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www.getlostmag.com ISSUE #32 // GST INCLUDED$7.95

SECRETS OF THESOUTH PACIFICThe ultimate places to stay

WADE DAVIS: An interview with the legendary explorer HENRY ROLLINS: The tough guy talks travelBEAUTIFUL PEOPLE: Where do the hotties call home?

CHILE | FRANCE | INDIA | MAURITIUS | SPAIN | VIETNAM

BORNEOKalimantan by boat

SOUTH KOREAThe inside story

THE KOKODAAre you up for it?

Halloween inSAN FRANCISCO

Sailing the endof the earth

PATAGONIA

ISSN 1449-3543

WIN A PEREGRINE ADVENTURE THROUGH MYANMAR SEE PAGE 10FOR DETAILS

GL32 Cover 09.indd 1 14/03/12 5:56 PM

#8 get lost ISSUE #31 get in the know South Africa is sitting on nearly 40% of the world’s platinum reserves.

Ever wondered where the most beautiful people in the world are?

FEATURES

Get your freak on for Halloween in the Castro, San Francisco.

Prepare yourself for one of the most notorious hikes in the world: the Kokoda Track.

Get back to basics on Tetepare Island – one of the last wild islands in the South Pacifi c.

Dive in the deep end of Delhi and Agra for a whirlwind tour of these Indian cities.

4024 30

Venture beyond the group tours and immerse yourself in Mekong Delta life.

VIETNAM

66 9082

Discover Borneo by boat. Put your feet up and witness Kalimantan the easy way.

Slip on your sailing shoes and see Patagonia from the decks of a yacht.

Journey into the heart of South Korea to get the real experience.

46 52 60

BEAUTIFULPEOPLE USA INDIA

INDONESIANBORNEO CHILE SOUTH KOREA

PAPUANEW GUINEA

SOLOMONISLANDS

S E C R E T S O F T H E

SOUTH PACIFICWe uncover the ultimate waterside accommodation across the South Pacifi c 96

BONUS FEATURE

GL31 Contents-3.indd 8 20/03/12 11:34 AM

#8 get lost ISSUE #31 get in the know South Africa is sitting on nearly 40% of the world’s platinum reserves.

Ever wondered where the most beautiful people in the world are?

FEATURES

Get your freak on for Halloween in the Castro, San Francisco.

Prepare yourself for one of the most notorious hikes in the world: the Kokoda Track.

Get back to basics on Tetepare Island – one of the last wild islands in the South Pacifi c.

Dive in the deep end of Delhi and Agra for a whirlwind tour of these Indian cities.

4024 30

Venture beyond the group tours and immerse yourself in Mekong Delta life.

VIETNAM

66 9082

Discover Borneo by boat. Put your feet up and witness Kalimantan the easy way.

Slip on your sailing shoes and see Patagonia from the decks of a yacht.

Journey into the heart of South Korea to get the real experience.

46 52 60

BEAUTIFULPEOPLE USA INDIA

INDONESIANBORNEO CHILE SOUTH KOREA

PAPUANEW GUINEA

SOLOMONISLANDS

S E C R E T S O F T H E

SOUTH PACIFICWe uncover the ultimate waterside accommodation across the South Pacifi c 96

BONUS FEATURE


ISSUE #31 get lost #9get in the know Behind Russia, Canada is the world’s second-largest country by total area.

14 News, Views & Events The globe uncovered18 Your Letters & Photos Send in and win20 Places to Stay The weird and wonderful22 Top Trips The best we can fi nd

26 Retro Travel Travel from yesteryear28 You Wish Get green with envy72 Photostory The world in images126 Food The hungry traveller

128 Photography Expert photo tips134 Our Shout The world’s best bars138 Responsible Travel Do the right thing140 Reviews Gadgets and other goodies

36 AFTER DARK Get to know London when the sun goes down.

78GET LOCALMontague Island – Australia’s Galápagos.

124HOLIDAY IDEASAn African adventure for under A$7,500.

