features schedule 2012 - drapers · karen fischer – commercial manager t 020 7728 3551Œ e...

www.drapersonline.com m.drapersonline.com

Features Schedule 2012Drapers is the voice of the fashion industry. To mark 125 years of fashion reporting, we have given ourselves a makeover. Relaunched with a brand new design, a wider format, heavier paper stock and a stronger editorial format, the magazine is more indispensable than ever, and now contains additional news analysis, a new weekly fashion section and special monthly reports. The website has also been redesigned with a brand new look and new functionality – check it out at drapersonline.com.

Drapers can provide brands and suppliers with unparalleled penetration into your target market via a multi-platform approach which includes the weekly magazine with an average net circulation of 9,3841, drapersonline.com reaching over 71,100 unique users per month2, m.drapersonline.com – our fully optimised mobile site generating over 52,700 hits per month2, plus three exclusive annual industry awards, and bespoke events.

With over 50% of our audience comprising the MDs, CEOs, Owner/Proprietors and Managers of UK fashion businesses3, Drapers can provide access to the most influential people in the industry.

Drapers can provide a whole range of media solutions to meet your marketing objectives. Please get in touch to discuss how we can work with you to create a tailored package suitable to your business.

ContactMandy Cluskey – Group Commercial Director T 020 7728 3586 E [email protected] Davies – Commercial Director T 020 7728 3553 E [email protected] Fischer – Commercial Manager T 020 7728 3551 E [email protected] Jones-Collins – Advertising Manager T 020 7728 4637 E [email protected] Potucek – Account Manager T 020 7728 3552 E [email protected] Soni – Account Manager T 020 7728 3587 E [email protected] Gee – Account Manager E [email protected] Lambert – Print Production T 020 7728 4110 E [email protected]

1 ABC Jul’10 – Jun’11 2 Webtrends Sep’11–Feb’12 3 Readership Survey Sept ’09

Regular FeaturesDrapers regular features include:

� Close up We bring you in-depth interviews with the biggest names in the fashion world. Leading business people, influential designers and retail pioneers all come under our scrutiny.

� Shopwatch Our industry expert John Ryan reviews the newest shops, the best shops, sometimes the strangest shops – they all come under the spotlight as we examine the most influential fashion stores.

� E-Comm Our online content editor Keely Stocker brings you up to speed with the latest in the online world of retailing.

� Directions Drapers’ new fashion section, a weekly edit of the key stories, trends, products and people a� ecting the fashion business. Our Directions section includes:

� The Buzz All the fashion news you need to know and a heads up on new brand and product launches in-store and online.

� Style Council A new feature, we bring a panel of four influential figures from the industry together and ask them one killer question.

� Brandwatch Bringing you the globes freshest labels, Drapers unveils the facts behind the biggest, best and newest fashion brands you may, or may not, have heard of.

� This Fashion Life A sideways look at lives in fashion, Drapers casts a spotlight on an interesting character from the fashion business. Get to know someone new each week as Drapers interviews characters from the entire fashion spectrum.

� Fashion Index Our new weekly market information data section, giving you a barometer of what trading is like in the UK and globally.

� Indie Index Located in our Fashion Index section, Indie Index is Drapers’ essential and unique weekly guide to what is selling and happening in the world of fashion independents.

� Careers Drapers interviews those with sought-after jobs in fashion and tells you how to get jobs like theirs.

www.drapersonline.com m.drapersonline.com

For more information about any of the features listed above, or to find out how to advertise alongside these features please call Drapers on 020 7728 3551

Features Schedule 2012

APRIL

7 Womenswear: High Street Hit or Miss: Drapers reports on which womenswear retailers are rocking the high street and which are trundling alongBusiness Basics: Finance – supporting independent fashion retailers Indie Index: Kidswear

14 Menswear High Street Hit or Miss: We look at the menswear retailers and judge who is doing it bestIndie Index: Young Fashion

21 Drapers In-Depth: International SpecialFootwear High Street Hit or Miss: Footwear retailers are judged on who is providing the best product and service on the high streetIndie Index: Contemporary

28 Womenswear: Our look at the fast fashion marketIndie Index: Mainstream

MAY

5 Drapers In-Depth: Occasionwear – a 2-page special feature taking a look at what the mother of the bride will be wearing this seasonFootwear and Accessories Award Winners’ Brochure: Find out who won one of these prestigious awardsIndie Index: Occasionwear

12 The Drapers Fashion Awards: This edition will launch the ‘Oscars’ of the industryBusiness Basics: PropertyIndie Index: Lingerie

19 Womenswear & Menswear: The ‘Seasonless’ IndustryIndie Index: Mainstream Footwear

26 Exhibitions, Show Calendar: This comprehensive exhibitions list is the essential guide to planning your buying trips for the coming season The PayPal Etail Awards: A celebration for retail businesses of all sizes excelling onlineSupply Chain: DeliveryIndie Index: Contemporary Footwear

JUNE

2 Season’s Preview Supplement, Womenswear, Menswear, Streetwear: We forecast what looks you will see at the coming fashion exhibitions and what you should look out for in spring ‘13 Indie Index: Premium

