estetica sa 19th edition
DESCRIPTION
Each Estetica magazine will transport you into a world of vision, imagination and pure luxury. Every page, photograph, story and visual experience is an inspiration. Allow yourself to indulge in the latest trends while broadening your knowledge. Estetica South Africa is printed four times a year and is a high-gloss magazine with over 120 pages dedicated entirely to the latest trends from the world of hair, fashion and beauty. Estetica has a strong connection to the South African beauty industry, allowing you to receive in-depth news and information of the major issues and trends that affect the business, which makes Estetica South Africa an essential professional tool. The International Section contained in each edition, provides the reader with important hair and beauty exposure, showcase gorgeous hair collections from world renowned hairdressers and the hottest international trends in fashion and beauty.TRANSCRIPT
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19/12
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LOOKSWonder Women
FEATURESalon Décor, Design and Equipment
INTERVIEWSDavid Gillson
N° 19/12 EDITION
cover layout19.indd 1 2012/08/21 12:48 PM
Katy Perry for ghd. Call 0860 109 366 for more information. ghd V gold now available in the finest salons and ghdhair.com
AW821_SA gold_Katy DPS Estetica Africa.indd All Pages 08/08/2012 15:25
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 00Katy Perry for ghd. Call 0860 109 366 for more information. ghd V gold now available in the finest salons and ghdhair.com
AW821_SA gold_Katy DPS Estetica Africa.indd All Pages 08/08/2012 15:25
For more information about Dualsenses Green True Color, contact your Goldwell representative or phone 011 312 5070 (JHB), 012 551 3010 (CT), or 031 566 5765 (DBN) | www.goldwell.com
INNOVATION
SEE THE DIFFERENCE. FEEL THE DIFFERENCE. MAKE THE DIFFERENCE.INGREDIENTS FROM 100% CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTION.
Dualsenses Green True Color
E D I T O R I A L
FOREVER, VIDAL!The passing of hairstyling legend, Vidal Sassoon, marked a sad day for the hairdressing industry. A living legend for as long as he was with us and unforgettable now that he looks down upon us from above. Vidal Sassoon was credited with creating a simple geometric, ‘Bauhaus-inspired’ hairstyle, also called the wedge bob.
His style and popularity allowed him to open the first chain of worldwide hair styling salons.Unfortunately his illness got the better of him. Last February, on Facebook, his message reached fans worldwide: “Life is precious and I’m enjoying every moment of it. Every moment of it”. The world of hairdressing, and others, have flooded the web with images, memories, dedications and thoughts. ESTETICA SA has dedicated this edition to the late legend and included a tribute, pages 39-45, to honour his legacy. Hairstylists from around the world share their special moments, stories and experiences of working, meeting or being inspired by him. Another must-read in this edition is the Salon Décor, Design and Equipment feature on pages 87-107. Choosing the correct lighting, basins, chairs, décor and trying to maximise your space when designing a salon is no small task. In this feature, ESTETICA SA addresses the important issues salon owners are faced with when designing or renovating a salon. Read up on exclusive interviews with top local stylists about conceptualising and designing a salon and the mistakes incurred along the way.Let us take inspiration from Vidal Sassoon’s lifes work and all he achieved by trying to implement his words as a motto in your salon: “If you don’t look good, we don’t look good!”
See Tribute to Vidal page 39
Cindy HortonEditor
Due to the popularity of his styles he was described as a craftsman who ‘changed the world with a pair of scissors’.
ed letter19.indd 3 2012/08/20 10:32 AM
Salon: Mahogany HairdressingHair: Colin Greaney, International
Creative DirectorColour: Tai Walker &
Michalla RyderPhotography: Andrew Ogilvy
Make-up: Rosie ScottClothes styling: Chloe Holland
Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl,
Turin/Italy
Published byTopco Media
2nd Floor
Bree Street Studios
17 New Church Street
Cape Town
Ph: 086 000 9590
Fax: 021 423 7876
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.estetica.co.za
STAFFPublisher
Richard Fletcher
General ManagerVan Fletcher
EditorCindy Horton
Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton
DesignJayne Macé
Advertising & Business Development Manager
Lizel Jonker
CONTRIBUTORSPrinters
Paarl Media Paarl
F A S H I O N
8 Catwalks Dream Journeys
12 Catwalks Cape Town Fashion Week
14 History Olympic Looks
18 Campaign Iconic Decades
20 Looks Wonder Women
24 Interiors Over the Rainbow
27 Beauty Women
29 Beauty Men
30 Trends Easily Gorgeous
34 Vision Holy Chic
C O N T E N TESTETICA FASHION N°. 19/12 – NINETEENTH EDITION 2012
Androgyynous styles contradict soft pastel tones and innocent side parting for an ethereal texture.
