um mesh,

so as long as you keep it zipped up it’s bug free. The tub

floor is polyethylene.

There are two side windows and a rear window, each with

a gusset so you can open them up for ventilation while

still maintaining complete privacy – or protection from

the weather. If the sun is shining you can roll them up for

maximum air flow. A carry bag with handles completes

the package.

Setting up and packing upThe flyer promises that the Exo Tent has been ‘designed

without compromise to deliver unrivalled speed when

pitching your tent’, and it lives up to the claim. Straight

out of the box we had the basic tent up in just a couple of

minutes: five minutes more and the tent was pegged out,

the fly was in place, the awning set up.

The framework, which is integrated into the design, has an

auto-locking system so there’s no need to connect poles

together and thread them through fabric sleeves. The two

awning poles are twist and lock, you need just eight pegs

in good weather and the fly is secured with velcro loops

and plastic snap-lock buckles – it really is as easy to put

up as they say it is.

Packing up is a little more complicated, and unlike setting

up, which was pretty intuitive, we had to refer to the

instructions. Even then, the process was accompanied by

some less-than-elegant cursing, but it was our first time

and practice will make perfect. Like all tents, the finished

bundle looked way too big to fit in the carry bag, but the

bag is quite generous and easy to close, even with the

inexpertly rolled and rather damp tent inside.

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What we loveThis is a very comfortable tent, with plenty of

room to stand upright and walk around. The two

compartmentalised wall pockets are handy, and the

integrated door mat is a great idea – although I’d still

use a cheap door mat to scrape off mud, sand and soil

to help keep the inside tidy. But the real joy of this tent

is all about how quick and easy it is to put up.

What we didn’t like so muchThere’s nothing light about the Exo Lite; it’s so heavy

that I couldn’t haul it out of the back of the 4WD

without some help and its length when packed up

means it’s not the most easily portable tent around.

The polyester fabric is not as flame resistant as canvas,

nor as breathable, so condensation is an issue.

Who should buy it The Exo Lite 300 officially sleeps five, but they would

have to be close friends. It works best for a couple who

like to have some room to move and store bags. Two

people could survive a couple of days of wet weather

in the Exo Lite 300 without going crazy. It’s ideal for

those who want the luxury of space and almost instant

set up, without the hassle of towing a camper trailer

or van.

2

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3Tent Review

1: The Exo comes with a waterproof silver-coated fly and awning and built-in door mat.

2: The Exo Lite 300 is long; even in a large 4WD you’ll most likely have to fold down the back seats to get it in.

3: Plastic snap-lock buckles make attaching the fly a breeze.

4: This is a very comfortable tent, with plenty of room to stand upright and walk around.

How much and where to get itThe Exo Tent range is available at Anaconda and all good camping stores.

Prices range from $595 for the Exo Lite 210 up to $1795 for the monster-sized Exo Pro 610, sleeping 10.

Our tent, the Exo Lite 300, costs $799.

For more information and stockists, visit www.companionleisure.com.au

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e n g i n e e r e d f o r s p e e d

FEATURES• All alloy frame and components • 100% waterproof tent and fly • Large awning area• Built-in door mats • Large D Doors • Zip up guy rope pouches • Zip up power cord inlet • Wall storage pockets • Carry bag

EXO CROWN MECHANISM

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NOTHING SLOWS DOWN THE EXO TENT.The new Exo range of tents by Companion have been designed without compromise to deliver unrivalled speed when pitching your tent. The unique alloy exoskeletal framework features a precision engineered auto-locking system so you can set up in minutes without the need to connect poles together and thread them through fabric sleeves. The durable alloy feet also provide maximum contact with the ground, providing unparalleled stability to ensure your Exo tent remains standing in all weather conditions.

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If you’re travelling into remote areas of the Outback you’ll need to be self-sufficient, particularly when it comes to water, food and fuel.

Store your water in a number of containers so if you spring a leak in

one, you haven’t lost the lot. Allow five litres, per person, per day.

Carry more fuel than you think you might need: your fuel consumption

will increase by up to 50 per cent if driving in low range over sand dunes

and fuel and supply outlets in remote areas are not always open after

hours or at weekends and often don’t take credit cards.

But beyond these basics, there are some other things you really should

never leave home without.

EPIRB Often also called at PLB (personal locator beacon), an EPIRB

(emergency position-indicating radio beacon) could save your life in

the event of a serious emergency. When activated, the beacon sends

out a distress signal. The number one rule of Outback survival is to

never, ever leave your vehicle if you get into trouble. Most people who

have perished in the Outback have died while trying to walk to help.

Wait until help comes to you. Having an EPIRB means people will be

able to find you, quickly. If you don’t want to buy one (they cost several

hundred dollars) many police stations and national park offices will

hire you one, or check out www.epirbhire.com.au

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Satellite phoneMobile phone access is non-existent in the

Outback. Hire a satellite phone so you can

stay in touch – or call for help if needed.

