Foster Care Handbook2014

Welcome to the Elmbrook Humane Society’s Foster Program!The mission of the Elmbrook Humane Society is to promote the human-animal bond through adoption and education, to provide shelter to homeless animals, and to prevent animal cruelty and neglect.

Foster parents help us in our mission by providing temporary care for cats, kittens, dogs, and puppies who may not be ready for adoption for medical or behavioral reasons. These animals recuperate more rapidly in a home environment and may have a greater opportunity to be socialized than they do at our shelter.

Fosters should be an enriching and enjoyable experience for you and your family. This manual is designed to guide you through the foster process, but we are here to help and available to answer any questions as they arise.

History:

Incorporated in 1964, the Elmbrook Humane Society (EBHS) was started by a group of caring individuals, led by Gertrude Bergmann. With humble beginnings, this dedicated group of volunteers used an old school bus to pick up stray animals and care for them in their homes. Their effort grew into using an old garage for an animal shelter and ultimately led to building a shelter in 1976. At that time, shelter volunteers cared for fewer than 500 animals each year. After almost 25 years in the same facility, EBHS cared for over 1,500 animals each year. In 2004, EBHS moved into a newly renovated facility that improves the quality of life of the animals we care for and offers warm and welcoming environment to visitors. Today, with the help of over 200 volunteers, the shelter cares for over 2,500 animals each year and is now able to offer valuable educational programs onsite to the community.Thank you for joining our wonderful team of foster families! Your help will allow us to care for even more animals in the years to come.

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THAT THE EBHS RARELY HAS A PAST HISTORY ON ANY ANIMAL THAT YOU MAY FOSTER. THE INCUBATION PERIOD (TIME THAT AN ANIMAL IS HARBORING A VIRUS WITHOUT SYMPTOMS) FOR MOST VIRUSES IS 7-14 DAYS. THERE IS A POSSIBILTY THAT, ALTHOUGH YOUR FOSTER (S) MAY APPEAR HEALTHY AND HAPPY, HE/SHE COULD BE INCUBATING A VIRUS AND BECOME ILL IN YOUR HOME. THE MOST COMMON VIRUSES WE SEE ARE UPPER RESPIRATORY INFECTIONS (RHINOTRACHEITIS OR CALICIVIRUS) IN CATS AND KENNEL COUGH IN DOGS. THERE ARE MORE SERIOUS BUT LESS COMMON VIRUSES THAT COULD RESULT IN SEVERE ILLNESS OR EVEN DEATH IF YOUR PETS ARE EXPOSED. FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL PET(S) SAFETY PLEASE KEEP YOUR FOSTER ANIMALS IN A CONFINED AREA AWAY FROM YOUR OWN PETS AT HOME.

Contact Information:

We require you to contact us to make an appointment before you visit the shelter for foster pick-ups, drop-offs, and veterinarian exams. Questions are sure to arise at some point during your time foster(s) and we welcome any inquiries you might have. For questions about foster(s) please contact via email:

Megan MichalosShelter Operations ManagerElmbrook Humane Societymegan@ebhs.org

Amber HaddoxShelter Operations Assistant ManagerElmbrook Humane Societyamber@ebhs.org

When you need to get in touch with us directly, who you call will depend on the reason and time.For general questions and information please call the shelter during office hours. Megan Michalos is available by phone or in person Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Amber Haddox is available Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Thursday. If possible please call or email before coming in to the shelter.

Office Hours:Mon-Fri 9-6 PMSaturday 9-5 PMSunday 10-5 PM

Phone: (262)782-9261 Fax: (262)782-3356 Shelter Email: elmbrookhs@ebhs.org

In case of an emergency after hours please contact our After-Hours Emergency Number at 262.893.8189.

UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES DO NOT TAKE YOUR FOSTER ANIMAL TO A VETERINARIAN WITHOUT APPROVAL FROM AN EBHS STAFF MEMBER. EBHS WILL NOT REIMBURSE YOU FOR MEDICAL EXPENSES FROM AN UNAUTHORIZED VET VISIT.

Foster Volunteer Job Description:Job Summary:

Foster volunteers care for the EBHS animals in their own home under the supervision of the Foster Care Program staff. The period of foster care depends on the severity of the animal’s problem and typically ranges from several days to several weeks. *Please note: occasionally we will have animals that will need to be placed in foster care for over a year due to extensive medical or behavior problems (hospice care). Please let the Shelter Operations Manager know if you are interested in fostering one of these animals.

