free bookcase plans 2010

The following bookcase plans are a collection of plans found freely available on the Internet.

The plans include:

1. Basic Pine Bookcase

Our pine bookcase, for example, features simple construction and it's designed to be built with basic woodworking tools. Yet, the finished project is a worthy and useful addition to any room of the house. While it's meant to rest on the floor, you can convert the bookcase to a wall-mounted storage unit by leaving off the baseboard. You can secure the cabinet to the wall by screwing through the cabinet cleats into the wall studs. Reference: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/1273111.html

2. Under window two shelf bookcase

This simple under-window two shelf unit is a useful little number! The plans are pretty light-on instruction but provide a good Reference: http://woodworking.about.com/library/WoodworkingProjects/FreeBookcasePlans.pdf

3. Triangular Bookcase

This interesting upside down bookcase would make a good talking piece at your house and it’s quite inexpensive to build. Reference: http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourhouse/factsheets/db/intheworkshop/01/182.asp

4. Narrow DVD Bookcase

A handy plan for a simple narrow book and DVD case. Reference: http://www.woodgears.ca/shelves/bookcase.html

5. Custom Bookcase with Curves

This little custom made bookcase has some nice curves to it. A little more than your basic bookcase but still nice and simple. Reference: http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/bookcase.html

6. Simple Rectangle Bookcase

This one is a really simple, straightforward plan for your basic rectangle bookcase. Reference: http://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-brochure.ashx/57/How_to_make_a_timber_bookcase.pdf?stateID=3

7. Playhouse Bookcase

This wooden playhouse bookcase is an interesting and novel bookcase for the kids. Reference: http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/playhouse_bookcase.html

8. The Booknook

Now this one won’t be easy, but how awesome does it look? Probably for the more advanced woodworker or those willing to give it a go anyway! Made up of a number of pieces it looks just great and I’m sure would be put to good use in your home. Reference: http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/pdf/wb294-booknook.pdf

9. Stylish Mahogany Bookcase

This stylish bookcase is constructed of solid mahogany and features details of pomele sapele veneer and wenge. The case's finished back allows it to be used either against a wall or in the center of a room as a partition. Reference: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/1273326.html?do=print

10. Trapezoid bookcase

This interesting Trapezoid bookcase is attractive, a little different and it comes apart easily for transporting. Reference: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00018.asp

11. Bookends

Ok, so this one isn’t technically a bookcase – hey, but its book related. This one is a really simple quick and easy one for the kids to make or for the absolute beginner woodwork! Reference: http://home.comcast.net/~tmlevandusky/PowWow-woodworking/plans/bookends.pdf

Fig. 1 Mark the lengths of the bookcase

side panels on 1 x 10 lumber and use a

square to lay out the crosscut lines.

How To Build A BookcaseBY ROSARIO CAPOTOSTO

Illustrations by George Retseck

Published in the May 2000 issue.

High-end furniture projects are great to dream about. But unless you have a well-equipped shop and some serious woodworking

experience to draw on, it can be difficult to turn the dream into a reality.

Not every piece of furniture needs to be a museum showpiece, though. Often a simple design does the job just as well and the

experience gained in completing it goes a long way toward making the next project even better.

Our pine bookcase, for example, features simple construction and it's designed to be built with basic woodworking tools. Yet, the

finished project is a worthy and useful addition to any room of the house. While it's meant to rest on the floor, you can convert the

bookcase to a wall-mounted storage unit by leaving off the baseboard. You can secure the cabinet to the wall by screwing

through the cabinet cleats into the wall studs.

We made the case out of materials available at most building-supply dealers and lumberyards, including 1/2 x 3/4-in. parting strip,

1 x 2, 1 x 4 and 1 x 10 common pine and 1/4-in.-thick lauan plywood. Assembly is quick and easy with glue and nails, and when

you're done with construction you have the option of a painted or clear finish.

As for basic tools, you'll need a portable circular saw, hammer, block plane, combination square, tape measure, metal rule, two

clamps, nail set and putty knife. Other supplies include glue, nails, sandpaper, wood filler and varnish or paint and shellac.

The specifications that follow will produce a bookcase with overall dimensions of 10 3/4 in. deep x 34 in. wide x 48 in. tall. While

the depth of the case is directly tied to the 1 x 10 stock, you can vary the height, width and shelf spacing to suit your needs. Keep

in mind, though, that extending the width of the cabinet may require the addition of central shelf supports.

Cutting the Parts

For precise crosscuts, first make a simple, self-aligning T-guide for your circular

saw. Cut a piece of 1/2-in. plywood to 2 1/2 x 24 in. and glue and screw it to a

roughly 12-in.-long piece of 1 x 4 pine that will serve as the crossbar of the T.

Center the plywood strip along the 1 x 4 and make sure the pieces are perfectly

square to each other.

Butt the crossbar of the T-guide against the edge of a piece of scrap lumber,

tack the guide in place and make a cut through the 1 x 4 with your saw base

guided by the plywood strip. Then, trim the 1 x 4 on the opposite side in the

same way. Now, the ends of the 1 x 4 can be aligned with layout lines on the

stock for precise cut positioning.

Begin construction by using a tape measure to mark the length of a side panel

on 1 x 10 stock, and lay out the cut line with a square (Fig. 1). The side panels

on our bookcase are 48 in. long.

Place the T-guide against the edge of the stock and align its trimmed end with

the cut line. Tack the guide in place and use your circular saw to make the cut

(Fig. 2).

To support your work during the cuts, use 2 x 4s spanning two saw-horses for a

temporary bench and clamp your work in place. Set your circular saw cutting

depth so the blade cuts about 1/8 in. into the 2 x 4s.

After both sides are cut to length, lay out and cut the five shelves to length to

suit the width of your bookcase. Our shelf length is 31 in.

Rip the four lower shelves to 8 7/8 in. wide to allow for the thickness of the case

Popular Mechanics http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/12731...

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Fig. 2 With a T-guide cut to match your

saw, align the end of guide with crosscut

line. Tack guide to the work and then make

the cut.

Fig. 3 Use a straight strip as a guide when

ripping stock for the four lower shelves to 8

7/8 in. The top shelf remains a full 1 x 10.

Fig. 4 After cutting shelf cleats oversize,

gang them together with tape, mark the cut

lines and trim with a T-guide and circular

saw.

Fig. 5 Butt sides together with shelf-

location marks on outer edges. Use a

straightedge to extend the shelf marks

back. Clamp each shelf to the sawhorses and tack a straight strip to the work to

guide your circular saw (Fig. 3).

Next, cut the 10 shelf-support cleats from lengths of 1/2 x 3/4-in. parting strip. Use a

handsaw to cut the pieces slightly oversize, then gang the pieces together with

masking tape. Mark the cut lines and use your circular saw and T-guide to cut the

cleats to 8 7/8 in. long (Fig. 4).

Because we varied the spaces between the shelves, the vertical back cleat lengths vary. Rough cut and mark the back cleats in

pairs. From the top down, the lengths are 8, 9, 9 1/2 and 11 1/4 in. When cutting the back cleats with the T-guide, first gang them

together so all the marks on one side align. After the cut, untape the cleats and reposition them so the marks on the opposite side

are aligned for the next cut.

Assembly

First mark the shelf cleat locations. Hook your tape measure to the top edge of a

side panel, extend the tape and place marks at the following dimensions: 3/4, 10 1/4,

20 3/4, 31 3/4 and 44 1/2 in. These marks indicate the top edges of the shelf cleats.

Transfer the marks to the other panel. Lay both side pieces edge to edge with the

marks on the outer edges and use a rule or straightedge to extend the shelf

locations across both panels at once (Fig. 5).

Use 2d nails and glue to attach the shelf cleats to the sides. Position the cleats so

they're flush with the front edges of the sides. Then, attach the vertical back cleats,

leaving a 3/4-in. gap at the bottom of each back cleat for a shelf (Fig. 6). The gaps

will help to keep the shelves aligned during assembly. Align the back cleats with the

back ends of the shelf cleats to provide the 3/8-in. recess for the back panel.


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across work.

Fig. 6 Nail and glue shelf cleats and back

cleats to the side panels. Note that cleats

are recessed 3/8 in. from back edge of

sides.

Fig. 7 Secure one side to the shelves with

glue and 6d finishing nails. Then flip the

assembly over and attach the other side.

Set all nails.

Fig. 8 Attach the 1 x 2 strips to the case

starting with a vertical member. Then, add

the horizontal pieces and the other vertical.

To join the sides and shelves, first lay a side panel on a few 2 x 4s placed on the

floor. With a helper assisting, stand the shelves in position and lay the opposite side

on the shelf ends. Start a pair of 6d finishing nails at each shelf location so the

points just penetrate the shelves. Lift the side off and apply glue to the endgrain of

the shelves. Let the glue soak in for a few minutes, then apply a second coat. Follow

with a coat of glue on the sides and cleats. Replace the panel using the nail points to

align the shelves. Then drive the nails (Fig. 7) and set them below the surface.

After the first side is attached, grasp the sides at one end while your helper grasps

the opposite end and flip the assembly over. Secure the remaining side and check

that the case is square. If necessary, tack a diagonal brace across the back to hold it

while the glue sets. When the glue is dry cut a piece of parting strip to fit between

the two top cleats and under the top shelf. This piece will be set 3/8 in. in front of the

top shelf rear edge to provide room for the back panel. Glue and nail this long cleat

to the shelf.

Adding the Fascia

To fit the 1 x 2 fascia over the case front edges, first mark the stock for crosscutting.

Make the vertical pieces 48 in. long to match the sides and mark the horizontal

members at 29 1/2 in. Rough cut the pieces to length and use the T-guide and

circular saw to trim them squarely to exact size.

Apply glue to one of the vertical members and nail it to the case so its edge is flush with the side. Then, add each horizontal

member with glue and nails, keeping the top edges flush with the shelf tops (Fig. 8). Finally, add the remaining vertical member

with nails and glue.

Use 1 x 4 stock for the front and two side baseboard pieces. Cut the length of each

side piece to 10 in. long and glue and nail the parts in place. Then, cut the front

baseboard piece to 34 in. long and secure it so its ends are flush with the side

pieces.

After the glue has dried, use a block plane to trim a chamfer around the top edge of

the baseboard. Plane the side pieces first, working from front to back to avoid

splitting the corners of the front piece. Then, plane the front piece to match. It helps

to lean the plane against the case to maintain a uniform angle (Fig. 9).

The final component is the case back. Lay out the cut lines on 1/4-in.-thick lauan

plywood. Tack a straight strip to the panel to serve as a guide for your circular saw

and cut the stock to size (Fig. 10). Attach the back panels to the case with glue and

1-in. finishing nails.


3 of 4 9/03/2010 8:56 PM

Fig. 9 Use a block plane to shape the

chamfers on the baseboard. Rest the plane

against the case to maintain a uniform

angle.