They receive their signal from satellites that

are orbiting the Earth, and as long as there

is a clear line of sight between the satellite

phone’s antenna and the sky you can make

phone calls. Some tourist information

centres in remote areas have sat phones

you can hire, or visit www.satellitehire.com.au; www.rentasatphone.com.au

UHF radioA hand-held, short range (up to 10km,

usually less) radio is another must if

heading off the beaten track, especially

in desert dune country. Use the radio to

alert oncoming vehicles of your presence,

or to warn other travellers of hazards and

problems. Chatting with other travellers can

also be a lot of fun, just make sure you don’t

clog up an emergency channel. You can find

a handy list of channels and what they are

used for at http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Accessories/UHFRadio.aspx

First aid kit and fire extinguisherCarry a good basic first aid kit with

bandages and sterile dressings, band aids,

antiseptic cream, tweezers, scissors, saline

eye wash or drops and headache tablets.

You should also make sure you have an

easy-to-reach fire extinguisher.

10 things you need when heading off the

beaten track

1: As long as there is a clear line of sight between the satellite phone’s antenna and the sky you can make phone calls on a sat phone.

2: Always carry a spare spare.

3: Chatting with other travellers can also be a lot of fun, just make sure you don’t clog up an emergency channel.

4: Use a radio to alert oncoming vehicles of your presence when driving in dunes.

5: When driving through drifts of sand, lower your tyre pressure to around 15 psi to help avoid getting bogged.

6: Emergency position-indicating radio beacons send out a distress signal, which means rescue parties are able to track your location.

7: A PLB could save your life.

8: Desert country ‘snatch straps’ are the best option.

9: Desert dunes.

10: An EPIRB could save your life.

Remote area

survival kit

Uni

den

74-75 _NeedtoKnow.indd 74 29/05/12 4:11 PM


Recovery gearOutback tracks can be tricky, and

you’ll need to have the right gear if

you find yourself bogged or stuck.

A winch is handy in mountainous

and heavily forested terrain, but

for desert country, ‘snatch straps’

(vehicle recovery straps) are the

best option. Made from heavy-

duty nylon or polyester webbing,

you can attach the strap to another

vehicle to pull the stuck one free. A

long handle shovel is also essential for

digging the sand out from under your car

when you get stuck.

Fuel stove Never rely on being able to have an open fire. Wood

may not be available, or it may be wet. In some national parks

collecting firewood is prohibited, as is the use of open fires, particularly

during times of high fire danger. Always carry a fuel stove.

Desert Parks PassIf heading into the South Australian Outback you will need to purchase

a Desert Parks Pass for access and camping (where permitted) for

a period of 12 months. Areas covered include Simpson Desert,

Innamincka, Coongie Lakes, Lake Eyre, Witjira National Park, Tallaringa

Conservation Park, Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation

Park (camping not permitted) and Strzelecki Regional Reserve. These

cost $125 ($75 to renew) but are good value as they include a useful

information pack and excellent detailed maps. You can buy passes at

various Department of Environment and Heritage (DEH) and National

Parks Offices through the state. For Desert Parks Passes call the

Desert Parks hotline 1800 816 078 or visit www.parks.sa.gov.au

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Need to Know

Useful TipsIf you’ve never been Outback before, consider

signing up for a 4WD training course before you

leave. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its

full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots

and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear.

Courses are available in all states and most regional

centres. Search the internet or phone book under

‘4WD driver training’.

Basic tools and spares A basic tool kit should include engine oil,

coolant, jumper leads, fuel filter, spare

radiator hoses and engine drive belts,

and the tools you’ll need to replace them.

Wheel replacement tools are essential,

including a jacking plate: finding hard level

ground can be difficult in sandy terrain. An

exhaust lift jack can be very helpful: plug

the hose into your exhaust pipe, position

the balloon under the frame of the car and

let the exhaust lift the car up so you can

change the tyre.

A spare spare The Outback is notoriously hard on tyres.

Razor-edged rocks and sharp sticks can

stake or pierce tyres, and bulldust patches

can appear without warning: the end of the

dust patch will often have a hard edge that

can damage your tyres or even the wheel

rims. Always carry a second spare tyre.

Air compressor When driving over sand hills or through

drifts of sand, lower your tyre pressure

to around 15 psi to help avoid getting

bogged. You’ll need an air compressor to

reinflate tyres when back on hard ground.

You’ll need to spend $100 or more to get a

reliable one that takes less than a week to

reinflate each tyre. Buy yourself a quality

tyre pressure gauge as well. The one on the

compressor may not be accurate.

Bill

McK

inno

n

AR

B

McM

urdo

Uni

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74-75 _NeedtoKnow.indd 75 29/05/12 4:12 PM


Winterwarmer pies

Words and photos: Julie Bishop and Regina Jones

Chicken Corn PieThe savoury flavour of the corn and bacon

together in a creamy sauce will be popular with

the family. This is an easy to remember recipe

to whip up at the last minute for toasted jaffles

or just spoon on toast. Serves 4 adults.

Ingredients:500gm diced chicken 2 strips of bacon1 onion, diced1 can Campbell’s Cream of Chicken and Corn Soup¼ cup cheese 250gm sour cream 1 frozen sheet of shortcrust pastry1 frozen sheet of puff pastry1 egg, beaten

Method:Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees. Brown chicken,

bacon and onion in a fry pan. Drain any excess

fat. Reduce heat to add soup, cheese and sour

cream, stirring while pouring into pan. This

mixture can be made in advance and frozen.

