Duke in Alaska: The Juneau Experience

By: Naveen Hrishikesh, Brittany Amano, Karley Whelan, and Richard Mannarino

Auke Lake Trail The first activity on the Juneau itinerary was a scenic hike of the nearby Auke Lake Trail. We walked the trail, amazed by the natural beauty, the stunning mountain views across the lake, and wary of bears! On our first class hike, Professor Shaw led the group down the path, stopping near a small stream to share some advice (Figure 1). “Fill your notebooks with observations of your surroundings. What kind of forest are we in? Is it dry? Wet? What types of plant life do you see? Do you see any bears…,” he joked. Our pens quickly scribbled field notes identifying the wet, shady conditions of the trail and describing the native flora. Professor Shaw pulled a few branches and leaves from a nearby plant and passed them around to the group, instructing us to look closely, use the field guide, and work together to identify the class’s first specimen. We identified the common shrub as Sambucus racemosa and sat on the lakeside’s fallen trees to discuss the usefulness of the field guide’s key. Mendenhall Glacier We experienced Mendenhall Glacier on two separate occasions: once on a hike to the outlook and another where a small group of students ventured all the way to the glacier. These adventures occurred on June 3rd and June 8th, both equally tiring but breathtaking, nonetheless. We took photos that feature the glacier and surrounding mountain area, along with the plants that comprise the valley's biodiversity (Figure 2). On the West Glacier Trail, we saw

Figure 1: Professor Shaw can be seen talking about the plants that we identified.

Figure 2: Pictured here is a view of Mendenhall Glacier from the Visitor’s Center.

that the forest was young evidenced by the trees being smaller than those of the same species in other forests nearby. This is an example of primary succession, where the forest used to be an area underneath the glacier that was devoid of plant life. In the forest, we saw many of the plants that we discussed along other trails and in class, including Sitka alder (Alnus sinuata), stair-step moss (Hylocomium splendens), more hemlock (Tsuga spp.) and Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis, Figure 3), and different fungi. It was interesting to see the plants we were learning in class right in front of us, and to be able to see them through our hand lens. Brittany showed some “shaka” Hawaiian pride as she looked at the stunning view that Mendenhall had to offer (Figure 4). We thought this was the closest we would ever get to the glacier and wanted to appreciate its beauty even if from afar. Little did we know that a few days later, we would make the trek to the glacier ourselves. From this far away, you cannot

begin to appreciate the beauty and science behind the glacier. At the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor’s Center, we watched videos that answered our questions regarding things including why the glacier was blue, safe ways to see the glacier, as well as the history of the glacier. The movie that was playing was also an interesting way to learn about the forms of Alaskan biodiversity. There was a viewing scope where you could see a mountain goat, as well as Nugget Falls up close. Also in the visitor's center were the skins of a dead mountain goat and black bear, which are hopefully the closest we’ll get to these animals (Figure 5). We loved Mendenhall Glacier so much that we had to head back and hike to the ice caves before we left Juneau. We spent about 4 hours hiking down to the glacier which was one of the most beautiful sights we had ever seen. The glacier was breaking apart by the minute which was sad to think that the glacier won’t be around much longer due to the warming climate. Although the hike down was challenging, seeing the glacier was worth the pain.

Figure 3: Sitka alder (Alnus sinuata) can be found along the path near Mendenhall Glacier.

Figure 4: Brittany Amano holds up a “shaka” sign while observing Mendenhall Glacier from the Visitor’s Center.

Figure 5: The amazing taxidermy of a mountain goat and black bear can be seen in the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor’s Center.

Pictured here is our TA Bryan taking a selfie with us inside the glacier. (Figure 6) The glacier is blue in color due to the density of the ice which can absorb every color in the visible spectrum except for blue. On our walk back up, we saw the signs that marked where the glacier used to be less than 100 years ago which was about the length of our 4-hour hike. Bryan also pointed out a lot of the plants that grew along the path which helped us practice for our plant quiz. We saw one of his favorite flowers along the trail, a species of columbine (Aquilegia sp.) in bloom (Figure 7). The hike to the glacier ice caves was one of the highlights of our trip and was a great way to see climate change firsthand. Although it was a challenging trek, we all really bonded as a group and appreciated getting to see, touch, and even taste the glacier up close. Auke Bay Recreational Area Beach For a little after dinner adventure, we went to a small beach in Auke Bay to look at some more biodiversity in Juneau. It ended up being a fun time where many opportunities for pictures arose. We also were lucky enough to see a whale towards the end. Not even Bryan had ever seen one so close. It must have sensed we were near! We decided to take a picture in front of the amazing scenery. It was interesting to see what Alaskans consider a beach as opposed to what many of us consider a beach in many of our home states. We took photos of the beach to document this wonderful experience (Figure 8). The whale is an amazing example of a species important to the biodiversity of Alaska. It is rare to see a whale so close to shore, but we were lucky enough to experience it. We could see the whale come up from below the water and blow water through its blowhole (Figure 9). How amazing! It was a peaceful ending to a long day exploring Juneau’s biodiverse landscapes. From the glacier to the ocean, Juneau has

Figure 6: Bryan Piatkowski taking a selfie with the 5 students who went on the Mendenhall Glacier Hike.

Figure 7: This flower is from a species of columbine (Aquilegia sp.) and is one of Bryan’s favorites.

