ds caribbean 1

D E S T I N A T I O N S P E C I A L I S T

Caribbeanincluding the Atlantic

Sponsored by

andThe Travel Institute Fund

Part 1Introduction and the Atlantic

Bermuda, Bahamas, and Turks and Caicos Islands

Northern CaribbeanCayman Islands, Jamaica, Haiti, Dominican Republic,

Puerto Rico, U.S. Virgin Islands, and British Virgin Islands

AmericanAirlines®

Something special in the air.TM

Front Cover

Beach scene, photo © St. Vincent and the Grenadines Tourist Office

Diving in the waters off St. Lucia, photo © St. Lucia Tourist Board

The Travel Institute is not responsible for the results of actions takenon the basis of opinions, recommendations, or advice offered in thisbook. All rates are published for illustrative purposes only. The TravelInstitute is not responsible for the accuracy of rates or descriptions ofthe properties and services of suppliers reproduced in this book.

© Board of Trustees of The Travel Institute, 2000, 2003, 2004

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrievalsystem, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,mechanical photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the priorwritten permission of The Travel Institute.

Dear Travel Professional,

American Airlines, in its ninth year of sponsorship of The Travel Institute’s DestinationSpecialist Caribbean course, salutes the dedicated travel professionals who have enrolled inThe Travel Institute’s programs. Your dedication to the Caribbean product is demonstratedby your continued education, understanding, and drive to give your customers what theydeserve—professional service.

Service begins with the travel professional providing a seamless experience that helps toshape the decision of how today’s travelers will spend their discretionary income, and withwhom they will spend it the next time. The key question is “Will they come back?”

Several components make up the travel experience, and when all of those componentscome together dreams are fulfilled. By providing the means for today’s travelers to fulfilltheir dreams, the door-to-door service that the discriminating traveler demands, is and willcontinue to be the impetus to keep the travel industry moving forward.

Today, customers have many choices of travel professional; “What will make you standout?” It is only through knowledge, understanding, and commitment to your product thatyou will excel in today’s market and reap the financial rewards.

Together we are dream makers, or dream breakers—if we do not meet their expectations.

American Airlines is committed to the Caribbean, and through its continued collaborationwith government, the Caribbean Hotel Association, the Caribbean Tourism Organization,and other private sector partners, along with the professional travel agent community andThe Travel Institute, the Caribbean will remain the world’s premier travel destination.

Sincerely,

Robert H. TroniManaging Director International Sales and MarketingCaribbean and Latin America

Preface vii

Alphabetical Destinations xi

Introduction 1Geography of the Caribbean 2

Location of Caribbean Regions 6

Accessibility: Getting to the Caribbean 10

Local Transportation 15

Accommodations 17

Practical Information 20

Caribbean History and Culture 27

Shopping: Imports and Local Arts and Crafts 40

Sights and Attractions 41

Dining and Entertainment 42

Selling the Caribbean: Specialty Niches 44

For More Online Information 55

How to Study the Individual Destination Chapters 56

The Atlantic 63Bermuda 65

Bahamas 77

Turks and Caicos Islands 95

Northern Caribbean 103Cayman Islands 105

Jamaica 115

Haiti 129

Dominican Republic 139

Puerto Rico 151

Contents

© The Travel Institute Contents • v

Contents of Part 2Eastern Caribbean—

The Leeward Islands 1Anguilla 3St-Martin/Sint Maarten 11St-Barthélemy

(St. Barts) 21Saba 29St. Eustatius (Statia) 37St. Kitts and Nevis 45Antigua and Barbuda 57Montserrat 67

Eastern Caribbean—TheWindward Islands 73

Guadeloupe 75Dominica 87Martinique 99St. Lucia 109Barbados 121St. Vincent and the

Grenadines 131Grenada 141

Contents of Part 3Southern Caribbean 1Trinidad and Tobago 3The ABC Islands 15

Aruba 19Bonaire 27Curaçao 35

Western Caribbean and the Coast of Latin America 43

Cuba 45Mexico (Yucatán) 49Central America 55

Belize 55Honduras—The BayIslands 60

continued on next page

U.S. Virgin Islands 167

British Virgin Islands 179

© The Travel Institutevi • Destination Specialist Caribbean

Part 3 continuedPanama—The San BlasIslands 62

South America 65Colombia 65Venezuela 67Guyana 70Suriname 73

Index 77

Course Organization

Course BookletsThe course booklets are your guides to the Caribbean. There is anextensive introduction to the Caribbean. The destinations featured inthe course and Study Guide are presented geographically for ease oflearning. Most destinations offer the following information:

• Map, Profile, and Fast Facts

• Historical Background

• Arrival and Location Briefing

• Local Transportation

• Around the Island: Attractions

• What’s Special about (the Destination)?

• Island Culture

• Celebrations and Special Events

Study GuideThe Study Guide includes useful information about how to studyDestination Specialist Caribbean and how to prepare for the test. Mapskills and study questions are also included to help you in the learningprocess. The Destination Specialist Caribbean Test Request Form canbe found near the end of the Study Guide, or you can request the testonline at www.thetravelinstitute.com/testreq.htm.

Job AidA laminated desktop quick-reference Job Aid puts sales-relatedinformation at your fingertips. It is designed to enhance your sellingpotential and includes a map of the Caribbean and highlights of eachdestination.

© The Travel Institute Preface • vii

Preface

• Dining and Entertainment

• Cruise Call

• Selling (the Destination)

• Island Secrets

• Key Points about (the Destination)

• For More Information

• My Contact Information

Destination Specialist SeriesThe Travel Institute’s Destination Specialist series provides detailedknowledge of specific world areas. Destinations in the series in additionto the Caribbean are

• Africa

• Alaska

• East Asia

• European Culture and Heritage

• France

• Hawai‘i

• Mexico

For more information about The Travel Institute’s programs visit ourWeb site at www.thetravelinstitute.com.

AcknowledgementsThe Travel Institute would like to thank Bruno Ociepka, CTC, forresearching and writing the materials for this course. He has extensiveretail travel agency, and travel and tourism teaching experience. He hastraveled to more than half the destinations covered in this course.Bruno co-authored The Travel Institute’s Travel Career Developmenttextbook, sixth edition, and wrote Destination Specialist NorthAmerica. He also wrote the following: Bahamas Tourism Institute’sThe Islands of the Bahamas Self-Study Guide, the Tourist Office ofSpain’s Spain Specialist Program, and British Tourist Authority’s BritAgent Program.

Thanks are also extended to Carolyn Viles, CTC, at The TravelInstitute, project manager for the development of this course. TheTravel Institute would also like to acknowledge Linda McLatchie forher thorough copy editing and Sybil Norwood for her graphic designprowess.

© The Travel Instituteviii • Destination Specialist Caribbean

• North America

• Northern and CentralEurope

• South Pacific

• Spain

• St. Lucia

How Do I Earn My Destination Specialist Designation?After you have studied this course, complete steps 1 and 2 to receiveyour Destination Specialist designation (Level 1).

1. Submit your completed Destination Specialist Test Request Form.

You may either use the Destination Specialist Test Request Form atthe back of this course or request your test online at www.thetravelinstitute.com /testreq.htm.

Be sure to indicate which type of test you prefer: online or written.Online test requests require three business days advance notice. Testrequests for written exams must be received at least three weeks priorto the test date.

You must also provide information about the person you select toproctor your test. This person should be a responsible CTC or aperson of authority who is neither related to you nor currentlyenrolled in your Destination Specialist program. Your test proctorensures that you complete the test within the allotted time frame in asecured testing environment. Designated proctors receive the onlinetest or written test instructions from The Travel Institute, supervisethe test in an appropriate test site, and, in the case of a written test,return the test to The Travel Institute for grading.

2. Take your Destination Specialist test.

If you are taking an online test, instructions to access the test will be e-mailed to your designated proctor. You will receive your test resultsonline immediately upon completion of the test.

If you are taking a written test, your test will be sent to the proctoryou designated on the Destination Specialist Test Request Form,along with instructions for administering the test. You will receive theresults of your test by regular mail from The Travel Institute within 21business days of the date The Travel Institute receives your completedtest from the proctor.

© The Travel Institute Preface • ix

The following list includes the major destinations and islands in theTable of Contents, their capitals, and major cities and towns. It

can serve as one way to review when you are done with the text. Toreview, simply see if you can identify where each place name is andwhat you know about it.

Abacos, The Part 1, 83Andros Island Part 1, 86Anegada Part 1, 182Anguilla Part 2, 3Antigua Part 2, 57Aruba Part 3, 19

Bahamas, The Part 1, 77Barbados Part 2, 121Barbuda Part 2, 57Bay Islands, The Part 3, 60Belize Part 3, 55Bequia Part 2, 135Bermuda Part 1, 65Berry Islands Part 1, 87Bimini Islands Part 1, 86Bonaire Part 3, 27British Virgin Islands Part 1, 179

Caicos Islands Part 1, 95Cancún Part 3, 49Canouan Part 2, 135Caracas Part 3, 67Carriacou Part 2, 145Cartagena Part 3, 65Cat Island Part 1, 87Cayman Islands Part 1, 105Cozumel Part 3, 51Cuba Part 3, 45

© The Travel Institute Alphabetical Destinations • xi

AlphabeticalDestinations

Curaçao Part 3, 35

Dominica Part 2, 87Dominican Republic (Dominicana) Part 1, 139

Elbow Cay Part 1, 84Eleuthera Part 1, 84Exumas, The Part 1, 85

Freeport Part 1, 80

Georgetown, Guyana Part 3, 70Grand Bahama Island Part 1, 80Green Turtle Cay Part 1, 84Grenada Part 2, 141Grenadines Part 2, 131Guadeloupe Part 2, 75Guyana Part 3, 70

Haiti Part 1, 129Hamilton Part 1, 69Havana Part 3, 46Harbour Island Part 1, 85

Inagua Part 1, 87

Jamaica Part 1, 115Jost Van Dyke Part 1, 182

Kingston Part 1, 121

La Guaira Part 3, 67Long Island Part 1, 87

Margarita Island Part 3, 68Marie-Galante Part 2, 80Martinique Part 2, 99Mayreau Part 2, 136Montego Bay Part 1, 118Montserrat Part 2, 67Mustique Part 2, 135

Nassau Part 1, 81Negril Part 1, 117Nevis Part 2, 45New Providence Island Part 1, 81

Ocho Rios Part 1, 119

© The Travel Institutexii • Destination Specialist Caribbean

Palm Island Part 2, 136Paradise Island Part 1, 81Paramaribo Part 3, 74Peter Island Part 1, 182Petit St. Vincent Part 2, 136Puerto Plata Part 1, 144Puerto Rico Part 1, 151

Roatán Part 3, 60

Saba Part 2, 29St-Barthélemy (St. Barts) Part 2, 21St. Croix Part 1, 171St. Eustatius (Statia) Part 2, 37St. John Part 1, 170St. Kitts Part 2, 45St. Lucia Part 2, 109St-Martin/Sint Maarten Part 2, 11St. Thomas Part 1, 169St. Vincent and the Grenadines Part 2, 131San Andrés Island Part 3, 66San Blas Islands, The Part 3, 62San Juan Part 1, 154San Salvador Part 1, 87Santo Domingo Part 1, 141Statia (See St. Eustatius) Part 2, 37Suriname Part 3, 73

Tobago Part 3, 3Tortola Part 1, 180Treasure Cay Part 1, 83Trinidad Part 3, 3Turks Islands Part 1, 95

Union Island Part 2, 136U.S. Virgin Islands Part 1, 167

Vieques Part 1, 158Virgin Gorda Part 1, 181

Walker’s Cay Part 1, 84

© The Travel Institute Alphabetical Destinations • xiii

© The Travel Institutexiv • Destination Specialist Caribbean

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The Caribbean Sea is by far North America’s number-one warm-weather international destination. Annually millions of visitors

enjoy its abundance of sun, sea, and sand.The Caribbean is one of the first destina-tions that a leisure travel counselorshould learn well, along with Las Vegas,Florida, Hawaii, and a few key U.S.cities. This text also covers the Atlanticislands often associated with theCaribbean, as well as the coastalresorts in Latin America that lie onthe perimeter of the Caribbean Sea.

Only the Mediterranean surpassesthe Caribbean in its variety ofdestinations and absolute numbersof international visitors (primarilyEuropeans) at warm-weatherresorts. But the Mediterranean isa long overnight trip from theUnited States, and its fall, winter, and springclimates appeal to a smaller number of Americans. While millionsof Europeans take their chances on Mediterranean beaches with 55-degree temperatures in January, millions more join North Americansun-worshippers for the steady 80-degree temperatures in the WestIndies. For sheer beauty and diversity, only the islands of the SouthPacific rival the Caribbean. But for most North Americans, the SouthPacific is halfway around the world.

The explosion of popularity in cruise vacations brings millions of addi-tional visitors to the region. This relatively tiny sprinkle of islands in theCaribbean Sea is by far the world’s foremost cruise destination.

The key to learning about the Caribbean is to keep in mind that there isno “one Caribbean.” Most islands have an abundance of beach, sun,resorts, and sports activities, but this does not mean that they are inter-changeable. Each island has a distinctive topography, history, and culture.

Island terrains vary from deserts to lush green mountains traversed bysparkling streams. Local culture reflects a blending of indigenous

© The Travel Institute Introduction • 1

Introduction

Courtesy of Aruba Tourism Authority

Aruba’s Palm Beach

peoples, foreign conquerors, and waves of slaves followed byimmigrants. Gambling is popular on some islands and illegal on others.Politically, some islands are part of a particular European country;others have been independent for many years. Ambiance ranges fromthe tranquillity of remote hideaways to the extravagance of self-contained resorts.

Destination Specialist: Caribbean (DS Caribbean) presents the variety ofcultures, languages, sports, cuisines, accommodations, and entertainmentthat give each island its distinct character. To be an effective travel coun-selor, you must know how to find the right destination for your clients. Ifyou understand what makes each island (and client) unique, you will beable to match your clients to their preferred vacation destination.

Geography of the Caribbean

Climate and SeasonsTemperatures vary only slightly throughout most of the Caribbean. In both summer and winter, temperatures average from 75 to 85

PopulationSix islands or countries in the Caribbean have a population exceeding 1 million.

Barbados, with 268,000 people on 166 square miles, has the highest populationdensity.

© The Travel Institute2 • Destination Specialist Caribbean

In terms of land area,the five largest islandsin the Caribbean regionare:1. Cuba2. Hispaniola

(containing theDominican Republicand Haiti)

3. Jamaica4. Puerto Rico5. Andros (the largest

island of theBahamas)

If one includes theBahamas as part ofthe Caribbean regionand lists countries(rather than islands) inorder of land area, theBahamas, with its manyislands, comes in third. 0 2 4 6 8 10 12

Country

Cuba

DominicanRepublic

Haiti

Puerto Rico

Jamaica

Trinidad andTobago

Populationin millions

Cuba

Hispaniola

Puerto Rico

Jamaica

Andros

Haiti DominicanRepublic

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degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature can go down to 65 in the evening and rise as high as 95 at midday, but temperatures of 100 areextremely rare.

The Bahamas and Bermuda are the exceptions to this pattern. Duringthe winter, temperatures in the northern islands of the Bahamas are justa bit warmer than those in southern Florida. In December and January,these islands have occasional cool spells, with temperatures in the 40sand 50s at night, and 60s and 70s during the day. The weather is usuallyfine for outdoor beach activities, but clients who will be disappointed ifthey do not get “beach weather” should be sent farther south.

In the rest of the Caribbean, the major differences in temperature andrain are related to altitude. Some Caribbean mountains reach 10,000feet in elevation, while many are 3,000 to 4,000 feet high. The higher


Caribbean TermsA few geographical terms have been used for centuries in reference to theCaribbean islands:

• West Indies: The islands of the Caribbean became known as the West Indiesafter Columbus realized that he had not arrived at islands on the east coast ofAsia or India (the East Indies) as he had planned. Coincidentally, he isbelieved to have claimed them “in God’s name” (in el nombre del Dios), where-as the term “Indies” was adopted later.

• The Antilles is another name for the West Indies (excluding the Bahamas).The term derives from an ancient word referring to the area that peoplebelieved lay west of Europe.

• The Greater Antilles includes the larger islands of Cuba, Jamaica, Hispaniola(Haiti and the Dominican Republic), and Puerto Rico.

• The Lesser Antilles is the curve of smaller islands from the Virgin Islands tothe South American coast.

• The Leeward Islands is the northern half of the Lesser Antilles.

• The Windward Islands is the southern half of the Lesser Antilles.

The name of the European country that finally conquered and settled an islandoften precedes the terms “West Indies” and “Antilles.” Thus the British WestIndies refers to islands that were once or are still affiliated with Great Britain.The same is true of the French West Indies and Spanish West Indies. Theislands owned by or affiliated with the Netherlands are alternately referred to asthe Netherlands Antilles, the Dutch Antilles, or the Dutch West Indies. In the“Caribbean Culture” section of this Introduction, islands are listed according totheir European affiliations.

the altitude, the cooler the climate. At these levels, clouds condenseand rain falls almost every day, creating lush rain forests. The beaches afew miles away are often sunny at the same time.

Bermuda, which lies much farther north in the Atlantic, is cool fromDecember to March, with highs in the upper 60s during the day andlows in the upper 40s at night.

The hurricane season officially lasts from June 1 to November 30. Insome years, storms have been very few, but in the late 1990s worldwideclimatic conditions spawned numerous storms. Experts expected thissituation to continue for the first five years of the 21st century, but thehurricane season in 2000 was exceptionally mild. More than 90 percentof the time, travelers will encounter little threat from such storms. Fallweather can be ideal, often with a daily thunderstorm lasting less thanan hour. However, travel counselors and visitors should check the newsdaily and keep abreast of brewing tropical depressions. In recent years,Caribbean governments have worked closely with the U.S. NationalHurricane Center and the Weather Channel and have developedcommunications to protect their own residents as well as tourists.Visitors should heed any warnings and follow all instructions given. Still,predicting the direction and speed of storms once they have formed isnot always an exact science.

Cruises are rarely canceled because of a hurricane, but the captain maydecide to change the ship’s route. As a result, the cruise might miss aport without another being substituted in its place.

Summers are generally more rainy and humid than winters, but no island’sclimate is so wet that it should be avoided. There is little comparisonbetween what is called the rainy season (summer and fall) in the Carib-bean and the monsoons and heavy rains that occur in Asia, Africa, orother places. In the Caribbean, rain comes in squalls that usually last a fewminutes to a couple of hours. Soon, the sun is shining again.

The Caribbean peak season runs approximately from mid-December tomid-April. During this period, the weather is almost perfect (a bit coolerthan the summer and with a bit less rain), while the northern UnitedStates, Canada, and Northern Europe are often cold and snowy. Thepeak season is the most heavily booked and also the most expensive.Reservations generally must be made about three months in advance.Trips during the Christmas holidays, February, and Easter vacationsshould be booked even further in advance.

The rest of the year can be considered low season, off-season, or “valueseason,” though variations occur. Some islands are almost as busy inJuly and August as they are during February and March. Generally,


The Tropic of Canceris the imaginary latitudeline that marks thenorthern limit of thetropics, or Torrid Zone.It is also the northernsolstice, that is, thenorthernmost point atwhich the sun evershines directlyoverhead (on June 21or June 22). The Tropicof Cancer runs throughthe Bahamas and runsjust north of Cuba.Consequently,according to the strictdefinition of the term“Caribbean,” everyCaribbean island is inthe tropics. Thisperfectly coincides withclimate patterns: whilethe Bahamas can get abit chilly in winter, mostCaribbean islandsseldom experienceanything more than acool breeze (except athigher elevations). Theentire Caribbeanregion, except Cuba,lies between 10 and20 degrees latitudenorth of the equator.

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however, throughout most of the Caribbean, summer prices for hotelsare discounted from 20 percent to 60 percent. The northern Bahamas,where this season is very popular, and Bermuda, where summer is highseason, are the exceptions.

A less-hurried way of life prevails off-season, and travelers have a betterchance to enjoy the food, culture, and local customs. Reservations atrestaurants and hotels are easier to get, and beaches and swimmingpools are less crowded. Resort boutiques often choose to have off-season sales. Travelers have shorter waits to book golf tee times, a ten-nis court, or a rental car. The summer season is a good value, and thesea, sand, and weather are essentially the same as during the peak sea-son. The spring “shoulder” season also offers reduced prices; in somecases, hotel rates are even lower than in the summer. Fall is the leastbusy season of all and may offer the lowest rates, but some restaurantsand hotels may be closed for renovations or just to take a month offbefore the upcoming busy season. This is also prime hurricane season.

Besides season and latitude, altitude is the only other factor that createssignificant variations in temperatures. The higher elevations on moun-tainous islands have lower temperatures. Nights can get cold, and evendays can be very cool. Those planning stays or hikes in the mountainsshould bring sweaters and other warm clothing.

Physical FeaturesBeaches. Some are seven miles long; some are in tiny, primeval-looking coves; others are lined with palms that reach into thesea; and still others sit at the base of waterfalls cascading frommountains. Some beaches are for snorkeling and diving; otherbeaches are for sunning and relaxing. Beaches and ocean orsea water are the key physical features of the Caribbean; theydraw millions of visitors in search of the perfect vacation.

Though beaches have a slightly different character at eachdestination, the differences can be subtle if you have notbeen to that particular destination. The more you knowabout them, the better. But luckily, beach-loving travelerswill be satisfied with most Caribbean beaches if they are satisfied withthe rest of their island experience. Just make sure you do not send abeach lover to one of the few destinations with scarcely any beaches,such as Saba or Dominica.

Beaches are primary, but they are not the only important physical fea-ture of the islands. Most islands in the Caribbean were formed in oneof two ways. Many of the low, flat islands in the north (for example,


St. Jean Beachon St-Barthélemy

Courtesy of Allyn Magrino

the Bahamas) are coral islands that grew over eons from the remains ofthese tiny sea organisms. Other islands may have beautiful beaches,some with unsurpassed mountain backdrops, but the beaches on coralislands are perhaps the most perfect.

The other major type of Caribbean island was formed by volcanic activity.The southern Windwards, in particular, are the tops of volcanoes thaterupted from the ocean floor and deposited ash and lava for millions ofyears until they broke the surface. Most of the volcanic islands are stillactively growing—witness the cataclysmic eruption on Martinique a cen-tury ago, and Montserrat’s volcano, which is still active today.

The mountains that dominate many islands do not match the altitudeof the continental ranges in North and South America. But measuredfrom their base at sea level, on what is a relatively small landmass, theyare as impressive as any. For example, Jamaica’s Blue Mountains areover 7,000 feet high; the Pitons of St. Lucia rise 3,000 to 4,000 feetdirectly from the sea. Measured from the ocean floor, some of theCaribbean’s mountains surpass Mt. Everest in altitude. Around thesemountains are lush valleys, waterfalls, and cliffs that provideopportunities for fascinating hikes.

Some islands are desert-like, receiving little rainfall and having barrenoutcrops of stone and small hills. The mountainous islands havevolcanic soil, while the coral islands are porous limestone, which easilydissolves to form caves, weird landscapes of rock and cliff, andblowholes where the sea jets up through fissures in the rock.

The only other feature that can really rival the beaches is the wateritself. Calm, warm waters (sometimes the temperature of bathwater) are protected by the curve of sand and reef, volcano and islands of theAntilles. The sea glistens in hues of turquoise, blue, aquamarine, green, and azure. Fish and coral share the waterscape that continues toattract visitors.

Location of Caribbean RegionsWhile reading this text, you should always refer to the map in yourQuick Reference Job Aid and the Hammond Caribbean map thataccompany this text. At first, the sheer number of islands might seemoverwhelming. The text presents the islands geographically. Start byfinding the islands you may already know on the Job Aid. Then try tofind the other islands that are listed in the Table of Contents. As youprogress in the text, you will become more and more familiar with thelocation of the different islands.


We have grouped the islands of the Caribbean and the Atlantic into fivedifferent regions. As you read about each island, keep in mind itsaccessibility. Sometimes farther islands are more accessible (take lesstime to get to) than islands that are much closer to your city, especiallywhen you consider factors such as flight connections, ferry rides, andother transfers.

The Atlantic RegionThe Atlantic region, which is technically outside the boundaries of theCaribbean Sea, includes Bermuda, the Islands of the Bahamas, and theTurks and Caicos Islands. This text covers these islands (along withresort locations along the Latin American coast) because they areamong the choices open to travel counselors and clients when consider-ing travel in the area.

Bermuda is somewhat separate from the other destinations in theAtlantic region. Note its location on a map. Bermuda lies in theAtlantic 600 miles due east of Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. For fivemonths of the year, its climate is cool—more similar to that of theMediterranean than that of the Caribbean.

The Bahamas begin just off the coast of Florida and extend quite farsouth, close to the western tip of Cuba. The Bahamas are many islands,collectively making up one country. The Turks and Caicos Islands area separate political entity, though geographically they continue thesweep of Bahamian islands.

The Northern CaribbeanThe popular island of Jamaica lies due south of Cuba andsoutheast of the Cayman Islands. The large island ofHispaniola is divided into two independent countries, Haitiand the Dominican Republic. Haiti has one of the mostvibrant and distinctive cultures of any nation or island in theregion, but it has long had the unfortunate distinction ofbeing the poorest nation in the Western Hemisphere; it hashad serious political and social problems as well. TheDominican Republic is one of the busiest tourist destinations in the region and is especially popular with Europeans.

Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands are considered part of theUnited States, each in its own way. Puerto Rico is a self-governingcommonwealth of the United States. Puerto Ricans are American


El Morro Fortress,Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Courtesy of Puerto Rico Tourism Company

citizens, so travelers do not have to pass through customs orimmigration when flying between Puerto Rico and the U.S. mainland.The U.S. Virgin Islands, consisting of three major islands (St. Thomas,St. John, and St. Croix), is a territory of the United States. All U.S.Virgin Islanders are American citizens, but travelers must pass throughcustoms to enter Puerto Rico or the rest of the United States, mainlyfor tax reasons. The islands have a special tax-free status for manyimported goods.

Some of the British Virgin Islands lie near the U.S. Virgin Islands,but they are a British colony. The residents of the British Virgin Islandscarefully control tourism development to allow their islands to retain alow profile.

The Eastern Caribbean: The Leeward IslandsThe Eastern Caribbean is a long sweep of islands that starts from justeast of the Virgin Islands and curves down nearly to the coast of SouthAmerica. These islands are further divided into the Leeward Islands andthe Windward Islands. A good learning tool is to break the EasternCaribbean into smaller collections of islands.

St-Martin/Sint Maarten is one of the most-visited and most-developed islands; it also has nearby “satellite” islands: Anguilla, St-Barthélemy (usually called St. Barts), St. Eustatius (usually calledStatia), and Saba. These satellite islands are separate from St-Martinpolitically, but they can be visited individually or on a day trip from St-Martin.

Just a few miles farther south are four islands that form two countries:Antigua and Barbuda are to the east, facing the Atlantic Ocean; St.Kitts and Nevis are to the west, facing the Caribbean Sea. Both con-sist of one island that is more developed for tourism and one that ismore tranquil and less developed. Montserrat is the last in the chain ofthe usually lower and flatter Leeward Islands, even though its smolder-ing volcano makes it geographically more similar to the mountainous,lush, and more breezy Windward Islands.

The Eastern Caribbean: The Windward IslandsThe next four islands—Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, and St.Lucia—alternate French-British-French-British, reflecting the strugglesthat took place between the European powers in the Caribbean. Evenon the British islands, residents speak a French patois or Creole dialectand have other French cultural influences.


Barbados is far out in the Atlantic Ocean, southeast of St. Luciaand slightly removed from the main archipelago. South of St.Lucia is the country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Eachof the Grenadines has its own tourism infrastructure andambiance, much like the Out Islands of the Bahamas or theBritish Virgin Islands.

The southernmost Grenadine island is the country of Grenadaitself, which is not part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines.These 15 islands complete the arc of the Eastern Caribbean,from north to south, although there are numerous smallerislands associated with these main ones.

The Southern CaribbeanJust north of the coast of Venezuela is a line of islands that we desig-nate the Southern Caribbean (however, some of the destinations in theEastern Caribbean are sometimes considered part of the SouthernCaribbean). The two islands of Trinidad and Tobago make up onecountry. Trinidad is quite populated and industrialized, while Tobago isan idyllic, tropical paradise. West of Trinidad is Margarita Island,which is part of the country of Venezuela and is treated in the last sec-tion. Farther west are the Dutch islands, usually called the ABC Islands:Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao.

The Western Caribbean and the Coast of Latin AmericaThe huge island of Cuba sits in the Caribbean like the elephant in theroom that nobody mentions. U.S. government policy allows only peoplewith special reasons or permission (for example, those on sanctionedtrade missions or people visiting relatives) to travel to Cuba. At this time,most travel counselors do not sell trips to Cuba; but in the near futureCuba will probably “open up” and become an important destination forAmericans (as it already is for Canadians). This text presents a brief introduction to the island for informational purposes.

To the west is Mexico, with its world-class resort of Cancún and thepopular but quieter island of Cozumel. Cancún and Cozumel are oftengrouped with Jamaica and the Cayman Islands on cruise itineraries des-ignated “Western Caribbean.” The coast of Latin America is covered inthe last part of this section. Belize, the Bay Islands of Honduras, theSan Blas Islands of Panama, Cartagena and San Andrés inColombia, and Caracas (and the port of La Guaira) and MargaritaIsland in Venezuela are important, either as ports of call for Caribbeancruises, or as possible choices for clients considering a Caribbean trip.


An artisan in the Grenadines

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Guyana and Suriname, on the northeast coast of South America, havestrong cultural and economic ties to the Caribbean though they are onthe Atlantic Ocean. For information on French Guiana (an overseasdepartment of France), further removed geographically from theCaribbean, consult the French Government Tourist Office. Nicaraguaand Costa Rica also have islands in the Caribbean or beach towns ontheir shores. One or two cruise ships have begun calling at ports inCosta Rica, but these destinations are not included in this text.

Accessibility: Getting to the CaribbeanKnowing the locations and geography of Caribbean destinations isimportant, but it is only the first step in recommending where a clientshould go. Next you should learn about an island’s accessibility:

1. How does one get to the destination?

2. How long is the travel time, including all connections and transfers?

3. How convenient or inconvenient is the trip?

Sometimes accessibility to the Caribbean depends on one’s location inthe United States. Some cities may have charters operating to theSouthern Caribbean, while others do not. Be sure to learn which flightsoperate to various islands from your city or gateway airport. You mustalso consider the accessibility of the hotel from the island’s airport.Although it is the exception, sometimes Caribbean resorts are located agood distance from the airport along bumpy roads. If this is the case,you should discuss the situation with your clients before booking theresort. The more information and options you can provide to clients,the better. Merely knowing what to expect will relieve most travelers’anxieties and annoyances.

Difficulty of access does not rule out a destination—some travelerschoose an out-of-the-way location on purpose. In fact, the remotenessof a resort or a hotel may be one of its main appeals.

Consider a destination’s accessibility in relation to the entire itinerary,and make suggestions accordingly. If your clients live two hours fromthe gateway airport, perhaps they would like to leave the eveningbefore their flight and spend the night at a hotel near the airport. Thevacation may begin in a more relaxed manner this way. Similarly, travelers who live on the West Coast who are taking a cruise in theCaribbean may prefer to arrive at their embarkation city the day beforerather than board the ship after an all-day or all-night flight. This alsoprevents missing the cruise departure if a flight were delyaed.



Top Caribbean Beaches at a Glance

There can be no single, definitive list of top Caribbean beaches. We could list themost popular, the ones where the most fabulous resorts have been built, or themost aesthetically pleasing. But visitors have many different reasons for preferringa particular beach.

However, guidebooks and travel magazines often make lists of their favorites. With the understanding that choosing the best beaches is very personal, here isour compilation, with an emphasis on some of the grandest and most-visitedbeaches.

Beach Location Description

Anse du Gouverneur St-Barthélemy A secluded, beautiful sandy beach with good snorkeling and views of nearby islands

Cable Beach New Providence Island A three-mile-long, wide strand of beach housing (Nassau), Bahamas Nassau’s top resorts

Grand Anse Grenada Two miles of sugar-white sand within walking distance of the island’s top hotels and with calypso singers walking its shores

Half Moon Bay Antigua Called “the ultimate beach” and chosen by the Travel Channel in the year 2000 as the top beach in the world (many other lists do not mention it)

Le Diamant Martinique A six-and-a-half-mile stretch of white sand, partially undeveloped, with a view of HMS Diamond Rock

Luquillo Beach Puerto Rico A crescent-shaped, white-sand beach with coconutpalms and clear, calm water protected by a coral reef

Magens Bay St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands A half-mile loop of white sand with calm water between two peninsulas

Negril Beach Jamaica A seven-mile stretch of sand lined with lush resorts and featuring some “clothing-optional” areas

Palm Beach Aruba A long stretch of white sand with clear blue water and many resort hotels

Playa Grande Dominican Republic An uncrowded paradise of powdery white sand with calm water

Seven Mile Beach Grand Cayman Five and a half miles of beach, with resorts on one side and aquamarine water on the other

Shoal Bay Anguilla An uncrowded, silvery-sand beach, with schools of iridescent fish darting about in the offshore coral

Trunk Bay St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands An often photographed beach with a snorkeling trail for beginners, picnic tables, and a snack bar

Scheduled Air ServiceMany Caribbean destinations have regularly scheduled direct air servicefrom a number of gateway cities in North America. Smaller islandswithout major service tie into this network through their own regionalcarriers. Currently, American Airlines and American Eagle provide service to approximately 25 of the 40 nations in the region.

San Juan is American Airline’s big hub for flights to almost everyCaribbean island south and east of Puerto Rico. Other carriers also useSan Juan, but mini-hubs in St-Martin, Antigua, St. Thomas, Barbados,and Trinidad are sometimes more convenient. Five major carriers in theCaribbean are Liat, ALM, BWIA, Air Jamaica, and EC Express, butalmost every country has its own carrier as well.

Airfares vary according to season, though variations are not as drastic asfor fares to Europe. The highest fares occur during the Caribbean’speak season—roughly mid-December to mid-April. Low season falls inthe summer—June, July, and August—when fares are less expensive.However, this is also when Caribbean nationals return home to visitfriends and relatives, so bookings should be made early. Shoulder season is generally defined as the spring and fall seasons, and you canfind somewhat lower fares at this time also. Because Bermuda is farthernorth in the Atlantic, it is much cooler in the winter. Therefore its peakseason is roughly April to October.

The range of individual fares is based on first-class and economy seating,with many promotional fare options. These promotional fares oftencarry stringent requirements such as advance purchase, minimum stay,and cancellation penalties (including a nonrefundable ticket). Many trav-elers to the Caribbean book packages that include scheduled air; in suchcases, they are bound by the regulations and refund policies of the touroperator, which may be more stringent than those of individual airlines.

Most vacationers stay on only one island (taking day trips to its satelliteislands) for the duration of their vacation; for those who wish to island-hop, many of the airlines in the Caribbean offer air passes that includethree or more stopovers.

Air ChartersCharter flights to the Caribbean generally operate from larger U.S.cities. They operate under rules different from those governing scheduled air flights. Charters may use airlines that also have scheduledflights or airlines that offer only charters but are little known to thegeneral public. Charter airlines must follow the same safety rules, pre-scribed by the Federal Aviation Administration, as scheduled carriers.


Flying to the Caribbean by charter offers two basic advantages to the traveler:

1. Substantial savings over full coach or economy airfares

2. Nonstop or direct accessibility to destinations that can only bereached by direct (with stops but without changing planes) flights orconnections on scheduled airlines

Charters offer an additional advantage to the travel counselor: they areusually sold in conjunction with a complete land package, including


Jet LagDepending on the point of departure, actual flying time between North Americaand the various islands ranges from one hour to five or more hours (considerablymore from the West Coast). Travelers coming from the Central (CST) or EasternStandard (EST) Time zones will experience little imbalance of their body clock,because most of the Caribbean is on Eastern Standard Time or AtlanticStandard Time (AST) (one hour later than Eastern Standard Time). However, thefatigue factor of rising very early, driving to the airport, checking in about an hourand a half before flight time, coupled with the flight itself and transportation fromthe airport to the hotel, should be taken into account when planning a client’s schedule. These factors, along with possible time changes (depending on pointof departure) and flight delays, can fatigue travelers. A prepared client is muchmore likely to be a happy client.

Those flying from the West Coast to the Caribbean will usually incur a timechange, entailing some jet lag in addition to the usual fatigue of long hours oftravel. Before departure, travelers can begin to minimize any effects by adjustingtheir eating and sleeping schedules to Eastern Standard or Atlantic StandardTime and by arriving at the airport in plenty of time.

Sitting on a plane for five hours can be quite tiring as well. The combination ofhigh ozone content, low humidity, and constant pressurization of the cabin has adraining effect. Passengers will feel worse if they consume alcohol, carbonatedbeverages, or excessive amounts of caffeine. Suggest that they drink plenty ofwater or juice instead. If passengers are flying during hours when they wouldnormally be sleeping, they should try to sleep on the plane. Sleeping pills, travel-sickness medicines, and other medications may work for the moment but oftenaggravate jet lag over the following days.

A travel counselor can help travelers overcome jet lag by ensuring that they arenot immediately rushed into hectic schedules. Passengers may be too excited onarrival to go to sleep, but a short nap helps diminish fatigue. On the first day at aresort or on a cruise ship, vacationers should do little except relax and soak up abit of sun. On subsequent days, they can begin sightseeing, sport activities, andnighttime entertainment.

accommodations, tax and service charges, as well as meals, sightseeingtours, or car rentals. The tour operator selling the charter usually has aliaison or representative at the destination to help clients. An ongoingrelationship between the travel counselor and the tour company oftenresults in better service and higher commissions. The charter company,which depends on travel agencies to sell the bulk of its business, willgenerally offer a commission that is not subject to sudden changes bythe individual air carriers.

Some clients feel that charters have inherent disadvantages that offsetthe advantages:

1. Full payment must be made as far as 45 days or more in advance.(However, if the flight is not full, bookings will be taken up to thelast minute with immediate payment. The travel agency may have topay for last-minute bookings with a cashier’s check, unless theagency is well known to the tour operator.)

2. Once arrangements are made, travelers cannot easily change theiritinerary or departure dates without substantial financial penalty.Although insurance can be purchased to cover sudden illness or adeath in the family, it is an additional cost and does not usually coverother personal or business reasons for “changing one’s mind.”

3. Departures and returns may be at less-convenient times. Check-intimes are usually longer.

4. Charters do not provide flexibility in scheduling. Clients are obligedto accept the number of days offered for the trip (typically three,four, or seven). Those who want to leave on a particular day and tai-lor their itinerary to their personal schedules are usually out of luck.

Some other drawbacks of charters are that flights are generally full,delays are longer (on average), and travelers have few if any options tochange the itinerary once the trip has commenced.

Some of these “drawbacks” may actually be advantages for the travelcounselor. Once clients have paid, their commitment to the trip can becounted as definite. Many of the details can be wrapped up with oneor two phone calls. However, many clients are more than willing topay for flights and schedules without any of these restrictions. One ofthe first things you should do is to qualify your clients to see if theyprefer an FIT or Foreign Independent Tour (which might be moreprofitable for the agency) rather than a package trip. Travel counselorswho immediately pick up a package or charter brochure before qualify-ing a traveler’s needs risk losing a potentially profitable sale.


Private Air ChartersIn certain situations, travel counselors should consider the use ofindividual air charters. For example, a private air charter might be idealfor a family or two couples who are traveling to a smaller island andwhose connecting times on scheduled air would be inconvenientand time-consuming.

Floridians or travelers who can reach southeast Florida on asteeply discounted airfare may even find that the total airfareexpenditure (including chartering their own flight to theislands) is less than the cost of regularly scheduled air. Forother travelers, a private charter is worth the extra expense:they get 10 to 30 percent more vacation time at the destina-tion, personal service, and the excitement of the flight itself.Prime candidates are those for whom this is a special trip orwho are affluent enough to value this service.

Ferry or Ship TransportationNew travel counselors should make a clear distinction between cruisesand ship transportation. It seems that almost every speck of land in theCaribbean is visited by at least one cruise ship. But almost no ships areused solely for transportation from the United States to the Caribbean.The only exceptions are the huge ferries that sometimes operatebetween southeast Florida and Grand Bahama Island. A ferry also runsbetween Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands.

However, many islands are serviced by ferries between them andsmaller islands that are located near them. For example, ferries go fromNassau to almost all of the Bahamian Out Islands; most visitors to St.John arrive by the ferry from St. Thomas; and the Grenadines areserved by inter-island ferries. Often visitors can also opt to fly to theseislands, but a few islands have no airport and the ferry (or a charteredseaplane) is the only means of transport.

Local TransportationPublic TransportationOn some islands, public transportation is just as convenient forvacationers as it is for local residents. More often than not, however,traveling on public buses, vans, or jitneys (ones that serve dedicatedroutes) is quite time-consuming. Although vacationers who use publictransportation will find themselves immersed in the local culture, mostvisitors prefer to use taxis, car rentals, or tours for transportation andtravel around the islands.


Awaiting takeoff on St. Maarten

Courtesy of St. Maarten Tourist Office

TaxisThe vast majority of islands have some sort of fixed schedule of taxifares from one point to another. These are set either by the govern-ment or by local taxi operators. They are sometimes posted in hotels orat taxi stands, but usually it is up to the rider to find out the fare fromthe driver before the trip starts. Meters are seldom used, and evenwhen they are, add-ons (surcharges for going to and from the airportor the cruise port, for extra people or bags, or for nighttime travel)make the final fare hard to determine anyway.

If possible, clients should first ask the hotel or tourist office about taxifares. They should then always reconfirm or agree on the fare with thedriver before getting into the vehicle. Before hiring a taxi, prudentpassengers may also wish to check the condition of the vehicle and thedriver’s command of English and his knowledge of the island’s sightsand history. The latter is particularly important when hiring a taxi foran island tour.

Visitors who depend on taxis should make arrangements ahead of time if they plan to stay out late. Taxis can be hard to come by orprices can escalate. Even so, clients need to be flexible, in keeping with island ambiance.

Car RentalsCar rental companies run the gamut from the major ones familiar tomost Americans to local people meeting the boat with their privatecars. This course does not rate companies or recommend them for spe-cific islands. Some strictly local companies may be better than the localaffiliates of the major companies. If you want some idea of reliability,check with the tourist office or find out which rental companies touroperators tend to book on their fly/drive packages.

Whether clients should rent a car depends on the answers to a fewquestions: How isolated is the resort? Do the clients want to see anumber of sights outside the resort? How large is the island? How welldo the clients handle new driving situations? What is their budget?

When you advise clients on driving itineraries, be as conservative aspossible. The larger islands can be as big as a U.S. state, while thesmaller ones may be the size of a county. Nonetheless, even on smallislands there may be a lot to see. Almost all roads on Caribbean islandsare two lanes, so you should budget two to three times as much drivingtime as for comparable distances on U.S. highways. If roads are poor,increase the driving time estimate even more: many islands aremountainous, or at least hilly; animals and people often get in the way;


and drivers will be in new terrain, possibly driving on the left side of the road.

Driving can be a good way to find romantic beaches in hidden coves orvisit authentic Creole restaurants in small villages where few touristsventure. However, drivers can also find themselves negotiating narrow,mountainous roads under a blazing sun with a broken or no air-conditioner; getting lost on a bumpy path in the middle of a sugarcanefield; and arriving back at their resort in a state of exhaustion. Be sureyou know how adventuresome your clients are before you suggest arental car for them.

A one- or two-day rental to see the island sights might be the idealsolution for many clients. Still, they might do just as well taking a taxitour and leaving the driving to someone else. However, you must planahead during the winter season; companies on some islands may have athree-day minimum for rentals, and cars may sell out.

AccommodationsSurveys have found that for 75 percent of travelers the choice ofaccommodation can make or break a trip. This text is devoted tohelping you choose the right destination for your clients, but choosingthe right accommodation at that destination can be just as important.It is not within the scope of this text to cover every choice ofaccommodation. Even if it were, changes occur frequently. Hotelsclose, reopen, undergo renovation, change ownership, and areoccasionally damaged by storms.