132 TRAVEL JOB Meet legendary explorer and author Wade Davis.

136MUSIC An interview with hard-hitting traveller Henry Rollins.

144CONFESSIONS An Australian colony in Paraguay?

REGULARS

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66

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S

W E

40

52

60

46

82 90

36

78

WINLonely Planet

Book pack, 18

Canon camera, 19

Tamron lens, 130

144124

contents


#28 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know Almost 5% of Lanzarote’s population is from Colombia.

Chris Blade takes to the skies and goes paragliding above Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands.Photography by Chris Blade

Here I am, for tHe tHIrd tIme in three years, teetering on the brink of Lanzarote’s infamous

famara ridge waiting my turn to launch into the vast uncrowded sky. far below I spy the sea and the cafe we will meet at for a post-flight analysis and cerveza.

Lanzarote is a renowned winter flying destination. The Canary Islands, just off the coast of West Africa, offer the perfect opportunity to grab some winter sun and banish the European winter blues.

On the edge, my mind struggles to retain the information my instructors have pumped into me about wind directions, areas to avoid, thermals, air law, weather and of course landing.

sCary Canary

We wait patiently for the right launching conditions, my heart pounding audibly in my helmet, occasionally interrupted by bursts of excited conversation on my walkie-talkie from my friends soaring 500 feet above me.

The decision is made. The conditions are right and a gentle tug on the lines awakens the docile fabric canopy. It fills with air and rises powerfully above my head, eager to depart. A quick check that all’s okay, a step towards to the edge and I am snatched into the rising air. No more choice now, I’m off, on an elevator to the sky.

See www.airadventure.co.uk for paragliding at Lanzarote.

GL32 You Wish 02.indd 28 19/03/12 10:05 AM

#28 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know Almost 5% of Lanzarote’s population is from Colombia.

Chris Blade takes to the skies and goes paragliding above Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands.Photography by Chris Blade

Here I am, for tHe tHIrd tIme in three years, teetering on the brink of Lanzarote’s infamous

famara ridge waiting my turn to launch into the vast uncrowded sky. far below I spy the sea and the cafe we will meet at for a post-flight analysis and cerveza.

Lanzarote is a renowned winter flying destination. The Canary Islands, just off the coast of West Africa, offer the perfect opportunity to grab some winter sun and banish the European winter blues.

On the edge, my mind struggles to retain the information my instructors have pumped into me about wind directions, areas to avoid, thermals, air law, weather and of course landing.

sCary Canary

We wait patiently for the right launching conditions, my heart pounding audibly in my helmet, occasionally interrupted by bursts of excited conversation on my walkie-talkie from my friends soaring 500 feet above me.

The decision is made. The conditions are right and a gentle tug on the lines awakens the docile fabric canopy. It fills with air and rises powerfully above my head, eager to depart. A quick check that all’s okay, a step towards to the edge and I am snatched into the rising air. No more choice now, I’m off, on an elevator to the sky.

See www.airadventure.co.uk for paragliding at Lanzarote.


ISSUE #32 get lost #29

you wish | spain

get in the know The emblem of Lanzarote is a demon.


#30 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know San Francisco powers its municipal bus and truck fleet on biodiesel that is made from waste grease collected from local restaurants.

usa

Halloween in the Castro crush, blazing bright as ever.

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#30 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know San Francisco powers its municipal bus and truck fleet on biodiesel that is made from waste grease collected from local restaurants.

usa

Halloween in the Castro crush, blazing bright as ever.


ISSUE #32 get lost #31get in the know San Francisco outlawed burials in 1901. The Presidio and Mission districts have the city’s only remaining cemeteries.

andrew Lewis celebrates San Francisco’s oldest, wildest Halloween tradition in the Castro.

Photography by Lucia griggi


#36 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know The first Paralympics Games, held in London in 1948, involved injured World War II soldiers.

London local Nick Boulos gives us the lowdown on a top night out in the Olympic city.

GL32 London After Dark 02.indd 36 19/03/12 12:23 PM

#36 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know The first Paralympics Games, held in London in 1948, involved injured World War II soldiers.

