Name: L**** M****Candidate Number: ****

Centre Number: *****Product: Skirt (Shown Below)

Back of skirt Front of skirt

The needs of the Manufacturer

The needs of the Consumer- The skirt must be appealing to the target audience- The garment needs to attract teenagers aged from 15 to 22, therefore must be aesthetically appealing. Teenagers tend to buy garments that are trendy or currently in style therefore the style of the skirt must be something considered to be in fashion currently such as a skater skirt. Most people in this age group are either students at secondary school/college or are working therefore the garment would also need to have a suitable appearance so it could be worn in these places. Darker and plain colours would appeal mostly as those are most suitable to be worn in college and the work place.

- The skirt must fit comfortably- As the garment would be worn for long periods of time, for example at school or work, it would need to be comfortable for the user. The waist must be slightly stretchy so it adjusts to when the user stands up or sits down, the garment itself must also not be restricting and allow freedom of movement.

- The skirt must be value for money- The quality of the garment must be suitable to the price of the garment. As the consumers are teenagers and young adults they most likely do not have large amounts of money to spend therefore the skirt must be affordable, however the skirt also needs to be of good quality so it would not wear out over prolonged periods of wear.

- Must be simple to take care of-Caring for the garment must be simple as students usually have busy lifestyles therefore would not have enough time to always iron and take extra care with the garment. It also must be machine washable and have simple wash and dry instructions so it could be washed several times a week.

Product analysisDetailed description of the intended purpose of one single selected named product: The garment I have chosen to focus on is a black, chiffon skirt I bought from a local second-hand. This skirt appealed to me as I am fond of the edgy/gothic style and thought it would be interesting to disassemble and research this garment.

The skirt is in a size 12, it is black in colour and closely resembles a skater skirt however it is made out of layers of a sheer chiffon material and detailed with frills running all the way around the bottom of the skirt giving it a slight gothic appearance. It is very loose and lightweight therefore making it a very suitable garment for the warmer seasons as its light materials mean its breathable and comfortable. The skirt is also very short in length, reaching to about mid-upper thigh length.

The skirt is made out of a very light chiffon material, therefore most suitable to be worn in warmer temperatures (during spring/summer), the lining is also very thin therefore would not keep much heat in. Due to the skirts very short length it would most likely be worn over tights. I believe this garment can be worn as both part of an everyday outfit or part of a party outfit.

I personally believe this garment is aimed at young females with a more edgy and grunge style due to its appearance, however I also believe that this garment may appeal to the average high street shopper as it would be suitable for certain occasions and informal parties (for example Halloween parties). Furthermore this garment may appeal to people that are more comfortable in wearing things of a shorter length, as the skirt is very short.

I do not know the exact cost of this garment as I purchased it from a second hand store, however its label states that it was sold at a high-street store called Lipsy. I visited their website and found that many similar skirts (in shape , length style ) are being sold at prices ranging from £20 to £32, therefore I can assume that this garment was previously sold at a price in that range.

- The skirt needs to be cheap to produce and purchase- This garment will be sold in a high-street shop therefore would need to be affordable for the average high street shopper and mainly affordable for teenagers and young adults. However the manufacturer would also need to ensure that the garment is still of good quality and is durable so consumers would think of repurchasing from the brand.

- Skilled workers- The manufacturer needs to make sure that there are skilled workers so less errors are made and there are no accidents. Having more skilled workers would also mean that the garments are produced at a faster and more efficient rate, this would be required as garment would be mass produced. Having a more skilled the workforce also means that there will be less workers needed so the manufacturer would not have to pay as much as having a larger amount of workers.

- Safety of workers and quality control checks- The manufacturer needs to Make sure that there are constant quality control checks throughout the process of manufacture to make sure that there are no major errors with the product and if there are then they would be dealt with during the early stages of production saving time and money. The manufacturer also needs to make sure that the workforce have the correct safety equipment such as goggles, gloves, mask etc… so that there is a less likely chance of injury

- Easy and cheap transportation- The manufacturer needs to make sure that the transportation of the product from one place to another is easy and cheap. The manufacturer would also need to look at the environmental impact transporting garments from further away countries would have and would have to find the best way in which to transport the products without overly harming the environment..

- -Skirt must be easy to function and sell- The manufacturer needs to make sure that the garment meets the requirements of the target audience/consumers. The manufacturer also needs to make sure that the garment is appealing to the target audience and they may need to do further research into similar garments being sold in the high street in order to see how he could make the garment sell better.

DisassemblyStitching of the lining

Unpicked zip

The lining of the skirt

Shell

Key design criteriaKey criteria used in the design on the product:

User: The target user of this skirt would be females aged from around 15-22

Brand: The garment is from the high street store called ‘Lipsy’

Fabric: This garment is made out of 100% polyester, the lining is made out of 44.9% of polyester and 55.1% of viscose. Polyester clothing has a lot of advantages: It lasts a long time and wears very well. It is very hard to stain, holds its shape, and does not wrinkle, It can be washed or dry cleaned. However Polyester does not breathe. The moisture the body creates just stays on the body or soaks in to the fabric. Polyester does not dye, so you cannot change the colour. Furthermore It's a non-biodegradable material, which means it will never decompose, filling up landfills and harming the environment.

Function: The function of this garment is to be comfortable for the user to wear and not restricting movement, but at the same time to be hardwearing and durable as it is also intended for everyday/casual wear. The garment should also be on style and trendy for the upcoming season as the target audience would most likely seek clothes that are in style and fashionable.

Aesthetics: I will be keeping the main look of the garment such as the layers and colour, however I will change length of the skirt making it longer so it is more suitable for everyday wear, especially in the slightly more colder months.

Environmental issues: While adding to the garment I will take environmental issues into consideration such as making sure I waste as little material as possible, i will also aim to use some biodegradable/recyclable materials to add to the garment in order to reduce its impact on the environment.