However, we do describe what type of accommodations predominateon each island. We sometimes mention well-known hotels, chains, all-inclusive resorts, or historic inns to give a flavor of what is available,although that does not necessarily mean that they are more suitable fora specific client than those that are not mentioned. Some accommoda-tions are listed because they stand out for a special reason; others arelisted because they are representative of a group of similar hotels. Thebrief list of accommodations will give you a starting point to help yougain familiarity with Caribbean lodgings.

You should consult sources such as the Official Hotel Guide(www.ohgonline.com), the Caribbean Hotel Association Gold Book(www.caribbeantravel.com), the AAA Caribbean Travelbook(www.aaa.com/news12/Diamonds/travelbook2.html), tourist officereferences, updates in special sections of the trade press, your office’spreferred trade manuals, and the hotel itself. For further hotel guid-ance, you should read consumer guidebooks such as the Caribbean


Handbook (www.footprintbooks.com), Frommer (www.frommers.com),Fodor (www.fodors.com), and Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com),and bookmark your favorite Web sites for hotels and reference sourceson the Internet. When you book, check on the current condition of thehotel, especially during low season (when refurbishment or construc-tion often takes place) or after hurricanes.

On many islands, the type of accommodation available will provide fur-ther insight into the island’s ambiance and the type of traveler who willbe happiest there. For example, clients who want a low-key, relaxedvacation might prefer to stay on an island where guesthouses and bedand breakfasts (B&Bs) are the predominant lodging choice. A generaloutline of the major types of hotels follows.

Large resorts try to provide all the activities, restaurants, shopping,and services that visitors may need right on their premises. Many clientsenjoy the pleasure and convenience of having everything readily avail-able. On some islands, medium and smaller resorts may have an agree-ment with other hotels to honor one another’s meal vouchers (a dine-around plan) or to feature entertainment on different nights so that vis-itors can sample the bars, clubs, and shows at a variety of hotels. Atsome destinations, the hotels are the main venues for entertainment.


U.S. Visitors to the Caribbean

In the Caribbean region, the Dominican Republic has the most hotel rooms,followed closely by the Bahamas, Jamaica, and Puerto Rico. But nearly half ofthe overnight visitors to the Dominican Republic are Europeans, putting theother three islands far ahead in the competition for Americans. The popularityof Caribbean destinations among U.S. vacationers (excluding those on cruiseships) breaks down into three tiers (the destinations are listed in alphabeticalorder):

Tier One: The Bahamas, Jamaica, and Puerto Rico (each approaching or justsurpassing 1 million overnight U.S. visitors annually)

Tier Two: Aruba, Bermuda, Cayman Islands, Dominican Republic, St-Martin,U.S. Virgin Islands (a quarter- to a half-million overnight U.S. visitors annually)

Tier Three: All other destinations, ranging from islands that barely have 2,000visitors annually to Trinidad and Tobago and Barbados at well over 100,000 visitors.

(The above figures do not include Cuba or Cancún/Cozumel.)

Statistics are based on Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) figures for 1998 as published inthe Travel Industry World Yearbook.

Small enclave resorts can exist in all categories from budget to deluxe,but certain islands are known for their smaller, more secluded luxuryresorts that are among the best in the world. They do not try to be allthings to all people and often are sedate and aimed at travelers whowant to escape the bustle of everyday life. Such resorts are ready toarrange for any type of activity or to suggest where more varied entertainment can be found.

All-inclusives have become one of the most successful hotel types in theCaribbean. Club Med, the innovator of this concept, has a number ofresorts in the area. It originated in France and has a special Continentalambiance. Jamaica has no Club Meds but nonetheless is the king of theall-inclusives. Most of Jamaica’s larger all-inclusives are members of theSuperClubs or Sandals groups. Today many of the all-inclusives aregeared toward singles, couples, or families. Some are restricted solely tothese clients. Others are spas or have cutting-edge health club facilities,or specialize in certain sports such as scuba-diving and tennis. SeeSpecialty Niches on page 44 for more information on spas.

Condominiums, villas, suites, apartments, and efficiencies are gen-erally larger than hotel rooms. Such accommodations provide cookingfacilities and refrigerators. They are found on most islands, and theirnumbers are growing. Some are offered on major-supplier packages,but others must be sought out through condominium referral servicesor through the tourist boards.

City hotels are the exception in the Caribbean. San Juan, Puerto Rico,is the only large city that has a major beach resort area right in the city,similar to cities such as Honolulu, Hawaii, or Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.Other large cities, such as Kingston, Jamaica, Santo Domingo,Dominican Republic, and Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, have major hotelswith many amenities, but guests must take a long taxi or bus ride toreach the beaches. Otherwise, city hotels on most islands tend to bemoderate to budget choices in the middle of the noise of traffic andpeople. However, in smaller cities, these hotels may be a few steps or ashort bike ride away from the beach.

Guesthouses and inns can be found throughout the Caribbean. Theyappeal especially to people who enjoy staying at bed and breakfasts(B&Bs) and other types of cozy lodgings. Many islands boast elegantplantation houses. In a few cases, on smaller satellite islands, a guest-house may be the only accommodation available.

Camping is discouraged or forbidden on most Caribbean islands.Notable exceptions are St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands and theFrench islands, particularly Martinique and Guadeloupe. Most of St.


John is a national park; the campgrounds are near an idyllic beach.There are other locales for those who search for them.

Practical InformationImmigration and CustomsWhen traveling abroad, all travelers are required to have some form ofidentification that proves their citizenship. For Americans traveling tothe Caribbean, proof of citizenship is usually all that is required. Theexceptions are the countries of Latin America and their island posses-sions and the island of Cuba.

There are three major forms of citizenship documents:

• A birth certificate. Travelers must have the original or an official,certified copy with an embossed government seal. If they only have aphotocopy, they will be sent home from the airport, most likelywithout a refund for their trip.

• Naturalization papers, showing that the person is a naturalizedAmerican citizen.

• A passport. This is the best form of identification; it proves citizenship and constitutes permission by one’s home country totravel abroad.

If they are carrying a birth certificate or naturalization papers, travelersshould also have a picture form of identification (in any case, they willneed it to board any plane or cruise ship). Technically, a voter’s regis-tration card along with a separate picture ID is also proof of citizen-ship, but many islands may not recognize them as such. Clients shouldcarry one of the three major forms of citizenship documents.

Despite the foregoing, the travel counselor must keep up with currentevents and regulations in the region. Situations could change. Forexample, in the 1980s France instituted more stringent regulations inorder to monitor possible terrorism in France. For a number of years,travelers to the French islands in the Caribbean were required to haveboth a passport and a visa.

A few islands and the country of Mexico require a tourist card, which isissued to travelers at the airport or upon arrival. Travelers must keep thetourist card with them during the trip, as they will be asked to surrenderit upon departure. Failure to do so usually results in delay or problems,or worse; they might not be allowed to leave the country at that time.


The foregoing applies to American citizens. U.S. residents who are notAmerican citizens should carry their residency card (“green card”) andwhatever documentation is required relative to their country of citizen-ship. In 99 percent of the cases, the U.S. residency card and separatepicture ID are sufficient. Nevertheless, the travel counselor shouldeither double-check that such clients have the correct documentationor have them sign a waiver that they, and not the travel counselor, areresponsible for having the correct documentation.

Americans may bring home imports up to the following amounts with-out paying tax or duty on them:

• $1,200 per person from the U.S. Virgin Islands

• $600 per person from most Caribbean destinations

• $400 per person from the French islands of Guadeloupe andMartinique

Thus, a family of four is permitted $4,800 of exemptions when return-ing from the U.S. Virgin Islands or $2,400 from most other locations.Tax on anything over the limit is 5 percent from the U.S. VirginIslands and 10 percent from other islands.

Puerto Rico, which is an American commonwealth, is considered thesame as a U.S. state as regards customs and duties. People travelingbetween Puerto Rico and the United States do not go through cus-toms at all. Upon return to the United States, they may import anunlimited amount of goods from the island. All travelers enteringPuerto Rico from other islands will be subject to customs, just as theywould upon entering the United States.

On the flight or cruise back to the United States, passengers complete acustoms declaration that is examined and collected by customs onarrival. All items acquired abroad over the applicable limit must be item-ized. Receipts for purchases should be kept with the declaration form.

In addition to the duty-free exemption, passengers of any age may eachbring in up to 100 cigars and 200 cigarettes duty-free. Passengers 21years of age or older may also bring in up to one liter of alcohol (onegallon from the U.S. Virgin Islands). Some states have laws that pro-hibit the importation of alcohol or tobacco products regardless of fed-eral regulations. State regulations and enforcement vary widely.

The process of going through customs upon entering the United Stateshas been substantially streamlined in recent years. But travelers whomight be tempted to cheat should realize that everyone entering the


United States goes through customs, and everyone is liable to beingchecked. By means of inside tips, profiling, undercover customs officersin the crowd, observation of nervous behavior, and simple randomselection, customs officers can choose to check any arriving passenger.

Many islands have free ports or impose low rates of duty on importedgoods, which are sold in designated free-port and customs-free areas,duty-free shops at airports, and special markets. However, the fact thatthe tax is minimal or zero on goods coming into the island bears norelation to the amount the traveler is allowed to bring into the UnitedStates duty-free. Some bargain hunters consider such areas a shoppers’mecca, where they can purchase cameras, electronic equipment,watches, porcelain, china, crystal, and perfume for up to 60 percent lessthan at home. Other travelers have reported finding comparable pricesat discount stores in the United States. Before leaving on their trip,visitors should check U.S. prices on items of interest in order to knowwhether the item is a bargain at the duty-free price.

Health and SafetyFew dire health hazards threaten visitors to the Caribbean. If they use alittle common sense, travelers are nearly as safe as they would be travel-ing in the United States, especially if they are staying at major hotels.Those roughing it in the poorer sections of islands should take the

same precautions they would in Third-World countries any-where, such as watching that foods are properly cooked andusing insect repellent when necessary. Those venturing intothe interior of Haiti, the Dominican Republic, Trinidad, theYucatán, Belize, or Venezuela can encounter tropical diseasesand therefore should take precautions. For further healthinformation and current conditions, check the U.S. Centersfor Disease Control and Prevention Web site atwww.cdc.gov and the State Department consular sheetsWeb site at www.travel.state.gov.

Many of the islands are short on water and must conserveit, but the water is generally very pure. Therefore, travel-ers need not be concerned about eating salads or having

drinks with ice cubes. They can enjoy foods of all kinds with muchthe same freedom as at home, if they use normal precautions.Caribbean cuisine can be the highlight of a trip.

Perhaps the worst problem many encounter is sunburn or sunstroke.This often happens to travelers who have not had previous experiencevisiting a tropical climate. They want to make the most of their week inthe sun and may even think they are taking proper precautions;


Food treats on AnguillaCourtesy of C

arol Lee

however, they do not realize the power of the tropical sun, whichshines at a more direct angle. Here the travel counselor can be helpfulin pointing out the adverse effects of sun-poisoning (a good term touse with the uninitiated). For example, during a daylong “boozecruise,” clients should keep in the shade much of the time, useprotective clothing and a high-PF sunscreen, and drink in moderation.Too much sun and alcohol can lead to fever or chills, headaches,nausea, or dizziness, in addition to the pain of the sunburn.

Even those who are not normally bothered by strong sun should usesunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, and a coverup for the beach, especiallybetween 11 A.M. and 2 P.M. Exposure to the sun should be limited onthe first day and be gradual thereafter. Long-sleeved shirts and longpants are also essential for a day on a boat where reflections from thewater increase the likelihood of sunburn. Travelers should drink plentyof nonalcoholic and noncaffeinated liquids. When applying sunscreen,they should not forget sensitive areas such as the face, hands, and feet.If they do get a sunburn, they should stay out of the sun until the condition subsides.

As with any travel abroad, the number-one risk travelers face is fromvehicular accidents. Those renting cars should know how to drivedefensively. Those on bicycles, motorbikes, or scooters should be particularly wary.

However, for first-time visitors to the Caribbean, personal safety isoften more of a concern. Caribbean family, social, and moral codes arestrong, and violent crime is rare. But crime has been rising on someislands where the social structure has begun to weaken as the peopleconfront sudden changes brought on by many factors, including burgeoning tourism.

On some islands where there is a great disparity in income betweenvacationers and residents, petty thievery can be a problem. It is best notto invite temptation. Visitors should keep valuables in the hotel orcruise ship safe and should always lock their room doors. They shouldavoid leaving valuables, such as cameras, purses, or money, lying unat-tended on the beach while swimming. You might want to advise yourclients to wear a moneybelt, and if they carry travelers’ checks to keepthe check numbers in a separate place.

In general, it is a good idea to stay alert and be aware of one’s immedi-ate surroundings when traveling in any unfamiliar country. This is espe-cially true of the larger cities on the larger islands. Exercising cautionminimizes the possibility of becoming a victim of crime. Every societyhas its criminals, and it is the individual’s responsibility to stay aware ofpotential danger.


You can obtain further information regarding safety and other issuesfrom the U.S. State Department’s Web site at www.travel.state.gov. Youshould carefully read the State Department report about any island towhich you regularly send clients. The State Department issues threetypes of travel information declarations:

1. Travel warnings recommend that Americans avoid travel to certaincountries and explain why.

2. Public service announcements describe short-term terrorist threatsor specific conditions that create risk for American travelers. Theseare generally related to specific countries but can include worldwideor regional conditions or threats.

3. Consular information sheets present facts and situations aboutevery country in the world. Safety and security issues are detailedwhen appropriate, and travelers can make up their own minds aboutwhat precautions to take or if they wish to travel.

Money MattersThe U.S. dollar is the legal currency of Puerto Rico, the U.S. VirginIslands, the British Virgin Islands, and the Turks and Caicos Islands.On other islands, hotel bills are often presented in U.S. dollars, eventhough the island’s legal currency may be different.

French islands use Euros, and Dutch islands use the Netherlandsguilder, generally referred to as the florin. These islands began usingthe Euro in the year 2002. Eight islands in the Eastern Caribbean usethe Eastern Caribbean dollar (ECD). All other islands and countrieshave their own currencies, but the U.S. dollar is recognized and accept-ed in most places.

Those visiting the islands off cruise ships will seldom need to converttheir money into the local currency, though they can usually do soaboard ship. However, they should be aware of exchange rates andprices for transportation and goods if they plan to tour on their own.The French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe are exceptions,where most transactions are conducted in Euros and where local vendors may not always know the current exchange rate. On all islands, buses, telephones, vending machines, and small tips requirelocal currency.

Clients staying on one island for any length of time should becomefamiliar with the local currency. They may want to purchase smallamounts of foreign currency before arrival, even though exchange rates


at home are not as good as those abroad. By doing so, travelers will beable to avoid long lines at airport currency exchange booths or theinconvenience of banks’ being closed upon arrival.

Once visitors are on the island, they will find the best exchange rates atbanks and government-approved exchange houses. Hotels and somerestaurants and vendors will exchange currency, but generally at lowerrates. Visitors to the Caribbean should never conduct private currencytransactions with hustlers in the street. There are some countries in theworld where this is a common medium of exchange. But this is rarely truein the Caribbean, where the doubtful benefit of a tiny percentage gain inan exchange rate on the street is greatly outweighed by the possibility ofcounterfeit currency or a “quick switch” when the money is exchanged.

The “Fast Facts” section of each island does not include currencyexchange rates because most rates fluctuate, in some cases substantially.A number of Web sites provide conversion charts for foreign currencies(such as www.xe.net/ucc). Many other leading travel sites also havecurrency converters.

Credit cards are widely accepted in the Caribbean, and clients shouldbe encouraged to use them. Exchange rates are generally better thanthose offered at local banks after service charges and/or fees are added.ATM machines are available in most places. Before they travel, clientsshould make sure their ATM cards are tied into an international net-work. Bringing travelers’ checks (rather than carrying cash) is recom-mended. Travelers’ checks either can be exchanged for local currencyor can be used directly in the many places that accept U.S. dollars.

Most islands impose international air departure taxes of up to $30;most commonly these taxes are $10 or $20. A schedule of the latestdeparture taxes may be found in the annual edition of the CaribbeanTourism Organization’s (CTO) Caribbean Vacation Planner. Air depar-tures to local islands may also incur a tax of a few dollars (likewise forboat departures). Martinique and Guadeloupe have no departure taxesas of the year 2000.

InsuranceBefore clients purchase any type of travel insurance, they should reviewthe insurance coverage they already have to make sure they are notbuying duplicate coverage. (Consult the insurance information in TheTravel Institute’s Selling Travel Insurance elective module of theCertified Travel Agent program for further information and Web sitesfor the major companies.) Travelers need to consider several types ofinsurance:


Tipping is a generalpractice in theCaribbean, and visitorsshould have dollars orsome local currency totip for services. Hotelsand restaurants add aservice charge to thebill, but it is customaryto tip waiters, chamber-maids, porters, elevatoroperators, bellhops, andothers who offer smallpersonal services.

Though mostrestaurants will add aservice charge (usually15 percent), it iscustomary to round upthe bill or increase thetip to 20 percent ifservice was good. Otherservice people whoshould be tipped aretaxi drivers, guides attourist sights, hairstylists, and automechanics.

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• Medical insurance. Many hospitals outside the United States do nothonor American health insurance plans. This means that even if theclient’s U.S. plan will reimburse for certain medical expenses, theclient must pay the hospital or doctor overseas in full. Patientsshould keep complete and accurate records and have their bill trans-lated so that their health plan can reimburse them. If credit cards arenot accepted, patients will have to pay with travelers’ checks or cash.Medicare does include coverage outside the United States. Travelcounselors should be sure to offer medical insurance to clients whodo not have adequate coverage and have them sign a waiver if theydecline to purchase it.

• Baggage insurance. Baggage and personal possession insuranceprotects clients against loss or damage while traveling. It picks upwhere the carrier’s responsibility ends and covers losses in excess ofthe airline’s liability.

• Trip cancellation insurance. Trip cancellation or trip interruptioninsurance is particularly important on trips to the Caribbean becausemany clients buy packages that have more severe restrictions thanindividual trip components. Final payment often must be made 30 to60 days before departure, and penalties increase as departure dayapproaches. Cruise ships are generally accommodating in goingbeyond what their contracts stipulate for refunding passengers whobecome ill or are injured before the trip, but in many cases they maynot be able to help. Clients may lose up to 100 percent of the costof a cruise or package trip in case of a sudden emergency to them-selves or a member of their family. Always offer cancellation andinterruption insurance, and have clients sign a waiver if they decline.

• Optional comprehensive insurance. The top travel insurancecompanies offer an optional plan at a reasonable cost that has verycomprehensive coverage, e.g. Travel Guard’s Cruise, Tour, andTravel Policy.

PackingThe first bit of advice for packing is to travel light. Baggage carts arescarce at airports in the Caribbean, especially smaller ones, and luggagerestrictions are tight. Clients on package tours to major islands withnonstop flights may get away with taking the maximum amount ofluggage if transfers are included. If travelers connecting to small carrierstake too much luggage, it will often be delivered late. Small planes havestrict weight requirements, and excess luggage may be shipped onsubsequent flights.

Dress is generally casual and comfortable in the Caribbean. Light-


weight cotton and loose-fitting clothing are best in the heat andhumidity. A coverup for the beach is important, as is a hat in the tropical sun. Sun hats are a fun purchase after arrival. Air-conditioningin some restaurants is quite cool, so patrons might be more comfort-able with a light jacket or wrap. Men may want a jacket for more for-mal dining. Evening wear is generally casual, but some islands are a bitmore chic than others.

Sightseeing at higher elevations may require long pants and a long-sleeved shirt. These will also provide protection from the sun duringthe first days of a trip. It is a good idea to bring film and sunscreenfrom home, since they are much more expensive on the islands.Travelers might want to bring insect repellent as well. And lastly, as onany vacation, comfortable shoes are a must.

Caribbean History and CultureWe think of the “typical” Caribbean vacationer as being interested infun, sun, sand, and sea—and most of them are. But some travelcounselors miss out on large market segments by thinking only in theseterms. Surveys show that Americans’ interest in world cultures isgrowing and will continue to grow in the future. However, sometimesAmericans lack knowledge of and appreciation for the cultures in theCaribbean. Many clients have not yet been introduced to the culturalrichness to be found on these islands.

Visitors have opportunities not only to observe these cultures but alsoto participate in them. The possibilities can be as varied as the peoplewho partake in them—from late nights at the reggae festival to early-morning church services as guests of a local family through an islandPeople to People program, for example.

Culture enthusiasts will find a wealth of experiences waiting for them inthe Caribbean. They can brush up on their Spanish or French, visit200-year-old plantation houses or British forts, and dine on Creole cui-sine. You simply need to match their interests to the right destination.

HistoryAlmost all travelers will benefit from knowing something of an island’shistory and background, even if their only motivation is sun and fun.The language, architecture, ancestry, political affiliation, and local atti-tudes toward tourism all stem from the area’s history. Though eachisland’s history is a bit different, the broadest patterns are the same onmost of them:


You can telephone theCaribbean in one oftwo ways depending onthe location andnumber: (1) dial directusing the area code,just as you would in theUnited States; or (2)dial 011 (forinternational), the islandcountry code, a citycode (if required), andthe number. Check theWeb site atwww.att.com/traveler/tools/codes.html for acomplete list of codes.

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• 1492 Pre–Columbus: Peaceful Arawak Indians and, later, fierceCarib Indians populate the islands.

• 1500s: The Spanish discover and explore the islands. They exploitthe larger ones and ignore the smaller ones.

• 1600–1750: European powers and pirates settle and fight over the islands.

• 1750–1850: Slavery and plantation (sugarcane) economies rule theislands. European control is settled.

• 1850–1950: European owners experience economic decline. Slaveryhas been abolished, but economic hardship for common people persists.

• 1950–2000: Islands become independent or autonomous. The standard of living improves markedly on some islands, less so on others; the tourism industry becomes a dominant force.

The Caribbean had been populated by Indians for thousands of yearsbefore European discovery. By 1400 most of the islands were inhabitedby different branches of the peaceful Arawak and Taino tribes. Littleremains of these peoples today except rock drawings and tools, and afew place-names. Lucaya, the newly developed area next to Freeport,Grand Bahama, was named after an Arawak group.

However, the demise of the Arawaks was not due solely to European inva-sion. It is ironic that in the 100-year period before the Europeans wereabout to discover, conquer, and colonize the New World, the Arawakswere first invaded by the fierce Caribs, a nation of warriors from thenorthern coast of South America. The Caribs moved north and controlledmuch of the area by 1492. They colonized some islands and plunderedothers. Some historians believe they were cannibals. When Columbusarrived, he encountered both Arawaks and Caribs, and remarked on theferocity of the Caribs. The Caribs fought the Spanish for the next 200years. Today a small group of Caribs, mostly of mixed blood, still inhabitsthe island of Dominica, and a few live on St. Vincent.

The first 150 to 200 years of Spanish dominance in the Caribbean setthe stage for its future history. The Spanish enslaved and decimatedArawaks and Caribs alike in a quest for gold and silver and in a fewagricultural pursuits for which neither the islands nor their people werewell suited. Disease also ravaged much of the Amerindian population.In its search for riches, Spain focused primarily on what are nowMexico, Central America, and South America. The Spanish also madesure to conquer and hold the Greater Antilles—Cuba, Hispaniola,Puerto Rico, and Jamaica—mainly as hubs to ship the hoped-for


riches of the New World back to Spain. They built forts on theseislands to protect their ownership and to allow ships carrying booty tosail home safely. Today these forts are among the top tourist sights inCuba, the Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico.

The Spanish largely bypassed the smaller islands—the Bahamas, theLeeward Islands, the Windward Islands, and the southern islands—which were of little interest to them as they set about to secure themainland. Even their first foothold in the Bahamas, on October 12,1492, was soon abandoned. This is why the vast majority of countriesin Latin America are Spanish-speaking today, while most of theCaribbean islands are not.

The Caribs continued their hold on many of the smaller islands for thenext 100 to 200 years. When Spain’s dominance on the world stagebegan to decline (especially after the defeat of the Spanish Armada in1588), the Dutch, British, French, Danish, and others began exploring,colonizing, and gaining control of most of these smaller islands. Spainlost control of parts of the Greater Antilles as well. Jamaica was takenover by the British in the late 1600s; today little can be seen of Spain’slegacy there, except in the names of two of its most important cities,Spanish Town and Ocho Rios. The western third of Hispaniola (nowHaiti) was heavily settled by the French, who took advantage of Spain’sneglect of the island. In 1804 Haiti became the first independentCaribbean country.

Islands often changed hands frequently. For example, the Spanish heldTrinidad until 1797, when it was finally captured by the British. Its sister island, Tobago, changed hands more than twenty times, amongthe Spanish, French, British, Dutch, and pirate groups. It waseven colonized by Latvians at one point. If you look at thelocation of Dominica, St. Lucia, and Grenada (situated nearthe French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe), youwon’t be surprised that the language spoken today by theislanders among themselves is a French patois, even thoughthey eventually became English-controlled islands.

During most of the Spanish rule, many of the islands werebarely inhabited. The Amerindian population had beendecimated or annihilated. The introduction of sugarcaneand an organized means of producing it in large quantitieswould totally change these islands. This hugely profitablecrop needed a large labor supply. Some indentured ser-vants were brought in, but more laborers were needed. Beginningin the late 1600s, the British, French, and Dutch solved this laborshortage by instituting the slave trade. The Spanish and Portuguese


Haiti’s Unknown Slavebefore the National Palace

Courtesy of Ministry of Tourism of Haiti

were glad to participate in the shipments. In the triangular trade route,goods flowed from Europe to Africa, slaves from Africa to the NewWorld, and sugar and other crops from the Caribbean back to Europe.

Slavery was abolished in 1834 on British islands, in 1848 on Frenchislands, and in 1863 on Dutch islands. Abolition led to the decline ofmuch of the agriculture and plantation society on which it was based;nonetheless, large plantation farms continued to exist until the end ofcolonial rule. The great houses and plantation houses are still among thetop sights to see on some islands. Economic progress, or the lack of it,was determined in some cases by immigration—hundreds of thousands ofEast Indians and smaller numbers of Chinese came to the southernislands, especially Trinidad. In other cases, the World Wars and other out-side forces influenced the economic rise and fall of the island colonies.

The end of World War II brought about two great changes in theCaribbean. The first was a move toward independence: the islands usu-ally had the choice of becoming totally independent, becoming self-governing colonies, or remaining part of their mother countries.

The second major change during the last half of the 20th century wasthe rise of the tourist economy. The Caribbean—which first made itsmark as a strategic location between Europe and the Americas, andlater became a source of sugar in the triangle trade—is today able toexploit different resources: its sea, sand, and climate.

On the whole, tourism’s effects have been positive on most islands,raising their standard of living. But the impact of tourism has alsopresented challenges. Some portions of the population have not sharedin the prosperity and remain poor. Traditional family structure,knowledge of time-honored skills and arts, and ancestral cultures havesometimes been eroded in a rush to serve this new industry.

More and more ships disembark their ever-larger loads of passengers on theislands each year. Every island makes its own bargain with tourism and itsmillions of visitors to achieve the greatest gain at the least expense, especial-ly socially and environmentally. As tourism continues to expand, theislands’ histories will evolve again. Much of the region’s past history hasseen one group exploiting another. In a small way, travel advisors have theopportunity to positively influence the Caribbean’s future. A good way tostart is by choosing the right island for the right reason for one’s client.

Caribbean CultureOne of the Caribbean’s endless fascinations is the variety of peoplesthat have melded to create new and different cultures. Each island wassettled and fought over by different groups of Europeans, who brought


Many islands have aMeet the People orPeople to Peopleprogram. Theseprograms are ofparticular interest toculture enthusiasts, butyou might suggestthem to any vacationerwho wants to learnsomething of anisland’s culture. Checkwith individual touristoffices for details.Potential participantsusually have to provideinformation aboutthemselves, theirprofession andinterests, age, whenthey will be traveling,and contactinformation. Especiallysuccessful reportscome from theBahamas and Jamaica.

If clients set up a meet-ing, they should makesure to show up (or callto cancel), regardlessof how their holidayturns out. Here is anopportunity to add avery positive note tointernational relations,but no-shows make anextremely bad impres-sion.

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in slaves from Africa or indentured workers from Asia. Most islandschanged hands many times. Many have unique qualities, such asDominica’s Carib Indian population, Trinidad’s large East Indian pop-ulation, or Haiti’s art and independent heritage. Even most “sun andfun” travelers will want to be advised of the language, ethnic makeup,and atmosphere of an island. These cultural aspects can be as importantas a perfect beach in matching vacationers to the “right” island.

One thread that runs through Caribbean culture is its Creole, or mixedheritage, nature. Whether in the ancestry of the people, their language,food, music, religion, or other cultural aspect, this amalgam is paramount. Essentially, this Creole mix has an African foundation,combined with European, Asian, Carib, American, or Latin cultures.

As you read the next few pages, consult the map below. In this section,we will list islands according to their predominant cultural or linguisticinfluences. Most of the islands are grouped according to the culture ofthe European countries that finally won control over them. The fourEuropean countries that dominated the Caribbean are:

1. France

2. Spain

3. The Netherlands

4. Great Britain


SPAIN

SWEDEN

GERMANY

FRANCE

DENMARK

NETHERLANDSGREATBRITAIN

Lesbos

ATLANTICOCEAN

Caribbean Europe

Denmark, Sweden, Germany, and other nations also establishedcolonies in the Caribbean at one time or another but had less impact.The United States entered the stage much later, securing Puerto Ricoafter the Spanish-American War and buying the U.S. Virgin Islandsfrom Denmark in 1917. In the 20th century, however, the sheernumbers of visitors and expatriates from the United States and Canadahave had a profound impact on the Caribbean. Chinese, East Indian,indigenous Amerindian, and other groups have also made their ownmark. In addition, people from different islands have had mutuallybeneficial cultural exchanges with one another. Jamaicans, Haitians,Cubans, Barbadians, and Trinidadians work or live on other islands,and migrations continue. But it is the African heritage and culture thatmost profoundly influence the region.

French- and Spanish-influenced Caribbean destinations tend to be moreculturally foreign to Americans than Dutch- and British-influenced desti-nations. This is primarily due to linguistic differences. Nonetheless,African-influenced art, Caribbean music, and lilting variations of speechnever leave any doubt that one is in Bermuda, rather than in Britain; orin Fort-de-France, Martinique, rather than in Paris, France.

Massive tourism development and growth in numbers of cruise shipshave brought about other changes that make some islands morepsychologically accessible to Americans than others. Indeed, manyvisitors to the islands will seek out the familiar—those aspects that aregeared to North American tastes and culture—forgetting for themoment that they are in a foreign land. An all-inclusive resort inJamaica, a golf course in the Bahamas, a condominium on SintMaarten, or a casino on Aruba may be more in keeping with Americanculture than local culture. And that is just what some visitors want.

Some travelers seek the more “familiar” parts of less-familiar islands.They don’t want to be challenged by adapting to new cultural mores ordifferent languages on a vacation they view as pure relaxation. Othervisitors are willing to embrace a different lifestyle in order to experiencesomething new and unusual. The travel counselor should try to findout what travelers are looking for because they do not always articulateit and indeed may not even consciously know what they want. Thesophisticated honeymooners who have already been to France mayadore a chic resort in Martinique. The less-worldly honeymooners, whocannot decide between Disneyworld or a pretty beach in Guadeloupethey saw in a magazine, may feel completely out of place when theyarrive in Point-à-Pitre.

The French West Indies

The Caribbean’s French islands are probably the most culturally cohe-


sive. They are integral departments of France. Four major desti-nations make up the French Caribbean: the two major islands,Guadeloupe and Martinique; St-Barthélemy (called St.Barts); and half of the island of St-Martin. St-Martin ismuch smaller than the two major islands, but it is much clos-er to the United States and receives more American visitorsthan the other three islands. However, many stay on theDutch side of the island. St-Martin is also an extremelypopular port of call for cruises.

A lot of the resort staff on the French islands speakEnglish, but if visitors want to enjoy their vacation, theyshould have some familiarity with French. The food isoutstanding, and topless bathing is accepted at beaches andswimming pools. The overall style is very French and very chic.

Although we include Haiti in this section, it has no political associationwith France today. Even though its spoken language is Creole, Frenchis still used in schools, government, and larger businesses. Haiti hasbeen independent since the early 1800s, 150 years before most of theCaribbean achieved self-government.

The Spanish-Speaking Caribbean

Three of the Greater Antilles are Spanish-speaking, although they havebeen independent from Spain for more than a century. They are largeisland countries with strong, vibrant cultures. The DominicanRepublic shares the island of Hispaniola with Haiti. Puerto Rico cameunder the sphere of the United States after the Spanish-American Warin 1898. Cuba is by far the Caribbean’s largest island; it moved intothe Communist sphere soon after Castro gained control in 1959.

The Caribbean destinations of a few Spanish-speaking countries—including Mexico, Venezuela, and Colombia—are also considered inthe last part of this text.

The Netherlands Antilles or Dutch West Indies

The Netherlands Antilles (Dutch West Indies) consists of six islands,some of which have various relationships with the mother country.Three of the islands are just southeast of the U.S. Virgin Islands. SintMaarten is the Dutch side of the island that the French call St-Martin.It receives more American visitors and cruise ships than four of the fiveother Dutch islands combined. Saba and St. Eustatius (called Statia),which lie fairly close to Sint Maarten, receive a tiny fraction of SintMaarten’s tourist numbers. The other three Dutch islands, just off thenorthern coast of Venezuela, are known as the ABC Islands: Aruba,


Bastille Day in St-Martin

Courtesy of St-Martin Tourist Office

Bonaire, and Curaçao. Each is quite distinct: Aruba is a popular beachdestination, Bonaire is a dive and ecology center, and Curaçao is thecultural capital. Suriname was formerly Dutch Guiana.

The British West Indies

The rest of the islands, except the U.S. Virgin Islands, were eventuallygoverned by the British, though on many of them control seesawed(usually between the British and the French) for two centuries.

The islands of the British West Indies are quite diverse. Visitors willfind little similarity between a pink-fringed resort in very BritishBermuda and the remote Blue Mountains of very West African Jamaica.Nassau, Bahamas, and Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, might as well be on dif-ferent continents, which they almost are, the former being so nearNorth America and the latter so near South America.

Roughly from north to south these islands include Bermuda, theIslands of the Bahamas, the Turks and Caicos Islands, the CaymanIslands, Jamaica, the British Virgin Islands, Anguilla, Antigua andBarbuda, St. Kitts and Nevis, Montserrat, Dominica, St. Lucia,


Local Language

On all the islands, most residents speak their own version of the main language. Sometimes it’s just a variation of accent interspersed with specialwords in that island’s dialect; in other instances, it’s almost an entirely separatelanguage. These dialects usually fall into three categories:

• A patois (pronounced pa TWA) is usually a version of English or one of theother three dominant languages (French, Spanish, or Dutch). It can rangefrom little more than a strong accent to a very different dialect. An Englishpatois varies depending on what part of Great Britain colonists originallycame from (Ireland or Scotland, for instance). The same is true with a French patois; for example, colonists from Normandy brought their ownFrench dialect.

• Creole is often French-based, but it can be a mixture of any of the fourmajor language groups (French, English, Spanish, or Dutch) with large measures of African languages and smaller doses of other languages(Portuguese, Danish, Carib-Indian) mixed in. The Africans who were enslavedand brought to the Caribbean came from many different African nations andspoke many different languages.

• Papiamentu is the Dutch version of the Creole polyglot and is spoken mostly on the Dutch islands.

Barbados, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Grenada, and Trinidadand Tobago. Also, Belize was once British Honduras, and Guyanawas formerly British Guiana.

Religion and Folklore

Understanding the history of the Caribbean also helps in understandingthe area’s religions. Almost all of the islands are predominantlyChristian. The French and Spanish islands lean toward RomanCatholicism, while the British and Dutch islands lean toward variousProtestant denominations. Judaism is found more on the Dutch islandsthan others, and Hinduism and Islam are present along withChristianity on Trinidad.

On some islands, the religions of Africa also hold sway. Voodoo andother beliefs exist on a number of islands. These are serious forms oflocal worship. The Rastafarianism of Jamaica is well known throughoutthe world and has spread to some extent to other islands.

The religious creeds and rituals in the Caribbean are as different as theislands and people themselves, but have one thing in common—theyrepresent a deep spiritualism and belief in the supernatural.

The islands are rich in folklore, mostly coming from the traditions ofAfrica that have been passed down through generations. Twomythological creatures are the Obeah and the jumbie. The Obeah is a“superstitious force” that is believed to be responsible for both goodand evil. Jumbies, also said to be capable of good or evil, aresupernatural beings believed to live around households. Islanders mayspin many tales of sightings of jumbies. In some ways, jumbies seem tobe disembodied spirits—either spirits of the dead who did not move onor spirits of living people that inhabit the body of the dead. Travelerswatching Carnival parades will become acquainted with the stilt-walking “Mocko Jumbies.”

Weed women have a firm place in Caribbean folklore. Potions createdfrom recipes handed down for generations are amazingly effective, andsome are still used to cure various illnesses. Some visitors may findisland folklore colorful and amusing, but it is important to respectthese traditions.

The Arts

Music

For many people, Caribbean music is reason enough to visit the islands.Added to the tropical atmosphere, beaches, and resort life, it creates an


ambiance that is difficult to match anywhere else in the world.Caribbean music is both a mixture of African and Latin rhythms—fusedinto new sounds with new instruments—and completely new musicalforms invented on the islands.

Calypso, which originated in Trinidad, is a marriage of African-Spanish rhythms, English verses, and traces of French influ-ence. The words are often spontaneous improvisations on allsorts of subjects. Trinidad is also the birthplace of steel-drum(or steel-pan) music. Its haunting sound can be heardthroughout the islands, and a band often greets visitors uponairport arrival or cruise disembarkation.

Jamaica is the birthplace of reggae, which is closely linkedto the Rastafarian religion. Its lyrics deal with politics, reli-gion, social change, and anti-imperialism. Reggae isknown worldwide, as is its foremost artist, the late BobMarley. The Dominican Republic gave the world themerengue. Its form is similar to that of the calypso, but

the ballads are usually more sensual. Another dance, the beguine,supposedly began as the calenda, whose movements were so suggestivethat it was banned by slaveholders on Martinique and Guadeloupe.

Percussion—from tom-toms to congas to steel drums—is an importantelement in African-Caribbean music. From Spain came the infusion ofguitar and wind instruments. Hand-made instruments made fromgourds, pots and pans, bamboo sticks, cowbells, saws, jawbones, or treetrunks are also featured in Caribbean music.

Whatever the occasion, music can be heard. In nightclubs, at festivals, oron the street corner, visitors always hear a distinctly Caribbean lilt play-ing in the background—one they will remember long after they leave.

Literature and Motion Pictures

The region also has a recent tradition of literary works, some of whichhave been made into motion pictures. Wide Sargasso Sea, a novel byJean Rhys, born on Dominica, was made into a movie; it is now widelyavailable on video. The works of Julia Alvarez, a novelist from theDominican Republic, and Antiguan-born Jamaica Kincaid are widelyread in the United States. James Michener’s large tome, Caribbean,illustrates the history of the entire area with fictional characters in stories set on individual islands.

The Mighty Quinn, a motion picture starring Denzel Washington andset in Jamaica, is still widely available; it gives viewers a taste of the


Steel band in TrinidadCourtesy of J

im Stephens

island’s culture. Jamaica features prominently in a number of otherbooks and motion pictures.

A larger body of Caribbean literature exists for those who wish toexplore it. In this course, we briefly noted some West Indian authors. The guidebook that provides probably the most thorough discussion of Caribbean literature is Birnbaum’s Caribbean. The region’s mostfamous writer is the prolific V. S. Naipaul of Trinidad. Nobel prizes for literature have been awarded to St. Lucia’s Sir Derek Walcott and Guadeloupe’s Saint-John Perse (the pen name of Alexis Saint-Léger).

Food and DrinkThe Caribbean is a mélange not only of peoples and languages but also offood and drink. Though each island’s food is influenced by its French,Dutch, Spanish, or other heritage, the islands’ cuisines usually have morein common with one another than with their colonial ancestry.

Caribbean spices, fruits, and vegetables, along with African cookingmethods, create a uniquely African-Caribbean cuisine. The Bahamianscook conch in a dozen different ways, while the Cayman Islanders dothe same for farm-grown turtle. The Jamaicans jerk (season andbarbecue) their chicken and pork, while the Trinidadians curry theirs. Avisitor might have souse (a stew of pig’s feet and head) and collardgreens one afternoon and British high tea the next. Whether it’scallaloo soup on Grenada or fried plantains on St. Lucia, the Caribbeanboasts a wealth of cooking traditions.

On almost every island, visitors can enjoy excellent Creole dishes andsimple local island specialties made with a cornucopia of local vegeta-bles paired with conch, goat, or even more interesting protein sources.And on most islands, diners can usually find a hamburger, pasta, orsome Chinese food.

Not surprisingly, the restaurants of the French islands (Martinique,Guadeloupe, St-Martin, and St-Barthélemy) have some of the bestEuropean cuisine in the entire Caribbean. Even though St-Barthélemyis a small island, and receives relatively few visitors, its restaurants aresuperb. Martinique, Guadeloupe, and St-Martin will also appeal tothose who appreciate French gastronomy.

Restaurants on the Dutch islands bring East Indian cuisine to the WestIndies. The Dutch adopted the cuisine of their colonies in Indonesiaand later brought it to the Netherlands Antilles. Their renownedrijsttafel (rice table) is a buffet with rice and a variety of accompanying


dishes. The Dutch islands also have many Chinese restaurants, andDutch cheeses and other Continental fare are widely available.

The Spanish-speaking islands have their own distinctive cuisine,although they have borrowed from Spain and Latin America. In theDominican Republic, sancocho (a thick stew) is the national dish; inPuerto Rico, it’s lechon asado (roast pork); in Cuba, rice with blackbeans and pork are major food staples.

The Caribbean’s alcoholic beverages can be summed up in two words—rum and beer. Rum is made from sugarcane, which is grown onalmost every island. The Caribbean produces most of the world’s rum,and most islands have their own special brands. Visitors can often tourrum distilleries, which are among the area’s most popular sights. TheCaribbean’s many rum drinks are world famous: piña coladas, daiquiris,zombies, Cuba libres, and planter’s punch, to name a few.

Beer is the other popular alcoholic drink. Carib and Red Stripe are twoof the most popular local brands, but visitors will also find importedbeers everywhere. Specialty liqueurs such as Tia Maria from Jamaicaand Curaçao from Curaçao are popular items to consume or bring backhome. Water is safe to drink almost everywhere, but visitors often pre-fer bottled water. Many islands have local soft drinks made with gingeror fruits, and imported colas are available everywhere. Thirsty visitorsmight also enjoy coconut water and coconut milk, which can be foundat beach stands.

Local SportsTo some degree, Caribbean people enjoy the same participant andspectator sports as North Americans. On the other hand, their tradi-tions also emphasize other sports that are less familiar to Americans.The most obvious example is cricket, which is played on almost everyisland with British ancestry. The British West Indian team has some ofthe world’s best cricket players. Jamaica, Barbados, Trinidad, andAntigua have contributed several team members.

Soccer is immensely popular, and in recent decades the area hasproduced top Olympic track stars. Horse racing is widely enjoyed on afew islands. On other islands, locals enjoy cockfighting and battlesbetween a mongoose and a snake.

Celebrations and Special EventsPeople in the Caribbean are fun-loving, and festivals and parties are fre-quent. Carnival is the biggest event on many islands and is celebrated


nearly everywhere. The last five days before Lent (in February orMarch) is the culmination of more than a month of festive events; how-ever, on some islands, Carnival coincides with harvest festivals, indepen-dence day, or some other meaningful milestone. Band, music, costume,and beauty pageant competitions are spirited. If clients visit an islandduring Carnival celebrations, it will surely be a vacation to remember.

