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Discover

Experience the best of the Caribbean

Islands

CaribbeanIslands

This edition written and researched by

Ryan Ver Berkmoes,Jean-Bernard Carillet, Paul Clammer, Michael Grosberg, Kevin

Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Polly Thomas, Luke Waterson, Karla Zimmerman

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p50

Jamaica

p78

DominicanRepublic

p108

PuertoRico

p136

US & BritishVirginIslands

p174

LeewardIslands

p224

FrenchAntilles

p276WindwardIslands

p334SouthernCaribbean

JamaicaJamaicaHighlights .............................. 53

Blue Mountain Peak

National Gallery of Jamaica

Falmouth

Reggae Sumfest

Dunn’s River Falls

Dominican Dominican RepublicRepublicHighlights .............................. 81

Playa Rincón

Whale Watching

27 Waterfalls of Damajagua

Zona Colonia, Santo Domingo

Bávaro & Punta Cana

Puerto RicoPuerto RicoHighlights .............................. 111

Old San Juan

Vieques

El Yunque National Forest

Santurce

Rincón

Leeward IslandsLeeward IslandsHighlights ............................. 177

Shoal Bay East

Sint Eustatius

Frigate Bird Sanctuary

Mt Scenery

Brimstone Hill Fortress

French AntillesFrench AntillesHighlights ............................. 227

Mont Pelée

Ruins, St Pierre

Réserve Cousteau

Pointe des Châteaux

Anse de Colombier

Windward Windward IslandsIslandsHighlights ............................ 279

St Lucia

Dominica

Barbados

St Vincent & the Grenadines

Grenada


ContentsContents

Jamaica 50Jamaica 50Itineraries ................... 52Highlights ................... 53Kingston ....................... 54Port Antonio ................ 60Ocho Rios ..................... 63Montego Bay ................ 65Falmouth ...................... 69Glistening Waters .........70Negril .............................70Treasure Beach ............73Black River ....................74

Dominican Dominican Republic 78Republic 78Itineraries ...................80Highlights ....................81Santo Domingo ............82Bávaro & Punta Cana .. 91Península de Samaná ......................... 94Las Galeras .................. 94Las Terrenas ................ 96Cabarete ..................... 100Jarabacoa ...................102

Puerto Rico 108Puerto Rico 108Itineraries ..................110Highlights ...................111San Juan .......................112

Southern Southern CaribbeanCaribbeanHighlights ........................... 337

Bonaire

Aruba

Curaçao

Port of Spain

Trinidad Carnival

US & British US & British Virgin IslandsVirgin IslandsHighlights ........................... 139

Cinnamon Bay

The Baths

Soggy Dollar Bar

Freedom City Beach Bar & Surf Shop

RMS Rhone

This is the Caribbean ....6

Caribbean Islands’ Top Highlights ..............10

Caribbean Islands’ Top Itineraries ..............32

Caribbean Month by Month ...................... 42

What’s New .................. 46

Get Inspired ..................47

Need to Know .............. 48

DiscoverDiscoverPlan Your TripPlan Your Trip


ContentsContents

Windward Windward Islands 276Islands 276Itineraries ................. 278Highlights ................. 279Dominica ....................280Roseau ........................ 280Roseau Valley ............ 284West Coast................. 287Northeastern Coast .. 289Carib Territory ............291St Lucia ........................291Castries .......................291Rodney Bay & Gros Islet .................... 292Pigeon Island ............. 294Western St Lucia ....... 295The South Coast ....... 298St Vincent ..................300Kingstown ..................300Bequia ........................ 303Mustique .................... 307Canouan ..................... 307Mayreau ..................... 307Union Island ............... 308Tobago Cays .............. 308Grenada ......................308Grenada Island ..........309Carriacou ....................316Barbados ..................... 317Bridgetown .................. 317South Coast ................321West Coast................. 324Central Barbados ...... 326Eastern Barbados ......327

Sint Eustatius ............ 203St Kitts ....................... 206Nevis ............................215

French French Antilles 224Antilles 224Itineraries .................226Highlights ................. 227Sint Maarten .............. 228St-Martin .................... 232St-Barthélemy ............237Gustavia ..................... 238Flamands.................... 240St-Jean ....................... 240Lorient ......................... 241Grand Cul-de-Sac & Pointe Milou ................ 241Anse de Grande Saline .......................... 243Guadeloupe ................ 243Grande-Terre ............. 243Basse-Terre ................ 250Martinique.................. 256Fort-de-France........... 256St-Pierre ..................... 260Grand-Rivière ............ 263Presqu’île de Caravelle .................... 263Grande Anse .............. 265Anses d’Arlet ............. 267Le Diamant ................. 268Presqu’île de Ste-Anne .................... 268

El Yunque ....................124Luquillo & Around ......124Vieques ........................124Culebra ........................ 127Ponce ...........................130Rincón.......................... 131

US & British US & British Virgin Islands 136Virgin Islands 136Itineraries ................. 138Highlights ................. 139US Virgin Islands ...... 140St Thomas ...................140St John ........................148St Croix ........................152British Virgin Islands ......................... 157Tortola ......................... 157Virgin Gorda ................163Jost Van Dyke .............166

Leeward Leeward Islands 174Islands 174Itineraries ..................176Highlights .................. 177Anguilla........................ 178Antigua ........................186Barbuda .......................195Saba .............................198Windwardside .............198The Bottom ................ 202

