Girl TalkBy Lofa Totua New Zealand’s unique fashion industry is celebrated through the many designers who are innovators and passionate about what they do. With the help of social media, certain aspects of New Zealand fashion such as modelling, have become accepted into the mainstream media.

Models have a massive impact on a designer’s label. They also have an impact on women in today’s society. Women are influenced and often aspire to be like the slim, tall and effortlessly beautiful women and girls that are everywhere from the covers of magazines to billboards and TV commercials. Unfortunately most of these women are still European-centric. I definitely think there is a need for more diversity in modelling, especially as Auckland is known for being a multicultural city.

There also seems to be more teenage

models, some as young as 15 years old. As a 16 year old myself, I wonder, how do young models manage to balance their life? I can’t even imagine what it’s like with studies, family, friends, social life, social media accounts, extra-curricular activities, and on top of that modelling, traveling and everything that comes with it?

As a Samoan/New Zealander, I think there should be less focus on the younger models and more attention on building up models from a variety of cultures. The fashion industry needs to use its voice to promote diversity and challenge society’s opinion on what is considered beautiful. We are all beautiful.

My name is Lofa Totua. I’m 16 years old and I attend St. Mary’s College in Ponsonby. I have an appreciation for New Zealand’s fashion. I hope to have a future in law or commerce.

60 seconds with Dame Pieter Stewart Today’s

HigHligHTs11am Twenty-seven Names12pm Choose Wool show featuring

Hailwood, Liz Mitchell, Sabatini, Carlson and Wynn Hamlyn

1pm Dmonic Intent/Syre2.30pm New Generation3.30pm Andrea Moore5.30pm NOM*d8pm Mercedes-Benz Presents

Kate Sylvester

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

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Daily FIND MORE EXCLUSIVE COVERAGE AT

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Tuesday august 25, 2015V i Va . c o . n z

NZ Fashion Week opens this morning with a show from Twenty-seven Names. Here, we exclusively bring you the series of polaroid portraits featuring the faces of the women walking in today’s show. These were taken by James K. lowe to mark the release of the brand’s new collection.

Top row: Ashleigh, Raina, Danielle, Cynthia, Ngahuia, Shannon. Second row: Imogen, Indiana, Gina, Emma, Zoe, Florence. Third row: Coco, Kizzie, Talia, Cynthia, B., Anna. Bottom row: Katie, Marnie, Talea, Ella, Derya, Imogen.

• Read more about Twenty-seven Names on page 4.

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Fashion week through the eyes of a 16-year-oldChit-chat with Rosie Kelway What are you looking forward to this week? I’m really encouraged by some of the new talent — there’s some very special new young designers that I hope manage to get enough behind them to be sustainable. People like Sean Kelly and Steve Hall; there are others, but particularly those two. I hope that they manage to get a good foothole in the industry.What does NZFW mean to you? A job I love.Hot tips for the week? If you are there all week, just make sure that you’ve got comfortable shoes because it is a lot of walking and running around, and it can be chilly so have some layers. Apart from that just really enjoy the atmosphere and soak it up.How are you feeling about this being your last fashion week as managing director? Nothing really. I am just going to be stepping back from running the event full time to give myself time to do other things, to bring other people forward, and not have to do these kind of interviews!

Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Tuesday August 25, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

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1. Simon Glaister Simon designed and built our beautiful set. He interpreted our brief better than we ever imagined.

2. Christine Leung Christine is my right hand man. She designs with me and sometimes I think she knows the collections better than me!

3. Kate Sylvester

4. Charlotte MortonOur lookbook model, she captures the look and spirit of the collection perfectly.

5. Wayne ConwayWayne is Creative Director of the shows. He creates the world for my muses to inhabit. I love working with him because he is a f***ing genius.

6. Naomi SmithNaomi styled the lookbook creating the template for the show. She brings an international perspective and an impartial eye to the collection.