Line a greased pie dish with short crust pastry,

trim excess. Cook in oven for 5 minutes. Add the

chicken mixture. Place a sheet of puff pastry on

top and trim excess. Make a little design on top

with left over pastry. Brush with egg. Place in

oven and cook for 30 minutes.

Handy Hint: Pre-heat camp oven with trivet

for 10 minutes.

Puff pastry sheets can be a bother to keep frozen

in the camp fridge and safely packaged. What you

can do at home is slightly thaw the puff pastry

for a couple of minutes and then cut them in half,

fold the cardboard packet around pastry, put in

a Décor 1.75L oblong container and refreeze.

Now they will travel safely at the bottom of the

camp fridge or small caravan freezer.

Shepherd’s PieIngredients:4 medium potatoes, peeled2 tbl butter500gm mince1 diced onion500gm of frozen mixed veggies, thawed½ cup water3 tbl tomato sauce2 tbl worcestershire sauce1 beef stock cube2 tbl cornflour blended with waterSalt & pepperOption: 1 cup grated cheese to sprinkle on top

Method:Boil potatoes. Fry mince and onions in a deep pan.

Add remaining ingredients except flour. Bring to

boil. Lower heat and gently boil for 10 minutes,

stir occasionally. Stir in cornflour to thicken while

still on gentle boil for further 5 minutes. Mash

potato with butter, spoon onto top of pie. Sprinkle

cheese on top, place the frypan under the grill

until golden.

DreamPot methodPut the potatoes into the large inner pot. Cover

with hot water and bring to the boil. Simmer

for 10 minutes then transfer into DreamPot.

Combine remaining ingredients into the small

inner pot except flour. Bring to boil on stove

top. Stir intermittently. Reduce heat; simmer

for 8 minutes with lid on. Stir in flour, cook for

3 minutes. Transfer into DreamPot over the

potatoes for 20 minutes.

Remove potatoes from large inner pot, mash with

butter (no milk). Spoon over the mince mixture and

sprinkle with paprika. Place back into DreamPot

to keep hot until served.

Our philosophy with camp cooking is to keep it simple and tasty with the equipment and the method. Plan your meals well.

Whatever can be cooked at home and frozen to take away gives the camp chef more holiday time.

Avoid fiddling and fussing as the sun is setting the bugs

are biting, just pull out a pie!

76-77 _Dine.indd 76 29/05/12 4:14 PM


Mango PieIngredients:1 tetra pack 250ml juice popper¼ cup sugar5 heaped tbl custard powder 450gm can mango slices, chopped1 sheet of shortcrust pastry cut into 4 4 individual pie tins

Method:Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees. Drain mango

and save juice. Combine juices (500ml), sugar

and custard powder in a saucepan. Bring to

boil, reduce heat and keep stirring until mixture

thickens. Set aside to cool. Line the greased

pie dishes with short crust pastry, trim excess.

Cook in oven for 5 minutes. Remove pastry

cases from oven and place 2 large spoonfuls of

mango on base. Pour custard filling over top. Make

a little design on top with left over pastry. Bake for

30 minutes. Serve with long life cream.

Dine

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Perfect for home or away. Essential for caravanning, camping and motorhoming. Discover the DreamPot difference! Comprehensive recipe book included. Optional accessories available.

76-77 _Dine.indd 77 29/05/12 4:14 PM


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Steak and Kidney with Parsley DumplingsAn oldie and a goodie to warm a winter’s heart. We used diced rump steak with lamb kidneys

for a milder flavour. Thumbs up from the Hunter Gatherers! Serves 4 adults.

Method:In a large pot, brown the meat and onions. Add the

pepper and beef stock. Bring to the boil and simmer

for 1hr 15 minutes. Prepare dumplings – mix flour and

salt. Rub butter through with fingertips to resemble

breadcrumbs. Mix in parsley. Add water gradually until

you achieve a soft dough. Make into small balls. Stir

Gravox into steak and kidney mixture. Place dumpling

balls on top and cook for a further 15 minutes covered.

DreamPot methodWe used a 3ltr DreamPot for this recipe. Brown the

meat and onions on stovetop. Add the pepper and beef

stock and gently boil for 20 minutes. Stir in Gravox. Place

dumplings on top and simmer for 2 minutes. Transfer into

DreamPot and cook for a minimum 2 hours.

Ingredients: 700gm diced steak & kidney

2 onions, sliced

¼ tsp black pepper

1 beef stock cube dissolved in 1½ cups hot water

3 tbl Gravox

Salt to taste

Oil for frying

Ingredients: (Parsley Dumplings)2 cups SR Flour

pinch salt

60gm butter

1 tsp dried parsley

½ to ¾ cup water

76-77 _Dine.indd 78 29/05/12 4:15 PM


4WD Techniques

Hands up who has sat around the dining room table, the backyard swimming pool or even on the phone discussing and arguing about the best way to take off into the bush for a great camping holiday.

