effect of biopolishing treatment on various spun yarn …2)2012/gjbb-v1… · · 2012-11-09effect...
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G.J.B.B., VOL.1 (2) 2012: 287-295 ISSN 2278 – 9103
287
EFFECT OF BIOPOLISHING TREATMENT ON VARIOUS SPUN YARNKNITTED FABRICS
Chinta S. K. *, Landage S. M., Ketan VermaD.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji- 416115(M.S), India
E-mail – [email protected] this study, single jersey knitted fabrics manufactured using carded and combed yarns of same count were used. After theenzymatic treatment, it is observed that pilling resistance ratings of the fabric samples of combed yarn were better than thecarded ring-spun yarn. Fabrics of combed yarns gave the best bursting strength values for untreated and enzymatic treated, thanthose of carded yarns. Knitted fabrics using combed yarns show the highest resistance to abrasion before and after enzymatictreatment.The significance colour difference values were also observed in fabric samples of enzyme-treatment after dyeing.
KEY WORDS: Bio-polishing, Carded yarn, Combed yarn, Cellulase Enzyme, Knitted Fabric, Pilling.
INTRODUCTIONPilling and fuzz, which was not a problem in previousyears (especially for cotton fabrics), has become a majorproblem recently. Fibre type, the yarn spinning system,fabric type, and finishing process plays an important rolein the pilling properties of fabrics. Enzymes are mostlyused for bio-polishing process of fabrics which removesthe pills and fuzz from fabric surface in order to improvethe smoothness. Enzymes have been employed in thefinishing process of cellulosic textile materials for manyyears. The advantages of the utilization of specifiedenzymes for finishing process of cellulosic fabrics arelisted as follows; cleaner fabric surface with less fuzz,process simplification, reduced tendency to pill formation,cost reduction, environmentally friendly process, andimproved handling properties of fabrics. The cellulase isthe enzyme most widely used in finishing process ofcellulosic fabric. Cellulase enzymes are nontoxic,environmental friendly biocatalysts which are primarilyused to bio-polishing process. Biopolishing, also calledbio-finishing, is applied to the fabrics to remove the pillsand fuzz from fabric surface, in order to improve thesmoothness, drape, flexibility and appearance, especiallyfor knitwear and as a pre-treatment for printing. Fabricpilling is a complex phenomenon comprised of differentstages, and it is influenced by several factors. Fiber typeand cross-sectional shape, yarn type and construction,fabric type & construction and fabric finishes play animportant role in the pilling properties of fabrics [1].Many researchers have reported that, the spinning systemaffects the pilling resistance of fabrics. The yarnsproduced by different spinning systems have structuraldifferences that are expected to impact upon pillresistance. The essential steps of ring spinning areopening, cleaning, carding and drawing of the fibers andspinning them into yarn with twist. So, ring-spun yarn hasreal twist and good fiber orientation. But in an open-end
spinning system, a sliver is fed into the rotating rotor, and thetwist is inserted as the yarn is removed from the rotor andformed into the yarn. Rotor spin yarn also has real twist butpoor fiber orientation, with fibers wrapped around the yarncore [7, 14]. As a consequence of the difference in thespinning methods, the yarn constructions are different. Open-end yarns have a twisted core and loosely wrapped sheath withtrailing loops, while ring-spun yarns are well aligned along theaxis. Ring-spun yarns have good fiber orientation. As a resultof this, the strength of ring-spun yarns is 15-20% greater thanthat of open-end spun yarns. But open-end yarns have lowerstrength and higher elasticity than the corresponding Ring-spun yarn. Due to the differences in spinning methods, Ring-spun yarns have approximately 20-40% higher hairiness thanOpen-end yarns [2, 3].Pilling is a very serious problem, especially for knitted fabricsrather than woven fabrics. Although knitted fabrics have manyadvantages such as higher production rates along with lowerproduction costs, comfortable and softer fabric structures, thepilling problem remains an important objection because of theslack fabric structure [4, 5and 12]. The problem associatedwith fuzz can also be eliminated in order to improve andmaintain quality during the garment’s life by removing thefuzz, by using treatments such as singeing or by applying asurface active agent such as silicon softener to soften thesurface of the fabric, or by enzymatic bio-polishing. As ageneral rule, woven fabrics are singed to remove protrudingfibers and give the fabric a smooth handle and surfaceappearance. On the other hand, knitted fabrics are not normallysinged or defuzzed. Singeing involves the risk of scorching thefabric, whereas the use of surface-active agents reduces thewater absorbency of the fabric. They are also washed out fromthe fabric, which eventually makes them rough again.However, enzymatic removal of the fuzz is absolutely safe, ef-ficient and permanent as it is carried out under mild chemicaland physical conditions with accurate control [8, 9, and 10].The enzyme most widely used in finishing processes involving
Biopolishing treatment on yarn knitted fabrics
288
cellulosic fiber is cellulase. This enzyme is usedextensively in the bio-polishing of cellulosic fabrics. Bio-polishing can be applied to the fabric to remove the pillsand fuzz from fabric surface, to reduce the tendency ofpilling, to improve the smoothness, drape, flexibility andluster. Bio-polishing consists of a cellulose enzymetreatment to give a partial hydrolysis of cotton; so theshort fiber ends are hydrolysed, leaving the surface of thefibers free and providing a more even look. But it shouldbe considered that there is also a loss of strength related tothe amount of weight reduction [6, 11and13].
