To prepare the fretboard for cutting fret slots:True one edge of the fretboard blank on the jointer.-

True one of the other edges square to it (this will be the nut end).-

FretboardWednesday, January 16, 2013

9:36 PM

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Draw the centerline and cut fret slots○

Taper the fret board○

Radius the fret board○

Next steps:•

This is the saw blade used for cutting the fret slots. It is a thin blade (.025") intended for metal. It is surrounded on either side by steel wheels that are concave on the inner face next to the blade. When tightened into the table saw, the concave outer metal wheels put pressure on the rims of the saw blade, preventing wandering during the cuts.

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Stew Mac sells these for lots of money.

Jig for cutting fret slots. Note the registration mark.

The cuts must be perpendicular to the jointed edge of the fret board.

The fret stick indicates fret locations. Cut out 21 fret slots to a depth of 1/8" (half the depth of the fret board). Make the cut somewhat slowly in the forward direction only - DO NOT drag the work back through the blade. Pick it up and reposition it for the next cut.

Fret slot cutter

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Poster board template for the fret board.

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Plexiglas fret board template. The 1/4" pins are used to center the template on the neck using the truss rod channel. There are metal-reinforced holes, one at either end of the template. These will be used to drill registration holes in the top of the neck and back of the fret board. Once these holes are drilled, registration pins will precisely align the fret board and neck.Note that cast Plexiglas holds up better to heat than poured Plexi. Table saw cuts will melt the edges of poured material.

Drilling the registration holes. The pins are 1/8" aluminum rods.Tip: when marking to an etched line (e.g. in a Plexi template), put the etched side down to avoid parallax issues when marking the work.

Fretboard registration pin template

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… on the neck surface…. Make sure you use a depth stop. (Unsure of depth to drill).

… and on the back of the fret board. Here, we determine the fret board centerline on the back side. The pins and holes on neck and fretboard are aligned using the fretboard taper template.

Clamping prior to drilling registration holes. Their location comes from the fret board template. The guides in the template for drilling the holes are just cheap bearings. They are 1/8" inside diameter and 3/8 (?) outside.

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Tapering the fret board. This jig is similar to the one used to locate the center seams of the top and back. Here, the template is used to set the stops so that the 2nd taper cut can be made.

Figuring the taper starts by measuring 1/8" in from the fret board pattern at the nut on either side. This is where the E strings go. We'll want 50% more (3/16") room between these strings and the fret board edge at the 12th fret, as this is where the strings' vibrations have the greatest amplitude.

The 2 measurements that determine the fret board are the total width at the nut (here 1 3/4") and the string spread at the saddle.

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Several examples of fret board outlines.

Jig for routing the fret board to the template.

Fretboard router jig

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Router with bushing for following the template.

Routing...

Clamps hold fretboard down on the jig.

Bar over handles insures the clamps don't disengage during routing.

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Preparing to radius the fret board. The radius is compound. The relevant arcs are 25" at the saddle end and 10" at the first fret.

Note the round sound hole cover above. This is used in the neck fitting jig. So, don't round off the rim of the sound hole with sandpaper until the neck has been fitted and this cover is no longer needed.

This jig is used with the large belt sander to accomplish the compound radiusing of the fret board.

Compound radius jig

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The centerline is marked at the nut end. There are markings around the 21st fret to allow the fret board to be centered on the jig.

Hold-downs on the sides must be tightened with a socket wrench.

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Hold-downs on the sides must be tightened with a socket wrench.

Penciling the fret board to check for thorough sanding.

Radiusing action: rock the jig (note radius arcs on the plywood ends) against the belt sander. Hold the jig behind where the fret board is mounted to apply good pressure.

Side dot locator

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Jig for drilling locator dots on the side of the fret board.

White plastic is the best material here. It contrasts well with the fretboard in any lighting. Fancier materials aren't as functional.

Markings make it clear where the dots go. To center a dot in the middle of a fret, there are registration marks on the jig. Used these to eyeball the center. For the 12th fret (2 marks), center as usual, then move side to side to line up dot locations with the nearest registration marks.

Jig, drill, registration marks.

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Drill holes slightly off-center and closer to the neck than the top of the fret board. This will leave more room for later fret board leveling.

12th fret dots.

Tools for dot insertion. Glue is thick super glue.

Put a dab of glue over the dot hole. Insert the plastic dot material. This material is cut with the end nipper, which causes it to deform slightly. Taper each new tip with sandpaper before inserting it into the hole.

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Once inserted, tap with the hammer and clip off excess with end nipper.

Use the large sanding block to trim the dot ends.

Finished side of fret board.

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