London local Nick Boulos gives us the lowdown on a top night out in the Olympic city.


ISSUE #32 get lost #37get in the know It’s been suggested that the London Olympics 2012 logo resembles the cartoon character Lisa Simpson performing fellatio.

united kingdom

With more thaN 7,000 puBs in the great British capital, choosing where to head to

once the sun has gone down and the olympians get their rest can be a tough task. But a little local insight always helps uncover the hidden locales. Whether you want a chic hangout or a good ol’ fashioned boozer, London is the place to be.

5.00pm Get off to a flying start in one of the oldest pubs in London, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. This place has been welcoming an illustrious clientele since 1538. Over the years it’s been the drinking den of choice for the likes of authors Charles Dickens, Oliver Goldsmith, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and, thanks to its Fleet Street location, a whole generation of newspaper hacks.

Step back in time in this historic pub (rebuilt in 1667 after the Great Fire) with its network of darkened rooms and working fireplaces, old oak tables, vaulted cellars and creaking floorboards. The beer’s pretty good, too. Ye olde Cheshire Cheese145 Fleet street

6.00pm Tucked between two fairly ordinary cafes near Shoreditch is an innocuous doorway, the kind you’d walk past without giving it a second glance. But dive inside and your curiosity will be rewarded.

Deep underground sits Nightjar, a prohibition-style bar that’s a throwback

to the glamorous 1920s. The live band plays swing and jazz. Couples sit at the candlelit wooden tables as exotic cocktails, exquisitely decorated and boasting the finest ingredients, are ferried across the intimate bar.

Choosing between the 36 ‘rare, revived and original’ tipples is not easy. But the secret cocktail – a refreshing blend of Tanqueray gin, Calvados Père Magloire, fresh lemon and homemade grenadine (served on the side in an eggshell no less) – is a popular favourite.

And why not enjoy a pre-dinner snack? The tapas-style pan-fried brochettes of cecina, mozzarella and tomato are especially good. Nightjar129 City roadwww.barnightjar.com

7.00pm Blessed with one of the most iconic skylines in the world, London demands to be seen from a lofty vantage point.

As the city starts to twinkle, head to Vertigo 42, located more than 40 storeys above the busy streets atop the gleaming Tower 42 building. Overlooking St Paul’s Cathedral, the Gherkin and beyond, this trendy lounge setting serves 39 types of champagne, while the new dedicated Bellini menu includes fruity and seasonal twists like passionfruit and plum. More importantly, the floor-to-ceiling windows ensure great views for all. Vertigo 42tower 42, 25 old Broad streetwww.vertigo42.co.uk

8.00pm Sprint to the hottest ticket in town: Dinner, the new restaurant by celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal – the man behind egg-and-bacon ice cream and snail porridge.

Located in the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in up-market Knightsbridge, the restaurant’s dining room – ivory walls decorated with porcelain – is as sophisticated as the food, which has

It’s hard to beat a British boozer for cosiness.

Nightjar in full swing.


#40 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know To help reduce air pollution, in 2004 the Delhi government made it mandatory for all city buses and auto rickshaws to run on compressed natural gas.

india

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#40 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know To help reduce air pollution, in 2004 the Delhi government made it mandatory for all city buses and auto rickshaws to run on compressed natural gas.

india

GL32 India-3.indd 40 19/03/12 3:20 PM


IndIa Is, lIke, full of everythIng!” yells Badam, grabbing my arm and yanking me off the road before a rickshaw runs over my foot. I hurry after him, down an alley,

through a cloud of dust, over a puddle of muck. old delhi screams at me from every direction – bikes, scooters, taxis, tuk-tuks, cars, cows and people pulling carts. “hello, hello!” “you want?” “money please!” fumes, heat and dirt clog my pores. spaghetti-like power lines block my path.