Fig. 10 Cut the 1/4-in.-thick back panel to

size with a circular saw. Use a straight strip

as a guide when making the cuts.

Fig. 11 Use a nail set to drive all nails

below the surface. Then apply wood filler

over the nailheads with a putty knife.

Fig. 12 Apply shellac to any knots before

painting. This will seal the knots and

prevent sap from bleeding through.

Finishing

First make sure all the nails are set below the surface. Use a putty knife to fill the nail

holes with wood filler and let the compound dry (Fig. 11).

Sand the entire bookcase with 120- followed by 220-grit sandpaper. Then, use a

sanding block and 220-grit paper to slightly ease all corners. Thoroughly dust off the

case with a tack rag.

If you plan to paint your bookcase, first apply two coats of shellac over each knot to

prevent the knots from bleeding through the final paint job (Fig. 12).

Then, prime and paint the bookcase according to the manufacturer's instructions.


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Free Under-Window Bookshelf Plans

© 2006 Chris Baylor, licensed to About.com, Inc.

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Triangular bookcase

Shirl builds a striking upside-down bookcase which couldbe the makings of an interesting reading corner.

More In the Workshop >>

Search FACT SHEETS >>

1Cut cedar into two pieces. One 1m (top) long and the other 600mm (bottom). Sand.

2Mark the sides and front edges to be beveled on the cedar. On the top piece mark60mm x 30mm and on the bottom piece 30mm x 30mm. Then using a power plane,cut a bevel edge along front and sides only, to allow the unit to sit flat against thewall (see diagram A).

3Cut the ply into strips, the first two 1.5m x 280mm (side panels) the rest will be usedfor shelving so cut this into two pieces at 258mm x 2.4m.

4Lay out the top and bottom of the unit on a flat surface balanced on their back edgesand place side panels in between. This is to work out the bevel angle for the top andbottom of the side pieces. NB: Once you have the bevel angle for the sides it will bethe same for the shelves.

5After the sides have been bevelled , router out a 12mm x 8mm rebate on the back ofeach panel.

6Mark out the shelves, cut and fit them with screws from the side. Screw the bottom inplace from underneath.

7Turn the unit over and place lining boards in position on the back and cut asrequired to fit the angled sides. After cutting the lining boards, fit them together andplace into the back as one piece. It should fit into the rebate and be flush with thesurrounds so it can't be seen from the side. Nail into place.

TO FINISH:

Body of bookcase was whitewashed and top/bottom recycled timber will bevarnished.Diagrams

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MATERIALS

1.6m recycled western red cedar 45mm x 290mm (found for free)1.2m2 of V-joint pine lining boards 180mm x 12mm $15one sheet of 15mm ply 2400mm x 1200mm $60one pack 40mm wood screws $1.50500ml varnish $15500ml white wash paint $5one pack 35mm nails $1.50

Tools

Circular sawPower planeHand planeBelt sanderHammerScrew gunRouterSliding bevel

TOTAL COST

The bookcase cost approximately $98 to make.

MORE INFO

Materials available at leading hardware stores.

Disclaimer

All Fact Sheets and other material on the Our House website are provided as ageneral information service only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for theadvice of a properly qualified tradesman. Neither ninemsn nor its licensors (includingthe Nine Network) assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable forthe accuracy or appropriate application of any information whatsoever in any FactSheet or other material on the Our House web site. Your use of the Our House website is governed by this disclaimer and the ninemsn's Terms of Use.

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3 of 3 9/03/2010 9:06 PM

Building a bookcase for DVDs

A friend had the a spot in her basement where she wanted abookcase for her DVD collection of very specific dimensions.

I started with some boards of "pine shelving". This lumber isfairly clear of knots, and planed smoother than constructionlumber would be.

I started by cutting the pieces for the bookcase's shelves tolength. The next step was to plane one edge of every shelf onthe jointer. That way, I was sure that one side of the shelveswas a straight edge, and free of any nicks. I planed a stack offour of these at a time on the jointer.

After planing one edge, I ripped the shelves to the desiredwidth. Its easier and more precise doing this with the shorterpieces.

I also planed and ripped the edges of the upright sides, thoughthese were much longer pieces, of course.

After cutting all the shelves, I put them sideby side, just to check that they were indeedexactly the same width. The next step wasto mark the position for the dowel holes with

Building a bookcase for DVDs http://www.woodgears.ca/shelves/bookcase.html

1 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM

a marking gauge. I put for dowels in eachend of each shelf. I used two markinggauges for this, and marked in from eitherside, so that I could just leave the markinggauges set and locked in their settings formarking the uprights later.

The next step was to drill the holes for thedowels in the ends of the boards. I jiggedup the drill press a little to make this easier.The table served as a side-stop, while thestack of scrap lumber on the base serves asthe support for the piece. That way, I onlyneeded to worry about aligning to the lines Ihad scored in the ends of the boards, andcould use the depth stop on the drill to getall the holes the same depth. With 8shelves, and 4 holes on each end, that's 64holes to be drilled, so it was worth jiggingup.

Once I had the holes all drilled in the shelfboards, I put them side by side to see if Imight have drilled any of the holes a littleoff. With them side by side, that sort ofthing would be easy to spot. Fortunately,there wasn't any mistakes.

To mark the hole positions for the shelves, Istrung a tape measure along the boards toform the bokkcase's upright, and put a tickmark at all the heights where the dowel


2 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM

lines would be.

Next I draw lines across the board with asquare, and then used the marking gaugesto mark a tick for the position of every hole.

After marking the positions, I used a centerpunch to mark the hole positions a littledeeper. This made it it easier to get the drillin the right position on the drill press.

The for center punching all the holes wasbecause it helps to align the holes with theboard on the drill press, which was not soeasy when balancing the big board on thesmall drill press table.

The next step was to glue all the shelves toone of the uprights...

And clamp them. Being sureto check each shelf with asquare to make sure itsperpendicular to the upright.


3 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM

I also cleaned up the glue squeezeout from each joint once I had clamped it.

After giving the glue a few hours to dry, itwas time to glue the other upright to theshelves. This is where it got a little bit tricky.

I

sanded each dowel to have a bevel on thetop end (to form a bit of a cone), to make iteasier to align the shelves to them. I thenglued them into the board that goes upright.Next was to put glue into the holes on theshelves, plus a line of glue across the endof the boards. I also put a drop of glue onthe tip of each dowel for good measure.

After that, it was time to mate the parts ofthe bookcase. I picked up the part with theshelves attached, and placed it over theboard which already had the dowels gluedin. I started by making sure the dowels onone end went in, and clamped it loosely.Then I worked towards the other end, shelf

by shelf, making sure the dowels are in. Once I got the dowels all in their respective holes. I put aclamp at every shelf to make sure everything was pressed together nice and good.

With the glue starting to dry while I did this, this has to proceed quickly, and so I didn't have time totake photos of this step, unfortunately.

The bottom-most shelf, I just nailed to the bottom. I wanted it to goacross the bottom of the uprights, instead of between the uprights,like the other shelves, because it has to support the weight of thewhole bookcase. With it being attached to the bottom, the nailsheads aren't visible from a usual vantage point, so I just nailed it tothe bottom.

And finally, to make the base, I glued threepieces of 2x4 that I planed down a little. Thebase is open to the back, and the sides arerabbeted into the front.

The purpose of the base is to raise the mainpart of the bookcase above the baseboards,so that it can be slid fully against a wall.

I then glued this base to the bottom of the


4 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM

shelf, though I also nailed it diangoally fromthe back, just to be on the safe side.

Related articles:

Same hself, but built with Hidden dado joints

Building Basement shelving

Building a Corner shelf

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How to Build a Wood Bookcase Free Woodworking Plans from Lee's Wood Projects

Click on The Drawing to See Full Size

Every home should have a place for books, photo albums and other items of personal and professional interest. What better way to display

these treasured items than with a beautiful custom made bookcase. Whether it's located in a den, office, bedroom or family room, a bookcase will organize your life while adding a touch of class to your home. Lee's Wood Projects will show you how to build a wood bookcase in no time at all.

Technical Information for Building a Wood Bookcase

A . Materials List:

QUANTITY LETTER NAME SIZE MATERIAL 1 A Top ¾" x 13" x 32" Oak 2 B Sides ¾" x 12" x 48 1/2" Oak 1 C Top Shelf ¾" x 9 3/4" x 30 ½" Oak 3 D Shelves ¾" x 10 1/4" x 30 ½" Oak 1 E Bottom ¾" x 4" x 30 ½" Oak 3 F Shelve Fronts ¾" x 1 ½" x 30 ½" Oak 2 G Vertical Fronts ¾" x 2 ½" x 44" Oak 1 H Backing ¼ " x 31 ¼ " x 38 ¾" Oak Ply.

8 Shelf Supports Metal

B. Patterns:

1. Design and cut-out desired patterns for parts (A) (B) & (D) on poster board.

C. Cutting Procedure:

1. Use planer to mill lumber to ¾" thickness. 2. Use table & radial arm saws to cut lumber to proper widths & lengths. 3. Trace patterns (A) (B) & (D) onto lumber, cut shapes using a band saw, and finish using a

drum sander. 4. Route top of parts (A) & (B) using a 1" Rounding-Over Bit. 5. Route top edge of parts (F) and (E) using a 1 1/16" Roman-Ogee Bit. 6. Route inner edge of parts (G) using a 1 1/16" Roman-Ogee Bit. 7. Use a 3/8" half-round router bit to make two flutes 1" apart on-center and 32" long in each

vertical front (G), starting 6" from the top and ending 6" from the bottom. 8. Use a band saw to cut a ¾" x 44" notch in the front edge of sides (B) to fit the vertical fronts

(G) into place. 9. Drill 9/16" holes 3/8" deep into the insides of parts (B) for adjustable shelve supports. Space

holes 2" apart. 10. Use a band saw to cut a ¾" x 5 ½" notch in both ends of part (A) to fit sides (B) into place.

http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/woodshop.html#planer

http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/woodshop.html#radial

http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/woodshop.html#band

11. Use a table saw to cut ¼" x 3/8" rabbet joints into the back of the sides (B), bottom of top (A), top of bottom shelf (D) to position oak plywood backing (H).

12. Cut ¼" plywood backing (H) to proper size after (assembly) is complete.

D. Sanding Procedure:

1. Rough sand all parts of the wood bookcase using an orbital sander and 80 grit sand paper. 2. Intermediate sand using 120 grit sand paper. 3. Finish sand using 220 grit sand paper (during finish procedure). 4. Hand-sand all edges to desired finish.

E. Assembly Procedure:

1. Glue and nail vertical fronts (G) onto sides (B). Flush at the bottom. 2. Glue and nail shelf front (F) onto the top shelf (C). 3. Glue and nail shelf fronts (F) onto the two middle shelves (D). 4. Glue and nail the bottom (E) onto bottom shelf (D). 5. Glue and nail the sides (B) onto the top and bottom shelves (C) & (D). 6. Glue and nail sides (B) onto top (A). 7. Glue and nail back (H) onto sides (B) top (A) and bottom shelf (D).