9 125th Birthday Special: We mark the 125th anniversary of Drapers with a special supplement celebrating 125 years of the fashion industry Indie Index: Mainstream

16 Drapers In-Depth: Graduate Fashion Week – we look at the future of the industryIndie Index: Contemporary

23 Kidswear, Bubble Show: Trends from the kidswear show Indie Index: Young Fashion

30 Menswear, Pitti Uomo Show: Drapers reports from the Florence show The Drapers Multichannel Magazine: Our second report focused on multi-channel shoppingDrapers In-Depth: Customer Insight ReportIndie Index: Mainstream Footwear

Mary Portas insists the time is right for retailers, the Government and consumers to work together and

create a new fashion manufacturing base in the UK

Words by caroline

nodder

Photography by Georgia Khun

CLOSE-UP I MARY PORTAS

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marks & Spencer_ Paris

If you’d visited a French M&S back in the day, it would have been a vision of relative uniformity. To its credit, this has changed. Now, fake brick walls, photo-portrait graphics and mannequin groupings prevent monotony. It is

a measure of the importance attached to lingerie in this market that the basement is devoted to it. Here are pictures of women wearing the stock and mannequins reclining on shelves and chaises longues. Upstairs a level it’s pretty straightforward

to pick out the diff erent brands, with individual VM treatments for Per Una, Indigo and suchlike. This is pleasant but unsurprising VM and may fi t with the over-50s profi le of the customers in-store on the day of visiting.

How about this for a strategy? Move into a new market overseas, open a number of stores, then when things go bad, close them. When things

improve, move in again and start opening stores afresh once more. It’s the kind of vacillation that would have business school profs reaching for the case study book labelled ‘How not to do it’.

That’s pretty much the story of Marks & Spencer in France. Since last year it’s been back in Paris, with a store on the Champs-Élysées. The choice of this location says much about the state of play as regards M&S’s second coming in France. This is the most expensive thoroughfare in Europe on which to set up a shop. It should come as little surprise, therefore, that the three-fl oor space it occupies falls into the small but beautifully formed category – or that’s probably the way management views this development.

The concept seems to be to get as much as possible into the available space without making the enterprise feel crowded. Practically, this means womenswear on all three fl oors and a food hall on ground. At the heart of the store is a circular staircase, which makes a small space feel smaller. That said, it is used to good eff ect as a unifying feature, making a virtue of (presumed) architectural necessity. Nonetheless, it’s hard not to feel a mite constrained.

JOHn RYAnhas a background

in fashion buying. As a journalist, he has

covered the sector for more than a decade

SHOPWATCH

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04 PRODUCT A lot of prints across the board, spring pastels and sorbets were on show. A mild carp might be that, with the exception of the Indigo area, much of it looked as if it could have been merchandised in any of the M&S brand areas across the shop – meaning product

differentiation may still have some way to go before the segmentation that is one of its declared aims is a reality. There is also the matter of footwear. Women like shoes and this category looked to be in short supply in the Champs-Élysées store.

03 SERVICE

Charming, helpful and (usefully) almost bilingual. There were plenty of staff on the floor and though most were busy tidying and restocking, they were alert to the needs of the many shoppers who were on each floor – it was lunchtime. A visit of head office types seemed to be in progress, but even management were at pains to help customers and to make more of the “boutique virtuelle”. The M&S proposition was founded on quality and service; on the Champs-Élysées, it seems to live up to this reputation.

05 COmPETITIOn The thing about the Champs-Élysées is that, for the most part, it is about luxury brands, H&M notwithstanding. This means that for such a long and important street, competition for the M&S offer is scarce. The mid-market pricing and range of styles means that shopping this

store needn’t mean a big dent in the bank balance. There will still be money left over to buy a little something from the Louis Vuitton emporium along the street. M&S may win in this location by default as there is little to compete with it in fashion’s mid-market middle ground.

06 VERDICT AN UPTOWN WiNNer

M&S’s reappearance in Paris was always going to have its critics, but location and execution emphasise both the retailer’s difference from others and its Britishness. A small shop is presented so it can be most things to most women. Men are not catered for (other than online), but most of the males in the store seemed happy making their way to the food hall to buy Percy Pigs and other English delicacies. This is the first of several stores planned to open in Paris and it looks a fair start, though a little more wow would not have gone amiss.

Room for

improvement

01

This is the Champs-Élysées – possibly the city’s most high-profile shopping street. M&S would do well to inject a little more glamour into the store.

02 There is surely a good reason for the omission of menswear, but French males need clothes too and when the next store is opened it would be useful for

them to feel included.

03

More needs to be done with the shopfront. The Champs-Élysées is home to high retail drama but you could easily walk past this

shop without noticing it.

THE BASICS ADDRESS 100 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris TOTAL STORES IN FRANCE One (more planned) BRANDS in-house STORE DESIgN in-house

To see more pictures from M&S on Champs- Élysées, visit www.drapersonline.com/news/shopwatch

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I buy from Amazon. It is a quick, informative, e� cient and e� ective way to get essential shopping done. But it’s cold and not a sexy experience, which stops me buying fashion from the site.

