elise goes east:a documentation

of one girl’s journey across europe

I began 2011 knowing that I needed to travel – that I needed to escape from the drab usualness of every day life and explore. I was a junior in college, on my way to turning 21 and nearing the real world at an alarming pace. Mostly, I was afraid and gripping onto the idea that my major could somehow afford me the opportunity to not only prosper but also to enjoy life. That is not to say that I think I’ll excel as a travel journalist, trekking through war-torn countries with the slim companionship of my recorder and laptop or a world-savvy adventurer who can survive a week in Barcelona off of her good looks and $50. It just means that I saw the chance to go on a summer trip – to vacation, to take in new sights, to study, to fall in love with architecture and geography – and profit from the experience while gaining college credit.

And that’s where this magazine comes into play. Right now, you’re looking at the hard work of Sarah Hutto, a friend and skilled graphic design student, and myself.

The photos, experiences and writing are my own and the design work is the child of my love of the color violet and Sarah’s passion for implied lines and her patience when it comes to slightly anxious perfectionists. All in all, this magazine is something I hope we’ll both be proud of in the years to come. But, beyond that, I hope that through the combination of text and photography, you can learn something about a place you’ve always wanted to visit or (better yet!) never even heard of and consequently feel the urge to look into.

Mostly, I hope the idea of a slightly scared and largely

risky twenty-year-old taking a step in the adventurous direction will inspire you to discard whatever misgivings you might have about travel and, instead of talking about leaving the country for Spain or Italy or Russia, you’ll hop on the next plane across the big pond you can find and just live for a while. I promise you, it’s exciting and breathtaking and heart-pounding all at once; honestly, I don’t have the words to describe the wonderment that is being a little on the lost side in a foreign country with nothing but a map, your mind and the goodness of human nature to

guide you.Don’t let me mislead

you into thinking I took Europe on alone, however; I had a group to travel with throughout my entire voyage. And, while we were not always together, it came in handy when learning the layout of a new city or when going out at night to take in the local bars. And, while I think my next trip (when, not if, there is one) will be a more private affair, having journeyed to Europe on two separate occasions with a group of peers has better-prepared me for one day facing the

amsterdamdays 1–3

colognedays 4–6

munichdays 7–11

lausannedays 12–14

milandays 15–19

dachauday trip

salzburgday trip

introduction

prospect of traveling on my own.

As a side note, I’d like to say that the two trips I’ve taken were completely different. During the first, I was 16 and chaperoned by a teacher from my high school; we were allowed some freedoms but, for the most part, we were looked after. Also, that trip was a two-week tour of Italy so, while there was still a lot of

moving from place to place, it lacked some of the fast-paced frenzy that occurred in my second trip. So, if you’re considering sending your kid off to study abroad or you’re a student saving up to travel, weigh how much freedom you desire and what kind of pace you want to travel at before committing to anything. But keep in mind that college is one of the best and most-fulfilling times in your

life to absorb new customs and cultures.

So, without further adieu, I’d like to urge you to turn the page and follow my path as “elise goes east” through Western Europe from The Netherlands to Germany and onto Austria, Switzerland and Italy. I hope you enjoy reading about my exploits as much as I enjoyed living them and, if I haven’t in some way left you better-prepared

for the trip of a lifetime (or, at least, one of many trips of a lifetime), then I take full blame for failing you. But, boy, did I have a good time in the process.

amsterdamdays 1–3

colognedays 4–6

munichdays 7–11

lausannedays 12–14

milandays 15–19

dachauday trip

salzburgday trip

introduction

Amsterdam, beyond being the capital of the Netherlands, is a city with a somewhat mottled reputation. In America, it is often looked upon with a mix of interest and disdain depending on your age and interests. It is a city known for its wild nightlife – for its bars, booze and seedier economy boosters. When my mother was confronted with the idea of me starting my trip in Amsterdam, she was less than pleased; on the other hand, when my friends found out, I was met with a thousand different and crazy ideas of what I should do first.