Notes:

1. Use a professional-strength wood glue 2. Use 1 ¼" finish nails for all lumber. 3. Use ½" finish nails to attach the plywood backing. 4. Set all nails below the wood surface. 5. A nail gun could be used if available.

F. Finish Procedure:

1. Use plastic wood dough to fill all nail holes and cracks. 2. Finish sanding the wood bookcase using 220 grit sand paper. 3. Use a tack rag to remove all sawdust. 4. If stain is desired, apply with a brush and allow to penetrate 5-10 minutes and then remove

with a clean rag. 5. Allow stain to dry approximately 6 hours and then repeat with a second coat. 6. Allow second coat to dry approximately 8 hours. 7. Use a tack rag to remove dust. 8. Apply clear finish coat such as Varathane, Polyurethane, ect. using a pure-bristle brush. Allow

to dry 12 hours. 9. Lightly hand sand using 220 grit sandpaper. 10. Use a tack rag to remove all dust. 11. Apply second coat of clear finish. 12. Allow to dry 24 hours before using the bookcase.

*Congratulations, your wood bookcase is finished and ready to use!

Materials

What you’ll need to get startedon your D.I.Y. Project

Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF)

Screws - countersunk

Nails

Sandpaper (fi ne)

Paint (optional)

PVA glue

Tools

Electric hand saw

Electrical drill and bits

Builders square

Plane

Spirit Level

Safety

Always keep tools and materials away from children.

Read the instructions before beginning your project.

Wear an approved dust mask when cutting, planing or sanding timberAS/N251716.

Safety glasses and ear protection should be worn at all times.

Do not burn timber off cuts as they contain toxins.

Planning your nextD.I.Y. Project

The Bunnings D.I.Y. brochures are designed to help you step the way through your D.I.Y. home projects.

They’ll give you the right advice on what materials you’ll need,how to get the job done and tips and ideas for achieving

the best result.

For more information go tobunnings.com.au

Build a Bookcase

BUN

N751 12/08

Expert D.I.Y. adviceIf it’s advice you’re after, come in and discuss the project with

one of our experts. Ask about organising Same Day Delivery, Tool Hire,Installation or even enrol in one of our D.I.Y. classes.

How to build a bookcase

D.I.Y.FREE

How to D.I.Y. Build a Bookcase

A bookcase is a fantastic way to conserve space and it is also an attractive way of correctly storing your books.

Please Note:

Information in this brochure is Bunnings’ opinion and we don’t warrant the accuracy or completeness of that information. Bunnings excludes all liability in relation to the statements in this brochure.

Connecting

Starting with the base shelf, glue and then drill 2 screws in to each side with an electric drill. Check regularly to enure that the shelves are square and level with the sides (Fig 2). Continue to attach the shelves working your way to the top. It is a good idea to fully tighten all shelves once you have reached the top, this way you will easily fi t the last shelf.

Attaching back panel

Once all the shelves are in position and fi rmly connected to the side panels, attach the back panel. To attach the backing, lay the unit face down then glue and nail the back in place on the sides, bottom, top and each shelf. If your back panel doesn’t fi t the structure perfectly you can trim off any overhang with the saw or plane. Allow the bookshelf to dry.

Finishing up

If there is any timber overhanging around the case, trim it off with the electric saw and plane for a smooth fi nish. Sand all the edges of the completed bookcase and apply your choice of timber fi nish. You may choose to paint the bookcase to match the décor of the room where it will sit.

Cutting timber

Cut all the timber pieces (MDF panels or pine) to length making sure all cuts are square (Fig 1).

Components Quantity Size

Sides 2 240mm x 19mm x 2000mm

Base, top and 7 240mm x 19mm x 862mmShelves

Back 1 900mm x 19mm x 2000mm

Screw holes

Now that you have your timber cut it’s time to mark out your desired shelf spacing. Lay down the two side panels side by side and pre-drill 2 screw holes on both side panels for each shelf at your desired height.

For further expert advice consult the qualifi ed Team Members at your local Bunnings Warehouse.

Fig 1. Dimensions of the bookcase.

Fig 2. When attaching shelves, check they are square and level with the sides using a spirit level.

Lee's Wood Projects - How to Make a Wooden Playhouse Bookcase

Technical Information for Making a Wooden Playhouse Bookcase

A. Materials List:

QUANTITY LETTER NAME SIZE MATERIAL

1 A Top Back Panel 1/8" x 23 1/8" x 39 1/2" Masonite

1 B Middle Back Panel 1/8" x 12 1/2" x 39 1/2" Masonite

1 C Bottom Back Panel 1/8" x 12 1/2" x 39 1/2" Masonite

2 D Side Walls 5/8" x 10 1/2" x 40" Paint Grade

Poplar

2 E Roofs 5/8" x 12 1/2" x 26 1/8"" Paint Grade

Poplar

1 F Top Floor 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 39" Paint Grade

Poplar

1 G Middle Floor 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 39" Paint Grade

Poplar

1 H Bottom Floor 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 39" Paint Grade

Poplar

3 I Interior Walls 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 12" Paint Grade

Poplar 2 J Fascia Trim 1/2" x 3 1/4" x 22 5/16" Paint Grade

Poplar

1 K Front Base Trim 1/2" x 4" x 41 1/2" Paint Grade

Poplar

2 L Side Base Trim 1/2" x 4" x 11 1/8" Paint Grade

Poplar

1 M Bottom Floor Support 5/8" x 3 3/8" x 10 3/8" Paint Grade

Poplar

20 N Vertical Door Frames 1/4" x 3/8" x 10 1/8"" Paint Grade

Poplar

10 O Horizontal Door

Frames 1/4" x 3/8" x 4 1/2"

Paint Grade Poplar

4 P Vertical Window

Framess 1/4" x 3/8" x 5"

Paint Grade Poplar

4 Q Horizontal Window

Framess 1/4" x 3/8" x 4 1/2"

Paint Grade Poplar

6 R Vertical Window Grids 1/4" x 1/4" x 2 " Paint Grade

Poplar

4 S Horizontal Window

Grids 1/4" x 1/4" x 3 3/4"

Paint Grade Poplar

B. Cutting Procedures:

1. Scale fascia trim (J) to the drawing dimension size. This can be accomplished by measuring the print out and dividing that size into the dimension size. This will give a multi-factor that can be used to figure the enlargement size for the patterns. This can be easily done at home if you have a copier capable of making enlargements. If not, most companies that do duplicating can make the enlargements required for the pattern.

2. Trace the pattern enlargements onto poster board or Mylar and use a pair of scissors to cut out the pattern.

C. Sanding Procedures:

1. Joint one edge of all lumber. 2. Plane the side walls (D), Roofs (E), front base trim (K), side base trim (L), and the bottom

floor support (M) 5/8" thick. 3. Plane the floors (F), (G), and (H), plus the interior walls (I), and the fascia trim (J) 1/2" thick. 4. Use a table saw to rip the side walls (D) 10 1/2" wide. Also rip the floors (F), (G), and (H), plus

the interior walls (I) 10 3/8" wide. Rip the roofs (E) 12 1/2" wide. 5. Rip the front base trim (K) and the side base trim (L) 4" wide. Also rip the bottom floor support

(M) 3 3/8" wide. 6. Rip the fascia trim (J) 3 3/4" wide. 7. Use a radial arm saw to cut the side walls (D) 40 7/8", each floor 39", and the three interior

walls (I) 12" long respectively. 8. Cut the fascia trim (J) 26 1/2", the front base trim (K) 41 1/2", side base trim (L) 11 1/8", and

the bottom floor support (M) 10 3/8" long respectively. 9. Trace the fascia trim pattern on the two fascia trim boards (J). 10. Use a band saw to cut out the patterns on the fascia trim (J). 11. Use a spindle sander to sand the fascia trim design. 12. Use a power miter saw to cut 29 degree angles on both ends of the fascia trim (J). Both fascia

trim should be 22 5/16" after the angle cuts. Cut one end of each roof (E) 29 degrees to form the roof peak. Also cut the top of each side wall (D) 29 degrees to match the roof and fascia trim angles.

13. To find the placement for the windows draw horizontal lines 21 15/16" and 26 3/16" up from the bottom of the side walls (D). Also draw vertical lines 3 3/8" and 7 1/8" in from the left

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edges. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of each window area and use a scroll saw to cut out the window openings.

14. To find the placement for the window in each exterior door, draw horizontal lines 11 3/4" and 13 3/4" up from the bottom of each side wall (D). Also draw vertical lines 3 3/8" and 7 1/8" in from the left edges. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of each door/window area and use a scroll saw to cut out the door/ window openings.

15. Use a band saw to cut out a 3 3/4" x 9 3/4" door opening in each interior wall (I). 16. Plane a board 1/4" thick for the window grids (R) and (S), plus the door frames(N) and (O),

and the window frames (P) and (Q). 17. Use a table saw with a fine toothed blade to rip the door and window frame material 3/8"

wide. Also rip the window grid material 1/4" wide. 18. Use a miter saw to cut the vertical and horizontal window and door frames (N), (O), (P), and

(Q) to their proper lengths. The corners should be cut at 45 degree angles. 19. Use a miter saw to cut the horizontal and vertical window grids (R) and (S) to their proper

lengths. 20. Rip the remainder of the 5/8" thick board 4" wide for the front base (K) and the side bases (L).

Use a table saw to cut a 45 degree bevel at the top edges of the front and side bases. Also use a miter saw to cut 45 degrees angles on both ends of the front base and on one end of each side base.

21. Use a table saw and a dado blade to cut a 5/16" x 1/8" rabbet joint on the back/inside edge of each side wall (D) and each roof (E). The joint on each roof edge should be blind rabbet joint 22 5/8" long, starting from the roof peak to the side walls. Note: The rabbet joints should not extend into the roof overhang areas.

22. Use a table saw to rip the top, middle, and bottom back masonite panels (A), (B), and (C) 39 5/8" wide. To determine the shape of the top panel (A), measure up 12 5/16" on both sides of and 23 3/16" up from the middle of the panel. With a straight edge draw lines from the top/center of the panel to the 12 5/16" marks. Use a band saw to cut out the shape. Use a table saw to rip the height of the middle panel (B) 12 1/2". Rip the height of the bottom panel(C) 16 1/2".

D. Sanding Procedures:

1. Use a power orbital sander with 120 grit sandpaper to sand all the large pieces of the playhouse bookcase.

2. Use a power orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper to finish sand all the large pieces. 3. Hand sand all the door and window frames, and the window grids with 220 grit sandpaper. 4. Hand sand all edges and slightly round all sharp corners. 5. Use a tack rag to remove all sanding dust.

E. Wood Playhouse Bookcase Assembly Procedures:

1. Place the bottom floor (H) on a work bench. Mark 12" in from both ends for the placement of the interior walls (I). Also, mark the middle floor (G) the same as the bottom floor. Mark the top floor (F) and the middle floor (G) 19 1/4" in from the ends for the placement of the upper interior wall (I).