contents 19.indd 2 2012/08/20 9:17 AM
M O D A : I N T E R N A T I O N A L T R E N D S
39 Vidal Sassoon Tribute
46 Looking Good
50 Living Colour
54 Urban Vibe
58 The College Way
62 Fashion Notes
66 Before the Storm
70 Rebel Rebel
74 Deep Inspired
78 Warrior Glam
82 Movie Divas
P R O F E S S I O N A L
87 Feature Salon Décor, Design and Equipment
88 Dossier Salon Feng Shui
92 Retail Boosting Aftercare
98 Interview Shelene Shaer
100 Interview Frank Fowden
102 Interview David Gillson
104 Survey Tooling Around
108 Advertorial Sharplines
109 Event Masked Launch
110 Event Styling Champs
112 Focus Reality Shoots
114 Agenda Calendar
119 Advertorial no!no!
120 News Report
124 Products Reviews
127 Subscriptions
128 Stockists
ESTETICA FASHION N°. 19/12 – NINETEENTH EDITION 2012
Everything seems fairly-like. Even the hair, first scraped with pink, then enchained by unruly, slighty hippy waves.
contents 19.indd 3 2012/08/20 9:18 AM
KNY’s fall collection may have been “inspired by the Beat Generation” but the look was quintessentially 21st century New York.
Tailoring with leather trims worn with narrow creased trousers, flirty leather skirts and dark floral prints added to the hard-edged refinement. “The DKNY collection is always a great barometer of New York style,” says Eugene Souleiman, WELLA Global Creative Director who completed the forecast with a base of glossy, pin straight hair, deeply side-parted and drawn into low ponytails. To complement the collection’s clean shapes, says Souleiman, “We gave the hair very straight edges and kept it flat to the head, for a small silhouette.” Peter Som delivered a collection filled with sex appeal and strong, strict shapes for confident women. The subtle reveal of sheer banded organza dresses juxtaposed sculptural jackets and tops with exaggerated drop shoulders worn with body hugging bottoms. “I wanted a precision and crispness,” explains Som. “Everyone wants to feel strong and sexy.” The tension between sex appeal and restraint was evident in Souleiman’s side parted styles. Long hair was made small and sleek at the crown and sides and moved into a textured and wild fullness at the ends. Ponytails were sleek to the head with full tails. Som’s message: strong shapes for strong women. At Jeremy Scott, the models wore sweat suits and body con dresses and leggings printed with computer screens and IM emoticons. The plot? That the present is the past is the present. Since style is a mash-up of new and old imagery that’s filtered through a Google search, you might as well throw on a candy coloured print and get on with your day. “I was inspired by 3D, geometry and technology. I wanted the girls to look like their own computer Avatars,” says Soueliman. The result: wigs cut with hyper sharp edges, short bangs and flouro-bright splashes of colour that enhanced the multi–hued palette of Scott’s collection.
Dream Journeys
D
Sharp tailoring and leather trims make for sleek and sexy looks.
Nomadic journeys and Judy Garland are just a few of the things inspiring New York designers for Fall. Abandon yourself to your alter-ego. Experiment with a new you. by Kendall Farr
DK
NY
Pete
r Som
Jere
my
Scot
t
Bright and sparkling with
wildly coloured hair or rigid black with
slicked-backhair and bushy
ponytails. The only rule is there are
no rules.
c a t w a l k s
Dream Journeys Wella artists came up with
absolute contrast for very different collections. From sleek heads and wild ponytails for strong women, highlighting the tension between sex appeal and restraint.
Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
Wild wigs with blunt cuts and fluorescent colours
matched the other-worldly and more whimsical looks
by Jeremy Scott.