I’ve hit Delhi; or rather, Delhi has hit me. Now I get why thousands descend on the city each year looking for some sort of spiritual enlightenment, then flee, feeling anything but enlightened. I feel a tad relieved to be spending three days in two of India’s craziest cities, Delhi and Agra, with Badam, a seasoned local and guide for some urban-adventure city tours that I’ve joined. But these tours, unlike other yawn-inducing day trips, are designed to give travellers an insider’s look at each place, and they won’t wrap you up in cottonwool while doing so. I start to prep myself mentally for the challenge that lies ahead. Patience. Check. Perseverance. Check. A sense of humour, an open mind. Check and check.

Old Delhi hits me headfirst yet again – cars, scooters, bikes, beeping and all. I follow Badam as he weaves in and out of back alleys and bizarre bazaars dedicated to different themes: Dariba Kalan for jewellery, Kinari Bazar for bridal paraphernalia. Women in red and aqua saris whiz past on the back of motorbikes; a young boy follows us around spoon-feeding his bare-bottomed baby brother.

I finally catch a long-overdue breath at the top of a minaret of the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque, overlooking Chandni Chowk, the area’s oldest market. Looking out toward the street procession of pigeons and paan-chewing customers, my

kelly Irving surrenders to the deluge of Delhi and Agra on a whirlwind trip to India.Photography by kelly Irving and simon Bracken

get in the know Jainism is an Indian religion that preaches vegetarianism and non-violence to all living things.

GL32 India-3.indd 41 19/03/12 3:20 PM

#46 get lost ISSUE #32 The mangosteen is often called the ‘queen of fruits’ because Queen Victoria supposedly offered £100 to anyone who could bring her a perfectly ripe one.

Happy times on the Amandit River.

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#46 get lost ISSUE #32 The mangosteen is often called the ‘queen of fruits’ because Queen Victoria supposedly offered £100 to anyone who could bring her a perfectly ripe one.

Happy times on the Amandit River.

GL32 Borneo 05.indd 46 20/03/12 10:48 AM

ISSUE #32 get lost #47get in the know Kalimantan makes up about 73% of Borneo by area.

indonesia

‘

Tom Perry discovers the best way to see Indonesian Borneo is by taking the slow boat.Photography by Tom Perry

LihaT Lah orang sePerTi melihat buah manggis’ (meaning: ‘look at people like you look at

the mangosteen’) is the indonesian equivalent of ‘don’t judge a book by its cover’. The expression comes from the fact that the mangosteen, a small awkward-looking tropical fruit with flesh that resembles garlic and skin that stains like beetroot, is actually gloriously sweet.

As I tuck into my tenth mangosteen (I’d developed a mild obsession for them over the last 10 days) on my final morning in Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo, I watch the organised chaos of the Banjarmasin floating markets. Hundreds of women in canoes chat, bargain, jostle and exchange huge piles of fruit and vegetables in the middle of the Barito River. I make a note in my travel journal that the mangosteen expression could just as well reflect my time in Kalimantan as a whole. Having arrived intent on coming face-to-face with orangutans, after 10 days in this unspoilt part of Indonesia I’d discovered there was far more to Kalimantan than just its red-haired primate inhabitants. By taking

life in at the slow pace of a riverboat, I had seen beyond the trees, the water and the wildlife, and instead experienced the complexity of the lives that revolve around them.

Travelling by boat is, without doubt, the best way to see this part of the world. The large, 10-metre-long wooden boats (known locally as klotoks) offer the chance to plonk your deckchair or mattress on the

deck, kick back and just soak up life on the river. And when you’re keen to explore deeper into the jungle, you hop aboard one of the thousands of smaller alkons – each less than half a metre wide and

sitting just centimetres out of the water – and move deftly through the countless creeks, swamps and low-hanging riverside trees that are spread across thousands of kilometres of waterways.

Ten days earlier. My first introduction to river life in Kalimantan was unexpectedly luxurious. On arrival in Palangkaraya, an hour’s flight from Jakarta, my travelling partner and I head to the dock to board our first boat, a two-storey, 20-metre-long ‘super klotok’ known as the Rahai’i Pangun. It’s been rebuilt from the shell of a cargo boat and now includes deluxe double cabins and a huge deck, and has a style that melds into the tough environment around it. It’s clear that a lot of thought has gone into its design.