Amazon saves all my credit card details so I can choose at the checkout who’s going to get hit – me, the business or my husband. I think I have about 10 credit cards saved on Amazon, along with 15 to 20 shipping addresses so I can purchase gifts and have them shipped direct to the recipient with a card and message too. More online retailers should do this and it’s something we introduced on www.donnaida.com.

I love the Super Saver Delivery option on Amazon (which is free!). I rarely pay for shipping unless it’s really urgent, but even on the two to three-day Super Saver the item comes pretty much straight away. I’m my perfect target customer, so www.donnaida.com is introducing

I’ve been a big Amazon.co.uk fan for a long time. My sister introduced Amazon to me as the place to buy your books about

10 years ago. She accompanied the information with, ‘You haven’t heard of Amazon?!’ like I’d been living under a rock. Which I clearly had.

I jumped on the bandwagon for books and CDs straight away and over the years I’ve expanded my custom with them as they’ve expanded their o� ering. Anything that is a ‘product’ in my eyes, ie aside from clothing and luxury items,

DONNA IDAOwner of four-store

women’s denim indie Donna Ida

ENGAGEMENT

FACEBOOK USERS

free shipping on all orders (excluding Sale and international) in May. Our customers should be rewarded with free shipping – I want their lives to be as easy as possible, because that’s how I like it.

I’ve only ever had one bad experience with Amazon – a late package. It was for a gift, so it was urgent. Amazon responded quickly and e� ciently to every email and the goods � nally arrived – and in time for the party.

The secret of Amazon’s success for me is its enormous o� er, the free shipping option, the massive ebook selection, and the saved credit card details – this is a big one. I don’t want to feel like I’m spending money. Because Amazon saves my details, all I’m doing is purchasing items I need and being e� cient. I don’t even have to add my card security code. A few clicks and I’m there. They’re killing me with kindness and I’m responding like a mewing kitten. I’m loyal to the core.

Webwatch_ Amazon.co.uk

Amazon’s huge o� er makes it a one-stop-shop for a wide

variety of products

However, Donna Ida complains the site is ‘cold and not sexy’, making it an unattractive place to buy fashion from

Multiple card saving options make the checkout process a simple experience

DO YOU AGREE?TELL US

WHAT YOU THINK OF

AMAZON.CO.UK BY VISITING OUR

WEBSITE ATwww.drapersonline.com/

in-business

E-COMM

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Close-Up Shopwatch E-Comm



You’re opening a new Wolf & Badger store on Dover Street in Mayfair, London, on April 12. Tell us about it. It will be a 2,000 sq ft store selling some of our favourite designers that have passed through our Notting Hill boutique. It will also

showcase and sell some other cool up-and-coming British luxury brands that we haven’t

previously worked with, but who we greatly admire. It will include a gallery

space which we rent out to artists, gallerists, pop-up

shops or for events.

� Why Dover Street? We’ve been looking for the ideal location for our second London boutique for over a year and this is the best street in London for fashion-forward retailers. We love Dover Street and feel that for the cutting-edge product we sell it is the ideal location. It also happens to be in an 18th-century Mayfair townhouse and the property itself is amazing.� What’s next? We are super-busy with our new store and our � rst overseas store in Montenegro, which opened last summer. We’ve also been working hard on our ecommerce site which has recently been revamped and continue to look at other overseas locations, particularly in the Middle East and Asia.� Wolf & Badger is known for supporting new brands – why did you decide to do this? We always felt that new designers and emerging brands were not fully appreciated by the traditional big retailers, who more often than not focused too heavily on established names. This situation was compounded by the recession. Other countries have many more initiatives to support their homegrown talent than the UK so we set about trying to promote and sell British brands in our own small way. � Who is your tip for the future?Serdar Uzuntas, an amazing menswear designer we are stocking in our new Dover Street store and online.� Where did the name Wolf & Badger come from? We used to have a pet rabbit and one day we woke up to � nd the cage had been broken into and the rabbit eaten. As kids we speculated that it was either a wolf or a badger that did it. Years later we named our store after the culprits. It was probably a fox.� How is it working with your brother (who co-founded Wolf & Badger)? It’s good working with George as we have very di� erent interests and skills; as such, we focus on di� erent areas of the business. The worst work-related � ght was probably over a pair of cu� inks we both wanted. � How do you relax? Shopping for antiques, walking Mojo my Parson Russell Terrier, sewing, watching Geordie Shore, designing jewellery.� What would we find on your o ice iPod? If I had my way it would be Bon Jovi, but the girls in the o� ce only let me listen to one 1980s rock song a day.� What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? ‘Just do it’ – Nike.