In this study, an attempt has been made to studythe effect of enzymes on single jersey fabrics knitted usingcarded and combed yarn. An enzymatic process for fuzzreduction will be carried out at different stages, and theeffect of this on pilling, strength, weight loss and thecolour differences of the fabric are studied. Earlier citedliterature does not show any results of such study, andtherefore do not reflect the facts exactly. For this reason,all the phases of this study will be specifically carried outunder common working conditions like those prevailing inthe industry.
EXPERIMENTALMaterialsCarded and combed ring-spun 24Ne cotton yarns wereused for the study. The physical properties of the yarns aretabulated briefly in Table 1. By using these yarns, singlejersey fabric samples were knitted on the sample- knittingmachine in the laboratory conditions.Enzymatic treatmentBio-polishing process was applied to the samples alongwith different finishing steps:
Process 1: - Enzymatic treatment after pre-treatment.Process 2: - Enzymatic treatment after dyeing.The cellulase enzyme G-ZYME VGB ST LIQ from RossariBiotech Ltd. was used for enzyme treatments. Enzymetreatments were carried out at different temp, time & conc. asmentioned in Table 2. The fabric samples were dyed withReactive Red HE7B. All tests will carried out in millconditions. Enzymatic treatments were carried out in Mathismachine.
TABLE 1. Physical properties of yarns
Parameter Unit Carded CombedExpected count 24s 24s
Actual Count 23.4 23.6Twist TPI 16.7 16.58TM 3.4 3.38Twist Direction Z ZTenacity gf/tex 2.2 2.29CV% 9.59 11.22Elongation % 16.35 16.4CV% 8.9 10.22Unevenness % U 12.28 10.02CV% 2.44 1.71Thin places (-50%) - 6 0CV% 110.82 -Thick places (+50%) - 254 49CV% 12.31 24.99Neps (+200%) - 332 59CV% 17.27 21.76Hairiness - 912.2 677.4CV% 3.29 11.16
TABLE 2. VariablesChemical Acid Cellulase Enzyme
Time(mins) Temperature(ºC) Concentration (gpl) Shade (%)30 30 3 0.560 45 6 1.590 60 9 3
TestingThe properties of treated fabric were tested using standardtest method. The GSM, Thickness, Bursting Strength, PillingResistance, Abrasion Resistance of the fabrics is measuredaccording to ASTM D – 3776, ASTM D – 1777, ASTM D –3786, ASTM D – 3512, ASTM D – 3884 test method.K/S valueThe colour intensity values of the dyed fabrics weremeasured by using the Macbeth Coloureye®3000Spectrophotometer Colorlab software.Bursting Strength, Pilling Resistance, Abrasion Resistanceresults were analyzed for significance in differences usingtwo- way replicated ANOVA, and the means were comparedat 0.05 level using Minitab V. 15.0 software package.RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONEffect of enzymatic treatment on GSM
From the Table 1 and Figure 1, it is clear that there issignificant change in GSM values. In carded yarn knittedfabric enzymatic treatment after pretreatment shows higherGSM values in comparision to enzymatic treatment afterdyeing and same results are observed in combed yarnknitted fabric samples. But in case of carded yarn thetreatment at 300 C for 60 min at 6 gpl concentration ofenzyme, at 45oC for 30 & 90 min for 6 & 3 gplconcentration of enzyme and at 60oC for 60 min for 3 gplconcentration of enzyme, the value of GSM for process 1 isless than process 2 and the same result is shown in case ofcombed yarn at 600C for 30 min for 9 gpl concentration ofenzyme. But the GSM values of combed yarn knitted fabricis higher than the carded yarn knitted fabic samples. Thismay be because as there are more protruding fibres on the
G.J.B.B., VOL.1 (2) 2012: 287-295 ISSN 2278 – 9103
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surface of carded yarn fabric as comapre to combed yarnfabric and because of this there will more surface eatching offibres which results in loss in weight of the fabric.Effect of enzymatic treatment on thicknessFrom the Table 2 and Figure 2, it is clear that there issignificant change in thickness values. In carded yarn knittedfabric, enzymatic treatment after dyeing shows higherthickness values in comparision to enzymatic treatment afterpretreatment and same results shows in combed yarn knittedfabric samples. But in case of carded yarn, at 300 C for 30min for 3 gpl the value of GSM of process 2 is less thanprocess 1. But the thickness values of combed yarn knittedfabric is higher than the carded yarn knitted fabic samples.The reason for this is the high amount of mechanical forcesand the long process period, which causes the removal of thefuzzes from the yarn surface.Effect of enzymatic treatment on bursting strengthThe Table 3 and Figure 3, shows the effect of enzymatictreatment on bursting strength of fabric. It is observed thatthere is decrease in bursting strenght of fabric manufacturedusing carded is