Discover Caribbean IslandsDiscover Caribbean Islands


Caribbean Islands Today ............................418

History ........................420

Family Travel .............. 427

Caribbean Cuisine ....429

Cruising the Caribbean ................... 435

Diving & Snorkeling ..................442

Weddings & Honeymoons ..............448

Budget Caribbean......451

Directory ....................456Accommodations ...... 456Customs Regulations ................ 457Climate ....................... 457Electricity ................... 457Gay & Lesbian Travelers..................... 457Health ......................... 457Insurance ................... 457Internet Access ......... 458Legal Matters............. 458Money ......................... 458Public Holidays .......... 458Safe Travel ................. 458Telephone .................. 459Time ............................ 459Travelers with Disabilities.................. 459Visas ...........................460Weights & Measures....................460Women Travelers ......460

Transport ....................460Getting There & Away ........................460Getting Around ..........460

Behind the Scenes....463

Index ............................465

Legend ........................ 478

Our Writers .................480

Southern Southern Caribbean 334Caribbean 334Itineraries .................336Highlights ................. 337Aruba ........................... 338Oranjestad ................. 338Arikok National Wildlife Park ............... 345Bonaire .......................346Kralendijk ................... 346Curaçao .......................351Willemstad ..................351Trinidad ...................... 356Tobago .........................372

Best of the Best of the Rest 391Rest 391Turks & Caicos ........... 392Caicos Islands ........... 392Turks Islands ............. 398Cayman Islands ......... 401Grand Cayman ...........401Little Cayman ............409Cayman Brac ..............410Montserrat ..................412

Survival Guide Survival Guide In Focus In Focus


This Is the Caribbean This Is the Caribbean

You can have any

kind of island

adventure here

Rocked by music, rolled by change, lapped by turquoise waters, blown by hurricanes – the Caribbean is not a place anyone could call static. It’s a lively and intoxicating profusion of people and places spread over 7000 islands (fewer than 10% are inhabited). But, for all they share, there’s also much that makes them different. Forming a huge swath around the Caribbean Sea, the namesake islands contradict in ways big and small. Can there be a greater contrast than between bustling Barbados and its neighbor, the seemingly unchanged-since-colonial-times Saint Vincent? Or between booming British-oriented St Kitts and its sleepy, Dutch-affiliated neighbor Sint Eusta-tius, just across a narrow channel?

You’ll soon discover there is no typical Caribbean. Azure seas, white beaches, green forests so vivid they actually hurt the eyes – there is nothing subtle about the bold colors of the Caribbean. Swim be-low the waters for a color chart of darting fish and corals. Wander along the sand and stop at the paint-factory explosion that is a beach bar, from the garish decor to the rum punch in your glass. Hike into emerald wilderness and spot the accents of red orchids and yellow parrots.

All the colors are infectious. Like birds shedding dull adolescent plumage, visitors leave their wardrobes of gray and black behind when they step off the plane and don the Caribbean palette. Even the food is colorful, with rainbows of produce brightening up the local markets. You’ll also see every color but dull at intense, costume-filled festivities like Carnival, celebrated through-out the region.

You can find any kind of island adven-ture here. With so many islands, beaches, cultures, flavors and waves to choose from you are bound to have a fabulous time. Doing nothing on the sand, partying at a resort, exploring a new port of call, hopping between islands, discovering wonders under the water or catching a perfect wave above, reveling in a centuries-old culture, and finding your inner pirate are all possible.

Soufrière (p297), St LuciaALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

6

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Aaccommodations 49, 456-7,

see also individual locationsCayman Islands 410Dominican Republic 104French Antilles 271Jamaica 74Leeward Islands 219Montserrat 415Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 399US & British Virgin

Islands 169Windward Islands 327-8

activities 14, 42-5, see also individual activities

air travel 46, 460, 461Anegada 166Anguilla 31, 178-86

accommodations 180, 182-3, 184

activities 178-80, 182, 184beaches 31, 178, 182, 183-4food 181, 183, 185-6

animals, see wildlifeAnnaberg Sugar Mill 152Annandale Falls 314Anse Céron 262Anse de Colombier 240Anse de Gouverneur 243Anse de Grande Saline 243Anse Dufour 265

Anse La Raye 296Anse Marcel 236Anse Noire 265Anses d’Arlet 267Antigua 20, 46, 186-95Arawak people 420-1Arikok National Wildlife

Park 345-6art galleries, see galleriesAruba 27, 338-46, 342

accommodations 386costs 386diving 442-3electricity 386food 386, 430health 386holidays 387travel to/from 388travel within 389visas 388weights & measures 386

Asa Wright Nature Centre 368-9

ATMs 48

BBacardí Rum Factory 123Bahía de Las Águilas 90Banx, Bankie 183Barbados 24, 317-27Barbuda 46, 195-7, 196Basse-Terre (Guadeloupe)

250-6Basseterre (St Kitts) 207-10,

207Bathsheba 327Bávaro 91-3, 92beaches 13

Accra Beach 321Anse Céron 262Anse Chastanet 297Anse de Colombier 240Anse de Gouverneur 243Anse de Grande Saline 243Anse de Tartane 264Anse Laborde 248

Anse l’Étang 264Anse Mamin 297Anse Noire 265Anse Souffler 248-9Bahía de Las Águilas 90Baie aux Prunes