7. Bailey MeredithBailey makes everything at Kate Sylvester happen. I love working with her because

Go Team!A stand out show demands a talented team behind the scenes, from design to styling, makeup to set design. Kate Sylvester introduces us to the key people behind tonight’s

Mercedes-Benz Presents Kate Sylvester show.

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In an upwardly mobile world, being hands free is an ideal way to navigate through the daily rigmarole of being busy. While fashion has often looked to school uniforms as points of inspiration, the backpack has continued to be one of those high school wardrobe staples that work whatever age you are, and despite hitting the 30s club a year ago, I still manage to find pleasure in the practicality that a backpack offers.

While traditional backpack labels from Jansport and Eastpak continue to inspire with updated options, you also can’t go past the myriad of luxe backpacks either from Mansur Gavriel’s clean cut leather options to Prada’s updated nylon backpacks.Tips for wearing a backpack:1. Juxtaposition. That old chestnut actually rings true here. Try a tailored suit and heels with a sleek backpack, because, why not?

2. Practicality. Whether it’s a throw around backpack or leather Stella McCartney knapsack, don’t be too precious about it. Try both straps slung over one shoulder for full effect because you’re cool and wearing a backpack.3. Edit. Be nice to your back, so pack light. Essentials are important so leave room for charger cables and most importantly, snacks.

The baGreporTWhy backpacks still rule, according to fashion editor Dan Ahwa

she can do anything, solve any crisis, rise to any challenge, all while dressed impeccably, the quintessential K.S. Girl.

8. Esther LeonardEsther is our workroom assistant and does anything and everything that anyone asks fast, efficiently and intelligently.

9. Sophie DonovanSophie is managing front of house for us — invite list, seating plan, and media and buyer liaison. She has the best smile in the business.

10. Kiekie StannersKiekie is a fantastic makeup director because she thinks about the individual faces as well as the conceptual brief.

11. Matt BennsMatt is our hair director. He gets the perfect Kate Sylvester balance between sophistication and nonchalance in the hair he creates for us.

12. Paris MitchellParis styled the collection with Naomi and cast our beautiful, strong gang of muses. She has the best laugh in the world.

V i Va . c o . n z / Fa S H i o n W E E K

The model and psychology student is marking 20 years in the business, having walked almost every NZ Fashion Week since it began.

Eaten by Jessica BeresfordIf, like us, you’ve Instagrammed a picture of The Nest from Mt Albert cafe L’Oeuf, and if, also like us, you’ve pondered how those crisp-yet-perfectly-gooey eggs came to rest on your plate, then here’s your answer.

Conceived by owners and brothers Ludovic and Jasper Maignot, The Nest is made up of four components — beetroot ketchup, salad, the nest, and two perfectly-cooked eggs — and is one of the most popular dishes on the menu, with around 50 selling each day of the weekend.

The house-made ketchup (which you’ll have to be careful not to spill on your brunch stripes) is comprised of beetroots, red wine, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, salt and raw sugar, and gives the core flavour to the dish.

The salad, if you’re lucky, comes scattered with colourful edible flowers, and is lightly dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, wholegrain mustard salt and a pinch of pepper.

Adding texture to the dish, the nest is made from Kataifi pastry brushed with warm butter and moulded to fit the shape of a muffin tin, which is then baked for half an hour at 180 degrees.

And the piece de resistance — the crumbed eggs — are soft-boiled for six minutes, then peeled and rolled in flour, egg mixture and a mix of panko breadcrumbs and crushed pumpkin seeds, before being deep fried until golden.

Although it would be impressive to be able to whip this up at home, we might just leave it to the experts. • L’Oeuf, 4A Owairaka Ave, Mt Albert.

