An investigation into the Afro-Caribbean

Hair market in the West end of Glasgow

Presented by Maria Onotu

BA (Honours) Marketing

2015

I certify that all material in this dissertation which is not my own is duly

acknowledged. I have read and understand the section in the

programme handbook dealing with plagiarism

HONOURS DISSERTATIONS SESSION 2014/15

School of Business and Enterprise

Library Registration

Surname ONOTU

Forenames MARIA

Banner ID B00257824

Degree Title

BA (HONS) MARKETING

Dissertation Supervisor JAMES WATT

Dissertation Title An investigation into the Afro-Caribbean Hair market in the West end of Glasgow.

This form must be bound in your dissertation (immediately after your title page)

before submission. Your dissertation cannot be accepted unless this form or the

confidential dissertation form is bound into your dissertation.

ABSTRACT

Natural hair products are essential for the scalp of Afro-Caribbean women. An

investigation to Department stores, African and Non-African Salons would be

carried out. In order to discover how well do they meet the growing natural hair

African segment.

The research will concentrate on African women who reside at the West end of

Glasgow.

The author will interview 1 African Salon and 1 Non-African Salon, as well as

carrying out Online and Telephone Interviews to obtain vital information from

participants.

A background of the African population in UK would be given to enable the

researcher to make comparisons between the African market, principally in London

and Glasgow; this will follow with information in regards to the African Hair and

Make-up issues.

The researcher has provided secondary information in regards to Ethnic

Segmentation and Market segmentation to enable the reader to have a better

understanding on the issues at hand.

Acknowledgements

I would like to take this opportunity to thank my family for their patience and

understanding while carrying out my dissertation.

My appreciation is also given to all those respondents who participated in the

Online Survey and Telephone interview, as well as to the Managers from the

selected Salons for their co-operation.

I finally express my gratitude to my dissertation adviser, James Watt for guidance

and support over the past months, and I would also like to thank my mentor Brian

Trait for guidance.

Copyright

“The copyright of this dissertation rests with the author. No quotation from it should be

published without his/her prior written consent and information derived from it should

be acknowledged”.

Table of Contents Chapter 1: INTRODUCTION............................................................................................................... 1

1.1. Population ........................................................................................................................ 1

African Immigration within UK ................................................................................................. 1

1.2. HAIR .................................................................................................................................. 6

African Hair Market .................................................................................................................. 6

1.3. MAKE-UP .......................................................................................................................... 8

Ethnic Beauty ............................................................................................................................ 8

1.4. Research Aims/ Objectives ............................................................................................. 10

Chapter 2: Literature Review.......................................................................................................... 11

2.1 Concept of Market Segmentation ........................................................................................ 11

2.2. What is Market Segmentation? ........................................................................................... 12

2.3. Heterogeneous Market ....................................................................................................... 13

2.4. Advantages of Segmentation .............................................................................................. 14

2.5. Limitations of Segmentation ............................................................................................... 16

2.6. Multicultural Marketing ...................................................................................................... 17

2.7. Acculturation ................................................................................................................... 20

2.8. Segmentation Types ............................................................................................................ 21

2.8.1 Geographic segmentation ............................................................................................. 21

2.8.2 Psychographic segmentation ........................................................................................ 24

2.8.3 Behavioural segmentation ............................................................................................ 25

2.8.4 Demographic segmentation .......................................................................................... 26

2.9 Ethnic Marketing .............................................................................................................. 26

2.10 Race and Ethnic variables ............................................................................................... 33

2.11 Why is ethnic segmentation important? ........................................................................ 35

2.12 Race-Relation cycles ....................................................................................................... 37

Chapter 3: Methodology ................................................................................................................ 39

3.1 Research Approach ............................................................................................................... 39

3.2 Research Philosophy ............................................................................................................. 40

3.3 Research Methods ................................................................................................................ 41

3.3.1 Sampling ........................................................................................................................ 42

3.3.2 Qualitative and Quantitative Research Methods .......................................................... 43

3.3.4 Questionnaires .............................................................................................................. 46

3.3.5 Semi-structured interviews ........................................................................................... 46

3.3.6 In-depth interviews ...................................................................................................... 47

3.3.7 Telephone Interview ...................................................................................................... 48

3.3.8 Online Survey ................................................................................................................. 49

3.3.9 Open question ............................................................................................................... 50

3.4 Limitations ............................................................................................................................ 50

3.4.1 Focus Groups ................................................................................................................. 50

3.4.2 Reflections .............................................................................................................. 51

Chapter 4: Findings ......................................................................................................................... 53