(Plum Bay) 233Baie Longue 233Baie Rouge 233Balneario Escambrón 112Bambarra Beach 397Bathway Beach 315Batibou Bay 289Brewers Bay 160Cane Garden Bay 160Cinnamon Bay 152Cockleshell Beach 213Cornwall Beach 66Cove Bay 182Dickenson Bay 186Doctor’s Cave Beach 65-6Dover Beach 323Ffryes Beach 190-1Galleon Beach 193Grace Bay Beach 392Grand Anse (Grenada

Island) 312Grande Anse (Basse-Terre)

251Grande Anse (Martinique)

265Grande Anse des

Salines 269Half Moon Bay 193Hermitage Bay 190Honeymoon Beach 152Jabberwock beach 186Josiah’s Bay 161-2Kite Beach 100La Brèche 264Long Bay 70Lovers Beach 216Magens Bay 140-2Maho Beach 11, 231Malgretoute Beach 297Man of War Bay 385Meads Bay 182000 Map pages

465465

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INDEX B

Mero Beach 287Morris Bay Beach 191Mt Irvine Beach 379Nisbet Beach 216North Friar’s Bay 213Ocho Rios 63Oualie Beach 216Pigeon Point Beach

(Antigua) 193Pigeon Point (Tobago) 374Pingouin Beach 313Pinney’s Beach 216Pirate’s Bay 385Plage de Clugny 252Plage de Grande Anse 265Plage du Diamant 268Playa Arena Gorda 91Playa Caracas 125Playa Condado 112-14Playa del Macao 91Playa Encuentro 100Playa Flamenco 127Playa Isla Verde 114Playa La Plata 125Playa Luquillo 124Playa Rincón 94Playa Tamarindo 128Playa Zoni 127-8Reduit Beach 293Rendezvous Bay (Anguilla)

182Rendezvous Bay (Antigua)

193Rendezvous Bay

(Montserrat) 412Sandy Ground 178Seven Mile Beach 402Shell Beach 238Shoal Bay East 183-4Shoal Bay West 182South Friar’s Bay 213South Frigate Bay 213Spring Bay 163-4Stonehaven Bay 380Store Bay 374

Sun Bay 125Treasure Beach 29, 73-4Trunk Bay 152Turner’s Beach 191Turtle Beach 380Valley Church Beach 190White Bay 168-9White House Bay 213

Belleplaine 327Belvedere Hill 317Bequia 303-7bicycle travel, see cyclingBioluminescent Bay 125bird-watching

Asa Wright Nature Centre 368-9

Caroni Bird Sanctuary 370Frigate Bird Sanctuary 197Little Tobago 384Syndicate Parrot

Reserve 288Tobago Forest Reserve 382Trinidad & Tobago 369

Bitter End 168Black River 74Blanchisseuse 370Blue Lagoon 62Blue Mountain Peak 62Blue Mountains & John Crown

National Park 62boat trips 435-41, 461

Bahía de Las Águilas 90Basse-Terre 254Bávaro & Punta Cana 91Bequia 304Grande Anse 266Grand-Rivière 263Grand-Terre 247Soufrière 298St Croix 153St John (US Virgin

Islands) 149St John’s (Antigua) 188St-Martin 234Tortola 157Virgin Gorda 164

Boca Prins 346

Bodden Town 408Bogles 317Boiling Lake 285Boka Tabla 356Bonaire 346-50

accommodations 386costs 386diving 30, 349electricity 386food 386, 430health 386holidays 387-8travel to/from 388travel within 389visas 388weights & measures 386

Bonaire National Marine Park 349

books 47Boston Bay 63Bourg des Saintes 252Brewers Bay 160Bridgetown 317-20, 318-19British Virgin Islands 17, 136-

9, 157-73, 141accommodations 169costs 169diving 443electricity 171food 148, 169, 431health 169internet access 169languages 170money 170opening hours 170ports 142telephone services 171time 171tourist information 171travel to/from 171-2travel within 172-3weights & measures 171

Buccoo 378-9Buccoo Reef 378Buck Island Reef National

Monument 153budgeting 48-9, 451-4000 Map pages

466466


INDEX B-Cbus travel 461business hours, see opening

hours

CCabarete 100-2Cabrits National Park 288Cades Bay 190-3Caicos Islands 392-7, 393Calibishie 289-90Callwood, Foxy 166, 167Cane Garden Bay 159-61Canouan 307car travel 461-2Carenage, the 12, 310Carib people 291, 421Carib Territory 291Carnival (Trinidad) 24, 42,

359Caroni Bird Sanctuary 370Carriacou 316-17Castara 381Castries 291-2, 291cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Boka Tabla 356Parque Nacional Los

Haitises 98Two Foot Bay National

Park 195Widowmakers Cave 66

Cayman Brac 410Cayman Islands 401-15, 402

accommodations 410costs 410diving 443-4electricity 411food 410, 431health 410highlights 401holidays 410-11money 410ports 403telephone services 411time 411

travel to/from 411travel within 411visas 411weights & measures 411

Cayo Levantado 94Cays, the 397cell phones 48Chaguaramas 367-8Chalk Sound National

Park 394Champagne Reef 286Charlestown 215-16Charlotte Amalie 140-4, 143Charlotteville 385-6Cherry Tree Hill 327children, travel with 427-8chocolate 317Choiseul 298Christiansted 152-5Christoffel National

Park 355-6churches & cathedrals

Catedral de San Juan 117Catedral Primada de

América 82Cathedral of the Immaculate

Conception (Castries) 291-2

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (St George’s) 310

Cathédrale St-Louis 257Convento de la Orden de los

Predicadores 84Immaculate Conception

Cathedral 207St Michael’s Cathedral 318

Chutes du Carbet 254-5Clifton 308climate 42-5, 48Cocal 371Cockburn Town 13, 398-9cocktails 432Codrington 195-7colonial towns 25Columbus, Christopher 421Columbus, Diego 84