When you look back on your career, what have been the highlights?I have been modelling since I was 14. The most memorable highlights for me have been the friendships I have made with the hard working, innovative and inspired people I’ve met, particularly in the NZ fashion industry.Your best fashion week moment?The Zambesi show at the St James theatre in 2005. We walked on the stage with a rock band playing behind us, and it seemed like there was infinite amounts of champagne. It reminded me of the 90s.What advice would you give to younger models with regards to modelling in NZ?I should ask them for advice, actually. Young models seem to be a lot more career-oriented and self-aware than I was at their age. My only piece of advice really would be, be on time to work. It’s respectful, and less stressful for everyone.Is there a lack of diversity in New Zealand fashion?I don’t think there is. I think NZ fashion has always been pretty innovative and inclusive.What are your thoughts on the representation of women in fashion today? How important is it for people creating imagery to empower women?I’m a big fan of imperfection, rawness and owning your age. I feel empowered by images where women look their age and natural. I particularly love Juergen Teller’s work, and images like the recent campaigns Daria Werbowy has done for Celine. I think Teller celebrates women getting older, and imperfection. That to me is interesting and empowering.What is your approach to your own personal style?I am quite a conservative dresser. I don’t like showing too much skin and I hardly ever wear high heels. For style inspiration I look to women with strong, classic, kind of masculine styles like Angelina Jolie and Malgosia Bela.What are you reading right now?I’m studying so I’m reading lots of academic articles on children’s literacy. I’m also reading a book about theology that focuses on the metaphysics of joy.Five things you couldn’t live without?Books, films, music, family, sleep.

Penny is represented by Red 11 Models.

focus on: Penny Pickard

creative commerce

The Secret behind The Nest at L’oeuf

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Wynn Hamlyn’s aesthetic is something that keeps you on your toes, his clothes feel contemporary, crafted and slightly mysterious. He made his NZFW debut yesterday, showing his A/W 16 collection as part of the Choose Wool group show. NZ made merino knitwear in the form of midi dresses, cropped sweaters, skirts and ribbed polo tops challenge any preconceptions you might have about wool.

Knitwear is just the beginning, however. His spring collection sees a clever use of textural velvets, silk satin and coloured suede leather.

Indulging my safer side, I’m wearing a white jacquard knit dress layered over a black ribbed polo. A comfortable and easy look that you can throw on and let the silhouette do all the work for you. Never one to forget the details, the dress has a red and purple birdseye backing – visible at the armhole and side splits. It’s touches like these that make a Wynn Hamlyn piece something that you want to keep forever.

DaNieLLe TrieS iT oNFashion student and Viva intern Danielle Clausen showcases the work of young designers to watch

@wynnhamlyn

Behind the shows, the parties and the peacocking, there’s the business of fashion. It’s the part of Fashion Week that often gets forgotten, but some of the most interesting people I’ve met at past NZFWs have been the international buyers, who are generally much more under the radar than the international media. They wield a unique kind of power too: the press can get behind a designer as much as we want, but hype means nothing if nobody buys anything. That power has shifted in recent years, with the rise of young designers bypassing having to chase stockists and

selling direct to the consumer from their own e-stores, but these buyers can still help designers get into new markets. Some of the buyers we’ll be watching this week?The Black WallRepresentatives from this Perth boutique came to Fashion Week last year, wearing Salasai straight off the runway. They already stock a wide range of New Zealand brands including Coop, Huffer, Karen Walker, Lonely Hearts, Ruby and Stolen Girlfriends Club. David JonesThe Australian giant announced its push

into the New Zealand market earlier this year, with the first department store set to open in Wellington next year. Spokesman and general manager Damien Burke, who has visited NZFW in the past, will attend shows this week with a team of DJs buyers across departments. Jo Shapland of ASOSThis Kiwi expat is coming home for fashion week in her role as country manager of ASOS Australia. In recent years the e-commerce giant has made a deliberate push into the Australasian market.

By Zoe Walker

Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Tuesday August 25, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

What does Helen Clark have in common with Beyonce, Amy Schumer and Emma Watson? They’re all

inspirations behind Twenty-seven Names’ autumn/winter ‘16 collection, showing at NZ Fashion Week this morning.

The label has often looked to the literary and art worlds to inform its collections, having been inspired by everything from 19th-century romantic novelists and Impressionist painters to early school uniforms. This year it’s all about their pop culture heroes.