Due to the entertainment industry’s portrayal of Amsterdam as a modern-day Sodom and Gomorrah – where as many young girls go missing as have a bit too much fun – I was nervous about the first stop on my European journey. And then I got to Amsterdam and all of the nerves and anxieties fell away like imaginary shackles. It was a beautiful place, a green and organic place, that came off as neither self-important nor dangerous.

Walking along the canals, taking in the interesting mix of houseboats, narrow buildings and graffiti, was one of the most idyllic experiences of my life.

Amsterdam was, to a traveler both exhausted and plane-weary, welcoming. My first day in the city was

spent wandering, becoming familiar with the Jordaan District and cruising the canals by boat with my group. All in all, Amsterdam made for the perfect beginning to a trip that would only continue to impress and delight.

In hindsight, I’d deem Amsterdam as one of my

The westernmost region of The Netherlands. Amsterdam, the country capital, and The Hague, where the seat of government is housed, are both located in Holland. Often, the whole of The Netehrlands is referred to as “Holland”; however, the Dutch people, while tolerant, are generally displeased with this usage.

amste

rdam

Regional info: Holland

favorite stops on the entire trip and, since arriving back in the States, I’ve spent a lot of time praising Holland. Not because of the days spent exploring Dam Square and the Old Centre or because of wild nights out on the town or even because of the deep feelings visiting the Anne Frank House brought forth in me but, at the heart of it, because of the people. The Dutch are a blunt, bold

and educated people; they are humorous, light-hearted and always ready for a good time. Most of them spoke excellent English and were willing to help us get to where we were going or, in some cases, show us places even better than our intended destination.

Throughout my entire trip, I met wonderful people; but in Holland, I made friends. And, honestly, what more could you

ask of any place?So, before judging

Amsterdam as uncouth, keep in mind that stigmas only exist because we create them.

TouRismde Wallen

(The Red light district) - one of the city’s main tourist attractions; known for its coffeeshops, bars and legal sex workers. The name

is derived from the red-lit windows prevalent throughout the district. The Royal Palace

- situated in Dam Square; it was no more than a town hall until Louis Bonaporte converted it into his royal palace in 1806.The anne frank House

- the house Anne and her family took refuge in during the German occupation of the Netherlands.

“

“

cologne

From the first, Cologne struck me as picturesque and artistic; it is a city divided by the iconic Rhine River, which flows from the Swiss Alps to the Black Sea, and immersed in culture. And, to the last, Cologne was a city that

managed to excite, entertain and relax me. The weather was chilly but manageable, the streets busy but navigable and the scenery (from the cathedrals to the ivy-wrapped buildings to the sprawling, blue river that breathes

life into the city) was like something out of a dream.

I spent only two days in Cologne, which is all that I have to say ill of my time there, but I made the absolute most of it. It was evening when we were first

set loose upon the city but, due to the location, it was still beautifully bright out and perfect for a brisk stroll along the cobblestone and crowded riverside streets. We spent much of our time doing just that in

Cologne – wandering idly around, devouring the views with our eyes and, conversely, devouring whatever street food caught our eye (Let me just say: bratwurst proved not to be my favorite local treat in the world, but there were some pretty delicious stuffed and topped pretzels as well as thin-crust pizza).

Cologne was the second stop on my European journey, but the first in which I had the time and forethought to locate and explore a historic cathedral. The Cathedral of Cologne was an excellent find during our first walk through the city and, the very next day, a group of fun girls and I decided to start our morning by touring the interior. After taking in the large, open beauty that is the inside of a European cathedral, donating spare Euro to the upkeep of one of Cologne’s most sacred places and exploring the

crypt, we opted for a more upbeat late morning and afternoon.

Which is to say: we shopped and shopped and shopped. I’d say we ventured into twenty souvenir and clothing stores before setting off to find lunch and getting lost en route to a post office (which can prove exceedingly difficult to find abroad).

While in Cologne, I also visited the local Olympic Museum and salivated over divine sweets at the Chocolate Museum. Both of these tourist spots proved entertaining and made for a fun afternoon, and I’d especially recommend the Olympic Museum, which mixes historical elements with interactive games, to groups traveling with children or young adults. As for the Chocolate Museum? Well, with samples of chocolate liqueurs and a

thousand different types of truffles and bars for purchase, I’d recommend it to anyone.