Responsibilities:

Provide care and treatment of fosters as instructed by EBHS Ensure the safety of all fosters under their care Isolate fosters from the household pets, if instructed Report any problems to the Shelter Operations Manager Ensure all owned pets have up-to-date vaccines and are sterilized Be familiar with EBHS Foster Program policies Transport the foster animal to and from EBHS as required

Qualifications:

Background in animal care Familiarity in handling animals is preferred Must own home (unless approved by the Shelter Operations Manager) Be at least 18 years of age Have enough time to dedicate to the animal(s) in foster

Preparing for Your Foster(s):RECEIVING THE CALL/EMAIL:

a. The Shelter Operations Manager or EBHS staff member will call or email you to inform you of an animal that is available for fostering.

b. If you agree to take the foster(s) home, we will make an appointment with you to arrange to pick up your foster(s). A prolonged shelter stay may compromise the animal’s health and the health of other animals in the shelter, so we ask that you pick up your foster(s) as soon as possible.

c. When you meet with the Shelter Operations Manager or EBHS staff member, they will provide you with specific instructions for your foster(s) (medication, feeding schedule, rest, etc.)

PREPARING YOUR HOME:Once you agree to foster an animal, it is time to prepare the area that the animal(s) will be kept in.

DECIDE WHERE THE ANIMAL(S) WILL BE KEPT:

a. Choose a well-ventilated area that is out of the main flow of traffic. A spare bedroom or a lesser-used bathroom (with a window) is a good option. Remember that while the space you provide may seem small compared to what your own animal(s) are used to, even a bathroom will provide the animal with more space than a cage at the shelter would.

b. The floors in your chosen room should be easily cleaned. Hardwood floors, tile and linoleum are all easily sanitized.

c. Keep your own animal(s) away from the foster(s) to reduce stress on all animals and to ensure that your own animals remain free of contagious diseases. Your foster(s) may be harboring an illness that could be contagious to other pets.

d. Remember to pick up/remove anything valuable you may have in the room where your foster(s) will be kept.

NECESSARY SUPPLIES (FELINE):

a. A separate dish for water, hard food, and canned food is necessary. If you have multiple fosters, have multiple dishes so none of the fosters have to compete for food. It is important to keep your litter pan as far away from food and water as possible.

b. The shelter can supply food initially for your foster(s). It is best to use the same brand of food consistently to prevent upset stomach/diarrhea. Felines under a year should receive kitten food. It is best to avoid foods with artificial coloring (meow

mix, friskies etc). They are sometimes hard to digest and can cause health problems down the road. Canned food should also be provided for your feline foster(s).

c. Kittens should have shallow litter pans for easier access. If you have multiple fosters, you will need more than one litter pan.

d. Always use non-clumping litter for kittens under the age of 6 months. Kittens tend to play in their litter and may accidentally ingest it, which will lead to immediate problems in their digestive tract.

e. Nursing mothers need a very quiet and comfortable place to look after their little ones. They should have comfortable blankets to nest in with their offspring. Keep a stock of old linens, as they will have to be changed often. Set up a nest for the animals in a warm and ventilated spot away from high-volume traffic and noise.

f. Cats/kittens like to feel a sense of security. Provide them a carrier or crate (with no door) or a box on its side. This is also very helpful for shy cats/kittens.

g. A scratching post or cardboard scratch pad is necessary to help prevent improper scratching from your foster(s).

h. Toys are obviously enjoyable for your feline foster(s), and are also used as a learning tool. Toys are great for exercise and mental stimulation. Make sure to give your foster(s) appropriate sized toys and do make sure they will not become choking hazards.

*When your feline foster(s) arrive introduce them to the room, litter pan, food and water. Give the foster(s) time to settle in and try not to overwhelm them with too many noises or visitors during the first few days.