Carnival in Trinidad is by far the most renowned, rivaling thosein Venice, Italy, and Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and New Orleans’sMardi Gras. In Trinidad, the costumes are more elaborate (andoutrageous), the parades are larger, the steel-drum and calypsomusic is more authentic, the dancing is more widespread, andthe entire population gets more involved than anywhere elsein the Caribbean. Other Carnivals that stand out are those onMartinique and Guadeloupe (Mardi Gras), Curaçao,Barbados (Crop Over Festival in August), St. Lucia (nowheld in August so as not to compete with Trinidad’sCarnival), Nassau (Junkanoo, on the day after Christmasand the day after New Year’s), and St. Thomas (in April).

The Spanish cultures tend to have fiestas on days honoring the patronsaint of various cities. These celebrations are therefore spread out dur-ing the year. Music festivals are a prominent part of the Caribbean cal-endar. St-Barthélemy has a festival every January that features soloistsand musicians from around the world. The six-week-long BermudaFestival of the Performing Arts, in January and February, attractsinternational talent in many fields. In May, Barbados hosts theCaribbean Jazz Festival, brimming with the sounds of Latin music,pop, jazz, and salsa. Festival Casals draws world-famous orchestras,choruses, and choirs to Puerto Rico in June. Although we provide thedates for these and other festivals in the text, you should always verifyan island’s most current calendar of events with the tourist board.

You can research many other local events through the islands’brochures or Web sites. Carnival-type events are usually spontaneouslocal celebrations that are also shared with visitors, while music and artsfestivals are often presented with an eye to both local and foreignattendees. Other special events occur primarily for the vacationcommunity: such as yachting regattas, fishing tournaments, golf andtennis competitions, and windsurfing championships.

Each island also has its own special holidays, when banks, stores, andpublic buildings may be closed. On these days, it may be difficult orimpossible for visitors to go shopping or conduct business. The SFCTravel Publications’ World Travel Guide (www.travel-guide.com) listspublic holidays for countries around the world.


Carnival in Trinidad

Courtesy of Good Times Productionsfor Trinidad and Tobago Tourism

Shopping: Imports and Local Arts and CraftsSome clients consider shopping an important part of any vacation, andthere are many places in the Caribbean where avid shoppers will findbargains and locally produced goods. The merchandise on sale can bedivided into two broad categories: (1) imported luxury items fromaround the world and (2) handicrafts made on the islands.

Imported goods run the gamut: English bone china, Irish linens,Spanish porcelain, Japanese electronics, Swiss watches, French per-fumes, and liquor, to name a few. Prices on these products sometimesbeat those of duty-free airport shops and U.S. discount stores.

Shoppers who purchase locally made crafts and artwork contribute


Island Etiquette and Customs

Many Caribbean habits, mores, and customs differ from those of North America.Common sense and the golden rule cover most situations. But to avoid offendingtheir hosts, visitors should follow a few simple guidelines.

• A friendly greeting or small talk before commencing business, even for thesmallest purchase in the smallest shop, is essential. To do otherwise is considered rude.

• Those whose attitude is demanding and superior are unlikely to receive goodservice. Even if they do receive good service (as they will in the best ofresorts), they pay with a loss of respect.

• Nude bathing and topless bathing are accepted in some places, but they arefrowned upon or illegal in others. On all but the most informal of tiny islands,beachwear is usually unacceptable in most public places, including shops andrestaurants.

• The concept of “personal space” is much less defined in the Caribbean.Closeness during conversation or in crowded conditions is accepted as normal.

• Attitudes toward time are different. Those who want their vacation to follow atight schedule are apt to be frustrated. Vacationers should learn to unwind andenjoy the unhurried pace of the Caribbean.

• Giving money and candy to children is usually insulting to locals. The same istrue for throwing coins off ships to young boys diving for them. If travelerswant to contribute to the betterment of the people of the islands, they can buylocally made goods and crafts, or make donations to local charities.

directly to an island’s economy, often benefitting the peoplewho need it most. Almost every island features straw hats andother types of basketwork. Straw-weaving often uses traditionaltechniques derived from Africa. Designs feature African andEuropean motifs. Many islands offer hand-printed textiles,either silk-screened or batiked, and lacework. Using a tech-nique unique to their island, women on Saba produce lace.

Primitive art, best exemplified by Haitian art, is createdthroughout the Caribbean and is known worldwide. Thisfolk art features vivid colors and island scenes. Visitors canoften buy primitivist paintings at street shows, from work-ing artists, and at art galleries.

Woodcarving is another popular island art form. Carved animal andhuman figures or fierce masks will delight the art lover. Beautiful nativewoods such as mahogany are used.

Special varieties and brands of locally made rums are sold throughoutthe islands, and one bottle of the local rum does not count against thevisitor’s custom allowance upon return to the United States. Coffee is aspecialty of Jamaica, the Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico.

Clients should be advised not to purchase tortoiseshell jewelry andcoral jewelry. Turtles are an endangered species, and coral reefs must beprotected. Black coral is protected in most areas and is subject to theConvention on International Trade in Endangered Species.

The U.S. Virgin Islands, particularly St. Thomas, is the shoppingmecca for U.S. citizens because goods come into the islands duty-free,and the amount Americans can bring back home is double theallowance for the rest of the Caribbean. Other islands that have a lotof foreign-made goods are the Bahamas, St-Martin, the CaymanIslands, Barbados, and Aruba.

Those visiting Cancún and Cozumel can purchase handicrafts and folkarts from all over Mexico. Visitors to the coast of Venezuela can travelinland to Caracas to buy goods typical of South America.

Sights and AttractionsFor each island, we highlight exceptional natural sights—cliffs, moun-tains, famous beaches, snorkeling trails, national parks, waterfalls, caves,and so on. We also point out the most famous cultural sights, such ashistorical museums, churches, and art galleries. You should familiarize


A hat purchase on St-Barthélemy

Courtesy of St-Barthélemy Tourist Office

yourself with these natural and cultural sights. Most travelers usuallywant to see only one or two of them, such as the fort and old city ofSan Juan or a Mayan ruin in the Yucatán. For the small percentage oftravelers who want to see much more, you can do further research.Each chapter also presents some special secret that discerning travelersmight especially enjoy.

More and more, islands are featuring attractions that take advantage oftheir natural environment, such as aquariums, oceanariums, waterparks, and turtle farms. Also included in this category are special tours,such as a two-person raft trip down a river, a glass-bottom boat tour tosee the wonders of the deep, or a sail on a “pirate boat.” We mentiononly the major attractions and special tours for each island, but almostevery island has some variation of them.

Destinations that can be sold to atypical Caribbean visitors (especiallyculture enthusiasts) tend to be the larger and more popular islands andcountries, such as Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, andMexico, and, to a lesser degree, Jamaica and Trinidad.

Dining and EntertainmentThe larger and more-touristic islands offer a good choice of Americanand Continental restaurants, as well as those with more local flavor.Continental establishments are usually located in hotels, and many oftheir menu selections cater to the foreigner’s taste. The betterrestaurants make an effort to use as many local fruits and vegetables aspossible, as well as fresh seafood.

Some of the best restaurants in the Caribbean are affiliated with hotels,while other hotel restaurants serve standard, unimaginative fare gearedto the mass tourist market. Clients need to do a bit of research andchoose carefully. They should be particularly choosy if they eat at hotelrestaurants that also serve large tour groups.

In recent years, American travelers have become more willing to try avariety of cuisines. Diners in the Caribbean can find imaginative andauthentic preparations served in a tropical ambiance: from a simple fishsnack at a stand along the beach to more elaborate dishes at a restau-rant with a waterfall running through the middle of it. (See the Foodand Drink section under Caribbean Culture on page 37 and the indi-vidual islands for more detail.)

Clients vary widely in what they desire for nightlife. A solo guitarist at asmall nightclub may satisfy some; others may want nothing short of alavish show. Las Vegas–style nightlife can only be found in San Juan,


Thirteen UNESCO–classified WorldHeritage Sites arelocated in theCaribbean area coveredin this book. Seven ofthese are in “TheWestern Caribbean andthe Coast of LatinAmerica” section. Ofthese seven, five are inCuba and will not bediscussed here. Theother two are:

• Belize’s barrier reef system

• The port,fortresses, andmonuments ofCartagena,Colombia

The six that are in theCaribbean proper are:

• Morne Trois PitonsNational Park onDominica

• The Colonial City ofSanto Domingo,Dominican Republic

• The Citadelle andSans Souci in northern Haiti

• Brimstone HillFortress on St. Kitts

• La Fortaleza and ElMorro forts andSan Juan HistoricSite in San Juan,Puerto Rico

• The downtownwaterfront ofWillemstad, Curaçao

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Puerto Rico, and Nassau/Paradise Island, Bahamas, although Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, has a Latin flair in its entertainment scene.

The most-touristic islands, such as St-Martin, St. Thomas, Aruba, andBarbados, always have nighttime entertainment to keep visitors occu-pied. All-inclusive resorts such as Club Med, Sandals, and SuperClubshave some form of entertainment every night, ranging from local islandmusic to amateur talent shows. On many islands, resorts take turns pre-senting shows or special bands, and guests can visit a different spotalmost every night. On smaller islands, entertainment tends to be pre-sented on weekends rather than on weekdays. Jump-ups are usuallyheld somewhere on Fridays and Saturdays. On some islands, this localentertainment is quite accessible; on others, it needs to be sought out.For music lovers, authentic reggae, steel-drum, African-Caribbean, andworld music is easy to find.

Some islands have a very lively entertainment scene, and others arenoted for their very low-key nightlife. The accompanying chart willhelp you select the right island for your clients.


Nightlife on the IslandsThe Most ActionThe Bahamas Dominican RepublicPuerto Rico

If your clients want gambling as part of their Caribbean vacation, you can elimi-nate some destinations right away. Easily the most popular gambling location isthe Bahamas—specifically Nassau/Paradise Island and Freeport, Grand Bahama;these two islands are close to Florida and are relatively sophisticated. (The OutIslands have no casinos as yet.) Casinos in Guadeloupe and Martinique requireproper dress, a $10 entrance fee (admission to slot-machine areas may be free),and a degree of sophistication. In addition to those listed below, Antigua, St. Kitts,Turks and Caico Islands, St. Vincent are other destinations that also have casinos.

Top Islands for GamblingArubaThe Bahamas

Lively ResortsAntiguaArubaBarbadosJamaicaSt-MartinTrinidad

Ample Fun Here TooBermudaCayman IslandsGuadeloupeMartiniqueSt. KittsSt. LuciaU.S. Virgin Islands (St. Croix and St. Thomas)

CuraçaoDominican Republic

Puerto RicoSint Maarten (Dutch side)

Selling the Caribbean: Specialty NichesSpecial-interest travel is becoming more and more popular. Travel coun-selors who develop expertise in a particular special interest (such as div-ing) often become quite successful in selling to this niche market. In thissection, we cover some of the specialized categories for Caribbean travel.

Tour PackagesEven if your clients wish to travel independently rather than on a setcharter or bulk air program, you can still book them on a package with atour operator. (A bulk air program is one that charters seats on regularlyscheduled flights and otherwise operates like a charter program.) Yourclients retain almost all the flexibility of independent travel and mayenjoy a savings over booking the hotel separately.

Besides general tours, there are many special-interest tours, such assports packages and honeymoon specials. Scuba-diving packages areamong the most popular. Environmental packages may feature tours ofrain forests, nature preserves, and marine reserves. Natural history toursfocus on flora and fauna. Be it sailing, tennis, golf, horseback riding, oranother special interest, travelers can usually find a suitable tour package.

Travelers with a passion for a special activity will, on average, be willingto spend more, travel farther, and take longer to get to their destinationthan other travelers. Travel counselors with expertise in a particular spe-cial interest can build up their clientele around this niche market. (SeeThe Travel Institute’s CTA or CTC elective module Selling SpecialInterest Travel for more details.)

CruisesCruising has become one of the fastest-growing and most successfulsegments in the U.S. travel industry, and the Caribbean is the premiercruise destination. The huge expansion in ships and the increasednumber of available berths between 1995 and 2005 will make this truefor years to come and probably much longer. Cruising is a relaxing,convenient way to discover a few islands on one trip. The season forsailing in the Caribbean is nearly year-round because the waters aregenerally calm, and the trade winds keep temperatures steady.

One reason that so many travelers enjoy the cruise experience is that itgives them a way to sample more than one island’s beaches, sights,shops, and restaurants. Most cruise lines call on at least three islands,some up to six, in a seven-day sail. At the end of the week, passengersdiscover that some islands have more appeal than others, making theirchoice of next year’s trip to the sun easy.


A cruise also has an advantage when it comes to cost and convenience.Packaged within one price is just about every major expenditure—accommodations, food, transportation, and entertainment. Everything—from fine dining to activities—is just a few steps away. In addition,travelers can see a number of islands without having to worry aboutseparate transportation schedules and reservations.

The main ports of embarkation and debarkation for cruises are Miami and Fort Lauderdale, Florida; San Juan, Puerto Rico; andBridgetown, Barbados. But cruises also depart from Tampa,Florida, New York, Texas, and other locations. Caribbeancruises vary in length from two to 18 days, but seven-daycruises are the most popular. However, for more than adecade, the short two- to five-day cruise has been the fastest-growing segment of the industry.

Many seven-day cruises are round trips from Florida to theNorthern or Eastern Caribbean or to the Western Caribbeandestinations of Jamaica, the Cayman Islands, and Mexico.Some weeklong cruises leave from San Juan or Barbados toallow for exploration of the farther eastern and southernislands and the coast of Venezuela. Two- to four-day cruises from Florida usually visit the Bahamas only.

Many ports of the smaller islands do not have enough deep water ordock space to accommodate today’s megaships. In such cases, shipsmust anchor in the harbor, and passengers are transferred to and fromshore in smaller boats called tenders. Passengers suffering from physicalhandicaps may find getting in and out of the tender difficult becausethey have to negotiate steps or narrow gangways. The water is usuallycalm close to shore, but any kind of ocean swell can make using tendersmore difficult. During very bad weather, it is impossible. The captainthen makes the decision to move on to the next destination.

Travel counselors should remember that Caribbean cruises provide agreat deal of variety: travelers can sample different cultures, shops,scenery, and activities almost every day. The drawback is that cruisegoersget only a fleeting glimpse of each island. However, most people take acruise in order to relax rather than to tour. This is particularly true ofrepeat cruisegoers, some of whom may not even get off the ship at someislands. Those who do tour every island often report that the islandstend to blur together after the third port. Travel counselors may suggestthat clients visit the beach on one island, go shopping on another, andengage in some sport activity on yet another, just to vary their journey.

Cruise travelers will sometimes make a snap judgment, good or bad,about an entire island, based solely on the few hours they spend at a


A tender in the Cayman Islands

Courtesy of Cayman Islands Department of Tourism

cruise port. However, one should try to avoid falling into this trap.Some islands do not put their best face forward at their ports and docks.Travel counselors can develop a more well-rounded picture of a destina-tion by visiting the rest of the island and by doing some research.

Sports Today’s travelers are increasingly interested in active vacations.Dozens of water sports are available in the Caribbean, and theyare strong travel motivators for sports-minded vacationers. Wewill consider five of them: snorkeling, scuba-diving, sailing,windsurfing, and sportfishing. Many travelers will plan anentire trip around one of these activities. Other watersports—such as parasailing, water-skiing, body-surfing,board-surfing, swimming, paddle-boating, kayaking, jet-skiing, and waterfall-climbing—are diversions for mostvisitors, who have chosen a destination for other reasons.The most frequently visited islands have many of theseactivities, and we will not mention them for eachdestination. However, on certain islands a particular sportmay stand out as being among the best in the region (or

may hardly exist at all), and we will highlight this fact in the text.

Snorkeling

Skin-diving or snorkeling, and scuba-diving have a lot in common.They can be enjoyed as secondary activities at almost every destinationcovered in this text. However, travel counselors should know the bestdestinations for these two sports, in order to make recommendations or at least to be conversant with these diving spots when clientsmention them.

Despite their similarities, snorkeling and scuba-diving are distinctsports. In snorkeling, swimmers breathe through a snorkel or tubewhile keeping their head underwater for better vision. Experiencedsnorkelers can dive underwater for as long as they can hold theirbreath; when they need to come up for air, they clear their snorkel ofwater by blowing it out and then continue to breathe again. But evennovices to the sport can quickly learn to snorkel.

Some of the most famous snorkeling sites are not suitable for everyone,and at certain times of the year they might not be in the best of condi-tion due to hurricanes, other climatic changes, or overuse by visitors.For example, certain sea lagoons along the Yucatán are inundated bythousands of people from cruise ships on some days. These lagoons arespectacularly beautiful, especially for first-time visitors; for other vaca-tioners, however, the crowds might ruin the experience.


Windsurfing in Guadeloupe

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Though snorkeling is much less the sole motivation for a trip comparedto scuba-diving, beginning snorkelers may later take up scuba-diving.Many areas, particularly those with shallow water, have been speciallydesignated as snorkeling sites or underwater trails, with signs describingthe coral and other sights.

Scuba-Diving

Scuba-diving requires a commitment to a program of learning andpractice. Prospective participants must show a certificate proving theyhave taken such a course; otherwise, it is illegal and dangerous for anoperator to rent or sell the equipment or air tanks needed for the dive.A resort or dive company can provide a limited one-day scuba-divingcourse. This only allows the person a restricted dive with the instructoror a dive in a particular, controlled environment. The certificate is generally not valid for dives elsewhere.

A full certificate (authenticated by the Professional Association of DiveInstructors, or PADI) requires many hours or weeks of classroom studyand practice. Special PADI certificate tour packages are offered. Toobtain the certificate, students take a five-day course of fairly intensiveclassroom instruction and practice lessons. Student divers will take atleast one or two dives toward the end. (Dives to any substantial depthshould not be undertaken within the last 24 hours before flight depar-ture.) The certificate is recognized throughout the world, though forsome specialized dives (into caves or at lower depths), operators mayrequire further training on site before the dive.

Because of their commitment and intense dedication, scuba-divers areoften repeat travelers who spend more than average cost to pursue theirpastime. Targeting this lucrative niche market requires some extra researchand preparation, but travel counselors will find that it is worth the effort.


Excellent snorkelingsites can be foundthroughout theCaribbean, but thefollowing are amongthe more famous ones:

• U.S. and BritishVirgin Islands,especially theunderwater trails atSt. Croix’s BuckIsland NationalMonument and St.John’s Trunk Bay

• Out Islands of theBahamas, especiallyEleuthera

• Turks and CaicosIslands

• Cayman Islands

• Curaçao’sUnderwater Park

• Bonaire

• Cozumel and thelagoons and reefs ofMexico’s YucatánPeninsula

• Belize

Top Dive Destinations

Almost all islands have outstanding dive spots, but three stand out among theothers:

• Bonaire

• Cayman Islands

• Cozumel

Even though Saba has practically no beaches, its underwater mountain cliffs,lava flows, and marine life are spectacular. Other outstanding diving destinationsare the Out Islands of the Bahamas, the British and U.S. Virgin Islands, Turks andCaicos Islands, many of the Leeward Islands and Windward Islands and Belize.

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A number of islands have operators that offer snuba, a cross betweensnorkeling and scuba-diving. Divers wear a mask with a tube connectedto an air tank on a boat. Accompanied by a guide, participants can godown to 20 feet and stay for 30 to 40 minutes while the boat followstheir movements. The big advantage is that no training, experience, orlevel of physical fitness is required.

Sailing

On many islands, visitors can arrange a half-day or full-day sail on aSunfish or Hobie Cat, often without prior reservations. Anotheroption, particularly for small groups (four to ten people), is to charter ayacht or boat for a week’s sail. The cost usually is comparable to aseven-day cruise on a large cruise ship. Your clients can charter a vesselwith a complete crew that sails, cooks, and takes care of every detail.Or they can charter a bareboat (without crews) if they are experiencedsailors. Many clients have never considered the option of chartering aprivate boat, so this is a niche market just waiting to be cultivated.

Windsurfing (Sailboarding)

Windsurfing is popular at almost every Caribbean destination, as aremost watersports. Instruction is available at many major resorts or withlocal sports operators, while the experienced can seek out numerouslocations where they may be the only sail in sight. Warm waters (forthose planned or unplanned plunges into the surf) and steady tradewinds throughout the Caribbean make it a paradise for this sport.


Standing out somewhat among their fellow destinations for windsurfing are

• The Dominican Republic: The north coast at Cabrete is the prime location(especially good during the summer) and is home to international competitions.

• Barbados: Both calm waters for beginners and strong winds for the experi-enced (especially good during winter and spring), Barbados is also home tointernational competitions.

The constant strong winds of Aruba and Bonaire, any of the French islands(sailboarding is particularly popular in France), and the British Virgin Islands(steady breezes and numerous close islands make island-hopping by sailboard aunique venture) are other destinations that stand out somewhat above others. Anumber of guidebooks also point out Nevis as a hidden secret of calm waterand few crowds, ideal for beginners. Venezuelan Margarita Island, with thesame strong winds off the coast of South America as its neighbors, the ABCs,could be considered another “sleeper,” not discovered by many Americans.

Sportfishing

On most islands, it is easy to charter a boat for a half or full day ofdeep-sea fishing, but those dedicated to the sport will most likely concentrate on the Northern Caribbean. The Bahamas, the CaymanIslands, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands in particular caterto deep-sea fishing for marlin, sailfish, swordfish, barracuda, and others.

Golf

Palm trees, cliffs, and swirling seascapes greet golfers at some of theworld’s most beautiful courses. Some of the larger islands have resortsthat are particularly known for their spectacular and challenging courses: El Conquistador outside of San Juan, Puerto Rico; Casa deCampo in the Dominican Republic; and Tryall in Jamaica. On otherislands, clients can combine golf with a stay at a secluded getaway (suchas the Four Seasons Resort on Nevis).

First-time visitors to the Caribbean sometimes mistakenly assume thatevery island has a golf course. Therefore, you should always ask newclients if they are interested in the sport. About 10 of the destinationsin this text do not offer any golf. Obviously, these islands would notappeal to a golfer.

Tennis

The destinations listed as tops for golf also boast the best in tennisfacilities, but almost every major resort in the Caribbean has tenniscourts. If tennis is one of your client’s major interests, you shouldcheck on how well the courts are maintained at each resort you consid-er, whether they are lighted for night play, and whether the resort has atennis pro on staff.

Specialty Niches

Ecotourism

Nature’s beauty can be appreciated on every island, but some are particularly attractive to ecotourists. More than half of St. John in theU.S. Virgin Islands is a national park. Because of its lack of beaches,Dominica is less developed than other islands. But its jungle-like interior boasts a bubbling volcano and pristine waterfalls, and the islandis perhaps the area’s number-one destination for ecotravelers.

Part of Bonaire is a national park with wondrous bird life on land andamazing marine life offshore. St. Lucia’s Pitons are large mountains rising from the sea and covered in rich foliage. Tobago, Barbuda, andSaba are pretty, natural islands that receive few tourists. But even thelarger, more-developed islands offer natural beauty: the rain forest in


For more informationon golf, see The TravelInstitute’s LifestyleSpecialist courseentitled Golf.

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Puerto Rico or Martinique, the mountains in the DominicanRepublic, or the Blue Mountains in Jamaica.

Even the most developed islands have a stake in the environment—forexample, Nassau’s Flamingo Preserve and Grand Bahama’s LucayanNational Park, which has one of the most extensive underwater cavesystems in the world.

On certain islands, ecotravelers will find a wide array of exotic fauna:the mighty mammals of the sea—whales, dolphins, and manatees—as well as monkeys, crocodiles, turtles, and large iguanas. And bird-watchers will be fascinated by the area’s many species of birds. Notto be outdone by the animal life is the Caribbean’s flora: bougainvillea,


Top Sailing Areas• The Abacos in the Bahamas • The Grenadines

• Antigua • U.S. Virgin Islands

• British Virgin Islands • Many of the Windward Islands, in addition to the Grenadines

Top Islands for Golf• The Bahamas (Nassau/Paradise • Jamaica

Island and Grand Bahama)

• Bermuda • Nevis (Four Seasons Resort)

• Dominican Republic • Puerto Rico

Top Islands for TennisTennis can be excellent at any deluxe or first-class resort that puts a priority onthe sport, but you might look particularly at the following destinations:

• Antigua • Jamaica

• The Bahamas • Puerto Rico

• Bermuda • U.S. Virgin Islands (St. Thomas and St. Croix)• Dominican Republic

Top Ecotourism Destinations

• Belize • Puerto Rico

• Dominica • St. Lucia

• Dominican Republic • Trinidad

• Guadeloupe • U.S. Virgin Islands (St. John)

• Jamaica • The Yucatán

• Martinique • Smaller, less-developed islands

jacaranda, and hibiscus are among the dozens of flowers that are asbeautiful as their names. Mangrove swamps and volcanic rain forestshold species yet undiscovered.

Adventuring and Hiking

Most islands offer interesting hikes along beaches or through their interiors. Serious hikers will usually prefer some of the volcanic mountains in the Southern Caribbean.

The Windward Islands—volcanic, mountainous, and lush—providessome of the Caribbean’s best hiking. A trek to the top of the vol-cano in Dominica is one of the most challenging conquests inthe Caribbean, but the volcanoes in Guadeloupe and Martiniqueare also popular. Hikers can trek up St. Lucia’s volcano andexamine (cautiously) its smoldering mud pots. Trinidad’smountainous interior is a wealth of bird and animal life. A hiketo the highest peak of Jamaica’s Blue Mountains can be bothculturally and ecologically adventurous.

Many islands offer other kinds of adventurous sports, suchas kayaking and cave-exploring. While swimming withsharks, barracuda, or stingrays is a relatively safe adven-ture, divers who want to push the envelope can explorelittle-known shipwrecks, cays, reefs, and caves.

Other adventures await those who creatively seek them out. While mosttravelers wait for stability to return or development to arrive, a few maywish to see Montserrat’s erupting volcano firsthand. They also mightwant to experience Haiti’s culture, track the jaguars of Belize, take amail boat to a Bahamian Out Island with few tourists, or visit theMaroons in Jamaica.

Special-Occasion Travel (Weddings, Honeymoons, or Anniversaries)

Arranging weddings and honeymoons in the Caribbean is a special travelniche market that can prove to be quite lucrative. Of course, honeymoonsform the bulk of these trips, but travel counselors concentrating on thismarket should also learn the ins and outs of arranging on-site weddings.

Weddings and honeymoons often involve luxurious trips with manyupgrades. When booking such trips, the travel counselor forms a bond with two clients who, statistics show, will be frequent travelers in the future.

Many of the islands vigorously promote weddings at their destination.They, too, know that a wedding will create a special bond between the


Exploring on the Cayman Islands


For more informationon honeymoons anddestination weddings,see The TravelInstitute’s LifestyleSpecialist courseentitled Honeymoonsand DestinationWeddings.

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couple and the place where they were married. Many couples comealone for the ceremony, but others bring a coterie of well-wishers andattendants, in effect creating a group movement. Check with islandtourist offices or their Web sites for information on this topic. Travelcounselors must not only put together a truly special trip package, butalso make sure the necessary legalities are followed, such as paperworkand obtaining a marriage license within a certain time frame. To getstarted, access the Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) Web site at www.doitcaribbean.com and select “Honeymoons and Weddings,”which lists fees and rules for each island. Their Caribbean VacationPlanner also has a section on marriage requirements for each of its destinations.

Travel counselors should also try to sell an anniversary trip to thecouple in following years. Promotion should begin in subtle ways soon after the honeymoon. After six months, the subtlety can bedropped. A trip to a new Caribbean destination, but similar to the onethey enjoyed, is a natural promotion for the following year. Somecouples may wish to repeat their trip to the same destination, but theyare the exception.

Anniversary trips need not be limited to wedding anniversaries.Promoting birthday trips will produce business year-round. And what’sbetter than a long weekend in the Caribbean for someone who is hardto shop for?

Island events are another occasion for specialized travel. If you reviewthe “Celebrations and Special Events” section for each island, you aresure to find events that appeal to clients with particular interests—fromfishing tournaments to music festivals.

Gay Travel

The gay travel niche market, one of the fastest-growing markets in thelast 20 years, has been welcomed by many islands but has been discour-aged by a few. Because island policies can change, we suggest that youcheck gay-oriented guidebooks or online sources concerning currentpolicies or attitudes on different islands. Most of the all-inclusive “cou-ples-only” resorts take only heterosexual couples.

Accessible Travel

When you reserve Caribbean travel for clients who need extra helpbecause of physical challenges, you should first request informationfrom tourist offices and then ask hotels and other providers specificquestions. Many of them are not equipped to handle these clients.However, resorts and attractions in Puerto Rico and the U.S. VirginIslands must conform with the Americans with Disabilities Act.


For more informationon gay and lesbiantravel, see The TravelInstitute’s LifestyleSpecialist courseentitled Gay andLesbian Travel.

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A number of agents have gotten started in this niche market simply bythoroughly investigating a destination for their first client with a physi-cal disability. Attention to detail is paramount; first you must determinea client’s special needs and then match the client to hotels and serviceproviders that will meet those needs. The Web site for the Society forAccessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH) at www.sath.org is a goodstarting place.

Family Travel

Most Caribbean islands bill themselves as family destinations, andrightly so. They offer varied and fun activities, in addition to sun, sand,and sea. Rather than listing “top family destinations,” we present here afew generalizations.

The choice of resort or hotel and its amenities is usually more importantthan the island. You should find out if the resort has activities for chil-dren and a family-friendly reputation. Many of the all-inclusive chainshave properties specifically oriented to families. On the other hand,some families may prefer condominium or villa accommodations andwant to plan their own activities.

As you learn the general ambiance of each island, you might decide thatthe islands that strongly feature nightlife, golf, gourmet dining, andother more adult activities are less appropriate for families. The same istrue for islands that are more romantic or sophisticated, or that caterprimarily to couples. Nonetheless, a lot of islands that meet those criteriahave wonderful resorts for families. Generally, the less-developed islandsor very quiet islands might be less desirable for the average family.

Spas

Some resorts go one step further in pampering the client and have eitheradded spa facilities or have been built initially along the spa concept.Surveys show spas are one of the fastest-growing special interests in traveland in the Caribbean in particular. They generally are all-inclusive andupscale, making them especially attractive for the travel counselor tospecialize in. Their facilities can range from a massage and health club tofacilities for various baths, showers, wraps, therapies, exercises, and muchmore. Spas are attractive to many types of clientele, but the typical spaclient is a middle-aged career woman with an income over $45,000.

Sandals Resorts and Spas are particularly well known and have threelocations, while the Ritz-Carlton has opened at least four spa resorts.Spas are found on most of the islands, but Jamaica, St. Lucia, theBahamas, and the U.S. Virgin Islands have been among those in theforefront of the trend.


For more informationabout accessible travel,see The TravelInstitute’s LifestyleSpecialist courseentitled AccessibleTravel.

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For more informationabout spas, see TheTravel Institute’sLifestyle Specialistcourse entitled Spas.

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Sporting ActivitiesIt needs to be reiterated that the sports that follow are available onmost of the islands in the Caribbean. Many clients will find facilitiesand experiences on other islands to be on a par with those listed here.That is especially true for water sports. That being said, some haveachieved more popularity or have been more fully developed in theseareas than others, and we present here the standouts:


Snorkeling Out Islands of the BahamasBonaire and CuraçaoCayman Islands

Scuba-diving BonaireCayman Islands

Sailing AntiguaOut Islands of the Bahamas

Windsurfing ArubaBarbadosBonaireBritish Virgin Islands

Sport Fishing The Bahamas (especially Bimini)Cayman Islands

Golf The BahamasBermudaDominican Republic

Tennis AntiguaThe BahamasBermudaDominican Republic

Hiking DominicaGuadeloupeJamaica

Mexican Yucatán (Cozumel)Turks and Caicos IslandsU.S. and British Virgin Islands

Cozumel

The GrenadinesU.S. and British Virgin Islands

Dominican RepublicFrench islandsMargarita IslandNevis

Puerto RicoU.S. Virgin Islands

JamaicaNevisPuerto Rico

JamaicaPuerto RicoU.S. Virgin Islands

MartiniqueSt. LuciaTrinidad


For More Online InformationBelow is a summary of Web sites that are particularly helpful to agentsselling the Caribbean.

General Information on the Caribbeanwww.doitcaribbean.com Site for the Caribbean Tourism Organization

(CTO); with links to individual Caribbean Web sites (which are also listed at the end ofeach chapter in this text)

Online Guidebook and Hotel Book Siteswww.caribbeansupersite.com Caribbean information site for Footprint bookswww.concierge.com Site for Condé Nast Traveler

www.fodors.com Comprehensive site from Fodor’s guide books

www.lonelyplanet.com Lonely Planet guide book site

www.desteo.com Brochures and operators throughout the world

www.ohgonline.com Official Hotel Guide (OHG) site, scheduled for launch spring 2001; available to OHG subscribers

www.checkstarfirst.com Star Service, hotel analysis, available throughsubscription

Government Web Siteswww.travel.state.gov Official site of the U.S. State Department

www.cdc.gov Health reports from the Centers for DiseaseControl (click on “Travelers’ Health”)

www.fco.gov.uk Government site of the United Kingdom (thesite is oriented toward Britons but providesdetails and points of view on destinations)

www.dfat.gov.au Government site of Australia, similar to the siteabove

Other Web Siteswww.xe.net/ucc Provides universal currency conversions

www.sath.org Site for the Society for Accessible Travel &Hospitality

www.travel-guide.com SFC Travel Publications’ World Travel Guidelists public holidays.

www.worldtime.com Converts time zones and lists public holidays

www.voltagevalet.com Gives helpful information and answers ques-tions about electricity and voltages in countriesaround the world

How to Study the IndividualDestination ChaptersThe destination chapters in all but the last section of DS Caribbean allhave the same format. The last section presents an overview of otherdestinations that border the Caribbean, without a full treatment oftheir countries. Details that are substantially the same for all islands (forexample, information on car rentals, taxi transportation, scuba-diving,and other water sports) are presented in the course Introduction ratherthan being repeated in each chapter. Destination chapters are struc-tured in the following format.

ProfileOn the page opposite the profile, there is a map of each destinationindicating main places, airports, and attractions. Though not labeled assuch, the profile section strives to highlight the island’s distinctivequalities. There are many similarities among islands, but no two areexactly alike. Each is a unique combination of topography, culture, andactivities. If you can distinguish among the various islands, you are wellon your way to selecting the right destinations for your clients. Youmay not learn every distinction among the islands immediately; indeed,you should return to the profile section time and time again. You canadd your own notes about the island’s distinctive characteristics, eitherfrom your own observations or from colleagues and clients.

Fast Facts

The “Fast Facts” section provides information on the following categories:

• Land Area: The surface area of the destination provides some per-spective on the size of the island. Most island destinations are reallychains of islands or have smaller islands and cays nearby.

• Population: The size of an island’s population also gives perspectiveon a destination. All population figures are estimates, based on themost recent censuses.

• Capital: For many of the islands, it is are important for you to knowthe capital, although for others it is not as vital. Some students want tolearn as many capitals as they can. However, trying to memorize thesecapitals is a much lower priority than knowing about the island itself:where it is, how to get there, and what to emphasize in selling it.


Fast Facts

You should learn the most important capitals, such as Nassau,Bahamas, and San Juan, Puerto Rico.

• Languages: This category lists the language(s) that local peoplespeak to one another or in official business. On most islands, Englishwill be spoken by people dealing with tourists.

• Time Zone: Each island’s time is given in two ways: (1) its relationto Universal Time, Coordinated (UTC) and (2) its relation toEastern Standard Time (EST) in the United States. Because manyislands do not go on daylight-saving time, their time will correspondto two different U.S. time zones, depending on the time of year.

• Drive on: This category indicates on which side of the road people drive.

• Currency: The currency listed is the island’s legal currency(however, U.S. dollars are often accepted for a wide range oftransactions). No attempt is made to convert it to U.S. dollars, asthis rate is constantly fluctuating. For current rates, see the Web siteat www.xe.net/ucc. Some islands that formerly used Europeancurrencies switched to the Euro in 2002.

• Electricity: The standard U.S. electrical current is 110 volts, 60cycles AC. American appliances can be used on islands that have thisstandard or something close to it. Some islands use other voltage sys-tems, such as 220 volts, and people with American appliances willneed a converter in order to use their hair dryers or shavers. All trav-elers should also bring plug adapters because foreign wall plugs maybe two-pronged or have round holes instead of rectangular ones.

Historical BackgroundThe history of each island is kept to a minimum. The main focus is onhow the island’s history differs from others in the region and onaspects that greatly affect tourism today. This makes the “History” sec-tion in the Introduction even more important. It concentrates on thesimilarities in the history of the entire Caribbean.

Arrival and Location BriefingArrival information gives an idea of the island’s accessibility from theUnited States and where flights originate. Clients usually want to knowhow accessible these destinations are from their home city andairport(s). You should be prepared to answer the following questions:Are there direct flights? Where will travelers connect? How long aretravel times?


Would you like to stumpother Caribbean“experts” in your office?Ask them what coun-tries have the capitalsof The Valley or TheBottom. The Valley isthe capital of Anguilla,and The Bottom is thecapital of Saba.

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The location briefing gives the following information:

• The location of the major resort areas and main hotel choices

• The distance from the airport to the major resort areas

• An overview of island geography (especially for larger islands)

For example, on Aruba, 99 percent of hotels are along two long beach“strips”; both are within 15 minutes of the airport. On Jamaica, you canchoose among three major destinations and two or three smaller ones;these areas are from five minutes to two hours from the airport.

We sometimes provide other overviews. For example, the major physicalfeature of Martinique is its volcano. It is located in the northern part ofthe island, whereas most vacation resorts are located in the south.

Local TransportationAlmost all islands have taxis and rental cars, so this information is notrepeated for each island unless the situation is different (for example,Bermuda has no car rentals). Read the “Local Transportation” sectionin the course Introduction to get an overview. We highlight transporta-tion that visitors, rather than local citizens, use.

Around the Island: AttractionsTravel counselors should know some of the famous beaches, sights, andtowns that are mentioned in the text. Examples includeUNESCO–classified World Heritage Sites, renowned ecological areas,and sights that draw the most visitors, as well as key sights in the majorcities or at the island’s cruise port.

Most islands have a worthwhile museum, a venerable house of worship,colonial architecture, and arts and crafts galleries of some type, but wehave not attempted to mention every one. The purpose of the “Aroundthe Island: Attractions” section is to give you a flavor of what exists andpoint out the obvious key places.

The “Around the Island: Attractions” section also touches on the typeand style of accommodations on the island. Again, the intent is to giveyou an idea of the accommodations that might predominate at thislocation. To give a flavor of what is available, we often mention byname well-known hotels, chains, all-inclusives, or historic inns. The list-ing of a particular lodging in no way means that it is more suitable to aspecific client than one that is not mentioned. It is not within the scopeof this book to list and critique all the hotels in the Caribbean.


To select the right accommodations for your clients, you should consultother sources, such as the Official Hotel Guide, the Caribbean HotelAssociation Gold Book, tourist office references, guidebooks, and youroffice’s preferred trade manuals. Check on the condition of lodgingsafter hurricanes, and note whether any hotel construction or majorrenovation is being planned during your client’s travel dates. (See the“Accommodations” section on page 17 in the course Introduction for further information.)

What’s Special about (the Destination)?This section of the chapter describes the attributes and activities thatmake the island unique and what type of travelers might find the islandmost appealing. Some examples of an island’s special quality areTrinidad’s Carnival, Haiti’s cultural richness, and the Cayman Islands’world-class diving.

Most islands have beaches, boat trips, tennis, golf, snorkeling, diving,windsurfing, sailing, and other water sports and activities. These sports aresingled out in the “What’s Special about (the Destination)?” section onlyif they are extraordinary for the Caribbean or if they do not exist at all.Remember that beaches, sun, and outdoor activities are what draw mostvisitors to the Caribbean, even though we do not repeat these attributesin every chapter.

Island CultureMany travelers go to the Caribbean for fun, sun, sand, and sea, and not necessarily the culture and the people of the island. However, mostvisitors will have at least a passing interest in their cultural surroundings.The “Island Culture” section touches on aspects of language, ancestralorigin, religion, music, customs, food, the arts, sports, music, and othertopics. Although we do not cover each topic for every island, we point outwhere these cultural elements are particularly noteworthy. (See the“Caribbean Culture” section on page 30 in the course Introduction forfurther information.)

Celebrations and Special EventsIn this section, we have selected celebrations and special events thatstand out among all the others and are mostly likely to inspire travelprimarily for the purpose of experiencing them. Some special eventsthat are not mentioned in the text might be primary motivators forniche market travel groups. To get a more complete schedule of localcelebrations, consult the tourist offices or their Web sites.


Dining and EntertainmentFood is not the leading travel motivation for most visitors to theCaribbean, but the mélange of cuisines and styles of preparation canmake dining out a special treat.

We have attempted to find distinct cuisines or unusual restaurant settings that will enhance the visitor’s experience, such as authenticFrench cuisine, Indonesian rijsttafel, or dining at an old plantationhouse. If you are researching restaurants for clients, you have to gobeyond the tourist office brochures. Use the hints given here and anumber of guidebooks or magazine sources to get current suggestionsfor the best in dining on a particular island. Or ask clients returningfrom a Caribbean trip for their favorites.

The destinations described in this text vary widely in the types of enter-tainment they offer. On some islands, nightlife consists of casinos andLas Vegas–style stars; on other islands, nightlife is limited or simple atbest. Nightspots are notorious for changing names and locations, butthis section gives you an idea of how lively the entertainment scene ison a particular island.

Cruise CallThe “Cruise Call” section indicates how popular the island is forcruises, how far the sights are from the dock, and whether it is betterfor clients to walk around on their own, take the ship’s tour, or hire ataxi for their own tour. Vacationers who are staying on the island maywant to know how busy it is as a cruise port and what sights to avoidwhen the masses descend on the port for their day trips.

Selling (the Destination)“Selling (the Destination)” is one of the most important sections in thechapter. It builds on what you learned in the “Profile” and “What’sSpecial about (the Destination)?” sections. We offer selling tips andsuggest niche markets to develop, most of which can be broadened toother destinations. We urge you to take the information presented andput it into action, either by recommending certain islands to first-timerswho are looking for a tropical trip or by proactively searching outclients with special interests.


Island SecretThe “Island Secret” section suggests a special place or insider secret toshare with a client at the right time. It might be a brand-new resort orsight, an exceptional person, or an offshore cay that few know about.

Key Points about (the Destination)The end-of-chapter summary provides a review of key points about theisland. You should recognize each item on the list and be able to brieflydescribe the place or activity.

For More InformationAt the end of each destination chapter, we provide the address of theisland’s main tourist office headquarters in the United States. Thelarger and more-visited destinations have tourist offices in additionalU.S. cities. You should become familiar with any tourist offices locatedin your area. A few of the smaller destinations are represented only bythe Caribbean Tourism Organization or offices on their home island.We also list the toll-free phone number, local long-distance number, faxnumber, e-mail address, and Web site.

There are many other Web sites besides the official ones created by thetourist offices. Such Web sites provide details, current reports, and sub-jective analyses that are impossible to obtain elsewhere. But remember,the information is only as good as its source. Internet sites dealing withtravel are awash with commercial sites touting their own hotels or ser-vices and enthusiastic amateurs reliving their dream trips. The Web siteof the local island newspaper is often a reliable way to learn about theisland’s local scene and current events.

My Contact Information

Blank lines are left at the end of each chapter for you to write in e-mailaddresses you may obtain or your favorite Web sites.


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Many of the touristoffices have shortvideos on theirdestinations.Requesting these andwatching them will notonly provide an easyand fun reinforcementof your study of theislands, but will helpyou preview which onesyou might wish to sharewith future clients. Inaddition, the Caribbeanis usually the subject ofmany video travel seriesthat can be borrowedfrom most libraries orbe purchased.