And, funnily enough, that’s exactly how I feel about the whole of Cologne.

TouRismCologne Cathedral

- a Gothic church that serves as the city’s most recognized landmark; it is home to the Shrine of the Three Kings and was deemed a World Heritage site in 1996.

medieval city gates

- of the twelve medieval city gates that once flanked Cologne, only three remain. High street

- one of the main shopping districts; it is located south of the cathedral.imhoff-schokoladenmuseum

(the Chocolate museum)

- the exhibitions show the history of chocolate as well as contemporary production methods. Not to mention, the gift shop is to die for.

Munich, Germany, is part party, part history lesson. It’s the capital of Bavaria and the home of the well-known Hofbrauhaus; it was the home base and stronghold of Hitler and his supporters in the early 1920s and ‘30s and the site of the 1972 Summer Olympics. Now, Munich is known primarily for its livelihood, beer gardens and the annual Oktoberfest, which is a time of general debauchery and fun.

For me, though, Munich was a gloomy, rainy entrance into a place called Hostel Alley – a momentary terror and recalling of the bad things that happen to good girls abroad. It was the gradual abating of terror, and the merry greetings of a stag party dressed as knights in

the hostel bar. Munich was laughter, getting lost with a group of Canadians, relying on the kindness of strangers, impromptu picnics in Marienplatz, kebabs for lunch and dinner and, always, rejoining my group at the end of the day for happy hour and, on one occasion, having an unexpected conversation about journalism with a German friend of a friend.

Really, Munich is a great place, and that’s coming from someone who knew absolutely nothing about the city prior to going there. The food was good, the beer was great and public transportation was decent. The people were plesant; the city was clean and beautiful. There were free walking tours and even our hostel managed to be stellar, which isn’t what I m

unic

h

expected from and not what I experienced with other hostels during my time in Europe.

Moreover, it’s not just me that thinks Munich is a great city to visit or live. In 2010, it was ranked 15th out of 289 cities for social and economic innovation and, in the same year, it was deemed the world’s most livable city.

And, if that’s still not enough for you, keep in mind that it’s well located. During my time in Munich, I took two daytrips: one to the first ever concentration camp, Dachau, and one to Hohenschwangau, which is home to Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle.

TouRismmarienplatz

- the central square in Munich’s city center and the home of Mary’s Column as well as many shops and restaurants. Beer halls and oktoberfest

- Munich houses many breweries with the

most notable being the Hofbrauhaus. Hofbrauhaus has the second biggest stand at Oktoberfest, which, contrary to the name, takes place in September.maximilanstrasse

- known for being the most expensive street in the entire city.

The largest and second most populated state in Germany, Bavaria was formally referred to as the Free State of Bavaria. Since the Kingdom of Bavaria dissolved in 1918, Bavaria has been a free state or republic. Munich is the capital of Bavaria.

Regional info: BavaRia

When I got on the train from Munich to Dachau one early June morning, I knew that it would be a different and difficult day. I did not, however, know that it would shape up to be one of the most somber, haunting and meaningful days of my life. While I boarded that train knowing what I was about to experience would touch me – would likely fill me with a pain and sympathy

those of my age group don’t feel often enough – I had no idea that it would cast a learned and mournful shadow upon the rest of the day, if not the rest of my life.

The small group that I went with and I arrived early enough to be some of the first to tour the concentration camp that day and, while we were unable to fit a guided tour into our schedule, we opted for an

audio tour that enabled us to go at our own pace, using a small device to learn about the different parts of the camp. In a way, I preferred this method of tour because it allowed for a great deal of solitude and thought; instead of being surrounded and distracted by 30 plus people and focusing all of my attention on a guide as opposed to the place itself, I was walking through the open

courtyard where the prisoners were forced to line up every morning, viewing their cramped quarters, admiring the tribute statues that have been built on-site and stifling my horror and disgust upon reaching the crematorium.