Going soloLet’s take the single person wanting to head away for a

weekend or slightly longer. He or she is happy to ‘rough

it’, wants to be quickly set up and packed away each day.

A canvas swag or a small tent may be perfect for sleeping.

Add a single butane cooker, two burner LPG cooker or

even a BBQ along with the basic cooking utensils. An

esky is a cheap alternative to a two or three-way fridge,

but do keep in mind that you’ll need to be replacing the

ice periodically. Chairs and table are often left behind for

those roughing it, but if you’ve got them they’ll make life

so much more comfortable.

While a swag may be the quickest and easiest way to hit

the sack each night (remember, it’s got your sleeping bag,

sheet and pillow all rolled into one) as well as quickest to

pack away in the morning, a general rule is that the swag is

for sleeping in – not living in! You’ll have no room to sit up in

bed to read, to get changed or do anything other than sleep.

With a small tent, which may take a little longer to erect, you

can have all the privacy you want. Just make sure you watch

out for your shadows from the 12-volt light at

night time! You’ll have to purchase and carry the

mattress and all other sleeping gear separately

but you’ll have respite from the weather if needed.

Having a few tarps, poles and pegs would be a great idea,

regardless of which solo camping gear you use. There’s

nothing worse than trying to camp in the pouring rain or

blazing heat without any form of cover.

Words and photos: Mark Allen

Top take off

TipsTravelling light or taking the tribe, choose your kit carefully for a top trip

A swag is a great option provided you don’t want to sit up in bed and read at night, and you’ll need extra

tarps if you want shade

79-81 _4WD Tech.indd 79 29/05/12 4:17 PM


The familyOkay, now we step into the small group camping – we’ve

got mum, dad and a handful of kids to keep happy. You’ll

need a family tent large enough to sleep everyone with

enough space left over to store luggage bags and general

camping gear. Remember, for every piece of camp gear you

take, there will be a cover, bag or box that has to be stored

until it’s time to pack it all away.

Dome tents, touring tents, cabin tents, roof top tents or

even tents on wheels, the list is endless when it come to

choice of design. Choose one that can be easily set up

without every single group member taking part – there’s

plenty of other things to get ready at campsite other than

the setting of a tent.

If you intend on hitting some pretty hard 4WD tracks or

looking at doing tracks where trailers are prohibited, you

could have a problem with your camper trailer. Then not

only will you have to carry all the people, the food, the

games in your 4WD, but you’ll have to squeeze all that

camping gear in as well. Perhaps it’s time to think about a

roof rack and storage system! If you can afford the luxury

of taking a sturdy box trailer, just think of all the added

‘comfort’ you can bring.

You will not want to be sitting on the ground trying to

cook and eat like the single fella who’s ‘roughing it’. You’ll

want tables, chairs, a decent cooking station and plenty

of light for night time. There’s a plethora of barbecues to

suit cooking up your favourite food, a million and one types

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4WD Techniques

of folding chairs to slouch in, numerous styles of 12-volt

and LPG lights to turn night into day, but always take into

consideration what will best suit your needs.

No point taking a solid or grated barbecue plate if you

intend heating up soup – take a gas ring burner as well. No

point taking a slouch chair if you intend using it at the table

to eat – use a chair that sits upright. No point taking power

sapping 12-volt lights if you don’t have the battery power

to run them – consider gas lights, extra battery power and

longer lasting LEDs.

While on the subject of lights, make sure you have a few

hand held flash lights for midnight walks to the toilets. It’s

no fun feeling your way in unfamiliar territory!

The tent on wheelsThis is the serious end of camping. Being able to tow a

camper trailer provides a luxurious accommodation

package with huge amounts of sleeping area, covered

standing room, protection from the weather, built in

cooking equipment and so much more storage room for

all those ‘must have’ pieces of camping gear. Just be sure the

unit you choose is quick and easy to set up and dismantle.

There’s no point having an acre of covered area under that

huge awning if it takes an hour to set it all up. A basic rule

is, if it’s too hard and too timely to set up, it won’t get used.

Don’t waste your time and money taking it along.

If you’re contemplating purchasing a camper trailer, be

sure that both you and your vehicle are capable of towing

79-81 _4WD Tech.indd 80 29/05/12 4:18 PM


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1: Don’t forget you’ll need to charge your batteries if you’re camping in the one spot for a number a days.

2: There’s more than one use for a billy and bucket – you can get away with anything when you’re only 6 months old!

3: Here it all is, packed into a 4WD.

4: Forget the telly – a sunset can provide more inspiration than any soapie.

5: No one around for miles to annoy you – that’s one of the best things about camping.

6: Roof top tents are quick and easy for people on the move.

it where you intend camping (you may well need extra

recovery equipment) and that you are actually allowed

to take trailers to your chosen destination (some places

have banned trailers).

Towing anything will add to your fuel consumption figures,

so will cost you more on the road, but the advantages will

probably far outweigh the disadvantages.

You’ll also have an extra vehicle to look after while on the

road. Wheel bearings, brakes, lights and general electrics

need to be cared for and need regular maintenance when

back in civilisation.

