folders used in sewing machines. belong to the category of work aids… family of folders…
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FOLDERS USED IN
SEWING MACHINES
Belong to the category of WORK AIDS…
Family of FOLDERS…
Additional devices that can be added to basic sewing machines
USESTo improve productivityImprove or maintain quality standardsReduce training time of operatorReduce fatigue of operator
COMMON TYPES includeGuidesSpecialized presser feetStitching jigFoldersBinders
What are WORK AIDS?
Understanding FOLDERS…
Generally used in situations where fabric must be folded prior tosewing
Can be used for folds ranging from simple to complex
Mostly separate devices attached to machine
Enable Great increase in
productivity High standard of control
over quality of finish obtained
Foldersfor
SHIRTS
SHOULDER and
YOKE joining
1
POCKEThemming
2
CUFF HEMMINGLong sleeve
3 CUFF HEMMINGShort sleeve
4
PLEAT gauges
5
ClosingSIDE
SEAMS
6SLEEVE
PLACKET
7
SHOULDER and YOKE joining…
YOKING FOLDER Turns down the top ply and joins it to
two additional ply The bottom ply is then turned back to
form the yoke Special foot is needed
SHOULDER JOINING FOLDER
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar
Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead
POCKET hemming…
Used to hem the top of pockets
CUFF hemming (short sleeve)…
DOWNTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER
UPTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER
Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirtsMay be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines Stripes and plaids are easily matchedPiping and other types of trim may also be added
Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts Must be used on lockstitch machines
CUFF hemming (long sleeve)…
UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER
Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces
Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods
DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER
Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls
Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods
Closing SIDE SEAM…
Lap seam folders are usedFolder with separate width adjustment are availableCan also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to
pass through freely
LAP SEAM FOLDER
SLEEVE PLACKET…
Used to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening.
Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve
FoldersFor
JEANS
BELTLOOPS
1
CloseSIDE
SEAMS
2
CloseINSEAMS
3
SetZIPPERS
4
BOTTOMLEG
hemming
5
JoinRISERSEAM
6
BELT LOOPS…
Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch
machines from short strips of material
For blind stitch machines (overlap style)
Close SIDE SEAMS…
Flat Bed Style Feed Off The Arm Style
Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity
Close INSEAMS…
LAP SEAM FOLDER WITH PIPING
Used to attach ready made trim or piping to leg seam
IMITATION LAP SEAMProduces an Imitation Lap Seam for decorative effects
Set ZIPPERS…
Used to attach and topstitch left zipper fly on jeans and corduroys
Top and bottom scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin
Available for all lockstitch, needle feed and compound feed machines
FLY FRONT FOLDER
Turns the lining down and stitches it to the fly in one operation
Top Scroll and Bottom Guide adjustable
BOTTOM LEG hemming…
Used to hem bottom legs of dungarees and similar garments Has width adjustment and spring action for seams
Join RISER SEAM…
Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
Available with spring front to allow seam clearanceCan be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity
FLAT BED STYLE
FEED OF THE ARM STYLE
coveredELASTIC
ATTACHMENT
ZIPPER attachment
forMulti needle machines
singleTURN
HEMMER
MultipleNEEDLE
BANDING
BARRELHEMMERS
(roll hemmers)
Covered ELASTIC ATTACHMENT…
Designed for use with covered webbing in making a shirred waistband on sportswear, pants
It folds banding around the stretched webbing and simultaneously applies it to the garment
Single turn HEMMER…
Single turn (Raw Edge) hemmers
BARREL HEMMERS ( roll hemmers)…
•Excellent for continuous Hemming on automatic sewing operations
•Made for most two needle machines
ZIPPER attachment for multi-needle machines…
Designed to give greater production, with greater uniformity, from a less skilled operator
OPERATIONThe individual zipper is pushed through the guide to the foot The garment parts are then placed in the folders and the whole section is sewn at one time
Multiple needle BANDING…
•Designed for banding skirts, shorts, etc.
•Made with an adjustable gauges so that the amount of 'bite' on the garment can be varied