Product service life and maintenance: : This product must be easy to care for because the garment is aimed at young adults so they will either be in education or working therefore would not have large amounts of time to spend on caring for a garment, so the garment needs to be able to be washed in a washing machine with complications. This also means that it needs to be more durable so it would not fall apart if proper care is not taken of it.

Size/weight: The garment is lightweight, I will also be adding in an elasticated waist making the garment a one size fit so it would not only be more confortable but also appeal to a wider audience as the garment would fit smaller and larger sizes.

Quality control/ assurance and health and safety: The manufacturers of the garment would need to maintain a good reputation, so that the consumers continue to buy their garments. The manufacturers would have to make sure the work place is safe for all the workers and that no equipment is faulty and the workers have the correct safety gear in order to reduce likelihood of injury. Just taking these small actions the manufacturers will make sure that their workers meet the needs of the product in a safe and controlled environment and this may also help reduce the amount of waste materials produced helping the environment. The product needs to also be checked throughout the manufacturing process and not only at the end as any small errors made could be fixed quickly before they become something unfixable, the product at the end would need to be checked for small rips/tears, for small pins that may still be in the garment and also if all seems are sewn/rough edges are overclocked.

Garment faultsThe garment I have chosen has a few problems I noticed. The main problem was the extremely short length of the skirt, while worn it reaches around mid to upper thigh which I find to be far too short. Another problem that I noticed was the material the skirt was made of, it felt very uncomfortable on the skin as it was very coarse.

If I were remaking the skirt I would make it longer in length while keeping the nice shape of it, I would also change the material of the skirt to something softer, or keep the chiffon material on the outside but change the lining which will be the part making contact with the skin.

Back of skirt Front of skirt

Target market:The target market for this garment appears to be teenagers and young adults due to its short length and the excessive amount of frills descending down the shell of the garment. This garment also seems to be for the purpose of being worn at a party due its style and length which wouldn't not make it appropriate for everyday or school/work wear.

Strengths and weaknessesFunction

Versatile: The skirt can be worn as part of an everyday outfit or to school and work.

Materials- Polyester: The garment being made out of polyester means it is easy to care

for, as it is quick to dry and its crease resistant, therefore would not need ironing often. This would be very suitable for the target audience as most of them are likely to be students so their busy lifestyle would not allow enough time to spend on taking great care of the garment.

- Polyester is cheaper- Polyester is a cheap material therefore this garment would be very affordable for teenagers/young adults who most likely do not have large sums of money to spend on clothes.

Polyester is lightweight: Polyester is a lightweight material therefore would not cause discomfort for the user when worn for long periods of time.

Ergonomics/ease of useShort in length: The short length makes the garment less restrictive and therefore more comfortable.Ease of wear: The garment is easy to put on and take off as there is only one component, a zip in the back.

Aesthetics- Dark colour: The dark colour of the garment means that stains are easily

concealed. The dark and plain colour also makes the skirt easy to pair with other garments.

- Ruffles: The small ruffles lining the edge of each layer of the skirt add simple yet edgy detail to the garment.

Costs-Cheap to manufacture: As it is most likely that the garment was produced abroad, this would mean that it was cheaper to manufacture meaning a good profit can be made.Cheap fabric: The fabrics used on the skirt are easy to find and gather, they are also cheap.Less money spent on work force: The garment does not contain any intricate sections that would need more skilled workers, also meaning that the cost of production of the garment would be cheaper and it would also be easier/cheaper to mass produce.

ManufacturingCheap manufacture: The garment was produced outside the UK, in a third world country, meaning its manufacture would have been cheaper as workers in third world countries are paid less and work longer hours.Good quality: I can see that the garment had quality control and assurance checks throughout the manufacture as it is made to a good standard.Easy/quick manufacture: The garment does not have especially detailed parts or anything that may have taken more skill to manufacture meaning that less money was spent on the work force during manufacture, and also less time.

Product weaknesses  Product strengths Function-Too short in length: The skirt is too short to be worn in a school or work environment. This not only makes it inappropriate but also harder and less comfortable to work in.-Lining not thick enough: The lining of the skirt is too thin, this makes the garment inappropriate for school or the work place as it is made mostly out of a light and slightly see through chiffon material. This also means the garment keeps no heat in make it inappropriate to wear in colder weather.-Zip component- This means that it can only fit certain sizes therefore not versatile, a zip also becomes worn out over time

Aesthetics-Material looks unappealing: The cheap chiffon material of this skirt gives the garment a fake and unappealing look, this may work against attracting teenagers ,the target market, as they usually pay close attention to the aesthetics of a garment. Ruffles: The excessive amount of ruffles makes this garment appear old fashioned and too edgy to be worn to school or the work place.

CostsProduct made abroad: The product was made abroad in a third world country such as India this means that the garment would cost more to transport as it is a longer distance away. It would also take a longer amount of time to transport.

Ergonomics/ease of use- Garments waist is tight- This makes the garment uncomfortable to wear

for longer periods of time and uncomfortable to sit down in.- Does not feel comfortable on the skin- Scratchy chiffon material will

become annoying after constant contact with skin.-Zip fastening restricting: The skirt has a zip fastening, not only will this not allow much room for weight gain or loss, but a zip fastening can also become worn down after long periods of use. A zip fastening also means the skirt cannot be pulled down any lower or higher as it locks the garment in one place.

Materials-Polyester chiffon material: Material feels rough on the skin and can cause un comfort after long periods of wear. Material also does not stretch making it restricting at the top section.- Polyester harmful to the environment: This is a synthetic fabric meaning

that it is non biodegradable making it harmful to the environment.Polyester is unappealing: Polyester material does not have the same look and feel as cotton.

ManufacturingNot too quick and simple: Although the garment does not have any especially intricate parts and therefore would be easy to produce, the garment still does have quite a bit of ruffle detailing around each layer of the skirt which would take more time and effort to manufacture unlike a simple skater skirt or peplum skirt.

Product Function Materials Manufacturing Ergonomics Aesthetics Cost Comparison to original

The function of the maxi skirt is for everyday wear. It for the warmer seasons, spring/summer, as it is made out of a lightweight chiffon material that allows the skin to breath by not absorbing heat, It can be easily paired with other garments of various colour as its black colour is simple and easy to work with.