Who wins?There’s no doubt there are countless numbers of ‘perfect

setups’ for the many battle-hardened campers who

‘know all’, but that’s not to say they have got it right for

your own individual needs. There also may be newer and

better products available since those ‘oldies’ first started

going bush.

My advice is to look, listen and learn from all those who

have gone before you, pick out the best parts that suit

you, wrap them all into one kit and add or change where

necessary after your first time out.

Make that first camp a short one to sort everything out.

Take a note pad along and jot down the things you didn’t

use, the things you forgot and the things you want included

next time you get out into the great unknown world of

camping under the stars… and enjoy every second of it.

TOP 11 TIPS FOR OUTBACK TRAVEL01. Take plenty of tarps – they make

great protection from both sun and rain or as ground sheets.

02. Take plenty of poles, spreader bars and ropes to rig up your tarps.

03. Take meshed sheets to put under your tent – they make packing up easier and cleaner and won’t hold water like a tarp. They are also perfect for using as a mat to walk on.

04. Take a variety of pegs – small metal pegs won’t hold in the sand and plastic sand pegs can’t be hammered into very hard ground.

05. Take replacement batteries for torches – the dark makes campsites seem oh so large.

06. Pack light – too much weight will kill even the best 4WD.

07. Heed signs and information about where and when you can camp.

08. Keep it simple; it’s amazing how much you can do without and still enjoy your camping.

09. Take your time and experience all camping has to offer.

10. Take plenty of food and water for each member of your camping party.

11. Relaxinfrontofacampfire–itbeatsTV hands down.

79-81 _4WD Tech.indd 81 29/05/12 4:18 PM


CrittersOutback

Words and photos: Lee Mylne and Len Zell

Camping in Outback and desert areas gives us

the chance to see some of Australia’s most

bizarre and unique creatures up close.

While we may think of Outback animals as those

we see while driving – large, agile animals such as

kangaroos, wallabies or emus – spending time in

red dust country can reveal many small creatures

that are just as unusual and interesting.

While camping, especially if you are bush

camping and spend some quiet time just observing

what is around you, there is the chance to see

some amazing critters.

Scorpions, spiders, skinks, geckos, dragons,

snakes and goannas are just some of them. Sadly,

many smaller mammals have been lost or removed

due to loss of habitat or because of feral predators.

Whenever you travel or camp in desert country,

look for tracks and scats that will tell you what

is around. A good reference book to work out

what’s what is Tracks, Scats and Other Traces, by

Barbara Trigg.

There are more than 840 species of reptiles

in Australia and among the more common ones

you may see are the lizards and dragons. Reptiles

thrive in deserts and Outback areas because of

their protective skins.

The Ningaloo Coast region of northern

Western Australia has the highest density of

lizards of any arid land in the world. It is common

to see monitor lizards, dragons and shinglebacks

on or near the roads.

All are more active during the cooler times of

the day, but they need the warmth of the sun to

1: Termitemounds,LitchfieldNationalPark.

2:Shinglebacklizard.

3:Termitemounds,LitchfieldNationalPark.

4:Lacemonitor.

place for migratory birds, such

as the buff-breasted paradise-

kingfisher which build nests between

November and April, before returning to

Papua New Guinea.

Another animal that makes use of termite

mounds is the lace monitor, the largest lizard

found in Wet Tropics and the second largest lizard

in Australia. Lace monitors also deposit their eggs

in termite nests, often those built in trees. The

lizard makes a hole to gain entry, which is later

sealed by termites, enclosing the eggs. The stable

temperature inside the nest helps incubate the

eggs, and female lizards are believed to return

to the termite nest when their eggs are ready

to hatch to open it up with her claws to release

the young. Lace monitors lay between six and

12 eggs each year.

Lace monitors can grow to more than two

metres in length and are commonly seen around

picnic areas and campsites, scavenging for scraps.

They are a great sight, but please do not feed them.

Patience and quiet time around the campsite,

especially around dusk, can bring with it some

wonderful encounters with wildlife. And don’t

forget to have your camera handy!

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allow them to hunt effectively.

Some species feed only at night.

If you are looking for them, check

out clumps of spinifex where animals may be

hiding in cracks and crevices in the soil, or in rocks

and trees.

Termite colonies are a feature of landscape

right across northern Australia and you don’t even

have to get off the beaten track to check them

out. The distinctive ‘cathedral’ mounds of spinifex

termites have large buttresses and are the most

striking but there are various different kinds of

mounds built by other species of termites.

The mounds are built by colonies of termites

which mix together mud and saliva that hardens

into a cement-like substance. The mounds can

reach up to six metres in height, take more than

50 years to complete and can contain up to several

million inhabitants. Inside, the mound is a maze of

chambers and underground tunnels that regulate

the temperature. Nests are usually maintained at

a temperature between 25°C and 36°C.

A good place to see magnetic termite mounds is

Litchfield National Park in the Northern Territory.