Condado 120, 116Condado Vanderbilt

Hotel 46, 120Cooper Island 167costs 49, 451-4

Cayman Islands 410cruises 437-8Dominican Republic 104French Antilles 271Jamaica 74, 75Leeward Islands 219Montserrat 415Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 399US & British Virgin

Islands 169Windward Islands 327-8

Coward, Sir Noel 65Crop-Over Festival 44Crown Point 374-8cruises 435-41Cruz Bay 148-51Culebra 127-9culture 418-19Curaçao 23, 351-6

accommodations 386costs 386diving 351, 444electricity 386food 386, 430health 386holidays 388travel to/from 388-9travel within 390visas 388weights & measures 386

currency 48customs regulations 457cycling 461

Cayman Islands 411Nevis 217San Juan 118St Croix 155Tobago 375

467467


INDEX D-F

DDamajagua 101dangers, see safetyDennery 292Deshaies 19, 251-3Devil’s Bridge 189Diamant 268disabilities, travelers with

459-60distilleries

Bacardí Rum Factory 123Betty’s Hope 189Callwood Rum Distillery 160Cruzan Rum Distillery 156Distillerie Depaz 261Distillerie Poisson 254Mount Gay Rum Visitors

Centre 320River Antoine Rum

Distillery 315diving 442-7

Anguilla 178-80, 184Antigua 442Aruba 342, 442Barbados 443Barbuda 442Basse-Terre 255Bequia 304Bonaire 30, 349, 443British Virgin

Islands 164, 443Carriacou 316Cayman Islands 443-4Culebra 128Curaçao 351, 444Dominica 444Dominican Republic 444English Harbour 194Grand Cayman 403Grande Anse 266Grand Turk 398Grenada 312, 444-5Guadeloupe 445Jamaica 445

Jolley Harbour 191Las Galeras 95Las Terrenas 96-7Le Diamant 268Little Cayman 409Martinique 445Montego Bay 66Nevis 217Ocho Rios 63Portsmouth 288Providenciales 394Puerto Rico 445Saba 199, 445San Juan & around 118Sint Eustatius 204-5, 447Soufrière 298St-Barthélemy 238, 242,

446St Croix 153, 155St Lucia 293, 446St-Martin 234St-Pierre 261St Vincent & the Grenadines

446Tobago 375, 447Trinidad 447Turks & Caicos 447US Virgin Islands 447Virgin Gorda 164

Dominica 15, 280-91Dominican Republic 21, 78-

107, 83accommodations 104costs 104diving 444electricity 106food 104, 431-2health 104highlights 81holidays 105itineraries 80-1money 104-5newspapers 106opening hours 105ports 84telephone services 106travel to/from 106

travel within 106-7TV & radio 106visas 106weights & measures 106

driving, see car travelDune Preserve 183

EEast Caicos 396East End 146-8economy 419electricity 457

Cayman Islands 411Dominican Republic 106Jamaica 74Leeward Islands 219Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 400US & British Virgin

Islands 171Windward Islands 328

El Yunque 124El Yunque National Forest 124Emerald Pool 288English Harbour 20, 193-5Englishman’s Bay 381environmental issues

419, 440events 42-5exchange rates 49, 458

FFalls of Baleine 304Falmouth 69-70Falmouth Cruise Port 46,

69-70family travel 427-8Festival San Sebastián 42festivals 30, 42-5films 47, 425Firefly 65Flamands 240Flat Point 198000 Map pages

468468


INDEX F-Hfood 429-34, see also

individual locationsAntigua 429-30Aruba 430Barbados 430-1Bonaire 430Cayman Islands 410, 431Curaçao 430Dominican Republic 104,

431-2French Antilles 271, 432Jamaica 75, 432-3Leeward Islands 219Montserrat 415, 433Puerto Rico 122, 133, 433Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 399, 434US & British Virgin Islands

148, 169Virgin Islands 431Windward Islands 328

Fort George Cay 397Fort-de-France 256-9, 259forts 424

Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park 211

El Morro 114Fort Amsterdam 352Fort Berkeley 194Fort Charlotte 300Fort Christiansvaern 152-3Fort Frederick 310Fort George (St George’s)

309-10Fort George (The Cays) 397Fort Gustave 238Fort King George 382Fort Louis 232Fort Oranje 204, 205, 346Fort Shirley 288Fort Zoutman 338Fortaleza Ozama 84-5Fuerte San Cristóbal 114-16Shirley Heights 193

Frederiksted 155-6French Antilles 225-75, 229

accommodations 271

costs 271food 271, 432health 271highlights 227holidays 272-3itineraries 226-7languages 271money 271-2opening hours 272ports 230telephone services 273travel to/from 273-5travel within 275visas 273

French Cay 397Friar’s Bay 233Friendship Bay 306Frigate Bay 213-14Frigate Bird Sanctuary 197

Ggalleries

Fig Tree Studio Art Gallery 193

Green VI Glass Studio 160Museo de Arte

de Ponce 130National Gallery of

Jamaica 54National Gallery of the

Cayman Islands 46, 403National Museum & Art

Gallery 359Yellow Poui Art Gallery 311

ganja 68, 74, 458Garvey, Marcus 68Gasparee Island 367gay travellers 75, 457George Town 401-7, 404Glistening Waters 70golf