Despite the heartache I felt, I would never take back trekking those poignantly and ironically bright, wooded and peaceful-looking grounds

dachau

and learning more than I previously thought I could stomach about the tragedies that took place there. While Dachau is not as large and widely recognized as death Auschwitz and Bergen-Belsen, it was the first of its kind in Germany and is more than worth a visit by history buffs, enthusiasts and mere travelers

alike. And, as the monument at Dachau proclaims, places like Dachau (as well as Anne Frank’s house, the Holocaust museum and many other historical locations and museums) are important in the fact that they remind us that such atrocities made by man upon man should take place “Never Again.”

HisToRydachau was... the first concentration camp established by the Nazi Party. It served as a model for future concentration camps. inside the camp... prisoners were divided into two groups: political prisoners and “criminals.”

it was... the second camp to be liberated by Allied forces; due to this, it was used by the media to expose the injustices practiced on prisoners. in its 12 years of operation... an intake of over 200,000 prisoners and 30,000 deaths were recorded.

I spent a total of four hours in Salzburg, Austria, which totals up to one-sixth of a day, less than the amount of time we spend sleeping and – in the scheme of things – a mere blink of the eye. I spent that mere blink walking the city’s fairytale streets, surrounded by “The Sound of Music” post cards and souvenirs, dozens of open markets and nature like you couldn’t possibly believe. I spent less time in Salzburg than I spend

going to lunch and watching a movie with friends in the States or enjoying coffee and a good book on a lazy Saturday morning.

All in all, Salzburg was a weigh station in the scheme of things; it was a stepping-stone on my journey through Europe. Nothing at all – a small breath, not even a gasp. And while I might have left the city only with a greater understanding of why people love “The Sound of Music”

(Austria’s beautiful, people, and I may just watch the entire movie the next time it’s on television), a newfound love of sprawling gardens built by important men for lovely women and an original watercolor piece by a local artist, I know I’ll return one day. And I know I’ll see and fall more and more head-over-heels in love with a country known more for its past than its breathtaking now.

salz

burg

TouRismPalace of mirabell

(and the mirabell gardens)

- built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich Raitenau for his lover in the early 1600s; the gardens are arranged geometrically and feature statues of well-known mythological beings. Many scenes from “The Sound of Music” were shot in the gardens and, due to its romantic history, it’s a popular location for tying the knot!

mozart’s Residence and

Birthplace

- fans of classical music will be pleased that Mozart was born in Salzburg and went on to reside there for much of his life. Both are open to the public and rank in the Top 10 Sights on the city’s website. old Town - nominated a World Heritage Site in 1996. Old Town is the historic city center, housing the Old Market and Mozart Square.

salzburger dom (salzburg

Cathedral)

- a 17th century baroque cathedral dedicated to Rupert of Salzburg, who founded the city and serves as a Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox saint. The cathedral was damaged during World War II and full restoration was completed in 1959. Hohensalzburg fortress

- one of the largest medievel castles in Europe, it overlooks Salzburg from atop Festungsberg mountain.

The museum der moderne

salzburg

(museum of modern art)

- two buildings located in different parts of the city. A baroque structure in the city center focuses on modern artistic concepts and a rooftop location in Old Town specializes in modern art. The sound of music Tours

- tours that lead movie enthusiasts from one film location to another.

Pardon my overly romantic and humanized description of a city you may not yet know of, but Lausanne is something of a beautiful tease. The city, which is perfectly positioned on Lake Geneva and surrounded by the Swiss Alps, is located in the French-speaking section of Switzerland and boasts beautiful views as far as the eye can see. On a pleasant day, it offers itself up to tourists and locals alike as a perfect location for picnics, relaxed

shopping trips, water sports and lazy days by the lake. All in all, when the sun is out and shining, Lausanne could be considered something of a utopia with its flower portraits, wild swans and colorful architecture.

Why then, did I leave the city after three days, slightly disheartened and verging on disappointed? Because Lausanne greeted us with impeccable, glorious weather upon our morning arrival that lured us in (despite

our complaints about high prices and further monetary conversions) and led us to believe that we had somehow stumbled upon a city that dwarfed every other city in the world by comparison. Because, on first glance, Lausanne was nothing but gold sun reflecting off of blue water; it was godly in its beauty and peaceful nature. And then, out of nowhere, while we were cooped away in a museum no less, the bottom dropped and the

laus

anne

whole city turned dark and dank and dim.