A large group is located about 17km from the

eastern boundary of the park, and there is a

formal viewing area off Litchfield Park Road in

the northern area of the park, where boardwalks

allow you to get close to two-metre-high magnetic

mounds, which are aligned north-south, and four-

metre-high cathedral mounds.

As well as being homes for insects that build

them, termite mounds are often used as a nesting

Small creatures in a big land C

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82-83 _Wildlife.indd 82 29/05/12 4:20 PM


Fulfil an experience that’s over the top!

Enjoy a journey of discovery as the MV Trinity Bay cruises its way through the protected waters inside the

Great Barrier Reef of Far North Queensland. Viewing the wild inaccessible coastline and National Park areas with rocky headlands, rainforests and sweeping bays.

Enjoy an exclusive journey sailing on board Australia’s last remaining

passenger-carrying cargo ship

The MV Trinity Bay departs Cairns every Friday. A round-trip takes 5 nights with the vessel calling in at Horn Island, Thursday Island and Seisia Wharf (Bamaga). There is the opportunity to partake in optional tours to complete your experience of this remarkable and remote region.** With only 15 passenger cabins, ensuite or shared facilities, you are advised to book early to secure a place on this unique and popular voyage.

*Fare based on triple share cabin, shared facilities, for travel between November 1, 2011 and March 31, 2012. Rates between April 1, 2012 and October 31, 2012 start at $1075 per person triple share. Prices include GST and are subject to change. All departures and schedules are subject to cargo and weather considerations. For Terms & Conditions, see our website or request an Information Booklet. **Optional tours are operated by outside companies. Extra charges apply and their operation is subject to weather conditions.

$775* per person

return travel, including all meals

CAIRNS

Seisia

Horn IslandThursday

Island

One-way trips available either north or southbound. You

can sail with your vehicle and complete the journey overland

in the other direction. Freight charges apply.

For more information visit our website: www.seaswift.com.au To request an Information Booklet or make a booking call 1800 424 422 or email: [email protected]

FROM

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Wildlife Watch

Lee Mylne and Len Zell run the Wild Discovery Guides website www.wilddiscoveryguides.com

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NT

82-83 _Wildlife.indd 83 29/05/12 4:21 PM


Easy cookNew Wave Kitchen Appliances’ Induction

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use a wet cloth with some mild detergent.

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www.newwavekitchenappliances.com.au

or 1800 337 211

Shockproof phoneThe Huawei Discovery Expedition is

the perfect mobile phone for weekend

warriors after a tough and durable

device that will stand up to the rigours

of outdoor adventures. Shockproof,

waterproof and dustproof, the Discovery

Expedition is as sophisticated as it is

tough, and packed with outdoor functionality

features, such as GPS, digital compass,

G-sensor and SOS. Equipped with Facebook

and Twitter social networking capabilities,

users can not only experience their weekend

adventures to the max without the fear of

breaking their mobile, but also share the

experience with friends and family.

The Discovery Expedition is available

exclusively at Vodafone on a great range

of postpaid plans and prepaid, starting at

$0 upfront on Vodafone’s $19 Plan over

24-months, or $199 to use with Vodafone

Prepaid. For more info visit

www.huaweimobile.com.au

Big soundSmall, but it’s big on performance,

VibebOx is one of the world’s

most compact amplifiers. Specially

designed for small and compact spaces,

VibebOx amplifies sound with clarity.

Place VibebOx on any hollow surface and

you’ll be amazed at the sound! Ideal for iPods,

iPhones, MP3 players, it can even be used as a

television speaker. VibebOx also takes mini SD

cards, so now you can enjoy listening to all your

favourites wherever you go. With an output

power of just 7watts, VibebOx incorporates a

rechargeable lithium battery via any USb port.

VibebOx sells for RRP $95. Visit

www.vibebox.com.au

Breakfast sortedMore than just oats, brookfarm’s new gourmet Power Porrij and Gluten

Free Porrij include organic supergrains such as quinoa, amaranth and

golden flaxseed. Add in some South Australian almonds and macadamia

nuts from byron bay and you’ve got a rich nutty texture. Add milk or

water and cook for a short time, top with a drizzle of honey, a sprinkle of

cinnamon and you’ve got a great tasting breakfast that’s also good for you.

Find it for RRP $9.50. More information at www.brookfarm.com.au

Just what you need for your next outdoor adventure

new gearTop

Words: Kerry Heaney

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Avocado on the goNew Fressure Avocado Spread contains the goodness of two fresh avocados – and

with no additives or preservatives, it’s 100 per cent pure. It is the ultimate convenience

food that’s good for you too! Delicious on toast, as a healthy alternative to your regular

spread, or served in salads, wraps or as a base for homemade dips. Find it at Coles

supermarkets nationwide RRP $3.99. Find out more at www.fressurefoods.co.nz

New gen sports footwearZori Pump is a sports-orientated, ergonomic

soled slip-on with a strong but ultra

comfortable upper, keeping the foot in place.

It’s good for lower back pain sufferers and

people who suffer from sore joints, healthy for

your feet, lightweight, stylish and inexpensive.

The Neat Zori Thong has a built-in heel cup,

significant arch support and built-in metatarsal

pad which makes for a foot bed of comfort.