90% of the garment is made out of polyester meaning that this garment is very durable and will not crease easily therefore making it low maintenance and easier to take care of. Polyester is also cheaper, however not always comfortable if wont for long periods of time.

This garment is very well made as all edges had been over locked and it appears neat. This garment has a layer of chiffon material and the lining. There are no components in this garment such as a zip etc… there are also no patterns or designs therefore would not require highly skilled workers.

The zip at the back of the waist of this garment makes it only suitable to a specific size, this means that if the user experienced any weight loss/gain this garment may not fit them well anymore.

The length but lightness of the material makes it suitable for people who want to feel comfortable during warmer weather without wearing shorter garments. The black color of the garment also makes it suitable to be worn with various other colored garments and styles, however the dark color of the garment means that it may absorb more heat.

The cost of this garment would be low as high skilled workers are not needed as the garment is very basic. The only components are a zip at the back of the skirt, which is very simple to attach.

This garment is better than the original as it is longer in length and therefore more appropriate, however, a chiffon maxi skirt would not be entirely appropriate for a school or work environment but rather everyday wear.

The function of this short, chiffon skirt is everyday/work/school/party wear. Due to its color and short length it can easily be dressed up with a blazer and tights or dressed down with a casual crop top and jean jacket. It is most suitable for warmer seasons as its chiffon material is lightweight and does not absorb heat., however this also means it would not be suitable for colder weather

This garment is also made mostly out of polyester,95%, making it very durable, therefore suitable for everyday wear. It is also suitable for students or a person with a busier lifestyle and polyester does not crease easily therefore it is easier to take care of.

The garment is not well finished as when turned inside out many edges had not been over locked. The garment has a few layers of chiffon followed by the lining underneath, manufacture of this product would be simple for the most part as it does not contain any intricate parts that would require a high skill level.

The garment has no components and no elasticated waist, it is easy to put on, however this also makes the garment only suitable for a certain size as the waist does not stretch.

The dark color of the garment makes it suitable for most occasions formal or informal. Once again it is made form a lightweight chiffon material therefore more suitable to warmer weather.

The cost of the garment would be quiet low as the construction of this garment is very basic as it is made up only of layers of chiffon. There are no complicated components or intricate patterns either, it is all one colour/style.

This product is very similar to the original as they both have no elasticated waist, are similar lengths and a similar style. However this skirt is more plain than the original as it does not include the several ruffles, this also makes it more appropriate for school and work.

The function of this skater skirt is to be either worn as part of an everyday outfit, or as part of a smart work outfit if it is paired with a shirt/blazer. This can be suitable in warmer and cooler seasons if paired with certain garments.

85% of the garment is made out of polyester making it durable, polyester also does not crease easily so this garment is easier to take care of. However polyester does not have a nice feel on the skin and may feel slightly uncomfortable during prolonged periods of wear. It is also made from 4% of Elastane making it slightly stretchy.

The garment appears and feels of high quality. It has been well made. Manufacture would be easy as this had no lining or complicated sections only one layer, and an elasticated waist therefore would be easier and cheaper for mass production.

This skater skirt has an elasticated waist and a slightly stretchy material meaning that a little weight loss or gain would not affect how this garment fits the user. However when walking/moving for a long period of time the elastic causes the garment to rise up and not remain in one place which may annoy the user.

The skater skirt is short and black making it suitable for most occasions. It also has some pleats making it look neater and more appealing overall. Skater skirts are also currently in style and popular with teenagers/young adults which are the target audience..

This garment does not require a high skill level to create as it is very simple consisting entirely of one layer/style and colour therefore the cost would be low. This also means that it would be very easily batch produced.

This simple skater skirt is only slightly longer than the original, so still very short in length, however it is made from a thicker and stretchy material and also has an elasticated waist making it a much more comfortable fit and easier to put on.

The function of this high-low skirt is to be worn as part of an everyday outfit as its casual style may not be so suitable for the work or school environment.

This garment is made of mostly polyester material. Polyester is easy to take care of and is a cheap material but not so comfortable.

The garment appears to be well manufactured as all edges are over locked and neat. This garment would not be difficult to manufacture as it is made only of a few layers of chiffon with a simple elasticised waist.

The elasticated waist on this skirt makes it comfortable to be worn for longer periods of time, it also makes the garment easier to take on and off. However the elastic can become uncomfortable if a lot of weight is gained as it can only stretch so far until it becomes restricting.

The high-low skirt is made of layers of a chiffon material. It has no lining therefore it is slightly see through. This also means this is not suitable for colder weather.

The cost of this garment would be low as it is a very simple garment and therefore would not require a highly skilled workforce to produce this.

This garment is better than the original as it keeps the short length at the front but makes the garment more modest by having a longer length at the back of the skirt. This is also more comfortable due to the elasticated waist.

Social, Moral, Ethical and Environmental issues

The Six R’s

Rethink:When buying the garment the customer must take a while to think about the ethical and environmental problems this garment may have created while being manufactured. If the garment does not have a label then it would be better to avoid it. My garment has a clear label showing that it is from the high-street store ‘Lipsy’ however this store does not mention or dwell on any ethical/environmental issues on their website or on other forms of advertisement therefore it leads me to assume that their garments are in fact produced in sweat shops or other places that do not follow the fair trade policy.

Reuse: If the customer feels like the garment (skirt) is out of fashion or it has been worn out there are other options they can think about rather than simply throwing the garment out and helping to fuel global warming (as the garment is made mainly out of polyester therefore is not biodegradable). They can either donate the garment to charity if they feel like it is still in wearable condition

Recycle: If the costumer feels like this garment is no longer in wearable/satisfactory condition it can always be given to garment recycling charities/factories to make something new out of the garment (as the skirt is made mainly out of polyester this could easily be recycled into plastic bottles), this not only prolongs the garments life cycle but also reduces carbon emissions benefiting the environment.