Anguilla 182Frigate Bay 213Nevis 217Punta Cana 91

Gouyave 315-16

Grand Anse (Grenada Island) 312

Grand Case 233-6Grand Cayman 26, 401-9,

406-7Grand Cul-de-Sac 241-3Grand Etang National Park

314-15Grand Riviere (Tobago) 372Grand Turk 398-9, 399Grande Anse (Martinique)

265-6Grande Anse des Salines 269Grande-Terre 243-50Grand-Rivière (Martinique)

263Great Harbour 167-8Great Morass 74Greenwood 69Grenada 308-17Grenada Island 309-16, 309Grenadines 16, 299-308Grenville 315Gros Islet 292-4Gros Piton 297Guadeloupe 19, 243-56Guavate 121Gustavia 238-40

HHappy Bay 233Hastings 321-2health

Cayman Islands 410Dominican Republic 104French Antilles 271Leeward Islands 220Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 400US & British Virgin Islands

169Windward Islands 328

highlights 10-31Cayman Islands 401Dominican Republic 81French Antilles 227

469469


INDEX H-L

Jamaica 53Leeward Islands 177Montserrat 412Puerto Rico 111Southern Caribbean 337Turks & Caicos 392US & British Virgin


hikingBasse-Terre 255Blue Mountain Peak 62Boiling Lake 285Grand Etang National

Park 315Gros Piton 297La Soufrière 255Middleham Falls 286Mont Pelée 262Montserrat 414Presqu’île de Caravelle 264Saba 199-200Sint Eustatius 205St Croix 153Syndicate Parrot

Reserve 288Virgin Islands National

Park 149Hillsborough 316-17history 420-6hitchhiking 462Holetown 325holidays 458

Cayman Islands 410-11Dominican Republic 105French Antilles 272-3Jamaica 75Leeward Islands 220-3Montserrat 415Puerto Rico 133-4Southern Caribbean 387-8Turks & Caicos 400US & British Virgin

Islands 170-1Windward Islands 329-30

honeymoons 448-50hurricanes 49, 426

Iiguanas 405Îlet Pinel 236immigration 460insurance 458internet access 48, 169, 458itineraries 32-41

Dominican Republic 80-1French Antilles 226-7Jamaica 52-3Leeward Islands 176-7Puerto Rico 110-11Southern Caribbean 336-7US & British Virgin

Islands 138-9Windward Islands 278-9

JJamaica 51-77, 55

accommmodations 74costs 74, 75diving 445electricity 74food 75, 432-3gay & lesbian travellers 75highlights 53holidays 75itineraries 52-3money 75newspapers 74safety 74-5smoking 74telephone services 75travel to/from 76travel within 76-7visas 76weights & measures 74

Jarabacoa 102-3Jardin Botanique du

Carbet 46, 261Jolly Harbour 190-3Jost Van Dyke 166-9

KKalinago people 291kayaking

Anse Noire 265Grand Cayman 403Réserve Cousteau 255St Thomas 146-7

Kingston 54-60, 57, 58accommodations 56-7drinking & entertainment

58-9food 57-8sights 54-6travel to/from 59-60

Kingstown 300-2, 301kitesurfing 26

Cabarete 100Dominican Republic 26St John’s 187-8St Lucia 295

Kralendijk 346-8, 347

LLa Désirade 256La Soufrière 255Lac Bay 350Ladder Bay 203Lance aux Épines 314languages 48

French Antilles 271Jamaica 75Puerto Rico 1333Southern Caribbean 387US & British Virgin Islands

170Windwards Islands 329

Las Cuevas 369-70Las Galeras 94-6Las Terrenas 96-9Le Diamant 268Leeward Hwy 303Leeward Islands 174-223, 179

accommodations 219beaches 213electricity 219000 Map pages

470470


INDEX L-Mfood 219health 220highlights 177historic sites 211holidays 220-3itineraries 176-7money 220opening hours 220ports 180telephone services 221time 219travel to/from 221-2travel within 222-3weights & measures 219

legal matters 458Les Saintes 252lesbian travelers 75, 457Little Cayman 409-10Lorient 241Loterie Farm 232Lower Bay 305Luquillo 124luxury destinations 18

MMaho Bay 11, 231Maho Beach 11, 231Manchineel trees 459Manzanilla 371Maracas Bay 369Marie-Galante 254Marigot (Dominica) 290Marigot (St-Martin) 232-3Marigot Bay 296marijuana 68, 74, 458Marley, Bob 42, 54-6, 65Martinique 15, 46, 256-70Mayaro 371Mayreau 307-8measures, see weights &

measuresMero 287Micoud 292Middle Caicos 397mobile phones 48

money 48, 49, 458Cayman Islands 410Dominican Republic 104-5French Antilles 271-2Jamaica 75Leeward Islands 220Montserrat 415Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 387Turks & Caicos 400US & British Virgin


Montego Bay 65-9, 67Mont Pelée 261, 262Montserrat 412-15, 413

accommodations 415costs 415food 415, 433highlights 412holidays 415money 415telephone services 415travel to/from 415travel within 415

Morne Diablotin National Park 288

Morne Rouge Bay 312-13Morne Trois Pitons National

Park 285-6motorcycle travel 461-2Mt Scenery 202Mt Standfast 325Mullins Beach 325-6museums

Alexander Hamilton Museum 215

Aruba Archaeological Museum 338

Barbados Museum 320Bob Marley Museum 54-6Carriacou Museum 316Centre de Découverte des