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62 • Destination Specialist Caribbean © The Travel Institute

Bermuda

THE ATLANTICNC

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Turks andCaicos Islands

Bahamas

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The AtlanticThree island groups technically lie outside of the Caribbean Sea. They sharesimilar characteristics with islands in the Caribbean and are considered whenclients are choosing vacations to the region. From north to south, they are

■ Bermuda

■ The Islands of the Bahamas

■ Turks and Caicos Islands

© The Travel Institute Caribbean: The Atlantic • 63


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Hamilton

Somerset Village

Ireland Island North

Ireland Island South

Horseshoe Bay

Bermuda Maritime Museum

Royal Naval Dockyard

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse

SANDYSPARISH

SOUTHAMPTONPARISH

WARWICK PARISH

PAGETPARISH

PEMBROKEPARISH

Botanical Gardens

Hamilton Harbor

Verdmont

SMITH’SPARISH

DEVONSHIREPARISH

HAMILTONPARISH

ST. GEORGE’SPARISH

St. George

Fort St. Catherine

CrystalCaves

NationalGallery

Bermuda National Trust Museum

St. David’s Head

Tucker’s Town

Natural Arches

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formerU.S. Naval Air Station

Bermuda UnderwaterExploration Institute



Castle Harbour

Bermuda Aquarium,Museum and Zoo

BERMUDA

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Compared with most of the destinations that we examine in DSCaribbean, Bermuda stands apart. First of all, it is not in the

Caribbean—it isn’t even close. Bermuda lies in the Atlantic Ocean, 600miles due east of North Carolina and more than 1,000 miles from theCaribbean. More important, this beautiful and gracious island issteeped in British tradition and hospitality. Rather than being a tropicalisland with a European heritage or veneer, Bermuda remains half-British, half-tropical—an amalgam of the best of two worlds. ButBermuda also fulfills the same travel motivations that bring people tothe other islands in this text—idyllic beaches, warm breezes, and sportsand fun under an island sun.

Bermuda’s pink-sand beaches slip into azure waters, while pastel houseswith white roofs dot the green hillsides. The scent of aromatic oleander,frangipani, bougainvillea, and hibiscus fills the air. This is an island par-adise that speaks of honeymoons, romance, and past traditions. In addi-tion, Bermuda is a well-planned, upscale community—one that strictlycontrols its development. There are few areas of the island that are notas pretty as the proverbial postcard. The number of cars, the extent ofnew building, and the impact of cruise ships and their passengers are allregulated. But the island offers extensive accommodation and diningchoices and every type of sporting opportunity.

Bermuda’s location in the Atlantic also brings with it a somewhat dif-ferent climate than the islands in the Caribbean. From April throughOctober, the summer weather is ideal, with highs in the 70s and 80s.From November through March, the weather is spring-like. We providea climate chart on the next page.

Nighttime lows average approximately 10 degrees cooler than the dailyhigh temperatures. In the summer, a lightweight jacket or windbreakeris recommended; during the rest of the year, visitors should bring aslightly warmer jacket. Rain is distributed almost equally during theyear, with May being a bit drier than other months. Like most islands,Bermuda receives rain in the form of squalls that are usually over quickly rather than weather fronts that remain for any length of time.Hurricane season corresponds to the rest of the Caribbean.

© The Travel Institute The Atlantic: Bermuda • 65

BermudaFast FactsLand Area21 square miles

Population58,500

CapitalHamilton

LanguagesEnglish

Time ZoneUTC (Universal Time, Coordinated) -4 orAtlantic Standard Time (AST) (EST +1).It does observe daylight-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyThe Bermuda dollar is pegged to theU.S. dollar. This means that U.S. curren-cy is accepted everywhere.

Electricity110 volts, 60 cycles AC, same as theU.S.

Historical BackgroundCenturies ago these islands were known as the “Isles of Devils,” ashundreds of Spanish galleons and British ships were destroyed on therocks, reefs, and shoals that surround Bermuda. Shakespeare made useof the island’s infamy when he wrote The Tempest; his shipwreckedcharacters wash up on an island modeled after Bermuda.

In keeping with form, the island’s first colonists were shipwrecked pas-sengers of the Sea Venture; the ship was headed for Virginia when itfoundered at sea during a storm in 1609. Though most of them continued on to Virginia the following year (their history and that ofthe Jamestown colony are intertwined), two stayed on and welcomed60 English settlers in 1612. Later in the century, African slaves, NorthAmerican Indians, and Scottish and Irish prisoners were brought in.

Bermudians became well-to-do as plantation owners, as privateers dur-ing the American Civil War, and by being in the forefront of travel andtourism for a century and a half. The Hamilton Hotel opened in 1863.Mark Twain is reputed to be Bermuda’s first modern American tourist.Bermudians helped introduce golf, tennis, and yacht-racing not only totheir own island but also to North America.

Bermuda received the right to self-government in 1684. As such, it isthe oldest British colony with a popularly elected House of Assembly.

Arrival and Location BriefingBermuda actually consists of 181 small islands, about 20 of which areinhabited. However, the seven main islands are closely clustered and areconnected by bridges and causeways; together they create one contigu-ous island that we refer to as the destination of Bermuda. Few of theother islands are ever visited.

In geographic terms, Bermuda is one of the most remote islands in theworld (similar to Hawaii in the Pacific), and no humans had ever beenpresent on the island until the 1500s. However, Bermuda is only 750miles from New York City and barely more than an hour and a half byplane. Nonstop flights from North America arrive from New York,Newark, Boston, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Charlotte, Atlanta, St. Louis,Toronto, and Halifax.

The island’s 21-mile length means that nothing is too far.Accommodations can be found on any part of the island, but they tendto congregate around Hamilton and along the South Shore.


BermudaTemperatures

Month Average High(° Fahrenheit)

January 68

February 67

March 68

April 71

May 75

June 80

July 85

August 86

September 84

October 79

November 74

December 70

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Local TransportationBermuda’s transportation program is different from that of any otherdestination in this book. Visitors are not permitted to rent cars. EvenBermudian households are limited to one car. Instead, an excellent system of public transportation and plenty of taxis are available to getaround the island’s 21 square miles. Mopeds, bicycles, and walking areother popular modes of transportation.

To get to their hotel from the airport, arriving visitors can take a taxi orone of the airport buses and minivans (which carry 6 to 26 passengers);the buses and minivans make a sweep of a number of lodging locales.Once settled in a hotel, visitors often find that many sights, restaurants,and activities are within walking distance. When they wish to see moreof the island, they can do so independently or take a tour. Bus tours ofthe island are available year-round; taxi tours are another option.

For independent sightseers, Bermuda’s bus system is efficient and com-prehensive, and covers all major routes on the island (tell clients to lookfor the pink buses with blue stripes). If you look at a map of Bermuda,you will understand why the bus system is supplemented by a ferry sys-tem. Ferries allow travelers to quickly get from one end of the “fish-hook” to the other, avoiding long bus rides. The islands are divided into14 bus zones. Exact change is necessary, but most tourists will want topurchase tokens, books of bus tickets, or passes valid for several days.The small ferries are good buys for both transportation and a seagoingsightseeing experience.

Bikes and mopeds are other transportation options for an independenttour of the island; they can be rented by the hour, day, or week. A driver’s license is not required for mopeds, but renters must be at least16 years old. As mentioned in the Introduction, those renting mopedsshould be advised to exercise caution—roads are narrow, many are linedby rock walls, traffic is heavy, and driving is on the left. Counselorsshould also be cautious in recommending this mode of transport for liability reasons. However, Bermuda is one of the most pleasant islandsfor sightseeing by moped, especially for those who usually rent a car.Operators are required to offer instructions, and renters should be confident they know how to operate the motorbike before leaving.Pedal bikes can be taken on ferries at no charge; mopeds will incur a fee.

Horse-drawn carriages are a pleasant and romantic way to see parts ofthe island. Most of them congregate on Front Street in Hamilton nearthe cruise-ship docks.


Around the Island: AttractionsBermuda is only one and three-quarter miles wide at its broadest pointand is usually less than a mile wide. Therefore, visitors exploring theisland will never be far from breathtaking views of sea and shore. Themain roads going from east to west are crisscrossed by smaller onesleading to one coast or the other. Short causeways and bridges link theislands. A 32-inch drawbridge, which opens to allow sailing maststhrough, is the smallest drawbridge in the world.

Bermuda’s sights include dozens of forts, batteries, and a naval dockyard. The first fort was built by English settlers soon after theyarrived in 1612; construction of others went on for three centuries.The forts are the oldest stone buildings in Bermuda and earned theisland the name “Gibraltar of the West” for a time.

Forty parks and nature areas contain hundreds of species of floweringplants and ferns, most of which were brought to the island from themainland of North America or the West Indies. Bermuda’s beaches areusually found in bays, coves, and small strips, rather than stretching formiles along the shore. The beaches on the south shore have the finepink-tinted sand that the island is famous for. Bluffs form the back-drops for these idyllic strands, and the waves are rough except wheresheltered by reefs or coves.

Each of Bermuda’s nine parishes is packed with historic sights, art gal-leries, import shops, and scenic views of harbors, beaches, and pastel-colored cottages. Bermuda has a wealth of sights for an island its size.We will touch on some of the highlights of the nine parishes, from west to east.

• Sandys Parish: quiet lands, many bays, harbors, andsheltered islands; shops and quaint inns at SomersetVillage; the old plantation house of Springfield; olddockyards on Ireland Island and at the Royal NavalDockyard, now meticulously restored as an entertain-ment and shopping complex; Bermuda Arts Centreand Bermuda Maritime Museum, which includes artifacts from the original Sea Venture.

• Southampton Parish: Horseshoe Bay Beach, one ofthe most photographed beaches in the world; GibbsHill Lighthouse, the oldest cast-iron lighthouse in theworld (built in 1846); the 600-room SouthamptonPrincess Hotel, whose 100 acres cross the width of theisland from ocean to harbor; the 403-room SonestaBeach Hotel & Spa, surrounding three natural bays.


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• Warwick Parish: two fine golf courses; site of Bermuda’s first airport,where seaplanes brought visitors from New York in the 1930s; cliffsand beaches lining the south shore.

• Paget Parish: the most desirable residential area (across the bay fac-ing the capital); Botanical Gardens, one of Bermuda’s prime attrac-tions, with an orchid house, fruit groves, formal gardens, andCamden, the official residence of Bermuda’s premier; the forests andswamps of Paget Marsh nature reserve; the many hotels along theparish’s posh south shore, including the 250-room Elbow BeachHotel, part high-rise and part cottage colony.

• Pembroke Parish: Hamilton, the capital and the seat of island government at Sessions House; City Hall, seat of city government,with a theater, exhibition hall, and art gallery; Hamilton Harbor,with its ferries, cargo liners, and cruise ships; the 443-roomHamilton Princess resort, overlooking the harbor; the Birdcage,where policemen choreograph the flow of traffic; Fort Hamilton;the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, which sponsors the Newport-to-Bermuda race every other year.

• Devonshire Parish: with Ariel Sands oceanfront cottage colony,owned by actor Michael Douglas.

• Smith’s Parish: charming Flatts Village; Verdmont, a graciousexample of an original colonial Bermuda home.

• Hamilton Parish: the Bermuda Aquarium, one of the island’s toptourist attractions; Blue Hole Hill, where Bermuda pottery is made;the extensive cave systems of Crystal Caves; the 201-room GrottoBay Beach Resort and Tennis Club; the Swizzle Inn (see “IslandSecret” later).

• St. George’s Parish: King’s Square in the city of St. George; theforts surrounding St. George, the island’s first capital; St. Peter’sChurch (originally built in 1617), the oldest Anglican church in theWestern Hemisphere; the Bermuda Trust Museum; the formerU.S. Naval Air Station; Lighthouse Hill; the Natural Arches;Tucker’s Town.

What’s Special about Bermuda?Yachting and wreck-diving are two sports that take on a special aspectin Bermuda. The Newport-to-Bermuda race every even year attractsinternational interest. The race begins in Newport, Rhode Island, andfinishes at St. David’s Head, the easternmost part of Bermuda.


The waters around Bermuda are one of the island’s most fascinatingsights. For almost 500 years, there have been shipwrecks off the island,resulting in an undersea treasure of nautical history without equal. Theisland offers the “Bermuda Shipwreck Certificate Program” wherebyclients dive with any of the island’s five dive operators to one of 18designated shipwreck sites and are awarded a certificate documentingtheir dive.

Helmet diving, during which participants walk along the sandy bottomabout 15 feet deep and are fed air through their helmet, is popular.Plenty of island cruises and glass-bottom boats navigate on top of thewater as well, and some visit a private island for picnics.

Golf, too, is special here. With eight golf courses, the island offersmore golf per square mile than any other island on earth. Golfers’shirts must have collars and sleeves; cut-off jeans and gym shorts areprohibited, but Bermuda shorts are acceptable. With 80-plus tenniscourts, Bermuda gives tennis enthusiasts more than the average opportunity for their sport.

Another special activity is hiking the Railway Trail. Bermuda once hada railway running between St. George’s Parish on the eastern end ofthe island and the village of Somerset to the west. Opened in 1931, ithad the reputation for being the most costly railway, per mile, everbuilt and the slowest in construction, averaging two and a half milesper year. Visitors loved the railway, with its first-class wicker chairs andsecond-class benches from which they could view the entire island.However, heavy use during World War II put it in dire condition. Withthe coming of automobiles and buses to the island, the railway was dis-mantled and sold to Guyana.

In 1984 the government dedicated the lands of the old railway to thepublic by formally opening the Railway Trail. Some of Bermuda’sloveliest sightseeing can now be enjoyed from the deserted route. Itis usually a short walk from the trail to most of the sights mentionedin “Around the Island: Attractions.” The trail follows the old railroadtrack bed across the entire island except for one three-mile sectionthat has become a major road in Hamilton Parish. There are accesspoints for walkers, and parts of the trail can be used by those on bicycles and motorbikes.

Bermuda’s accommodations can be special too. Besides the island’slargest resorts and its varied selection of inns, apartments, and guest-houses, it has an accommodation style that is uniquely Bermudian.Cottage colonies consist of a main clubhouse with dining room,lounge, and bar surrounded by cottage units spread over landscaped


Bermuda has moresights within a smallparcel of land than per-haps any other island.Because of this abun-dance, Bermuda hasrecently issued a newHeritage Passport. Forone price, tourists areentitled to unlimitedadmission to eight ofthe island’s top sights:• Bermuda

UnderwaterExplorationInstitute (see next page)

• Maritime Museum• National Gallery• Bermuda

Aquarium,Museum, and Zoo

• Fort St. Catherine• Tucker House

Museum• Bermuda National

Trust Museum• VerdmontIn addition, a series ofunique “ExplorerExperiences” has beencreated, such as theone in which partici-pants perform zookeep-ers’ duties at the zoo.

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grounds. Most have a kitchenette for beverages or snacks, but not forcomplete meal preparation. These complexes all have a beach and/or apool and are considered in the first-class to luxury category.

Some of Bermuda’s most famed smaller posh resorts offer jazz brunches, kayaking off their beaches, saunas, English pubs, verandahsoverlooking the water or gardens, and exquisitely groomed grounds.These amenities, while certainly not unique to Bermuda, set a differenttone compared to most islands. Bermuda also has two private clubs inthe luxury category; both require introduction by a member in orderto stay there or use the facilities.

Island CultureWhen American travelers visit England or France, to a great extent theyparticipate in the culture of those nations. When they visit many of theislands in the Caribbean, they may touch upon the local culture peri-pherally, but often tend to separate themselves from it and enjoy anAmerican lifestyle transplanted to a tropical isle.

Visiting Bermuda is more like visiting a European culture, one that hasa lot in common with that of the United States. The sports, foods, language, and even religious practices of Bermudians coincide closelywith what travelers experience during their stay. Although Bermudiansare aware of the paramount importance of tourism to their economy,they act as equals in the exchange. They have refused to compromisetraditional values, tried-and-true customs, or the beauty of their islandfor the sake of financial gain. Nonetheless, visitors are treated to the natural friendliness of their Bermudian hosts.

Bermudian culture retains many British customs—English pubs, after-noon tea, a good cricket match. Although dress during the day is casu-al, it is usually neat. Evening wear can be a bit dressier than Americansare used to; men wear jackets and ties at most good restaurants.Topless or nude bathing is neither legal nor tolerated. Visitors shouldwear swimsuits and shorts only at the pool or beach, and should coverup in hotel lobbies and local stores. Besides strong British and Africanheritages, North American Indians, Portuguese, and other Europeangroups have influenced the culture. Caribbean styles, such as reggaeand calypso music, are also popular.

Seafood is the biggest influence on Bermudian cuisine. Rockfish, whichis similar to the ubiquitous grouper found in the Caribbean, is on mostmenus, along with conch fritters, fish chowder (often laced with blackrum), and fish stew.


One of Bermuda’snewest sights is theBermuda UnderwaterExploration Institute,which opened in July1997. Wreck artifactsand a magnificent shellcollection can be seenalong with excitingexhibits that plumb themysteries of the ocean.

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Bermuda onions were once an island staple. However, once Americanfarmers found the right soil and techniques for growing these onions,U.S. production surpassed that of Bermuda.

A Bermuda breakfast traditionally features salted codfish. But in manyplaces in the Western Hemisphere, the term “Bermuda breakfast” hascome to mean a full breakfast that is included in the room price.

Celebrations and Special EventsBermuda goes to great lengths to provide cultural events of high quality to attract visitors to the island during the off-season. In Januaryand February the Bermuda Festival of Performing Arts featuresofferings such as concerts by well-known jazz musicians and operastars, ballet with stars of the Bolshoi, performances by the EnglishChamber Orchestra, and theater presentations. The schedule of eventsis different every year, and the festival draws Bermudians and visitorsalike. There is even a Festival Fringe at which almost any local artistcan perform.

February is also Golden Rendezvous Month, dedicated to visitorsover the age of 50. Free bonuses, special events, and various activitiesare offered for mature travelers. At the other end of the spectrum, inMarch and April the tourist office sponsors Spring Break Sports andSpring Break Arts competitions for visiting students.

In May Bermuda Heritage Month features various cultural and sporting activities, culminating in Bermuda Day. A number of Britishholidays are celebrated in Bermuda, such as the Queen’s Birthday inJune. Cup Match and Somers Day are celebrated in August. A cricketmatch pits the east end of the island against the west. For Bermudians,this is a very serious match; visitors may need a local to help thembrush up on their cricket rules.

Dining and EntertainmentThere is little difference between “island cuisine” that Bermudians eatand what is served in many of the restaurants, although Continental,Italian, French, American, and Asian cuisines are also available. A num-ber of restaurants have won international acclaim from noted authori-ties such as AAA and Wine Spectator. Seafood is king and is found inmany special dishes. In addition to those mentioned under “IslandCulture,” lobster, guinea chick (a cross between a crayfish and aprawn), and mussel pies are also popular.


NotwithstandingBermuda’s somewhatstrict customs regard-ing beachwear, in thesummer it is not at allunusual to see police,mail carriers, and busi-ness people wearingshorts—Bermudashorts, of course. Theymust be no shorterthan a couple of inchesabove the knee. Britishtroops are believed tohave begun the custom100 years ago whenthey arrived on theisland in summer.

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Despite Bermuda’s lack of casinos or lavish revues, it does have a bustlingnightlife. In the evening, visitors can enjoy party cruises, outdoor festivals, live music at pubs, limbo dancers and steel-drum bands, discothèques, and ballroom dancing. The larger resort hotels have showsand cabarets in their lounges. Two of Hamilton’s best nightclubs areopen until 3 A.M.

During the winter months, nighttime activities at many hotels are cur-tailed, and visitors will have to be a bit more proactive in finding outwhere entertainment is being held. They can do this by consulting freeweekly listings. Those who enjoy culture can choose among thePhilharmonic, the National Dance Theatre, the Civic Ballet, and community theaters.

The better nightclubs and restaurants on the island ask that men wearjacket and tie for dinner, although these places also have casualevenings periodically. When making reservations, visitors should inquireabout the dress code.

Cruise CallBermuda’s location and tourism policies make it a cruise port differentfrom any other in this text. Cruises generally depart from New York Cityfrom April to October, spending a day at sea in each direction and fouror five days in Bermuda. Most ships dock at Hamilton, and may spendsome additional time at St. George on the eastern end of the island. Thisgives clients plenty of time to see the many sights on the island, com-pared with what they see at most cruise ports. They have the time toexplore using any of the modes of transport mentioned in this chapter.Bermuda allows a maximum of three or four ships in port at one time soas not to distort the island’s ambiance and strain its infrastructure.

Selling BermudaBermuda can be a good sale year-round—if the right clients are chosenfor the right time of the year. The conventional warm-weather beach-vacationer is best advised to visit during the summer season (Maythrough October). The pleasant spring-like temperatures during therest of the year are ideal for golf, tennis, hiking, and other activities.

The island holds themed events and cultural activities of a high caliberduring the cooler winter season, and hotel rates are discounted at thevery time they are at their peak in the Caribbean. In March and April,Bermuda becomes a popular spring-break destination for thousands ofyoung people from the East Coast. The special events conducted by the


tourism industry, close monitoring of activities, and Bermuda’s typicallymore affluent clientele tend to keep spring-break season under reason-ably good control. However, not every client will want to go at thistime, and hotel choice may be more critical than usual.

For a number of reasons, a vacation in Bermuda is different from oneon other islands. This affluent and well-developed island is more acombination of a Caribbean island, Cape Cod, and the coast ofEngland. Sophisticated clients interested in a safe, clean, pretty, no-hassle environment usually love Bermuda.

Most destinations have trade-offs. It’s hard to see where Bermuda hasany negatives, except for the cost factor vis-à-vis some clients’ travelbudgets. The island is hundreds of miles from any landfall and agriculture only comprises a few hundred acres, so foodstuffs andgoods of all types must be imported. Clients who are prepared to payfor the excellent value they receive will seldom be disappointed.Packages, off-season rates, guesthouse stays, and careful planning canhelp those who are more cost-conscious. One way to economize is witha weekly bus and ferry pass; for $34, most sights, beaches, restaurants,and activities will be within the reach of every client.

Bermuda helps sell its off-season (November 1 through March 31) byhighlighting the special activities that occur every day of the week indifferent parishes: these include golf tournaments, nature tours, perfor-mances of the Gombey dancers, cooking demonstrations, historicalreenactments, talks, and teas.

Island SecretThe rum swizzle is the drink to order while in Bermuda. Tradition saysit was invented at the Swizzle Inn. Tourists keen on made-in-Bermudaproducts can purchase a bottle of Gosling’s Black Seal Rum and comehome with a recipe for the rum swizzle to evoke memories of their trip.The same rum when mixed with ginger beer creates the “Dark andStormy,” a favorite drink throughout the island.

Key Points about Bermuda• Located in the Atlantic

• Sophisticated lifestyle, cross–cultural heritage

• Hamilton and St. George

• Pink beaches, pink buses with blue stripes, pastel cottages


• Diving, yachting, golf, tennis

• Reverse seasons from most of the Caribbean

• Historic and natural sights

For More InformationBermuda, Department of Tourism205 East 42nd StreetNew York, NY 10017Phone: 800-223-6106 (ext. 252 for fax facts) or 212-818-9800Fax: 212-983-5289E-mail: [email protected] site: www.bermudatourism.com

Bermuda has its own Bermuda Specialist program, which includes on-island training, seven of The Travel Institute’s Continuing EducationUnits, consumer referrals, and much more.



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Little Abaco Island

Walker’s Cay

Great Abaco Island

Marsh HarbourMan-O’-War Cay

Treasure CayGreen Turtle Cay

Elbow CayGrand

Bahama Island

Eleuthera

Spanish WellsDunmore Town

Harbour Island

Glass WindowGovernor’s Harbour

Rock Sound

Hopetown

Exuma Cays

Great Exuma Island

Little Exuma IslandGeorge Town

Stocking Island

Exuma Cays NationalLand and Sea Park

AndrosIsland

NewProvidenceIsland

Cat Island

San Salvador

Berry Islands

Long Island

Great Inagua Island

Little Inagua Island

Bimini Islands

Staniel CaySampson Cay

Crooked Island

Acklins IslandMayaguana

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THE BAHAMAS



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•CapitalCity or townAttraction

The Islands of the Bahamas (buh HAH muhz) are perhaps unlikeany other destination in the DS Caribbean course. They are closer

to the United States and more familiar to Americans than any otherislands, but at the same time many of the islands are somewhat remoteand unknown. When travelers think of the Bahamas, they conjure up amental image of only one or two of the islands more visited by tourists;the smaller islands remain hidden gems. However, the Bahamas offergreat diversity and will appeal to a broad spectrum of clients.

The Bahamas are actually an archipelago of islands, 15 to 20 of whichare populated and receive tourists. The islands have a wide range of fea-tures: the glitter of a Las Vegas–style revue in Freeport; a New Englandcolonial-style village on Harbour Island; the nightlife of Nassau; a banon alcohol sales in the Abacos, whose residents are descendants ofPuritans; gambling on Paradise Island; sailing, diving, swimming, andseeing giant iguanas in the Exumas.

In some ways, the Islands of the Bahamas are a microcosm of the entireCaribbean, a mini-Caribbean of their own. Although the Bahamasdon’t have strong French, Dutch, and Spanish heritages and don’t havehuge volcanoes and mountain ranges, they are quite diverse in otherways: they sport almost every water and beach activity; and visitors willquickly discern differences in culture, language, and lifestyle on manyof the islands. Each island exudes its own personality: some islands havestrong African roots, while others show American cultural influences;on some islands, the inhabitants are the descendants of New Englandsettlers, while others have Haitian immigrants who have been presentfor little more than a decade. The Bahamas have some of the area’sbiggest and most famous resorts, as well as quiet and peaceful islandswhere visitors can room with a local family.

Historical BackgroundMost historians agree that it was a Bahamian island (probably SanSalvador) that one of Columbus’ sailors first saw on October 12,1492. Columbus was captivated by its peaceful Lucayan peoples,unending miles of beaches, and shallow, azure waters; however, hesoon left because the islands did not hold the gold and spices he was

© The Travel Institute The Atlantic: Bahamas • 77

The BahamasFast FactsLand Area5,380 square miles of land (100,000square miles of land and water), dividedamong 700 islands

Population300,000

CapitalNassau, New Providence Island

LanguagesEnglish

Time ZoneUTC -5 or Eastern Standard Time (EST).They do observe daylight-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyBahamian dollar (equal to the U.S. dollar)


seeking. Later Spanish conquerors took little more than a quarter of acentury to decimate the islands and leave them virtually unpopulatedfor 150 years. Few ships purposely stopped at these flat islands, butmany were accidentally detained forever on its shallow shoals androcks, providing future divers and booty-hunters with innumerablesites for exploration.

Puritans, coming both directly from Great Britain and indirectly viaBermuda, colonized the islands in the last half of the 1600s. In theearly 1700s, these settlers vied with pirates for control until Britainmade it a colony and brought some stability. Substantial numbers ofBritish Loyalists emigrated during and after the AmericanRevolutionary War, and many brought their slaves. A number of keyislands and towns reflect the character of those emigrants and theirreligious and commercial backgrounds.

Though the islands are British culturally, the Bahamas have always been strongly influenced by their powerful next-door neighbor, theUnited States. The Revolutionary War, the Civil War, two World Wars,and the era of Prohibition were boons to the islands’ economy and also provided influxes of new residents and citizens. In between theseevents, the economy often sagged, but tourism has provided a moderate stability to the country. Today the tourist industry accountsfor almost two-thirds of the country’s gross national product.

The Islands of the Bahamas gained independence from Great Britainon July 10, 1973, but the nation remains a loyal member of the British Commonwealth.

Arrival and Location BriefingMore than 1.3 million Americans make the short hop to these very flatislands by plane, cruise ship, jetfoil, ferry, private yacht, sailboat, oreven speedboat; the islands attract more American tourists than anyother place in the Caribbean/Atlantic region. Two destinations drawmost of them: Freeport/Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island, which is 70miles from Palm Beach, Florida; and Nassau/Paradise Island, lyingsomewhat deeper among the islands, but still a short flight from Miamior Ft. Lauderdale. Nassau is actually located on New Providence Island,though this name is seldom used in stateside advertising. Two bridgesconnect it to Paradise Island.

The other Bahamian islands are referred to collectively as either theOut Islands or the Family Islands, but each has its own individualname. The islands extend in an almost 700-mile arc from a line extend-


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Columbus (or some sayPonce de León) isbelieved to have lookedat the shallow sea sur-rounding the first landhe saw in the NewWorld and said bajamar (meaning “lowwater” or “shallow sea”),thus giving the name tothese 700-plus islandsof low-lying land andshallow sea. TheSpanish paid littleattention to theseislands after discover-ing them, but the namestuck.

ing north of Palm Beach to the eastern tip of Cuba. The most well-known of these islands are: (1) Abaco, which has its own smallerislands; (2) Bimini, just 48 miles from Ft. Lauderdale; (3) Eleutheraand Harbour Island; (4) Andros, larger than all but four other islandsin the Caribbean, but less visited; and (5) Exuma, divided into twomajor islands and more than 300 tiny cays and islets. Three of theseisland-entities are also referred to in the plural (the Abacos, theExumas, and the Biminis) when one wishes to put emphasis on themany islands that make up a group.

Travel counselors should become familiar with these and other OutIslands, assuming they are already familiar with Freeport and Nassau.Many clients have heard of the “big two” but may know little of thespecial places on the other islands.

Grand Bahama Island and Nassau/Paradise Island welcome the big jetsfrom colder climes, while many of the major Out Islands have flightsfrom various Florida cities and the others have flights from Nassau.Ocean travel from Palm Beach to Grand Bahama was afforded by a jet-foil service at the time of writing; the trip takes two hours each waywith two departures daily in each direction. Other ship lines have con-nected Miami and Ft. Lauderdale to Grand Bahama in the past. Be sureto check at the time of booking.

Local TransportationThe two major destinations and all of the Out Islands have service fromNassau on Bahamasair. However, clients who are visiting more than oneOut Island will most likely have to use Nassau as a hub. Depending onthe number of clients and their budget, charter planes are an option.Private and charter aircraft are common means of transport.

The other method of public transportation between islands is by mailboat. Mail boats primarily transport mail and cargo to the smaller islandsof the country, but they also provide Bahamians a means of transporta-tion that is less expensive than flying. They are not built for passengercomfort. Trips last from 4 to 18 hours, and the majority are overnight.A cabin bunk costs only $5 to $10 extra, but many travelers prefer to lieon deck. Crossings can be rough and the schedule is subject to change;mail boats are for adventurous clients who have flexible plans and astrong constitution. Mail boats generally leave from Nassau once a week.Usually the traveler must return through Nassau, though there are a fewroutes that make multiple stops at the southernmost islands.

Mail boats should not be confused with the small ferries and taxi-boats


that take people for short trips between nearby islands. The most popu-lar are between

• Nassau dock and Paradise Island. The trip takes just a couple of min-utes and is most convenient for those who don’t want to walk all theway to the bridges or take a taxi.

• Harbour Island and the northern tip of Eleuthera.

• Marsh Harbour or Treasure Cay on Great Abaco and Elbow Cay,Man-O’-War Cay, Great Guana Cay, and Green Turtle Cay.

The schedules of other ferries and taxi-boats are more informal, on anas-needed basis.

Bus service runs the length of Grand Bahama Island but is somewhatlimited to and from the East End. Service between Freeport andLucaya is frequent. Jitneys serve all of New Providence Island and runvery frequently between Cable Beach and Nassau. On the Out Islands,bus service is very limited and most travel is done by taxi, though bikesand mopeds are other options on the Out Islands with less traffic. (Seefurther transportation notes under “Selling the Bahamas.”)

Around the Island: Attractions

Freeport/Lucaya, Grand Bahama IslandGrand Bahama Island is a planned tourist and industrial development.Fifty years ago, it was little more than a 100-mile-long, six-mile-wideforested and very lightly populated sandbar. Today it is second only toNassau in importance. Freeport is best known as the main downtownarea complete with resorts, while Lucaya, a few miles away, is referredto as the garden city, an easy blend of residential and developed touristfacilities. Lucaya’s hotels are on or near the beach, while Freeport’shotels are near shopping and golf courses and are a short drive fromthe beach.

Freeport’s International Bazaar and Port Lucaya shopping centersare two of the island’s prime attractions. Four major golf courses andone major gambling casino are big draws for many visitors. A secondcasino was scheduled to open at the time of writing. The beach, golf,shopping, a bit of outdoor music at a plaza in one of the shoppingmalls, and perhaps a visit to the casino round out most visitors’ days.

West End gives a bit of the flavor of the island’s predevelopment history. Visitors taking a tour or drive of the area will see island homes,


a road lined with conch shells, blowholes, and the yachts and schoonerssailing to and from Florida. The East End of the island is a muchlonger section. Here the nature lover can indulge in hikes, caves, anddeserted beaches at Lucayan National Park or travel to the far tip ofthe island and offshore cays. Those who enjoy botany will want to visitthe Garden of the Groves and the Rand Nature Center, which arecloser to Freeport. One operator conducts an adventure-safari tour ofthe East End.

Nassau/Paradise IslandThe Bahamas’ prime attractions are its capital, Nassau, which wasfounded in the late 1600s, connected by bridge to dazzling ParadiseIsland, which was converted from a small island of backwater farmsinto a tourist paradise. Nassau/Paradise Island boasts beaches, resorts,casinos, shopping, and nightlife; but it also has historical attractions,stately mansions, and colonial government buildings with an island flavor (the Parliament Building is pink.).

Most travelers stay in one of two major resort areas: Cable Beach, onNew Providence Island, and Paradise Island. Cable Beach beginsabout three miles west of Nassau. This three-mile-long beach containsfive luxury-class, self-contained resorts, including the Crystal PalaceCasino, and a handful of other first-class to moderate hotels at itsfringe. Breezes and Sandals (the most deluxe resort in its chain) are two all-inclusive resorts along Cable Beach, while the Marriott, Radisson,and others are interconnected or within easy reach of one another, cre-ating one continuous vacation strip. The airport is only minutes awayfrom the Cable Beach area.

Known as Hog Island until development began in the 1950s, ParadiseIsland is a four-mile-long, 685-acre island developed almost exclusivelyas a vacation mecca. It lies 600 feet off the northern shore of Nassauand is connected by bridge. High-rise resorts, beautiful beaches, andlush foliage form a Disneyesque atmosphere of cultivated luxury.Among its 10-plus hotels are a Club Med (tennis is a specialty), an all-inclusive, and the Ocean Club, one of the most luxurious and exclusiveproperties in the Bahamas.

Dominating Paradise Island and all of its hotel properties is theAtlantis, which is not only a 2,300-room megaresort but also one ofNassau/Paradise Island’s biggest tourist sights, even for those not stay-ing here. It contains 38 restaurants and lounges, the largest ballroomand casino (brand new) in the Caribbean, and numerous swimmingpools and lagoons, capped off by Waterscape, one of the largest tropicalmarine habitats in the world. Waterscape consists of 11 exhibit lagoons,


For years the island offNassau’s coast wasused strictly for agricul-ture and was called HogIsland. The owner of theisland, HuntingtonHartford, millionaireA&P supermarketowner, changed itsname to ParadiseIsland when he decidedto develop it into aresort island for tourists.

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including those with sharks, predators, stingrays, turtles, and 50,000individual animals and fish. Other outdoor land-based exhibits are set onthe grounds. The Atlantis seems more like a theme park than a hotel.Most first-time visitors will want to see this destination, even those stay-ing on Cable Beach.

Everyone will want to see the major cultural sight on Paradise Island,The Cloisters, a little bit of medieval Europe in Paradise. This 13th-century structure was built in France by Augustinian monks. It was dis-assembled and shipped to the United States in the 1920s; whenParadise Island was being developed in the 1960s, it was reconstructedthere. The Dolphin Experience can be enjoyed on a boat excursion toa cay on Paradise Island. Visitors can opt to swim with the bottle-noseddolphins or play with them in shallow water.

The Bahamas’ heart and hub, Nassau, lies in between Paradise Island andCable Beach. It is both the governmental and commercial center of thecountry and holds most of the historic and cultural tourist sights. Nassaucan easily be toured on foot. Prince George’s Wharf, where the cruiseships dock, and Bay Street, the main thoroughfare and shopping street,are a good beginning. The Straw Market burned and is being rebuilt.The British influence on Nassau’s past is evident in Rawson Square andParliament Square, where strollers can see the colorful flamingo-pinkgovernment buildings, the octagonal Public Library that was once aprison, and the imposing Government House. A surrey or horse-drawncarriage is a time-honored way to clip-clop through the city streets.

Almost everyone walks up the 66 steps of the Queen’s Staircase toFort Fincastle, shaped like the bow of a ship, and its 125-foot watertower, which affords great views from the highest spot on the island.Another major cultural sight is Fort Charlotte, by far the largest fortin the Bahamas. (Visitors will probably want to take a taxi rather thanwalk to it.) Its dungeons, underground passageways, and cannons cre-ate an eerie experience when seen in relative solitude, but its locationalone—on a hill commanding a view of the harbor, the town, andParadise Island—makes it worth the trip. Those staying on the island aweek will want to make at least two major trips to Nassau, spendinghalf the day sightseeing, shopping, and lunching and spending theother half at the beach or a pool. The town is so accessible that some will stop in daily.

Nassau is also the third major hotel location. It caters primarily to thosewho like to be in the cultural center of a destination, to those whoeschew large resorts, or to those on a tight budget. Built long beforethe other resorts, the stately and recently renovated British ColonialHilton is ideal for business travelers. It is at the edge of town and has


been a mainstay for decades. A Holiday Inn has recently opened. Othersmall budget properties and one or two very upscale hotels dot the sidestreets and the shore leading toward Cable Beach.

A circle tour of New Providence takes about two hours (not countingstops), but clients will want to make a leisurely day of it. Among themost recognizable sights from videos and brochures are the marchingflamingos and lush foliage at Ardastra Gardens. Other botanical gar-dens, stately colonial homes, and beachscapes make for a beautifuldrive. A handful of other hotels, some very private and luxurious, aresituated around the island.

The AbacosThe Abacos, directly east of Palm Beach, Florida, are the northernmostof the Out Islands. This 100-mile chain is ideal for most water sports,but especially for sailing and yachting. The islands’ most special attri-butes, however, are the gem-like towns and differing histories of the littleislands off Great Abaco (AB uh ko) Island, the largest island. Someislanders are still boatbuilders, following the tradition of the first settlers.Because the islands are at the same latitude as southern Florida, you mustremember that they can get somewhat cool in the middle of winter.

Two of the three commercial airports are on Great Abaco, and one ison Walker’s Cay, a smaller cay at the northern tip of the chain.

• Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco receives the most air traffic and isthe major sailing harbor in the islands. It can also be a base from whichto explore the marshes, bird and turtle habitats, and tiny fishing vil-lages of the southern part of the island, as well as the towns and shoresof the northern part of the island and the highway bridge that leads toLittle Abaco Island. Hotels in Marsh Harbour tend to be small,except for one or two, and are geared toward yachtsmen and the mari-na set. Beaches do not compare with others in the Bahamas, and thetown has a commercial feel, similar to a Florida town of 50 years ago.

• Treasure Cay is 27 miles north of Marsh Harbour and also receivesflights from Nassau and Florida. Years ago, a natural sand bridgeconnected Treasure Cay to Great Abaco, so it is not actually a sepa-rate island. It has one large resort—Treasure Cay Hotel Resort &Marina—and a few houses and commercial establishments. TreasureCay can also be used as a base to see the island or as a jumping-offpoint to nearby cays. For some time, the resort complex boasted theonly major golf course in the Out Islands. There is now anothercourse at the new five-star resort on Exuma.


• Walker’s Cay, at the very northern tip of the Abacos, is not connected by road to any other island. Most flights arrive heredirectly from Florida for fishing vacations.

Most people come to the Abacos to experience the fairy-tale settingsof the barrier cays off the eastern shore of Great Abaco. Motorlaunches go to these cays daily, sometimes twice or three times a day.The trip takes 20 to 60 minutes. The islands can be visited on daytrips, but staying for three or four nights can transport the visitorback in time. There are four major barrier cays.

• Elbow Cay has a candy-cane striped lighthouse, an almost landlockedharbor, and the colonial mini-village of Hope Town. “Colonial” hereharkens back to picturesque New England villages of 200 years ago,when Loyalists left America to find a new life in the Bahamas. ElbowCay is sometimes called “Nantucket under the palms.” The island hasno cars, except for a few emergency vehicles. Those staying overnightcan choose from charming small hotels, cottages, or villas.

• Man-O’-War Cay is smaller in population and has fewer hotels thanElbow. During the Revolutionary War, it also attracted Loyalists, butthey had more of a strict Puritan bent. Alcohol is not sold on theisland, and modesty in dress and bathing attire is observed. As theleading boat-building center in the islands, Man-O’-War Cay is quite prosperous.

• Great Guana Cay also has a tiny population descended from NewEnglanders, and its houses, stores, and churches reflect their influ-

ence. The main attraction is its seven-mile-long beach,which is used as a picnic getaway by day visitors fromGreat Abaco and passing cruise ships as well. The cay hastwo small resort hotels.

• Green Turtle Cay vies with Elbow Cay as the most popular.The town of New Plymouth has New England houses, pas-tel cottages, and colorful flower gardens with white picketfences. The ambiance has an aesthetic serenity that haschanged little during the past 50 years; it reminds many visi-tors of the Key West of decades past. The Green Turtle Clubis one of the most well-known hostelries in the Bahamas;there are also other inns and cottages. Closest access is byferry from Treasure Cay rather than Marsh Harbour.

EleutheraEleuthera (ih LOO thuh ruh) is one island divided into three major


Parliament Street in New Plymouth

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destinations: Harbour Island, Governour’s Harbour, and Rock Sound.Throughout the day, taxi-boats travel among them; the trip takes only 5to 10 minutes. Much of what was said about the colonial cays of theAbacos is also true of Harbour Island. Dunmore Town, with its pas-tel-colored houses and old churches, is best described as a BahamianCape Cod. It also boasts magnificent pink-sand beaches and hotels thatare like resorts but still small enough to provide the personal touch.Harbour Island’s beach has the most resort accommodations of anylocation in the Out Islands. Most travel is done on foot or by golf cart.Harbour Island has no airport. Visitors usually fly into the NorthEleuthera airport and take a boat from there.

Eleuthera is a 100-mile-long, two- to three-mile-wide strip of desertedbeaches, steep cliffs, and tiny towns. Hotels are mostly small and aresprinkled the length of the island rather than concentrated in one area.The feel is “real Caribbean,” the way it may have been 50 years ago.

At the northern tip of the island, away from Harbour Island, is a smallcay, Spanish Wells. It is populated almost solely by the prosperous andvery private descendants of the settlers who came more than 200 yearsago. One or two small lodgings are available; taxi-boats connect the caywith the main island.

A few miles south of Eleuthera’s northern tip on the Queen’s Highwayis the Glass Window, the island’s most beautiful natural sight. Herethe land narrows so that the two sides of the ocean almost converge.Adding to the spectacular show is the contrast of the dark blue crashingwaves of the Atlantic on the east and the calm waters and fluorescentgreenish hue of the inner sea just a few feet away.

Governor’s Harbour at mid-island is the major town and historicalcenter of Eleuthera; this is where the original colonists shipwrecked atCupid’s Cay in the 1600s. The Governor’s Harbour airport is sevenmiles to the north. Southern Eleuthera’s airport is at the town of RockSound. A few upscale and secluded resorts, tiny artist colonies, andfishing villages dot the southern half of the island.

The ExumasThe Exumas, an archipelago of 365 islands, begin less than 40 milessoutheast of Nassau and stretch for 130 miles. Great Exuma (eks ZOO muh) Island and Little Exuma Island, which are connected by bridge, are accessible by flights into the capital, GeorgeTown. Across from the capital is elongated Stocking Island. The pro-tected water creates one of the Caribbean’s most perfect harbors.


All other cays in the Exumas are visited by private vessels and tourboats. The Exumas boast the natural enchantment of uninhabited isles,wild beaches, secluded coves and harbors, and giant iguanas and exoticbirds, especially in Exuma Cays National Land and Sea Park. BesidesGeorge Town, the two major islands have sleepy little towns that havenot lost their “South Seas” island character. The new Four SeasonsResort, scheduled to open November 2001, is likely to rank as one ofthe best in the Bahamas and perhaps all of the Caribbean. Staniel Cayand Sampson Cay halfway up the archipelago have secluded hotelresorts accessible only by boat and private aircraft.