“Bobo stands up in response, staring down his rival before grabbing a piece of bamboo and breaking it in a show of strength. orangutans are seriously powerful”

Kalimantan’s orangutans.

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get in the know Chile is 4,300 kilometres long but on average only 175 kilometres wide.

chile

#52 get lost ISSUE #32

GL32 Chile 03.indd 52 20/03/12 2:24 PM

get in the know Chile is 4,300 kilometres long but on average only 175 kilometres wide.

chile

#52 get lost ISSUE #32

GL32 Chile 03.indd 52 20/03/12 2:24 PM

get in the know Chile has about 78,000 kilometres of coastline, almost twice as much as Australia.

Cam Cope ventures to the south of South America and explores Chile’s magnificent fjords by boat. Photography by Cam Cope


A stern view of Chile’s fjords.

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The Great Unification Buddha looks out over Seoraksan and the Taebaek mountain range from his seat near Sinheungsa, the oldest Zen temple in the world.

#60 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know Taekwondo is South Korea’s national sport. Most Koreans have at least some formal training, but few will try and kick you in public.

south korea

Flash Parker heads to the cultural core of South Korea’s oldest empire.Photography by Flash Parker

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The Great Unification Buddha looks out over Seoraksan and the Taebaek mountain range from his seat near Sinheungsa, the oldest Zen temple in the world.

#60 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know Taekwondo is South Korea’s national sport. Most Koreans have at least some formal training, but few will try and kick you in public.

south korea

Flash Parker heads to the cultural core of South Korea’s oldest empire.Photography by Flash Parker


ISSUE #32 get lost #61get in the know In 1962 Seokguram Grotto was designated the 24th national treasure of South Korea.


#82 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know The Kokoda Track is 96 kilometres long.

papua new guinea

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#82 get lost ISSUE #32 get in the know The Kokoda Track is 96 kilometres long.

papua new guinea

GL32 Kokoda-4.indd 82 22/03/12 12:42 PM

get in the know The highest point on the Kokoda Track is 2,190 metres above sea level.

Luke Wright takes on the legendary Kokoda Track.Photography by Luke Wright


GL32 Kokoda-4.indd 83 19/03/12 12:54 PM

get in the know gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text#96 get lost ISSUE #32

We’ve searched the South Pacifi c for the most remote, rustic, boutique and beautiful independent resorts and bungalows inthe region. It was a tough job, but it had to be done. If you prefer to avoid the crowds and the generic tourist traps, then you’re infor a treat. It’s our humble opinion that all the places to stay found on the following pages typify what authentic travel is all about.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA | SOLOMON ISLANDS | VANUATU | TONGA |BEST OF THE REST

South Pacific Stays cover page 3.indd 96 20/03/12 5:02 PM

get in the know gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text#96 get lost ISSUE #32

We’ve searched the South Pacifi c for the most remote, rustic, boutique and beautiful independent resorts and bungalows inthe region. It was a tough job, but it had to be done. If you prefer to avoid the crowds and the generic tourist traps, then you’re infor a treat. It’s our humble opinion that all the places to stay found on the following pages typify what authentic travel is all about.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA | SOLOMON ISLANDS | VANUATU | TONGA |BEST OF THE REST


get in the know gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text gitk text ISSUE #32 get lost #97

SOLOMON ISLANDS

TONGA

NIUE

COOK ISLANDS

FRENCH POLYNESIA

SAMOA

FIJI

New Zealand

Australia

VANUATU

PAPUA NEW GUINEA


Travelling by road, by air and on water, you will see fi rsthand why Myanmar (also known as Burma) is a fabled land. Discover ancient temples, explore winding rivers, enjoy lovely hospitality and unwind on deserted beaches. This fantastic trip for two is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

This fantastic prize is madepossible by Peregrine Adventureswww.peregrineadventures.com

All fl ights are courtesy of Vietnam Airlineswww.vietnamairlines.com

GL32 Subscription DPS 2 TEMP FLAT.indd 10 26/03/12 2:57 PM

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