Photos for Peter Som backstage: Gerardo Somoza
Jere
my
Scot
t
DK
NY
Jere
my
Scot
t
Pete
r Som
photooniPad
E S T E T I C A S O U t H A F R I C A | 9
Chr
is B
enz
Mara Hoffman
Mar
a H
offm
an
Mar
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offm
an
Vivi
enne
Tam
4D journeysAccording to designer Chris Benz “women have come back around to the art of dressing up” as they did in the late 50s and 60s. His muse? His mother as he remembers her getting dressed while watching Judy Garland on television, inspiring the shirtdresses with prim bows, cigarette pants and sweater girl cardigans he showed on the runway. To interpret his theme, TIGI’S Nick Irwin started with acrylic wigs he transformed into deconstructed beehives, perfect for the modern girl who wants to go clubbing in a bouffant update. Mysticism inspires Mara Hoffman to create breezy shapes in her signature screen-prints - this time around with meteorite patterns and tapestry motifs. Wide brimmed Gaucho hats worn over headscarves advanced the southwestern look. Imagining the ‘shaman cowboys’ that inspired the clothes, Irwin center-parted the hair and hand coiled it into tight pin curls. Then, back brushing the coils created the kind of big, Bohemian-looking curl a girl can only get after a wild horse ride through the desert. Vivienne Tam’s designs reference an eclectic mix of textures and patterns and for fall, her outerwear in carpet prints worn over jewel toned, satin evening looks were all inspired by an adventuress on a Mongolian journey. To capture her nomad spirit, Irwin designed a style with a deep center part, straightened from root to jaw line. Back-brushing the hair from jaw line to ends created a windblown texture and a statement–making volume. “It perfectly captured the east-meets-west spirit of the collection,” he adds.So this Fall, we’ll dress up to embrace our inner 60s-era housewife (again). We’ll wear pieces inspired by desert-dwelling ‘Shaman Gauchos’ and glamorous-looking nomads climbing in the Himalayas. One cohesive trend emerged: anything goes. What helps define the look of a fashion collection however, is hairstyling, that unifies the designer’s narrative with the silhouettes and the teams from WELLA and TIGI worked styling magic for many of the week’s hottest shows creating directional looks worth imitating.
Channel your innerJudy Garland and take a journey to a far-off land.
C A T W A L K S
Time travel and globalism inspiredthe TIGI team to create eclecticcoifs for three very different shows. Deconstructed vintage, futuristic Bohemian, and east-meets-west.
Vivi
enne
Tam
Feth
erst
on
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
fashion week USA 2 12.indd 5 2012/08/20 12:15 PM
nternational hair fashion brand ghd ensured all models were styled to perfection at the recent Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town
(MBFWCT), following the announcement of their three year partnership with AFI. Jennifer Chatburn, ghd Regional Educator and one of the lead stylists at MBFWCT, says the traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback for Spring/Summer 2013. “This classic was reinterpreted by keeping it sleek, adding defined twists, twirling the pony into a chignon very low down in the neck or creating messy curls to add volume and texture.” To get the Rosenworth and Philosophy look, section and curl the hair with a ghd Gold Classic styler using large sections which have been prepared using ghd Style Curl Hold Spray. Soften the curls by turning the head upside-down and shaking out the curls, pulling your fingers through the hair. Create the ponytail by softly twisting four sections together and fastening loosely, keeping the ponytail soft and low. Pull out a few pieces to make the look slightly messy, gently rouging the pony and securing with ghd Style Final Fix Hairspray. This look was tweaked for the Selfi, August and Black Coal shows by adding a more defined twist on the side. “Other trends coming through on the catwalk for Craig Port and Thula Sindi were strong, combed out waves rather than curls as well as a new age version of the 60s beehive for Michelle Ludek,” says Shawn Nicholas, Co-Owner of Synergy Hair Intercoiffure. “This look added volume to the sides rather than the top, refreshing the style and giving it an updated feel. Fishtail plaits were seen at the Lalesso show while the classic bob for KlûK CGDT owed its volume and staying power to the new ghd salon strength hair dryer, ghd air.”
Catwalk
TrendsI
Hairstylists from ghd styled up a storm at this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town. Ponytails, soft waves and
fishtail plaits set the trend for the summer season.
The traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback.
Selfi
Ros
enw
erth
Philo
soph
y
fashion week ct 19.indd 2 2012/08/20 12:03 PM
C A T W A L K S
Pete
r Jen
sen
The traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
ghd stylists created romantically inspired hairstyles. Soft curls and low ponytails featured in most shows.
Ros
enw
erth
Thul
a Si
ndi
Lale
sso
Mic
helle
Lud
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Catwalk photos: SDR Photography
fashion week ct 19.indd 3 2012/08/20 12:03 PM
Olympic
looks One hundred years of Olympics have marked the history of sport, revealing an evolution in looks. In thesephotos we can see how customs have changed.
1908LONDONDanish gymnast
Iconic AthletesSport, energy, strength. All alpha-male elements. But also all good
reasons for women in the early twentieth century to get keen on athleticism. Relying on their own
strength in their own work and demonstrating this strength in their
look. Shorter hair for practical reasons but also a sign of a new femininity, all-conscious and free.