2. Place wood glue on the upper edges of the two bottom interior walls (I). Stand the interior walls on the bottom floor (H) in position with the two marks. Align the middle floor (G) on top of the bottom interior walls and use a nail gun with 1 1/4' nails to secure them together. Turn the assembly on its back edges and place glue on the bottom edges of the interior walls. Align the bottom floor and nail it to the interior walls.

3. Place wood glue on the top and bottom edges of the upper interior wall (I) and nail the middle floor to it. Also align the upper floor to the upper interior wall and nail them together.

4. Place marks on the side walls (D) for the placement of the floors (F), (G), and (H). These marks should be 4", 16 1/2", and 29" from the bottom of each side wall.

5. Stand the floor/interior wall assembly on its right side and place glue on the ends of the three floors. Align the left side wall with the marks and nail it onto the floors. Repeat the process to

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attach the right side wall. NOTE: Make sure that the floors, interior walls and the side walls are all flush on the front edges before gluing and nailing.

6. Use bar clamps to secure the floors and walls together and allow the glue to dry over night. Use a square to assure that all the angles are 90 degrees on the assembly.

7. Place glue on the top ends of the side walls (D), and the roof peak ends of the roofs (E). 8. Nail the two roof peaks together and then align the roof assembly with the side walls and nail

it secure. Be sure that the roof overhang is 2 13/16" on each side. Also, the roof assembly should extend 1" beyond the side walls on the front and back sides of the side walls.

9. Place glue on the ends and top edges of the fascia trim (J) and temporarily clamp them to the roof. Nail the fascia trim to the roof and the side walls. The fascia trim should be flush with the front edges of the side walls.

10. Place glue on the top edge of the floor support (M). Position the floor support 19 3/16" from one of the side walls and nail the bottom floor (H) to it.

11. Stand the playhouse bookcase assembly upright on a work bench. Place glue on the front edge of the bottom floor (H), front end of the floor support (M) and the bottom edges of the side walls (D). The side wall edges need glue only on the bottom 4". Position the front base trim (K) to the playhouse bookcase and nail it to the side walls, bottom floor, and the floor support. Place glue on the inside of each side base trim (L) and nail them to the side walls and the ends of the front base trim.

12. Glue the door and window frames (N), (O), (P), & (Q) in place. Each interior and exterior door should be framed on each side of the wall. Also, each window should be framed on both sides.

13. Glue the window grids (R) & (S) in place. 14. Lay the playhouse bookcase on its front. Place glue in the rabbet joints of the side walls (D

and the roof (E). Also place glue on the back edges of the floors (F), (G), & (H) as well as the back edged of the interior walls (I).

15. Position the back panels (A), (B), and (C) in place and nail them with 1/2" brads.

Notes: Be sure to clean up any excess glue during the assembly.

F. Finish Procedures:

1. Use wood dough to fill all the nail holes, cracks and imperfections. When dry, sand flush with the surfaces.

2. Use a tack rag to remove all sanding dust. 3. Apply a coat of latex primer to all surfaces. 4. Apply two coats of interior latex paint to all surfaces.

*Congratulations, your wooden playhouse bookcase is finished and ready to use!

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40 WORKBENCH APRIL 2006

WORKBENCH HOME: BOOK NOOK

ABookNookBUILT-IN

Almost every home could benefit from additional storage, more seating, and aninflux of extra style.This built-in book nook delivers all three.

The project starts with a broad bench seat that offers a comfortable place tokick back and relax while you read under the warm glow of built-in pucklights overhead. Underneath, you’ll find a serious amount of storage space.Twotall bookcases that flank the bench are the perfect place for books, of course,but also for displaying your favorite collectibles.

The transformation this project brings to the style and feel of a room isnothing less than astonishing.And no less amazing is that the project is easy tobuild, a breeze to install, and remarkably affordable.

All you need are standard woodworking tools, some plywood and solidpoplar stock, a couple weekends, and a few hundred dollars. Of course, you’llalso want the solid advice offered in the upcoming pages that show you how toplan and build a book nook to fit your space.

Open up a new chapter in the story of your home with thisbuilt-in window seat and bookcase. It brings stylish seating,storage, and display space to any room. Best of all, you canput it all together in a couple of weekends for about $500.

41www.WorkbenchMagazine.com

All projects require planning before getting underway.That’s no secret. Butto get an integrated, seamless look witha built-in, the planning process is espe-cially important.

Build to Fit — Obviously,you needto make sure the project will fit the roomwhere it will be installed.That meansyou’ll need to thoroughly survey thelocation and record all the critical measurements, as shown on page 80.

Build To Suit — Equally importantwith a built-in, though, is making theproject complement the room. To do that, you need to pay close attention tothe stylistic elements of the room (Photo, left, and Illustration, below).

In this room,the woodwork is painted,so we painted the project,as well.We alsoechoed the room’s beadboard panelingby using beadboard for the backs of thebookcases. Plus, we removed panelingbehind the book nook to make sure itwould look built in, not tacked on.

Results May Vary —This all meansyou’re likely to build your book nookdifferently than ours.The measurementswill almost certainly be different (ourwall was 11-feet,3" wide and the ceiling,at 98", is higher than normal).And youmay want to alter the style, as well. Inspite of the inevitable changes,however,this project will remain simple to build(Construction View, right).

Even a relatively bare room offeredplenty of information about buildingthe book nook. The painted wood-work and beaded paneling offeredstyling cues that help the book nookdesign blend in. An electrical outletand cold-air return needed to beaccommodated in the project design.

PLAN YOUR PROJECT

TO SUIT THE SPACE



CONSTRUCTION VIEW


The foundation for the book nook is thisbroad bench seat.With its ample seatingand built-in storage,the bench seat wouldmake a great project on its own.

The seat starts off with two plywoodbase units (built separately to simplifyinstallation) that are assembled with

dado and rabbet joints. A face frameencloses the front, and a plywood seatpanel tops it off (Base Assembly, below).

To determine the length of each unit,measure the wall it will rest against, andthen subtract an inch for clearance (seepage 80).Then divide this number in half.

Once you’vedetermined howlong to make eachbase unit, cut thebase tops (A), ends(B), and dividers(C) to size from3/4" plywood.

Before movingon, cut a notch in each divider.These will receivea cleat that’s usedto secure each baseunit to the wall(Cleat Detail,below).

Dado for Secure Joints — Nowit’s time to lay out a series of dadoes inthe base top and bottom, as well as adado and rabbet in each base end.Theseare shown in the Base Assembly below.

You’ll notice that the dadoes thathouse the dividers aren’t spaced equally.This is because of the bookcases thatget added later.As the Photo at left shows,those bookcases sit directly above theoutermost compartments in the benchseat. So I wanted the width of theseouter openings in the seat to match thewidth of the openings in the bookcases.

After laying out the position of thefirst divider dado, I located the dado for the other divider midway on theremaining length of the base unit.

With all the dado locations laid out,you can cut or rout the dadoes and rabbets.Then drill counterbored shankholes for the screws that will hold eachbase together.

CLEAT DETAILBASE ASSEMBLY

A BENCH SEAT STARTS IT OFF


Next, you can assemble the bases.Asyou do this, be sure to orient the piecescorrectly — with the wider compart-ments at the outer ends, and the notchesin the dividers toward the back.

Now,turn your attention to the backsof the base units. First, add base cleats(D).These get attached by screws drivenin from the base ends, as well as throughthe cleats into the dividers. Finally, cutback panels (E) to fit from 1/4" hardboard,and then attach each back with 1" brads.

Seat Panels Top It Off —The baseunits are topped by a pair of plywoodseat panels (F) made from 3/4" plywood.Each starts out 1/2" longer and 21/4" widerthan the assembled base unit it sits on.

At the front, this overhang allows theseat panel to extend past the face frameand molding that get added when thebench seat is installed.At the back andoutside edges, it gives an extra 1/2" so youcan scribe the seat to match the walls.Fornow,cut the seat panels to these oversizedimensions, and then set them aside.

You can also make the seat edging(G) now. It’s just a length of 1/4"-thicksolid stock that gets applied later to con-ceal the edge of the plywood seat panels.The Sidebar at right shows an easy wayto make the edging.

I cut my edging from a single pieceof 12-ft. long poplar. If you can’t find aboard long enough, you can make theedging in two pieces.That’s one of thebenefits of a painted project:You cansimply fill the seam before painting, andnobody will never know.

In either case, set the seat paneledging aside for now, too. It doesn’t getapplied until the book nook is installed.

Best Face Forward — The final element of the bench seat is a face frame that covers the front of both baseunits. This frame is made up of longrails connected by stiles that align withthe dividers in the base units. Wheninstalled, these stiles will conceal thedividers in the base units.

The face frame couldn’t be simpler tobuild.Butt joints and pocket screws holdit together (Pocket Screw Detail, below).

Like the seat panels, the face frameis also built longer than the distancebetween the walls it spans — 1/2", inthis case. The reason for oversizingremains the same here, too:You canscribe and trim the face frame to fittightly against the walls on both ends.

After calculating how long to makeyour face frame, cut the top rail (H),bottom rail (I), end stiles ( J), and middlestiles (K) to size.

Once again, I was lucky enough tofind 12-ft. long boards for my rails. If youcan’t find stock that’s long enough, youcan make two-piece rails and join themtogether with pocket screws.

Now bore the pocket holes in thestiles, align them with the rails, and thenscrew the face frame together. Set itaside until it’s time for installation.

POCKET SCREW DETAIL

FACE FRAME

1] After ripping one edge of a longboard straight, rout a 1/8" roundoveralong the edge.

2] Flip the board end-for-end, andround over the second edge usingthe same router-table setup.

3] To complete the seat edging,move to the table saw and rip therounded edge free of the board.

MOLDING MADE EASYThe long seat edging is just asimple 1/4" strip dressed up withrounded edges. That means theedging is simple to make, butone trick makes it even easier.

Rather than trying to roundover the edges of a thin strip,you’ll get better results byrounding the edges of a wideboard first, and then ripping the1/4"-thick edging free. It’s a three-step process at the router tableand table saw, as shown in thePhotos below.



The tall bookcases are built almost likethe base units. Each has a plywood casemade up of two sides that are connectedby shelves that fit into shallow dadoes.A face frame covers the front of theplywood case, while edging covers theplies on the front edge of the shelves(Case Assembly, below).

There is one very notable thingabout the way the bookcases are built.Each has one side that’s wider than theother, as shown in the Case Parts View,below right.You’ll see why if you lookat the Photo at left. One side of eachcabinet is visible. That means it likely

will need to be scribed to fit tightlyagainst the back wall.To allow for this,the side is extra-wide and extendsbeyond the back of the case (Wide SideRabbet Detail).The other side of the cab-inet is hidden. That means it doesn’thave to be scribed or built extra-wide.