Reduce: The manufacturer could use less synthetic fibers while making the garment so it becomes more biodegradable, they could also reuse wasted

Repair: This is a slightly more temporary alternative to throwing the garment out. If the Skirt’s zip begins to fail or the chiffon is tearing then replacing the component or stitching up the tear will make sure you can get much more wear out of it.

Refuse: For a more long term solution to all the above, the consumer could simply refuse to buy garments that are made mainly out of polyester, garments that are not manufactured under fair trade policies or garments that have been shipped from far away places.

Environmental issues:This garment is made from 90% polyester. Polyester has a number of harmful issues towards the environment:

1 ) Mining for non renewable resources that create polyester, (coal and petroleum) destroy natural habitats during the process.2) Fuel released by vehicles used to transport the raw materials before and after manufacturing pollutes the atmosphere.3) To keep the product new and undamaged of whatever polyester may be used for, packaging is always excessive, and mostly ends up at a landfill. 4) Also polyester is non bio gradable which means if it ends up on a landfill it will never degrade taking up a massive amount of space.

Fibres and organic fibres: The majority of my garment is made from polyester and the rest of it is made from other synthetic fibres. This means that my garment is made from chemicals making it more harmful to the environment as these chemicals produce a high amount of carbon emissions. If organic fibres were used it would make the garment far more environmentally friendly as it would mean no harmful dyes or pesticides were used, this would also mean that the workers would not be harmed as they would not be exposed to any dangerous substances, which could even affect their future children.

Life cycle analysis:I will be looking at the several stages my garment would have gone through, I will also be partially focusing on polyester, which is the material that makes up the majority of my garment. I will be grading each section of the garments life cycle based on its social ,ethical and environmental friendliness

As most of my garment is made from polyester this would mean that it would have a good long life cycle to makeup for the large amount of harmful carbon emissions released into the atmosphere during its manufacture. Polyester is made out of raw materials such as crude oils, these are not only rapidly running out but are also very harmful to the environment, the raw materials stage of polyester would be given a 1/5 as there are no good factors to this part of its production. After this a high amount of heat and energy is needed to melt the substance into a polymer, this is also harmful to the environment to an extent therefore I would give this a grading of 2/5.

The actual manufacturing of my garment was most likely done in a third world country such as India were the conditions of the workers are most likely very bad, with long working hours and under minimum wage. Due to the bad conditions of the workers it is most likely the garments produced are also of lower quality therefore I would give this a grading of 1/5. I would give the shipping of the shipping a grading of 3 out of 5 as the same process applies to many other fabrics being transported to the UK as hardly any manufacturing of garments happen in the UK. However the fact that the material has to travel a long distance means that there is a high amount of carbon emissions harming the environment.

The care/Laundry part of my garments cycle would get a grading of 5/5 as it is made mostly out of polyester therefore would not require a higher temperature when being washed, helping save energy and ultimately helping the environment. The recycling of this garment would receive a grading of 1/5 as polyester is a non biodegradable material meaning that it would never decompose leaving it cluttering a landfill for many years.

Moral and ethical l issues:The term ‘Fast fashion’ is often used to refer to trendy, inexpensive versions of runway outfits that are bought by the average high-street shopper and thrown out after being worn for merely a season or two. As customers focus more on quantity than quality several of these clothes are simply thrown after ripping or becoming worn out. Many of these garments are also non biodegradable meaning they will be left to decompose in landfills, harming the environment.

Furthermore as more clothing is shipped and flown from the Far East to Europe the more pollution is being created as garments are most likely to be transported through aeroplane.

Design brief and specification

I am going to be improving a skirt that could be worn as part of an everyday outfit or as a party outfit. I am going to improve the garment by making it suitable for larger and smaller sizes by including an elasticated waist, also making the garment more comfortable and easier to wear as no annoying components are needed. I will also be extending the length of the skirt as it is currently extremely short and some people may not feel comfortable wearing a garment of such length.

Design Specification:

1) Functional:1.1 Skirt must be appropriate for school/work environment- the skirt must be in a black or dark colour to fit in with a school or work place’s uniform requirements. The skirt must also be if an appropriate length for a school or work environment, meaning it must not be too short or too long. 1.2 The skirt must appeal to teenagers- The target audience is teenagers therefore the garment must be aesthetically appealing and in style as well as appropriate for the work place as teenagers and young adults tend to pay close attention to the aesthetics of a garment.2) Materials:2.1 Materials must be comfortable- If skirt is designed to be worn at the school or work place the materials of the garment must be comfortable to be worn for longer periods of time.2.2Recyclable fabric- I am going to keep the main fabric of the skirt as polyester as although it is not biodegradable it can easily be recycled into plastic bottles so it does not end up in a landfill. 2.3 Affordable/cheap fabric- Polyester is also a affordable and widely available fabric making the manufacturing process easier and making it more appealing to the consumers due to the price.2.4 Skirt materials must be durable- As the skirt’s function is to be worn to the work or school place this would mean it would be worn most days in the week, therefore the materials of the skirt would need to be durable to last long periods of wear.2.5 Skirt materials must be machine washable- This skirt is aimed at a target audience of young adults and teenagers who would not usually have large amounts of time to spend on caring for the garment, therefore it should be able to be easily washed by washing machine. 3) Cost: 3.1 Materials must be affordable- Needs to be made out of sturdy but cheap material so it can be affordable for teenagers and young adults.3.2 Manufacturing process of the skirt must not be too expensive- The manufacturing of the skirt must be cheap but the quality must not suffer.3.3 Skirt should not cost more than £20- This garment will be sold on the high street therefore should be affordable for the average high street shopper and the target audience, young adults/teenagers.