And this wasn’t one of those fleeting Southern afternoon storms I’ve grown up with. This wasn’t an hour of rain and thunder while the sun took a nap – it was incessant, seemingly unending bedlam in the form of water falling from the sky for two of the three days I spent in a city known for what it had to offer outdoors. And, while the first day’s storm provided situation comedy-esque moments of running through the rain with three of the members of my group and hilariously slipping and falling once we reached our hostel door, the second day of

straight rain seemed more and more like a punishment.

In retrospect, considering our hostel left much room for desire, those two days took on the distinct feel of imprisonment, which deeply harmed the group dynamic and taught me that traveling with a large group of peers may not always be the right answer.

TouRismouchy waterfront

- located, as the name suggests, along Lake Geneva; it houses the docks and a recreational area. Alongside various boat and watersport rental stores, there are several relatively high-end shops and restaurants on the streets nearest to the waterfront.

olympic museum

- the International Olympic Committee is located in Lausanne, so the Olympic Museum is not only extensive but also houses the IOC archives.

Beau-Rivage Palace

- a ritzy hotel located on the shores of Lake Geneva; it is surrounded by 10 acres of lush gardens and listed as a Swiss heritage site of national significance.

lausanne Cathedral - a gothic style cathedral found in old town, surrounded by car-free roads, that was built largely in the 12th and 13th centuries.

musee de l’art Brut

- presents a worldwide collection of pieces created by a unique range of artists from psychiatric clinics and prisons.

The French-speaking region of Switzerland; it encompasses the cantons of Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel, Jura and parts of Valais, Fribourg and Bern. Nearly 25 percent of the Swiss population lives in Romandy today.

Regional info: Romandy

If I don’t tread carefully, I will convince you that I did not like Milan. I will fill your brains with lies that Milan is too loud and too dirty and too blunt to ever be naturally beautiful. If I do not ready myself with thought and poetry, you will come away from this convinced that Milan is all city – dank, dark and dangerous – which, to some degree, it is.

I will not lie: on the

surface, Milan is an urban place, a city-dweller and - lover’s place. It is fast-paced, filled to the brim with high-end shops, stiletto-clad shoppers and enough cigarette smoke to destroy the best of lungs; it is a place known for catering only to the wealthy. And, in many ways, it seems like the black sheep of the family compared to its brother and sister cities. But, once I took a step back from the city,

I realized that (in spite of and, perhaps, because of its background in fashion) Milan is full of a striking self-confidence quite different from that of Rome or Florence.

The real defining feature of Milano is that, unlike other Italian cities, it is a place not stuck in the past. I realize this might sound strange, considering the liveliest part of the city is built around the Duomo di Milano (a historic

structure of such remarkable beauty that Mark Twain was driven to immortalize it with lines such as “...a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!” and “They say that the Cathedral of Milan is second only to St. Peter’s at Rome. I cannot understand how it can be second to anything made by human hands.”), but I promise it’s true.

And with that being said,

milan

my biggest praise for the city and the people of Milan is that they are grounded in the present with eyes searching eagerly and hungrily for the future. So, yes. Milan is a city; but a city in love with life, with movement, with food, with fashion. A city after any traveler’s own heart, some might say. Or at least I will.

Milan is a strange and surreal mix of architecture and business; the streets are cobbled, the Vespas are plentiful and, everywhere you go, you’re confronted by beautiful men and women with dark hair and serious faces. It is a place with a bar on every corner and a nightlife as full-force and in your face as its day-life. Many streets are enhanced

by the sound of a musician – perhaps homeless, perhaps not – serenading onlookers with the depths of his musicianship. And, beyond that, the city has

its own music. But Milan is at its core

still a city. There is grime and crime and, at times, you may feel stirrings of fear despite the sheer volume of humanity around you. Because of this I would warn you to stay

vigilant, to keep your eyes open, and to enjoy yourself freely but not too freely. Like any city, foreign or otherwise, there is always a need to stay in control.

