eco fibres and eco friendly textiles 2
TRANSCRIPT
Organic cotton India conventional cotton India
Organic cotton World
production
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECTCalifornia's Central Valley
ORGANIC COTTON
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECT
ORGANIC COTTON REDUCTION IN AGROCHEMICALS
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country 1992 1993
1994 1995
1996 1997
Argentina 2 120 126 132 70
Australia 479 500 750 400 500 400
Benin 5
Brazil 2 9 1 5 5
Egypt 38 141 598 600 650 630
Greece 450 500 475 400
India 206 268 398 928 900 900
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Israel 100 100 50
Mozambique 90 90 50
Nicaragua 16 20 20 20
Paraguay 100 75 50 50 50
Peru' 400 700 924 1516 1500 650
Turkey 2 20 30
Tanzania 33 100 100 200
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Uganda 16 150 250 300 800
USA 2155 4274 5365 7425 3396 2852
Zambia 35 30 30
Zimbabway 5
Total 3408 6201 9498 12864 9028 7967
Organic T shirtorganic sweat
shirtorgnic terry robe
Organic fashion wear
Organic night gown
Organic slippers
Earth Friendly Fashions
Simplify Life, Relax Your Mind, Calm Your Soul, Open Your Heart.
Experience Fisher Henney Naturals
Organic cotton body wear
Organic cotton apparel
Organic cotton apparels
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION
BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL
IN INDIA
NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON
LOW YIELD
SEED AVAILABILITY
LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH
LOW STRENGTH
POOR SPINNABILITY
LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY
LIMITED COLOUR RANGE
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON
ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE
IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
SHADES
PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST COMMON
OTHER SHADES
CREAM
PINK
MAUVE
COUNTRIES
INDIA
USA
ISRAEL
CHINAPERU
IMPORTANT ASPECTS
EARLIER
LOW FIBRE LENGTH, POOR SPINNABILITY
YARN SPINNING OF 10 TO 12s COUNT
RESEARCH INPUTS
IMPROVED FIBRE QUALITY
POSSIBLE TO SPIN YARNS OF 30 AND 40s COUNT
SUITABLE FOR WEAVING AND KNITTING
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS
GREEN VARIETY TURNS BROWN IF NOT HARVESTED ON RIPENING
BROWN VARIETY DARKENS WITH AGE AND EXPOSURE TO LIGHT
GREEN AND BRWON DARKEN ON LAUNDERING
NOT FAST TO BLEACHING
COTTON CORPORATION OF INDIA AND CENTRAL COTTON RESEARCH INSTITUTE NAGPUR
1996-97 INVESTMENT Rs. 80 LAKHS
CULTIVATION OF COLOURED COTTON AT
KHANDWA, MADHYA PRADESH
DHARWAD, KARNATAKA
PROJECT DID NOT SUCEED DUE TO POOR MARKET RESPONSE
DEMAND OF HIGH PRICE BY FARMERS
MAJOR PROBLEM
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTO FIELDS
NECESSARY TO HAVE SEPARATE AREA FOR COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION
MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS
LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY
BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON
CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING
ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER
ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE
POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS
DO NOT BLEACH
Dr. B.M. Khadi at the University of Agriculture Science Dharwad
developed
Brown, Green and cream coloured cotton
Seeds available for cultivation
Till 1960 coloured cotton grown in some parts of India was exported to
Japan
Coloured cotton is insect and desease resistant and also drought tolerent
Innovation failed to take market place
The Cottton Project at the college of agriculture, Khandwa is engaged in research to boost the production and productivity of
coloured cotton
In 1996, the centre has been successful in developing a variety of cotton which produces seed cotton having natural almond
brown colour (JCC-1).
There is a vast scope in this direction as such a genotypes will avoid the use of synthetic dyes
the demand of organically grown cotton is increasing very fast.
Some more colours are being developed
Rocklea spinning Mills in collaboration with Australian farmers introduced range of yarns from brown and green
varieties of cotton
Blending of coloured cotton with white cotton in diffferent proporations produce shade
varieties
Australia
In Australia, Jeff & Marilyn Bidstrup, pioneered Australian
coloured cotton,
When blended, this cotton produces a beautiful "Sand Dune"
colour, ideal for our first EcoDownUnder towels.
The Bidstrups are leading the industry with Landcare Australia
awards and minimising their impact on the environment through "dry
land farming" rather than irrigating.
Environmental management by rotating cotton crops every 3
seasons and no harsh chemicals applied to their land for over 3
years has seen yields become some of the highest in the industry.