Figure 8: We decided to study the biodiversity of the beach around Auke Bay.

a wide range of plants and wildlife that can be seen. In this photograph from the shore of Auke Bay, Naveen Hrishikesh looks out over the water (Figure 10).

Mount Roberts On June 5th, the class woke up early to make our journey to Downtown Juneau to finally have a view from above tree level. The view from the tramway up to Mount Roberts was a great way to see all of downtown Juneau (Figure 11). The tram has been in operation since 1996 and provides a trip up 1800 feet in under 6 minutes. At the top of the tramway there are restaurants, nature centers, retail shops, and a movie theatre. Outside of these buildings are trails leading to the peak of the mountain. The ANCSA Corporation for Alaska natives runs the tram and many of the employees are Alaskan natives themselves. As we made our way to the beginning of the Alpine Loop Trail, we stumbled upon this informative sign detailing some of the biodiversity found on Mount Roberts (Figure 12A). Professor Shaw talked about the stunting of the trees as you go further up the mountain. Professor Shaw talked about Krummholz vegetation, a phenomenon where trees and shrubs at higher elevation appear stunted. The two primary trees found on the mountain were Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis) and mountain hemlock (Tsuga

Figure 11: Downtown Juneau could be seen from the Mt. Roberts tramway.

Figure 9: We were lucky enough to have spotted a whale from the beach at Auke Bay.

Figure 10: Naveen looks out onto Auke Bay from the beach.

mertensiana); both species of plants that produce cones. Along the trail, other species of plants could be seen including many flowering plants such as lupin (Lupinus sp., Figure 12B) and bunchberry (Cornus canadensis). It was a cool experience to apply what we learned in class to identify paths along the way.

We stopped along the way to appreciate the natural beauty of the mountain. The snow-capped mountain chain has cirques, or valleys, that are formed through the presence of glaciers (Figure 13). When glacial melting occurs, water flows down along to the base of the valley and into major fjords. It was interesting to see what we had learned in the first day of class right in front of us. The beauty was so intense that we just had to get a picture in front of it.

Figure 12A and Figure 12B: This is a photo of a sign showing the plants and wildlife that live on Mount Roberts. Along the trail we saw lupin, one of the many plants that make up the biodiversity of the mountain.

Figure 13: The Duke in Alaska students smile for a photo on the Alpine Loop Trail on Mount Roberts.

Having brought our lunch with us, Brittany took a pit stop along the trail to enjoy her hummus sandwich. In the background, you can see the mountain and its relationship to the biodiversity on the mountains. This biodiversity includes humans and plants, such as Brittany eating her sandwich (Figure 14). After this, our bodies cold and tired, we decided to make the trek back down the mountain.

As we neared the tram headed back to downtown Juneau, we stopped and observed a bald eagle named Lady Baltimore (Figure 15). She was rescued after being shot in the beak and her wing, that impacted her enough to lose sight in her right eye. The Juneau Raptor Center nursed her back to health and she is now displayed as an educational animal at the top of Mount Roberts Tramway. The attendant who spoke to us about Lady Baltimore is of Alaskan Native descent herself, and gave us some historical facts about Alaskans coming to Hawaii after learning that Brittany was from there. It was interesting to find a connection between the two states and learn that a canoe from Alaska reached Hawaii around 200 BC, nearly 2000 years before the British explorer Captain James Cook did. After a long day hiking Mount Roberts, a group of students headed to dinner at Twisted Fish Company to enjoy some fresh, locally caught Alaskan fish. Pictured here is some smoked salmon that is sustainably farmed and sourced from Taku Fisheries (Figure 16). It was the perfect way to end a great time exploring downtown Juneau! Peatlands On the last full day in Juneau, Teaching Assistant Bryan Piatkowski smiled as he led us across one of his favorite places to explore - Alaskan peatlands. Pointing out different types

Figure 14: Pictured here is Brittany Amano eating a sandwich on Mount Roberts.

Figure 15: Pictured here is Lady Baltimore, a bald eagle that was rescued by the Alaska Raptor Center.

Figure 16: A photo of Brittany’s delightful meal: a plate of smoked salmon at Twisted Fish Company Restaurant.

of Sphagnum, or peatmoss, he grinned as he explained the vital role that the multicolored Sphagnum plays in the carbon cycle. We were fascinated by the crucial role that peat moss plays in the environment and ecosystems alike. Given today’s environmental and political uncertainty, we discussed the importance of understanding the role of peat moss and peatlands in the global ecosystem. Using our hand lenses to get a closer look, we took note of the anatomy of the moss. After we jumped around on the squishy surface, Jon led us to a pine tree and asked us to identify the plant using the field guide’s key - it was the shore pine, Pinus contorta. The peatlands are home to several species of Sphagnum, carnivorous plants, microscopic eukaryotes, millions of microbes, shrubs, and a few small pine trees. Jon called our attention to a unique carnivorous plant, the sundew (Drosera sp.) that captures insects to obtain nitrogen in this nutrient-poor environment. Later, Bryan sloshed through a peat-filled depression, pointing out the bubbles of methane gas that rose to the surface when he disrupted the watery peat (Figure 17A). Looking closely at the peatlands, our eyes were opened to a brand new, and very small, world of biodiversity (Figure 17B).

Figure 17a and 17b: Bryan can be seen stomping around in the peat and dislodging methane bubbles. Growing on top of peatmoss, pictured on the right, is a species of sundew (Drosera sp.) that we identified.

A B