more as compare to combed yarn fabric. Thismay be because of loss in thickness as well as loss in GSMof fabric which results in partly hydrolyses the cotton,which has a negative effect on fabric strength level. Fabricsfrom combed yarns gave the best strength values foruntreated and enzymatic treated in two different stages,rather than fabrics from carded yarns. After the biopolishingprocess, there is significant change in strength values. Incarded yarn knitted fabric, enzymatic treatment after dyeingshows higher bursting strength values in comparision toenzymatic treatment after pretreatment and same resultsshows in combed yarn knitted fabric samples. The fabricsamples strength loss caused by enzymatic treatment afterpretreatment or dyeing processes is nearly the same in alltype of fabrics.Effects of enzymatic treatment on pillingThe Table 4 shows the effect of enzymatic treatment onpilling of fabrics knitted using carded & combed yarn.Untreated fabrics knitted manufactured using carded &combed yarns were tested for pilling. After the evaluation ofthese results, it was observed that pilling resistance ratingsof the fabric samples from combed yarn were better than thecarded ring-spun yarn based knitted fabrics. It was observedthat, when the number of turns of the Martindale instrumentwas increased, both combed & carded yarns demonstratedhigher pilling values.When the fabric samples were tested after enzymatictreatment for pilling, it was established that the best pillingratings came from the combed yarn in comparison to cardedring spun yarn. However, we found that if enzymatictreatment was applied 2-times, the pilling ratings for allfabric samples were similar. But consequence of applyingthe enzymatic treatment twice, namely loss of weight,strength & possible deviation in colour shade. This may bebecause as carded yarn has more protruding fibres on the
surface of fabric which results in more pilling as compare tocombed yarn knitted fabric.Effects of enzymatic treatment on AbrasionTable 5 and Figure 4 show the effect on abrasion resistanceof fabric. For abrasion resistance of fabric samples the %mass loss values & % thickness loss values are recorded atthe end of abrasion cycles. The average % mass loss & %thickness loss values after abrasion of enzymatic treatmentand dyeing were given in fig 4. According to statisticalanalysis, yarn type, enzyme conc. & interaction of these twofactors are all significant factor on the abrasion resistance offabric samples.The % mass loss values & % thickness values after abrasionfor all yarn types decreased with the increase in enzymeconcentration. In both cases carded yarn & combed yarnknitted fabric % mass loss values for enzymatic treatmentafter pretreatment is higher than enzymatic treatment afterdyeing and it is vice-versa in case of % loss thickness. But incase of carded yarn, at 450 C for 60 & 90 min for 9 & 3 gplthe fabric % mass loss values for enzymatic treatment afterpretreatment is less than enzymatic treatment after dyeingand the same result is shown in case of combed yarn at 300Cfor 30 & 60 min for 3 & 6 gpl and at 600C for 30 min for 9gpl.The abrasion resistance of combed yarn knitted fabric isbetter than carded yarn knitted fabric.Effect of enzymatic treatment on colour changeThe colour differences of fabrics after enzymatic processesat different steps and untreated fabrics were measured. AsTable 6 and Figure 5 shows, the greatest colour differencevalues were observed in fabric samples that had beenenzyme-treatment after dyeing. In carded yarn knitted fabricenzymatic treatment after dyeing shows higher K/S values incomparision to enzymatic treatment after pretreatment andsame results shows in combed yarn knitted fabric samples.But in case of combed yarn at 600C,0.50% for 90mins for6gpl and 1.5% for 30 mins for 9gpl the value of K/S ofenzymatic treatment after dyeing is less than enzymatictreatment after pretreatment.Analysis of ResultsIn accordance with the results of this study, after bio-polishing which enables the fuzz to be removed to themaximum extent, substantially reducing the tendency topilling. It has been observed that the worst pilling propertiesoccurred on the carded yarn-based knitted cotton fabricswhich had been treated with ordinary chemicals withoutenzymes. The lower pilling ratings of samples from cardedyarn can be attributed to the hairy structure of the cardedyarns with fibers that partly protrude from the yarn. Thisyarn structure causes fiber fuzz, as the protruding fibersaccumulate the abrasion forces. On the contrary, open-endyarns display less hairiness, and combed yarns have a well-aligned long fibre structure. Consequently, the pillingtendency of the fabrics knitted from those yarn types issignificantly lower.