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‘We always felt that new designers weren’t fully appreciated by the traditional big retailers’

THIS FASHION LIFE I DIRECTIONS

Henry GrahamWolf & Badger’s co-founder tells GRAEME MORAN why the fashion-forward indie chose Mayfair for its second store

This Fashion Life

BRANDWATCH I DIRECTIONS

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A t the Topman-sponsored MAN show during February’s London Fashion Week, there was one name that stood out – or more specifically two – Agi &

Sam, with buyers buzzing around this up-and-coming brand’s autumn 12 catwalk debut.

“Agi & Sam first caught our eye with its daring and fun use of colour and print,” says Lulu Kennedy, founder of Fashion East, which supports new talent and is part of the MAN

Agi & Saminitiative. “[For autumn 12] they refined the palette and silhouette while sticking to their signature prints.”

Designer Christopher Raeburn is also a fan: “What I like is its fearless approach to menswear, particularly with print. Its professionalism in terms of make quality, presentation and marketing should put it in good stead.”

Established in 2010 by Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton, the label demands attention thanks to its fresh take on traditional menswear. “The idea was to produce a brand that was entirely print-based and contained elements of humour and light-heartedness,” says Cotton, “because a lot of people in fashion take it so seriously.”

The print-based menswear brand has grown up for autumn 12, says GrAeme morAn

While print still brings the spark of fun, there is a slicker and more considered edge this season that is altogether more commercial. The cut is sharper, the palette more considered, and all with a more premium spin.

“I think we grew up a lot,” says Cotton. “Autumn 12 was so hard. Me and Agi didn’t speak for a month while we were making it. But hopefully it paid off.”

The facts suggest it has. The autumn 12 sales book was still open when Drapers went to press but sales have increased by more than 200% and stockist numbers doubled. As one buyer joked at LFW: “The boys became men at the MAN show.”

THE BASICS Wholesale prices £30 to £500

Website www.agiandsam.com

telephone 07825 285982

Key pieces include smart sb and db suits, printed shirts and sleek rollnecks layered under excellent oversized outerwear

bespoke prints created in-house include painterly

cockerels, intricate tessellations and signature

trompe-l’oeil linton tweeds

agi & sam uses Greenpac fabrics, which are made from recycled plastic bottles, throughout the collection

Brandwatch

want to be part of the style council? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

Sebastian ManesIn a wider context prints will be key; in particular Peter Pilotto (pictured) and Mary Katrantzou’s printed padded jackets are interesting. In our Designer Galleries the two main colours are red and deep blue, seen at Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester. We are also making a statement with hats, giving us a VM focus.

What are your top trends for autumn 12?

sally Morgan Owner of young

fashion independent Kiwi Boutique in

Guisborough

Luisa De Paula We’ve highlighted peplums, military, the trophy jumper, leather and opulence among others, but if I had to pick two it would be leather and trophy jumpers. We’ve bought leather across items, all over and in details. There’s a lot of variety in knitwear, with oversized, slogans and motifs; the visual element of the trophy jumper (Balmain, pictured), works very well for online.

Sally Morgan My biggest spend has been on collarless jackets, while I can stand out from the high street on quality, design and point of difference with 3D textured knits with metallic accents. Finally, ‘K-Middy’ is our inspiration for autumn. She channels trends enough to stay up to date while remaining true to her style.

Pamela Shiffer Tailored tweed coats in statement colours and riding-style jackets in herringbone fabrics top my list, as do Burberry-inspired check quilted jackets. Lace (Alphalace, pictured) will no longer be strictly eveningwear, becoming easy to wear on a day-to-day basis. Introducing new textures is key to keeping customers and staff excited.

DIRECTIONS I the style council

This week’s panel

sebastian Manes Buying and

merchandising director at Selfridges

luisa de paulaBuying director

at premium etailerMy-Wardrobe.com

paMela shiffer Founder of the

eponymous London womenswear indie

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The Style Council

THE BUZZ

Welcome to Directions, Drapers’ new fashion section. This is your weekly edit of the key stories, trends, products and people a� ecting the fashion business

now. Whether unearthing the hot new brands to stock, bringing you the trends the big names are backing or breaking the news about the competition and beyond, Directions has all the practical and inspirational information to help you work smarter.

Directions opens with This Week’s Hero, the single most important product, person, trend or trade show over the past seven days. Next up The Buzz, an inspiring melting pot of all the news you need to know and a heads-up on new brand and product launches in-store and online. Led by the Fashion Foreword, a new comment column in which we’ll be tackling issues that a� ect you and the industry as a whole, The Buzz is packed with quick snippets to keep you up to speed.

Style Council is a new feature where we bring together some of the industry’s most in� uential � gures and ask them one killer question each week, giving you insight into what they’re backing now and for the future. Brandwatch will continue to bring you the globe’s freshest labels while This Fashion Life casts a spotlight on an interesting character from within the fashion business – get to know someone new with us each week.

Our revamped fashion features will still bring you the essential info from the trade shows, catwalks and the high street, arming you with all you need to make the right business calls. Online we will continue to keep things interesting with image galleries, videos and our new blog, which will keep you inspired and in the loop.

We hope you like what you see – our metaphorical door is always open for feedback, story leads, proposals or even just for a chat.