Design Brief

Design Specification

4) Ergonomics/Ease of use:4.1 One size garment-The garment is a size UK 12, however when I make changes to the garment I have decided to make it one size so it would appeal to a wider range of people and be more comfortable.4.2 Elasticated waist- The garment must have an elasticated waist as this allows room for weight loss and gain and is also more comfortable.4.3 Skirt must be easy to put on and take off- This garment is aimed at students and workers who would usually be in a hurry to get ready, therefore the skirt must have a simple way of being put on and being taken of to save time and effort for the user,5) Manufacturing:5.1 The skirt should be quick to manufacture- So enough are made if demand for product rises.6) Aesthetics:6.1 Skirt must be in fashion/on trend- As the target audience for this skirt are teenagers and young adults the skirt must look appealing and be in style as this is one of the main aspects younger people focus on when purchasing a garment.6.2 Skirt must be dark in colour- The skirt should be a darker colour such as Black as it is aimed to be worn at the school or work place therefore it must adhere to the dress codes usually present at such places.7) Moral issues:7.1 Garment should be manufactured with recyclable materials-so the garment can promote recycling, this also allows the product to be recycled at the end of its life cycle so there is not a strong impact on the environment.7.2 The garment should be manufactured from a small amount of materials- reducing the amount of materials used in the manufacturing process would not only make the garment more cheaper to produce but also allows the garment to be more sustainable.7.3 Production of the garment must be fair trade- This will make sure the workers producing the garments in third world countries are getting at least minimum wage and are working in good conditions.

SKIRT IDEAS

Initial design ideas

Audience feedback: I presented the first page of my initial design ideas to the class and then asked for feedback after. Overall from the audience feedback the initial design idea that was favoured the most was the first pencil skirt idea as it was viewed as very appealing but also appropriate for the work/school place, the least liked idea was the second stretchy, wrap skirt as people viewed it as inappropriate for the work or school place, it was also stated that such a design may be uncomfortable to be worn for long periods of time.

SPEC 1.2

SPEC 1.2

SPEC 2.1SPEC

1.1

Initial design ideas

Audience feedback: I presented this second page of design ideas to the the class and also gathered their feedback afterwards. Overall from the audience feedback the initial design idea that was favoured the most was the simple peplum skirt as people stated it looked appealing and comfortable to be worn in the work place and for long periods of time. People also added that the peplum style was helpful for hiding any areas of insecurity therefore would be best to implement into my final design as it would attract more types of customers to buying the skirt. The idea least liked by my audience was the ruffle maxi skirt, one person stated it would not be appropriate for a formal work place and is not suitable to be worn all year round therefore not versatile enough.

SPEC 2.1

SPEC 4.2

SPEC 4.2

SPEC 4.3

SPEC 1.1

SPEC 2.1

SPEC 4.3

Developed design idea 1- elasticated waist

Client feedback design idea 1bMy client liked this idea and thought it were an improvement from design idea 2a but said it would not be something she would wear to work as she felt that the double ruffle style lining the edge of the skirt was excessive and made the skirt seem inappropriate for the work place. (Going against spec point 1.1)Construction detailWhen I am constructing this garment I would create a body-con pencil skirt to begin with and then create the ruffles separately to add on to either side of the garment and across the waist line.

Out of the three elasticated waist developed design ideas I decided on creating design idea 2c as this included the least ruffles and was the most appealing design idea in my clients opinion, and therefore would appeal the most to my target audience. This was also the design idea I felt was most appropriate for the work place as the single ruffle was not too excessive and casual. This design idea is also a good starting point for development as it is similar to my original garment but with a few changes.

Client feedback design idea 1aOverall my client was not overly pleased with this design idea as she was not fond of the large ruffles descending down the shell of the garment. She felt that the garment seemed as if it were aimed at a younger age group and she would not feel comfortable wearing the skirt herself. (Going against spec point 1.2)Construction detail:When constructing this garment I would create a plain simple skirt, and then add the ruffles on separately, making it a similar process to the peplum skirt.

Client feedback design idea 1cMy client liked this idea the most as this had the least ruffles and therefore had a more mature appearance. She felt like this would be more appropriate to wear at the work place and the single ruffle at the bottom also gave the skirt a more attractive and fitted appearance. (Fulfilling spec points 1.1 and 1.2)Construction detail:When constructing this garment I would create a plain simple skirt, and then add the ruffles on separately, making it a similar process to the peplum skirt.

Front of skirt Back of skirt

Problems

The development design idea 1 focused on improving the ergonomics of the original garment. The original garment has an uncomfortable zip fastening, however this was changed to a much more comfortable and easy elasticated waist as addressed in specification point 5.2 . The aesthetic appearance of skit remained largely the same. Although design idea 1c is an improvement from the original garment it still has problems.

• The skirt is still too short to be worn comfortably at the work place for long periods of time, its short length also makes it inappropriate for the work place.

• Although the amount of ruffles on the garment have been reduced, the ruffles still make the garment seem too casual to be worn for work as they don’t have a smart and professional appearance.

• Ruffles lining the bottom of the skirt give the garment an unflattering overall shape, this style is also not in fashion and is likely not to appeal to the younger target audience.

Client feedback design idea 2bMy client was not fond of this design idea as she felt the double peplum style at either side of the skirt was unflattering and excessive for the work place. She also felt this would not be something a younger person would wear and therefore unappealing to the target audience. (going against spec point 1.2)Construction detailWhen I am constructing this garment I would create a body-con pencil skirt to begin with and then create the ruffles separately to add on to either side of the garment and across the waist line.

Developed design idea 2- Peplum

Client feedback design idea 2aThis was the design idea my client was most pleased with. She felt the skirt was really flattering as the peplum style drew attention to the waist flattering her body shape and hid any areas of imperfection. Amelia felt like this would be very appropriate for the work place as it is stylish yet simple. (Fulfilling spec point 1.1)Construction detailWhen constructing this garment I would first create a simple, short body con skirt separately and then add the peplum ruffle around the top of the skirt.

Front of skirt Back of skirt

Out of the three peplum developed design ideas I decided on creating design idea 2a as this design idea is more flattering on a larger number of body shapes. The simple peplum lining the top of a pencil/body con skirt also makes this garment very suitable for the work place as the elasticated waist remains but unlike design idea 1 this ruffles have been changed into a simpler and more fashionable peplum style.