As you might guess by now, we alsoaccounted for scribing with the faceframes. Each is 1/4" wider than the caseit attaches to.The overhang sits towardthe outside of each case where it abutsthe side wall of the room.

Build the Bookcases — With allthis in mind,you can start construction.

BOOKCASES COME NEXT

CASE ASSEMBLY

EDGING DETAIL



CASE PARTS VIEW

Rather than cutting all the sides atonce, I started with two 26" × 81"blanks made from 3/4" plywood. Eachblank is wide enough to produce onenarrow side (L) and one wide side (M).

The next step is to cut five dadoesand a rabbet across each blank (CaseParts View). These receive the shelves,and cutting them across a wide blankensures that,when assembled, the shelvesin each case will align exactly.

You can cut the dadoes and rabbet ina couple of ways. I used my table saw,which has a 52" rip fence — plenty ofcapacity to cut the dadoes. If your sawlacks that much capacity, use a routerand straight bit guided by a straightedge.

That done, rip each blank to make anarrow side (L) that’s 125/8" wide, anda wide side (M) that measures 131/4".

Run the Rabbets— Now you needto lay out a rabbet along the back edgeof each wide side.The rabbet serves twopurposes.It decreases the amount of mate-rial you’ll need to trim when scribing.And it provides a notch for the backpanel to rest in (Wide Side Rabbet Detail).

As you lay out the rabbet, rememberthis: On the left-hand bookcase, thewide side will go on the right. On theright-hand bookcase, the wide side goeson the left.Mark each side, so you don’taccidentally rabbet the wrong edge.

Bring on the Shelves —With thecase sides complete, you can cut theshelves and tops (N) to size. In mybookcases, the upper compartment is a lighted display area. So beforeassembling the cases, I bored a 21/8"hole centered in the two tops for thepuck lights to fit into.

After that, the bookcases can beassembled. I attached the shelves usingglue and 6d finish nails instead of screwsso that I didn’t have large holes to fill inthe visible (wide) sides before painting.

Next, cut two case cleats (O) foreach case and nail them to the case sides.You’ll drive screws through these cleatsto secure the bookcases to the wall.

The case backs (P) come next.Toecho the look of the beadboard pan-eling in the room, I made these backsfrom 3/8"-thick beaded plywood (I used Ply-Bead from Georgia Pacific;Plytanium.com).The backs get tackedon with 1" brads.

Fit the Face Frames — A solid-wood face frame comes next for eachcase (Face Frame Assembly, below left).Tomake them, cut frame stiles (Q), as wellas top (R), middle (S), and bottom (T)rails to size from solid stock. Thenassemble the frames with pocket screws.

You can glue and nail the face framesto the cases now.Make sure when doingso that each face frame sits flush with thewide side of each case and overhangs theside which will sit against the wall.

Add Shelf Edging — All that’s leftnow is to add edging (U) to the threeshelves that aren’t covered by the faceframe. This edging features a beadedroundover profile (Edging Detail) madeusing the same three-step techniquethat was used for the seat panel edging(Molding Made Easy, page 45). Start withextra-long edging pieces, then cut eachto fit the shelves.Glue and nails hold theedging in place without clamps.

A Good Time to Paint — With thebookcases assembled,most of the majorconstruction is complete for this project.But before you move on to installation,I advise painting most of the parts.Thatway, you can take your time withoutmaking a big mess in the room where thebook nook will be installed.See page 21for tips that will ensure a great paint job.

I primed and painted everything butthe seat panels. Those were left barebecause fitting the bookcases meanssliding them in and out of place a fewtimes,which could scratch up the paint.

WIDE SIDE RABBET DETAIL

FACE FRAME ASSEMBLY


Before you install the book nook, youmay need to do a little prep work inthe room. For example, I removed thebaseboard behind and beside the benchseat to ensure that I could tuck the backof the base units tight against the wall.

At the same time, I stripped off thebeadboard on the back wall where theproject would go.To me, that made thebook nook truly look built-in ratherthan tacked on.This, of course, led to a

bit of plaster repair.Then I decided

to go ahead andrepaint the room,so it would fullymatch the booknook.These typesof tasks are oftencalled “might-as-wells.” They taketime, but really do make a built-inproject look better.

Bring in the Bench Seat — Startinstallation by positioning the seat bases(Base & Frame Installation, below) Theyshould align without problem, but besure to double-check that the tops areflush and that the front edge of theassembly is straight (Photo, left). Thatdone, level the base units (Inset).

Next, shim between the back of thebase units and wall if necessary, and thendrive #10 × 31/2" screws through thebase cleat and into wall studs in at leastfour locations (two in each base unit).

Get Framed — Before attaching theface frame, scribe and trim the end stilesto match the walls. Using a templatesimplifies this process (see page 83).Alignthe face frame, and secure it with 6dfinish nails (Face Frame Detail).

Have a Seat — Next up are the seatpanels (Add Seat & Trim,page 49).Positionone panel so it overhangs the face frameconsistently. Now scribe and trim theback edge and outer end of the panel,

MOUNTING DETAIL

FACE FRAME DETAIL

INSTALL THE BENCH SEAT AND BOOKCASES

BASE & FRAME INSTALLATION

Screw the baseunits togetherand make surethey’re straightacross the front.Then level theassembly usingshims as needed.


using the techniques on page 82.Remember,once fitted, the panel shouldoverhang the face frame by 1".

Once this first panel fits, clamp it inplace. Then fit the second panel thesame way (Photo, below).After that, nailthe seat panels to the base units.

Slide In the Bookcases — Fittingthe bookcases comes next (Bookcases TopIt Off, right) Be prepared to test fit thema couple of times to get the best fit.

Start by making sure each case sitssquare on the bench seat (Photo, bottom).Then scribe the face frame, remove thecase, and trim it to fit.Refit the case, andthen scribe and trim the case side.Nowinstall the bookcase (Case Cleat Detail).

Finally,glue and nail on the seat edging(Seat Trim Detail). A piece of 3/4" covemolding (V) goes below.More cove wrapsaround the bookcases (Case MoldingDetail). Now you can paint these parts.

CASE CLEAT DETAIL CASE MOLDING DETAIL

SEAT TRIM DETAIL

ADD SEAT & TRIM

BOOKCASES TOP IT OFF

Each seat panel gets trimmed to fit thewall on the back and outside end. Thepanels should meet tightly at the center.

Use a framing square to make sure eachtall case is positioned properly beforescribing it and before installing it.



DRAWER ASSEMBLY

With the bench seat and bookcasesinstalled, I decided to add some enclosedstorage to the project with a pair ofdrawers (Photo, left).You could chooseto leave all the compartments open, orbuild even more drawers. It all dependson what suits your needs.

Each drawer is just a simple box covered by a false front with a decora-tive molding (Drawer Assembly).

Start by cutting the drawer fronts andbacks (W) and sides (X) to size from1/2" hardwood.Then rabbet the frontsand backs (Drawer Joinery Detail), and cutgrooves for the plywood bottoms (Y)before assembling the boxes.

The false fronts (Z) come next.They’re cut to size from 3/4"-thickpoplar. Then you can add the drawertrim (AA). It’s made using the tech-niques on page 45, mitered to length,and secured with glue and 1" brads.

Spacers Position the Slides — Beforeyou can install the drawer slides, you’llneed to “build out”the bench seat com-partments so that the slides fit flush withthe edges of the face-frame stiles.Spacers(BB) accomplish this (Drawer Slide Detail).Plane or rip each spacer to thickness,andthen mount it to the divider.

From there, you can install thedrawer slides, and then slip the drawerboxes into position. Finally, align andmount the false fronts.

Top It Off with a Valance — Thefinishing touch for the book nook is avalance. It spans between the bookcasesto tie the project together, and providesa place to mount lights and run wiring(Valance Assembly, page 51). Consistingof just two pieces, it’s one of the easiestparts of this project to build.

Construction begins by cutting thevalance bottom (CC) from 3/4" plywood.It starts out oversize. If you want to addlighting, bore holes for puck lights.

The extra-long valance face (DD)comes next. It gets a full-length grooveto receive the valance bottom, androundovers on the lower edge (ValanceMounting Detail, page 51).

Deep drawers add a lot of enclosedstorage for blankets, games, or just aboutanything. Like the rest of the project,they’re attractive yet very easy to build.

DRAWER JOINERY DETAIL

DRAWER SLIDE DETAIL

ADD DRAWERS & A VALANCE


Part Qty Size Material

BENCH SEAT

A BASE TOPS/BOTTOMS 4 #/4" x 19!/4" x 66!/8 " Birch Plywood

B BASE ENDS 4 #/4" x 19!/4" x 16!/4" Birch Plywood

C BASE DIVIDERS 4 #/4" x 19!/4" x 11!/4" Birch Plywood

D BASE CLEATS 2 #/4" x 2" x 65%/8" Poplar

E BASE BACKS 2 !/4" x 12!/4" x 67!/8" Hardboard

F SEAT PANELS 2 #/4" x 21#/4" x 67%/8" Birch Plywood

G SEAT EDGING 2 !/4" x #/4" x 144" Poplar

H FRAME TOP RAIL 1 #/4" x 2#/4" x 131!/4" Poplar

I FRAME BOTTOM RAIL 1 #/4" x 4#/4" x 131!/4" Poplar

J FRAME END STILES 2 #/4" x 2!/2" x 16!/4" Poplar

K FRAME INNER STILES 5 #/4" x 2!/2" x 8#/4" Poplar

BOOKCASES

L NARROW SIDES 2 #/4" x 12%/8" x 81" Birch Plywood

M WIDE SIDES 2 #/4" x 13!/4" x 81" Birch Plywood

N SHELVES/TOPS 12 #/4" x 12%/8" x 23#/4" Birch Plywood

O CASE CLEATS 4 #/4" x 2" x 23!/4" Poplar

P CASE BACKS 2 #/8" x 24!/2" x 81" Beaded Ply.

Q FRAME STILES 4 #/4" x 2!/2" x 81" Poplar

R FRAME TOP RAILS 2 #/4" x 5!/2" x 20" Poplar

Part Qty Size Material

S FRAME MIDDLE RAILS 2 #/4" x 2" x 20" Poplar

T FRAME BOTTOM RAILS 2 #/4" x 3" x 20" Poplar

U SHELF EDGING 6 !/2" x #/4" x 20" Poplar

V COVE MOLDING 1 #/4" x #/4" x 20' Pine

DRAWERS

W BOX FRONTS/BACKS 4 !/2" x 8!/2" x 19" Poplar

X BOX SIDES 4 !/2" x 8!/2" x 18!/2" Poplar

Y BOX BOTTOMS 4 !/4" x 18!/2" x 18!/2" Plywood

Z FALSE FRONTS 2 #/4" x 8%/8" x 19&/8" Poplar

AA FRONT TRIM 1 #/8" x !/2" x 90" Poplar

BB DRAWER SPACERS 4 #/4" x 1!/2" x 19!/4" Poplar

VALANCE/CROWN

CC VALANCE BOTTOM 1 #/4" x 11!/2" x 86" Birch Plywood

DD VALANCE FACE 1 #/4" x 5#/8" x 86" Poplar

EE VALANCE CLEATS 2 1!/2" x 1!/2" x 86" Pine

FF CROWN MOLDING 1 #/4" x 3!/2" x 20' Pine

MATERIAL LIST

• (64) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews• (66) #8 x 1!/2" Pocket Screws• (2 lbs.) 6d Finish Nails• (!/2 lb.) 4d Finish Nails

• (1 lb.) 1" Wire Brads• *(2) Pr. 18" Slides (#34580)• *(2) Puck Light Sets (#39748:2-Light; #39705: 3-Light)

After making the valance parts, paintthem, but don’t assemble them yet.

