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The ingredient under discussion is called pearl essence. (Some sources give this as "pearlescence.") It's

the silvery stuff found in fish scales that's used in some lipsticks, nail polishes, ceramic glazes, etc., to

make them shimmery. Pearl essence is obtained primarily from herring and is one of many by-products

of large-scale commercial fish processing. Synthetic versions have been developed, but to what extent

they've supplanted the natural variety I hesitate to say. The cosmetics companies were not forthcoming

and I got contrary stories from different industry observers. Fishermen still collect the stuff, though, and

one presumes it's being put to good use.

how pearl essence is harvested: "The purse seine draws the herring up from the bottom and into an

ever-decreasing circle, where the pumper [boat] pumps the fish out, and into the hold of the buyer's

boat. In the meantime, due to thrashing in the seine and going through the pumper, nearly all of the

herring scales are removed and diverted into bags on the pumper's deck." This is perhaps not the

world's kindest process. I also learned that global herring production is threatened by overfishing,

raising the specter of a world full of nonshimmering lips.

Pearl essence is just one of a long list of unsuspected animal ingredients in cosmetics. If you think fish

scales in lipstick is gross, get a load of cerebrosides, used in skin-care products to create a smoother skin

surface, increase moisture retention, heighten "luminosity," etc. According to the Food and Drug

Administration, "the raw material for cerebrosides in cosmetics comes from cattle, oxen, or swine brain

cells or other nervous-system tissues."

http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2544/does-lipstick-contain-fish-scales

In order to give some lipsticks (as well as nail polish, some paints and some ceramics) a nice "shimmery"

effect an ingredient called pearl essence (also known as "pearlesence") is added to them. Pearl essenceis the silvery stuff found in fish scales and is harvested primarily as a by-product of Herring fisheries.

http://www.scienceworld.ca/we-can-explain/most-lipstick-contains-fish-scales

Lipstick DOES contain fish scales.

Fish scales are sometimes added to cosmetics such as lipstick and nail polish to give it the same

shimmering effect that they give the fish. Of course, you won't find the ingredient fish scales' on your

cosmetic labels. Not unlike the fancy term caviar' that has been given to fish eggs, fish scales that are

ground into a shimmery additive for cosmetics are called pearl essence' or pearlesence'.

What Is Pearl Essence?

Pearl essence, also called pearlesence, is the silvery substance found in the scales of shimmering fish

such as the herring. The collection of pearl essence is a lucrative byproduct of the herring fisheries

industry as it is sought after for use in cosmetics, paint, ceramics, nail polish, and jewelry.
http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2544/does-lipstick-contain-fish-scaleshttp://www.scienceworld.ca/we-can-explain/most-lipstick-contains-fish-scaleshttp://www.scienceworld.ca/we-can-explain/most-lipstick-contains-fish-scaleshttp://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2544/does-lipstick-contain-fish-scales


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http://www.sophisticatededge.com/does-lipstick-contain-fish-scales.html

Preparation of pearl essence

Pearl essence, or rather the essence of the fish scales, obtained from different scales silvery-

white fish. Obtaining such essences is reduced to the separation of scales thin silver surface. For

preparation of pearl essences are best used scales ablet, but in its absence scales inconnu.

Naturally, fresh scales produced a brilliant essence the highest quality, however, in the

production, especially those away from the big rivers, getting fresh scales is quite impossible. At

the beginning of the birth of this production used the scales of only some varieties of fish, such

as ablet, sturgeon, white salmon, roach, sabrefish, herring, etc.

Further observations showed that the scales can be used any fish with shiny, iridescent glitter

scales. In addition, we must bear in mind that in order to conserve the scales in a certain amount

of hexamine, which sometimes has a detrimental effect on the pearl essence, therefore, should be

taken without scales or the content of hexamine, or with the smallest of its content. To eliminate

the harmful influence hexamine scales washed with water, to which is added a small quantity of

hydrochloric acid, after which the scales washed with clean water. The silver stuff scales

represents an accumulation of small crystals with silver glitter. The crystals are very complex

protein composition, they dissolve in ammonia and acetic acid.

Preparation of pearl essence boils down to the allocation of

these crystals as possible in a pure form.