Problems

The development design idea 2 focused on improving the aesthetics of the garment making it not only more appealing to the younger target audience also more suitable for the work place. The elasticated waist remains as thismakes the garment more comfortable, however, the flowy ruffle style wasreplaced by a softer peplum lining the top of a fitted body con skirt. This makesthe garment more fashionable and also smarter looking. Slits were also added as after creating the peplum, the model felt restricted when walking in the garment, the two simple slits in the back of the garment made it less restrictive. However the problems that remain are:

-The skirts length still remains too short which would cause un comfort after long periods of wear.

-Although slits were included in the garment, the fitted peplum style of this garment is still uncomfortable to move around a lot in.

-This style of skirt would not be flattering for people with not so curvy or too curvy body shapes.

Client feedback design idea 2cMy client liked the idea of a bottom peplum as she felt this was unique, yet stylish and added extra length to the skirt. However she was not fond of the restriction created by the peplum being situated at the bottom of the garment. She also felt the shape of the skirt did not flatter her body shape. (Going against spec point 2.1)

Construction detailWhen I am constructing this garment I would create a body-con pencil skirt to begin with and then create the peplum separately to attach on to the bottom of the skirt.

Client feedback design idea 3b.My client liked this design she found the black lace to be very appealing and edgy. However she stated that this style may be too casual for work places with stricter dress codes. She was also concerned with how uncomfortable the lace may be when it comes into contact with her skin. (Going against spec point 2.1)Construction detailWhen constructing this garment I would first create a shorter, black mini skirt and then attach the lace from the waist band reaching just below the calves in a high-low style making both fabrics blend into each other.

Developed design idea 3- High-low/Asymmetric skirt

Client feedback design idea 3aAmelia was fond of the pastel pink and purple colours as she thought they were very suitable for the summer and warmer seasons. My client however did not like the several ruffles and felt like this was design idea was only suitable for everyday and casual wear, rather than the work place. (Going against spec point 1.1)Construction detailWhen constructing the garment I would create the shape of the high-low skirt first and then attach the ruffles on to the outer shell separately.

Out of the three Asymmetric skirt developed design ideas I decided on creating design idea 2c as this kept the peplum/ruffles of the original garment but had them situated along the bottom of the garment making it more appropriate to be worn in a school or work place.

ProcessI created an entirely new skirt but kept the elasticated waist and peplum style. I attached the peplum so it lined the edge of the skirt instead creating a unique style.

Client feedback design idea 1cMy client liked this idea the most as she felt this was the most appropriate for the work place. She preferred the single ruffle idea instead of the several ruffles in idea 3a. However, my client felt that if this garment is made it should be produced out of darker coloured materials such as black or dark blue. (Fulfilling spec point 1.1)Construction detail:When constructing this garment I would create a simple midi skirt and then cut an asymmetric shape around the bottom. I would then create a ruffle separately and attach it around the bottom of the skirt.

Explanation of the pictures: The first picture shows the front of the asymmetrical skirt and the shortest length it reaches, the second picture beside it shows the back of the skirt, showing the longest length the skirt reaches and how the ruffle fully wraps around the base of the skirt. The bottom and third picture is a close up of the front view of the ruffle at the base of the skirt showing the subtle style of it.

Process and problem with asymmetric skirt:

However after creating the asymmetric skirt I still did not feel entirely satisfied with the end product as the skirt now seemed far too long and I was not fond of the peplum style being at the bottom of the garment.

I then decided to combine the developed design idea 2a and the developed design idea 3c creating an asymmetric peplum skirt. I hemmed the garment keeping the asymmetric style but making the skirt a more flattering length, I also removed the peplum and decided on creating a detachable peplum which lined the waist of the garment. This has solved the major problem of the skirts inappropriate short length but has also allowed for the skirt to have a ruffle/peplum style.

Front of skirt Back of skirt

CAD developmentThis is a CAD design development of design idea 2a. Here I have used Photoshop to add in a dark purple polyester material to the peplum lining the top of the garment, and a fuchsia polyester material to the body-con skirt. My client was fond of this development as she found the feminine colours very appealing, she also felt that the darker colours added elegance to the garment making it more suitable to be worn at formal occasions.

CAD developmentThis is a CAD design development of design idea 2a. Here I have used Photoshop to add in a dark Blue polyester material to the peplum lining the top of the garment, and a lighter blue polyester material to the body-con skirt. My client was not overly pleased with this development as she felt the blue colours were unfeminine contrasting with the feminine style of the peplum skirt.

CAD developmentThis is a CAD design development of design idea 2a. Here I have used Photoshop to add in a Black lace material to the peplum lining the top of the garment, and a white/silver lace material to the body-con skirt. This was my clients favourite idea as she was extremely fond of the contrasting lace materials. She felt the simple black and white colours made the skirt very easy to pair up with other garments, and the lace added a sultry vintage appearance to the garment.

Mood board

Developed design idea 4- Improved peplum skirt (detachable peplum)

TestingOn this page I have decided to investigate the fabric I would use for my final product,. The problem with the fabric on my original product was its extremely short length which was unsuitable to to be worn in a school or work environment, the original product also had several ruffles decorating the shell which also seemed too informal for school or work. I have selected a range of fabrics to test therefore insuring that my finished garment meets the needs of young adults and teenagers and is fit to be worn at school or work. I am also going to look at how I have adapted the length and style of the garment so it is more ergonomically friendly for my target market.Ergonomics and Anthropometric dataOne of the main problems of the original skirt was concerning the ergonomics of the garment. This is my reasoning for testing. I wanted to find out exactly how successful the skirt was in allowing my client to move freely and with comfort during prolonged periods of wear during school or work. To test the ergonomic friendliness of my final design Idea I asked a friend to try the toile on, after this I asked her to move around casually as she would if she were in school or at work this included; sitting and standing up, bending down to pick up items and going up and down stairs. She was able to carry out these actions with ease and without restriction from the garment or problems with the length. The anthropometric data are measurements which allow the garment to be made in the best possible, easy way to fit the wearer comfortably. I believe that I have made my toile to fit this. As I have made a size 12 pattern based on the original skirt and then with some adjustments I made it to fit my wearer who is a size 10. This pattern can then be developed for the other sizes that would be made available to the average high-street shopper, due to the elasticated waist and material not much adjustment has to be made to fit larger and smaller sizes.

