from textile chemistry to fashion

22nd IFATCC INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS Italy, Stresa, May 5-7, 2010

FROM TEXTILE CHEMISTRY TO FASHION: MULTIFUNCTIONALITY, SUSTAINABILITY,

COMPETITIVITY

Resins: what are they?

Presented by   Massimiliano Mignanelli

Summary 1. Bozzetto

  R&D

2. Resins   Plastic and Resin   Glyoxalic   Acrylic   Polyurethane

3. Questions and Answers

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Resins

The meaning of this term depends on the geographical area.

The Americans address �reactants� to the glyoxalic derivatives, where in Europe is preferred the use of �resins�.

�Resins� is also preferred when referred to all the other compounds.


Please let me introduce the:

HO OH

N N

O

OH HO

DMDHEU


Glyoxalic resin preparation

HO OH

N N

O

OH HO

H2N NH2

O

H H

O

OO


DMDHEU

HO OH

N N

O

OH HO

 Reaction with cellulosic substrates (releases H2O)

 Reaction catalyzed by Lewis acids

  Residual formaldehyde:   From synthesis   During curing

HO Cell

  Strength loss


Modified DMDHEU

O

HO OH

N N

O

HO HR

 To reduce the quantity of free HCHO

 �R� could be any carbon chain, linear or branched

 Only two OH groups left to react

HO

 Reduction of the free HCHO on the product as it is

 Higher molecular weight

 �Soft hand�


Scavengers

 Another technique widely employed to reduce the free HCHO is the use of scavengers

 This type of molecules readily react with the free HCHO

 The scavenger MUST not influence the substrate yellowing

 Usually they have 1 Nitrogen available for the reaction

 The scavenger MUST not influence the resin activity

 The scavenger MUST not develop any smell during curing


Scavengers  Examples of typically used scavengers

  Urea H2N NH2

O

HN NH

O

Ethyleneurea   Dicyandiamide

N

H2N NH2

N

Hydantoin

HN

NH

O

O

  5,5-Dimethylhydantoin

HN

NH

O

O  3-Pyrroline

HN

Pyrrole

HN

Imidazole

HN

N

Ronald S. Perry, Chia-Hsiang Tsou, Choon See Lee, A search for potential formaldehyde acceptors, Textile Chemist Colorist, Vol.12 , No. 12, (1980), p. 311.

The Procter & Gamble Company, US Patent, 29th August 2008, Benefit compositions and formaldehyde scavengers for same.


DMDHEU Performances

Cross-linking agent

Permanent results

Shiny look

Good touch

Catalyzed

Careful application

Acidic catalyst

Strength loss

Possibility of yellowing effects

Free formaldehyde on the substrate



More samples can be found in our stand

Acrylic Resins

  Acrylic resins are a group of related thermoplastic or thermosetting plastic substances derived from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or other related compounds.

  Polymethyl acrylate is an acrylic resin used in an emulsed form for lacquer, textile finishes, adhesives and, mixed with clay, to gloss paper.

  Another acrylic resin is polymethyl methacrylate which is used to make hard plastics with various light transmitting properties.


Acrylic Resin

Acrylic acid OH

O

CH2

NH2

O

CH2

Acrylamide

O

O

CH2

CH3

Methyl methacrylate

OH

O

CH2

CH3

Methacrylic acid


Acrylic Resin


  The polymerization of Methyl Methacrylate results in a transparent thermoplastic material commercially known as Plexiglass, Perspex…

  The polymerization of Acrylic acid (at different molecular weights) can be used as a size for fibers, dispersing agent in textile processes.

  The polymerization of Acrylamide and Acrylic acid results in a anti–migrating agent for polyester dyeing.

  The polymerization of a balanced mix of monomers and a careful choice of polymerization degree is widely applied as finishing resin for textile.

  From a mix of acrylates also fibers are formed.

Acrylic Resin

Permanent results

Wide range of effects

Medium to high scrapeability (on denim)

High compatibility with DMDHEU

Safe application


Film formation on padding cylinders

Polyurethane Resin


  The characteristic link is the �urethane� –CO–NH–

  The polyurethane is the result of a polymerization between a unit containing at least two isocyanate functional groups and a unit containing at least two hydroxyl functional groups

  The process is based on a step growth polymerization

  Depending on the types of monomer used and the final molecular weight the application goes from low density foams to very high density rubbery materials

OH HO CH2 CH2

H

O C N C

H

O C N

Polyurethane Resin

Polyurethane


O O C

O

C

H

N C

H

H O

C

H

N

n

H

C

H

H H

  The properties of the polyurethane are determined mainly by the choice of the polyol.

Polyurethanes Characteristics


Randall, David; Lee, Steve (2002). The Polyurethanes Book. New York: Wiley. ISBN 0-470 -85041-8

  However the diisocyanate plays his part and must be carefully chosen, since it also influences:

  The mechanical properties

  The exposure to light stability

OH HO CH2 CH2

O C N C

H

H

O C N


 Softer, elastic and more flexible polyurethanes result when linear difunctional polyethylene glycol segments are used to create the urethane links.

 This strategy is used to make �Spandex� elastomeric fibers and soft rubber parts, as well as foam rubber.

 More rigid products result if polyfunctional polyols are used, as these create a three-dimensional cross-linked structure which, again, can be in the form of a low-density foam.

Polyurethanes Characteristics

Randall, David; Lee, Steve (2002). The Polyurethanes Book. New York: Wiley. ISBN 0-470 -85041-8


Permanent results

Wide range of touches

Breathable

Thermoplastic resin

Polyurethanes Characteristics (Textile)

Low scrapeability

Low compatibility with DMDHEU

Mostly Synthetic / non-natural touch

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