“We thought about people who challenge us and give us a sense of our position in the world,” explains Anjali Stewart (pictured, right), one half of the Wellington label with Rachel Easting (left). “So much of our brand is about strong, confident women,” adds Rachel.

Among them: artist Tracey Emin, photographer and film-maker Cindy Sherman, and comedians Mindy Kaling and Amy Schumer. But the most influential is feminist artist Judy Chicago, best known for her controversial flower paintings, and her 1979 installation, The Dinner Party, a symbolic history of Western civilisation featuring famous women. The duo plan to recreate the scene for their show, Still Life, and captured 25 models on polaroids for a printed preview to be distributed to guests beforehand.

It’s not the first time the duo has publicly thanked their heroes. They named themselves after the 27 people who were instrumental in helping them launch the label in 2006. Over the years they’ve tried to communicate their ideas by thinking outside

the square; in 2011 they created memorable portraits of model Ngahuia Williams, wearing their designs against backdrops that mirrored the prints.

“The artistic element is really important to us,” says Rachel. “It’s not just about putting on an eight-minute runway show.”

It’s not just about business, either. The pair are best friends from primary school. Anjali went on to study fashion and Rachel, art. The pair say their bond has only strengthened with time, but setting up the label nine years ago was the biggest test. At the time they were living together, working at home and, so focused on the label, they barely left the house. “We work best when pushing each other to the absolute extreme,” says Anjali.

It wasn’t until a 2009 campaign in Sydney, featuring model Zippora Seven, that they realised they’d achieved their goal. Twenty-seven Names is now stocked throughout the country, as well as in Australia and the UK but they’ve never forgotten those “stressful” early years. On the wall in their Wellington studio hangs a design that encapsulates the mood of the brand: a two-toned, heart-flecked shirt, the first print they ever designed.

“Designing our own prints is key,” says Rachel.

The duo also pride themselves on using natural fibres. Still Life pivots around the development of natural linens and two wool blends, sourced from Italy by Richard Nieper of Fabric Merchants. “They’re beautiful for winter but also we love coats and blazers and jackets,” says Rachel. “Outerwear is a big thing for us, and we really enjoy making it.”

“Because we’re using new fabrics, the collection has turned out slightly differently,” adds Anjali. “It’s a new direction for us and it’s really exciting.”

WOMEN’S INTEREST

Twenty-seven Names’ new collection is inspired by women who challenge

By Rebecca Barry Hill

So freSh, So cLeaN SeLfie Wearing vintage Versace earrings

and M.A.C x Proenza Schouler lipstick (towel unknown). #iwokeuplikethis

Co-designer for Harman Grubisa, Jessica Grubisa also has a formidable sense of style. Each day this week, she’ll share her

favourite accessory selfies.

Selfies with Jess FOR THE ULTIMATE FASHION WEEK COVERAGE

ViVa.co.nz/FaSHionWEEK

LOOK OUT FOR:• Party photos from last night’s official opening event

• Expert front row reports from every show

• Exclusive access to Mercedes-Benz presents

Kate Sylvester

• All the off-the-runway action with daily street style

• Fashion Week through the eyes of photographer

James K. Lowe

• Video featuring the true Fashion Week insiders

• Photos from the front row and backstage

• Blogger Katherine Lowe’s coverage of the week’s

top models

• Each day’s key beauty looks and trends

• Front row diaries from those in the know

• Plus loads more!

Our expert fashion team will bring you the most comprehensive daily coverage of NZ Fashion Week 2015, with insider action from the front row, backstage and after parties. Every day we will bring you exclusive content in association with Mercedes-Benz, with Viva Daily and live coverage throughout the day at Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek. Make it your first — and only — online destination.