NECESSARY SUPPLIES (CANINE):

a. A leash and collar are necessary for handling your foster(s) safely when out for walks or commuting to/from the shelter.

b. The shelter can supply food initially for your foster(s). It is best to use the same brand of food consistently to prevent upset stomach/diarrhea. Canines under a year should receive puppy food. It is best to avoid foods with artificial coloring (kibbles n bits, ol roy etc). They are sometimes hard to digest and can cause health problems down the road. Canned food should also be provided for your canine foster(s).

c. A separate dish for water, hard food and canned food is necessary. If you have multiple fosters, have multiple dishes so none of the fosters have to compete for food. We recommend you use stainless steel dishes to help prevent disease transmission.

d. Puppy pads may be necessary during the housetraining process with your foster(s). There is a chance the foster(s) may be housetrained, but assume that they will not be. If your foster exceeds ten pounds, outdoor training is recommended.

e. We highly recommend using a crate for your canine foster(s). The crate serves as a quiet resting place for dogs and many people who may adopt your foster(s) will likely crate train. In addition, you may find a crate helpful when you foster to keep them confined when they are left alone and at night. You can also use a crate to feed your foster to prevent competition for food.

*We recommend that dogs sleep in the crate provided at night and during the day when they are left alone. A crate is an essential tool for housetraining and will prevent destructive behaviors brought on by boredom or anxiety while you are away. Children should be discouraged from playing inside the crate, for their safety and because it is designed to serve as a quiet and safe resting place for your foster(s). Crating should never be used as a form of punishment.

f. Toys are obviously enjoyable for your canine foster(s) and are also used as a learning tool. Toys are great for exercise and mental stimulation. Make sure to give your foster(s) appropriate sized toys and do make sure they will not become choking hazards.

*Your foster(s) may initially be very stressed. Do not take it personally if your foster(s) is shy/scared. It is very important to give them some time to adjust and become more comfortable in this new environment. Gradually he/she will learn to trust you and will soon be looking for attention. Do not introduce many people to your foster(s) the first few days to help reduce stress and allow an adjustment period.

Training:

Training should begin right when you get your foster(s) home. Teaching your foster(s) good habits and manners increases their chances of adoption and staying in their forever home. Please remember that not all adopters are going to want their pets on the furniture/bed, so keep things like this in mind while training. If you feel you need help training or are having issues, please contact the shelter or mention it to your case worker.

Disease Control:

By confining your foster(s), you will help control possible contagious diseases. Although confining them may seem cruel, it is imperative to keeping both them and your pets healthy. All dishes, towels, blankets, beds, litter boxes, and toys should be washed in a 1:10 dilution of bleach and water to prevent the spread of disease on those objects. For puppies and dogs, clean up stool immediately following

elimination. DO NOT forget to wash your hands after handling your foster and change clothes if necessary.

A case worker will call or e-mail you every week for an update. At that time you may discuss non-emergency issues related to health and behavior of the animal and help us to determine whether the animal is ready to come back to the shelter. If you have questions at any time, please call us! (Please refer to the Contact Information section of the handbook).

Administering Medication:

Administering medication to your foster(s) may be necessary. Medications come in many different forms and proper administration is essential for the animal to receive the maximum benefit from the prescribed treatment. Medications should always be given for the full amount of time prescribed, even if your foster(s) start to show signs of improvement.

TABLETS AND CAPSULES:

a. Pills and capsules are administered by mouth.b. When giving pills, try first by putting it in a small piece of cheese, hotdog,

canned food, or other meat (these methods don’t usually work on cats).c. A tablet can be crushed and the powder can be put into canned food.d. If the food does not work, tilt the animal’s head back with one hand while

gently opening its mouth and dropping the pill into the back of the throat with your other hand. Gently hold the animal’s mouth closed, with its head pointed straight up, and gently rub the throat in a downward motion or blow on its nose to encourage the swallowing reflex.

LIQUIDS:

a. For Cats: tilt the head back, open the mouth and slowly dispense the liquid from a syringe or dropper onto the back of the cat’s tongue. It is easiest to do this by putting the syringe into the side of the cat’s mouth. (“scruffing” the cat may be necessary with those who do not like the taste of the medication).

b. If the cat is eating well, the liquid can be mixed into their food. If this route is taken, make sure all of the food is consumed.

c. For dogs: liquids may be administered in one of three ways. You can tilt the dog’s head back, open its mouth and dribble the liquid onto the back of its tongue with a dropper or syringe. Or you may tilt the dog’s head back slightly, hook the side of its cheek out to form a pouch and slowly dribble the liquid into the pouch with a syringe or dropper, allowing the dog time to swallow. Sometimes the dogs will do best if the medication is mixed into canned food.

PASTES:

a. For dogs or cats: The easiest way to administer a paste is to place the appropriate amount as a ribbon on your finger, open the animal’s mouth and smear the paste on the roof of its mouth.

b. For cats: an alternative method is to place the paste on her front leg so she will lick it off. (Since the dosage isn’t always accurate this way, only use this method for medications that don’t have to be measured exactly.)

