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Fashion HIstory

1890-1940

Fashion History •  Trends move very quickly starting in the

1890s. •  Trends repeat every 20-30 years

Historical Influence- 1890s •  Victorian Era: a period of peace, prosperity

and refined manners •  Age of Optimism •  Ragtime (Jazz and Rhythm) •  Civil War was a large influence (1861-1865)

The Gibson Girl •  Artist Charles Dana

Gibson sketched young women, and became known as the Gibson Girls.

•  They were published in newspapers and set the standard for the All-American Girl

Fashion in the 1890s •  Focus was on the

exaggerated silhouette. •  Shoulders were wide,

waists were cinched in, and the hip was increased.

Key Pieces of Fashion •  Corset: a garment worn to

hold and shape the torso. •  Bustle: skirt-like piece that

were worn to support the drapery of a woman’s dress.

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More about the Corset •  Severely damages the internal structure! •  Some waists went as small as 18” around.

Men’s Fashions •  Matching Coat and Vest with Contrasting

Trousers •  Winged Shirt Collars: generally turned over or turned into wings. •  Ascot Tie: Loose, fluffy tie.

Movies representing this era •  Finding Neverland •  Moulin Rouge (1952) •  Sherlock Holmes •  Holes

Historical Influence-1900s •  Industrial Revolution Era •  Automobiles and Electricity were invented •  Edwardian Era: a time of peace and plenty. The

upper classes embrace leisure sports, so more mobile and flexible were needed.

Fashion in the 1900s •  The S-Curve Silhouette: the silhouette

softened into the S-Shaped Curve. – Softer shoulders, less restrictive corsets and no

bustle.

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Key Pieces of Fashion •  Duster Coat: Men and

women wore these to protect their clothing when driving/riding in cars •  Shirtwaist: A blouse with

buttons down the front

Key pieces of Fashion •  Leg O’Mutton Sleeves:

lots of material at the top, tapered at the wrist

Men’s Fashion •  Three-piece “lounge” suit with

Bowler Hat: relatively non-constricting with a sack coat, simple vest, and pleated trousers

•  Formal Morning Dress with Top Hat: morning coat, waistcoat and trousers.

Movies representing this era •  Moulin Rouge (2001) •  Meet Me in St. Louis •  Saving Mr. Banks •  Mary Poppins

Historical Influence 1910s •  World War 1 (1914-1918) – Fashion came to a standstill because patriotism

was at an all time high •  Women’s Movement – Women demanded the right to vote, wear make-up,

cut their hair short, and wear skirts above the ankle

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Fashion in the 1910s •  Decade starts out with the inverted

triangle silhouette •  Towards the end of WWI: Barrel Silhouette or

Tonneau look comes in •  Baggy dress/jacket combination that made

women look large and droopy in the chest

Key Pieces of Fashion •  Hobble Skirt: Paul Poiret (french designer)

broke the new rule of freedom. – Hemline was narrow so women could only take

very tiny steps – Very short lived

Key Pieces of Fashion •  Bathing Suit: Introduced by Annette Kellerman. •  Bloomers: because of the bicycle, Amelia

Bloomer designed a practical outfit. Loose trousers gathered at the ankle. Later they were shortened to under the knee.

Men’s Fashion •  Military Influences •  Trench Coats

Movies Representing this Era •  Titanic •  Lady and the Tramp •  Tuck Everlasting

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Historical Influences- 1920s •  “Roaring 20’s”-marked by a general feeling of

discontinuity-modern times and a break in tradition. •  Age of Jazz-Dancing rose in popularity •  Prohibition •  Women’s right to vote-causing a more progressive

woman

Fashions in the 1920s •  Silhouette: tubular or straight up and down •  Dropped waistline •  FYI: the brassiere (BRA) was introduced but

was used to flatten the figure, not to uplift or enhance.

Flappers •  Young women’s fashion was both a trend

and social statement, breaking away from rigid Victorian way of life •  Labeled ‘flappers’ by older generations •  No corsets, knee length dresses (exposing

legs and arms) shorter hairstyle

Thinking Woman •  College educated •  Opposite of the flapper •  Dress was emancipated but not extreme

Key Pieces of Fashion •  Costume Jewelry-long

pearl necklaces, large gem stones, bangles etc. •  Cloche Hats-

resembled a helmet.

Men’s Fashions •  Trousers creased with

wider hemlines •  Introduction of modern

two piece suits •  Wingtips

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Movies Representing this Era •  The Great Gatsby •  Thoroughly Modern Millie •  Singing in the Rain •  It’s a Wonderful Life •  The Princess and the Frog

Historical Influences-1930s •  Depression Era: Good times ended with the

crash of the stock market. •  Hollywood/Movie Stars

Designers •  Coco Chanel: made a hit in fashion using

black and navy in simple frill-free designs. She said, “Each frill discarded makes one look younger.” •  Fashion had to change because of lack of

supplies

Fashion in the 1930s •  Elongated Hourglass silhouette: long and

slim with flared hem (think mermaid) •  Hemlines were dropped back down to the

ankle, waistline was restored •  Hand-me-downs became popular (reuse

everything!)

Key Pieces of Fashion •  Bias cut dresses: it

revolutionized the silhouette. It emphasized the natural curves of a woman through drape and fabric choice

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Key Pieces in Fashion •  Flour Sack Clothing: Flour sacks became the

material for clothing.

Men’s Fashions •  Introduction of the double breasted suit •  Padded shoulders •  Glen Plaid Fabrics

Movies Representing this Era •  Annie •  Cinderella Man •  The Legend of Bagger Vance •  The Sound of Music

Historical Influences-1940s •  World War II (1939-1945): Fashion industry

in Europe was closed down by the war, so the U.S. was left to it’s own designers for fashion direction •  Rationing •  New York Gains Importance

Fashion in 1940s •  Inverted Triangle Silhouette •  Women began to wear pants (practical dress for

work in industry.) Pant then became popular as a comfortable casual fashion

•  Fashion was very manly and very sensible tweed. Shoulders were square, wide and padded

•  Suit dresses were very popular

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War Restrictions •  Fashion was restricted •  Stockings were expensive

and usually not available. Women in this picture are shown painting their legs to appear to have nylons on.

More Restrictions •  L85-law which restricted the manufacture of

clothing – Ruffles were forbidden – Only one pocket per blouse or shirt – Hems could be no deeper than 2 inches and the

widest part of the hem of a dress could not exceed 72 inches

Key Pieces in Fashion •  Convertible Suit (mix and match pieces): •  Slacks

Men’s Fashion •  Military Influence: Bomber

Jacket and Eisenhower Jacket

•  Several things were removed: cuffs, vest, pant suits, patch pockets, cloth belts, and pleats.

Movies Representing this Era •  A League of Their Own •  Bedknobs and Broomsticks •  Pearl Harbor •  The Notebook