Andros IslandAndros (AN dross), the fifth-largest island in the Caribbean, lies just 30miles west of Nassau and little more than 100 miles from Miami. It isby far the largest of the Bahamian islands—100 miles long and 40 mileswide—but much of it is unexplored. Deep channels cut the island intothree or four sections, and four airports support scheduled and privateor charter aircraft. The 140-mile-long Andros Barrier Reef is one ofthe world’s largest and is popular almost exclusively with divers andfishermen. The reef wall drops off thousands of feet into the TOTO(Tongue of the Ocean) between the islands. Jacques Cousteau led amajor expedition to explore the island’s unique geological formation ofunderwater cave systems, called blue holes.

Many consider Andros the bonefishing capital of the world, thoughother Bahamian islands might argue with that designation. Towns arescattered along its east coast, while the interior and west coast arelargely forest and mangroves, lakes, and creeks. Adventurous travelerswill want to search for rare plants, animals, unexplored blue holes,caves, and buried pirate treasure. Stops to see the creations at theAndrosia Batik Works and the unique straw basket crafts of theSeminole Indians are also a must.

Bimini IslandsOne of the smallest of the major Out Islands groups, the Biminis (BIH mih neez) are also the closest to the United States, lying 50 milesdue east of Miami. Flight arrivals come mainly from Florida rather thanthe rest of the Bahamas, but many visitors come by boat. Big-gamefishing in the Gulf Stream between Florida and the Bahamas providesthe island with its reputation as one of the prime fishing capitals of theworld. Many championship fishing tournaments are held during theyear. Another of the Biminis’ attractions is the cottage of ErnestHemingway, who made this his outpost in the 1930s; his memorabiliaare on display.


George Washington,who called theBahamas the “isles ofperpetual June,” wasone of the thousandsof prominent Americanvisitors to first enjoythe islands His descrip-tion stuck for manyyears, and the islandswere often called the“Isles of June.”

Almost 200 years later,Ernest Hemingwayfound a temporaryhome in these “islandsin the (Gulf) Stream,” “ . . . with the greenlight of water over thefloury white sand”—Bimini.

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The Other Out Islands/Family IslandsAs you head south, the islands tend to become less populated and lessfrequently visited. In the north, the islands tend to get more rain andbe more lush; in the south, they are drier and almost desert-like inplaces. Like all of the Out Islands, they tend to be very flat, but onsome of them occasional cliffs rise along the sea. From north to south,the islands include the following.

• The Berry Islands are a string of small cays northwest of Nassau.Some are privately owned; some are owned by cruise lines for their“private island picnics”; others are wildlife sanctuaries; still others areopen for picnicking by passing yachts.

• Cat Island is a relatively undiscovered sliver of barrier island muchlike its neighbors; it is 50 miles long and two miles wide. Ruinedplantations, tiny towns, and churches with surprising histories areready for exploration. However, the island primarily appeals to diversand water lovers.

• San Salvador’s shape is somewhat unique among the Out Islands inthat it is more circular than elongated. A circle trip allows visitors tosee all the key spots on the island. These include the ColumbusMonument, the Olympic Games Monument (marking the spotwhere the flame arrived in the Americas for the 1968 Olympics inMexico City), the Chicago Herald Monument (erected by aChicago newspaper for the Columbian Exposition in 1892), andruins of plantations and lighthouses. Most experts agree thatColumbus’s first landfall in the New World was at San Salvador;needless to say, this is a keystone of the island’s fame. DiscoveryDay, on October 12, is the island’s major holiday and celebration.There are few accommodations here, but a Club Med brings in mostof the island’s hotel stays.

• Long Island is 60 miles long and averages one and a half miles inwidth. It has two particularly fine resorts and other scattered lodgings. Devotees feel that its diving, fishing, and beaches are better than anywhere else. Cliffs on one side of the island add a bitof different topography.

• Great Inagua Island and Little Inagua Island are the southernmostislands in the chain. Their principal lure is Inagua National Park andits ecosystem, though they do have their share of shipwrecks and blueholes for divers to explore. Tens of thousands of pink flamingos, wildhorses and donkeys, and rare species of green turtles are some of theInaguas’ fauna. The other main attraction is Great Inagua’s salt ponds


and salt mountains, which enable the Morton Company to supply agood part of North America. A few guesthouses provide lodging.

• A few other inhabited cays and islets in the region offer a rare guest-house or family that puts up adventurous recluses who show up ontheir shores.

What’s Special about the Bahamas?The Bahamas’ diversity makes it a special destination. The two “bigislands” have some of the best golf courses, casinos, resorts, andnightlife in the Caribbean, and they also provide opportunities forgood diving, snorkeling, and beachcombing. The Out Islands—whichcompete with their neighboring islands, the Turks and Caicos Islandsand the Cayman Islands, for some of the best diving in NorthAmerica—are havens for those desiring peace and tranquillity.

Swimming with dolphins is an attraction off Paradise Island; theDolphin Experience, run by UNEXSO (Underwater Explorers Society),is offered in Grand Bahama. The full-day safari-adventure tour of theEast End of Grand Bahama, which combines jeep travel, boating, caving, swimming, snorkeling, and hiking through forest and beach,reaches remote parts of the island.

The range of destinations in the Bahamas is extensive. Some OutIslands have the proverbial “stranded on a desert island” feel; othersresemble colonial towns on Cape Cod. At the same time, most of themwill make Americans feel right at home. They’re close to the UnitedStates, and the people are accustomed to visitors.

Island CultureThe people of the Bahamas are a mixture of descendants of 18th-centuryAmerican Loyalists, Bermudian pilgrims, and disenfranchised Africanslaves and freemen. More than 98 percent of Bahamians are literate. Theproximity of the country to the United States has lent itself to importanteconomic, historical, and tourist ties between the two countries.Bahamian people have an air of sophistication.

The Bahamian language is English, and the country’s British ties arereflected in its architecture, in sports such as cricket, and in its dress,religion, and customs. “Bush medicine,” much of it derived fromAfrican traditions, is practiced on most islands. Use of indigenousplants, such as aloe vera, has been shown to remedy many ailments.


In the realm of seafood, conch is king and comes in conch salads,conch chowder, cracked conch (batter fried), and conch burgers.Grouper and rock lobster are also favorites. Peas and rice is the ubiqui-tous accompanying dish, and local vegetables such as cassava, okra, andsweet potato often join it. The local beer is Kalik.

A number of artists and craftspeople, both foreign and local, have gal-leries and shops on the two major islands. The artisans scattered abouton the Out Islands tend to be nonconformists who may even be thehighlight of a trip. The Junkanoo spirit and Goombay music (see“Celebrations and Special Events”) can be found whenever there is acelebration or party.

Clients interested in local culture should be informed of the People toPeople Program, in which local Bahamians host visitors for a chat, ameal, or an event, as time and interest permits.

Celebrations and Special EventsJunkanoo is a Bahamian word that spells all-out-fun. Junkanoo cele-brates the end of the old year and the beginning of the new. InNassau, traditional parades begin at 2 A.M. on December 26 (BoxingDay) and on New Year’s Day; they continue all day, pulsing to anAfrican beat. Cowbells, goatskin drums, whistles, bells, bugles, andhorns accompany the parade of elaborately costumed participants,“rushin” (a two-step-forward, one-step-back movement) through thestreets of downtown Nassau.

Like Rio’s Carnaval competition, prizes are awarded each year for themost elaborate or unusual Junkanoo costumes, the best music, and thebest performances. Competition is fierce and some locals work on theircostumes year-round. Freeport’s Junkanoo festival begins on NewYear’s Day at 6:00 P.M. Smaller but no less exuberant parades are heldon Bimini, Eleuthera, and Abaco.

Each Out Island has its own special events, including:

• the Pineapple Festival in Eleuthera (June)

• the Crab Festival in Andros (June)

• numerous fishing tournaments and Regatta Time in the Abacos (July)

• the National Out Island and Cruising Regattas in the Exumas

• fishing tournaments in the Biminis


Dining and EntertainmentRestaurants in the Bahamas include quite a variety: top-of-the-line emporiums, mostly found in the big hotels; atmospheric and upscalelocal spots, most of which are members of the Real-Taste-of-the-Bahamasprogram (which ensures that they use local ingredients and meet standards in food and service); fast-food spots on the two main islands;and local diners on the Out Islands. The Graycliff in Nassau is one of themost renowned restaurants in the Bahamas and in all of the Caribbean.

Grand Bahama Island and Nassau/Paradise Island, in particular, rankwith the leading nightlife capitals of the Caribbean. Lavish Vegas-classshows, numerous discothèques and bars catering to tourists andBahamians alike, and plenty of outdoor entertainment fill the nighthours, to say nothing of the two major casinos on each island. On theOut Islands, the story is quite different. The larger tourist settlementsat Harbour Island, Marsh Harbour, and Green Turtle Cay have popularbars and hangouts. In other locations, most of the nightlife is what visi-tors themselves devise, including star-gazing (of the heavenly, ratherthan Hollywood, variety).

Cruise CallNassau/Paradise Island is the most visited cruise port in theCaribbean/Atlantic area. Several three- and four-day cruises out ofsouth Florida make it an overnight stop, adding to its carnival-like

atmosphere and great variety of shops, tours, and services.Many longer-itinerary ships also stop here. Arrivals can walkfrom the dock to almost all of Nassau’s historic sites, the strawmarket, and Bay Street shops. A taxi-boat takes them in minutes to Paradise Island, where they can walk to theAtlantis Hotel and Casino and to paradisiacal beaches.Jitneys take them to the Cable Beach area.

Grand Bahama Island also gets a number of cruise calls,almost exclusively from the three- to four-day market.Most arrivals are content to shop, gamble, and enjoy theentertainment of Freeport/Lucaya, but trips to theremote parts of the island, dolphin-watching tours, andother sea activities are also popular.

Selling the Bahamas There are “two Bahamas”: the Bahamas of the casinos, high-riseresorts, and nightlife of Nassau/Paradise Island and Grand Bahama


Marina, Grand BahamaCourtesy of The Islands of

the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism

Island; and the Bahamas of the Out Islands, with deserted beaches,gingerbread buildings, and peaceful fishing settlements where thearrival of the mail boat is the big event of the day.

Timid clients who are making their first trip into international waters willfeel quite at home on Cable Beach, Paradise Island, or Freeport/ Lucaya.“Classic” honeymooners (including those on second honeymoons oranniversary trips) will be in ecstasy at the right hotel on romanticHarbour Island. However, many honeymooners don’t fit the popularimage and will prefer the “action” of Nassau and Grand Bahama.

Nature lovers can find bird sanctuaries and national parks. About the only travelers who should not be sent to the Bahamas are thosewho have “been there, done that” and want something more exotic(and refuse to consider the Out Islands), and those who want mountain landscapes.

There are a number of islands in the Bahamas, but they are easily accessi-ble. Clients staying on Paradise Island may appreciate your arranging aseaplane flight from Ft. Lauderdale to Paradise Island if Ft. Lauderdale isconvenient. This avoids the longer transfer (sometimes in busy traffic) toParadise Island from Nassau International airport, and your clients willfeel as though they are landing in the backyard of their hotel. This flightwill launch a trip with the right touch, especially for long weekenders.Check for services from other Florida cities at the time of booking.

The flight from Florida to North Eleuthera, taxi transfer to the dock,taxi-boat to Harbour Island, and transfer to the hotel may sound like alot of movement, but it is all accomplished in minutes. The same can besaid for the Abacos with the right planning. Clients do not have to waitfor the scheduled ferry—many hotels will pick them up at the dock.

Island Secrets The Islands of the Bahamas are alive with hidden gems—cays to beexplored by rented boat; nature areas and bird sanctuaries; artists andindividualists who long ago shunned the busy commercialism of the bigcity for a simpler, Gauguinesque life among the palms and local popu-lace. One such person is Gloria Patience, the Shark Lady, who in herearly 80s was still welcoming visitors to her home in the Exumas. Herhome is an informal museum of island memorabilia, china, and miscel-lany made from the remains of the hundreds of sharks she has caught.

On the last Friday of each month, from January to August, theGovernor General’s wife hosts a People to People Tea Party at


Government House in Nassau. Guests chat with volunteers and enjoysweet cakes and tea, while local artists often present entertainment. Anyvisitor interested in local culture and people is invited to attend.

Key Points about the Bahamas

Nassau/Paradise Island• Historic sights

• Cable Beach

• Atlantis Hotel

Freeport/Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island• Casino and golf

• Island shopping markets

Out Islands• The Abacos: two major islands and five important cays

• Harbour Island/Eleuthera

• The Exumas

• Andros Island

• The Biminis

• Other Out Islands

For those who want to be specialists in the Islands of the Bahamas, aself-study guide and program are available. Call the Bahamas TourismInstitute at 1-888-BTI-DESK for information.

For More InformationBahamas Tourist Office150 E. 52nd Street–28th FloorNew York, NY 10022Phone: 1-800-4BAHAMAS or 800-422-4262 for travel agents’brochure requests1-800-224-2627 for consumer brochure requests and information1-800-823-3136 or 212-758-2777 other inquiriesFax: 212-753-6531E-Mail: Call to get specific e-mail addresses of personnel or see Web.Web site: www.bahamas.com


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Geographically, the Turks and Caicos (KAY kos) Islands (TCI) canbe considered an eastern extension of the chain of the Islands of

the Bahamas. They form a string of more than 40 islands and cays. Theislands’ ambiance and attitude are also an extension of the relaxed, get-away-from-it-all mood of their neighbors, the Bahamian OutIslands. However, that’s where the similarities end. The Turks andCaicos Islands have a different history, some very special, secluded luxury resorts, and easy accessibility from Miami.

The population is small, cruise ships don’t call, and high-rises arebanned. Miles of sand and secluded beaches, coves, and cays, surrounded by one of the longest coral reefs in the world, delightadventuresome beachcombers, diving enthusiasts, and jet-setters alike.

Historical BackgroundRecent theories and the pattern of Atlantic currents have fostered thenotion that it may have been one of the Turks and Caicos Islands thatColumbus first sighted in 1492. Regardless, the islands’ history wassimilar to that of the Bahamas for the first few hundred years after discovery. The islands were left alone except for the occasional Spanishgalleon, wrecked supply ship, or marauding pirate vessel. British subjects, by way of Bermuda, began to colonize the islands in the late1600s, bringing slaves to work the salt plantations and other enterprises. As in the Bahamas, British Loyalists emigrated to theislands during the American Revolution.

Unlike the Bahamas, however, the Turks and Caicos Islands enduredSpanish and French invasions until finally coming under British controlpermanently in the late 1700s. They were made part of the Bahamasand remained so for decades, but the government in Nassau rankledthese independent islanders, who felt little connection to their largerand faraway neighbor. Because the Turks and Caicos Islands were onthe regular shipping route between Great Britain and Jamaica, GrandTurk was often the first stop sailors made after their long Atlantic

© The Travel Institute The Atlantic: Turks and Caicos Islands • 95

Turks andCaicos Islands

Fast FactsLand Area166 square miles, divided among 5major islands, 3 minor ones, and 40small cays

Population23,000

CapitalCockburn Town, Grand Turk

LanguagesEnglish

Time ZoneUTC -5 or EST. They do observe day-light-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyU.S. dollar


voyage. This gave the islands more of an allegiance to Jamaica, and theBritish eventually placed them under that island’s jurisdiction in 1874.

When Jamaica became independent in 1962, the islands were put backunder loose Bahamian administration. But when the Bahamas gainedindependence, TCI opted to remain a British Crown colony and laterbecame a dependent territory. The country is ruled by both a governorappointed by the queen and its own elected constitutional ministers.Tourism has only really begun to burgeon in the last few years, but theislands hope to keep it under careful control.

Arrival and Location BriefingThe Turks consist of a major island, Grand Turk, which holds thecountry’s capital, Cockburn Town (KO burn town), and the largestpopulation, and Salt Cay, a smaller and much quieter island to thesouth. The 22-mile-wide, 7,000-foot-deep Columbus Passage separatesthe Turks from the Caicos group of islands to the west.

The Turks have a handful of hotels, but most tourists visit the majorCaicos island of Providenciales (prah vih den see AH lis) (known locally asProvo [PRO vo]) and the small cays off its shores. Provo has the largestairport, which accepts wide-body jets, and receives the bulk of internation-al traffic. Of the other islands of the Caicos (North Caicos, South Caicos,East Caicos, West Caicos, and Middle Caicos), only North Caicos, nearProvo, has substantial numbers of hotel rooms. Some islands are uninhab-ited and are very popular for day sails to totally secluded beaches.

There are two flights a day from Miami to Provo, which bring most ofthe northerners to the islands. The airlines of nearby island countriesalso have occasional flights. In season, charters operate from selectedcities in the Northeast. Local airlines operate among the islands, withan occasional flight to Fort Lauderdale. Each island has its own landingstrip for local flights or charters.

Local TransportationThough a few private bus lines operate, most travel is done by taxi,rental car, motor scooter, or bike. The taxi fare from the airport tohotels along the main beach is about $15. Private ferries sometimes runbetween islands, but schedules change and clients will have to checkupon arrival. Otherwise, they will need to hire a private boat.

InterIsland, SkyKing, and Turks & Caicos Airways offer island-hoppingprograms, which allow travelers to stop among the six major islandsovernight or even for a few hours at a much lower rate than if they paid


for individual flights. As in the Bahamas, air charters go to neighboringislands or offer flightseeing for families and small groups. Prices are rel-atively reasonable.

Around the Islands: Attractions

Providenciales (Provo)Provo contains 40 percent (6,000) of the population of the Turks andCaicos Islands and is the country’s main tourist destination. All jetflights land here. Most tourist activities and hotels run along the milesof beach northeast of the airport and the populated area in the centerof the island. Even though Provo is the main hub of the Turks andCaicos Islands, it remains a relaxing and peaceful place.

The first large and inclusive resorts only began opening in the early1990s, with the exception of Club Med Turkoise, considered a jewel ofthe chain’s North American clubs for almost two decades now. Nearbyis the elite Ocean Club. The all-inclusive Beaches (a Sandals hotel)opened in 1999. Other resorts will be opening in the near future alongthe 12 miles of white-sand beaches that ring Provo’s northeast coast.

Snorkeling, beachcombing, water sports, and sheer relaxation are theorder of the day, but first-timers usually drop in at the JoJo DolphinProject and the world’s only conch farm at the Island Sea Center. Acasino operates at the Allegro, the island’s other large facility, and theProvo Golf Club’s 72-hole course is one of the Caribbean’s newest.The island’s scattered towns are still genuine Caribbean villages, theirambiance having changed little, even as tourism begins to grow.

A number of tiny cays between Provo and North Caicos are privatelyowned; two in particular, Parrot Cay and Pine Cay, hold very exclu-sive and secluded resorts.

The Other CaicosOf the five other major islands in the Caicos chain, two are uninhabited(East and West Caicos), but their secluded beaches and coves make forgreat day trips. North, Middle, and South Caicos tend to have beautifulbeaches on their northern sides and tidal flats to the south.

North Caicos (population 1,300) is the closest major island to Provoand is the lushest island in the group. It has a smattering of accommoda-tions, including one with 28 rooms. Visitors will want to raft out to theCrab Farm and see the flock of flamingos. Other bird refuges, Indianartifacts, and the ruins of plantations can be seen on a tour of the island.


Middle Caicos, the largest island of TCI, has the most dramaticscenery; but it is one of the least developed (with only 10 hotel rooms)and least visited, with a population of just 275. However, many consider it a worthy day trip just to see the Arawak and LucayanIndian artifacts and remains of huge Indian settlements. One recentlyexcavated site contains a Lucayan ball court, unknown elsewhere in theislands. Visitors will also want to see the remains of Loyalist plantations and numerous marshes and inlets that serve as havens fortropical birds. Limestone cliffs and large caves wait to be explored.

South Caicos offers some of the best diving and snorkeling, as well asmiles of deserted and idyllic beaches. The island is the fishing capital ofTCI, with the harvesting of conch, lobster, and other seafood as its mainindustry. Three lodgings, one with 24 rooms, offer accommodations.

The TurksGrand Turk contains the capital, Cockburn Town, and as such is thecommercial and historical center of the islands. It has the second-highest population after Provo. A number of 18th- and 19th-centurylandmark buildings recall the architecture of the Bermudians who camehere during the 1700s. Artifacts of the original Indians also lie scat-tered about the island. Hundreds of donkeys once roamed the island,causing amusing havoc. Most are now in an animal refuge, but someare still free to uphold the old traditions. A dozen small hotels, guest-houses, and apartments cater mainly to the diving crowd, rather thanthe conventional resort vacationer.

Salt Cay, just south of Grand Turk, once produced the mainstay of thecountry’s economy, salt. A handful of two- to eight-room inns areavailable for real getaways.

What’s Special about the Turks and Caicos?Though much smaller in available accommodations and facilities, theTurks and Caicos Islands can hold their own with the Cayman Islands,Bonaire, and other top Caribbean destinations for diving and snorkeling. Underwater visibility often reaches 200 feet, and the islandsare surrounded by one of the world’s largest coral reef systems. Theaquatic environment is in relatively pristine condition, and the govern-ment is striving to keep it intact.

Above water, nature lovers will enjoy the flamingos and giant iguanas thatnow mainly inhabit offshore cays, having been driven off the major islands.


In 1992 the government set aside 33 specific protected areas covering 325square miles of land and sea, including turtle breeding grounds, seabirdsanctuaries, and ecologically essential wetlands. From January to March,thousands of humpback whales cross the Columbus Passage between thetwo island groups. Deep-sea fishing and bonefishing are excellent.

Visitors can tour the main islands by boat or taxi and can tour the uninhabited cays by catamaran or other boat. Most would consider astay on Provo incomplete without one or two boat trips to nearby islets.

Island CultureMany of the citizens of the Turks and Caicos Islands are descendants ofAfricans brought here by Bermudian salt-rakers. More recently,American, British, and European tourists are discovering the islands.Cross-cultural influences are evident: driving is on the left, but the officialcurrency is the U.S. dollar.

The island’s lifestyle is quite casual, so this is one destination wherewearing shorts in town is considered appropriate, even by local residents. However, the lifestyle defined by visitors is casual-chic, asthese are islands generally discovered only by the well traveled.

The music, food, and culture of TCI are similar to neighboring islands.Besides tourism, the country is developing its banking and financialindustries, similar to what the Cayman Islands and the Bahamas have done.

Celebrations and Special EventsA Sailing Regatta is held the last weekend in May, and the Cactus Festtakes place late August/early September.

Dining and EntertainmentAlmost all foodstuffs are imported except for seafood; therefore, diningtends to be expensive. Locally caught or farmed conch and lobster arespecialties. A selection of pasta places, a Chinese restaurant, Mexicaneateries, and even a New York–style deli with espresso and cappuccinocreate some variety among the top Caribbean/Continental-Frenchestablishments. One restaurant offers “Pacific Northwest–style seafoodwith Caribbean flair,” while others sport names such as Hemingway’son the Beach, the Gecko Grille, and Sharkbite Bar & Grill.

Entertainment focuses on small local island bands that play at major


Sometimes the origin ofplace-names deserves abit of explanation.Original settlers of theTurks and CaicosIslands thought that thered flowering head ofthe islands’ cactusreminded them of thered fez worn by Turkishmen; hence the name“Turks.” “Caicos” is aderivation of theSpanish word cayos,meaning small islands.

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hotels and bars and at the Allegro hotel casino. Those who want moreaction can pay to play (and eat and drink) for an evening at the all-inclusive Breezes or Club Med.

Cruise CallMajor cruise ships do not call at TCI, which suits the country just fine.However, a number of live-aboard dive boats are headquartered atGrand Turk and Providenciales. Accommodating 14 to 20 passengers,they spend a week cruising the islands and offer up to five dives a day.

Selling the Turks and Caicos IslandsThe small size of TCI, its lesser renown, and its smaller tourist numbersshould not in any way lessen the image of this destination in yourmind. These islands (and also the Grenadines) appeal to a particularniche market: specifically, those looking for exclusivity and luxuriousaccommodations with utter privacy (unless you have clients so famousthat the paparazzi will find them anywhere). DS Caribbean emphasizesthe more popular attractions and accommodations (although in TCI,even these places have the air of something special). But if you digdeeper, you will find villas and private retreats in out-of-the-way partsof the eight major islands and on small islets and cays. The touristoffice can help you with your research.

Two of the most exclusive spots lie between Provo and North Caicos:Parrot Cay and Pine Cay, an 800-acre private resort. They may be justthe place for that actress who was recently nominated for an Oscar orthe techno-whiz who just went public with his “dot-com” stock.

However, less-affluent adventurers who want both privacy and relax-ation, or those who prefer to do a lot of socializing at one of the all-inclusives, will also be ecstatic with a stay in TCI. And, of course, diverswill be in heaven. Those who get bored can hop one of the twice-dailyflights to Miami.

Island Secret The Turks and Caicos Islands are loaded with hideaways that the average traveler does not know about. This is, in a sense, the essence ofthe destination—finding a spot away from it all. Salt Cay provides per-haps one of the most interesting links to a simpler time. Salt produc-tion was halted only in the early 1960s when Jamaican ties were sev-ered. When the industry stopped, everything was left as it was, frozen


in time. Windmills lie motionless among the Bermudian-style homesthat are still neatly kept. The landmark White House is still owned bythe descendants of salt-rakers and contains original antique furniture.Salt Cay has been nominated for inclusion in the list of UNESCOWorld Heritage Sites.

Key Points about the Turks and Caicos Islands• Providenciales (Provo)

• Grand Turk

• Private cays and secluded resorts

• Diving

• Peace, relaxation, exclusivity

For More InformationTurks and Caicos Islands Tourist Board2715 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Suite 101Fort Lauderdale, FL 33306Phone: 800-241-0824 or 954-568-6588Fax: 954-568-6586E-mail: [email protected] site: www.turksandcaicostourism.com



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Northern Caribbean The northern Caribbean is close to the southern part of the United Statesand easy to get to. It consists of the four major islands of the Greater Antillesand two nearby smaller island groups. Cuba is not covered in the main partof the text, but general information is given in the last unit.

Seven-day cruises from Florida ports often stop at these islands. Many cruiselines add an itinerary with the designation Western Caribbean, which usuallycombines the Cayman Islands, Jamaica, and one other port of call with theYucatán Coast of Mexico (Cancún or Cozumel). This course, however, placesthe Cayman Islands and Jamaica in this Northern Caribbean section, andCancún and Cozumel, Mexico, in the last section called Western Caribbeanand the Coast of Latin America.

From west to east, the island chapters are

■ Cayman Islands

■ Jamaica

■ Haiti

■ Dominican Republic

■ Puerto Rico

■ U.S. Virgin Islands

■ British Virgin Islands

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Translucent water, abundant marine life, fascinating shipwrecks, wind-ing sea tunnels, and a brilliantly colored reef wall plunging to depths

of 6,000 feet make the Cayman Islands an underwater paradise, one thatwoos and challenges experienced divers and beginners alike. A sophisti-cated tourism and diving infrastructure adds to the islands’ appeal. Infact, the Caymans are one of the Caribbean’s top diving destinations,with one-third of the arrivals being underwater devotees. But the islands’perfect beaches, the availability of every type of water and sand sport, andtheir modern, first-class resorts bring plenty of other visitors.

And then there are the banks, 571 of them at last count. Trusts handling American, Canadian, and worldwide financial operations formore than 45,000 companies and individuals flourish due to theislands’ permissive tax and regulatory policies. The islands rank in thetop 10 among the world’s financial centers. This translates into a largeamount of travel being done for business purposes, though it’s usuallycombined with pleasure as well. More important to the leisure traveleris that the islands’ high standard of living also means high standards ofservice and amenities—with prices to match. The Cayman Islands arenot geared to the budget traveler.

Cayman Islanders are known for their friendliness and hospitality, andcrime is very low (on the two smaller islands it is almost nonexistent).Using the same common sense they would at home, visitors can walkabout at almost any time of day or night and feel safe. The great disparity of rich and poor found in many other places is far less notice-able here. Lifestyles are akin to that of an affluent Florida key or thesuburb of a big American city—including satellite dishes and cellphones—with the added bonuses of a seven-mile-long beach andturquoise waters.

Historical BackgroundDue to the Cayman Islands’ relatively small size and somewhat isolatedlocation, they were uninhabited when Columbus first arrived, and werenot deemed as important as other islands. The vast numbers of turtlesin surrounding waters led the Discoverer to first name the islands LasTortugas (the Turtles). Great plantations were not established, and

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: Cayman Islands • 105

Cayman Islands

Fast FactsLand Area103 square miles

Grand Cayman: 78 square milesCayman Brac: 15 square milesLittle Cayman: 10 square miles

Population40,000

CapitalGeorge Town, Grand Cayman

LanguagesEnglish

Time ZoneUTC -5 or EST. They do not observedaylight-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyCayman dollar. The Cayman dollar isworth approximately $1.25 in U.S. dollars (USD). Turning that around,$1.00 USD is worth 80 Cayman cents.

Electricity110 volts, 60 cycles AC, same as U.S.

Note: For post-September2004 Hurricane Ivanrecovery effort updates in theCayman Islands, see theCayman Islands Departmentof Tourism Web site,www.caymanislands.ky

thousands of slaves were not brought here because of lack of good agri-cultural land. Deserters from Cromwell’s army in England, shipwreckedand marooned sailors, pirates, and escaped slaves from Jamaica made upthe early population. Henry Morgan, Blackbeard, Calico Jack, and NealWalker were among the famous pirate visitors. Rumors persist thatpirate treasure is still buried in the caves on Cayman Brac.

Spain ceded the islands to England in 1670 at the same time asJamaica, and in 1863 they were annexed to Jamaica. When Jamaicasought its independence in 1962, the Cayman Islands separated from itand decided to remain a Crown colony of Great Britain.

Arrival and Location BriefingExcluding Cuba, the Cayman Islands are the closest destination in theCaribbean to Miami (since the Bahamas are actually outside theCaribbean). All international flights go into Grand Cayman; from there,Cayman Airways and Island Air fly to the other two islands. CaymanAirways flies directly from Miami, Houston, Orlando, and Tampa; fourU.S. scheduled carriers and a number of charters also operate directly.There are up to 70 nonstop flights weekly from Miami.

Cayman Brac and Little Cayman are approximately 90 miles east-northeast of Grand Cayman. All three islands have great diving.Serious scuba fans will want to go to these two smaller and less-developed islands often. Those seeking solitude will also enjoy these quiet islands.

Local TransportationA scheduled minibus service goes up and down the beach and to theEast End of Grand Cayman. Those renting cars are charged a fee(about $7.50 in the past) for a Cayman driver’s license, in addition tothe regular rental fees and taxes. Renting motor scooters and bikes maybe safer here than at other destinations. The 150-passenger RumPointer Ferry operates several times daily from the dock of the HyattRegency on Seven Mile Beach to Rum Point, which is midpoint on thenorth coast.

Island Air has three flights a day from Grand Cayman to Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, a 40-minute trip. Check for schedules onCayman Airways also. The flight between the two small islands takesabout 10 minutes.


One of the most signifi-cant events in theislands’ history was the“wreck of the ten sails”in 1794. On one darknight the lead ship of aconvoy of merchantships bound forEngland struck the reefat East End, GrandCayman, and gave asignal to warn off theother ships. However,the signal was mistakenfor the order to closeup, and the other nineships struck the reefone after another. Theresidents of East Endshowed such heroismin rescuing the crewmembers that onlyeight lives were lost.Legend has it thatEngland rewarded theisland with tax-free status in perpetuity.

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Grand CaymanGeorge Town, the capital, is at the southern end of the island’s famedSeven Mile Beach (in actuality it is less than six miles long). The shapeof the island is somewhat like a person’s arm, bent at the elbow.George Town is just above the elbow, and the beach reaches all the wayup the forearm. The larger, but less visited, upper arm of the islandextends eastward from the capital.

Most vacationers spend their time on the beach or in the water duringthe day, engaging in water sports, lunching at their resort, or doing abit of shopping. On the standard tour, visitors see the town,stop at the Turtle Farm, and then visit Hell.

At the Turtle Farm, visitors can observe turtles in every stage ofdevelopment at the only commercial sea turtle farm in theworld. Turtles once thrived in the Caymans until being almostwiped out by the thousands of ships that harvested them sincethe 1500s. The Turtle Farm is saving them from near-extinction. Circular cement tanks of various sizes house thou-sands of turtles from six ounces to 600 pounds. At a snackbar and restaurant, visitors can sample delicious turtle dishes.Approximately 4,000 turtles are used annually for local consumption, but an average of 1,500 turtles are releasedinto the natural environment.

Hell is a jagged piece of ironshore rock at the north end of SevenMile Beach. This famous landmark does indeed resemble the charredremains of a hellfire. A boardwalk, which sits behind the post office andthe shops that sell local crafts, provides better viewing of this fascinating formation. Tourists ensure that the post office does abustling business in cards postmarked from Hell.

Those spending more than a few days on the island will want toexplore the parts of the island that day-trippers, dive fanatics, andbeach-partiers miss. Visitors going to the East End will pass by a number of blowholes and evidence of wrecked ships on their way toOld Isaac Village, near the end of the island’s east cape. An area ofmangroves and woods on the large east side of the island has a two-mile hiking trail.

Toward the middle of the coastal road is the town of Savannah andPedro St. James National Historic Site, a historically accurate


Turtle Farm


restoration of an early 19th-century great house (constructionwas completed in December 1998). It was one of the few suchhouses in the Cayman Islands. This historic site was also the“birthplace of democracy” for the islands, housing their firstelected meeting in 1831. The house has won awards as oneof the most beautiful in the Caribbean. Farther east is QueenElizabeth Botanic Park, a 65-acre reserve featuring gardens, trails, and nature reserves. The island’s blue iguanas are a highlight.

Seven Mile Beach harbors more than 50 hotels and con-dominiums, ranging from the Marriott, Westin, HyattRegency, and Treasure Island resorts (each in the neigh-borhood of 300 rooms) to two- and three-unit villas.

More intimate and deluxe properties also share the beach. Almost halfof the island’s rooms are villas or condominiums, which are perfect forfamilies, those on a budget, or those who are staying for a week ormore. Many of the hotels offer dive packages. Lodgings off the beach,near or in George Town, cater to divers on a limited budget.

Cayman BracCayman Brac, the second-largestisland of the group, is 81 mileseast-northeast of GrandCayman. It measures 12 mileslong and 2.2 miles at its widestpoint. On Cayman Brac (bracis Gaelic for “bluff”), thebluffs are the major attrac-tion. The Bluff at the eastern end of the island is atowering limestone plateauthat soars to 140 feetabove sea level; it is the mostspectacular sight to see on the islands.

New nature sites, unveiled in the late 1990s and early 2000s, includehiking trails, woodland walks, boardwalks out to wetlands, panoramicoverviews, and pristine beach locations. Adventurers can explore themany caves that honeycomb the limestone by climbing over jaggedrocks. There are no actual towns on the Brac (populationapproximately 1,600), but the islanders do congregate in two islandcommunities. Most visitors come to enjoy the water sports, relax, hikethe beaches, and bird-watch.


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Little CaymanLying about five miles west of Cayman Brac, Little Cayman is thesmaller of the two. Its few small hotels and population of about 120provide an even more intimate atmosphere than Cayman Brac, if that ispossible. The only bars and restaurants are at the island’s hotels.Isolated beaches and lagoons and a large natural bird sanctuary areLittle Cayman’s main attractions, besides its legendary diving.

What’s Special about the Caymans?Diving is the special activity in the Cayman Islands. Dramatic underwaterwalls, great visibility, a wealth of marine life, topnotch diving facilities thatpioneered diving in the Caribbean, and easy access (some dives do notrequire a boat—you can just walk out from shore) are major reasons forthe Caymans’ renown. Special activities include diving with stingrays (seebelow) and ample opportunities to practice underwater photography.Snorkelers can often see fantastic sights just a short distance from shore.For more information, see “Selling the Cayman Islands,” or refer to thediving section in the course Introduction. If you visit the Cayman IslandsDepartment of Tourism’s Web site and click on all diving links, you’llcome up with a list of “25 Qualities That Make Cayman One of theWorld’s Best Dive Destinations.” One of these links also allows web-surfers to take virtual dives.

Besides the usual full array of beach and water activities, the CaymanIslands pioneered a swimming-with-stingrays program at Stingray City. Agroup of tame stingrays seems to enjoy the program as much as those whopay for the privilege, as they curl in and out among snorkelers and thosemerely wading in the water. Called by some “the world’s best 12-footdive,” Stingray City ranks as one of the country’s most famous attractions.

Even nondivers can enjoy the Caymans’ underwater beauty. Visitors cantake an Atlantis submarine excursion to see marine life, and its glass-bottom-boat trips are among the best. For the more adventurous, tworesearch submarines take two passengers and a pilot on dives of 800 to1,000 feet to view sea life along a steep, sloping wall. Passengers alsocan view the wreck of the Kirk Pride, a cargo ship that sank in 1976and lodged on a rock ledge at 800 feet.

Because they lie toward the northern part of the Caribbean and closeto the large shoals around Cuba, the Cayman Islands have become agreat sportfishing area in the last few years; this activity will no doubtcontinue to grow in popularity. In the spring, a fishing tournamentoffers six-figure rewards for expert (and lucky) anglers. Grand Caymanalso boasts three major golf courses, one designed by Jack Nicklaus.


Scuba Diving magazinerated five diveoperations of CaymanBrac and Little Caymanas the best in thebusiness, scoring themwith straight A’s inservice, facilities, boats,and value.

Little Cayman also tookfirst-place awards in1999 for the best walldiving, best fish life, best advanced diving,healthiest marineenvironment, and bestoverall diving desti-nation. Cayman Bracranked just after it inmarine environment andadvanced diving, whilethe Cayman Islands as awhole were namedDestination of theDecade by the leadingdive marketingassociation.

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Island CultureThe indigenous population is of Scottish, Welsh, English, and African-Jamaican descent, but a third of all residents are now noncitizens whooriginate from all over the world. The lilt of the local English dialectreflects this ethnic mixture. British cultural proclivities have alwaysdominated, but North American influences have become considerableand have been increasing each year.

Turtle soup, stew, and steak are the islands’ most well-known spe-cial dishes, though they may not be available at all times of the year.The original Caymanians lacked the export income to pay forimported foods, because the plantation system was never verystrong here. Gastronomically, this was fortunate in that they did notrely on European meats; instead they ate more local foods thanmost Caribbean islanders and thereby developed a diverse cuisine.Seafood and conch are served plain or Cayman style, with peppers,onions, and tomatoes.

By asking around, diners will occasionally find traditional dishes such as“fish tea” (a type of bouillabaisse), accompaniments such as breadfruitand yams, and cassava, which goes into both stews and cakes. If youlook closely, you’ll notice the spices and “jerk” influence of Jamaicancooking on the cuisine of these islands. Diners can feast on a meal ofcoconut shrimp or conch chowder, followed by turtle steak or jerkedmeat and vegetable, and finished off with “heavy cake.” All this can beaccompanied by a Stingray Beer from the local brewery.

Celebrations and Special EventsPirates Week, held the last week of October, is the Caymans’ majorfestival. The celebration pays tribute to the nation’s past and culturalheritage with parades, regattas, fishing tournaments, and other swash-buckling events. Batabano, Grand Cayman’s costume parade, takesplace in George Town in early May.

The Queen’s Birthday is celebrated in mid-June with a full-dress-uniform parade. During April and May, sailors participate in the Roundthe Island Regatta, and the International Fishing Tournamentdraws anglers from around the world for its prizes. The Taste ofCayman takes place in July. Check a schedule for the exact dates of allthese festivals.


Dining and EntertainmentGuests tend to take most of their meals at the many hotels along SevenMile Beach, but a variety of other restaurants offer somewhat moreadventurous island and ethnic fare. Dining establishments try to geartheir cuisines to standard American and European tastes, with numer-ous local touches and flavors. Diners can also find Italian dishes, fajitas,and British pub-style food.

However, there is no shortage of more adventurous fare for those whoseek it out. Imported chefs prepare seafood in a variety of innovativeways using local fruits, curries, chutneys, coconut, yams, and breadfruit.Local dishes that have been specialties for the past 200 years are harderto find. Look for them at local festivals or on holidays (especially theTaste of Cayman in July). American fast-food outlets are represented.

Although Grand Cayman is not a hotspot for Caribbean nightlife, it isactive enough to satisfy most visitors. Entertainment is usually linked tothe hotels. A few smaller clubs host local bands, with an occasionalconcert by internationally known reggae and pop groups. Music loversmight want to bring home CDs of the legendary George Nowak, the“Barefoot Man,” who performed for decades at the Holiday Inn onSeven Mile Beach. At the time of writing, he was still playing onMonday and Friday evenings at Rum Point Restaurant.

Cruise CallOn average, two to three cruise ships a day call at Grand Cayman duringthe high season. To ensure that the greater George Town area is notadversely affected, the island allows only 5,500 to 6,000 cruise-ship passengers to visit per day. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays are thebusiest. Most ships’ tenders take passengers to George Town; fromthere, they can easily walk around the town or go shopping. The stan-dard island tour covers Seven Mile Beach, Hell, the Turtle Farm, andperhaps one or two other highlights mentioned previously. Other tripsvisit Stingray City or challenging dive spots. The island’s many hotels,welcoming attitude, snorkeling and diving opportunities, and advancedinfrastructure (shops, taxis, minivans, good roads) make it quite popular.

Because Grand Cayman has short distances and reliable taxis, visitorscan hire a driver and do their own tour. Many arrivals will want toenjoy Seven Mile Beach and the facilities of one of the resort hotels.Diving, snorkeling, submarine, and glass-bottom-boat tours completethe offerings. Those who want an ecological hike or wish to partake ofthe old island atmosphere should head for the East End.


The Caymans are notone of the Caribbean’smajor hikingdestinations, but eachisland offers its own hikefor nature lovers. BracParrot Reserve is theprime location onCayman Brac, while theRed-Footed BoobyBird Nature Reserve isthe choice on LittleCayman. On GrandCayman, NatureWalking Toursorganizes a somewhatrugged two-mile trekthrough a nature reserveof mangrove swamp andancient rocky woodlands.Experts believe that thered earth on thenorthern part of theMastic Trail, as it isknown, is sand that hastraveled all the way fromthe Sahara Desert.Apparently, high-altitudewinds that blow in theopposite direction of thetrade winds scooped upthe sand from NorthAfrica and deposited ithere.

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Selling the Cayman IslandsIf you want to cater to the niche market of serious divers, you need tolearn a bit more about this specialty. Review the scuba-divinginformation under “Specialty Niches” in the Introduction. Ask theCayman Islands Department of Tourism for special brochures,particularly “Snorkeling Guide” and “Dive Guide.” For divers on abudget, look for groups formed to share condominiums andapartments; this will bring down the cost.

For clients who have never dived before, the Caymans are one of thebest places to learn this activity. If you learn along with them, you willkeep them coming back in the future. The Cayman Islands Departmentof Tourism likes to make the point that scuba-diving is no longer justthe province of the young and strong; entire families now participate inthis water sport.

Obviously, divers are one of the major Cayman market segments. Butkeep in mind that a majority of arrivals are not divers. The CaymanIslands are a quintessentially Caribbean destination, with sand, sun, andsea and little or no hassle. Vacationers looking for beaches and watersports, and who want a clean Caribbean environment to relax in,unmarred by poverty or vendors at every turn, will enjoy these islands.Less confident vacationers, who perhaps should be warned off some ofthe poorer, more culturally diverse islands, will probably feel quitecomfortable here. Visitors will find quality hotel entertainment and finedining (at a substantial price). Besides the diving and deep-sea fishing,seclusion is the watchword for the two smaller islands.

Those who prefer an exotic island culture, who need a more variedlandscape, or who become bored with the beach-resort culture after afew days (and who do not dive) may get restless; however, they canvisit Cayman Brac for a look at a slightly different topography.