OINTMENTS, DROPS AND CREAMS:

a. Eyes: to administer ointment, tilt the animal’s head back slightly, squeeze a small amount of ointment inside the lower eyelid and close the eye to distribute the ointment evenly over the surface of the eye. When administering drops or ointment to a cat, it may be necessary to have someone assist you by holding the cat, or you may want to wrap the cat securely in a towel.

b. Ears: Grasp the tip of the ear with one hand and hold the ear flag perpendicular to the head. With the other hand, drop in the prescribed number of drops or amount of ointment. Continue to hold the ear firmly to prevent the head from shaking and massage the base of the ear to work the medication down inside the ear canal. Again, when administering drop or ointment to a cat, you may need assistance or may find it useful to first wrap the cat securely in a towel.

CHECKING TEMPERATURE:

A cat’s normal temperature range is from 100-102.5°F (37.78-39.17°C)A dog’s normal temperature range is from 101-102.5°F (38.33-39.17°C)

In rare instances, we may ask you to take the temperature of your foster if you suspect a fever or to monitor the health of young animals and their mother. If you are uncomfortable with taking your foster’s temperature, we will do it at the shelter.

We recommend using a digital thermometer, since it provides a clearer reading and is more durable than a glass thermometer.

To take your foster’s temperature:

1. Lubricate the end of a rectal thermometer (or use a lubricated cover).2. Insert the thermometer into the animal’s rectum and wait for the thermometer to beep.3. Clean the thermometer.Contact us immediately if your foster’s temperature is out of the normal range.

Bottle Babies:Bottle Babies require the most time and commitment of all foster animals. Animals under 4weeks of age are considered ‘bottle babies’ and are dependent on their caregiver for all their needs.

HOUSING FOR BOTTLE BABIES:

Bottle babies should be kept in an appropriate sized plastic crate. Clean and warm bedding should be provided for warmth and comfort. Bedding should be changed quite often. Babies under 3 weeks of age have difficulty regulating their own body temperature. You will need to provide some sort of warmth for your foster(s). This can be achieved by using a hot water bottle covered in a towel, or by placing a heating pad on the lowest setting underneath bedding. You need to be careful with heating pads as it is possible to burn the little ones if it gets too hot. It is also best to leave a section of their bedding without the heating pad so they can move away from the heat if they desire.

FEEDING BOTTLE BABIES:

Bottle babies are fed formula (KMR milk replacer if possible). Milk replacer comes in powdered form and liquid form. Be sure to follow the mixing and storage instructions. If you are using the canned liquid formula make sure to refrigerate after opening. Reconstituted formula must be kept refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Depending on the age of your foster(s) they may need to be fed every 2-6 hours. Newborns eat smaller amounts but more often (usually every 2-3 hours). Staff will instruct you with the specific feeding instructions if needed. Formula should be warm or room temperature when feeding. Test the formula temperature on your wrist prior to feeding your foster(s). Heat reconstituted formula by placing the bottle in a warm cup of water. Do not microwave as it causes loss of nutrients. The nipple of the bottle should have a small hole or cross cut with scissors. The nipple opening should only be large enough for milk to drip out when held upside down and gently squeezed. A hole any bigger may cause your foster to aspirate the formula. If bubbles of milk are coming from your fosters nose, that indicates the formula is being aspirated.

HELPING YOUR BOTTLE BABIES URINATE/DEFECATE:

Bottle babies will also need help using the bathroom. Their mother would normally stimulate their genital area, so that they could urinate/defecate. To do this you will need to gently rub the kitten or puppy’s genital area with a damp cloth or soft paper product. This should be done a few times daily. Keep in mind they may not go each time.

SUCKLING BOTTLE BABIES:

Bottle babies have the instinct and need to suckle and may do so on their litter mates. If you notice this it will need to be monitored. Sometimes bottle babies will suckle on litter mate’s genitals which can cause permanent damage. Seek advice from staff if this is the case. Separating the kittens may be necessary.

INTRODUCTING BOTTLE BABIES TO THE LITTER BOX:

When your kittens turn about 4 weeks of age it is a good time to introduce the litter box. If the kitten is having a bowel movement without help from you it is a sign that the kitten is ready for the litter box. You can start by placing the litter box in the crate with the kittens and as they get older placing one outside of the crate. If you catch your foster(s) eliminating outside of the box pick them up and place into the box.