Available in black and tan and black, sizes

6-12, Neat Zori are available through leading

pharmacies and retail for RRP $59.95.

Roll over traditional sleeping bag!Ever been camping and wished you could walk around in your cosy

sleeping bag without having to do the hop-and-hope-I-don’t-land-on-

my-face? The clever selk’bag is designed to fit the wearer and unlike

traditional sleeping bags, you won’t get tangled up when you roll over

in your sleep. The selk’bag even has durable nylon soles so you can

walk around the camp site in it, which will make those cold mornings

and nights much more pleasant. Your hands can be easily released so

you can eat, drink or even go fishing in it. Air vents can be opened if

you get too warm. The selk’bag comes in Classic, Lite and Kids priced

from RRP $99 to $199. Find out more at www.selkbag.com.au

Easy navigationThe Magellan eXplorist 110

outdoor GPS offers easy to use quality

navigation designed for those who enjoy leisure

activities including hiking, cycling and camping

but don’t necessarily consider themselves the

Bear Grylls type. Features include a coloured

transflective screen that is readable in direct

sunlight, a Hunt and Fish calendar with useful

tidal information for fishermen as well as Sun

and Moon calendar that tells users the time the

sun sets to help them prepare for when it gets

dark. The model is also waterproof, can store

500 waypoints and can be clipped to a lanyard

so it sits comfortably around your neck or off

your backpack or bike. RRP $149 and available

from major outdoor retailers.

www.magellan.com.au

Safe packThe new Venturesafe 32L anti-theft travel

backpack is an essential travel companion,

perfect for long weekends or short

trips, and meets international carry-on

standards. For those who can’t bear to be

disconnected from the world for too long,

it even fits a laptop or iPad. The padded

air mesh back support, waistbelt, sternum

strap and padded shoulder straps,

also make this backpack exceptionally

comfortable. Features include slashproof

straps, hidden pockets, zipper security,

two water pockets and a hidden, zippered

pocket. Available in black and priced at

RRP $239.95. For stockists go to

www.osabrands.com

84-85 _gear to go.indd 85 29/05/12 4:24 PM


Danielle Lancaster is a

professional photographer who

loves sharing her passion with

others. Her company Bluedog

Photography shoots a range

of imagery for corporate and

private clients and runs Bluedog

Photography Courses, Retreats

and Tours.

Contact: (07) 5545 4777

www.blue-dog.com.au

Chem

istry

of

Words and photos: Danielle Lancaster

Here are five top tips:1. Strong, bold coloursDeep saturated colours give real impact but the key to using them is

keep your composition simple and try not to include too many colours.

The top tip here is to use a polarising filter. They deepen colour saturation.

2. Subtle, pastel coloursSometimes less is better and subtle colour can create mood to your image. To

achieve this it is best to take your image on an overcast day when the light is diffused

and look for objects that will suit this effect such as flowers, chairs, still life. This effect

can be achieved in post processing by desaturating colours using hue/saturation.

3. One strong colour against a neutral backgroundThis works a charm when used with texture such as bricks, peeling paint or any neutral

background such as grey or black. The background will accentuate the colour of your

object and really make it stand out.

4. Let one colour dominateAllow one colour to stand out and become the main subject of your photograph. Try

and use a primary colour such as red, yellow or blue. This gives the image punch and

really catches the viewer’s attention.

5. Colour balance with the colour wheelThe colour wheel is a handy tool and knowing how different colours work with each

other is a big advantage and the great news it’s so simple to use. Colours close to each

other complement each other and give a relaxing and calming feel. A prime example is

autumn leaves. Colours opposite each other are high contrast and make your image

dramatic and dynamic such as yellow and purple.

Make your images pop with colour

Photo Smart

Colour

86 _PhotoSmart.indd 86 29/05/12 4:26 PM

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The prize must be taken as offered. There is no cash alternative.Conditions: James baroud/Go Camping australia subscription competition is open to all readers who subscribe, renew or receive

a gift subscription for one or two years. the winner will be notified by mail and/or telephone.

Yes, i want to subscribe/renew for my chance to win a discovery Space evolution off Road Roof top tent valued at $3900.00 RRP

June

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ly 2

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SubScribe & Win!SubScribe to Go camping Australia and you could WiN a

DiScovery SpAce evolutioN off roAD roof top teNt

valued at $3900.00 rrp

Autobivouac – The Australian Importer and Distributor of James baroud tents.At the forefront of cutting edge technology, James Baroud developed automatic opening systems for hard top roof top tents. Of the highest European quality, meeting international standards (iSo certified), 100% waterproof and comes with a 5 year unconditional warranty.Go Camping Australia is proud to present the new model Discovery Space evolution at Brisbane’s Caravan and Camping Show (8 - 14 June).

(02) 6646 1012 www.jamesbaroud.com.au

87 James Baroud Subscription Page.indd 1 29/05/12 4:27 PM


DesertsJust

Words and photos: David McGonigal

While every environment has the potential

to harm the innocent traveller, deserts

are the setting where the threat is barely

veiled behind stark beauty. Many years ago I

discovered the danger of deserts is real. It was in

Afghanistan, back in the days when that nation

attracted foreign visitors not in uniform.