NATIVE COLOUR COTTON PROJECT
PERU
•COMMENCED IN 1984 TO DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY TO SUPPORT
INDIGENOUS FARMERS AND TRADITIONAL ARTISANS
•15000 FARDMERS CULTIVATE COLOURED COTTON
•50000 WOMEN INVOLVED IN TRADITIONAL HAND SPINNING AND
HAND WEAVING•COLOURED COTTON IS PRODUCED WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC
FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES•COTTON PLANT GROWS UP TO 5
METERS HIGHYIELD 10 KG PER PLANT
•REMARKABLY RESISTANT TO PEST AND DISEASES
•THRIVES IN MARGINAL SOILS WITH LITTLE OR NO RAIN FALL
PRE-HISPANIC GRAVE in the Chancay Valley of Peru is heaped with naturally colored cotton bolls. The ancient people of this coastal area filled the body of the deceased with the cotton, which would absorb the bodily fluids, thereby aiding in the process of mummification. The arid sands of the region preserved the cotton (which was removed from the body when this grave was looted.)
SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR
VARIETIES
CREAM
Pista green
MEDIUM BROWN
REDDISH BROWN
CHOCOLATE BROWN
MAUVE
Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties
COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM
PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES ANDSYNTHETIC COLOURS
Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by SKAL, Dutch certifying agency
PERUVIAN TAPESTRY from A.D. 1000 depicts a cotton plant complete with roots, leaves, stems, flowers and ripening cotton bolls spilling forth with naturally pigmented cotton
Four species of cotton have different lint lengths.
COTTON HARVESTING is done by hand in Peru
Women then sort the cotton, also by hand, for color and quality.
Traditional spinning bowl
LINT FIBER greatly enlarged reveals the natural twist The dark masses impart the natural color.
Coloured cotton bolls are hand picked
Small quantity is used for craft production and domestic consumption in rural market.
Large quantity is consumed in uraban market as
textile products
Medical remedy for over fifty somatic and psychosomatic disorders
Colour cotton cultivation by traditional farmers is officially protected
Large number of traditional farmers are immensely benefited
No patents are held on native colored cotton, respecting and promoting the crop
protection rights of the indigenous people of Peru.
Today Indian descendants of ancient Peruvian cultures still harvest, gin and spin by hand the natural colored cottons of Peru.
Slivers of coloured cotton
Naturally coloured yarn for Kniting and Weaving
Coloured cotton fabrics
COTTON CLOTHES in naturally occurring colors are produced in Peru
Sally Fox was introduced to colored cotton while
working for a cotton breeder, whose focus was
developing pest-resistant strains of cotton.
The peoples of Central and South America had spun
these strains for centuries, but the fiber qualities were
not sufficient for modern machine spinning.
Here was Sally Fox’s opportunity to combine her
concern for the environment,
work in her field of entomology,
and practice her favorite pastime, spinning and weaving
Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an ancient agricultural art.
Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®.
Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and continues research.
Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and greens.
Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton Colours, both operating in Arizona.
Natural qualities found in Fox Fibre:Furnish lasting color; repeated washings intensify colors bringing out the warm and rich color tones
Enable our cottons to be spun from 100% solid color
to any percentage of color blends. Blends of Fox Fibre colors (with each other or with white) can
create all of the color shades within the beige, khaki, brown, red brown, dark brown, and green color
spectrums
Provide a fire retardant tendency
Eliminate the need for bleaches, dyes, & other costly processes during textile and product manufacturing
Sally Fox is associted with Athena Mills Arizona
Athena Mills is recognized as a leader for two environmentally descriptive trademarks - Colorganic® and Colour-By-Nature®.
Both marks ensure the final product's color is from naturally colored cotton.
Colorganic additionally ensures certified organic growing practices for all of the cotton fibers in the final product.
Fox Fibre offers consumers an ecological alternative in cotton: today's purchase for tomorrow's environment
ECO LABELS
Eco-labels are product labels that
inform consumers about the environmental impact of a
product. They encourage producers to switch to environmentally sound production
process methods (PPMs) for advantage in the marketplace. Eco-labels allow producers to
differentiate their products from products that are less
environmentally friendly and
thus to reach environmentally conscious consumers.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT
CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT
1. Production of raw materials
2. Production of the end product
3. Packaging and transport of raw
materials and the finished product
4. Use of the product by companies and
consumers
5. Disposal of the product
e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the
cotton field and ends in the incineration
plant.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
•As little use as possible of chemical substances harmful to the environment
•No or very few heavy metals in the product
•Energy conservation during production and use
•The lowest possible amounts of harmful
substances in wastewater
•Requirements which ensure that the product works well and will last long
Opportunities for recycling/reuse
•The product should be as unproblematic as
possible in terms of waste
POTENTIALLY HARMFUL SUBSTANCES
pH
Formaldehyde
Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni,
Hg)
Pesticides Chlorinated phenols
Dyestuffs (specific classifications)
Chlorinated organic carriers
Boicidal finishes
Flame retardent finishes
Colour fastness
Emission of volatiles
Odours
Republic of China–TaiwanGreen Mark
Thailand (Thai Green Label
Korea Environmental
Labelling
Japan Eco Mark
India Eco MarkAustralia/New Zealand Environmental ChoiceEuropean Union Eco-label “Flower”
scheme
Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan )
Austrian Eco-label
Croatia (Environmental Label)
Netherland Ecolabel Foundation