7/25/2019 Garment Production Starts With the Cutting Process

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Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process,fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns of dierentgarment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In massproduction multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and largenumber of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack iscalled as lay. The cutting process includes number of subprocessesand !ow of the processes is as following. "ach process is brie!ye#plained in the following.

1. Pattern / Marker:$ccording to the design and %t, patterns of

dierent garment parts are made on the pattern paper and cut into

pattern pieces. &or manual marker these pattern pieces are used for

marker making. 'n the other hand in $ system patterns are madein computer. *ater using a plotter markers are made on sheet. In the

second case cutting department receive ready marker.

2. Cut ratio receiving:+rior to cutting, cutting department get a

ob sheet from planning department or merchandiser or production

manager that includes total -uantity of garment pieces to be cut,

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sies ratio of the garments and colourwise sie break up. $ccording

to the sie and colour ratio cutting team prepare one marker or

multiple markers. /arker length and number of lay to be cut are

planned in this stage.

3. Fabric receiving:&abric re-uirement for an order is calculated

according to the average consumption of the fabric from the marker.

In case of multiple colour order, colour wise re-uirement is made.

&abric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric

re-uirement (generally re-uisition slip is used).

4. Fabric relaxation:This process is optional. 0pecially used for

knits fabric. uring rolling of fabric it get stretched. 0o it is essentialto bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink

after making. To rela# the fabric roll or th1n is opened and spread

and kept for about 23 hours.

5. Spreading Fabric !a"ering#:In this stage fabric sheet is

layered one above another maintaining prede%ned maker length

and correct ply tension. &abric is layered up to a certain height to

avoid cutting -uality problem. 0preading is done by manual layering

or automatic layering machine can be used. uring layering of thefabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.

$. Marker Making:$fter layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns

(or ready markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of

the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each

pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called as marker

making. In a marker all garment components are placed.

%. Cutting:*ay is cut following the marked lines on the top of thelay. utting is done using straight knife or other cutting means. In

cutting process garment component are separated. 'n the basis of

pattern shape dierent cutting method4 machine are selected.

&. 'u(bering:0eparated garment components are numbered to

ensure that in stitching all components from same layer are stitched

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together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment.

5etween the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be

passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There

is ma#imum chance of mi#ing of the components. If there is layer

number in each component then at the time of stitching only correctcomponents will be stitched together.

). Sorting:$ccording to production system (/ake through,

progressive bundle or one piece !ow system) cut components are

sorted. In sorting all component of a garment placed together. 0ie

wise sorting and in case multiple colours are cut in a single lay,

colour wise sorting will be re-uired.

1*. +undling:$s per the production line re-uirement a certainnumber of pieces with all component are tied together. This process

is known as bundling. "ach bundle is marked with bundle number,

style name, sie number and -uantity of pieces in that bundle. $t

this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for stitching.