Fashion director / [email protected] / @Ian_W_Wright

And now for something completely di� erent

/ Fashion foreword / ON THE RADAR — Religion footwear

Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans has revealed that from autumn 12 its entire denim collection will be made from 100% certi� ed organically grown cotton.

This includes all jean � ts, denim shirts and jackets, while all pocket linings, rivets and buttons across the o� er will also come from organic raw materials.

Since the brand was founded in 2001 it has aimed to produce fully organic denim collections, with 43% of the spring 12 range produced from organic cottons.

Your fridge might be � lled with organic buys, and now your stockroom can be too.

Nudie Jeans goes totally organic

WATERFALL SKIRTSWhether gently draped or a high-low

hem, the waterfall skirt was a key spring 12 trend spotted at US music and � lm

festival SXSW. Tap up short-order brands Finders Keepers and Rare for a quick � x.

Young fashion brand Religion has launched its first men’s footwear collection for autumn 12, comprising 20 casual and formal options to sit alongside its clothing. Standout styles include sporty hi-top leather sneakers featuring hiking-style D-ring lacing, casual canvas lace-ups and chunky-soled boots boasting contrast leather and suede panels, all in the brand’s signature palette of black, white and grey, with pops of deep red.

HIT OR MISSLook out for our feature on womenswear’s high street

big hitters next week

Don’t forget!This week

/ Trendwatch /

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ON THE BLOGCheck out the fashion

team’s new blog, Unzippedwww.drapersonline.com/unzipped

TweetsYoung fashion

menswear brand Lyle & Scott

has appointed British menswear designer Carolyn Massey as head

of design@David_M_Watts

So, if you’ve seen #HungerGames let me know if

they’re wearing @StudioRaeburn

because we didn’t know anything

about it!@StudioRaeburn

Can someone go and buy Will I Am a varsity jacket. He’s

in dire need.@henryholland

O� to London. Talking shop with

@jordanjmcdowell & buying our final AW12 selections

@JoBWDenim

Harold Tillman & @alexa_chung

o� icially open the British Designers

Collective: “exciting talents

whose collections are coveted worldwide”

@BFC

Cos gets shirtyCos has marked its fifth birthday with a

capsule collection of white shirts, re-releases of the brand’s favourite five men’s and women’s styles. The shirts

(pictured) have been produced in limited runs and have the usual minimal styling.

The collection hits stores on April 9.www.cosstores.com

Lanvin lovin’Coffee table looking a bit sparse? Love

Lanvin? Got €320 (£267) to spare? Handy then that Alber Elbaz and co-authors

Pascal Dangin and Shelly Verthime have published a limited-edition book

cataloguing the Belgian designer’s work at the Parisian fashion house.

www.lanvin.com

Sweeney’s feminine sideOliver Sweeney is stepping out into women’s footwear for autumn 12.

Offered at wholesale and retail for the first time in more than 20 years, the range will reflect the footwear label’s signature style.

www.oliversweeney.com

Point of review“It’s a bit like TripAdvisor for fashion,” says

stylist Lizzi Zita of her new site, My Fashion Review. Users are able to share their thoughts on fit, quality, finish and

value for money of a particular garment.myfashionreview.co.uk

News in

Brief

Womenswear designer CC Kuo scooped � rst prize in a design talent competition run by website Lookk.com. Designer Manish Arora and Style Bubble blogger Susie Lau helped judge. Lau said it was “the most focused, and had the most potential. You can see it on the rails already”.

Three of the best

FIT AND FLARE DRESSESFrom left: Dahlia Fashion, £27, contact 020 8968 0333; Goldie London, £24.80,

contact 020 7404 8748; Yumi £16, contact 020 8963 8691. Bold colour, print and cutaway details will ensure these styles make a summer statement. All are in stock now.

25,400+ Our current Twitter followers

Follow @Drapers

The Twitterview@deryanetadd, The Dressing Room

Out of everything you saw for autumn 12, what one piece are you most excited about hitting stores?

I can’t wait for the new @Becksöndergaard collection to hit

the shopfloor – amazing styles, particularly the oversized scarf

Print is CC Kuo’s signature and for spring 12 her long, striped shirt dresses stood out. View the autumn 12 lookbook at www.cckuo.comWholesale prices range from £70 to £230. Enquiries: 020 8180 5648

Fashion is very important. It is life-enhancing and, like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing well. Vivienne Westwood

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_ Ian Wright

Wholesale prices range from £20 to £48. Enquiries: 020 7092 9802

The Buzz

DIRECTIONSPointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

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Zigzag stitched reverse boat demarcation numbers are the strongest sign of the jacket’s nautical pedigree

On their own they’re two of the UK’s biggest fashion success stories but

together their powers are on a whole new level. The Barbour and

Paul Smith Jeans Land & Sea collaboration centres around Barbour’s workwear history,

reworking it for a new, tightly edited range of menswear and

womenswear. Say ‘ahoy there’ to one of autumn 12’s key

collaborations.