Sciences de la Terre 260Curaçao Maritime Museum

353Devon House 56

Dominica Museum 282Dows Hill Interpretation

Centre 194Estate Whim Plantation

Museum 156Grenada National Museum

310Harry L Johnson Museum

199Heritage Collection Museum

181Mangazina di Rei 349Musée du Rhum 253-4Musée Schoelcher 244Musée St-John Perse 244Museo Alcázar de Coló 84Museo de Arte de Puerto

Rico 117Museo de las Américas 116Museo de las Casas Reales

82-4Museo de San Juan 117Museo Tula 355Museum Kura Hulanda 353Museum of Antigua &

Barbuda 186-7Museum of Nevis History

215National Gallery of the

Cayman Islands 46, 403National Museum (St

Kitts) 207National Museum & Art

Gallery (Trinidad) 359National Museum of

Montserrat 414Nidhe Israel Museum 318-19Nine Mile Museum 65North Shore Shell Museum

160Sint Eustatius Museum 204Tobago Museum 382Turks & Caicos National

Museum 398music 22, 47

festivals 42-5steel bands 366

Mustique 307471471


INDEX N-P

NNariva Swamp 371National Gallery of the

Cayman Islands 46, 403national parks & reserves

Arikok National Wildlife Park 345-6

Barkers National Park 408Blue Mountains & John

Crown National Park 62Bonaire National Marine

Park 349Brimstone Hill Fortress

National Park 211Cabrits National Park 288Chalk Sound National Park

394Christoffel National Park

355-6El Yunque National Forest

124Grand Etang National Par

314-15Morne Diablotin National

Park 288Morne Trois Pitons National

Park 285-6Parque Nacional Los

Haitises 98Réserve Cousteau 255Shete Boka National Park

356Tobago Forest Reserve 382Two Foot Bay National Park

195Virgin Islands National Park

148Washington-Slagbaai

National Park 350Negril 70-3Nevis 19, 215-19, 208-9Nevis Heritage Trail 215newspapers

Dominican Republic 106Jamaica 74

nightlife 17, see also individual locations

Nine Mile 65Norman Island 167North Caicos 397

OOcean Park 120, 121, 116Ocho Rios 63-5Oistins 323Old San Juan 27, 114-17, 115opening hours

Dominican Republic 105French Antilles 272Jamaica 75Leeward Islands 220Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 387US & British Virgin Islands


Oranjestad 18, 338-41, 341Orient Bay (La Baie Orientale)

236Otrobanda 352-3Oyster Pond 237

PPagua Bay 290Palmer, John 69panyards 366Parlatuvier 381-2Parque Nacional Los

Haitises 98Parrot Cay 397passports 460Paynes Bay 324-5Península de Samaná 94-9Petite Cayes 236Philipsburg 228-31Pietermaai 353Pigeon Island (French Antilles)

255-6Pigeon Island (St Lucia)

294-5

Pigeon Island National Landmark 294

pirates 422-3Pirates Week 45Pitch Lake 370Pitons 297-8Plage de Malendure 255-6planning

budgeting 48-9, 451-4calendar of events 42-5Caribbean basics 48-9children 427-8costs 451-4cruises 436itineraries 32-41repeat visitors 46resources 47travel seasons 42-5, 48weddings & honeymoons

448-50Playa Frontón 94Playa Madama 94Point Salines 313-14Pointe des Châteaux 248Pointe Milou 241-3Pointe-à-Pitre 244-7, 245Ponce 130-1, 131population 418Port Antonio 60-1Port Elizabeth 303-5Port of Spain 358-67, 360

accommodations 362-3drinking & nightlife 364-5food 363-4medical services 366shopping 365-6sights 358-62

Porte d’Enfer 249ports 436-7, 440

Cayman Islands 403Dominican Republic 84French Antilles 230Jamaica 56Leeward Islands 180Puerto Rico 114Southern Caribbean 340000 Map pages

472472


INDEX P-STurks & Caicos 398US & British Virgin


Portsmouth 288-9Presqu’île de Caravelle 263-5Presqu’île de Ste-

Anne 268-70Prickly Pear 182Providenciales 392-6, 394-5public holidays, see holidaysPuerto Rico 108-35, 113

accommodations 133costs 133diving 445electricity 133food 122, 133, 433highlights 111holidays 133-4itineraries 110-11money 133opening hours 133ports 114telephone services 134time 133travel to/from 134-5travel within 135visas 134weights & measures 133

Punta Cana 91-3, 92

Rrafting

Jarabacoa 102-3Rio Grande Valley 62

Rastafarianism 68Reach Falls 63Red Hook 146-8Reggae Sumfest 44religion 418reparations 418-19resorts 29Rincon (Bonaire) 349Rincón (Puerto Rico) 131-3Rio Grande Valley 61-2Road Town 157-9, 158

Rockley 321-2Rodney Bay 292-4Rose Hall 69Roseau 280-4, 283Roseau Valley 284-6Route de la Traversée 250-1ruins 424

Annaberg Sugar Mill 152Château Dubuc 264Fort Gustave 238Fort Louis 232Fort Shirley 288Jardin Botanique du

Carbet 46, 261Oranjestad 18, 338St-Pierre 260Wades Green Plantation

397rum 122, 253-4, 434, see

also distilleriesRum Point 408

SSaba 28, 46, 198-203, 198-9safety 74-5, 458-9Salisbury 287Salt Cay 396Salt Island 167Saltwhistle Bay 308San Juan 112-23, 115, 116-17

accommodations 119-20activities 118beaches 112-14drinking & entertainment

121-2festivals & events 119food 120-1shopping 122sights 114-17travel to/from 122travel within 122-3