We had a map, a dog-eared depiction of the

well-trod tracks between Singapore and London.

In our hotel in Kabul we saw that there were

two routes across Afghanistan: the sealed road

south from Kabul to Kandahar and onwards to

Herat and a direct dotted line from east to west

marked ‘scenic’. Trevor, my touring companion,

and I elected to take that one as “the dirt roads

will get us away from the crowds and, after all,

how bad can it be?”

Three days later we were in the middle of

Afghanistan, on a featureless plain with the

horizon broken only by a smudge of mountains

to the far north. Our little blue plastic tent was the

only incongruity. As a campsite, it left everything

to be desired.

It wasn’t of our choosing. The road was

impassable, a slick mud bath with a frictional

coefficient of zero but even that was irrelevant

because my motorcycle clutch had burned out

an hour ago after congealed mud locked my back

wheel to the (poorly named) mudguard. With the

engine no longer linked to the rear wheel I was

going nowhere. On the bright side, although

Trevor’s bike’s engine had seized when he fell into

preserve the engine oil, cut the box into several

doughnut shapes, and packed the clutch with

cardboard.

Soon the journey continued. With my clutch

permanently engaged I had to push start the

bike and couldn’t readily stop it. And hepatitis

left me weak so that I couldn’t hold the bike when I

stopped. Several hundred deep river crossings lay

before Herat. At each, I couldn’t stop so charged in

and hoped for the best. It sometimes worked out.

The road became a track, then a trail, then

entered a narrow defile and became merely a

rocky creek bed. It was rough going – one day

we rode from dawn to dusk to cover 24 kilometres.

A few days later we rejoined the highway and

our dusty tyres touched tar again. In Herat we

rejoiced, celebrated and rehydrated by buying and

devouring a watermelon and honeydew melon.

Decades later I continue to seek out deserts,

despite their best efforts to stop me. The

Sahara? My BMW’s electrical system collapsed

in southern Morocco and for 12 months the

entire ignition ran through the cigarette lighter

socket. The Gobi? In Mongolia I had to use a car

shock absorber reverently placed on a Buddhist

chorten to hammer my alloy rim back into a shape

that resembled round. The Taklamakan Desert,

Central Australia, Death Valley, the Atacama have

all posed their challenges.

Throughout them all I’ve learned that an

adventure is simply a disaster you live to tell

about.

the icy mud it appeared to be running again. Our

dilemma was enhanced by gossip in the last village

that we may be the last vehicles before winter

snows closed the passes. We had no food – and

little water. We didn’t have any money either but,

in the complete absence of shops, buildings or

people, that wasn’t an immediate handicap. And

it was still raining (we had no way of capturing

the water).

We were poster people for venturing well out

of our depth.

It had been a remarkable journey as we’d

visited the Buddhas of Bamiyan and the azure

blue bathtub lakes of Band-i-Amir and dined

with the nomads of central Asia. Ironically, earlier

when we’d pushed Trevor’s highly tuned and

temperamental Honda over the ultimate summit

we considered our troubles over. The skeleton

of a camel marked the highest point. We even

welcomed the first light rain that settled the all-

pervasive red dust. But the rain soon turned the

dust into slick glue. As the sun set I found I was

having a relapse of the hepatitis I’d contracted in

Kathmandu. Exhausted, dispirited and hungry, we

crawled into our sleeping bags.

The next day dawned bright and clear and the

road had dried. Unfortunately, my clutch hadn’t

miraculously healed itself. Still, with a sense of

optimism we set forth, Trevor towing my bike

about 20 kilometres to the next tiny village.

Fortunately, it once had some oranges delivered

in a cardboard case. I laid the bike on its side to

Holidays and Horror Days

SolutionsDesert travel is all about

preparation, notification and

edification. Have the parts and

knowhow to fix vehicles when

they go wrong – and enough water

and food to survive when you

can’t. Tell someone where you

are going – and carry a satellite

phone to call for help, battery and

coverage permitting. But research

to know what to expect is the best

way to ensure you don’t get into

trouble in the desert.

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_IBC ARB.indd 1 29/05/12 12:20 PM

www.outdoorconnection.com.au

CONNECTION

Quality gear for the best of times

Heron2 Room

Brampton3 Room

BedarraDeluxe 2 Room

This innovative tent features Outdoor Connection’s Hornet Pole Design which gives excellent internal space and headroom with near vertical side walls. Ventraflow panels and large windows and doors guarantee excellent ventilation for hot summer weather. The unique optional awning side walls help make a truly usable awning area.

The Weekender is the one room tent in Outdoor Connection’s Resort Range which all share the Hornet Pole Design, large windows and doors and many other features.

Tents in Resort Range:-

Weekender1 Room

The Weekender Tent finished with the highest score in the “What to buy” section of CHOICE Tent Comparison.

Weekender Dome Tent(Shown with optional side walls)

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go camping australia - issue 79

Documents

primus series

primus range

primus ad1 fridge

gold fridge

outback campswas

remote landscape

clever features

unique features