INTRODUCING BOTTLE BABIES TO POTTY PADS/OUTSIDE:

Like kittens, puppies need to be stimulated to use the bathroom. Puppies will begin to go on their own very quickly. Puppy pads are nice to use when your foster(s) are too small to go outside. When they are old enough you may begin to house train them outside (make sure they are always supervised).

Weaning your Bottle Babies:When your foster(s) is around 4 weeks of age you can begin the weaning process. Start by offering their formula in a dish. Once they become familiar with the dish, you can add in small amounts of canned food with the formula. At this time you can also provide water in a shallow dish. As they continue to eat the canned food mixed with formula (aka gruel) begin reducing the amount of formula and increasing the amount of canned food. If they are eating well, begin to introduce hard food in their gruel slowly. Once they are approaching 8 weeks of age they should be completely off of formula and have half canned food and half hard food.

Pregnant Fosters:Fostering pregnant animals can be a lot of fun! You get all of the enjoyment and mom does most of the work. You must have an area that is isolated, quiet and comfortable. You will need to provide mom with a box and towels/blankets for when she gives birth. Moms like to have privacy and security when they give birth and usually do so at night when everyone is sleeping. IF THE MOM SEEMS TO BE HAVING DIFFICULTY GIVING BIRTH CONTACT THE SHELTER IMMEDIATELY. IF IT IS AFTER HOURS USE THE CONTACT SHEET ABOVE FOR THE APPROTIATE PERSON TO CONTACT. Once babies are born contact the shelter and report how many babies there are and their condition. Use caution when handling mothers and their new borns as their behavior can change quickly. You can feed mom a mixture of kitten or puppy food (depending on what species your mom is) to ensure she is receiving enough nutrients. If you feel mom is not doing a good job nursing or taking care of

the kittens contact the shelter or inform your case worker when they call. There is a slight chance you may have to supplement babies with a bottle if mom is struggling.

Moms With Babies:Bringing home a mom with her litter can be fun, but remember to be patient. Once mom is in your home let her explore her new area and become comfortable at her pace. Don’t get too involved with her babies until a few days have passed and she is comfortable with you. Sit in a room with her and the babies and let her come to you, look for signs that she is comfortable with you handling her babies. If she is hovering over the babies, growling, staring, and freezing or seems uncomfortable do NOT attempt to handle the babies. Make sure mom has a comfortable and safe place for her and the babies to rest. Keep in mind that the babies may be mobile so make sure the area is clear of debris/valuable objects. Make sure mom takes breaks from the kittens to stretch her legs, relax and eat. Babies can nurse on mom until 8 weeks of age, but you should begin weaning process between 4 and 5 weeks of age. Socialization at this age is very important for both babies and mom. You want them to be comfortable with being held, played with, talked to and brushed.

Physical Characteristics of Your Foster Babies:Kittens:5-8 days- ear canals begin to open8-14 days- eyes will begin to open16-18 days- ears will start to stand up18-20 days- start to waddle/crawl21 days- able to stand, start playing, teeth begin coming in21-28 days- see clearly, start cleaning themselves35-49 days- running, playingPuppies:7-14 days- eyes begin to open14-21 days- ears begin to open12-28 days- start to waddle/walk, able to smell28-35 days- wagging tail, begin to bark35-49 days- play, learn social ranking

Recovering Foster(s):On occasion the shelter may have an animal that is recovering from surgery, an injury, or medical treatment. These animals recover more quickly in a home environment than a shelter environment. If you have a recovering animal at home follow the instructions given by staff. Medications may be provided if necessary, along with instructions. Keep the foster(s) in a separate area from your pets. If they are recovering, they likely need to be kept calm and quiet.

Behavior Modification/Socialization:You may have a foster with behavior issues or lack of socialization. The shelter environment is not ideal for behavior modification. Foster homes have more time to dedicate to these animals and they have a better chance of being adopted and finding their forever home. The focus is to modify unwanted behaviors through socialization and training. Depending on the animal, they may need a few weeks to a few months in foster care. Information will be given prior to you taking your foster(s) which will include what is expected/needed of you.

Common Health Concerns:Please keep a close eye on your foster(s) as things can change quickly. You will get to know your foster(s) fairly quickly and will know their behavioral patterns, eating habits, elimination routine etc. This helps in noticing something that may be out of the ordinary. The following may help you decide whether or not to contact the shelter.