Wholesale price: £184.81Contact: 0800 009988

www.barbour.com

THESEAFARER

JACKET

The 8oz beeswax cotton is almost sail-like and therefore robust enough to stand up to the worst elements

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This week’s hero

Directions

JULY

7 Drapers In-Depth: Christmas Special – with Christmas providing retailers with your highest sales peak, we bring you a comprehensive supplement on how to maximise sales; from logistics and multi-channelling to in-season party productMenswear, Milan: Men’s fashion, we pick out the best from the catwalks Menswear, Paris: This time it’s the best from the Parisian catwalks

14 Kidswear, Pitti Bimbo: A report from the Florence kidswear show Indie Index: Contemporary FootwearMenswear Special: Our dedicated menswear seasonal special will focus on key trends for spring ‘13Drapers In-Depth: Sourcing – a look at the di� erent territories and factoriesdriving the sourcing demands of multiplesMenswear, Streetwear, Womenswear: Pret-a-Porter & Who’s Next, we bring you the lowdown on the Parisian showsStreetwear: Bread & Butter, we pull out key trends and new brands to make your tills singBusiness Basics: PropertyTextiles, Pitti Filati: Key trends from the textile showIndie Index: Premium

21 Womenswear Special: Our fashion special will focus on the key trends for the spring ‘13 seasonWomenswear, Mainstream Womenswear Showrooms: We visit the top London showrooms

Menswear: We bring you our Jacket Required and Stitch reportsStreetwear: The Brandery Trend ReportIndie Index: Mainstream

28 Streetwear Special: Drapers brings you the third of our seasonal specials focused on key young fashion looks and trendsTextiles: The London Textiles Fair ReportIndie Index: Young Fashion

AUGUST

4 Drapers In-Depth: Social MediaIndie Index: Kidswear

11 Streetwear: We bring you all the news and brands from MarginIndie Index: Contemporary

18 Womenswear, Pure Preview: We bring you news on what to look out for at Pure LondonWomenwear, Menswear, Footwear, Lingerie: We pull together the best bits from Moda, BirminghamWomenswear, Copenhagen Show Report: The Great Danes show o� their best brands and we bring back what is right for the UK marketIndie Index: Mainstream

25 Womenswear, Young Fashion, Menswear: We bring you the best brands from Pure London and SpiritIndie Index: Mainstream Footwear

SEPTEMBER

1 Footwear & Accessories Special: The final fashion special of the season, we show you the best brands in the sector Business Basics: TechnologyIndie Index: Contemporary Footwear

8 The Drapers Market Report: Our second report will look at brands and the future of the businessDrapers In-Depth: BCSC Special – Drapers investigates the future of bricks and mortarIndie Index: Kidswear

15 Footwear, GDS: Drapers picks the best from the German footwear showStreetwear: Trends from the London Edge showIndie Index: Lingerie

22 New York Fashion Week: Drapers brings you the best from the Big Apple’s catwalksIndie Index: Premium

29 London Fashion Week: We show you what our capital’s catwalks have to o� erFootwear, Micam Show Report: Drapers reports back from the Milan footwear showThe Drapers Multi-Channel Magazine: Our third supplement looking at multi-channel shoppingTextiles, Premiere Vision: Trends from the French textile showIndie Index: Mainstream

OCTOBER

6 Business Basics: Womenswear – a practical look at the key drivers and challenges in the womenswear marketMilan Fashion Week: Drapers highlights the best shows from MilanWomenswear, Hit or Miss: We secret-shop the high street to test which womenswear retailers are packing a punchIndie Index: Contemporary

13 Paris Fashion Week: A Parisian feast as we showcase the best from the catwalksMenswear, High Street Hit or Miss: This time it’s the menswear retailers who are under our scrutinyBusiness Basics: Menswear – a practical look at the key drivers and challenges in the menswear marketIndie Index: Premium

20 Footwear, High Street Hit or Miss: We visit the footwear retailers to see which ones on the high street hit or miss our high standardsBusiness Basics: SecurityWomenswear and Eveningwear: Market analysis on Christmas party wear and where you can get it Indie Index: Occasionwear

27 Drapers In-Depth: Technology in Fashion Report Indie Index: Mainstream

NOVEMBER

3 Indie Index: Contemporary Footwear

10 Indie Index: Premium

17 Business Basics: Supply Chain & Logistics Feature Indie Index: Lingerie

24 Drapers Awards Winners’ Brochure: The 22nd celebration of all that is great in fashion and retailIndie Index: Mainstream

DECEMBER

1 Indie Index: Young Fashion

8 Top 100 Power List: The top 100 most influential people in fashion revealed Indie Index: Lingerie

15 Exhibitions, Show Calendar: Your essential guide to all the shows taking place in the next six months Business Basics: Interiors – visual merchandising and designIndie Index: Premium