Cleats Hold the Valance — A pairof simple cleats (EE) secure the valance.After cutting them to length from 2x2s,screw one to the wall, and the other tothe bookcases (Valance Mounting Detail).

Finally, scribe the valance bottom andfront to fit, nail them together, and thenslip the assembly into place after routingall wires into the case (Photo, above right).

The Crowning Touch — To hideany gaps around the ceiling, wrap thevalance and the bookcases with crownmolding (FF). It just gets mitered to fit,and then nailed in place.

With the book nook complete, it’stime to kick back and relax — with agood book, of course.

VALANCE MOUNTING DETAIL

VALANCE ASSEMBLY


*Items available from Rockler.com; 800/279-4441

PM Centennial Furniture Suite: Anniversary BookcaseThe third in the POPULAR MECHANICS 100-year commemorative series.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY NEAL BARRETT

Published in the July 2002 issue.

A good bookcase is more than a set of shelves. It's a home for your most treasured volumes--a place to not only store and

protect, but, more importantly, to display. In fact, while it may be designed to hold books, it's also the perfect place to show off

photographs and collectibles.

The problem is, a bookcase with such a daunting responsibility won't make the grade if it's built of plywood or pine. What you

need is something that lives up to the objects it holds. With this in mind, we've created the third piece in our POPULAR

MECHANICS 100th anniversary furniture series. Like our dining table and chair, our bookcase is constructed of solid mahogany

and features details of pomele sapele veneer and wenge. The case's finished back allows it to be used either against a wall or in

the center of a room as a partition.

The exotic woods used in our commemorative line of furniture are not likely to be stocked by your local lumberyard. But, they are

available through mail-order sources. One such source is A&M Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle St. N., Box 32040, Cambridge,

Ontario, Canada N3H 5M2; www.forloversofwood.com.

MATERIALS LIST--BOOKCASE

Key No. Size and description (use)

A 2 1 x 11-1/2 x 59" mahogany (side)

B 1 1 x 4 x 28-1/2" mahogany (front top rail)

C 1 1 x 6 x 28-1/2" mahogany (front bottom rail)

D 1 1 x 4 x 28-1/2" mahogany (rear top rail)

E 1 1 x 6 x 28-1/2" mahogany (rear bottom rail)

F 2 1 x 3 x 50-1/2" mahogany (stile)

G 1 1 x 9-3/8 x 27" mahogany (bottom)

H 3 1 x 10-3/8 x 26-15/16" mahogany (shelf)

I 3 1/2 x 8 x 50" mahogany (rear panel)

J 4 1/2 x 1 x 2-1/2" wenge (foot)


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Use a spiral up-cutting bit to rout the mortises

in the case sides. Reach full depth in two or

three passes.

Rout the grooves for rear panels in the case

sides. The grooves extend between the

mortises for top and bottom rails.

Click to Enlarge K 1 3/16 x 3-1/2 x 22" wenge (panel core)

L 1 3/16 x 2 x 22" wenge (panel core)

M 2 3/16 x 5-1/2 x 49" wenge (panel core)

N as reqd. pomele sapele (panel veneer)

O 1 1 x 12-1/2 x 30" mahogany (top)

P 23 No. 20 joining plate

Q 8 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

R 12 shelf pin

Misc: Glue; wax paper; 120- and 220- and 320-grit sandpaper; 4/0

steel wool; Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish (Waterlox Coatings Corp.,

9808 Meech Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105); shelf pins, No. 30437,

available from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr.,

Medina, MN 55340.

Building The Case

Begin by cutting the case parts to finished dimension. Try to match the color and grain of the pieces for a uniform appearance.

Mark the locations of the front and back rails on each side. Note that the front rails are set back 1/8 in., while the back rails are

flush. Use a marking gauge and square to lay out the mortises for each joint.

Rout the rail mortises with a spiral up-cutting bit (Photo 1). Make two or three passes to reach the full mortise depth to avoid

breaking the bit or overloading the router. Then, rout the back-panel grooves (Photo 2).

Lay out the mortises in the edges of the top and bottom back rails. Maintain the router's previous edge-guide setting and readjust

the depth to cut these mortises. Clamp two rails together to provide a wider, more stable base for the router, but be sure to

register the edge guide against the outer face of the rail being cut. Readjust the bit depth again to cut the panel grooves in the

rails, and then rout the panel grooves in the back stiles. Square the mortises with a sharp chisel (Photo 3).

Use a dado blade in your table saw to cut the tenon cheeks on the rails and stiles (Photo 4). A stopblock clamped to the saw

table ensures that all tenons will be the same length. Since most dado blades leave small ridges on the surface of the stock, cut

the tenons about 1/32 in. heavy and pare them to size with a sharp chisel. Readjust the blade height to cut the shoulders at the

edges of the tenons (Photo 5).


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After routing the mortises in the back rails for

the stiles, use a sharp chisel to square the

ends of all mortises.

Use a dado blade in the table saw to cut the

tenons. A stopblock clamped to the table

ensures uniform tenon lengths.

Readjust the dado blade height and hold the

rails and stiles on edge to cut the tenon

shoulders.

Mark the locations of the joining-plate slots on the inner surfaces of the bottom rails and cut the slots (Photo 6). Adjust the joiner

fence so that the slots are set back the proper distance from the rail edge. Note that the front rail has four slots while the back rail

has three slots.

Next, lay out the slots on the edges and ends of the bottom shelf and cut them. Use a flat tabletop as a registration surface for

locating the slots. Be sure that you hold both the joiner and workpiece tight to the table when cutting. Use the same technique to

cut the slots in the top ends of the case sides as well as the top edges of front and back upper rails. Mark the case sides to

indicate the positions of the slots for the bottom shelf joint, then cut those slots (Photo 7). Clamp a guide block to the case side to

aid in locating the joiner for these cuts.

Make a template out of plywood or hardboard for the shelf-pin hole locations. Note that the edge-to-hole distance is different for

the front and back holes. Position the template on each case side and use a depth stop on the drill bit to bore the shelf-pin holes


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Mark the plate centers on the front and back

bottom rails and cut the slots. Use the joiner

fence to locate slot heights.

After cutting slots in shelf ends, cut matching

slots in case sides. A block clamped to the side

locates the joiner.

Make a template of the shelf-pin hole locations.

Then, use the template to position the holes in

the case sides.

(Photo 8). Install a chamfer bit in the router table and cut the 1/8-in. chamfer on the front edges and outside back edges of the

case sides. Then chamfer the front rails and front edges of the adjustable shelves. Install a straight bit in your router and cut the

rabbet around the edges of the back panels (Photo 9).

To make the wenge feet, first rip a strip of 1-in.-thick wenge to 2-1/2 in. wide. Adjust the table saw blade to 45° and chamfer the

end of the strip (Photo 10). Readjust the blade to 90° to cut a 1/2-in.-high foot off the strip. Repeat the procedure for the

remaining feet.

Bore and countersink screwholes in the case feet. Spread a bit of glue on each foot and fasten them to the bottom ends of the

sides with 1-1/2-in. No. 8 screws (Photo 11).


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Cut back panels to size from 1/2-in.-thick stock

and use a router to shape the rabbet around

the panel edges.

Cut a 45° chamfer at the end of a 1 x 2-1/2-in.

wenge blank. Set the blade to 90° and saw

across the end to make a foot.

Bore and countersink screwholes in each foot.

Apply glue and screw the feet to the case

sides.

Decorative Panels

Cut the wenge panel cores larger than finished dimension--they'll be trimmed to exact size after the veneer is glued in place. After

cutting the wenge stock to width, clamp a fence to your band saw and resaw the thin panel cores. Cut the pieces about 1/32 in.

thicker than indicated and plane them smooth.

To cut the veneer, first place a scrap plywood or particleboard panel on your worktable and lay a sheet of veneer over it. Lay out

the outlines of the veneer pieces to match the wenge cores. Place a straightedge guide over each cut line and hold a veneer saw

against the guide while lightly scoring the veneer (Photo 12). It will take several passes with the saw to cut through the veneer.

You can easily press the veneer onto both side panels at the same time. Use a roller to spread glue onto the wenge cores (Photo

13). Place a veneer sheet over each core, then cover each with wax paper.

Stack the two panels with edges and ends aligned and sandwich them between 3/4-in.-thick cauls. It's best to use double cauls


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Hold the veneer saw tight against a straight

guide and run it lightly over the veneer several

times to make the cut.

Use a foam roller to spread glue on the wenge

strips. Then, place a sheet of veneer on each

core panel.

Stack the side panels with wax paper between

each piece and plywood cauls on top and

bottom. Then apply clamps.

on both sides of the stack to evenly distribute the clamping pressure. Apply clamps, beginning at the center and working toward

both ends (Photo 14). Space the clamps 3 to 4 in. apart. Allow the panels to sit in the clamps for at least 2 hours. Then, remove

the clamps and let the panels dry overnight.

Follow the same procedure for the front-rail panels. Don't be alarmed if the panels show a slight warp. Usually, veneer is applied

to both sides of the core to avoid this. When the thin panels are glued and clamped to the bookcase, they'll flatten out.

After the glue has cured, cut the panels to finished size and chamfer the edges. Sand the panel edges and outer surfaces of the

front rails and sides to 220 grit. Mark the location of each panel on its case part.

Spread glue on the back of the top-rail panel, place it on the rail and clamp it in position (Photo 15). Use plenty of clamps to

ensure a good bond between the panel and rail. Repeat the procedure for bottom rail and side panels.


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Spread glue on the back of a panel and clamp

it to a rail. Use plenty of clamps to ensure a

good bond.

Spread glue in the joining-plate slots and on

mating edges and plates, then assemble the

bottom shelf and rails.

Assembly

Dry fit the front and back bottom rails to the bottom shelf (Photo 16). Then glue and clamp the assembly.

Slide the two back stiles over the edges of the center back panel. Next, apply glue to the mortise-and-tenon joints for the stiles

and upper and lower back rails, and assemble the parts (Photo 17). Take care to keep glue off the panel edges. Use long bar

clamps to pull the back rail/stile joints tight and let the glue set.