San Nicolas 343Sandy Bay 302Santo Domingo 82-90, 86-7

accommodations 85activities 82-5

drinking & nightlife 88entertainment 88-9medical services 89shopping 89sights 82-5tours 85travel to/from 89-90travel within 90

Santurce 117Sauteurs 315Scarborough 382-3Scharloo 353Scotts Head 286-7Seabourne Airlines 46Seven Mile Beach 401-7Shete Boka National Park 356Silver Sands 324Simpson Bay 231Sint Eustatius 18, 46, 203-6Sint Maarten 11, 228-31slavery 418-19, 422smoking 75, 171snorkelling, see divingSoufrière 20, 297-8South Caicos 396Spaanse Water 355Spanish Town 163-6Speightstown 326Speyside 384-5Spring Bay 306-7St-Barthélemy 28, 237-43St Croix 152-6St-François 247-8St George’s 12, 309-12, 311St-Jean 240-1St John (US Virgin Islands)

148-52St John’s (Antigua) 186-90,

187St Kitts 206-14, 208-9St Lawrence Gap 323St Lucia 20, 291-9St-Martin 11, 232-7St-Pierre 260-2St Thomas 140-8St Vincent 300-3, 299

473473


INDEX S-V

Ste-Anne 268-70Ste-Rose 253-4steel bands 366Stingray City (Antigua) 189Stingray City (Grand Cayman)

26, 408stingrays 189, 408surfing 17

Barbados 24Bathsheba 327Cabarete 100Rincón 132

TTartane 263telephone services 48

Cayman Islands 411Dominican Republic 106French Antilles 273Jamaica 75Leeward Islands 221Montserrat 415Puerto Rico 134Southern Caribbean 388US & British Virgin


Terre-de-Haut 252Terres Basses 233time 459

Cayman Islands 411Dominican Republic 105Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 400US & British Virgin


tipping 437Southern Caribbean 386US & British Virgin


Tobago 372-86, 373accommodations 386costs 386electricity 386food 386health 386holidays 388travel to/from 389travel within 390visas 388weights & measures 386

Tobago Cays 308Tobago Forest Reserve 382Toco 371-2Tortola 17, 157-63tourist information, see

individual locationstravel to/from the Caribbean

460-1travel within the Caribbean

49, 461-2Treasure Beach 29, 73-4Trench Town 54Trinidad 24, 356-72, 357

accommodations 386costs 386electricity 386food 386health 386holidays 388travel to/from 389travel within 390visas 388weights & measures 386

True Blue 313-14Tucker Valley 367Turks & Caicos 13, 392-415,

393accommodations 399costs 399diving 447electricity 400food 399, 434health 400highlights 392holidays 400money 400

ports 398time 400travel to/from 400travel within 400visas 400weights & measures 400

Turks Islands 398-9, 393Two Foot Bay National

Park 195

UUnderwater Sculpture

Park 312Union Island 308US & British Virgin Islands

136-73, 141highlights 139itineraries 138-9

US Virgin Islands 140-56, 141accommodations 169costs 169diving 447electricity 171food 148, 169, 431health 169holidays 170internet access 169languages 170money 170opening hours 170ports 142telephone services 171time 171tourist information 171travel to/from 171-2travel within 172-3weights & measures 171

Vvacations, see holidaysVermont Nature Trails 303Vieques 124-7Vieux Fort 299Virgin Gorda 163-6000 Map pages

474474


INDEX V-ZVirgin Islands, see British

Virgin Islands, US Virgin Islands

Virgin Islands National Park 148

visas 48, 460Cayman Islands 411Dominican Republic 106French Antilles 273Jamaica 76Puerto Rico 134Southern Caribbean 388Turks & Caicos 400Windward Islands 330

volcanoesLa Soufrière 255Mont Pelée 261, 262Montserrat 412-13St Kitts 210Statia 205

WWaitkubuli National Trail 285Wallilabou Bay 303Washington, George 319Washington-Slagbaai National

Park 350water 49waterfalls

Annandale Falls 314Argyle Falls 383Cascada El Limón 96Chutes du Carbet 254-5Damajagua 101

Dunn’s River Falls 63Falls of Baleine 304Jarabacoa 102Middleham Falls 286Reach Falls 63Trafalgar Falls 284-5

Water Island 142weather 42-5, 48websites 47weddings 448-50weights & measures 460

Cayman Islands 411Dominican Republic 106Jamaica 74Leeward Islands 219Puerto Rico 133Southern Caribbean 386Turks & Caicos 400US & British Virgin Islands


West Bay 408Weston 325Westpunt 355whale watching 94, 397White Bay 168-9Widowmakers Cave 66wi-fi 48, 458wildlife 26, 94, 125, 189, 345Willemstad 23, 351-5, 352windsurfing

Aruba 342Silver Sands 324St John’s 187

Windward 317

Windward Highway 302Windward Islands 276-333,

281accommodations 327-8costs 327-8electricity 328food 328health 328highlights 279holidays 329-30itineraries 278-9languages 329money 329ports 282telephone services 330time 328tipping 328travel to/from 331travel within 331-3visas 330weights & measures 328

Windwardside 198-202women travelers 460Worthing 322-3Wotten Waven 285

Zzip-lining 212

Antigua 191Chaguaramas 367Rodney Bay 294Soufrière 297St Kitts 212

475475


IMore Writers

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9831st edition – November 2014ISBN 9781743219034© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our WritersOur Writers

Our StoryOur StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

RYAN VER BERKMOESAruba, Barbados, Bonaire, Cayman Islands, Curaçao, Dominica, Grenada, Puerto Rico, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadines, Turks & Caicos Ryan grew up in the beach town of Santa Cruz, CA, and always feels at home with a little sand lodged between his toes. He's written about beaches worldwide but still can never get over the stunningly turquoise Caribbean and the often blindingly white beaches. Off-island, Ryan splits his time between the US and Europe and writes about islands, travel and more at ryanverberkmoes.com. Follow him @ryanvb on Twitter.