And in Milan, from my experience, this is evidenced by the polizia stationed around the Piazza del Duomo at all hours or, even more terrifying, by a night that ended in a confrontation with a gang of young, violent ruffians on the metro. But the presence of peril is a part of life.

And again, Milano and the Milanese are all about life.

TouRismduomo di milano

- the city’s cathedral. It’s free of charge to enter the ground level, but a small fee is required for the breathtaking view at the top.

galleria vittorio emanuele ii - first indoor shopping mall.

Teatro alla scala

- Milan’s world-renowned opera house.

santa maria delle grazie - the location of Leonardo Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper.” This is one of the most popular sites in the city and reservations should be made well in advance. (One book I read recommended booking as early as six months before arrival!)

Regional info: lomBaRdyOne of the 20 regions of Italy; Milan is its capital. It is the most widely populated and richest region in the country.

...a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!

tips for travelersPaCking TiPs

— If you’re traveling to more than one place, pack lightly. Especially if you plan on using public transportation. Lugging around too much stuff can greatly delay you and annoy others. Also, be mindful that many European hotels don’t have elevators. Do you really want to carry your body weight worth of stuff up four flights of stairs? Didn’t think so.

— Consider packing a towel. Hostels typically won’t provide them unless you pay a nightly fee.

— Bring a raincoat with an attachable hood AND an umbrella; you never know how the weather’s going to turn out, and you don’t want to end up trapped inside due to a little rain.

exPloRing TiPs

— Always check your hotel or hostel’s front desk for free maps of the area before buying them from Tourist Information shops.

— If possible, take food from the hotel breakfast with you to snack on throughout the day. This will save you money and ensure that you don’t have to stop for food.

— However, you can also consider checking out local produce markets to save money!

— Be mindful of your surroundings: use visual landmarks when exploring foreign cities.

— Purchase 24-hour metro or bus passes. Look for free walking tours! For instance, SANDEMANs New Europe offers tours in 14 cities across Europe.

— And please, please, please wear comfortable walking shoes. Cobblestone roads and flats or heels just don’t mix. Forget looking cute if you’re going to be on your feet all day.

geneRal TiPs

— Familiarize yourself with monetary and temperature conversions before starting your trip.

— Remember that water is a commodity overseas! Carry a water bottle with you and refill it in the hotel sink; also, learn how to properly order non-mineral water depending on what country you’re in. (For example, you’d ask for “water without gas” in Italy.)

— No matter where you’re travelling, try to learn some of the language. Not only is it helpful, it comes off as respectful as well.

— When conversing with someone who knows English as a second (or third!) language, speak slowly and enunciate carefully until you’ve had time to gauge their skill level.

— Most importantly: always remember to respect cultures different from your own.

a queue of quotes

It is not down in any map; true places never are.

Herman Melville

Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe.

Anatole France

No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.

Lin Yutang

I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.

Lillian Smith

There is nothing like a dream to create the future.

Victor Hugo

“A dreamer is one who can only find his way by moonlight, and his punishment is that he sees the dawn before the rest of the world.”

Oscar Wilde

The dream was always running ahead of me. To catch up, to live for a moment in unison with it, that was the miracle.

Anais Nin

There are only two emotions in a plane: boredom and terror.

Orson Welles

“Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.”

Pat Conroy

Not all those who wander are lost.

J. R. R. Tolkien

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.

Robert Louis Stevenson

“If I know only one thing,It’s that everything that I see Of the world outside is so inconceivableOften I barely can speak.”

Fleet Foxes

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain

Anything we fully do is an alone journey.

Natalie Goldberg

“Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things – air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky – all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.”

Cesare Pavese

This trip was conducted by Sports Travel Academy and East Carolina University, which is not my university, and was developed around a sports management program. However, the trip’s guide and professer were kind enough to allow me to piggy-back on their good time in order to get me to Europe and make my independent study abroad with Troy University possible.

creditsContent: Savannah Elise Harrison

Photography: Savannah Elise Harrison

Cover/Back Cover Design: Sarah Olivia Hutto

Interior Design: Sarah Olivia Hutto