Slide the two remaining back panels into the rail and stile grooves. Then, apply glue to the joints for one of the case sides.

Assemble the side to the back subassembly and front rail, and apply clamps (Photo 18). When the glue is dry, add the other side.

Mark the locations of the joining-plate slots in the case top and cut the slots. Clamp a straightedge guide to the top to aid in

positioning the joiner.

Set the table saw blade to a 15° angle and bevel the case top edges (Photo 19). Use the miter gauge when trimming the ends,

and the fence when cutting the front and back edges. Sand the case and top to 220 grit, spread glue in the slots and on the

joining plates, and clamp the top in place.

Mark the locations of the shelf-pin notches in the bottom faces of the adjustable shelves. Use a router with an edge guide and

straight bit to cut the notches, and sand the shelves.

Finishing

We finished our case with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. Apply the finish liberally with a brush or rag and allow it to penetrate

for about 30 minutes. Use a lintfree rag to wipe off the excess, leaving only a damp surface. After overnight drying, lightly scuff the

surface with 320-grit paper and dust off. Repeat the application using the same method for two or three more coats. When the

last coat has cured, rub the surface with 4/0 steel wool followed by a soft cloth.


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Slide the center back panel between the two

stiles. Apply glue and join the stiles to the top

and bottom back rails.

Join one case side to the bottom/back

subassembly, then add the front top rail

followed by the second side.

Cut the case top to finished dimension. Reset

the blade to 15° and cut the beveled edge

around the top.


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8 1

Idon’t think I’ve ever built a perfect

reproduction. Even when I really

like an existing design, I need the piece

to be slightly larger, I prefer some tech-

nique over one used in the original

construction, or I don’t have the exact

materials. In any case, I think that one

of the more enjoyable aspects of wood-

working is trying new ideas and combi-

nations. So it is with this bookcase, and

twice over.

I based the design of this bookcase

on one made by David Fay, a furniture

maker in Oakland, California, who

based his design on a turn-of-the-

century Roycroft magazine pedestal.

David’s version strayed from the origi-

nal somewhat, and my design strays

from David’s. The results are three ver-

sions of the same bookcase, with an

overall look in common.

As is the case with much Arts and

Crafts furniture, the essential decorative

elements of all versions of this piece

are the construction details, including

the canted sides for stability and the

wedged, locking through-tenons. In his

interpretation of the original, David left

these elements intact, but he omitted

the molded crown and used cherry

(instead of fumed white oak) and con-

trasting panga panga wood wedges and

shelf supports.

My bookcase is identical to David’s,

but I used ash with zebrawood for the

wedges. I also made mine knockdown

for transporting.

TrapezoidalBookcase

8 2

THIS IS AN UPDATED, KNOCKDOWN VERSION of a Roycroft magazine stand held togetherwith through wedge tenons on the top and bottom shelves. The middle shelves are held inposition with unglued biscuits. The front edges of the sides are tapered 3 degrees, and thesides also lean toward each other at 3 degrees, giving the piece a trapezoidal shape.

Trapezoidal Knockdown Bookcase

Shelf

Through tenon

Biscuit

Angled andtapered sideWedge

T R A P E Z O I D A L B O O K C A S E 8 3

Sides and shelves are 3⁄4” thick.

91⁄2”

415⁄16”

1511⁄16”

141⁄2”

137⁄16”

121⁄2”

FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW

CUT LIST FORTRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE

Carcase and She lves

2 Sides 131⁄2 in. x 665⁄8 in. x 3⁄4 in.

1 Shelf 137⁄16 in. x 105⁄16 in. x 3⁄4 in.

1 Shelf 141⁄2 in. x 1015⁄16 in. x 3⁄4 in.

1 Shelf 1511⁄16 in. x 119⁄16 in. x 3⁄4 in.

1 Shelf 1615⁄16 in. x 125⁄16 in. x 3⁄4 in.

1 Top shelf 171⁄2 in. x 93⁄4 in. x 3⁄4 in.

1 Bottom shelf 231⁄2 in. x 131⁄4 in. x 3⁄4 in.

8 Wedges 33⁄8 in. x 3⁄4 in. x 3⁄4 in.

All parts are made of solid ash except for the zebrawood wedges.

9”

10”

143⁄4”

121⁄4”

111⁄8”

181⁄2”

1615⁄16”

131⁄2”

661⁄2”

Making the Sidesand Shelves

Gluing up the stock The smallest shelf is 93⁄4 in. deep, and the baseof the sides is 131⁄2 in. Unless you have accessto some wide ash, you’ll have to make theshelves and sides from two pieces.

8 4 T R A P E Z O I D A L B O O K C A S E

Building the Bookcase Step-by-Step

Full-Scale Drawings

Full-scale drawings may seem like overkill, but they are tremen-

dously useful, especially when the piece is complex.

An accurate full-scale drawing lets you take all your measure-

ments from it as you work. You don’t have to fiddle with cut lists

and calculate joints and details in your head. Just put a ruler on

the drawing, and you have your measurement.

They’re also helpful to visually evaluate the size and propor-

tions of the piece. If you want to adapt a design to a different

space or to hold some specific objects, the full-scale drawing

helps you see what it will look like. Scale drawings can tell you

only so much. Subtle changes that would be all but invisible in a

small drawing can be quite dramatic full size.

To transfer angles from the drawing to a workpiece or machine,

use a large protractor gauge, such as one made by CCKL Creator

(available from Lee Valley Tools). It is much larger than a standard

bevel gauge, and it allows a greater reach on the drawing and

greater accuracy. It also allows you to read the actual angle. This

makes resetting it a cinch, which isn’t necessarily the case with a

standard bevel gauge.

Photo A: The bookcase sides and shelves arewide (91⁄2 in. to 131⁄2 in.), and have to beglued up from two or more pieces.

THIS BOOKCASE would be a cinch tobuild except for the 3-degree trapezoidal

shape. All of the joinery must be cut at thisangle, often with special-made jigs. The bestplace to begin is with a full-sized drawing ofthe bookcase (front and side views) on agood-quality light-colored plywood. It will bean excellent and accurate reference through-out the whole building process (see “Full-Scale Drawings”).

Joinery

Cutting the mortisesThe mortises that are used to join the top andbottom shelves to the sides are the trickiestpart of this piece because they are angled andhave to be cut cleanly to within a very closetolerance—as does all the joinery in thispiece—because it all shows.

1. Make two router jigs, a right-handed oneand a left-handed one, to cut the four mortisesin the sides at a 3-degree angle (see “Jig forRouting Angled Mortises” on p. 86).2. Attach the alignment fence to the left-handed jig on the angled edge. It is now setup to cut the mortises on the front edge of theleft side. 3. Position the jig flush with the top and frontedges on the outside face of the left side.


Photo B: A circular saw and straightedge guide make cutting thetapers on the sides a cinch.

Tip: Standard bevelgauges should beset once and left setuntil you’ve finishedwith every similarangle. However, togive memory to abevel gauge, tracethe whole blade ofthe bevel gauge ona scrap of plywood.

1. If you can, resaw 8/4 stock for the sidesand book-match them. I couldn’t book-matchthe bookcase you see in the photos with theash I had, but it is certainly worth the trouble.2. If you use unmatched boards, choose thebest match of grain and color for the sides,and decide if you want the glue joint parallelwith the straight back or with the taperededge on the front. I chose parallel to the back,which seemed the least obvious.3. Glue up all the stock for the bookcaseshelves and sides at once (see photo A).

Beveling ends and tapering sides1. Cut the sides to length, but not at 90 degrees. The sides lean inward toward eachother at 3 degrees, so crosscut the top andbottom edges at 93 degrees to the floor (or 87 degrees, depending from which directionyou measure). This way when the bookcasesits on the floor, the bottom sits flat and thetop edges are horizontal. Make sure the edgesare parallel when finished.2. The front edge of the bookcase has a taper(though the back does not). Lay it out bymeasuring from the back edge of each side131⁄2 in. at the bottom and 91⁄2 in. at the top.Then draw a line between the marks.3. Cut the taper along the line. I use a Festocircular saw that has a straightedge guidethat’s great for this kind of cut. It leaves a verysmooth and straight edge (see photo B). Thetaper can also be rough-cut with a jigsaw andcleaned up with a straightedge and a router.4. Cut the top and bottom shelf blanks a littlewider than necessary and 31⁄2 in. longer thanthe outside width of the case at their loca-tions. This allows for the through tenons.5. Later, after these shelves are installed, markthe exact depth from the sides, then rip a 3-degree bevel on the front edge. Then rip theback edge at 90 degrees.


To cut the four mortises in the sides, you need two jigs with movable fences. The jigs areidentical except that they are mirror images of each other. One edge of each jig is angledlike the front edge of the bookcase, and the bottoms of each are shimmed at 3 degrees, thesame angle that the bookcase sides lean inward.

Jigs for Routing Angled Mortises

Jigs sit in the corners of theirrespective sides, and register offthe edges to locate the mortises.

Wedge holds jigup at 3 degrees

LEFT-SIDE JIG

RIGHT-SIDE JIG

11⁄2”

Alignment fence can bemoved from front toback edge of jig for cor-responding location onbookcase side.

Same angleas front edgeof bookcase

JIG IN USE

Hole in jig sized for a 30mm guidebushing and 3⁄8-in. straight bit to cuta correctly sized mortise.

Bookcase side

Jig

Wedge

11⁄16”

213⁄16”

97⁄16”

33⁄4”

55⁄16”

43⁄4”

4. Back up the cut on the underside withsome scrap wood. Don’t risk any tearout sinceeverything shows.5. Cut the upper mortises on the front edge ofthe left side with a plunge router. Advance thedepth of cut in very small increments.6. Slide the jig down the same side until it isflush with the bottom, and cut the bottommortise on the same side (see photo C). 7. Take the alignment fence off the jig andattach it to the opposite side of the jig.8. Move the jig to the back side and repeatthe process for the back mortises (seephoto D). 9. Square up the rounded mortise cornerswith a sharp chisel (see photo E).10. Repeat this process on the other side ofthe bookcase but with the other jig.


Photo D: The mortis-ing jig tilts the router3 degrees and cutsthe mortise walls atthe same angle.

Photo C: To cut the through mortises in the sides, you need a left-handed and aright-handed router jig.

Photo E: Square up the routed mortises with a sharp chisel.

Tip: Attach the jigto the workpiecewith double-sidedtape rather thanclamps becausethey can get in theway of the router.


Completed shelf

Waste

STEP 3: REMOVE CENTER PORTION

Miter gauge slot Sawblade

Workpiece at90 degrees Plywood

support box

Crosscut sled

Rip fence

Short fence

STEP 2: CUT SHOULDERS

Plywoodsupport box

Sawblade

Workpiece at 3 degrees

Crosscut sled

Stop block

Shelf

Rip fence

STEP 1: CUT CHEEKS

A support box attached to a crosscut sled makes a stable platform to cut tenons. A stop block lets you angle the workpiece.