Biopolishing treatment on yarn knitted fabricsTA
BL
E 1.Effect of enzymatic treatm
ent on GSM
of fabrics knitted from carded &
combed yarn
GSM
(gm)
Type of yarn
CA
RD
ED
YA
RN
CO
MB
ED
YA
RN
Tem
perature (˚C)
3045
6030
4560
Tim
e (mins)
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
Concentration (g/l)
36
96
93
93
63
69
69
39
36
Process-1209.6
202.8209.6
201.2198.4
204.4200.8
205.2196.8
210205.2
209.6207.6
208206.4
200.4206
204.4
Process-2198.4
206.4207.6
205.2196.8
206198.4
208.4196.8
200.8198.8
202.4200.8
203.2205.2
204.4204.8
204
FIGU
RE 1.Effect of enzym
atic treatment on G
SM of fabrics knitted from
carded & com
bed yarn
290
G.J.B.B., VOL.1 (2) 2012: 287-295 ISSN 2278 – 9103TA
BL
E 2.Effect of enzymatic treatm
ent on Thickness of fabrics knitted from carded &
combed yarn
TH
ICK
NE
SS (mm
)T
ype of yarnC
AR
DE
D Y
AR
NC
OM
BE
D Y
AR
N
Tem
perature (˚C)
3045
6030
4560
Tim
e (mins)
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
Concentration (g/l)
36
96
93
93
63
69
69
39
36
Process-10.568
0.560.544
0.5550.536
0.5490.543
0.5390.513
0.5760.551
0.5490.551
0.5440.539
0.5450.547
0.541
Process-20.557
0.5750.569
0.5770.54
0.5610.565
0.5710.569
0.5830.576
0.5760.575
0.5590.583
0.5850.583
0.571
FIGU
RE 2.Effect of enzym
atic treatment on thickness of fabrics knitted from
carded & com
bed yarn
291
Biopolishing treatment on yarn knitted fabrics
TAB
LE 3.Effect of enzym
atic treatment on bursting of fabrics knitted from
carded & com
bed yarnB
UR
STIN
G ST
RE
NG
TH
Type of yarn
CA
RD
ED
YA
RN
CO
MB
ED
YA
RN
Tem
perature (˚C)
3045
6030
4560
Tim
e (mins)
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
Concentration (g/l)
36
96
93
93
63
69
69
39
36
Process-17.482
6.6776.198
6.0375.894
6.2296.324
6.0015.417
6.7746.67
6.6316.456
6.046.357
6.7026.25
5.949Process-2
7.6747.447
6.8896.774
6.2916.756
6.7426.835
6.8977.674
7.4686.962
7.0147.441
7.0457.208
7.2777.2
FIGU
RE 3.Effect of enzym
atic treatment on bursting of fabrics knitted from
carded & com
bed yarn
292
G.J.B.B., VOL.1 (2) 2012: 287-295 ISSN 2278 – 9103TA
BL
E 4.Effectof enzymatic treatm
ent on pilling of fabrics knitted from carded &
combed yarn
PILL
ING
Type of yarn
CA
RD
ED
YA
RN
CO
MB
ED
YA
RN
Tem
perature (˚C)
3045
6030
4560
Tim
e (mins)
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
Concentration (g/l)
36
96
93
93
63
69
69
39
36
Process-13-4
3-44-5
4-53-4
2-33-4
3-44-5
3-44-5
4-53-4
4-54-5
4-54-5
4-5Process-2
2-33-4
3-43-4
3-44-5
4-53-4
2-32-3
4-54-5
3-44-5
3-43-4
2-33-4
Table 5.Effect of enzymatic treatm
ent on Abrasion of fabrics knitted from
carded & com
bed yarnA
BR
ASIO
N R
ESIST
AN
CE
Type of yarn
CA
RD
ED
YA
RN
CO
MB
ED
YA
RN
Tem
perature (˚C)
3045
6030
4560
Tim
e (mins)
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
Concentration (g/l)
36
96
93
93
63
69
69
39
36
Process-1%
Loss in wt.