Change in eating habits (mainly decrease)Change in attitude or energy level (lethargy)Excessive urination, lack of urination, concentrated urineMajor changes in stool (bloody or runny)Nasal/eye dischargeCoughing/wheezing/sneezingVomitingConstant whining/cryingAnything out of the ordinary

** If you notice any of these, contact the shelter and explain what you are seeing.

Diarrhea:Diarrhea is often caused by a change in food or diet but can also be caused by parasites, bacterial growth, a viral infection or stress. If the animal is alert and playful it is most likely due to change in diet. If the animal is showing signs of discomfort or there is blood in the stool a fecal needs to be done. Most times a de-wormer is necessary or even an antibiotic. Both adults and babies that have diarrhea can become dehydrated easily. A few things can be done if this is the case, but seek advice first. For kittens, pedialite can be given through a syringe or dish. Shelter staff can administer subcutaneous fluids. If diarrhea persists or gets worse contact the shelter.

Vomiting:

Vomiting is a common health issue in young fosters. Most often is due to a change in food but can also be caused by parasites or an infection. If you notice your foster

is vomiting, monitor the frequency and content and then call the shelter for advice. If you notice worms or blood in their vomit call the shelter and bring them in immediately. Vomiting can also lead to dehydration quickly. Fluids may be given by a staff member if necessary.

Internal Parasites:

All animals over the age of 4 weeks are given a de-wormer upon intake. Kittens and puppies need to be de-wormed multiple times. If you see worms in your fosters stool, collect a sample and bring it to the shelter so we can determine what kind. Medication or another de-wormer will be provided at that time. Coccidia is a common parasite and causes vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy. It is common in kittens and puppies and can take some time to treat. Our vet can determine if coccidia is present by looking at a fecal sample. Giardia is also common and can be ruled out by a snap test using a fecal sample. Both giardia and coccidia are easily transmitted to other animals and even humans. Make sure to clean up messes made by your foster(s) thoroughly and to wash hands afterwards.

External Parasites:Common external parasites include: fleas, ticks, lice, and ear mites. All of these are easily treated, but if left untreated they can cause severe medical problems. All animals are checked for external parasites upon intake but things can be missed. If you notice any external parasites notify the shelter so treatment can begin.

Upper Respiratory Infection (URI):URI’s are very common in shelter animals and can spread very quickly. Some signs of a URI are: eye discharge, sneezing, nasal discharge, congestion, coughing, difficulty breathing etc. Because URI’s can spread very easily, it is very important to keep your foster(s) away from any other pets. Medication will be given with instructions. Usually medication is given for 10 days, but your foster(s) may need longer. If your foster(s) does not seem to be getting better or is getting worse contact the shelter.

**On occasion by no fault of anyone, a foster may pass away due to an illness. This is one of the hardest parts of being a foster parent. Unfortunately, sometimes things happen beyond our control. If a foster of yours passes away notify the shelter.

Ringworm:Ringworm is a highly contagious fungal infection that can be passed to animals and humans through handling and contact. Small circular and sometimes itchy spots will

sporadically appear on the skin. Animals with ringworm are rarely placed into foster care. If you notice your foster(s) have abnormal hair loss (usually around the face and paws) contact the shelter immediately.

Returning your Foster:You must make an appointment to return your foster(s) once he/she no longer requires fostering, when it is time for him/her to have surgery, or at EBHS’ request.

Your foster(s) has to be spayed or neutered prior to being placed up for adoption. Surgery is typically on Thursday (unless you are told otherwise) so your foster(s) will need to be dropped off before 3 pm Wednesday (or the day prior to surgery) so staff have time to get them checked in for surgery.

When it is time to return your foster(s) you may feel a sense of sadness, loss, and even guilt. Often this is the most challenging time for a foster parent. Rest assured, we screen all potential adopters rigorously and your foster(s) will soon be a cherished pet in a loving home. You will then be able to help more animals in need.

By filling out a return foster profile sheet for prospective adopters, you increase the appeal of the animal while he/she is on the adoption floor. This information provides insight into what the adoptive family can expect from its new family member. You may include photos and stories with the foster history sheet to further describe your experience with your foster(s).

Adoption Policy:

Often times friends or family members of the foster parent would like to adopt their foster(s). It is our policy that any person interested in adopting must fill out an adoption application. All requirements must be met; all members in the household must view the animal (at the shelter unless otherwise approved), we must have proof of home ownership or consent from a landlord. If you have an interested party in your foster(s) let the Shelter Operations Manager know and you will be advised of the procedures.