1908LONDON
Danish gymnasts
1928AMSTERDAM
Martha Norelius, Olympic Gold
400m Freestyle1924PARIS
Florence Chambers
1912STOCKHOLM
R. D. Clarke and Craig Moore
1936BERLINSwimming champions: K. Rawls, M. Hoerger Champion Diver, L. Kight and E. Kompa
1936BERLINJack Lovelock, Gold Medal for the 1 500 metres
14 | E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
olimpiadi USA 2 12 (4 pp).indd 2 2012/08/20 10:33 AM
1940TokyoThe Games were cancelled and did not go to Tokyo until 1964
1948Londonolympics opening Ceremony
H I S T O r Y
1936BerLinFour American athletes
1948London
Back row: P. H. A. rennard, d. Smith and d. Hay. Front row: coach Pollard,
C. Bell and i. Hurst
1968MexiCo CiTyUS sprinter John Carlos
1968GrenoBLe
American figure skater Peggy Fleming,
Gold Medal
1964TokyoVera Caslavska, Gold Medal in the individual Beam Competition, T. Manina and L. Latynina
photooniPad
1924CHAMonix
Herma Planck-Szabo, Women’s Figure
Skating Gold Medal
1968MexiCo CiTyCzech Vera Caslavska on the beam. She won four Gold Medals
1996AtlAntAJamie Baulch in action in the 4x400m
Athletes and Olympics. Icons in globalevolution, from the early twentieth century to the present day: an unusual collective view.
This desire for short hair became less intense as time went on,
giving way to neat waves in the Fifties, irregular updo’s in the
Sixties, right up to the totally free Afro-pride of the early Seventies. It
wasn’t till the Nineties that more unequivocal hairstyles arrived –
showing how an athlete is also a person, even more, a celebrity.
Hair-fashion compensates for the imposition of standardised outfits.
Sport goes glam.
1976InnsBruck
Dorothy Hamill in the center,
Gold Medal skating competition
1996AtlAntA
the usA 4x100 relay team, Gold Medal
1984lOs AnGeles
carl lewis,Gold Medal Men’s
long Jump
1976MOntreAl
nadia comaneci on the balance beam,
three Gold Medals
1976MOntreAl
D. nightingale, A. Parker, A. Archibald and s. J.
Fox, Gold Medal in the Modern Pentathlon
2000SydneyAudley Harrison, Gold in the Men’s 91kg Boxing
H I S T O r Y
2000Sydney
M. Raquil with J. Baulch, Men’s
4x400m Relay Final
2008BeiJinG
Melaine Walker, Gold for the Women’s
400m Hurdles
2012London oLyMpicSWho will be the olympics look icon this summer?
1996AtLAntA
Gail devers, Women’s 100m Heats
1996AtLAntAeunice Barber
2000Sydney
Marion Jones, Women’s 100m Heats
2004AtHenSphillips idowu, Men’s triple Jump
2004AtHenSMatthew elias, Men’s 4x400m Relay Final
Phot
os: G
etty
Imag
es
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17
ay-Ban Legends tells the history and the spirit of 75 years of Never Hide: the courage to be yourself and freely express your beliefs
and personality. Shot by photographer Mark Seliger in California at the end of January, the campaign frames seven legendary moments (one per decade), each inspired by a real life and particularly iconoclastic figure. “My first pair of sunglasses was Ray-Bans. So when they approached me to shoot the 75th anniversary campaign, it seemed like the ultimate creative dream,” says Mark. “It was one of those opportunities that don’t come around too often, and I really enjoyed being a part of the creative team. Our Creative Director Erik Vervroegen proposed scenarios that were photographic, iconic, controversial and fun, and it seemed like the perfect fit for what I
do and what the Ray-Ban brand represents,” continues Mark.In keeping with the Never Hide spirit, the seven figures unconsciously broke through barriers; their eyes were open while the world’s were closed. A group of pilots, the Blue Devils, in the 1930s; a writer’s ‘relationship’ in the heart of America in the 1940s; a singer songwriter who worked with Elvis Presley in the 1950s; an English socialite in the 1960s; a boy and girl falling in love during a protest in the 1970s; the nightlife of three girls in the 1980s, and a courageous rapper in the 1990s. Ray-Ban was awarded with two Gold Lions at the Cannes Lions 59th International Festival of Creativity 2012 in the Press Lions category in the sections Clothing, Footwear and Accessories and Photography for the Ray-Ban Legends Communication Campaign.
Iconic
DecadesR
Ray-Ban celebrates their 75th anniversary with a legendary campaign. Seven photographs capture iconic
moments in time, inspired by ordinary people.
18 | E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
C A M P A I G N
Icons and legends of the past, present and future: this is the key message of Ray-Ban Legends.