22 Review of the Year: We look at the issues that shaped 2012Indie Index: Contemporary



Hit or Miss

� What does your diary look like today? It’s really full today. This morning we had a sample Sale for some of our brands, such as [menswear brand] New Man, [French menswear and womenswear brand] Vicomte A and [casualwear brand] Seal Kay, and we’re in the middle of our press days, meeting press and buyers.� Which meeting are you most looking forward to today? I love being involved in the appointments with buyers. With how things are in the industry right now, getting an appointment is fantastic. It’s a real adrenaline rush.� Which task do you wish you could postpone? Well, getting our Sales samples down from the fourth oor [of the Old Truman Brewery] wasn’t fun, but we did it.� How did you get to where you are today? I began working in retail at 17 and moved to London from Derbyshire in 1998 to run Peter Werth’s � rst store, just o� Carnaby Street. When the white collar-and-cu� s trends took o� the brand was doing fantastically, so I moved into wholesale. We then started a womenswear line but that

The head of sales at agency TCA Sales Group reveals the highs and lows of his career path to date

didn’t perform as well as expected and I was made redundant. I then worked for agency Focus Group selling labels such as [womenswear brand] URU, before becoming an agent for denim brand Mish Mash, and then a denim consultant for [denim brand] Hartball, before starting at TCA Sales Group.� What has been your career highlight? Running the � rst Peter Werth shop. Walking down Regent Street to work I used to feel the hairs on the back of my neck standing up every day. It was a really exciting time.� If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I might not have become an agent for Mish Mash. I was competing against cheaper brands selling jeans at £14 to £18 wholesale, when I was trying to sell them at £20 to £22. I earned only commission and didn’t have a � xed salary. � Who is your mentor? David Summers, who was a director of Peter Werth. I learnt a lot from him and I liked the way he involved me in everything, and how he told me why he made each decision.

That experience helps me in my decision-making now. � What was the best piece of advice he gave you? That it’s all about the detail. He always told me to look past the short term and focus on the longer-term picture.

How I got here_ Carl Easton

If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, [email protected]

2011 Sales manager, TCA Sales Group2008 Sales manager/denim consultant, Hartball 2005 Sales manager, Focus Group2000 Wholesale manager, Peter Werth 1998 London flagship store manager, Peter Werth 1989 Store manager, Jon Paul Fashions, Swadlincote1982 Sales assistant, Jon Paul Fashions, Swadlincote

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CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

� How do you see your career progressing? The agency has come a long way in the past year. Twelve months ago we only had six brands and today we have 20, and with time and e� ort we can become even bigger. I see my career progressing with the agency. If I can do this long term, I’ll be very happy. � What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? You’ve got to love the trade and have a passion for it. Watch TV, read magazines and go in shops to keep up with the trends.� If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? It would probably be visual merchandising, which I often do in the showrooms to create an atmosphere within the space. Salary range: £60,000 to £80,000 (estimate provided by CVUK)

The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy

www.successappointments.co.uk

Find yourperfect job

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Careers

Indie INDEXKidswear

Five to 12-year-olds

1 Mayoral

2 Catimini

3 Little Darlings

4 Ralph Lauren

5 No Added Sugar

6 Joules

7 Scotch & Soda

8 Tommy Hilfiger

9 Hugo Boss

10 Armani Junior

Top 10 Best-selling brands of the week

1 Dresses

2 T-shirts

3 Shorts

4 Jeans

5 Leggings

Top 5 Best-selling categories of the week

1 Mayoral

2 Ralph Lauren

3 Angel Face

4 Catimini

5 Little Darlings

Top 5 Brands with the best sell-through

1 Mayoral

2 Ralph Lauren

3 Timberland

4 Esprit

5 Boss

Top 5 Brands with the best margin

£2,649

Newborn to four-year-olds

1 Catimini

2 Mayoral

3 Pampolina

4 Little Darlings

5 Ralph Lauren

6 No Added Sugar

7 Sarah Louise

8 Toffee Moon

9 Me Too

10 Jean Bourget

Top 10 Best-selling brands of the week

1 Dresses

2 T-shirts

3 Babygros

4 Hats

5 Accessories

Top 5 Best-selling categories of the week

1 Mayoral

2 Ralph Lauren

3 Angel Face

4 Catimini

5 Little Darlings

Top 5 Brands with the best sell-through

1 Mayoral

2 Timberland

3 Ralph Lauren

4 Esprit

5 Me Too

Top 5 Brands with the best margin

AVERAGE TAKINGS -4% year-on-year change

Week ending March 30, 2012

£86AVERAGE SPEND

AVERAGE TAKINGS -3% year-on-year change

Week ending March 30, 2012

AVERAGE SPEND

£73

£2,546

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FooTFAll Change for week ending March 30, 2012 compared with same week in 2011

-10%

FooTFAll Change for week ending March 30, 2012 compared with same week in 2011

Monthly sales figures for the UK independent retail sector

PRoFIT mARGIN AVERAGE NumBER oF uNITS SolDAVERAGE moNTHlY TAKINGS

+13.3% +8.6%

Data for February 20 to March 18, 2012, compared with the same period in 2011. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

%of kidswear indies offer a shoe-fitting service

36

-12%

+3.9%

Indie Index

The budget was a reminder, if required, of the fallibility of economic forecasting. Two years ago the official forecast for UK growth in 2012 was 3.5%. In last week’s

budget it stood at 0.8%. Despite the Treasury’s best efforts, the economic future rarely conforms to expectations.