2.1342.297
2.6522.799
1.6712.026
2.4162.159
2.4262.204
2.0522.07
2.8813.524
2.2231.746
2.3982.421
Process-2%
Loss in wt.
2.1052.011
2.1941.733
2.252.441
2.2561.919
2.2132.272
2.2492.102
1.6511.364
1.731.936
2.2092.103
Process-1%
Loss in thickness9.423
7.5726.811
7.9416.695
8.1637.894
7.9236.577
9.088.699
6.8816.29
6.4236.841
7.8196.111
6.102
Process-2%
Loss in thickness14.123
12.88111.057
12.49312.41
9.77412.354
12.24811.436
11.8559.72
10.13710.748
12.02911.013
10.67110.736
14.256
FIGU
RE 4.Effect of enzym
atic treatment on A
brasion resistance of fabrics knitted fromcarded &
combed yarn
293
Biopolishing treatment on yarn knitted fabricsTA
BL
E 6.Effect of enzymatic treatm
ent on K/S of fabrics knitted from
carded & com
bed yarnK
/ST
ype of yarnC
AR
DE
D Y
AR
NC
OM
BE
D Y
AR
N
Tem
perature (˚C)
3045
6030
4560
% Shade
0.51.5
3.03.0
0.51.5
1.53
0.50.5
1.53.0
3.00.5
1.51.5
30.5
Tim
e (mins)
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
3060
9030
6090
Concentration (g/l)
36
96
93
93
63
69
69
39
36
Process-10.788
1.4922.436
2.4570.747
1.5511.511
2.4480.812
0.9451.807
2.5882.636
0.9291.783
1.9412.613
0.964
Process-20.921
1.6182.564
2.5180.898
1.731.674
2.6220.968
0.9921.891
2.8752.985
1.041.953
1.8292.923
0.948
FIGU
RE 5.Effect of enzym
atic treatment on K
/S of fabrics knitted from carded &
combed yarn
294
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It is also observed that there was no significant differencebetween the pilling behaviors of the fabric samples, ir-respective of whether the fabric samples had been pre-treated or dyed before the enzymatic process. Onceapplied, enzymatic treatment causes a strength loss whichfalls within acceptable limits. Double enzymatic treatmentcauses severe strength loss beyond acceptable limitsThis may be explained by the mechanism of bio-polishing.Enzymes are surface-active; during the first bio-polishingprocess, they will most probably act mainly on theprotruding excessive fibrilious surfaces, and also on theouter surfaces of the yarn. In second bio-polishing process,enzymes will react on the increased surface area, and theywill damage the yarn to the major extent to cause severestrength and weight loss. Although twice bio-polishingimproves pilling properties, this will take place at theexpense of basic fabric requirements such as strength andweight.The reasons for the slightly higher weight loss of fabricsamples enzymatically treated after pre-treatment thanthose after dyeing are the more number of process phases,the high amount of mechanical forces and the long processperiod, which cause the removal of the fuzzes from yarnsurface. When the weight loss is compared according tothe yarn spinning system, the fabric from carded yarn hasthe highest value of weight loss while that from combedyarn has the lowest. The amount of weight loss that occursafter the double enzymatic treatment is significantly high-er. Because of the higher loss of weight, the doubleenzymatic treatment is not recommended for normalapplications. When the color difference values of dyedfabrics are examined, severe deviations in colour shade onenzyme treatment after dyeing were observed.
CONCLUSIONS When carded and combed yarns are considered,
carded yarn-based knitted fabrics treated withenzymes exhibited the worst pilling properties. Thepilling behavior of enzymatic treated fabric samplesdid not display any significant difference whetherthey were pre-treated or dyed.
It is evident that single enzymatic treatment reducespilling tendency, and double enzymatic treatment re-duces it more. Double enzymatic treatment affectswith the weight and the strength of fabrics severely,even beyond the acceptable limits.
The results demonstrate that enzymatic treatmentcauses weight loss in carded yarns to the highestdegree.
Enzyme treatment after dyeing fabric samples displaysevere colour deviations in comparison to enzymetreatment after pretreatment. This subject merits adetailed investigation.
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