Testing of FabricsFabric 1: Black LycraFinish: The Lycra has a slightly shiny finish and while this is not very noticeable it still would not be the best choice for a garment made to ben worn in a school or work environment. However, thee fabric is very smooth and has a soft feel fulfilling specification point 2.1.Strength: When over locked this fabric begun to curl a large amount around the edge making it an unsuitable fabric to be used on my skirt. Drape: The Lyca is stretchy but moulds to the shape of the users body meaning any areas of imperfection would be accentuated, this may mean it would not be the best choice for a skirt as its extreme stretch would also make it rise up through out the day causing discomfort for the user.Stretch: To test the stretch of the fabric I pulled the fabric sample in both directions stretching it out and closely looking at its condition after stretching. The Lycra is a stretchy fabric and does not seem restrictive fulfilling specification point 2.1. The fabric seems to return to its original shape after small amounts of stretch, however, after continuous stretching the fabric elongates and looses its shape. Continuously stretching the fabric also made it curl up around the edges.

Fabric 2: Cotton Twill (Heavyweight)Finish:The fabric has a simple, plain matt finish making it a suitable garment to be worn to school or work. However, the fabric itself has a rough feel on the skin meaning it would not be the best choice of fabric to manufacture the skirt from. Strength: When over locked this fabric maintained its shape, however, some fray was noticeable meaning this would not be the best choice of fabric to be used on the skirt.Drape: The fabric is very heavy and stiff, it does not drape well and would therefore not be a good choice for the skirt in my opinion. Stretch:After pulling each side of the fabric I could see the cotton twill was not a stretchy fabric. The fabric does not pull in any direction even after continuous attempts at stretching. This fabric would restrict movement therefore unfulfilling specification point 2.1.

Fabric 3: P.V Fake Leather

Finish: The fake leather fabric still has the same look and feel of real leather, the fabric has some shine and a smooth feel on the skin.Strength: When overclocked this fabric maintained its shape perfectly not fraying or curling at the edges, making it a very suitable fabric to be included in the skirt.Drape: The leather is a stiff fabric, it does not flow or drape freely therefore may not be a good choice for a skirt, however, it may be more suitabe to be used on the peplum of the skirt as the peplum would need to be made out of a fabric that can hold its shape well.Stretch: When pulling each side of the fabric I could see it had minimal stretch, making this more suitable to be used on the peplum rather than the entire skirt. The fabric sample returned to its original shape for the most part as when a stronger force was used the garment seemed to loose some of its original shape. Fabric 4: Plain medium weight crepeFinish: The fabric has a simple matt, black finish, similar to the cotton twill, however the crepe fabric has a softer feel on the skin.StrengthThis fabric behaved similarly to the cotton twill fabric when overlocked, however, the crepe fabric frayed more and the fabric appeared to have lost some shape. Drape: This fabric drapes well as it is not as heavy as leather or the cotton twill, it also feels light and would have been a goof choice for the skirt.Stretch: When stretched, even with stronger force, this material kept its shape completely as this fabric has no stretch. This would mean the fabric would be very restrictive if used for the skirt going against specification point 2.1.

Testing of the final developed idea

Click on each of the videos to play them!

Overall opinions of skirt model

Now that I have made a final model of my skirt, it is time to carry appropriate physical tests to test the strengths and weaknesses of my product. I have also asked the skirt’s model on her opinion of the product allowing me to properly evaluate my final product.

Test 3: Picking item of ground

Test 1: Casual walking around

Test 2: Sitting down

ConclusionStrengthsThe model found the garment easy and comfortable to walk around in, she also added she liked the asymmetrical style of the skirt as this is what allowed the freedom of movement.

Weaknesses/possible improvements However, she felt the skirt was a little loose and would have preferred it to be more fitted as this would compliment the peplum of the skirt more making the garment more appealing. (Specification point 6.1)

ConclusionStrengthsThe model felt that the skirt was comfortable to sit and stand up in as the asymmetrical style of the garment covered the back of her legs properly when sitting down and standing back up. The non-stretchy material of the skirt also meant it did not ride upwards after the process making it more appropriate. (Specification point 1.1)Weaknesses/possible improvementsHowever, she added that when sitting down for longer periods of time she would have preferred a less restrictive material on the garment.

ConclusionStrengthsThe model stated the style of the skirt allowed her to pick up item from the ground without worrying about the length of the garment or the garment rising up also meaning it is appropriate to be worn at school or work.

Weaknesses/possible improvementsShe felt that there were no weaknesses to do with the skirt when bending down and getting back up, however, she suggested making the garment from a fabric with more stretch would aid in making the process more comfortable and less restrictive.

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Design BriefI am going to be improving a skirt that could be worn as part of an everyday outfit or as a party outfit. I am going to improve the garment by making it suitable for larger and smaller sizes by including an elasticated waist, also making the garment more comfortable and easier to wear as no annoying components are needed. I will also be extending the length of the skirt as it is currently extremely short and some people may not feel comfortable wearing a garment of such length.

Testing against the specification

1) Functional (8/10)1.1 In my specification I stated that the skirt is to be worn in a school or work environment and

therefore has to be dark in colour, I have met this specification point as I made my final product out of a black fabric which is more likely to agree with a school/work place dress code. I also stated that for the skirt to be suitable for such an environment it needs to be of a good length, I believe I have met this requirement as I created an asymmetrical style skirt meaning it keeps a shorter length but is not inappropriate as it is longer at the back of the garment.

1.2 I believe I have met this specification point but to an extent, as I have attempted to make the skirt aesthetically appealing though choosing a simple, plain black coloured fabric however, combining the peplum and asymmetric style may not appeal to teenagers and young adults.