At a time when UK retail is experiencing huge structural changes, economic uncertainty is one thing retailers could do without. Uncertainty can lead to irrational behaviour, when retailers need to get their heads down and be brutal when it comes to evaluating their businesses. Doing the day-to-day well and trimming fat wherever it appears is the order of the day.

For struggling retailers, this is a time to take decisive action. Emotions must be left at the door; replaced with sharp, focused decision-making. The speed at which value can disappear from a retail business is frightening. One of our oft-repeated mantras is that early intervention preserves value.

Although not a fashion retailer, the travails of Game should act as a cautionary tale. With more than 600 stores in the UK, Game didn’t act quickly enough to save itself. In addition to closing multiple stores, it needed to improve its relationships with key suppliers much earlier. It waited too long to do either.

Other retailers have been able to navigate these waters much more successfully through earlier intervention, even when dealing with wafer-thin margins and supplier relationships that were in desperate need of some TLC. By engaging their suppliers early and initiating some open and honest conversations, as well as developing a credible plan for turning the business around, these retailers have survived situations that could have been terminal.

For fashion retailers in particular, early intervention will also mean taking a hard look at the distribution model from a customer’s point of view, so that changes can be made to reflect how customers want to buy, not how retailers want to sell. More pain is on the way, and now is the time to act. Retailers need to realise that if they bury their heads in the sand in this market, they might end up staying there for good.

‘Early intervention will keep the wolves at bay’_ Dan Coen

/ Talking Trade /

Head of retail, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

Fashion index

This week marked the official start to spring. The weekend’s summer-like conditions, warmer than parts of the Mediterranean, no doubt contributed in detracting shoppers from visiting undercover shopping centres, resulting in 7% fewer shoppers when compared with the same weekend last year. Encouragingly, this week’s 3% downturn was less pronounced than last year’s, when the weekly index after Mother’s Day dropped 7.3%. Regionally, the Scottish Index was most impacted by the weather, reporting a 10% year-on-year drop for the weekend.

There was a considerable deterioration in demand across fashion, with most categories impacted. Trade was hit by lower footfall trends and timing differences with promotions. Email Don Williams, head of retail and wholesale at BDO at [email protected]

Like-for-like sales figures across the high streetWeek ending March 25, 2012

National UK footfall figures for shopping centres and retail centres Week 12 – March 19 to 25, 2012

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

BIRMINGHAM

The most applied for jobs

WEEkly footfall rEtail indEx

HiGH StrEEt SalES trackEr

draPErSJoBS.comThe UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

Week-on-Week change

-3.0%

year-on-yeAR cHANGe

-4.5%

Footwear

Clothing

-4.6%

+6.0%

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The five top stories from around the globe

The next big market for us is Africa. We see South Africa being in the top five of our franchises Stefan Laban, head of franchise business, Gap

Sales growth by pure-plays

+11.8%

Total fashion sales grew 2.7% in value terms, but volumes fell in the 24 weeks ending February 19

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SPORTS STO

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0%

30%

France

South aFrIca

Expenditure

£16.4bn +2.7%

1.6bn Number of units

£10.49

+5.2%

Average selling price

SalES & trEndS

Sales growth by supermarkets

+4.4%

Sales growth by footwear

multiples

+7.7%

2011

2012

●GAP has opened its first store in South Africa, a move it sees as a stepping stone for growth into the rest of sub-Saharan Africa. It has also announced further market entries for 2012 in Lebanon, Georgia and Azerbaijan.

●NeIMAN MARcus, the US luxury department store, has announced it will expand into China by the end of 2012, investing $28m (£18m) in local ecommerce company Glamour Sales holding.

●GAleRIes lAfAyette has reported sales in the fiscal year 2011 grew 4% to €5.58bn (£4.72bn) while operating income rose 4.8% to €372m (£314m). The performance was buoyed by strong sales at the Boulevard haussmann flagship in Paris.

●c&A, the German retailer, is set to follow Spanish chain Mango and lower prices on its Fashion Star Range by 20%. The other 90% of C&A’s offer will not be reduced as it is merchandised below €19 (£16).

●cOs will launch three concessions in Galeries Lafayette department stores in France, the first of which will open in April. Cos will also open its first store in Poland, in Warsaw, this summer.

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Retail sector share £%

PRODUCT TRENDS

our columnist’s WEEKLy RETAIL OUTLOOK

-2.4%

Online continues to grow but it has slowed over the last four years as the market matures

1. Design 9.3%

2. Production 7.4%

3. Merchandising 5.8%

4. Retail management 4.4%

5. Sales 4.3%

As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

24 weeks ending February 19, 2012 versus 2011, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

24 weeks ending February 19, 2012 versus 2011

Total fashion

-3.3%

Julie MacPherson, client manager – fashion, Kantar Worldpanel

France

gerMany

Fashion Index

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