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Weaves

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A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of twosets of threads, namely warp & weft threads. These

threads are interlaced with one another according tothe type of weaves or design.

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Classification of woven structures:

Woven structures are classified into the following categories:1. Simple structures

In case of simple structures, there is only one series of warp andweft. Warp and weft interlace with one another perpendicularly.2. Compound structuresIn case of compound structures, there may be more than one seriesof threads, of which one set forms the body or ground and the otherforms the figuring or ornamentation. Unlike the simple structures, theneighbouring threads need not be parallel to one another.

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Weave Repeat

The repeat of a weave is a quantitative expression of any givenweave.

It indicates the minimum number of warp and weft threads for agiven weave.

It comprises of warp and weft repeat. The size of the repeat may be even or uneven depending upon

the nature of the weave. In elementary weaves such as plain, twill, satin etc. the repeat

size is normally even.

However in weaves such as honeycomb, huckaback the repeatsize may be even or uneven. For any weave the repeat size is the sum of the warp and weft

floats. Thus in case of 2/1 twill the repeat size is 3x3. It is common practice to denote one repeat of a weave on design

paper.

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Methods of weave representation:

A weave is the interlacingpattern of the warp and weft.Two kinds of interlacing are

possible: Warp overlap in which

warp is above weft. Weft overlap in which weft

is above warp.

Warp up

Warp Down

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Basic Elements of a woven

design.

The three basic elements in a woven

design are: Design Draft or drawing plan Peg or lifting plan

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Design

The design indicates the interlacement of warp andweft threads in the repeat of the design.

It is made up of a number of squares, whichconstitute the repeat size of a design.

The vertical direction of the squares indicate theends and the horizontal direction indicates the picks.

A blank in a square indicates that a warp goes belowthe corresponding weft and X mark in the squareindicates that the warp floats above the weft.

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Draft or Drawing Plan

The draft or drawing plan indicates themanner of drawing the ends through

the heald eyes and it also denotes thenumber of heald shaft required for agiven weave repeat.

The choice of the type of drafting plandepends upon the type of fabric woven.

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Peg Plan or Lifting Plan

The peg or lifting plan provides useful information tothe weaver.

It denotes the order of lifting of heald shafts. In a pegplan the vertical spaces indicate the heald shafts andthe horizontal spaces indicate the picks.

The peg plan depends upon the drafting plan.

In the case of a straight draft, the peg plan will be thesame as the design.

Hence no peg plan is necessary in the case of a

straight draft.

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1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

Design Peg Plan

Drafting Plan

The design, draft and peg plan are illustrated with the aid of an example shownbelow:

picks

ends

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Types of drafts plans

The various drafts are classified as follows:1. Straight2. Pointed3. Skip & Sateen4. Broken5. Divided6. Grouped7. Curved8. Combination

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Straight Draft

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Pointed Draft

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Plain Weave Is also known as Calico or tabby weave. It is simplest of all the weaves having a repeat size

of 2.

The range of application of this weave is wide.

Features:1. It has the maximum number of binding points.1. The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up & 1

down.1. The thread density is limited.1. Cloth thickness & mass per unit area are limited.1. It produces a relatively stronger fabric.

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Derivatives of plain

1.Warp Rib2.Weft Rib3.Matt

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Twill Weave

The main feature of these weaves that distinguishfrom other types is the presence of pronounceddiagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

Wide range of application.1. They form diagonal lines from one selvedge toanother.

2. More ends per unit area and picks per unit area thanplain cloth.

3. Less binding points than plain cloth.4. Better cover than plain weave.5. More cloth thickness & mass per unit area.

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TEXTURE:A term describing thesurface effect of a fabric, such as dull,

lustrous, wooly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse,open, or closely woven; the structuralquality of a fabric.

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