Cut Sequence for Tenons

Jigsaw at 3 degrees

Cutting the tenons in thetop and bottom shelvesChoosing one method of tenoning overanother is usually based on experience andmachinery. I use my table saw because I’mcomfortable with this machine and it pro-duces a cut that requires the least amount ofcleanup. However, feel free to cut the tenonsas you like.

1. Attach a tall fence (actually a plywood box)to your table-saw crosscut sled at right anglesto the blade.2. Attach a stop block to the sled, in front ofand parallel to the fence. This stop block ispositioned to catch the edge of the workpiecethat, when leaned back against the fence, is at 3 degrees to the top of the saw (see “CutSequence for Tenons”). 3. Use the saw fence to position the cut, andraise the blade to a height that corresponds tothe length of the tenon.4. Push the sled across the blade to cut whatare essentially the cheeks of the tenons (seephoto F). 5. To cut the tenon shoulders, use the samejig, but with the stop block removed and thebox fence pivoted 3 degrees relative to thesawblade (see photo G).

6. Place a short fence against the rip fence toposition the cut and allow the cutoff to fallclear of the blade and fence.7. Hold the workpiece against the fence (90 degrees to the saw table and 3 degrees tothe blade). 8. With the sawblade just high enough toconnect with the previous cut, push the sledacross the blade, making the shoulder cuts.9. Cut out the center portion with a jigsaw,with the blade set at 3 degrees.


Photo G: To cut the outside tenon shoulders, repositionthe box fence 3 degrees to the blade.

Photo H: Clean up the jigsaw cut with a chisel.

Photo F: A simple table-saw jig positions the workpiece to cut theangled cheeks of the tenons.

10. Pare to the layout lines on each side with a sharp chisel, making sure to maintainthe 3-degree angle across the shoulder (seephoto H on p. 89).

Cutting the mortises in thetenons for the wedgesIn a perfect world, the wedges would be simpleto fit in the tenons, needing only accuratemeasurements and layout. In reality, there is a lot of fitting to get the wedges just right.Differences in the size of the mortise as littleas 1⁄32 in. can cause the height of the wedge tovary as much as 1⁄4 in.

1. Check the fit of the mortises and tenonsand make any adjustments necessary.2. Assemble the case with just the top and bot-tom two shelves and clamp it tightly together.3. Precisely mark the parts of the tenons thatprotrude past the sides. From these marks, layout the mortises in the tenons that will acceptthe wedges. 4. Lay out the mortises as wide as the wedgesand 3⁄4 in. deep. Though the wedges are only9⁄16 in. thick where they sit tight in the mortises,you don’t want them to bottom out in theirholes before they pull the shelf up tight.


WEDGED TENON DETAILS

FRONT VIEW

Photo I: A hollow-chisel mortiser with a 3⁄8-in.bit is fast and accurate for cutting the mor-tises for the wedge.

Side splayed3 degrees

Back edge, straight Front edge, tapered 3 degrees

3⁄4”

2”3⁄4”

21⁄2”

33⁄8”

11⁄2”

SIDE VIEW

Hole in tenon isslightly deeper thanwedge is thick.7⁄16”

9⁄16”

13⁄4”

5⁄8”

Tip: Remember that the outer wedge faceshave to be perpendicular to the shelf (which ishorizontal) to seat against the vertical outerwalls of the mortise.

5. Working on the top of the shelves, measureout 9⁄16 in. from the marks on the tenons,draw a line, then measure back 3⁄4 in. anddraw another line. 6. Measure out from the center of these lines3⁄8 in. in each direction and connect yourmarks. This gives you a 3⁄4-in. by 3⁄4-in. holefor each wedge (see “Wedged Tenon Details”). 7. Clamp a waste board under each tenon toprevent tearout on the opposite face when youcut the mortises. 8. Cut the mortises at 90 degrees using a 3⁄8-in. bit in a hollow-chisel mortiser. Nibbleaway at the edges of the holes until you reachthe lines (see photo I). A mallet and chiselwill do the work as well, though more slowly.9. When you’re finished cutting all the holes,clean them up with a small file.

Making and seating the wedgesMake the wedges only after the mortises arecut. It’s far easier to adjust the wedge to fit themortise than the other way around.

1. Rip and plane some 3⁄4-in.-square strips ofzebrawood and cut them into 33⁄8-in. lengths(make sure you cut a few extra).2. Make a small, simple carrier jig to hold thewedges when you cut the tapers on the band-saw (see “Bandsaw Jig for Tapering theWedges”). This jig ensures that all the wedgesare exactly the same size so they fit into theirholes in the same way.3. Cut the tapers with the jig on the bandsaw.4. Sand the cut edges of the wedges with apiece of sandpaper stuck to a flat block ofwood to fine-tune the fit (see photo J). Ifeverything prior to this has been done withcare, there will be only minor adjustments. 5. Label the wedges so you can return themto their respective tenons later.

Fitting the middle shelvesand cutting the biscuit slotsThe four center shelves are attached to thesides with loose (unglued) biscuits. Thesearen’t the easiest biscuit joints to cut becauseof the 3-degree angle of the sides.


Photo J: Sand the tapered faces of the wedges until they all sit atthe same height.

Jig, body has3-degree taper

Bandsawfence

Waste

Wedge blank

BANDSAW JIG FOR TAPERING THE WEDGES

1. Assemble the case, install the wedges, andmake sure everything is tight.2. Measure up from the bottom shelf, markingthe location of the top of each shelf on bothsides of the case.3. Measure horizontally across the bookcaseface with a straightedge and connect thesemarks. This gives you the width of each shelf(on the top face).4. Starting with shelf blanks slightly over-sized in width and length, crosscut one edgeof each on your table saw using the mitergauge set at 90 degrees and the blade tilted to 3 degrees.5. Creep up on the finished width bit by bit,checking the fit on the case after each cut.Each shelf should fit tight but not bulge thesides or affect the fit of the other shelves.6. Rip the front edges of the shelves at 3 degrees as well, sizing them 1⁄8 in. narrowerthan the depth of the case at each shelf loca-tion. When installed, the shelves will sit flushwith the back and be recessed 1⁄8 in. from thefront of the case.


BISCUIT SLOT CUTS FOR MIDDLE SHELVES

CUTTING SLOTS IN THE SHELF ENDS

Inside face

Plywood fence

Bookcase side

Fence set at 90 degrees

Biscuit slot

CUTTING SLOTS IN THE FACES OF THE SIDES

Shelf

Fence set at 3 degrees

Edge of shelf cut at 3 degreesBiscuit slot

How FarShould a Wedge

Wedge?

The wedges on my bookcase drop farther

down into their tenons than do the ones

on David Fay’s case. I made my wedges

a little smaller so they’d go deeper, with

the idea that they’d seat better. And since

this piece can come apart, I thought this

was important. I’m not sure if it makes

any difference, but it seemed to me that

it would. On the downside, I think the

higher wedges look a little bit better.

So there you go: Life is full of uncertainty

and compromise.

7. Cut biscuit slots in the edges of theshelves, two to an edge. Reference these slotsfrom the top of the shelves with the fence ofyour biscuit joiner set at 3 degrees (see“Biscuit Slot Cuts for Middle Shelves”). 8. Knock down the bookcase before you cutthe biscuit slots in the sides. 9. Draw layout lines across the sides at 90 degrees to the back, starting from themarks that indicate where the tops of theshelves intersect the sides. 10. Lay a piece of plywood along these linesto act as a fence for the biscuit joiner. 11. Cut the biscuit slots in the sides, position-ing the joiner against the fence and plungingit in at 90 degrees to the side.

Finishing and Final Assembly

Rounding the edges1. When you complete all the parts, do a final check for fit, fuss with anything that maystill be bugging you, and disassemble thebookcase. 2. Work all the edges of the mortises and theholes for the wedges with a file to make thepiece look soft and rounded. Round themuntil they have about a 1⁄8-in. radius on theiredges. 3. Slightly round all the edges of the tenons,wedges, shelves, and sides with sandpaper tothe same 1⁄8-in. radius.4. Sand everything to 180 grit.

Applying the finish At David Fay’s suggestion I finished the piecewith several coats of Formby’s low-gloss tungoil. I felt an oil finish was important for aknockdown piece. Frequent assembly and disassembly would easily damage a harder,lacquered finish, and the wedges would, in alllikelihood, scratch the finish around themwhen taken in and out. Oil finishes wear in

these ways much better than lacquer finishesand are easily repaired when they dry out orbecome worn.

With this bookcase, final assembly is,frankly, optional. As a knockdown bookcase,it goes together and comes apart easily. Andafter you test-fit everything and finish all thepieces, the first thing you may want to do isknock it down to take it somewhere (seephoto K).


Photo K: The entire bookcase knocks down into a small pile of flat,small pieces—very handy for transportation.

Bookends

BookendsLessons:

• Applies to Wolf Achievement 5e – Tools for Fixing and Building

• Practice sawing, driving nails, finishing

• Something useful, could be used as a gift, or …

• Easy: appropriate for Wolf, Bear, or Weblos

Tools:

• Saw (Japanese style pullsaw recommended)

• Ruler

• A square (triangular “rafter square” is recommended)

• Hammer (an 8 oz claw hammer is recommended)

• Crayons, stencils (if desired)

Materials:

• 12 inch long piece of 1 x 6 inch pine (actual dimensions are ¾ x 5½ inch)

• ¼ inch thick luan plywood or hardboard; enough for two 3½ x 5½ inch pieces

• brad nails, 1 to 1½ inch long.

• glue (yellow carpenter’s glue is recommended).

• Shellac (such as Zinsser “Bull’s Eye”; a smallamount), brush, and denatured alcohol (for cleanup)

Procedure:

1. Cut two side pieces, each 5½ inches long, from the pine board. You should end up with two 5½ inch squares.

• Measure with the ruler, then use the rafter square to draw the line across the board.

2. Cut two 3½ x 5½ inch bases from the luan plywood or hardboard (use the ruler & rafter square again!).

Bookends

Bookends

Procedure:

3. Create a design using crayons, on one side of each pine square.

• Orient the wood so that the grain runs side to side (sawn edges on the sides)! This will provide a better glue joint at the bottom of the pine square, to attach the base.

• In the example shown, a boy’s initial was stenciled on with crayon.

• If you want to use something other than crayon, experiment first, to see whether it bleeds into the wood, or if it is smeared when finish is applied.

3

Bookends

Procedure:

4. Apply glue to the bottom of one pine square

5. Use 4 brad nails to attach the base to the side.

5

5

4

Bookends

Procedure:

6. Use a brush to apply shellac to the pine sides.

• Shellac will seal the wood and crayon.

• Shellac is alcohol based, and may smear some types of ink.

• Shellac dries quickly, so apply a thin coat, don’t brush more than necessary, and apply a 2nd coat shellac after 15 – 20 minutes. Allow to dry overnight.

5

5

4

6

free bookcase plans 2010

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