fabrics apparel 2 – obj. 1.02. fabric construction: weaving and knitting
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FabricsFabrics
Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02
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Fabric Construction: Fabric Construction: Weaving and KnittingWeaving and Knitting
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Woven FabricsWoven Fabrics
Interlacing 2 Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at sets of yarns at right angles to right angles to each othereach other
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Plain WeavePlain Weave Simplest of all Simplest of all
weavesweaves Most commonMost common Over, under; Over, under;
over, underover, under **broadcloth, **broadcloth,
gingham, poplingingham, poplin muslin, and muslin, and
many othersmany others
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Twill WeaveTwill Weave
Diagonal Diagonal weaveweave
**denim, **denim, gabardinegabardine
**firm, heavy **firm, heavy weaveweave
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Satin WeaveSatin Weave
Shiny, reflects Shiny, reflects lightlight
Smooth and Smooth and slipperyslippery
Frays a lotFrays a lot **lustrous **lustrous
appearanceappearance
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Leno WeaveLeno Weave
Pairs of threads Pairs of threads crossed overcrossed over
Looks “open”Looks “open” Fruit bags, Fruit bags,
mosquito nettingmosquito netting
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Pile WeavePile Weave
Raised surfaceRaised surface Loopy or furryLoopy or furry VelvetVelvet CorduroyCorduroy
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KnitsKnits
Weft – one yarnWeft – one yarn Warp – several Warp – several
yarnsyarns Purl – looks the Purl – looks the
same on both same on both sidessides
Purl Knit
Warp Knit
Weft Knit
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Weft Knit**Weft Knit**
Uses one yarnUses one yarn **Single knit, **Single knit,
ribbed and jerseyribbed and jersey
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Double KnitDouble Knit
2 yarns and 2 2 yarns and 2 sets of needlessets of needles
Heavier and Heavier and sturdiersturdier
Doesn’t run or Doesn’t run or ravelravel
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Ribbed KnitRibbed Knit
Vertical ribs on Vertical ribs on front and backfront and back
Neck and wrist Neck and wrist bands on bands on sweaterssweaters
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Jersey KnitJersey Knit
Most common Most common knitknit
Plain, single knitPlain, single knit T-shirtsT-shirts
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Tricot KnitTricot Knit Very fine vertical Very fine vertical
wales on the right wales on the right sideside
Stable knit – lies Stable knit – lies flatflat
Doesn’t run or Doesn’t run or ravelravel
Lingerie, Lingerie, underwearunderwear
Very fast to weaveVery fast to weave
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Raschel KnitRaschel Knit
Uses extra Uses extra yarn to create yarn to create a patterna pattern
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Non-wovenNon-woven
Leather, lace, Leather, lace, felt, disposable felt, disposable fabricsfabrics
Heat, moistureHeat, moisture Adhesive, Adhesive,
bondingbonding Yarns and layersYarns and layers
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Non-wovenNon-woven
Interlocking Interlocking fibersfibers
Don’t fray or Don’t fray or ravelravel
FlexibleFlexible Might tear easilyMight tear easily
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FeltingFelting
Hot washing and Hot washing and drying wooldrying wool
ShrinksShrinks Soft and fluffySoft and fluffy
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InterfacingInterfacing
Very light to very Very light to very heavy and stiffheavy and stiff
Padding Padding (quilting)(quilting)
Fusible or sew-inFusible or sew-in
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Fabric FinishesFabric Finishes
Special treatments applied to improve Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or a fabric’s appearance, texture or performanceperformance
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““Gray Goods”Gray Goods”
Before any color Before any color or finish is added or finish is added to the product.to the product.
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BleachingBleaching
Used to Used to remove remove impurities in impurities in fabric to ensure fabric to ensure a “true dye.”a “true dye.”
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Yarn DyedYarn Dyed
Yarns are dyed Yarns are dyed before weaving or before weaving or knitting.knitting.
Good for plaids, Good for plaids, checks, and checks, and stripes. **stripes. **
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Fiber Dyed **Fiber Dyed **
AKA “Stock AKA “Stock Dyeing”Dyeing”
Natural fibers Natural fibers dyed before spun dyed before spun into yarninto yarn
Uniform color Uniform color and good color and good color fastnessfastness
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Piece Dyed**Piece Dyed**
Fabric dyed Fabric dyed after weaving after weaving or knittingor knitting
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Garment DyedGarment Dyed
Fabric is cut Fabric is cut and sewnand sewn
Entire garment Entire garment or item is dyedor item is dyed
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Printing TechniquesPrinting Techniques
Color is Color is transferred transferred to surface of to surface of fabric to fabric to form a form a patternpattern
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RollerRoller
Printing pres Printing pres with circular with circular rollersrollers
One for One for each coloreach color
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Rotary ScreenRotary Screen
Fast, Fast, inexpensiveinexpensive
3500 yards 3500 yards per hourper hour
Good for large Good for large designs**designs**
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Texture and Performance FinishesTexture and Performance Finishes
Improves Improves surface feel of surface feel of fabricfabric
Improve Improve comfort and comfort and wear abilitywear ability
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NappingNapping
Raised, Fuzzy Raised, Fuzzy FabricFabric
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SizingSizing
Extra body and Extra body and weightweight
Adds StarchAdds Starch
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WeightingWeighting
A textured finish applied to make the A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it garment stiffer and heavier looking than it isis
Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really isthan it really is