Island Secret Those who truly want to get away from it all might enjoy a picnic onOwen Island, which lies a few hundred yards off already secluded LittleCayman. A rowboat available on Little Cayman will get them to thisislet. Another secluded spot on the littlest Cayman is South Hole SoundLagoon, where swimmers can often take a dip all by themselves.


Travel counselors whohave established them-selves as bona fide spe-cialists in selling divetrips may become eligi-ble for the CaymanIslands’ annual dive famtrips. DubbedSCUBABOWL in theyear 2000, such tripsconsist of site inspec-tions, boat dives, andevening social events, aswell as interaction withlocal dive operators.

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Key Points about the Cayman Islands• Top diving location in Caribbean

• Banking center

• High standard of living

• Famed Seven Mile Beach and resorts/condominiums

• Stingray City

• Cayman Brac

• Little Cayman

For More InformationCayman Islands Department of Tourism420 Lexington Avenue, Suite 2733New York, NY 10170Phone: 800-346-3313 or 212-682-5582Fax: 212-986-5123E-mail: [email protected] sites: www.caymanislands.ky (for all three islands)www.sisterislands.com (for Cayman Brac and Little Cayman)www.divecayman.ky


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Negril

Mandeville

Ocho RiosRunaway Bay

CockpitCountry

Port Royal

Rose Hall Plantation

Dunn’s River Falls

Greenwood

Doctor’s Cave Beach

Fern Gully

FireflyGoldeneye

Blue Mountains

Falmouth

Spanish Town

Port Antonio

Rio Grande

Montego Bay

Kingston



Seven Mile Beach

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Crisscrossing up a 600-foot, shallow waterfall in a human chain froma white-sand beach or reclining on a two-person wooden raft

being poled down a river—these are just two of the images of Jamaica(juh MAY kuh) that delight visitors’ imaginations. Jamaica is one placein which reality fulfills expectations. The foliage-covered mountains,soft breezes, cascading waterfalls, and colorful flowers make Jamaica atropical paradise, one of the most popular destinations in theCaribbean. Its vital culture matches its physical attributes and may bethe strongest in the region. Jamaican music is known the world over;its religions permeate other islands; its politics are studied and observedby the region.

Jamaica is the third-largest island in the Caribbean and almost the sizeof Connecticut. Jamaica offers the visitor a wide variety of vacationoptions, and the right choice can make all the difference: the colonialaffluence of Port Antonio, the lushness of Ocho Rios, the variety ofMontego Bay, and the hedonism of Negril, to name some of the morepopular choices. The ecotraveler and the culture buff can venture fartherinto the interior.

Historical BackgroundIn 1494, on his second voyage, Christopher Columbus called onJamaica, ushering in 150 years of Spanish rule from Spanish Town, stillone of the island’s main cities. Jamaica was not as important to theSpanish conquerors as the larger islands of Hispaniola and Cuba, whichthey fortified more strongly. When the English failed in their attempt totake these larger islands, they invaded sparsely settled Jamaica instead.

The weaker Spanish forces and authorities fled the island or otherwisedispersed. At the same time, the Africans that the Spanish had kept asslaves escaped into the mountains and formed groups called Maroons.Some went over to the English side early on in the fight against theSpanish, but most fought the English, who wanted to re-enslave them. These early guerrilla fighters were never really conquered andeventually forced the English to sign treaties granting them rights ofself-government. Their descendants still live in the hilly CockpitCountry of western Jamaica.

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: Jamaica • 115

JamaicaFast FactsLand Area4,411 square miles

Population2.5 million

CapitalKingston

LanguagesEnglish, Jamaican Creole

Time ZoneUTC -5 or EST. It does not observe day-light-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyJamaican dollar


The British allowed buccaneers and pirates such as Henry Morgan towreak havoc on Spanish ships for almost a century. Eventually, theEnglish gained complete control and by the mid-1700s began toachieve great wealth and prosperity through sugar production and theslave trade. This situation lasted until the abolition of slavery in 1834.Jamaica has struggled to reach some type of economic stability eversince. Agriculture and mining, primarily of bauxite (from which alu-minum is made), are two of its major industries, but tourism is now itslargest and fastest-growing industry.

In 1962 Jamaica became an independent country and remains a part ofthe British Commonwealth. The queen of England is head of state inname only; the prime minister and both houses of parliament are elected by the people.

Arrival and Location BriefingJamaica’s two major international airports are located at Montego Bayon the north coast and at Kingston on the south coast. Scheduleddirect and nonstop flights operate out of New York, Newark,Baltimore/Washington, Philadelphia, Atlanta, Miami, Fort Lauderdale,Orlando, Chicago, Los Angeles, and Tampa. Charters provide additional nonstop service from other cities. The vast majority ofresort-hotels, resort-towns, good beaches, and all the activities that gowith them are located on the north coast. Americans going to Kingstonwill generally be business people, those connecting to flights to otherCaribbean islands, and special-interest travelers.

Jamaica provides visitors with an abundance of resort areas and sight-seeing opportunities. The vast majority of tourists choose a location onthe island’s beach-lined north coast, but there is plenty to see and do inthe interior as well. From west to east, the three largest resort areas onthe north coast are:

• Negril

• Montego Bay

• Ocho Rios

The smaller area of Runaway Bay is between Montego Bay and OchoRios, while Port Antonio is east of all three. Each resort area has itsadherents, and a careful reading of their descriptions here and in guide-books can help you decide which is best for a particular client. Manyvisitors prefer lusher Ocho Rios or more relaxed Negril, but make surethey are prepared for the one-and-a-half- to two-hour transfer uponarrival. Those who don’t want to transfer by land can take one of thesmall commuter flights that connect the resorts.


Local TransportationMost U.S. visitors don’t “tour” Jamaica. It’s too big. They get a trans-fer (usually by minivan or small bus) that is provided in their packageor can easily be arranged ahead of time, and then stay put at their chosen resort area. From there they take local tours, raft trips, or theAppleton Express tourist train trip at Montego Bay, or rent a bike(especially in Negril). Otherwise they can taxi into town and back—fares are set from point to point but should be agreed upon in advance.

Renting a car to see the interior or southern parts of the island is forthe more adventurous: driving is on the left; roads are in differentstages of repair and are winding and narrow in the mountains; traveltimes can be relatively long; and gasoline is expensive. However, theexperience is quite fascinating for the right traveler, as the people arevery gregarious and the culture, exceptional.

The cost of a car rental is quite high. Some clients (especially two couples) may prefer a week’s car rental if they want to make extensiveexcursions along the northern coast or into the interior. If they arestaying outside of the Montego Bay area, the cost savings of transfersto and from Negril, Ocho Rios or other resorts can pay for a good partof the rental. Most travelers, however, tend to stay at one resort andare better off with transfers and taxis; this is particularly true for thosestaying at all-inclusives.


Negril Once the counterculture capital of Jamaica, for both Americans andJamaicans, Negril (neh GRIHL) still retains the casual, hedonisticappeal that brought it fame 25 years ago. “Clothing optional” beaches,liberal attitudes toward marijuana use, and rumors of wild parties at theall-inclusive resorts keep this reputation intact; however, there are alsointimate hideaway resorts and guesthouses for those who want to beaway from the partying of other vacationers, experience Jamaican cul-ture (this is probably the best resort area to do so), or have a relaxingvacation on their own terms.

A prime draw is Negril’s Seven-Mile Beach, where most of the majorresorts are located. To the south are a series of rocky coves, cliffs, andpromontories, along with private homes, the smaller hotels and guest-houses, and a number of bustling bistros and discothèques.

Negril is a two-hour transfer by minivan from Montego Bay airport.


For some, this drive can be a long, hot, and bumpy start to a vacation;but for most of those headed for Negril, the music, free rum drinks atthe airport, and the tropical atmosphere make the ride worth the trip.Larger resorts have their own vans, while other services meet all flights.Those traveling independently should arrange for their return to theairport ahead of time.

The closest thing to a tourist sight in Negril, besides the Seven-MileBeach, is Rick’s Café, for years the “in” place to watch the sun set overa rum drink or Jamaican Red Stripe beer. Nightlife is divided betweenthe shows and parties of the all-inclusive compounds and the simplerlocal bars, discothèques, and outdoor reggae clubs, some of which arenear the beach.

All-inclusives receive the bulk of visitors. Hedonism II was one of thefirst in the area with the concept. Today some of the other big namesare the deluxe Grand Lido, Swept Away, Sandals Negril, and BeachesNegril. Those who like the concept, but prefer vacationing with 60rather than 600 fellow guests, can choose among a few smaller all-inclusive hotels (30 rooms or so). Be sure to check whether a particularall-inclusive caters to singles or is for couples only. The names of someof the more intimate hotels such as Tree House and Rock Cliff reflecttheir locations and atmosphere.

Montego BayMontego Bay (or Mo’Bay, as it is locally known), is Jamaica’s leadingtourist center. Tourism has made it the country’s second-largest city. Itis alive with restaurants, sightseeing spots, nightlife, shops, beaches, andsports facilities. For travelers who want to be where the action is andhave a variety of things to see and do, this is the choice. An added plus

is that Sangster Airport is just two miles from town; vacationerscan be at their hotels or on the beach within minutes of arrival,especially important to note for short-stay visitors.

The key sight in the area is Rose Hall Plantation, the mostwell-known great house in Jamaica and one of the best knownin the Caribbean. It was built by a wealthy British planter,John Palmer, in the late 1770s. The plantation has been thesubject of legends and tales of witchcraft. One such storyinvolves Palmer’s descendant, Annie Palmer, who supposedlytook slaves as lovers and husbands, all of whom were myste-riously murdered soon after Annie tired of them. Rose Hallhas been the setting for a number of gothic novels andremains haunted, according to many reports. Greenwood

is an even more elegant plantation house, lying on a hillside


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14 miles east of Montego Bay. It was originally owned by RichardBarrett, a cousin of Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Greenwood is filledwith rare books dating back to 1697, as well as paintings, Wedgwoodchina, and a rare exhibit of musical instruments.

The Appleton Estate Express is an air-conditioned diesel railcar thattakes visitors through the hills and countryside around Montego Bay. Itstops at the Appleton Rum Distillery, the Ipswich caves, a riverbank fora picnic, and a fabric market.

Montego Bay offers the largest diversity of hotels in Jamaica. The maindecision to make here is hotel location and how much urban environ-ment and atmosphere your clients might enjoy. Some hotels are onbeautiful beaches a few miles out of town. Others are on Doctor’s CaveBeach in the heart of both tourist and local action. Some villas and smallhotels are on hills overlooking the shoreline or city. A sample of accom-modation choices includes all-inclusives such as Sandals (there are threein the area) and Breezes; exclusive resorts such as Round Hill and Tryall,situated on former plantation land near the sea; and the new 430-roomRitz-Carlton Rose Hall, which opened in 2000.

Between Montego Bay and Ocho RiosBeautiful beaches line much of the coast along this 60-mile stretch.Small resorts, a few all-inclusives, and other smaller hostelries dot theshoreline, especially at Falmouth and Runaway Bay. Trelawny Beach,Jamaica Jamaica, and F.D.R. Pebbles Resort are some of the tried-and-true names. These locations might be perfect for vacationers who wantto be away from the bigger towns and yet have access to them for a dayor two. A new Hedonism III opened in 1999 at Runaway Bay. It fea-tures a waterscape theme with three pools and two beaches; one of thepools and one of the beaches are for au naturel bathing. The resort notonly has a swim-up bar but also some swim-up rooms.

Ocho RiosOcho Rios (O cho REE os) is about a two-hour drive from Montego Bay.As travelers approach the area, the Jamaican countryside becomes moreand more lush. Hills overlook beautiful Turtle Bay, which is surroundedby reefs. Even the hotels in the heart of the city are on lovely beaches.Nevertheless, other hotels, condominiums, and villas are spread outalong beaches farther east for those who want more seclusion.

Brochure photographs hardly do justice to the stunning sight ofDunn’s River Falls. Few people come away disappointed with the fallsof cold, clear mountain water splashing over stone ledges and steps into


The $20 millionAquasol Theme Park,a water and sports parkin Montego Bay,opened in 1998, one ofthe first of its kind inthe Caribbean. The parkfeatures a giantwaterslide, go-carttrack, nightclub,cosmopolitanrestaurant, and sportsbar (with 42 big-screentelevisions). Gamecourts for tennis,soccer, volleyball, andnetball, as well asfashion shows anddance parties, are partof the fun that brings anew dimension toCaribbean attractions.

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the warm Caribbean. It is one of the island’s most famousattractions.

Although the 600-foot climb to the top is not for everyone,most people make it up easily and consider it a highlight oftheir trip. Guides lead the way and help those needing anextra hand. Visitors can dip into cool pools between the cas-cades of water. An old pair of battered tennis shoes is thebest footwear for the climb.

People in varying kinds of physical shape climb the falls.However, although walking up Dunn’s River Falls is notan “adventure hike,” do not present the climb as a “recommended” or “must-do” activity. Slips on the rocks

do occur, limbs can be broken, and you don’t want to be liable. At anytime during their climb, visitors can opt to switch to a stairway pathnext to the falls.

A drive winding up 700 feet through Fern Gully and the surroundingrain forest is also part of the Ocho Rios experience. The forest hasmore varieties of ferns than anywhere else in the world. Nature loverscan also pay a visit to Shaw Park Gardens on a hill above the town.Great houses and working plantations are other lovely sights. Farthereast are Goldeneye, the former residence of author Ian Fleming (thecreator of James Bond), and Firefly, once the home of noted Britishauthor-actor Noel Coward. Guests at Firefly have included a few luminaries, such as Princess Margaret, the Queen Mother, and WinstonChurchill. The home is now owned by the Jamaica National Trust andis open to the public.

The high-rise Jamaica Grande resort overlooks Turtle Beach in theheart of Ocho Rios, and a few other smaller hotels are on the beachjust steps away from town and the local markets. Outside of town someof the all-inclusives are Boscobel Beach, which caters to families;Couples, which is for couples only; and two Sandals properties, whichare also couples-only. A number of more sophisticated resorts such asSans Souci and Plantation Inn exude the elegance of old Jamaica.

Minivans and larger buses transfer arrivals from Mo’Bay to Ocho Rios;they often stop at an outdoor bar and jerk chicken stand along the way.

Port AntonioAccessibility, or lack of it, helps define the appeal of Port Antonio. It lieson the northeastern coast, an hour and a half from Ocho Rios, and isbuilt around two harbors. Port Antonio is actually closer to Kingston


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than to Montego Bay; however, for the average visitor, the transfer fromeither is too long. Thus, Port Antonio, which began as a mecca ofwealthy royalty and Hollywood superstars such as Errol Flynn, retains itsexclusive appeal today. Most visitors fly in from Kingston by Trans-Jamaican, the interisland carrier, or come by private jet or helicopter. Thetown itself is much more peaceful than its sister resort towns to the west.Port Antonio will appeal to travelers who want a special and more privatelocation and are willing to spend some time and money to get there.

A must-do activity, especially for those on a secluded honeymoon, is araft trip down the Rio Grande. The bamboo rafts, originally used totransport bananas, are fitted with seats for two (supposedly the idea camefrom Errol Flynn). A raftsman poles the craft down the river on a three-hour trip, while water splashes and cascades over the passengers, who caneither sit or lie on the raft; when the sun becomes too hot, they can evenslip over the side into the cool river. The raftsman will make stops for aswim, photographs, or a picnic. Those staying in Ocho Rios can visitPort Antonio for a day to take the raft trip as well as explore the town.

Port Antonio has fewer hotels than other resort areas, but there is atleast one in each category, including the elegant Trident Villas and thevery private Fern Hill Club, which evokes the Jamaica of a century ago(with a clubhouse, villas, and no air-conditioning). Many of the wealth-iest visitors have their own villas.

Kingston and the Interior of JamaicaFew conventional vacationers go to the capital of Kingston or to theinterior of the island. But the number of visitors to these less-touristedareas is rising. Anyone who wants to experience the island’s rich culturein any real depth, or is interested in ecotravel, will want to visit the cap-ital, other towns, and the lush, mountainous interior.

Kingston, on the southeastern coast, is the largest English-speaking cityin the Caribbean with 1 million residents and is the center of politicaland business activity. It is on one of the Caribbean’s best harbors. Acrossfrom it is Port Royal (a 30-minute ferry ride), which was once the maintrading center and a pirate stronghold; however, that prominence endedin 1672, when an earthquake and tidal wave devastated it. Today PortRoyal is mostly occupied by a naval base. Devon House, built in 1881by one of the first black millionaires in the Caribbean, is one of themore popular attractions, as are Jamaica House (residence of the primeminister), King’s House (residence of the British governor-general),and Hope Botanical Gardens. Just outside of town is the island’s mostwell-known tourist sight, the Bob Marley Museum, situated in the for-mer home of this internationally known reggae singer.


Top Kingston hotels have many resort amenities, but beaches are agood distance away. Visitors will need to ask which sections of the cityare unsafe, especially at night.

Travelers can gain further insight into the nation by visiting smaller andmore manageable cities, such as Spanish Town (the original capital)and Mandeville. Journeys into Cockpit Country to see the remainingtowns of the Maroons and into the Blue Mountains will reward travelers with some of the best coffee in the world, cave tours, lushflora and birds, and challenging hikes.

What’s Special about Jamaica?Jamaica has developed the “all-inclusive” concept to a greater degreethan any other island. Resort marketing frequently points out thatthere are all-inclusives for every stage of life: resorts where one canmeet or marry a spouse, honeymoon, return as a couple, or vacationwith the family. Each of the major resort areas has a selection of them.Some of the resorts (not just the all-inclusives) have nanny services,enhancing the island’s appeal as a family destination. Golfers can enjoyexcellent golf courses from Montego Bay to Port Antonio.

Jamaican culture pervades the entire Caribbean, and many visitors willcome principally to partake of it. At the same time, the island’s interioris one of the Caribbean’s prime ecotourism destinations, featuring7,402-foot Blue Mountain Peak, forest reserves, and mangrove andmahogany forests. Mountain inns, eco-lodges, camping sites, safaritours, and eco-guides bring visitors close to exotic birds, manatees,indigenous crocodiles, and unending assortments of flora.

Island CultureJamaica’s cultural influences are as strong as any in the Caribbean. Interms of music, only Trinidad rivals Jamaica. Reggae music originatedin Jamaica and is known throughout the world; its icon, Bob Marley,who died in 1981, is still one of the most internationally famous namesin popular music. But reggae is not Jamaica’s only claim to fame. Manystyles, such as calypso and soca (a combination of soul and calypso),first took off in Trinidad and then influenced Jamaican music, developing into “rock steady,” ska, and finally reggae.

Reggae embodies more than just music. Its lyrics are almost alwayspolitical and religious in nature. Bob Marley and many other reggaemusicians were or are Rastafarians, a religious sect that evokes a


strong pride in Jamaica’s African roots. Rastafarians’ African clothingand dreadlocks make them easily identifiable. Less than 5 percent ofJamaicans are Rastafarians, but they help define Jamaican culture tomany non-Jamaicans.

Rastafarianism itself is divided into different sects. Some of its adherentsbelieve that smoking ganja (marijuana), the sacred weed, makes thembetter able to commune with their religion. It is, nevertheless, illegal.Visitors should be careful to know what they are doing and with whomthey are doing it. They might believe that there is a relaxed attitudetoward marijuana use, but at no time should they think that theauthorities will overlook it.

Jamaican art, straw-weaving, and woodworking are excellent, and galleries are found throughout the cities and tourist enclaves.

Jamaican food is a distinct cuisine, with many interesting dishes madewith a rich array of fruits, vegetables, and spices. Specialties include:

• Curried goat, which is often found at the buffet table at all-inclusives.

• Jerk chicken or pork. Jerk meat is heavily spiced and cooked on coalsor wood. Tourists will find it at roadside stands or jerk shacks.

• Stamp-and-go. A main ingredient of these patties is salt cod.

• Ackee rice and salt fish, the national dish.

Pepperpot and callaloo soup, found throughout the Caribbean, arepopular. Vegetarians can feast on Jamaica’s abundant variety of fruitsand vegetables.

Jamaica’s libations are perhaps even more famed than its food. A fancyisland drink of fruit juices and Appleton Rum is a popular aperitif.Locally produced Red Stripe beer is sold throughout the island and theCaribbean, and in the United States; it is often enjoyed with spicy food.Diners can top off an evening meal with a Tia Maria coffee liqueur orsome Blue Mountain coffee.

Culture enthusiasts may want to consider Jamaica’s popular Meet thePeople program in order to experience firsthand the island’s motto,“Out of Many, One People.”


Celebrations and Special EventsAs you might expect, many of the island’s top events center aroundreggae and other musical forms. A sampling includes the Air JamaicaJazz and Blues Festival in January, an island-wide Celebrating BobMarley festival in February, the Ocho Rios Jazz Festival in June, andthe Reggae Sumfest in Montego Bay in August.

Carnival is not a centuries-old tradition as on other islands but hasonly come into its own in the last ten years. Held in Kingston andOcho Rios around Easter, Carnival features some of the best bandsfrom Jamaica, Trinidad, and other islands, and even some of the cos-tumes from Trinidad’s famous Carnival.

Other events capitalize on Jamaica’s popularity with the physically fit: anannual marathon (in Kingston), a triathlon (at Treasure Beach), and amountain-bike festival (in Negril). One of the top historic events is theAccompong Maroon Festival, which dates back to the 19th century.

Dining and EntertainmentVacationers may experiment with curried goat, jerk chicken and pork,and the spicy sauces that accompany fish and other dishes. An adequatearray of Continental, American, and other ethnic dining choices areavailable at the major resort areas; however, there are not nearly asmany as one would expect, given the large numbers of visitors (most ofwhom eat at their all-inclusives). Negril’s independent restaurants highlight Jamaican cuisine and ambiance, luring some vacationers fromtheir resorts. Fast-food chains are available in Montego Bay and OchoRios and are enjoyed by Jamaicans and visitors alike.

Jamaica’s nightlife motivates some vacationers to leave their compound’s sheltered environment, but, again, most of them prefer toenjoy the entertainment that the resort provides. The more adventur-ous can find plenty of local spots in Montego Bay and Negril. Jamaicahas a rich musical heritage that vacationers will enjoy immensely.

Cruise CallBoth Montego Bay and Ocho Rios are ports of call for Caribbeancruises. In the past 10 years, a larger number of ships have gravitated toOcho Rios. Montego Bay proper is a short taxi ride from the cruisedock, while Ocho Rios’s main area and beaches are a short walk fromthe dock.


Jamaica has been thesetting for at leastthree films: The MightyQuinn, a commerciallypopular murder-mysterystarring DenzelWashington; the reggaemovie classic, TheHarder They Come,featuring Jimmy Cliff;and Cool Runnings, apopular B-grade comedy about theJamaican bobsled teamthat went to the WinterOlympics.

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Pampered cruise passengers who suddenly step into a culture they arenot familiar with may misunderstand vendors’ aggressive sales techniques. Hawkers will vigorously try to sell arrivals anythingJamaican, and a few things that aren’t. Some pretrip discussion of whatto expect will help to prepare travelers. Many cruisegoers will prefer anorganized tour to Dunn’s River Falls near Ocho Rios, rafting on theMartha Brae River in Montego Bay, or visiting one of the plantationgreat houses, rather than wandering the town or touring on their own.More experienced travelers can shop on their own or go to the beachesof the main hotels at Ocho Rios or Doctor’s Cave Beach at MontegoBay. Cruisegoers who want to enjoy the beaches or facilities at the all-inclusives should call ahead.

Selling JamaicaThe all-inclusive is king in Jamaica. These resorts draw clients duringvarious stages of their lives. Some clubs cater to singles, others to cou-ples, and still others to families with children. They will even be glad tohost a wedding (presumably at one of the couples-only clubs). Resortsrange from moderate to deluxe in price and amenities.

From the agent’s standpoint, selling an all-inclusive is similar to sellinga cruise. One package price includes almost everything, and it’s allcommissionable. However, unlike cruise ships, the price for all-inclusives usually covers all beverages, which are therefore commission-able. Prices at all-inclusives do average slightly more than the averagecruise because there isn’t as much discounting. Just as the cruise lineshave long advertised themselves as floating resorts, the all-inclusiveshave turned the tables and advertised themselves as land-based cruises.

Paradoxically, clients who avoid all-inclusives are also prime candidatesfor Jamaica. Travelers who want to be part of a vibrant local scene willfind few other islands better suited to them. Furthermore, it is good toremember that Jamaica was welcoming tourists long before most otherislands were. It still has elegant lodgings in lush settings that attractedspecial travelers even before the days of Noel Coward and Ian Fleming.

At the same time, Jamaica remains one of the Caribbean’s most contro-versial destinations. Strong educational and informational programshave been established to demonstrate the economic importance oftourism to the island; but petty hassles, aggressive vendors, and wide-spread soft drugs lead to fear on the part of less-experienced touristsand an intense dislike for the country on the part of some conservativetravelers. Some cruise passengers do not bother to alight at Jamaicanports; and some guests at all-inclusives venture out of their compoundsonce and vow not to do so again.


Few visitors are neutral about their experiences here. Jamaica givesmany travelers rewards that can be matched by few other Caribbeandestinations. It welcomes almost as many American tourists annually asthe Bahamas or Puerto Rico, and receives far more American visitorsthan Bermuda, Aruba, or the U.S. Virgin Islands. However, sendingthe wrong client to Jamaica can also be a bigger mistake here than anywhere else.

Young, fashionable, urban Americans; middle-class suburbanites whofollow urban trends; young to middle-aged couples desiring the pursuitof pleasure with a touch of the exotic; those who are just graduating tothe next step beyond the college spring-break experience; middle-classto affluent families with small children, who want activities for the kidswhile the parents dance and dine nearby—these are just some of themarkets for Jamaica.

Demanding clients who want everything to run like clockwork, andconservative clients who are easily annoyed by street vendors andinquisitive locals, might not be good candidates for Jamaica.

Island Secret H.E.A.R.T. (Human Employment and Resort Training) Academy is a20-room inn-resort on a hill overlooking Runaway Bay on theCaribbean. The inn and its restaurant are staffed by students who willenter Jamaica’s hotel and tourism industry, as well as their professionalinstructors. Rates are very reasonable, the staff is eager to please, and thecuisine is exceptional. Unlimited complimentary golf at a nearby courseis one of its listed amenities. Any vacationing travel industry or hotelemployee will definitely want to visit H.E.A.R.T., but for the rightclient, it may also be just the spot for a few days of relaxation. Be sure toreserve ahead for a meal if clients are not staying as overnight guests.

Key Points about Jamaica• Kingston

• Montego Bay

• Ocho Rios

• Negril

• Port Antonio

• Culture and music

• All-inclusive resorts


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For More InformationJamaica Tourist Board801 Second Avenue, 20th FloorNew York, NY 10017Phone: 800-233-4582 or 212-856-9727Fax: 212-856-9730E-mail: [email protected] site: www.visitjamaica.com



© The Travel Institute

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Haiti


Haiti (HAY tee), the third-largest country in the Caribbean islands(after Cuba and the Dominican Republic), is almost the size of

Maryland. It is the third most populous country in the Caribbean.Even before its renewed political troubles in the early 1990s (whichculminated in an invasion by U.S. and Caribbean forces), Haiti’stourism industry had had major ups and downs. Tourism had beendeclining in the 1980s due to increasing economic and political turmoil. Today the country is beginning to recover, and tourism isslowly growing, after having stopped almost completely.

Haiti will not leave visitors with a neutral response. Its religion and artare unmatched in the region. Its sense of history, casual resort atmos-phere, French cuisine, low room prices, and air of mystery all haveappeal. However, its poverty is staggering. Visitors need a philosophy oftravel that overcomes these circumstances and a desire to experience theCaribbean’s most fascinating culture. Staying in a resort complex herecan be as relaxing as anywhere; touring in the cities or countryside,though richly rewarding, requires patience and a sense of adventure.

At the time this is written, Haiti is not for the conventional Caribbeanvacationer. Crime used to be very low, even though Haiti was the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere; now it is high, and thereis still the possibility of an outbreak of political violence. But the coun-try is becoming more and more stable, and visitors are beginning toreturn. Haiti is for those adventurous travelers who would appreciate itsrich culture and not be put off by its sometimes grinding poverty. Evenso, travelers or their agents should check with U.S. State Departmentconsular reports (see the course Introduction) for the latest situation atthe time they book and just before they leave. There is little doubt thatthe situation will have changed by the time you read this, most probably for the better, but possibly for the worse.

Historical BackgroundThe Spanish controlled Hispaniola from the moment Columbus landedon his first voyage. However, after their more lucrative conquests inMexico and Peru, they neglected it, allowing French pirates and eventu-ally Louis XIV, king of France, to place the territory under French control. For a while it was the richest colony in France’s empire.

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: Haiti • 129

HaitiFast FactsLand Area10,714 square miles


CapitalPort-au-Prince

LanguagesFrench, Creole

Time ZoneUTC -5 or EST. It does not observe day-light-saving time.

Drive onRight

CurrencyGourde (G)


In 1789, when news of the French Revolution reached Haiti,demonstrations, riots, and revolution racked the island. Slavery wasabolished by the slaves’ own rebellion, and battles were fought againstFrench troops until 1804, when Haiti became the Caribbean’s firstindependent country. Seven years later Henri Christophe crownedhimself King Henri I and established a court after the European model.During his reign, King Henri ordered the construction of Sans SouciPalace and the Citadelle. Although he established stability, hisdictatorial powers created dissatisfaction. According to legend, he killedhimself with a silver bullet in 1820.

In the next few decades, Haiti conquered the eastern portion ofHispaniola, but by 1844 this part of the island broke away to becomethe Dominican Republic. Unfortunately, from 1844 to the present day,Haiti has been beset with economic and political strife to greater orlesser degrees. Agriculture was never well organized. Small plots of landwere used to grow only enough crops for a family’s subsistence. Thismeant that nothing was left to export or trade for other goods. Whenthe land became depleted, forests were chopped down to seek newfarmland. Today much of the once lush landscape is bare.

Political instability led to a U.S. intervention in 1915 and an occupa-tion that lasted for almost 20 years. In 1957 François (“Papa Doc”)Duvalier, one of the Caribbean’s worst dictators, was elected president;soon after, he named himself to the position for life. When he died, hisson, Jean Claude (“Baby Doc”), took over. He was finally driven fromthe country in 1986 and sought refuge in France. Rumor has it that hetook a large portion of the country’s treasury with him.

In the late 1980s, Haiti established a new constitution and movedtoward democracy. However, the elected president, Jean Aristide, wasthrown out of power by the military, and the new leadership did littleto stop the murders and violence that soon ensued. In late 1994, theUnited States, at the head of a multinational force, forced the militaryjunta to give up power and stayed to help the country establish order.Today the country is edging toward political democracy and stability.In the late 1990s, almost 75 percent of Haitians were said to be livingbelow the poverty line, with 60 percent unemployed. Tourism is one ofHaiti’s hopes for a better economic future.

Arrival and Location BriefingHaiti comprises the western third of the island of Hispaniola, sharing itwith the larger Dominican Republic. International flights land at theairport near Port-au-Prince, the capital and largest city, which is locatedon the west coast.


Even in the 1970s and early 1980s, when there were more visitors,tourism tended to be in small enclaves or self-contained resorts, primarily because much of Haiti had little infrastructure. Nonetheless,excursions to the rest of the country were fascinating and rewarding, aswell as safe. Visitors could enjoy excellent French-Creole cuisine, spectacularly colorful artwork and crafts, an exotic culture, and thefriendly nature of the Haitian people.

Much of the interior of Haiti is rugged and mountainous. On thewhole, Haiti’s beaches do not compare with those on other islands.Many have dark volcanic sand. But there are nice ones scattered alongthe south coast, the southern peninsula, along the coast north of Port-au-Prince, and along the north coast; and it takes only one nicebeach to make a vacation. An admission fee is charged at those ownedby a hotel or developed by a cruise ship company.

Port-au-Prince and its pretty suburb, Pétionville, are the island’s majordestination and international gateway. Labadie, near Cap Haïtien on thenorth coast, was once a charter destination and popular cruise port.Nearby are Sans Souci and the Citadelle, two of the island’s major touristsights. Jacmel, on the south coast, has some of Haiti’s best beaches.

Local TransportationThe tap-tap is Haiti’s most common form of transportation, and sucha colorful one that every tourist will want a picture of at least one ofthem. Tap-taps are the country’s “buses”; but they are usually convert-ed pickup trucks fitted out with board seats, or old school buses. Theyare painted with colorful murals and are even given names. As multicolored and picturesque as the tap-taps are, their comfort leavessomething to be desired. Although they tend to be crowded, a shorttrip on one gives the tourist an opportunity to experience the Haitianculture and people.

City public transportation depends on publiques (shared taxis), thoughtap-taps are available for longer routes or for trips to the suburbs.

Those who wish to rent a car to see the countryside and travel betweenmajor destinations should know that the road infrastructure is inadequate. The major highway between Port-au-Prince and CapHaïtien is decently paved; anything else is likely to be an adventure ofpotholes and dirt roads for a good portion of the way. If clients aregoing anywhere off the beaten track, a four-wheel-drive vehicle (avail-able from most major rental companies) is advisable. Driving in


Port-au-Prince is neither recommended nor necessary; sights are withineasy walking distance or an inexpensive taxi ride from one another.

There is daily air service between Port-au-Prince and Cap Haïtien.Planes are small and fill up quickly. Service sometimes operates toJacmel and one or two other points.


Port-au-Prince/PétionvilleGingerbread houses, art galleries, voodoo shops, the Iron Market, thePresidential Palace, Sainte Trinité Episcopal Cathedral, theNational Museum, and hordes of people make up the frenziedmélange that is Port-au-Prince. After a day in dynamic Port-au-Prince,with its congestion and activity besieging the senses at every turn, trav-elers will know if they are ready for the rest of Haiti or should retreatto the lovely confines of their hotel and its amenities.

Those who are hesitant to stay in the city can stay in the foothills of themountains in the outskirts of the city. The suburb of Pétionville, Port-au-Prince’s more sophisticated and better-groomed sister, features someof the country’s nicer residences, mansions, and shops, and a numberof better hotels. Travelers can then take tours into the capital.

Those visiting on their own would be wise to hire a guide to fend offvendors, beggars, and others beseeching to betheir guide. Guides will know the current situa-tion in the country and can help keep the traveleraway from any potential safety hazards. One ofthe key themes many visitors focus on is Haitianart, which can be seen in the primitivist-stylemurals on the Cathedral walls, at the Museumof Haitian Art, and at numerous galleries andmarket stalls.

Both Port-au-Prince and Pétionville have first-class hotels. The 22-room Oloffson, whichdates from 1890, is the capital’s most historic

hostelry. It was the setting of a Graham Greenenovel and is the place to stay for journalists and expatriates. The hotelhas great character, but it has seen better days.

However, more is available in Pétionville, such as the 100-room ElRancho, a resort in a residential section of a mountainous area; the


Colorful artwork—a favorite among touristsCourtesy of Ministry of Tourism of Haiti

colonial-style Montana, situated on a hillside with spectacular views;and the elegant resort of Villa Créole.

Outside the CapitalThe Côte des Arcadins, a strip of coast between the mountains andthe sea, begins 10 or 15 miles north of the capital. It is home to ClubMed’s Magic Haiti and a number of other resorts. Someday this coastmay become much more widely developed for tourism.

Jacmel, on the south coast, is a two-hour drive from the capital. Thisformer coffee export center has some of the island’s best beaches andsome medium-priced and inexpensive hotels. Its rundown atmospherestill retains the island’s best French-colonial architecture, and its loca-tion on a hill overlooking a bay adds to its charm. Those staying in thecapital area for most of their trip may wish to spend a day or two here.

Cap Haïtien, on the north coast, was once a rich French out-post. Today it is the island’s second-largest city and retainsmore character than Port-au-Prince. The trip from the capitalto Cap Haïtien takes about 40 minutes by plane or four to fivehours by car. What makes Cap Haïtien particularly attractive isits proximity to Haiti’s two greatest man-made sights: SansSouci Palace and the Citadelle, a UNESCO-classified WorldHeritage Site. These structures, close to the nearby town ofMilot, were built by Henri Christophe, self-crowned kingof northern Haiti from 1811 to 1820.

Today not much remains of the palace of Sans Souci. Itwas destroyed by an earthquake in 1842, but even theruins are impressive. Christophe had hoped to emulate aFrench palace, such as Versailles. Though he fell short, its extravagancewhen compared to the lot of the common Haitian was as apparent thenas it is today.

The Citadelle is located on a clifftop 3,000 feet above Cap Haïtien andthe Caribbean Sea. This fortress was supposedly built to protect theking and his minions from invasions that never came. Its constructionrequired the labor of 200,000 conscripted former slaves. The Citadellecan be reached by a long uphill walk or a horse or mule ride. Visitorsshould wear comfortable clothes and proper shoes for either the walkor the ride.

Clients staying at “Le Cap,” as Cap Haïtien is known locally, will ofcourse visit these two sites. Those staying in Port-au-Prince orPétionville must decide whether they want to make the trip, which usu-ally entails at least one overnight in the Cap Haïtien area. Whether they


The Citadelle

Courtesy of Ministry of Tourism of Haiti

should fly or take a long, tiring road trip is another consideration. Theroad trip will enable them to see the Haitian countryside and people upclose, whereas the flight will give them a bird’s-eye view of the moun-tainous terrain.

What’s Special about Haiti?Haiti’s languid yet cosmopolitan French-West Indian ambiance oncemade it a gem of the Caribbean: that atmosphere can still be savoredby those who look for it. Its people and its culture have always beenwhat made this country extraordinary, and so it is today. Art, religion,food, language, dance, music, and almost every other aspect of cultureare expressed vibrantly and are deeply felt in Haiti, and await the dis-cerning traveler.

Island CultureHaiti attracts visitors for many reasons other than sun, sand, and fun.Its mixture of French and African culture is one of the most fascinatingand unique in the Western Hemisphere. The dynamic colors of itsprimitif paintings make its art preeminent in the Caribbean.

Though 70 percent of Haitians are Catholic and 30 percent areProtestant, it is estimated that half of them practice voodoo. Voodooismprofoundly influences the lives of Haitians with its belief in ancestorworship and communication by trance with the deities. Elements ofmagic, dance, music and drumming, and possession of the body by spir-its are all part of the cult. Actual voodoo ceremonies are authentic reli-gious events not meant for tourists. This does not mean that visitorscannot or would not ever be invited to attend; but an invitation is rareand comes only to those deemed to have the capacity to participate tosome degree, if only as observers. It is not something for visitors’amusement or even their education. Replicas of voodoo dances andmusic are occasionally performed at shows for tourists, but they shouldnot be confused with the real thing.

The French-inspired Haitian cuisine is one of the pleasures of the coun-try. Local specialties include lambi (conch), homard and langouste (ofthe lobster family), griots (pork marinated in lemon and salt, fried, andserved with a hot spicy sauce), and rice and beans (found just abouteverywhere). These dishes are almost always accompanied by friedbananas, breadfruit, yams, or some other type of carbohydrate.


In the early 1940s,Dewitt Peters, anAmerican professor, fellunder the spell ofHaitian naif paintingand founded a show-case where artists coulddisplay their works. TheCentre d’Art drew col-lectors from around theworld and inspiredartists who put Haitianart on the internationalmap.

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Celebrations and Special EventsCarnival is the main celebration in Haiti. The primary festivities occuron the three days before Ash Wednesday. Typical of other Caribbeancarnivals, there are floats, dancers, and much merriment. Other celebra-tions include January 1, which is Haitian Independence Day, plus eachtown’s or city’s patron-saint-day observances.

Dining and EntertainmentMost visitors will choose to have lunch amid the bustle of downtownPort-au-Prince and dinner in Pétionville, where most fine dining estab-lishments are located. If visitors are staying downtown, they may wishto do the reverse. Top restaurants generally feature French and/orCreole cuisine, but plenty of other ethnic cuisines are represented aswell. Eating at one of the better hotel restaurants can be an excellentchoice here.

Most first-time visitors will want to see one of the fairly authentic re-creations of a voodoo ceremony. Otherwise, nightlife centers aroundthe large hotels, especially those with casinos. The Pétionville hotelsand bars are closest to what would be considered the “in scene” inPort-au-Prince.

Cruise CallHaiti’s rich culture and art made it a popular port of call in the past.Ships are beginning to return, after a hiatus during the civil unrest ofthe early 1990s. Both Port-au-Prince, the island’s stimulating capital,and Cap Haïtien, near Sans Souci and the Citadelle, may be used regu-larly as ports again in the future.

In the past 15 years, the most frequently used port has been the smalltown and beach location of Labadie, just west of Cap Haïtien. RoyalCaribbean Cruise Line uses it mainly as a beach-picnic stop, thoughtours to Sans Souci, the Citadelle, and Cap Haïtien are also available ifconditions warrant.

Selling HaitiHaiti will appeal to those who long for a place imbued with spiritualmeaning and who enjoy a genuinely open, friendly, and soulful people.Culture enthusiasts and those who want a firsthand look at unfoldinginternational politics are other markets. Artists, art collectors, and art


Haitians prepare meatin a somewhat unusualmanner. All types ofmeat—pork, beef,turkey, goat—are driedin the sun (often on theroof) for 24 hours, marinated, and thengrilled. For carnivores,this Haitian specialty isa must-try.

Another tasty traditionis a visit to theBarbancourt Distilleryto sample its rums,known as some of thebest in the Caribbean.Barbancourt can bereached easily from the capital, butprospective visitorsshould inquire first tomake sure it is open.

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dealers are prime candidates to see the local scene. They might bejoined by gourmands who relish the opportunity to enjoy creative fareat moderate prices. Haiti is not for those who want a conventionalbeach vacation without anything marring their peace of mind.

Haiti is not a dangerous country for those who plan their trips well.But conventional travelers will have difficulty dealing with the obviouspoverty of such a sizable portion of the population. Check the currentsituation and reserve with trusted operators or hotels that will provideguides or guidance for the traveler.

Being the first to offer Haiti as it emerges from its recent past could bea well-appreciated service to appropriate clients. Its art, religion, andcuisine will amaze them; they would have to go to Brazil or Africa tofind a culture equal to Haiti’s.

Island SecretHaiti has two smaller islands off its shores. Those who want to see alocation before tourism changes its character can visit Île de la Tortue(Tortuga Island or Turtle Island). It lies off the northern peninsula andhas a number of nice beaches and a rugged interior. Plans are afoot todevelop Île de la Tortue as a future destination, though it may not hap-pen overnight. Currently, there are no organized hotels, so the island isbest seen on a day trip by ferry or rented boat. Île de la Gonâve(Gonâve Island) is off the Côte des Arcadins. This impoverished islandis densely populated and has a rugged, deforested, mountainous interior. It is much larger than La Tortue, but it too has no accommo-dations at present. (Tourists can usually find room with a local family ifthey wish to stay.)

Key Points about Haiti• Port-au-Prince

• Strong culture

• Cap Haïtien and Labadie

• Sans Souci Palace and the Citadelle

• Political challenges

• Shares island of Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic


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For More InformationConsulate of Haiti271 Madison Avenue, 17th FloorNew York, NY 10016Phone: 212-697-9767Fax: 212-681-6991

Secretary of Tourism in Haiti4 Rue LégitimePort-au-Prince, HaitiPhone: (011) 509-232-143E-mail: tourisme@set-haiti-orgWeb site: www.haititourisme.com




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The Spanish-speaking Dominican Republic occupies the eastern two-thirds of the island of Hispaniola, sharing it with Haiti. This Latin

country ranks among the top three in the Caribbean in numbers of airpassengers to and from the United States. Much of this traffic is due tothe country’s large population, the second largest in the Caribbean. Alsothere are many Dominican U.S. residents and citizens of Dominicandescent. But its tourism infrastructure is also one of the largest in theCaribbean. It has more hotel rooms than any other Caribbean island,more than 40,000 as of the year 2000 and growing rapidly.