Instagram @NZHVivaTwitter @NZHVivaFacebook.com/NZHeraldVivaSnapchat @NZHViva

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Fashion’s most glamorous event begins this morning, opening with Twenty-seven Names — with Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek the only online destination you’ll need.

ogxhairnzAvailable from selected pharmacies, department stores & Countdown nationwide, or call 0508 734 466 for stockists. |

Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Tuesday August 25, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

sTocKisTs: gubb and Mackie (09) 302 1949, Kate sylvester (09) 307 3282, Karen Walker (09) 522 4286, Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com, Net-a-Porter netaporter.com, Penny sage pennysage.com, scotties (09) 366 1664, Twenty-seven Names (09) 360 6127.

The nzfw eDiT

ZOE WALKER, VIVA ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Postalco notebook, $25, from Gubb and Mackie.

True fashion week essentials are a phone charger and notebook (I’m old school and still take down notes at

shows), but my fashion must-have is a wardrobe of flat shoes. I might bring out a pair of solid heels for Kate

Sylvester’s evening show but, generally, it’s flats all day, every day. I appreciate those who go all out for fashion week, but when I’m running from show to show, then to the newsroom, I prefer to feel comfortable, and like

myself. My style tends to swing between sensible — black pants, black jacket, sneakers — to what fashion writer Alexander Fury has described as “frumpadelic

librarian chic” — epitomised by this green and red Prada look. Think awkward colours and retro details,

like the ceramic earrings handmade by Zelda Murray, a glove-printed shirt by Rochas, and a corduroy jacket by

one of my favourite brands right now, Trademark.

@iamzoewalker

Trademark jacket, $595,from Matchesfashion.com

Church’s lace-ups, $620, from Scotties.

Rochas silk shirt, about $1465, from Net-A-Porter.com

Twenty-seven Names denim skirt

$320.

Benah for Karen Walker leather bag $550.

Kate Sylvester glasses POA.

Zelda Murray earrings $470.

To the FloorVictoriana-inspired floor-sweeping dresses with prim necklines is the romantic new style. Think fashion-nun, like the prairie dresses seen at Veronique Branquinho for Resort 2016

— where every single one of the 15 black and white dresses featured delicate lace and subtle embroidery detail.

illustrating the Trends by Sean Cai

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Energy balls The perfect snack for on the run. Our favourites are the ones from Little Bird and also the frooze balls from Revive which come in packs so you can save them in your handbag for later. Delectable.

5 quick pick-me-ups during fashion Week

A new purchaseIf you’re the organised type, you’ll already have got the “I need it for Fashion Week” outfit splurges out of the way. If not, there’s nothing quite like a spur of the moment purchase pre or in-between shows — be it new shoes, socks, a skirt, or even a new lipstick to get you re-energised.

ChampagneWhen 5pm hits you’ll be heaving for a glass of sparkles. We will see you at the bar.

A protein shakeTrack one of these health busters down any which way you can. Even bring the powder from home if you must, or map out the Tank juice locations dotted around the city for a quick fix. It will become your life-blood when you need a healthy dose of get-up-and-go.

A blow waveIt’s remarkable what some hot air and a large round brush can do for your mood. We recommend the Dry and Tea signature blow wave, at $45.

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V i Va . c o . n z / Fa S H i o n W E E K

Managing editor amanda linnell. Associate editor Zoe Walker. Fashion editor dan ahwa. Beauty editor Janetta Mackay. Writers Rosie Kelway, Jessica Beresford, Rebecca Barry Hill. Photographer guy coombes. Designers sue Pat, Beth Walsh, lucy casley. Sub editor Fiona Ralph. Editorial assistant anna lee. Intern danielle clausen.

Contributors sean cai, Jessica grubisa, stacy gregg, Katherine lowe, James K. lowe, dan Roberts, david skipwith, Jade ingram, Nina Rejthar. Advertising Michelle Fowler.Contact us viva@nzherald.co.nz

Daily

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We invest in everyday work wear and casual weekend wear, but often neglect party wear. Liam’s latest spring collection, All Your Stars Are Out, focuses on what to wear when you want to have a really good time. It is inspired by the JD Salinger quote, “Keep me up till five only because all your stars are out, and for no other reason”. The range has pieces that may be considered a little risque, including a shoe-string-strapped, wide-legged jumpsuit, crop tops and a semi see-through dress. We love this fringed LBD with low V-cut back, sure to get almost any party started with a shimmy and a shake, uh-huh.• Liam ‘Vaudeville’ dress, $399, from ShopViva.co.nz

ready, Set, party!