2) Materials (9/10)2.1 I believe I have met this specification point as I chose a comfortable. Medium weight fabric

making the garment comfortable to be worn for longer periods of time, however, I could have chosen a material with more stretch such as lycra for further comfort.

2.2 I have met this specification point as my garment is made from a recyclable polyester fabric.2.3 The fabric I have chosen for the final garment is widely available and cheap to use for

manufacture also meaning the garment it self becomes cheaper.2.4 I feel I have met this specification point to some extent as I used faux leather for the peplum of

the skirt which Is a durable material, however, for the main section of the skirt I used a medium weight crepe material which may not be so durable after long wear.

2.5 I have met this specification point as the crepe material is washable and this makes up the main section of the skirt, the peplum is made from a faux leather material which is not machine washable, however, the peplum can be removed when the user requires to watch the skirt.

3) Cost (10/10)3.1 The crepe material I have chosen is simple and widely available, making the garment an

affordable price for teenagers and young adults.3.2 I feel like the skirt has a simple enough design to be manufactured without a very skilled, highly

paid workforce, the garment also has very little component and no intricate parts meaning it will not be expensive to manufacture.

3.3 Here I stated the garment should not cost more than £20 as it will be sold on the high street, I do not know how much this garment will exactly cost as I am not selling it in high street shops, however, after manufacturing this myself I believe it would cost under £20.

4) Ergonomics/Ease of use (9/10)4.1 I have not met this specification point as I did not make the garment one size but decided on

making it size 10.4.2 I made sure to include an elasticated waist on my garment for extra comfort for the user,

meeting this specification point.4.3 The skirt has an elasticated waist making it easy to put on and of, the peplum of the skirt is

removable and can be undone through un-buttoning, also an easy component to use, however, a magnetic button may have been easier to open and close.

5) Manufacturing (10/10)5.1 Due to the little components and difficult parts this skirt has it would be quick to manufacture.6) Aesthetics (8/10)6.1 I feel like I have met this specification point to an extent, I have made an asymmetrical skirt with a peplum, both of these styles of skirt are in fashion and I believe would appeal t teenagers/young adults, however, combining both styles may not make the garment so appealing.6.2 I have met this specification point through making the garment from a black coloured material.7) Moral issues 7.1 The garment is made from a crepe fabric which is made from polyester meaning that despite not being bio degradable it can still be recycled in to plastic bottles and such.7.2 I have met this specification point as I have only use faux leather and a medium weight crepe material to manufacture this garment, I also made sure to not cut excessive material so I did not waste material.7.3 If this garment were to be manufactured in factories I would make sure it were fair trade.

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MANUFACTUER: As my garment is more likely to be sold for just one season I would have it batch produced, it is not an everyday basic clothing item nor is it a one off limited edition garment therefore batch production would be the most suitable type of manufacture. Even after the modifications made I still believe the garment would not require highly skilled workers to manufacture as there are not many complicated and intricate components in the skirt. However if demand for the skirt rises I may think about just in time production so there is less wastage as if the demand is low one month then they are not going to have too much stock on the shop floor or visa versa.

QUALITY CONTROL AND ASSURANCE/HEALTH AND SAFETY: To ensure that the garment is made safely and the workers are protected they must follow a certain procedure. This means that they must wear the correct equipment when working with certain machinery, for example, chainmesh gloves when using the band saw and googles. As for the potential customers the garment must be thoroughly checked to ensure that it was made correctly and not include anything that could cause harm to the wearer. This will mean that it has to undergo certain checks in order for the garment to pass as fit for selling, this will go on when the garment is being made at the end of every station or at the end of a batch.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES:As my garment will be sold on the high street it will most likely be manufactured in a third world country such as India and therefore would have to be shipped or transported through aeroplane harming the environment through increasing pollution levels, however, my garment will give back to the environment at the end of its lifecycle as it is made from a polyester material which is non=-biodegradable but recyclable and could be recycled into plastic bottles.

MARKETING:How I would plan to market my garment if it was to be taken further would be to below the line advertising. This would be things like women's magazines like, heat and closer, in the fashion sections. I would also use online advertising as I think it would be one of the best ways of reaching to my target market. I also think the garment should be positioned on a mannequin in the section of the store where the stock pretty much always remains the same. This will mean that the customers attention will be drawn to this and displaying ways on how the skirt could be worn with other garments and accessories

ConclusionUltimately I believe that my garment will be a success as I believe I have tackled the large issues surrounding my original garment; I have made the skirt of a suitable length to be worn in a school or work environment by making it an asymmetric style, I have also made it more comfortable through removing the chiffon fabric and using a more comfortable, softer fabric on the skin. I have also changed the fastening of the garment making the waist elasticated instead of a zip component this not only makes the skirt easier to put on and take off but also more comfortable to be worn for longer periods of time.

Explanation of pictureAbove is a detailed sketch of my design idea after all the modification have been made, it still looks mostly similar to my final design idea with a few adjustments to the style of the peplum and stretch of the fabric. I have also included a close up image of the magnetic button fastening which is now located at the front of the peplum.

Final modificationFinal ProposalAfter much consideration and conversation with my client I have decided to take forward more than one modification to improve the skirt, however the modifications I will be making are subtle as I am pleased with my final design overall and therefore believe that there is not too much room for improvement. Firstly I have decided to change the fabric of the skirt as the fabric I used for the final design, a medium weight crepe fabric, had no stretch and my garment needs to be able to stretch and fit the users body comfortable to fully fulfil specification point 2.1. I would most likely use a normal polyester fabric with some elastane providing stretch, I would not use a fabric such as lycra as I believe this to be far too stretchy resulting in the garment constantly riding up the users legs.

My next modification would be focused on the peplum, my client claimed while she was fond of the peplum she thought it were too large and would have preferred a more subtle peplum style which she also believe would make it more appropriate for the work place. I have finally decided to include a small magnetic button as the fastening for the peplum as this would make it easier to take on and off and is less likely to fall of and need re-sewing such as a normal button, this will also be properly fulfilling specification point 4.3.