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLETFrench Antilles, Diving & Snorkeling On a quest to find the best beaches and best dive sites in the world, Jean-Bernard has clocked up dozens of trips to idyllic islands throughout the world, from the Seychelles and Tahiti to the Bahamas and St-Barthélemy. A French freelance writer and photographer based in Paris, he was all too happy to research the French Antilles for this edition. Being a dive instructor, he also checked out some great diving and snorkeling sites off Guadeloupe and Martinique.

PAUL CLAMMERJamaica Paul Clammer has contributed to over 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks, and has worked as a tour guide in countries from Turkey to Morocco. In a previous life he may even have been a molecular biologist. Having spent a year living in post-earthquake Port-au-Prince, Haiti, Jamaica was always high on his travel list. One of the most important lessons he learned on this research trip was that if you stay out until 4am drinking rum at a dancehall street party in a Kingston ghetto, don’t expect to get too many hotel reviews done the next day.

MICHAEL GROSBERGDominican Republic Michael has written three editions of the Lonely Planet Dominican Republic guidebook. In addition to his Lonely Planet assignments, he’s visited the Dominican Republic on other occasions, going back to his graduate-school days when he was focusing on the literature and culture of Latin America. Michael is based in Brooklyn, New York City, and usually writes just down the street from several Dominican restaurants where he gets his lunch. A reformed academic/journalist by trade, Michael has worked on more than 30 Lonely Planet books.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

anet books.

Read more about Michael at:lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/profiles/michaelgrosberg

m at a dancehall street party in a Kingston ghetto, don t

Read more about Paul at: lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/profi les/paulclammer

t islands, travel and more at ryanverberkmoes.com.

Read more about Ryan at:lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/profiles/ryanverberkmoes

RASoHCthF

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KEVIN RAUB Dominican Republic Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. On his second run through the Dominican Republic, he found Eden (again!) at the end of the road in Bahía de Las Águilas. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad).

BRENDAN SAINSBURYJamaica Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan grew up appreciating Jamaica from his safe European home; coupling a teenage penchant for punk reggae with a lifelong love of cricket. His curiosity was further piqued while living in London’s quintessential Jamaican district, Brixton, during the 1990s. When Lonely Planet came knocking, Brendan jumped at the chance to track 90 miles south from his customary haunt, Cuba, to sample Negril’s sunsets and Treasure Beach’s beautiful languor. He has since developed a healthy appetite for Red Stripe beer, Blue Mountain coffee and saying the words ‘yah mon!’ at the end of every sentence.

ANDREA SCHULTE-PEEVERSLeeward Islands, Monserrat Andrea has traveled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to around 75 countries, but she'll forever cherish the memory of first sailing around the Caribbean some 20 years ago and being instantly charmed by the people, the rich tapestry of traditions and, of course, the gorgeous beaches. She’s returned many times to the islands, both privately and on assignment for Lonely Planet. Her current home is in Berlin.

POLLY THOMASTrinidad & Tobago A longstanding lover of reggae, rum and soca, Polly’s interest in the Caribbean began long before she touched down in Jamaica as an 18-year-old. She began writing about the region in the mid-1990s and has since authored guidebooks to Jamaica, Trinidad and Tobago, Antigua and St Lucia, as well as many articles on these and other islands. After four years living in Port of Spain, Trinidad, she’s now pining for roti and doubles back in the UK.

LUKE WATERSONPuerto Rico Whether it’s the spontaneous street parties, the sun-kissed spirit of revolution or the wicked coffee, Luke and Latin America are in love. Having authored Lonely Planet guidebooks from Cuba to Peru, he relished tracking down the Latino soul of the USA’s Caribbean outpost (finding lots of street parties, revolution and coffee). Hiking in the central mountains and caffeine-refuelling at hidden haciendas were his top experiences this time round. (Well, the cold box of beer with the off-duty marines on that idyllic cay wasn’t bad.) Luke lives in Slovakia; examples of his work can be found on his blog at http://englishmaninslovakia.com.

KARLA ZIMMERMANUS & British Virgin Islands During her island travels Karla hiked by wild donkeys on St John, ate an embarrassing number of rotis on Tortola, bashed through the Baths on Virgin Gorda and felt no pain on Jost Van Dyke. She first bounced around the Virgins when she was a kid, and she still remembers the awe of seeing the true-blue hue of Magens Bay that initial time. Karla writes travel features for books, magazines and online outlets. She has authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guidebooks to the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Follow her at @karlazimmerman on Twitter.

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Read more about Kevin at: lonelyplanet.com/members/kraub

ow her at @karlazimmerman on Twitter.

Read more about Karla at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

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Read more about Luke at: lonelyplanet.com/members/lukewaterson

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Read more about Brendan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

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