Usually, pearl essence is prepared on the water. If the essence

is used in a mixture with gelatin, the water goes directly to the

essence of the case. If the stalemate is used for making

celluloid varnish, the essence to be liberated from the water. Do this as follows:

After a long settling merge with the silvery sludge water and add alcohol. Then mix and give

back to defend, then poured into a sludge alcohol. Repeating this procedure several times, you

can completely remove the water. Here are some recipes pearl essences.
http://www.sophisticatededge.com/does-lipstick-contain-fish-scales.htmlhttp://www.sophisticatededge.com/does-lipstick-contain-fish-scales.html


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Serebristoblestyaschih fish scales, such as: bleak, inconnu, roach, sturgeon, and others, placed

in a rotating barrel and poured a solution of salicylic acid. The solution of salicylic acid obtained

by dissolving 3 liters of salicylic acid per 1 liter of water. Barrel is rotated, with silver cover is

rubbed scales. After some time of quiet advocacy provide fluid to drain into a large jug, and the

remaining mass of scaly, and treated with salicylic pounded with water, as described above. The

treatment is salicylic water is repeated until the merge until the water stops to contain a silvery

substance. Next, collect all liquids together in a jug and allow to settle a silvery mass.

The pooled water is drained and poured into clean, with the addition of a small amount of

salicylic water. The mixture is shaken, give back to settle the mass, merge-settled water and thus

for a thorough cleaning silver masses repeat this operation every 12.10. After the merge the latest

washing water held firm to the mass gain 40 alcohol (vodka). Essence remain in bottles with

ground stoppers. In order to protect the prepared thus pearl essence of fish scales from decay,

you can add to it a very small amount (a drop or two) of ammonia. However, it should be borne

in mind that ammonia impairs shine essences and therefore, if you can keep the essence, in the

filled top to bottom clean and dry bottles with well-stoppered flask in a dry cool place, it is better

to dispense with the use of ammonia.

Removed from the fish (bleak, white salmon, sturgeon), the scales, carefully watching the

intactness easily removable layer of silver flakes. Then the scales are placed in large

earthenware, porcelain, brick or terracotta dishes, pour clean water and give the scales melted

within an hour, and treated her hands gently, so how much impossible to rub it. This treatment is

designed to free the scales from the mud and animal mucus. Then water is poured and poured

into a clean, repeating this operation for as long as the scales will not be completely washed free

of dirt. Then begin to ottirke silver layer of flakes.

Ottirka produced in the same bowl with a beater hardwood (oak, birch, etc.). After 15 minutes

ottirki scales filtered through a cloth or sieve, and the fabric is only scales; silver uholit substance

with water substituted in the bottom of the bucket. Remaining on the fabric is washed with water

scale for removal of adhering particles of silver substance. Usually it is sufficient to double the

repetition of this work to completely separate the silvery substance of scales.


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Ottsezhennym waters containing a silvery substance that gives settle, and after a 24-hour settling

sediment is placed in a bottle, fill with clean water, shaken, give weight to settle, pour the water

and, finally, add distilled water. To protect it from rotting, as well as in the first case, added a

few drops of ammonia. If the storage defending liquid becomes turbid, it is necessary to merge

and pour a new distilled water. If this condition is satisfied cooked such a way essence, you can

save for a few months, keeping in mind the above about the harmful effects of excess ammonia

to shine essences.

In another method, invented in Paris, pearl essence are using as a raw material not only to fish

scales, but also the fish's skin and the fish bladder. To separate the silver from the main

substance of organic material, raw material is treated at a temperature of 50 neutral aqueoussoap solution. For the same purpose instead of soap can be used saponins, enzymes, pancreatin,

diastase, and others. Pearl silvery substance is separated by repeated washing.

Purification crude pearl essences

From 4 to 10 liters of crude essences mixed with 30% saponin, added 10 liters of distilled water,

heated at 20-60 in a water bath and mix thoroughly. Next, add more water and leave defended.

After 2-4 hours the remainder not containing crystals, is removed and the liquid containing

suspended in pure crystals, left to defend. After washing with pearl essence has a great line, and

purity. Instead of saponin can take 100-200 g Sound of soap.

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