The Dominican Republic’s size, about twice that of New Hampshire,lends itself to a wide choice of sightseeing and activities. It has vast nat-ural beauty in its forests and mountains (including the highest mountainin the Caribbean), colonial architecture in its Spanish cities, and greatbeaches on all three of its coasts. Casinos and a Latin-inspired nightlifeadd to the mix. Some of its lavish resorts are world famous, and yet thisis one of the only places in the Caribbean where a budget traveler canfind comfortable accommodations, often on or near a beautiful beach,and sometimes even in high season.

Historical BackgroundColumbus landed on Hispaniola on his first voyage, established a forton the north coast, and left men to protect it. When he returned in1493, he found that his men had been killed by the Indians and thefort had been destroyed. In 1496 he chose the south coast to establishSanto Domingo, giving it the distinction of being the oldest Europeantown in the Western Hemisphere.

When the Spanish realized that the island was not filled with the goldand riches that they sought, they lost interest and allowed the Frenchto take over the western third of the island (now Haiti). The Frenchcolony prospered, but the Spanish section suffered from neglect. Inthe 1700s and 1800s, Haiti attempted to take over the entire island anumber of times (and succeeded for short durations), but each timethe heavily Spanish population retained or regained its separateness

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: Dominican Republic • 139

Fast FactsLand Area19,120 square miles

Population9 million

CapitalSanto Domingo

LanguagesSpanish, some English

Time ZoneUTC -4 or AST (EST +1). It does notobserve daylight-saving time.

Drive onRight

CurrencyDominican peso


DominicanRepublic

from Haiti. Eventually, in 1844, the Dominican Republic achievedcomplete independence, making it the second-oldest independentnation in the Caribbean.

The Dominican Republic’s people saw little freedom in the first half of the1900s. The military dictator, Rafael Trujillo, was assassinated in 1961 after30 years in power. The political and social turmoil that ensued promptedthe United States to send marines in for the second time in the 20th century, to help establish the conditions for peace. Today the DominicanRepublic has a freely elected government and is one of the fastest-growingtourist destinations in the Caribbean. Tens of millions of dollars have beeninvested in the country’s tourism infrastructure. In terms of available hotelrooms, the Dominican Republic ranks number one in the region; in termsof overnight stays in U.S. tourist arrivals, it ranks fourth.

Arrival and Location BriefingMajor airports are located in the three strategic tourist areas: SantoDomingo, Punta Cana, and Puerto Plata. Santo Domingo’s Airport is16 miles east of the city.

The airport at La Romana, between Santo Domingo and Punta Cana,also receives daily flights from Miami. Those spending all their time atthe Casa de Campo resort will appreciate a flight into La Romanainstead of the longer transfer from the airport at Santo Domingo.Santiago, Barahona, and Samaná have airports for internal flights andare expanding for international arrivals as well. When booking clients,be sure to check these airports’ current status; as tourism grows, so toowill your choice of airports.

The size of the Dominican Republic means that your clients can enjoyseveral destinations in one. The choices are numerous—for example, abig-city vacation, with occasional day excursions to the beach; an all-inclusive resort, from moderate to luxury category; a small hotel orinn on the beach, with a rental car to explore nearby sights and beach-es. No vacationer will see all of the island in just one trip.

Hotels tend to be concentrated in three major locations, though thereare plenty of smaller lodgings scattered in between and in the interior.Though roads and transportation are very good in the DominicanRepublic (in marked contrast with its Hispaniolan sister, Haiti), the vastmajority of visitors will spend their entire vacation in one of three areas:

1. Santo Domingo and the south coast

2. Punta Cana and the east coast

3. Puerto Plata and the north coast


All three locations have major airports receiving direct flights from theUnited States, Canada, and Europe. Ecotravelers and outdoor adventurers may try the Barahona area in the southwest or Pico Duarteand other mountainous areas in the interior.

Because of its size and large tourism infrastructure, the DominicanRepublic has one of the widest arrays of sports activities in the entireCaribbean. In particular, it is a golfer’s paradise, with numerous coursesaround the island. Three of the most famous courses are at the Casa deCampo resort. The Dominican Republic is one of the leading windsurfing locations in the region and boasts the highest mountain inthe Caribbean (which can be reached via a two-day trek). Visitors canalso indulge in mountain-biking, canyoning, and whitewater-rafting—sports options that few (if any) other Caribbean destinations offer.

Local TransportationMost vacationers get along fine with transfers to their resort and occasional buses, minivans, and taxis for travel along the coast or intothe interior. However, renting a car is a good option for those whowant to see a lot of the countryside beyond their resort area, or whowant the convenience of traveling up and down the coasts samplingother beaches, restaurants, and nightspots. Roads are excellent in mostplaces, in marked contrast with those in Haiti.

Major buses with regular routes, gua-guas (minibuses, vans, or busesthat operate whenever they can put together a full load), and sharedtaxis circulate the entire country. The in-town versions of gua-guas andshared taxis are called publicos and carros, respectively. Taxi-motorcyclesare another option. The passenger just hops on the back and hangs onto the driver.


Santo Domingo, “La Capital” Santo Domingo, while not a resort area, is a cosmopolitan mix ofmuseums, boutiques, historic sites, and evening activities, includingcasinos and discothèques. It combines Old World charm in its colonialsection, modern sophistication in its fashionable new center, and Latinappeal day and night.

The Colonial City, with more than two square miles of Spanish architecture, is one of the most striking Spanish districts in the WesternHemisphere. This is where the colonizers erected the New World’s first


monastery, cathedral, hospital, and fortress. Today this compact area isstill a vibrant, living part of the town. Many of its buildings are museums that document the Caribbean’s earliest history, both Indianand European. The Colonial City has been declared a World HeritageSite by UNESCO.

Among the sights to see are the Cathedral of Santa María inMenor, where Columbus’ remains lay until October 1992. Uponthe 500th anniversary of his discovery of the New World, theywere transferred to the Columbus Lighthouse. The lighthouse,which has 149 searchlights, has a unique architecture—it is builtin the shape of a “pyramid cross.” It is both a tourist attractionand a cultural center. First planned in the early 1920s, the light-house was finally completed for the anniversary in 1992.

The old city holds numerous other streets and plazas, wherethe ladies of court promenaded; Casa Colón, the castle-house where Colombus’ son Diego lived and which today isa museum; and the ruins of San Francisco Monastery,which is floodlit at night. The colonial and the modern

areas of the city come together in Independence Park where the ruinsof the colonial wall run beside the mausoleum of the fathers of themodern state. Suggest that clients take a walking tour of the old townstarting with El Conde, the main pedestrian walking mall.

The modern section of the city should not be missed either. An impressive cultural area, the Plaza de la Cultura, holds the Museum ofDominican Man, the National Theater, the National Library, theMuseum of Natural History, and the Gallery of Modern Art. Fewplaces in the Caribbean have as much art and culture as do the colonialand modern sections of the Dominican capital. A three-mile Malecón(seaside promenade) of tall palms, tourist hotels, and sea breezes stretch-es along the Caribbean Sea. A huge botanical garden and a zoo are otherattractions in this city, whose metropolitan population tops 3 million.

Mid-rise, resort-style, top-of-the-line hotels are located along theMalecón and in the center of the city. Many have business, convention,and large meeting facilities, though there are even larger resorts elsewhere on the island. The colonial district holds a small selection ofsmaller, atmospheric hostelries in historic edifices, as well as a numberof budget choices.

The South CoastEast of the capital along the south coast, white-sand beaches link majorresort areas that are little more than 15 miles apart. New highwaysopened in 2000, connecting these resorts to Santo Domingo. Thus,


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those staying in La Capital can easily get to fabulous beach areas, whilethose staying at beach resorts can reach the capital’s sights, shops,restaurants, and nighttime entertainment.

Boca Chica, the first of these resort areas, is actually closer to LasAmericas International Airport than is Santo Domingo. Boca Chica,once a picturesque fishing village, has a mixture of a very casual butlively international travelers, many from Europe, and local beachgoersin a classic tropical setting of swaying palms on an aquamarine bay. Infact, Boca Chica’s beach is the largest reef-protected lagoon in theCaribbean. Three major resorts and a casino are located here.

About ten miles east of Boca Chica are the more upscale beach townsof Guayacanes and Juan Dolio. They are somewhat less frenetic thanBoca Chica, but boast twice as many resorts and hotels along theirmiles of beaches. Farther east is San Pedro de Macorís. This industrialtown has endowed the U.S. major leagues with numerous baseballstars, including hometown hero Sammy Sosa. Its baseball stadium wasremodeled for the 2000 winter season.

The area around La Romana, another 30 miles east, contains exquisitebeaches and the offshore wildlife preserves of Catalina and Saona,which are unspoiled islets of the National Park of the East. The area’snumber-one claim to fame for visitors is Casa de Campo, the mostrenowned resort in the country and one of the most well known in theCaribbean. The resort boasts 150 luxury two- to four-bedroom villas,10 international restaurants, two 18-hole championship golf courses,polo grounds, and a shooting center. Casa de Campo is also known forits horseback-riding.

Punta Cana and the East CoastThough it is less than two hours northeast of La Romana, Punta Canais a separate destination and tourist zone. Twenty-five years ago this areawas an isolated paradise with 20 miles of pristine beach, but it receivedfew visitors. Today there are 30-plus resort complexes with more than13,000 rooms. A number of the resorts are all-inclusives, including fourproperties from the Spanish-based Sol Meliá chain and a Club Med.

The Punta Cana International Airport receives more than 70 flightsweekly from a dozen European cities as well as Canada, the UnitedStates, and South America. Most arrivals come to enjoy the many facilities and activities of the resorts and the natural setting rather thanto visit the rest of the island. Hotels and beaches in the Bávaro and ElMacao area are an extension of the Punta Cana area.

If vacationers want a bit of a break from the idyllic beaches, they can


Columbus allegedly liesin state both in Seville,Spain, and in SantoDomingo, DominicanRepublic. According tolegend, the Discovererwanted to be buried inSanto Domingo’scathedral, but becauseit wasn’t finished, hewas buried in thecathedral in Seville. Hisdaughter-in-law thensupposedly brought hisremains back to SantoDomingo for interment.But in 1586 the citywas captured by SirFrancis Drake, theEnglish buccaneer, andthe bishop ordered alltomb inscriptionsremoved to preventdesecration. Theyremained erased fornearly three centuries.But in 1877 workersrepairing the cathedraldiscovered an urn withthe inscription, “theillustrious baron donCristóbal Colón, firstadmiral of America.”

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visit Manati Park Bávaro (an ecological and animal preserve), anauthentic replica of a Taino Indian village, or the interior. The town ofHiguey, lying midway between La Romana and Punta Cana, containsBasilica Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia, where the island’s patronsaint is honored.

Puerto Plata and the North CoastSometimes called the Amber Coast because of the large deposits foundhere, the north coast holds more than 17,000 of the country’s rooms.The historic city of Puerto Plata was once a pirate lair and later athriving port. It is filled with lacy gingerbread houses of pastel colors,giving it the romantic atmosphere of an earlier time. Most agree thatPuerto Plata is the country’s loveliest city. Tourists can take the teleferico (sky lift) to the top of Mt. Isabel de Torres, 2,600 feet abovethe city. They can also visit San Felipe Fort, shop at the amber market,and see the Amber Museum. Otherwise, Puerto Plata is a peacefulcity—visitors can enjoy the sand and sea nearby.

There are hotels within the city proper, but most are located to theeast, especially in the area of magnificent beaches of Playa Dorada.This is the major tourist area of the north coast, with tennis courts, agolf course, all-inclusives, all-suite resorts, horseback-riding, and fullvacation facilities.

A bit farther east is Sosúa, home to German-Jewish settlers who fledEurope before 1940. Sosúa still has visible signs of its background;German bakeries and dairies, and the area in general, seem to have special appeal to Canadian and European vacationers. It has many smallhotels and villas, but the beaches around it have a good selection oflarger new resorts also. Another 15 minutes east of Sosúa is Cabarete,which is the windsurfing capital of the Dominican Republic and one ofthis sport’s top locations in the Caribbean.

The Rest of the IslandBarahona, along the southwestern coast, is an ideal region for natureand adventure travelers. Dense forests, sparkling rivers, and toweringgreen mountains await the few who venture here. The lowest point inthe Caribbean (a salt lake more than 100 feet below sea level) is in thisarea. Visitors are few, and traditional village life has changed little. Butthe beaches here are as irresistible as any, making it a special place for thatparticular client who will appreciate its low-key atmosphere and beauty.

Santiago, south of Puerto Plata, is the country’s second-largest city,but it is not a tourist destination. The town, along with its cigar and


In June 1999, a well-publicized (and inten-tional) sinking of acargo ship off LaRomana created anartificial reef habitat formarine life and a newattraction for scubadivers. Tourists are alsoable to view the under-water sanctuary andcolorful sea creaturesthrough glass-bottomboats.

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rum factories, can be visited from the coast. Farther south are theDominican Republic’s and the Caribbean’s highest mountains. PicoDuarte is the highest peak, at 10,417 feet (3,175 meters); it is locatedbetween the mountain towns of Constanza and Jarabacoa. Hiking tothe top of the mountain is a real trek; hikers must spend one or twonights at mountain huts and should wear proper clothing for coldweather. A guide, permit, and supplies are needed before embarking onthe trail. There are other hiking trails nearby. Less athletic visitorsmight want to stop at Constanza and Jarabacoa, which provide a pleas-ant, cooling alpine break from the coast.

The most prominent geographic feature on the country’s north coast isthe long thumb of the Samaná Peninsula, which creates the Bay ofSamaná. Somewhat isolated from the big tourist areas, it remains wildand sparsely populated. More hardy visitors can enjoy patches of tropical jungle, small villages, turquoise bays, and dream beaches. Inwinter, the bay is home to hundreds of humpback whales. The city ofSamaná was settled by two shiploads of freed American slaves, andmany residents still speak English as their first language.

What’s Special about the Dominican Republic?The Dominican Republic’s size, Spanish heritage, and huge number ofhotels are some of the things that distinguish it from other islands in theCaribbean. Casa de Campo is one of the largest and most famous resortcomplexes in the Caribbean; other luxury-class hotel chains (such as SolMeliá, which has six properties here) are growing rapidly. And yet theDominican Republic is perhaps the best choice in the Caribbean for thoseon a modest budget as well. Its vast hotel stock includes budget choices,not only in town but also close to or right on the beach in some areas.

Because the Dominican Republic shares the island of Hispaniola with Haiti, adventurous travelers have an opportunity to visit two destinations in one trip. However, few make the journey.

The famous golf courses at Casa de Campo and the numerous choices atPlaya Dorada, Juan Ocho, Playa Grande, and Punta Cana make theDominican Republic one of the leading golfing destinations in theCaribbean. It is also a major destination for North American windsurfers.

Island CultureThe majority of Dominicans are of mixed-race heritage (European-WestIndian or European-African). The European ancestry is mostly Spanish.


The Spanish that is spoken in the Dominican Republic is probably closer to European Spanish than is the case with most of its Latinneighbors. The predominant religion is Roman Catholicism. The country has had its share of acclaimed writers, many of whom write onpolitical themes. One of the most accessible novels, easily found in theUnited States, is In the Time of the Butterflies. Based on a true story, itis set in the Dominican Republic during the time of the Trujilloregime. The author is Dominican-born Julia Alvarez, who is now anAmerican citizen.

People often associate flamenco with Spain and the tango withArgentina. The influence of merengue on Dominican life is as important to their culture. The spirit of merengue infuses everydayDominican culture in all walks of society. Traditional merengue is moreof a folk music with an emphasis on the lyrics; in popular big-bandmerengue, the rhythm and beat are the important elements. To preparefor a trip to the Dominican Republic, visitors might want to listen tomerengue music and take a few dance lessons. Tapes and CDs of themusic make excellent purchases for personal memories or gifts.

With its diverse terrain and large size, the Dominican Republic canoffer a varied cuisine of completely homegrown foods, rather than relying on imports. Dominican food specialties include two favorites,either of which could be called the national dish:

• La bandera (the flag), a combination of red beans, white rice, andstewed beef

• Sancocho, a thick stew made with as many as seven different meats

Fried plantains are common and arroz con pollo (rice and chicken) isvery popular, as are many other Latin-Caribbean specialties made withpork or seafood. Meals are often topped off with a tasty cornmeal cus-tard called majarete. The local rums are world class, and the coffeerivals some of Jamaica’s best.

The country’s sporting pastime, as in other Latin-Caribbean countries,is baseball, called pelota locally. The most famous Dominican of thepast few years, both here and abroad, is the home-run-hitting slugger,Sammy Sosa of the Chicago Cubs. Sosa, who (along with MarkMcGwire) surpassed the home-run records of Babe Ruth and RogerMaris, is a national hero in the Dominican Republic. But he is only oneof 66 Dominicans who were playing in the U.S. major leagues duringthe 2000 season. In the Dominican Republic, the baseball season runsfrom October through January. Many future major leaguers, and somecurrent ones honing their skills, are sure to be playing.


Shoppers will want to look for the colorful trays, hammocks, wovenbags, and baskets that are made locally. A tape or CD of merenguemusic also makes a great gift or souvenir. Amber lovers will be in ecstasy; the stone can be found in diverse sizes and shapes, with a greatvariety of fossilized insects and plants caught within. It is the nationalprecious stone of the Dominican Republic.

Celebrations and Special EventsThe country’s two premier events are Carnival (late February/earlyMarch) and the lively Merengue Festival held annually in SantoDomingo (late July/early August). In the Dominican Republic,Carnival is not celebrated at exactly the same time as in other Catholiccountries; rather, it is celebrated the week before and after February 27,to coincide with the country’s independence day. Check yearly for exactdates. Every town also has a fiesta in honor of its patron saint.

The Dominican Republic has the distinction of being the site of the PanAmerican Games in 2003; except for the Olympics, this is the number-one international multi-sports competition for U.S. athletes. The gamesare held every four years, one year before the Summer Olympics, and allof the countries in the Western Hemisphere are represented. The country’s tourism infrastructure allows many visitors to witness thegames, which bring plenty of international publicity to the host country.

Dining and EntertainmentThough most of the nightlife is found in Santo Domingo and PuertoPlata, every town or village has discothèques and merengue clubs.Dining times are later, similar to those in Spain. El Conde in the down-town colonial area of the capital is a good place to start. Disco-hoppingat nightspots that open after dinner, and stay open till dawn, is virtuallyan after-dinner ritual.

Just about every coastal resort has its own nightlife venues, and theyfeature samba, bossa nova, reggae, jazz, salsa, and other Latin rhythms.A number of major resorts have their own casinos. Piano bars featurevocalists and small musical groups playing various rhythms. Las Palmas,a posh club with a terrace open to the sea, was decorated by the coun-try’s most famous designer, Oscar de la Renta. The restaurant andnightclub of Meson de la Cava are in an unusual setting: a natural cave50 feet underground.


Cruise CallIn the Dominican Republic, land-based vacationers will not be inundated by thousands of cruise day-trippers. Santo Domingo is themost popular port of call and can easily handle the influx. From theport, taxis and tours visit the city, but a long walk (40 minutes or so)will take tourists to Colonial City, where most of the interesting sightsare. Those opting to walk one way could always take a taxi back, especially after indulging in some shopping on El Conde.

Other ships call at La Romana, also on the south coast. Passengers mayhave a choice of using the facilities of a beachfront resort such as Casade Campo or having a picnic on a private island just offshore.

Ships occasionally stop at Puerto Plata, allowing arrivals to buy someamber, visit Fort Felipe, or take the sky lift to Mt. Isabel.

Selling the Dominican RepublicThe Dominican Republic has such variety that most Caribbean clientscan find an ideal spot somewhere. It has more budget hotels thanalmost anywhere else but also has top-notch resorts in both first-classand deluxe categories. Large charter groups from North America andEurope are common, and many of the hotels and resorts tend to belarge. Some travelers might prefer a smaller island that they can sightseeon one trip or one with more intimate accommodations.

Those who want to be close to Latin nightlife and a big city should optfor a resort on the south coast. Those who are happy to stay at theirresort and need little excitement other than miles of beach and otherresorts can choose Punta Cana. The conventional tourist who wantsvariety and a few other options might prefer the north coast. However,these generalizations don’t stand up for very long. Most vacationerswill be happy with any of the three locations, though the south coasttends to be a little more specialized.

The large number of hotel rooms allows clients to take advantage ofgreat off-season bargains. Some of the major resorts, even Casa deCampo, can be surprisingly affordable. The country’s mountains andrivers add another marketing dimension to the Dominican Republic.

Island SecretThe Dominican Republic’s national parks provide numerous naturetravel opportunities. Isla Cabritos, an island in the middle of Lake


Enriquillo, is a national park; it lies in the far southwestern section of the country, near the Haitian border. The park has a semi-desertenvironment and is home to the Western Hemisphere’s largest collection of American crocodiles, along with various species of iguanasand birds. Los Haitses, in the eastern part of the country oppositeSamaná Peninsula, is a combination of mangrove swamps and tropicalforest. Jaragua Park is home to the country’s largest population offlamingos, who share the park with many other bird species (10 areendemic to the Dominican Republic).

Keys Points about the Dominican Republic• Santo Domingo and the south coast

• Punta Cana and the east coast

• Puerto Plata and the north coast

• Strong Spanish influence

• Large selection of accommodations

• Shares island of Hispaniola with Haiti

For More InformationDominican Republic Tourist Office136 East 57th Street, Suite 803New York, NY 10022Phone: 888-374-6361 or 212-588-1012Fax: 212-588-1015E-mail: [email protected] site: www.dominicana.com.do



One way to visit Haiti(perhaps the easiestway) is to take anorganized tour thatdeparts from theDominican Republic.Tours cover most of thekey spots mentioned inthe chapter on Haiti,from Cap Haïtien toPort-au-Prince.

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Arecibo

Ponce

Cayey Humacao

Fajardo

IslaVerde

Luquillo

Vieques

Culebra

Yabucoa

Mayagüez

San Juan

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CatañoEl Yunque

La Parguera

BioluminescentBay

Dorado

DoradoBeach

ElMorroFort

Rio Camuy Cave Park/Arecibo Observatory

Rio AbajoForest Reserve

Guanica Dry Forest

Mona

C E N T R A L M O U N T A I N SCabo Rojo



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PUERTO RICO

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Lush, verdant Puerto Rico (PWAIR toh REE koh) is the smallest (mid-way between the size of Delaware and Connecticut) and easternmost

of the Greater Antilles, yet it looms largest on the tourism scene. Visitorscan choose from a wealth of experiences, natural sights, and man-madepleasures. Resorts, high-rises, casinos, and lavish entertainment coexistwith rain forests, mountains, and magical lagoons of bioluminescent light.

Puerto Rico contains 78 towns, many of which are on the island’s 270miles of beach. San Juan, the biggest of all, has 1 million residents andis an amalgam of at least four different “cities” surrounded by a largermetro area. Yet less than an hour’s drive away are rain forests andmountains in nature reserves and national forests.

Puerto Rico is multicultural as few other islands are: its Spanish traditions and spirit are wedded to a West Indian past and thrive amid a tropical Caribbean lifestyle, sometimes enveloped in a patina ofAmerican commerce, finance, and custom.

San Juan is the hub of the Caribbean; the connecting point for almostevery island in this vast sea of tourism; and home port to more cruiseships than any other city in the world except Miami.

Travel to and from the United States is boosted by the island’s commonwealth status, making all Puerto Ricans U.S. citizens. Travelerscan come and go between the mainland U.S. and Puerto Rico withoutdocumentation other than their usual picture identification card forflights. Non-U.S. citizens will not have to show documentation to travel (they should have it with them at all times, however, just as theywould traveling from state to state in the United States.)

Historical BackgroundBorinquen, as the native Taino Indians called this land, was romantically renamed Puerto Rico (“rich port”) by the Spanish soonafter conquest. However, their hope for gold and riches faded after a fewdecades. But because of the island’s size, Spain doggedly held onto itthroughout the next four centuries, unlike the many smaller Caribbeanislands that Spain quickly abandoned. The Spanish used the island as amilitary outpost and built massive defenses such as the fortress of El

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: Puerto Rico • 151

Puerto RicoFast FactsLand Area3,435 square miles


CapitalSan Juan

LanguagesSpanish, English

Time ZoneUTC -4 or AST (EST +1). It does notobserve daylight-saving time.

Drive onRight

CurrencyU.S. dollar


Morro, which today is Old San Juan’s major sight. Juan Ponce de León,who later went to Florida to seek the Fountain of Youth, was the island’sfirst governor and is buried in San Juan Bautista Cathedral.

In the 1600s and 1700s, sugar plantations and other crops helped theisland’s economy thrive, due in no small measure to the slave trade andto Spain’s protection against Dutch, English, French, and pirate forces.In 1809 Spain recognized Puerto Rico as an overseas province andgranted it the right to send representatives to the Spanish government.As Spain began to lose its Latin American empire, loyal colonistsescaped to Puerto Rico and helped the island expand and prosper.

Puerto Rico’s relative success and Spain’s weakened hand created a cry for freedom on the island, and in 1897 Spain granted it limitedautonomy. In 1898 this same weakness led to U.S. intervention inCuba and to the Spanish-American War. Because Spain was stillnominally in control of Puerto Rico, the United States demanded thatSpain surrender it upon signing the peace treaty. The United Statesinstalled a military government to administer the island and laterestablished it as an unincorporated territory.

In 1917 the U.S. Congress passed an act granting Puerto Ricans U.S.citizenship. The island’s economy soon began to strengthen as invest-ment and federal development integrated it somewhat into the U.S.economic sphere. By 1951 Puerto Rico acquired the right to establishits own government and constitution, and the following year the islandwas declared a semiautonomous commonwealth. Puerto Ricans receivemost of the benefits that come with U.S. citizenship; they are also sub-ject to some obligations of citizenship, including, in the past, militaryservice. However, they do not pay federal income tax, do not vote forpresident, and do not have direct representation in Congress.

At times loud and even violent debate has occurred as to whether PuertoRico should become independent, remain a commonwealth, or becomethe 51st U.S. state. This discussion continues to the present day, but inreality, a recent referendum has shown that only 3 percent of the popula-tion favors independence. Over the years, the balance of opinion hasshifted back and forth between those favoring the status quo and thosebacking statehood. Exactly what the future holds for Puerto Rico in rela-tion to the United States remains uncertain, but what does seem certainis that it will continue its American connection in some form.

Arrival and Location BriefingAccessibility to Puerto Rico is more akin to that of other major U.S.regions rather than other Caribbean islands. Nearly two dozen U.S.


cities have direct service to San Juan’s airport, the largest in theCaribbean. From San Juan, visitors can reach almost every island in theCaribbean, most by nonstop or direct flights. A ferry operates betweenthe western city of Mayagüez and the Dominican Republic.

The San Juan area contains dozens of hotels, and location depends on aclient’s travel motivation. Those seeking to be in the heart of theaction—beaches, casinos, nightlife—will opt to stay at or near theCondado Beach area. Pre- and post-cruisegoers, culture enthusiasts,and more sedate types may prefer to stay in Old San Juan.

Those coming on business can stay in the Miramar district or otherareas closer to commercial enterprises, but in truth most will gravitatetoward Condado, where there is much more hotel selection andactivity. A second action-packed beach area, Isla Verde, is away fromthe main part of the city but closer to the airport. Isla Verde has plentyof large resorts, including a new Ritz-Carlton; many vacationers preferthis area rather than Condado. Other candidates for Isla Verde arethose who want just a glimpse of San Juan or those who are really hereto explore the rest of the island rather than the big city.

The golf and country club set who want to be away from the bustle ofthe city may fancy Dorado Beach, a very upscale area west of San Juan.The more rugged eastern tip of the island, an hour or so from thecapital, is another choice; it houses one of the Caribbean’s most famousresorts and many newer ones. Both the northeastern and northwesterncorners of this rectangular island (which is about 100 miles long and35 miles wide) have a good concentration of hotels, beaches, and resortareas. Other accommodations are scattered along the northern andsouthern coasts, and a parador system provides lodging in less-frequented areas of the interior.

Local TransportationTaxi rates from the airport to any location in San Juan are very reason-able, if visitors first obtain a chit to their destination at the GroundTransportation Information desk. Shared minivans that serve specificareas of the city from the airport charge only a few dollars.

Buses run along the strip from Isla Verde to Old San Juan, connectingmost of the major tourist areas of the city; guaguas (vehicles that run setroutes) cover most of the rest of the city. Fares are 25 to 50 cents. A freetrolley circulates through Old San Juan. A ferry service connects OldSan Juan (which is on a peninsula) with the industrial town of Cataño,across the bay. A metro train system is scheduled to open in 2001.


Practically speaking, to see the rest of the island outside of San Juan,the traveler has two choices: a rental car or a tour. Guaguas providepublic transportation to various towns or locations but are not con-ducive to exploring. Many rental car companies operate on the island.Be sure to inform clients ahead of time that speed limits are in milesper hour, distance markers are in kilometers, and gasoline is sold by theliter. Major highways around the island are well maintained, but sec-ondary roads can be narrow or steep, especially in the CentralMountains. Nothing on the island is more than about two and a halfhours from San Juan. While staying in San Juan, most travelers will bebetter off relying on taxis, buses, or guaguas.

Scheduled air service connects San Juan with the major cities of Ponceand Mayagüez as well as the islands of Vieques and Culebra. A busyferry service operates two or three times a day from Fajardo to Viequesand Culebra.


San JuanA walking tour of Old San Juanshould be on every visitor’smust-do list. The seven-square-block area was chosen as aUNESCO World Heritage Sitein 1983 and is one of thehemisphere’s most fascinatingquarters. Founded in 1521,the original city has morethan 400 buildings that havebeen restored in recenttimes in an effort to pre-serve the city’s history.These include some fine examplesof 16th- and 17th-century Spanish colonial architec-ture. Narrow streets paved with stones are lined with graceful wrought-iron balconies decorated with lush hanging plants. Old San Juan isfilled with shops, homes, cafés, monuments, squares, plaques, and peo-ple. The area can be walked in a couple of hours, but at least onewhole day—or better, two half-days—is needed to fully experience thesights. Following are some of the highlights:

• Castillo de San Felipe del Morro, known as El Morro Fort, is a dramatic fort rising 140 feet above the sea on a rocky promontory at


San Juan

Courtesy of PRTC/Len Kaufman

the tip of Old San Juan. It is composed of six massive levels, contain-ing ramps, barracks, dungeons, turrets, towers, and tunnels. Itsuppermost section affords a commanding view of the harbor.

• La Fortaleza, a palace with lovely gardens, was built in 1540. It is theoldest governor’s mansion used as such in the Western Hemisphere.

• Fuerte San Cristóbal, near the Plaza Colón, is an impressivefortress built in 1678. It still dominates the east side of the old city.

• San Jose Plaza, a few blocks away, is lined with the Pablo CasalsMuseum, which holds manuscripts, photographs, recordings, video-tapes of concerts, and the master’s favorite cellos; San Jose Church,a splendid vaulted-ceiling church in the Spanish Gothic style; and theDominican Convent, now restored as the home of the Institute ofPuerto Rican Culture.

• Plaza Colón, at the eastern entrance to the town, has a statue ofChristopher Columbus and is flanked by the former Puerto RicoCasino, the Tapia Theater, and shops and cafés. Five other plazas in the old town provide views of San Juan Bay and are lined withcolonial government buildings, shops, and residences.

• Museums include Casa Blanca (the original home of Ponce de León),the Museum of the Indian, the Museum of the Americas, and theMuseum of Art and History. Casa del Libro, dedicated to the his-tory of books and printing, is home to nearly 5,000 works, many pre-dating 1500, and manuscripts signed by Ferdinand and Isabella.

• Visitors can tour numerous other churches, historic buildings, andthree other forts or military buildings.

Outside of Old San Juan, one of the most popular visits is to theBacardi Rum Distillery, which produces 100,000 gallons of rum daily.The Botanical Gardens and Museum of Contemporary PuertoRican Art are also worth a special trip.

The new Museum of Puerto Rican Art is the island’s first world-classmuseum with a five-acre sculpture garden and 130,000 square feet ofmodern facilities. Exhibitions trace Puerto Rico’s visual arts fromcolonial times to the present. The museum is located in the Santurcesection of San Juan, adjacent to the important tourist area of Condado.

The Island PerimeterPuerto Rico Tourism Company brochures mark out five differentroutes for exploring the island by car. Some are day trips, while others


The largest conventioncenter in Latin Americabroke ground in March2000. Phase I isscheduled forcompletion in October2002, with more than580,000 square feet ofdeveloped space; twomore phases are alsoplanned. This three-partdevelopment, called theAmericas World TradeDistrict, will be locatedon the water near theyacht harbor. Watertaxis will connect it withOld San Juan and theCondado district.

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▲Did you know?cross the entire length of the island and link up with other routes thattake a few days to complete. The following “Around the Island:Attractions” proceed clockwise around the perimeter of the island, andthen move on to the interior and the offshore islands.

Except for San Juan itself, the coast east of San Juan has traditionallybeen the most visited part of Puerto Rico, because it holds two of theisland’s most diverse sights. About two-thirds of the way between thecapital and Fajardo is the Caribbean National Forest, known as ElYunque. A UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, El Yunque is the onlytropical rain forest managed by the U.S. Forest Service. It is one of themost accessible and well-maintained rain forests in the world; visitorscan enjoy its waterfalls, orchids, ferns, and vistas from their car or byhiking one of its 13 marked trails.

The mountain and forest of El Yunque get 240 inches of rain annually.However, a few miles away, at the base of the mountain, is LuquilloBeach. So, in less than an hour, visitors can go from dodging raindropson the mountain to lolling in the sun on the beach. Luquillo is PuertoRico’s most famous and photographed beach, a curved wedge ofgleaming white sand and turquoise water, backed by an enormousgrove of coconut palms. It is also Puerto Rico’s first full-access beachand recreational facilities for wheelchair users.

The town of Fajardo is a jumping-off point for the islands of Culebraand Vieques. Nearby is the Wyndham El Conquistador Resort &Country Club, spectacularly situated atop cliffs just north of the city.


Nature lovers will wantto stop at LasCabezas de San JuanNature Preserve(known locally as ElFaro, after the park’slighthouse). Thepreserve is situated atthe tip or headland(cabeza) of thenortheastern coast. Injust 316 acres, thisecological area offersthe unique character ofseven different tropicalhabitats. Only 230visitors a day areallowed in the park,which they view onboard an open-air tram;the tour is narrated by apark ranger. The parkalso contains PuertoRico’s second-oldestlighthouse and one ofthe island’s threebioluminescent bays(see other twomentioned later).

A waterfall

in El Yunque

on the east coast

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ufman

South of Fajardo, the main road continues through Humacao, withits sugarcane fields; and Yabucoa, nestled in the hills. From there, visitors can take the faster road near the coast or the PanoramicRoute, which goes through the mountains to Cayey, down to thecoast, and then to Ponce (PON say).

Ponce, Puerto Rico’s “second city,” is less than 90 minutes by car fromSan Juan on the direct route. Since 1968, more than 500 of Ponce’shistoric buildings, many in neoclassic and Art Deco style, have beenmeticulously restored. The “Pearl of the South,” as it is known, is acharming city for walking and admiring architecture. Ponce is theisland’s busiest commercial port, but fortunately the city itself liesamong the plains and foothills, a couple of miles from the waterfront.Visitors will not want to miss the wildly colorful Ponce Firehouse(dating from 1833), the Ponce Art Museum, and La Perla Theater,which was originally built in 1864 and later destroyed by earthquake. Anew theater was reconstructed according to the original plans.

Near Ponce is Hacienda Buena Vista, a restored early-19th-centuryplantation, and the Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center, which was excavated in 1975 and dates back to A.D. 700.

West of Ponce and near the town of La Parguera is one of PuertoRico’s major sightseeing opportunities: Bioluminescent Bay. Boatsleave every half hour from dusk until about 10:30 P.M., taking visitorsto observe millions of microscopic luminescent dinoflagellates. These“fireflies of the sea,” as some have called them, light up when they aredisturbed by the slightest movement. This phenomenon is quite rareand is seen only on certain protected shorelines in tropical waters.

Midway on the west coast is the island’s third-largest city, Mayagüez.Mayagüez is more of a commercial and industrial city, but visitors trav-eling around the island will want to stop to see its lovely Plaza Colón,its Art Deco Yagüez Theater, and its historic Post Office building.The principal attraction, however, is the Tropical AgricultureResearch Station. Situated on the grounds of a former plantation, theresearch station displays tropical plants from around the world.

The northwestern tip of the island is another popular beach and resortarea. Almost halfway between this corner and San Juan is Arecibo, theturning-off point for the Arecibo Observatory. Much closer to thecapital is Dorado Beach; it boasts two Hyatt resorts, the Hyatt DoradoBeach and Hyatt Regency Cerromar Beach; an Embassy Suites, due toopen by 2001; and five golf courses.


The Interior and Offshore IslandsAlthough Puerto Rico has a high population density, there are stillrugged and remote places on the island. The Cordillera Central(Central Mountains) run almost the length of the island, separatingthe northern and southern regions. The area resembles the mountainsof Hawaii and is blanketed with a carpet of vegetation, trees, and grasses, though much of it has been extensively logged and cleared atleast once. The mountains serve both as a natural divider (the southernside is much drier and almost desert-like in places) and as a culturalbarrier (more-isolated towns have developed their own customs).

The northwestern corner of the island has its own natural phenomena,typical of which is the area known as karst country. This world-renownedtopography is characterized by haystack-shaped hills and conical sink-holes. Few roads penetrate its thick forests and mazes of hills. Trails invarious states of repair meander through the area’s forest reserves.

A number of the most well-known sights in this rugged interior can beaccessed on roads going south from Arecibo. The Rio Abajo ForestReserve is 5,700 acres of subtropical forest surrounded by rivers andlakes. It is home to 162 plant species, 47 of which are endangered.More famous and not to be missed is Rio Camuy Cave Park, thethird-largest underground river system in the world. Visitors boardtrams that take them down to the mouth of Clara Cave as part of theirvisit to the system’s remarkable sinkholes, caves, and subterraneanstreams. Another tram takes them to a platform overlooking the TresPueblos Sinkhole, which is 650 feet wide and 400 feet deep.

Another must-see is the Arecibo Observatory, which houses the largestradar/radio telescope in the world. The 600-ton platform, suspendedover a 20-acre dish, is set in a sinkhole 565 feet deep. Explanations ofhow the telescope works and what it does are an education in the mostrecent theories of astronomy and atmospheric science.

Puerto Rico’s two major islands, located off its eastern shores, add onemore dimension to its variety as a destination. A large portion of thesmaller one, Culebra, was once used as a gunnery range for the U.S.Navy. Today the island, with its Culebra National Wildlife Refuge, isa nature reserve and home to many rare species of birds and fish. It isalso one of the most important turtle-nesting sites in the Caribbean.Culebra’s unspoiled and arid beaches are a paradise for sun-worshippersand still have only small-scale tourist development.

Vieques (vee AY kase) is the larger of the two islands and has a famousBioluminescent Bay. Its many fine beaches are even more popular, andthe lodging choices are more numerous. Vieques’s first major resort,


Puerto Rico and otherCaribbean islandsboast numerous rainforests, but GuánicaDry Forest is a uniqueUNESCO WorldBiosphere Reserve. Its9,200 acres containmore than 700 speciesof unusual plants andanimals, many of whichare endangered, andsome of which arefound nowhere else onearth. The forest islocated west of Ponce.Nature lovers will alsoenjoy Cabo RojoWildlife Refuge, in thesouthwestern corner ofthe island.

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the 286-room Martineau Bay, debuted at the end of 2000. (Early in2000, some protesters demonstrated against military exercises on theeastern and western sections of the island, which the U.S. Navy hasused for training and bombing runs for many years. At the time ofwriting, negotiations for future use were ongoing, but the island’sbeach areas are, and always have been, accessible to the public.) Othersmall islands and cays lie near Culebra and Vieques and between themand the east coast of Puerto Rico. They are uninhabited and used forday trips and picnics.

What’s Special about Puerto Rico?Puerto Rico has a very special affiliation with the United States thatmakes it unique. Puerto Ricans are U.S. citizens whose main languageis Spanish and whose culture is Hispanic, though the majority of them also speak English. Americans entering Puerto Rico do not need any documents.

San Juan is a huge Latin American city, full of Latin American spirit; itis different from other such cities in that it is truly Latin and Americanat the same time. Fashionable beaches, high-rise resorts, glittering casinos, and world-class golf courses give Puerto Rico a MiamiBeach/Las Vegas/Palm Springs atmosphere built on a foundation ofSpanish custom and culture.

Eighteen major golf courses and four other nine-hole courses combinenatural settings, championship design, few crowds, and reasonableprices. Many of the top ones are along the north coast on either side ofSan Juan.

Major hotels house the island’s casinos. There are 11 in the immediateSan Juan area and another 11 around the island. Most are open from noon to 4:00 A.M., but some are open 24 hours a day. Since 1997, alcohol has been allowed in casinos, and patrons must be 21 years of age.

Puerto Rico also has some of the Caribbean’s most special accommoda-tions. A host of large resorts lead the way: many are in or near San Juan,but others are located in splendid settings around the island’s coasts.Recent construction has added more dimensions to an already largehotel inventory. Besides the deluxe Martineau (which opened onVieques in 2000), the island will soon have its first all-inclusive: in thespring of 2000, construction began on the 980-room twin hotels ofParadisus Sol Meliá, in northeastern Puerto Rico. In July 2001, the firstphase (with 314 rooms) of the Cayo Largo Intercontinental in Fajardo


will open, while a second phase of 220 rooms gets underway. Otherproperties are constructing new additions, and a number of smallerhotel projects are underway around the main island and on Culebra.

Those who desire intimate and personal lodgings also have a widechoice. Few establishments anywhere can compare with the style andtradition of Old San Juan’s El Convento, originally a Carmeliteconvent. Puerto Rico has also adopted the system of paradores (aconcept first developed in Spain). There are currently 19 country inns,ranging from centuries-old haciendas and plantations to small family-run inns, which strive to showcase rural Puerto Rico. They must meetexacting government standards to be part of the parador program.

Puerto Rico’s sheer size and development make it stand out among itsneighbors and enable it to offer what it calls a “magic mix” of facilitiesthat few can match. They include the new convention center; severalfacilities for deep-sea fishing, diving, and water sports; and manymarinas. The island’s Spanish and Native Indian heritage and sites arealso unique. Puerto Rico’s tropical rain forest (the only one in the U.S. national forest system), cave networks, and bioluminescent baysare some of the features that make it a leader in ecotourism as well.There are many more natural sights that have not been mentioned inthe text, but you can research them for clients who enjoy nature travel.

Island CulturePuerto Ricans exhibit many of the cultural attributes of other Latinpeoples. They are passionate in their beliefs, consider music an essentialpart of any social gathering, regard food as mandatory when havingguests, and use lively hand and facial gestures when speaking.Intergenerational ties are strong, and people of all ages easily attend thesame functions. The vast majority of Puerto Ricans are Catholic.

American and Puerto Rican cultures sometimes commingle, but moreoften they exist side by side: a colorful Caribbean or colonial-stylewooden building might sit next to a hard-edged concrete structure;diners in Old San Juan can enjoy asopao (traditional Puerto Rican stewmade with root vegetables and rice) at La Mallorquina (which openedin 1848), while others partake of fajitas or a burger at the Hard RockCafé a block away; jibaros (rural people) often entertain their nuyoricanrelatives, visiting from the Big Apple.

Spanish and English are the island’s official languages, and both aretaught in school. English is spoken in major tourist areas and through-out the island, especially by younger people. However, many middle-


One island resident saidthat all visitors to PuertoRico remember is thecoqui (pronounced “ko-kee”), a tree frog whoseevening “song” is heard,interminably, throughoutthe island.

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aged and older people speak little English. Musical styles in the bigcities and resorts resemble other Latin countries, while the rural townsstill retain many of the original Spanish forms, sprinkled with NativeIndian and Caribbean influences.

Puerto Rican cuisine features many Caribbean dishes, but the islandalso has its own distinctive Creole cuisine, a mixture of Indian, Spanish,and African influences. Sofrito is a sautéed base mixture used in soupsand stews. Most meats are cooked adobo, with a marinade of garlic andoregano. Asopao, stews, and meat pies are popular main dishes. Arrozcon pollo (rice with chicken), lechon asado (roasted pork), a variety ofplantain dishes, and saffron are other fixtures. Popular finales to a mealare fruit, cheeses, and flan. Coffee grown in the island’s interior ranksamong the world’s best.