Do NOT give away your foster animal to an interested party. This is a serious violation of the foster care program and you will be terminated from any further participation. Do NOT arrange adoptions of your foster(s) on your own. This is a violation of policy. The animal has been in your care but legally belongs to EBHS and any final decisions regarding an adoption will be determined by staff.

If your foster(s) does not do well in the shelter environment other arrangements may be made for the public to view the animal (this usually pertains to dogs more so than cats). Once the foster(s) is ready for adoption we will ask you to assist with a bio and provide pictures so the animal can be put on the shelter’s website for adoption. People may inquire about your foster(s) by calling the front office where

they will be given more information. If someone would like to meet your foster(s) or potentially adopt, their information will be given to the Shelter Operations Manager or Lead Animal Caregiver who will arrange a time for the potential adopter to meet your foster(s) (based on availability). Animal care staff members will do a counsel like we would with any other potential adoption with your foster(s). If you would like, you may have a few minutes at the end of the counsel to come in and share information/stories about your foster(s). Please remember that EBHS wants to see all animals in the perfect home. Shelter staff will ultimately be deciding who will be adopting your foster(s) and you need to feel comfortable with that.

Policies and Procedures:1. EBHS retains all rights and ownership of any animal in the Foster Care

Program. EBHS has the right to recall any fostered animal to the shelter at any time for any reason.

2. EBHS makes all decisions regarding animals to be placed in foster care.

3. Foster animals must be returned to EBHS upon request, or at the expiration of the agreed upon time period, or if you are no longer able to adequately care for them.

4. Only authorized foster volunteers may care for foster animals. Foster animals must not be left under anyone else’s care without prior authorization from EBHS.

5. EBHS is not liable for any injury, illness, or damage to persons or property, including owned animals, while an animal is in the foster home.

6. EBHS may visit a foster home at any time providing that the foster volunteer is given prior notice. Prior notice is not required for the repossession of an animal when a foster volunteer fails to bring the animal back to EBHS as requested.

7. All adoption inquiries about foster animals in your care must be directed to EBHS.

8. Animals are matched to foster volunteers by EBHS based on experience, ability, and priority needs of animals.

9. Foster volunteers must attend an orientation prior to fostering. In exceptional circumstances, foster volunteers may begin fostering prior to the orientation as long as they are signed up for the next available orientation and have been approved by the EBHS Shelter Operations Manager.

10.All current animals of the foster volunteer must be up-to-date with vaccines and be free of any contagious diseases. (All dogs belonging to the foster volunteer must have current DHLPP and rabies vaccine and be spayed or neutered. In addition, owned dogs must have received a bordetella vaccine at least 10 days prior to a foster dog entering the foster home. All cats belonging to the foster volunteer must have up-to-date FVRCP and rabies vaccines, be spayed or neutered, and FLV/FIV tested negative.)

11.The foster volunteer must isolate foster animals from existing pets in the household as long as indicated by EBHS. Foster animals must be kept indoors, except when walking dogs and taking them out to eliminate. Foster dogs with kennel cough must be kept away from other dogs in public. Foster cats should never be allowed outdoors. All foster dogs need to be kept on leash or in a fenced in area.

12.All medical care and support for foster animals must be sought through the shelter. In the event of an emergency, you must contact the shelter or the shelter’s after-hours emergency line to speak with a staff member.

13.Do not give your foster animal(s) any antibiotics or other medication unless instructed by the EBHS staff.

14.All foster parents must sign foster agreement and placement for each animal in their care prior to the animal going into foster care.

15.Foster parents will receive a folder with medical information and return profiles. These should be used to keep track of the animal’s care while away from the shelter.

16.When animals have completed foster care, shelter staff will evaluate the animal(s) first, schedule spay/neuter if needed, and place him/her on the adoption floor as space permits. *Please understand that it is the

responsibility of the EBHS staff to determine if your foster animal is fit for adoption.

17.Videos and pictures of your foster(s) are not to be shared on social media (Facebook, Twitter etc.) unless initially posted by EBHS. Then pictures and videos can be shared from EBHS’s page.

I, the undersigned, understand and agree to the above terms and conditions of the foster program.

Foster Volunteer: _________________________________________________________________

EBHS Representative:_________________________________________________________________