BLUE CRUSHNicholas Ghesquiere’s unique brand of cool has well and truly made

an impact since his debut for Louis Vuitton in 2014, including the Dora bag he introduced for Fall 2014. The bag has been updated since, and this season is available in a bold and vibrant shade of blue. The Dora Ultra Soft MM hand bag in bleu royale is crafted from rich taurillon

leather and features soft, rounded lines that highlight the skin’s supple feel and distinctive grain.

• Louis Vuitton “Dora Ultra Soft” bag in taurillon leather $6700. Ph (09) 358 0422.

forward, or many wine-fuelled dinners at friends’ houses. I always head to The Golden Dawn, it feels like my local even though I don’t live here. I’m really in to natural wine and choose it whenever possible so it’s nice to find a bar that has an offering. I also have to have the cheese toast every time I’m back, it’s comforting, it’s my AKL ritual! It’s also fun for me as I always crash in to so many people I know there, it makes it much easier to see people when I have limited time, and I love the relaxed atmosphere.

Mea Culpa in Ponsonby still has some of the best cocktails in AKL, and I love the small bar atmosphere and cosy mood. Sometimes I just like to hang with a pal for an intimate drink without all the fluff, and it’s the perfect spot for one of those nights. The staff also know how to make quality classic cocktails — a surprising rarity these days.

Last time I was back a friend took me along to Ostro, and despite all the sauvignon blanc on their drinks menu, I had a great time there. It was a busy, warm night and everyone was happy, I really enjoyed the view and food! Food is very important when I’m travelling (despite what my above joy over cheese toast may suggest).

DriNk upNZ-born, Melbourne-based illustrator Kelly Thompson is in town for NZ Fashion Week. She shares a few of her favourite places for a drink when she’s back home.

It’s pretty hard to keep up with all the bars that are opening around Auckland, particularly when living in Australia. No doubt there are many I am missing out on and should sample. I’m not sure what the current cool spots are at all, but I don’t really mind that I don’t know, I have old faithfuls that I return to, occasionally I stumble on something new, and I’m happy to mix it up.

Usually when I’m in town it’s in and out, quick lunch catch ups and drinks in fast

By beauty editor Janetta Mackay Hair that looks effortless is still making waves. On and off the runway, relaxed styles rule, in keeping with the way women want their hair to look – natural but better.

There’s bound to be the odd spectacular styling exception during Fashion Week, and last night’s Exhibit show gave an insight into hair theatre, but expect top stylists to deliver designers amped up versions of looks you would happily wear.

“I’m a big fan of real hair, hair that has a touch of airiness and a little quirky,” says Stephen Marr’s Matt Benns.

He will be overseeing nine top shows. Expect to see more of the individual approach taken at the Marr Factory Kate Sylvester show this month (above), where

models had varied styles in line with what is happening internationally with makeup as well.

“It tells a beautiful story when we see slight differences,” says Benns. “We are working with her [the model’s] personality and hair’s natural texture ... we aren’t creating a stock standard “hairstyle” anymore, it feels too robotic!”

Other names to watch for in action this week include NZ Hairdresser of the Year Michael Beel up from Wellington, session stylist Richard Kavanagh over from Sydney and locals Brad Lepper and Sara Allsop among many more.

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For daily fashion week hair and beauty coverage, see Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek

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The all new Mercedes-AMG GT and Dree Hemingway with Lewis Hamilton and Nico Rosberg, captured by Collier Schorr. Each a champion of style with a passion for perfection. Mercedes-Benz, proud Elite partner of New Zealand Fashion Week.

www.mercedes-benz.co.nz/fashion

Champions of Fashion.

/MercedesBenzNZ @MercedesBenzNZ