STEP TWO: solder the resistors

R3: 860 ohms(Grey-Blue-

BROWN)

R1: 1K (BROWN-

BLACK-RED)

R2: 10k(BROWN-BLACK-

ORANGE) Do the capacitors next. The 47uf caps are polarized so match the + sides to the marking on the pcb.

c4: 47uF C5: 47uF

Your words here...

C1,C2:.1uF Blue

caps

Solder the 16 MHZ resonator (X1); IT's a small brownish

organge (or blue) bulb with three prongs

NEXT ADD the 10uF (C3) capacitor. Make sure the positive side matches the

marking on the board

solder in the volume trimpot.

We'll add the plastic wheel

later.

STEP ONE: NORMALLY you'd wait until the end to put the microcontroller in the socket, but it's a little tricky

when all the parts are on the board, so LET's do that first. You'll need to

bend the pins inward a little.

The byteseeker is an arduino variant that can generate 8-bit (Low fi) music. the version we're building today is a bytebeat player; see moderndevice.com for more background.

The regulator

(VREG) takes the 9v input

and regulates it

down to a nice even 5v.

Before you solder on the power jack or pots, attach the battery jack to the two holes marked Vin

from the back. connect red to the + side, black to ground.

Solder the two blue pots. they should go in with two pins on top and one in the

bottom (see detail)

Solder the audio jack. the best way is to tack down one pin with a bit of solder on the tip of your iron, then solder

the other pins.

NEXT, add the two switches and the power

jack.

finally, attach the

thumbwheel to the volume knob.

You'll need an ftdi cable or a usb-bub (or ftdi friend) to program the micro controller using

the programming header. use the uno boot loader in the arduino ide.

At some point this LED was ADDED...