Among the many good buys on the island are coffee, ron (rum), jewelry, and island crafts such as contemporary art, ceramic tiles, santos (hand-carved wooden religious figurines), cuatros (hand-made10-string guitars), and festival masks (especially from Ponce).

Celebrations and Special EventsTrue to their roots, all of Puerto Rico’s 78 towns have festivals inhonor of their patron saint; many also celebrate pre-Lenten Carnivals.Travelers who are exploring the island would do well to see whichtowns have festivals that week. Most of these celebrations last seven tonine days.

The Casals Festival, held at the Performing Arts Center in early June,will appeal to those who appreciate classical music. The first Tuesday ofthe month (February through May and September through December)is Gallery Night in San Juan; art galleries open their doors to the public from 6:00 to 9:00 P.M.

Dining and EntertainmentSan Juan and other tourist areas offer dining that is similar to thatfound in most U.S. cities and resort areas. American-style, interna-tional, and ethnic restaurants abound, and the hotel restaurants cater to American tastes. However, plenty of smaller restaurants and severallarger ones specialize in local cuisine.

Those who want to sample the culture in one of its most importantmanifestations—that is, through its food—will be interested in theisland’s Mesones Gastronómicos program. More than 30 restaurants


across the islandparticipate(although none inthe San Juanarea). To bemembers, theyare required tooffer the bestlocal specialties,unique to theirparticular area,at reasonableprices, andserved with Puerto Rican hospitality.

Puerto Rico’s entertainment, particularly in San Juan, runs thegamut—from “hot, hot, hot” to cool and jazzy. Casinos tend to bedressy and grand, and Puerto Ricans tend to dress stylishly for weekendnights out. The resort areas boast numerous shows, bars, and danceclubs, but lots of the entertainment centers on the hotels. Those whowant quieter entertainment are best off heading out of San Juan toother parts of the island.

If possible, visitors should try to attend a performance of the LeLoLaiprogram, a series of year-round performances celebrating the island’smulticultural heritage. Performances move from one hotel to another.San Juan’s Centro de Bellas Artes is the largest performing arts centerin the Caribbean. It features a full schedule of plays and performances,many with internationally acclaimed performers. La Casita Festival isheld every Saturday across from Pier 1 in Old San Juan.

Cruise CallSan Juan is second only to Miami as a departure point for cruises. Visitsto San Juan and Puerto Rico in conjunction with cruises are usually inthe form of pre- or post-cruise packages rather than as a cruise stop(most clients prefer pre-cruise visits). Cruisegoers must decide howmuch time to devote to the city and island. Those traveling overnightto meet a cruise will have much of the day to see San Juan (if they feelawake enough to do so). Those coming from the West Coast shouldprobably arrive at least a day before the cruise departs. They can thenspend much of the embarkation day seeing the city and be well restedand ready to enjoy the cruise.


A night out in Puerto Rico

Courtesy of PRTC/Len Kaufman

Old San Juan is within walking distance of most ships at dock, but thewalk can be a bit long on a hot day. One solution is to take a taxi toOld San Juan and then meander back.

Selling Puerto RicoPuerto Rico satisfies a wide range of markets. Many travelers are notaware of its wealth of ecotravel and cultural opportunities.

Golfers, gamblers, and resort-goers will have all the fun they canhandle. Nightlife, fine dining, and entertainment are first-class. Thosewho like a Latin beat to their fun would be hard pressed to find abetter destination. Because Puerto Rico is both America and a verydifferent culture, vacationers can sample the familiar as well as theforeign in one trip. Commercial-minded travelers, even when onvacation, will find few negative factors or travel inhibitors in PuertoRico, which boasts economic progress, business opportunities, a goodstandard of living, and a very advanced tourism infrastructure. The newconvention center and the facilities available at large hotels canaccommodate big groups.

Puerto Rico also appeals to culture enthusiasts and ecotravelers. They willfind historic sites, Spanish colonial architecture, and remnants of NativeIndian life around the island, but today’s cultural amalgam is no lessinteresting and rich. Those who have a cursory acquaintance with PuertoRico may have heard of El Yunque rain forest, but they may not knowabout the island’s large “dry forest,” its huge cave systems, or its biolu-minescent bays (which in themselves can be a prime travel motivator).

Puerto Rico’s infrastructure also contains top-grade tennis facilities and all water-sports activities, most of which have not been highlightedin this chapter, but which are additional travel motivators for sports enthusiasts.

Puerto Rico’s accessibility is another selling point. Nonstop flights fromthe United States are frequent. Travelers heading for other Caribbeanislands, including those boarding cruises, are prime candidates for astopover in Puerto Rico. You can design a three-day package based oneach client’s particular interests. For one client, a stopover mightinclude days of golf near Dorado Beach; another client might prefernights of salsa in San Juan; and yet another might enjoy stays atparadores after a drive through the mountains.


Island SecretMona is an unspoiled island refuge inhabited solely by giant iguanas,three species of endangered sea turtles, red-footed boobies, andcountless other seabirds. This protected nature reserve, sometimescalled the “Galapagos of the Caribbean,” lies 50 miles off Puerto Rico’swestern coast. Limestone cliffs 200 feet high overlook the island’s coastand its surrounding coral reefs, and a large marine-originated cavesystem honeycombs it. Visitors can reach Mona by charter boat fromMayagüez. Snorkelers, spelunkers, biologists, and ecotourists can obtainpermission to camp on the island, but they must bring everything theyneed, including water.

Key Points about Puerto Rico• San Juan: Old San Juan, Condado, Isla Verde

• Dorado Beach

• El Yunque and Luquillo Beach

• Fajardo: gateway to Culebra and Vieques

• Ponce

• Bioluminescent bays

• Mayagüez

• Arecibo and the interior

For More InformationPuerto Rico Tourism Company666 Fifth Avenue, 15th FloorNew York, NY 10103Phone: 800-223-6530 (all U.S. offices: for both travel agent and con-sumer requests) or 212-586-6262800-866-7827 (Puerto Rico office)Fax: 212-586-1212Web site: www.gotopuertorico.com

The Puerto Rico Travel Expert Program comes with the Puerto RicoSales Guide, a concise manual with excellent graphics and maps. Theprogram includes a familiarization visit to the island.


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ST. JOHN1 inch = 6.2 mi., 10.1 km.

ST. CROIX1 inch = 8.1 mi., 13.1 km.

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The U.S. Virgin Islands are one of the most popular destinations inthe Caribbean for American visitors. Tourist facilities are well

developed, more cruise ships call here than at any other Caribbeanisland, and “shop until you drop” is the motto on many visitors’ lips.At the same time, the islands are an American paradise for divers,yachtsmen, beach lovers, and naturalists.

The main towns—Charlotte Amalie (St. Thomas), Cruz Bay (St. John),and Christiansted and Frederiksted (St. Croix)—offer a surprising archi-tecture and charm that bespeak their Danish heritage. The VirginIslands National Park and Buck Island Reef National Monument offerunderwater snorkeling trails, ideal for the first-timer, and the bestcamping opportunities in the Caribbean. The islands are easily reachedby cruise ships out of southern Florida, as well as those that departfrom San Juan, and are about a 30-minute flight from Puerto Rico.The islands’ climate is better than most, with trade winds keeping boththe humidity and temperatures moderate.

Historical BackgroundLike many of the smaller islands in the Caribbean, the Virgin Islandswere forgotten for a century after Columbus’ first landing. In the1600s, the English and Dutch recognized their strategic importanceand in turn fought with the Spanish and the French, who sold theislands to a religious order, the Knights of Malta. During periods inwhich these countries were warring in Europe, Danish settlers assumedcontrol. After a succession of owners, Denmark declared the islands aDanish Crown colony.

St. Thomas became a free port and flourished as an important tradingstation (it still does, being recognized by most as the prime shoppingisland in the Caribbean), while St. John and St. Croix became richsugar plantations. The “free enterprise” nature of the islands and theturmoil that occurred between different regimes made them a magnetfor pirates such as Blackbeard and Captain Kidd, whose legends live on.At the height of World War I, the United States purchased the islands

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: U.S. Virgin Islands • 167

Fast FactsLand AreaSt. Thomas: 32 square milesSt. John: 19 square milesSt. Croix: 84 square miles

Population115,000 (in 1990 3,500 residents in St.John, with the rest of the populationdivided between St. Thomas and St.Croix.)

CapitalCharlotte Amalie, St. Thomas

LanguagesEnglish; approximately 45 percent of St.Croix’s population speaks Spanish.

Time ZoneUTC -4 or AST (EST +1). They do notobserve daylight-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyU.S. dollar


DocumentsEven though the U.S. Virgin Islands area U.S. territory, American citizens orresidents should carry proof of citizenship or a residency card withthem when entering and leaving theislands. Please review document information in the course Introduction to see what constitutes “proof of citizenship.”

U.S. VirginIslands

from Denmark for $25 million in gold to protect its interests in thePanama Canal. The islands remain a U.S. territory, and have one delegate to the U.S. House of Representatives who is allowed to votein House sessions. All Virgin Islanders are citizens of the United States,but they cannot vote in presidential elections.

Arrival and Location BriefingThree major islands make up the U.S. Virgin Islands: St. Thomas, St.John, and St. Croix. About four dozen other islets and cays, most ofwhich are uninhabited, are also part of the chain. St. Thomas has by farthe most air arrivals and accommodations. It is also the cruise capital ofthe Caribbean, receiving more ships than any other island. (Nassau hasmore cruise calls, with the same ships arriving twice in the same weekon three- or four-day sailings.)

St. John, only three miles off the eastern tip of St. Thomas, is the secludedbeauty of the trio. Three-quarters of the island consists of Virgin IslandsNational Park. Although its main port has shops and development, andthere are luxury hotels on St. John, the island’s main appeals are its forests,crumbling plantations, and the pristine beaches of its protected areas.

St. Croix is 40 miles south of St. Thomas. Flights leave hourly betweenthe two islands. Even though it is larger, St. Croix is not as commer-cially developed as St. Thomas and has had to rebuild its infrastructurein recent years after destructive hurricanes.

Major U.S. carriers have nonstop and direct flights into St. Thomas andSt. Croix from a number of eastern cities, such as Miami, New York,Atlanta, Philadelphia, Washington, and Chicago, depending on thetime of year. Dozens of flights a day also connect the islands with SanJuan. St. John is reached by ferry or seaplane from St. Thomas.

Local TransportationVisitors have three choices of public transportation on St. Thomas:taxis, taxi-vans, and the Vitran bus system. Sharing a taxi-van cuts thecost of a taxi trip, but passengers may go by an indirect route whileothers are dropped off. Other taxis operate as jitneys on certain routes.The convenient and inexpensive Vitran bus system covers most of the12-mile length of the island, and buses stop within walking distance ofmost spots. Renting a car is not as expensive as on many islands, butmost visitors probably will not need one for more than a day or two ofexploration, if that. Roads are narrow, hills are steep, and driving is onthe left side. Caution should be used on all three islands.


Buses also run across much of St. Croix, but those who want to explorethe nooks and crannies of this larger island may need a rental car. OnSt. Croix, secondary roads can be a challenge.

Those who are arriving in St. Thomas and plan to stay in St. John for a while can take a taxi from the St. Thomas airport to either CharlotteAmalie, situated mid-island, or to Red Hook on the eastern side of St.Thomas. They can then take a ferry to St. John from either location.Day-trippers to St. John and those with minimal luggage can take thebus to Red Hook; from there, it is a quick boat ride to St. John (thefare is just a few dollars). St. John has limited bus service and moder-ately priced taxi-surreys to a few key locations on the island. Thosewanting to explore coves and secluded parts of the national park attheir own pace may wish to rent a car or jeep. Open jeeps are fun forsightseeing the island, but drivers should be cautious. Book in advanceduring busy season because the number of vehicles is limited.

Around the Islands: AttractionsSt. ThomasCharlotte Amalie (SHAR let uh MAHL yuh), the capital, isthe commercial and historic center of St. Thomas. Shopperscan spend a few hours or a few days here, in the largestduty-free emporium in the Caribbean. Every name brand isrepresented and liquor-supermarkets deliver directly to theships. Visitors may bring a gallon of spirits plus one bottleof locally made liquor per person duty-free into theUnited States.

Sightseers can stroll to Fort Christian, located near King’s Wharf atthe eastern end of the harbor. This landmark, dating from 1672, is theisland’s oldest standing structure and has been everything from a gov-ernor’s residence to a jail—indeed, pirates were hanged in its courtyard.A few blocks farther is Government House, the administrative head-quarters of the islands. On display in Government House are a fewsmall paintings of the famous Impressionist, Camille Pissarro, who wasborn in St. Thomas. A few more blocks away is St. ThomasSynagogue, the oldest synagogue under an American flag.

Even when not shopping, visitors can spend a lot of time in the markets, stalls, and cafés between Main Street and the narrow, flower-bedecked alleyways that connect it to the waterfront. The sight of theperfectly shaped harbor and the islets and cruise ships floating in itsmidst is one that few will forget. Just west of the capital is Frenchtown,where descendants of French colonists live and where some of the best restaurants are found.


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The classic tour of the island includes Drake’s Seat, high in themountains above Charlotte Amalie. It was the lookout point fromwhich Sir Francis Drake kept watch over his fleet and looked for enemyships of the Spanish. The panoramic view includes the British VirginIslands, Drake’s Passage, and Magen’s Bay, the island’s most popularand famous beach. Visitors will definitely want to stop at MountainTop for a banana daiquiri (said to have been invented here). Thisvantage point provides an even more spectacular view of thesurroundings. Garden lovers can stop at nearby Estate St. PeterGreathouse and Botanical Gardens.

The island’s number-one attraction, besides its capital and naturalsetting, is Coral World. This four-and-a-half-acre marine park allowsvisitors to its Underwater Observatory to go 15 feet below the seawithout getting wet. This is a natural environment, where fish andother marine creatures are free to come and go as they please. The parkalso includes an 80,000-gallon tank of exotic creatures and 21aquariums. More underwater wonders can be experienced on a ride inthe Atlantis Submarine. Mahogany Run Golf Course has some ofthe most beautifully situated holes in the Caribbean.

Magen’s Bay ranks among the top 10 beaches in many Caribbean publications, and a lot of beachgoers agree. St. Thomas is surroundedby hidden coves and secluded beaches for those who prefer a bit more privacy.

Numerous luxury resorts as well as a healthy collection of atmosphericinns, condominiums, and smaller hotels are distributed around theisland’s shores. The newer Ritz-Carlton was created to resemble aVenetian palazzo, while Marriott Frenchman’s Reef has welcomed visi-tors for decades. The Inn at Bluebeard’s Castle is built around a 17th-century tower on 20 hilltop acres. Hotel 1829 in Charlotte Amalie is anOld World–style inn that is a designated national historic site.

St. JohnAlthough smaller than the other two U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is anatural treasure. Virgin Islands National Park covers more thanthree-quarters of the island. The park was created when LauranceRockefeller donated a large parcel of land to the United States. TheNational Park Service protects both the wildlife and the coral gardenssurrounding the island.

Visitors by ferry will alight at Cruz Bay, the island’s only real town. Hillsrise above the bay and overlook the harbor. This sleepy artist colony is justbeginning to bustle with cozy shops, information centers, and taxi drivers


ready to help visitors explore the island. Small hotels and villacomplexes are nearby, and a large Westin is just over the hill.

The island’s major road and best beaches are along the hillynorth coast: Caneel Bay, Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay, andMaho Bay. Beaches here are idyllic, with hidden coves,twisting palm trees growing to the water’s edge, and rocksand islets just off the coast—and the entire environment issurrounded by coral.

Trunk Bay’s underwater trail is perfect for novicesnorkelers. Submerged signs point to coral and other features of the deep. The highly popular trail can be quitecrowded in high season, and the water is not always as clear as itonce was. Farther on, the partially restored Annenberg Plantationdepicts life as it was two or three centuries ago, while the ruins of othersugar mills crumble forlornly amid the tropical foliage in the park. Anumber of hiking paths lead to vistas throughout the park.

Two accommodations along the north coast could not be moredifferent in cost, service, and facilities, and yet they are curiously similarin spirit. Caneel Bay Resort, originally built by Rockefeller, is one ofthe most distinguished resorts in the Caribbean and is spread over 170acres. Its secluded cottages are situated among the island’s foliage andfauna. They have panoramic views to the pristine sands of the bay, oropen directly onto the beach. Cinnamon Bay Campground has 113of the most sought-after bare campsites, tent sites, and basic cottages inthe U.S. National Park system. This is one of the few locations in theCaribbean where camping is highly encouraged. Maho BayCampground and nearby locations have “eco-tents,” “tent cottages,”and ecologically sensitive rooms where guests can “camp in comfort,”without harming the environment. They are among the most uniqueand environmentally friendly rooms in the Caribbean. During highseason, reservations for any of these locations, which are on the beachor overlook the shore, should be made as far in advance as possible.

Coral Bay on the east coast is the island’s largest bay/harbor and isfilled with private yachts from around the world.

St. CroixSt. Croix (saint KROI), the largest of the Virgin Islands, lies 40 milessouth of St. Thomas. The island’s west end is lush with rain forests ofmahogany and mango trees, while its east end is arid and rocky. Inbetween, rolling hills and pastures dominate.

St. Croix has its share of lovely beaches, mostly along the north shore.


Cruz Bay

Courtesy of U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism

It also has shopping that rivals that in St. Thomas. However, theambiance is much different, perhaps similar to that of St. Thomas 50years ago. Fewer cruise ships arrive with swarms of shoppers and sight-seers, and a more relaxed atmosphere prevails. Typical pastimes aresoaking up the historic architecture and sights, stopping at a beach fora swim, and strolling along the waterfront of Christiansted orFrederiksted. Both cities are on the U.S. National Historic Registry.

St. Croix’s airport is a bit closer to Frederiksted than to Christiansted,but the vast majority of accommodations are near the largerChristiansted. Here visitors are charmed by cobblestoned streets, oldgovernment houses, and well-maintained courtyards and gardens in theold town. Government House, Customs House, and SteepleBuilding are part of this National Historic Site, but perhaps the town’smost dramatic sight is the yellow Fort Christianvaern, built in 1749,after the Danish took control.

Frederiksted is a smaller town. It was largely destroyed by fire in 1878and has been devastated by hurricanes. Town leaders have restoredmuch of the former Danish grandeur to Frederiksted. Its gingerbreadarchitecture and historic sites can easily be seen on foot.

St. Croix’s most well-known sight is Buck Island Reef NationalMonument, with its legendary beach of coral sand and crystallinewater. Lying a mile and a half off the northeastern coast, Buck Island isa 300-acre volcanic rock surrounded by 550 acres of underwater coral.The inner reef ranges in depth from 12 to 15 feet and has marked trailsfor snorkeling. More experienced divers have plenty to explore in thelabyrinth and grottoes of this enormous reef.

The Cruzan Rum Distillery and the island’s ruined and restored sugarplantations are St. Croix’s other major sights. The Carambola GolfCourse, the best in the U.S. Virgin Islands, is located here.

The Buccaneer Inn, near Christiansted, is the island’s most well-knownluxury resort, but newer resorts (one introducing the Virgin Islands’ firstcasino) have opened or are near completion. An excellent selection of villas, condominiums, smaller hotels, bed and breakfasts (B&Bs), andeven campsites are available. Some are scattered along the coasts and nearFrederiksted, but the vast majority are near Christiansted.

What’s Special about the U.S. Virgin Islands?St. Thomas and St. Croix are the premier shopping destinations in the Caribbean. “Duty-free” really means something here, although


sometimes U.S. discount stores have better prices. In addition,Americans receive a more generous duty-free allowance when theyreturn from the U.S. Virgin Islands: they may bring back twice as muchmerchandise duty-free and four times the amount of liquor as fromother Caribbean locations.

Virgin Islands National Park on St. John is unique in the National Parksystem and will attract nature lovers from all over the United States.Campers can set up on St. John or St. Croix at a reasonable price.Snorkeling trails, which were unique when they were first created, are atreat for new snorkelers or youngsters; the concept was later adoptedby a handful of other islands. Hiking trails through the park pass by theruins of plantations among the hills and preserved tropical flora.

The U.S. and British Virgin Islands constitute one of the prime sailingand yachting destinations in the Caribbean. Only the Grenadines andthe Bahamas begin to compete with the wealth of islands, coves, har-bors, and sheltered waters that beckon sailors. They are never out ofsight of a safe anchorage or a white-sand beach. Every kind of watercraftor boat is available in St. Thomas for independent day sailing or touring.Windjammer cruises touch upon many of the islands. These are largesailing vessels carrying 75 to 100 passengers on weeklong cruises whereinformality is the rule—there are no lavish shows, casinos, or fancy dress.

Island CultureDanish influence on island culture can best be seen in its architecture,but otherwise little remains of this heritage. The language never reallytook hold, and English soon supplanted it. French and Creole are spo-ken in some areas (a holdover from colonial days), and Spanish is spokenby immigrants from nearby Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic.

The somewhat relaxed attitude permeating these islands derives from a mixture of American, African, and Caribbean heritages. Americansmay feel more at home in the U.S. Virgin Islands than in any otherdestination described in this book, since the islands are part of theUnited States.

Unique to St. Croix is the dancing of the imperial quadrille. Once popular in 18th-century France, the quadrille can be graceful and stately or lively and original. Many of the traditional calls are still madein French. Popular island music is an eclectic mix of pan (steel drum),reggae, calypso, newer rock beats, and just about every otherCaribbean sound.

Food tastes are Americanized in the most popular restaurants geared


A two-and-a-half-hourguided kayak tour ledby experiencednaturalists andbiologists takesecotourists through St.Thomas’s MarineSanctuary andMangrove Lagoon.During this firsthandeducational experience,participants can viewsnowy egrets, greatbarracudas, dwarfherrings, spotted eaglerays, jellyfish, mangrovecrabs, and even nursesharks in their naturalenvironment. Kayakerscan snorkel if theywish; however, they arenot allowed to use fins,which might disturb thehabitat.

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to visitors, but spicy Creole flavors seep into mainland dishes.Caribbean specialties such as curries, stews, goat dishes, callaloo soup(made with okra and taro leaves, similar to spinach), conch, and john-nycake (cornmeal bread) can be found wherever the locals eat. Bushtea, an herbal tea made from aromatic plants indigenous to the islands,can be drunk with your meal.

Celebrations and Special EventsCarnival in St. Thomas traces its roots back to African origins and is heldduring the Easter season rather than before Lent. It features parades,steel bands, and an elevated spirit who walks on 17-foot stilts and isdressed in bright colors and mirrors. The mirrors of the spirit make himappear partially invisible, while the viewers see only into themselves.

St. Croix’s big annual celebration is the Crucian Christmas Fiesta. Itfeatures parades, parties, and dances heralding the holiday season. St.John has its own version of Carnival leading up to the 4th of July. Theislands also celebrate other American holidays, as well as local ones,such as Transfer Day (when the islands became a U.S. territory).

Dining and EntertainmentDining styles will be quite familiar to American tastes, though fish andlocal produce are of course featured more than on the mainland.Aficionados of McDonald’s will have no trouble finding one in the capital. Those for whom a vacation to an exotic island is not completewithout visiting a Hard Rock Café will be equally pleased.

On St. Thomas, excellent dining can be found in both hotel restaurantsand individual establishments around the island. Diners can eat at theirhotel on some nights; on other nights, they can select restaurants within walking distance. To reach a few specially chosen restaurants,they can rent a car or take a short taxi ride. Diners at the best hotelsand restaurants can expect prices equal to or exceeding the best spots inmajor U.S. cities.

St. Croix’s restaurants are more concentrated around Christiansted andtend to be more informal, with an outdoor backdrop of splashing surf,a full moon, and swaying palm trees. Cuisines from around the worldare represented, usually with a local twist of spiciness. Dining on St.John is even more casual, with simple fare often at reasonable prices inCruz Bay.

Cultural shows featuring steel bands, limbo shows, calypso music, fire-


Impressionist painterCamille Pissarro wasborn in one of theremaining Frenchneighborhoods of St.Thomas in 1830. Hecontinued to live on theisland until the age of25, and his house stillstands. Some of hisearly sketches andpaintings, portrayingthe Caribbean, werediscovered in thehouse years later.Pissarro is considereda native son, eventhough he spent mostof his life in France.

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eating, stilt-walk dancing, and broken-bottle dancing take place at manyof the big hotels. Rounding out the music scene are discothèques atthese same hotels, piano bars, and small clubs with dance floors featur-ing the latest music, as well as jazz, rock, and karaoke. The local sceneon St. Thomas centers around Charlotte Amalie, Frenchtown, and RedHook. On St. Croix the action is in Christiansted and Frederiksted,while St. John’s most popular night spots are near Cruz Bay and CoralBay. The Santa Cruz Brewery near Frederiksted offers eclectic entertain-ment; it features a brewery, restaurant, café, museum, and theater presenting a musical entitled The Legend of Don Santa Cruz.

Cruise CallAn average of four to five ships converge at St. Thomas every day,though the number can go as high as seven ships and 14,000 people ina day. In the late afternoon or just before sailing, traffic from CharlotteAmalie back to the port is sometimes quite congested. Cruisegoerswhose ship docks directly at the port have the advantage of being ableto step on and off the ship at will; to reach the main part of town, theycan rent a cab or take a 15- to 20-minute walk. Passengers on shipsthat anchor in the harbor must tender in, but they land right in down-town Charlotte Amalie.

Shopping and sightseeing in town are within easy walking distance ofthe waterfront. First-timers will want to take a taxi or a tour to Drake’sSeat, Mountain Top, and the Estate St. Peter Greathouse and BotanicalGardens. Coral World is the other popular destination. Tours to St.John are also available. Many of the shops will deliver goods directly toships and are reliable.

In contrast, St. Croix averages less than one ship a day during high season and maybe one a week between summer and fall. Big ships dockat Frederiksted. From there, passengers have a choice of taking a tourto Christiansted and seeing a good part of the island, or shopping inFrederiksted, whose stores come to life when a ship is in. Otherwisethey can stroll the charming streets and relax in relative solitude.

St. John does not harbor conventional cruises, but tourists arriving atSt. Thomas can take a tour of the island.

Selling the U.S. Virgin IslandsThe U.S. Virgin Islands are well known to many Americans and do asubstantial amount of advertising. More Americans have visited them


In March 2000, the U.S.Virgin Islands’ firstcasino opened. It islocated at the DiviCarina Bay Resortnear the eastern tip ofSt. Croix, somewhataway from otherproperties on theisland. It is housed onthe second floor of atwo-story building,whose ground floor isoccupied by 10,000square feet of functionspace.

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on cruises than any other Caribbean destination (with the exception ofNassau), and their language, currency, and many customs are familiar.In this sense, the islands sell themselves. However, there are substantialdifferences among the islands, so your clientele for each one may bequite different. For example, those who want a peaceful week in thenational park on St. John may find St. Thomas a bit hectic.

Honeymooners, novice snorkelers and divers, amateur ecotourists,national park enthusiasts, and shoppers are specific niche markets idealfor the U.S. Virgin Islands. For those who are new to internationaltravel, these are good “starter” islands.

Unless your clients are totally jaded, anyone staying on St. Thomas willbe a good candidate for the short trip to St. John. In fact, this naturalisland’s lush hills and pristine beaches can be used as features to sell thebigger island. In the same way, those staying on St. John may want tospend a day of shopping on St. Thomas, after which they may be gladto return to St. John. If your clients are staying on St. Thomas andthey don’t like crowds, they should schedule their shopping trips forthe morning and avoid times when cruise ships arrive (cruise shipschedules are readily available locally). Travelers who abhor commercialdevelopment should try St. Croix or St. John.

A small minority of travelers staying on St. Thomas might want to visitSt. Croix on a day trip. Visitors who choose St. Croix for their entirestay are usually repeat travelers to the U.S. Virgin Islands or those looking for a relaxing, more peaceful island.

For travel counselors who would like to build up a sailing clientele, theU.S. Virgin Islands are a prime destination: novices can rent a boatwith crew or take a one-week live-aboard cruise during which theylearn to sail. As they gain experience, they can charter bareboats without a crew and do all the sailing themselves.

Island Secret The St. Croix Heritage Trail, which opened in the winter of 2000,offers a 72-mile driving tour full of historical and cultural sites. Somehave been known for decades; others are hidden treasures such asruined estates and plantations, churches seldom visited by tourists, andscenic Hamm’s Bluff. Runaway slaves (called Maroons) sought refugeat Hamm’s Bluff and founded isolated villages where they could not befound. Whether visitors follow the entire route or just sample a fewstops, the Heritage Trail adds another dimension to what St. Croix hasto offer.


Key Points about the U.S. Virgin Islands• St. Thomas: Charlotte Amalie, shopping, Magen’s Bay, Drake’s Seat,

Mountain Top, and Coral World; popular cruise stop

• St. John: Virgin Islands National Park; Cruz, Caneel, Trunk,Cinnamon, and Maho Bays

• St. Croix: Christiansted and Frederiksted; Buck Island Reef NationalMonument

For More InformationU.S. Virgin Islands Department of TourismP.O. Box 6400St. Thomas, USVI 00804Phone: 800-372-USVI (800-372-8784) or 340-774-8784Fax: 340-774-4390E-mail: [email protected] sites:www.usvi.org/tourismwww.st-thomas.comwww.st-johnusvi.comwww.st-croix.com



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© The Travel Institute

Peter Island

SaltIsland

Cooper Island

Ginger Island

Virgin Gorda

PricklyPearIsland

The Dogs

GreatCamanoe

Island

GuanaIsland

Tortola

JostVanDyke

GreatThatchIsland

LittleTobago

GreatTobago

ScrubIsland

Beef Island

Norman Island

Anegada

LittleJostVanDyke

PelicanIsland

✈RoadTown

Sage MountainNational Park

Cane Garden BayLong Bay

MosquitoIsland

NeckerIsland

•Spanish Town

The Baths

Virgin Gorda Peak

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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS



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British VirginIslands

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The 50 or so islands that make up the British Virgin Islands (BVIs)lie about a mile from St. John and only a few miles farther from

St. Thomas at their closest point. In spirit and ambiance, however, theyare much farther apart. Mass tourism and high-rise development areunknown here, and cruise ship arrivals are relatively few. No large air-port brings in jets from the north.

The islands are a paradise for the traveler who enjoys a quiet time communing with the sea and sand, or sailing from one bay to the next.The islands are favorite haunts of sailors, snorkelers, and divers; in fact,the majority of visitors are on yachting vacations. Even the largerislands are small enough to be seen in a day or two, leaving the rest ofthe time for pure relaxation, sports, or visits to nearby islands. Theatmosphere and resorts are decidedly upscale yet quite unpretentious;budget travelers can find moderately priced inns and camping locations.Inns and restaurants are intimate, so you often know the owners’ personal history by the time you leave.

Historical BackgroundThe British Virgin Islands experienced a similar history as their U.S. counterparts, except that Denmark never got a foothold here. TheSpanish discovered the islands, then forgot about them. The Dutch tookcontrol, fought with the Spanish, and eventually succumbed to the British.In between, Blackbeard, Bluebeard, Captain Kidd, and other buccaneersamassed as much booty as they could. Sugar, cotton, and the plantationeconomy, based on slave labor, made the British colonists rich, but uponabolition of slavery this estate economy crumbled and the islands were relatively forgotten until tourists discovered them in the 1960s.

Arrival and Location BriefingNo direct flights link the United States and the British Virgin Islands.Most tourists come by plane via San Juan or St. Thomas into Tortola’s

© The Travel Institute Northern Caribbean: British Virgin Islands • 179

British Virgin Islands

Fast FactsLand Area59 square miles, including all islands

Population19,000

CapitalRoad Town, Tortola

LanguagesEnglish

Time ZoneUTC -4 or AST (EST +1). They do notobserve daylight-saving time.

Drive onLeft

CurrencyU.S. dollar


Beef Island airport or by ferry from St. Thomas. Smaller islands to thesouth have local flights into Tortola.

The most visited island with the most accommodations is Tortola,although Virgin Gorda is not far behind. Other islands such asAnegada, Jost Van Dyke, and Peter Island tend to be frequented bysailors. Landlubbers generally have a choice of one very special resorton each island (three on Virgin Gorda) or small inns. Most of thesmaller islands are often owned by resorts.

Virgin Gorda and Tortola are mountainous, while Anegada is so flatthat sailors have difficulty seeing it on the horizon until they are almostupon it. Some islands are lush and green, while others are fairly dry;Virgin Gorda is a combination.

Local TransportationThink of Tortola as the hub island, though sometimes you may be ableto get to other islands more directly from St. Thomas. From Tortola, fer-ries or short flights go to neighboring islands, and water taxis and privatecraft will take you to islands too small to have regularly scheduled boats.

Hotels will usually make arrangements to pick up guests from the airport or ferry dock. Otherwise, taxis almost always meet arrivingtourists. When booking, you should consult with the hotel about transportation. Rental cars are available for those who want to explorethese small islands, but roads are often steep and narrow.

The majority of visitors come by either private or public boat. They canexplore the surroundings by renting a boat for the day or by hiring asailboat with crew for a full week. The islands are spectacular and relaxing by land, but they are a sailor’s dream.


Tortola and Virgin GordaTortola is the largest of the BVIs and Road Town is its capital, wheremost of the population resides. The Virgin Islands Folk Museum hasa large collection of Arawak artifacts. The J. R. O’Neal BotanicGardens sits on an impressive four acres and features hothouses oforchids. Although Tortola is still uncommercialized compared withmany Caribbean destinations, modernity and development are creepingin as islanders and new emigrants from colder climates begin buildinglarger houses and villas.


The northern coast of Tortola has white-sand beaches fringed by lushtropical vegetation. The southern coast is characterized by ruggedmountain peaks, rising to 1,780 feet in Sage Mountain National Park.On the southern coast, the highway skirts the sea along the entirelength of the island and continues halfway up the northwest coast.However, most of the tiny bays and coves along the rest of the northern coast are best explored by boat or winding roads that lead upand back to the main road, but do not follow the coastline. BeefIsland, connected to the east end of Tortola by the Queen ElizabethBridge, has Tortola’s airport. Toward the west end are the ruins of FortRecovery, which was built by the Dutch in 1660, and Mount Sage.

Most accommodations are situated on the northern coast of the westend or near Road Town. Cane Garden Bay, on the northern coast, isperhaps the busiest beach, whose beauty is often compared to Magen’sBay on St. Thomas. A number of hotels are located there.

At Road Town is the Moorings, one of the most well-known marinaoperations in the world. Its owners helped open Tortola for tourism whenthey established the marina in the 1960s. A 40-room inn, dive shop, andcomplete yacht charter facilities are part of the complex. Nearby ProspectReef is the largest oceanfront resort village in the BVIs, with more than125 rooms. Small inns and villas are scattered along the coast. Tortola alsohas a campground, making the island one of the few in the Caribbean thatwelcome those who like to sleep under canvas or are on a tight budget.

Virgin Gorda, a few miles east of Beef Island, is the third largest of theBVIs, but it ranks in importance with Tortola. It is long and irregularlyshaped, almost pinched into two or three islands at certain points. Itsmain settlement, Spanish Town, on the southern third of the island, is a village so small that it hardly qualifies as a town. It consists mainlyof a marina, some shops, car rental agencies, the ferry slip, andthe houses of the people who work at these facilities. The airport is nearby.

The southern tip of Virgin Gorda contains perhaps the mostfamous natural sight in the British Virgin Islands. The Bathsare composed of giant boulders scattered on the beach and inthe sea. Brought to the surface by volcanic eruptions eonsago, they create grottoes of tranquil pools and caves lit bysunshine filtering through crevices in the rock ceiling. TheBaths are amazing to explore by wading, swimming, orsnorkeling. Those staying on the island will want to avoidvisiting this very popular location on days when cruise shipsare in. Virgin Gorda Peak in the center of the northernhalf of the island is the highest point at 1,359 feet.


Snorkelers at The Baths

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Located on the southwestern arm of amorphously shaped Virgin Gordais the casually elegant Little Dix Bay. Begun by Laurance Rockefeller inthe 1960s, it is the most famous resort in the BVIs, much like CaneelBay Plantation on St. John. The Bitter End Yacht Club and Biras CreekHotel (all suites) vie for top honors. Smaller hotels, villas, and inns alsooffer accommodations.

Other British Virgin IslandsLocated about 16 miles north of Virgin Gorda, Anegada is the mostnortherly and isolated of the island group and the second largest of theislands. It has had more shipwrecks off its shores than it has inhabitants(population 150), a testament to the shallow reef that surrounds it.That same reef protects the waters around the island and makes them ahaven for snorkelers. It is popular with sailors as well. Anegada alsoboasts miles of beach. This is an island that appeals to vacationers whoreally want to get away from it all. There is one superior first-classresort and a campground, but very few accommodations to choosefrom in between those extremes.

Jost Van Dyke (the “J” is pronounced) lies just four miles offTortola’s west end. It is a quiet island for beachcombing and snorkel-ing, and is a favorite of sailors, much like Anegada. Yachtsmen enjoythe beach bars along Great Harbour.

Southeast of Tortola is Peter Island. This private island is home to theexclusive Peter Island Resort and Yacht Harbour, which occupies its1,800 acres. At least six other islands have secluded hotels that encom-pass all or most of their islands: Cooper Island, Guana Island, LittleThatch, Necker Island, Marina Cay, and Mosquito Island. A fewhave moderately priced accommodations (less than $100 a night insummer); on others you rent the entire resort and island (more than$12,000 a day).

What’s Special about the British Virgin Islands?Sailing, of course, is perhaps the biggest attraction of the BVIs. Fewplaces in the world are as ideal for exploring by boat, and only one ortwo locations in the Caribbean can even compete. Sailing schools canbe found on Tortola and Virgin Gorda. The BVIs have one of thelargest charter fleets anywhere in the world, and anything from bare-boats to yachts with complete crews can be arranged. Those sleepingon land can enjoy as many day sails as they like.


One of the most famousdive sites in theCaribbean contains thewreck of the RMS (RoyalMail Steamer) Rhone,which went down in 1867just a few dozen feet offSalt Island, southeast ofTortola. Titanicenthusiasts who dive orsnorkel will not want tomiss this. It is one of theoldest dive-wrecks, as itwas one of the firstironclads (most olderships were made of woodand have sincedeteriorated). Only one ofthe 126 people on boardwas saved from the ill-fated ship. The wreckteems with marine lifeand coral formations andcan be reached on toursfrom Tortola or by privateboat. It was featured inthe movie The Deep.

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The BVIs are also for those who love relaxation and solitude, or wholike the ambiance of an earlier era, when the word “tourist” was littleused but “traveler” connoted a special bond between the visitor and the environment.

Secluded places—whether they be elegant resorts, charming inns, orbare campsites—are characteristic of the BVIs. Even the most upscaleresorts gratify visitors’ needs and desires in an understated,sophisticated manner. This is not to say that the BVIs are totallyundiscovered; after all, they are just a 60-minute ferry ride from St.Thomas. And cruise ships do call, but only two or three a week.Serenity is always just around the bend of the next hill or a few stepsfarther down the beach.

The sheltered waters, reefs, and islets make for excellent diving,snorkeling, and water sports of all types. Complete dive courses and“resort courses” (see course Introduction) are given at a number oflocations by highly qualified instructors. The dive to the RMS Rhoneis one of the Caribbean’s most famous. Most tennis courts are to befound at the resorts.

The British Virgin Islands are not the first place hikers and campersthink of going, even if they’re considering the Caribbean, but VirginGorda National Park, Sage Mountain National Park, and the camp-grounds located on each of the major islands make for an unusual andideal hiking trip. Nature lovers may enjoy the flamingos that have beenreintroduced to Flamingo Pond on Anegada and the bird sanctuary onGreat Tobago Island off Jost Van Dyke.

Island CultureVestiges of English culture remain, and they have an African andCaribbean overlay. American lifestyles and preferences, however, are justas likely to prevail at most resorts, restaurants, and shops. Dress is casual,but a jacket is preferred for dinner at some of the more elegant resortsin the winter season. Though dress on the beach and at resorts isextremely casual, a cover-up is necessary in town to meet island norms.

Celebrations and Special EventsThe people of the British Virgin Islands observe holidays based onEnglish tradition—such as Boxing Day and the Queen’s Birthday—buttheir most festive celebration occurs during the last week in July andthe first week in August, when everything stops for the EmancipationFestival. Dancing and parades with floats take place along the water-


front in Road Town, Tortola. The Spring Regatta, held each April inTortola, draws sailors from North America and the rest of the world.

Dining and EntertainmentSailors often make dining reservations by VHF radio channel as theyhead into the harbors. International cuisine prevails, with an emphasison seafood. There aren’t too many ethnic restaurants, and fast-foodchains have not yet arrived. Restaurant selection will depend onlocation and mode of transport. Those staying near Road Town canreach a number of choices. Those staying at other locations willprobably dine at their self-contained resorts or at one or two otherresorts nearby. Any other dining choices might be a trek. Lunch is agood time to try out the beach bar-restaurants along the coast.

In keeping with the tranquillity of these islands, the nightlife is mostlylocal. Steel bands and scratch bands, or fungi bands as they are known,play regularly at the resorts. Casinos, late-night discothèques, or floorshows will not be found. But wherever yachts and sailing craft congre-gate, there will be lively bars that also entertain landlubbers (though theysometimes may have to walk awhile along the beach to reach them).

Cruise CallAlthough the BVIs are not one of the major cruise stops in the Carib-bean, a new dock was built in Road Town, Tortola, to accommodatetwo medium-sized ships at a time. The island is seeking to attract small-er upscale ships. A visit to The Baths on Virgin Gorda is high on mostcruisegoers’ lists, so it may be a good idea to reserve early while onboard ship. Otherwise, Tortola has plenty of pretty hill and sea vistas.

Selling the British Virgin Islands The BVIs are the hideaway of the unpretentious rich-and-famous. Theymay find themselves sharing the island with visitors who are less pros-perous but who share the need for privacy and want to leave theworld’s cares behind. Flamboyance is out, understatement is in. Thosewho appreciate the sun and sea and a quiet drink with friends beforedining under the stars will feel right at home.

The fact that these islands are not directly accessible and require connec-tions or a ferry ride is a drawback to some. For clients suited to theBVIs, you can turn this into a plus: because it takes more effort to getto the BVIs, there are fewer tourists. The various transfers can be quite


“This string of gems,sparkling in the sea”;“these dribs and drabsand dollops of land thatare a mapmaker’snightmare”; “croutonsclustered together in awarm soup”—the BVIshave challenged travelwriters to describethem over the years.But it was the originalsettlers and pirateswho gave the individualislands those TreasureIsland names,regardless of whichone was the model forthe novel. Some of theislands have names likeold friends—Cooper andNorman and Gingerand Peter—but they’realso joined by MosquitoIsland, CockroachIsland, and The Dogs(including George Dog,Great Dog, and WestDog). And then there’sFallen Jerusalem andBroken Jerusalemspilling off the end ofVirgin “Gorda” (whichmeans“Fat” in Spanish).

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enjoyable: a ferry through the islands or a low-flying island-hopper ispart of the excitement of a trip to the BVIs.

Island Secret Everyone visiting Virgin Gorda will want to swim through The Baths,but adventurers also can go spelunking by rowing their dinghy into thepirate caves on Norman Island, believed to be the inspiration forRobert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. Nearby are Deadman’s Cayand Dead Chest Island.

Key Points about theBritish Virgin Islands• Tortola and Virgin Gorda

• The Baths

• Anegada and Jost Van Dyke

• Private or semiprivate islands andresorts

• Sailing and seclusion

For MoreInformationBritish Virgin Islands Tourist Board370 Lexington AvenueNew York, NY 10017Phone: 800-835-8530 or 212-696-0400Fax: 212-949-8254E-mail: [email protected] site: www.bviwelcome.com



Courtesy of British Virgin Islands Tourist Board

The caves on Norman Island

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