4.1 Findings from Online Survey................................................................................................. 54

Q1. Attitudes towards African Hair and Make-up products in Glasgow ................................ 54

Q2. Marketing to Africa women’s hair ................................................................................... 57

4.1.1. Telephone Interview......................................................................................................... 61

4.1.2 Surveys for African and Non-African Salons ...................................................................... 63

African Salon Survey ............................................................................................................... 63

Non-African Salons Survey ..................................................................................................... 65

Chapter 5: Analysis ......................................................................................................................... 66

Findings Analysis ......................................................................................................................... 66

5.1 African population growth ............................................................................................... 66

5.2 African women Department store convenience .............................................................. 67

5.3 Department Stores lack of Marketing to the African segment in Glasgow ...................... 68

5.4 African Salon awareness on the African hair .................................................................... 71

5.5. Non-African Salon awareness on the African Market in Glasgow .............................. 74

5.6 Recommendations and Reflections ...................................................................................... 76

Appendices ..................................................................................................................................... 79

Appendix 1: African type make-up brands ................................................................................. 79

Appendix 2: Population by ethnic group in April, 2001 ............................................................. 80

Appendix 3: Quotes from African women’s hair experience: .................................................... 81

Appendix 4: Afro Hair styles ....................................................................................................... 82

Appendix 5: Saunders et al (2009) highlights the three main sources of Literature as: ............ 84

Appendix 6: Q2 Online Survey .................................................................................................... 84

Appendix 7: Telephone Interview .............................................................................................. 86

Appendix 8: African Salons ......................................................................................................... 87

Appendix 9: Non-African Salons ................................................................................................. 87

References ...................................................................................................................................... 89

1

Chapter 1: INTRODUCTION

1.1. Population

The growth of markets across the world has been linked to an important extent to ethnic

minority owned business. National Statistic Office 2001, propose that there are around

4.6 million ethnic minority businesses. The size of minority ethnic population in Scotland

has rapidly increased predominantly, the African population.

African Immigration within UK

According to Employability Scotland 2014, the African population grew rapidly from 5,000

in 2001 to 30,000 in 2011, growth was mainly due to immigration from families and

students studying over in Scotland and later acquiring a job or staying permanently

(Migration Statistics Quarterly Report, November 2014) “Work and study visas grants

continued to rise in the year ending September 2014, by 6% (+9,500) and 3% (+6,100)

respectively. These trends reflected higher levels of both skilled work visas granted and

university sponsored applications”. (Trade Union and Black and Minority Ethnic workers

in Scotland, 2004) 7% of the BME population in Scotland are full-time students compared

with 4% of the Scottish population.

2

According to the General Office for Scotland/Mintel, Overseas ethnic group tourist. There

are three different types of ethnic minority consumers:

1. Those who reside in the UK, who are from non-white ethnic groups and might have

been born/migrated to the UK.

2. Migrants who reside in the country for less than 3-6 months due to economic reasons.

3. Visitors from ethnic minority groups who come for visit either for business, friends or

holidays.

3

An illustration of the number of Ethnic minority groups born in the UK, (Office of National

Statistics), a focus on ethnic and identity data;

People living in Great Britain who were born in the United Kingdom: by ethnic group, April 2001

Great Britain

All ages

United

Kingdom

White British 98.16

White Irish 34.24

Other White 20.56

Mixed 79.22

Indian 45.92

Pakistani 54.98

Bangladeshi 46.44

Other Asian 30.81

Black Caribbean 57.86

Black African 33.74

Other Black 79.10

Chinese 28.73

Any other ethnic group 15.56

All ethnic groups 91.55

4

Source: 2001 Censuses, Office for National Statistics, General Register Office for

Scotland

In the table above the value of number are on thousands.

Research of Office for National Statistics (focus on ethnicity data and identity data)

illustrated the growth increased of Africans in Scotland compared to England. Census data

verified a higher percentage of ethnic minority backgrounds living in large urban areas

compared to the white population.

Only 39% of the total population of Scotland live in large urban areas, Africans have a

higher proportion of 76%. Glasgow has the highest percentage of minority ethnic with

31% of the total minority ethnic population living in the city; Edinburgh follows with 18%,

the lowest concentrations are found in rural areas such as Angus (0.8%) and Orkney Isles

(0.1%).

According to Ethnic population Projections for Scotland, 2011 “ The UK in 2051 will be a

more diverse society than in 2001 and this diversity will have spread out to many more

parts of the country beyond the big cities where ethnic minorities are concentrated today.”

In their findings they stated that there will be potential growth in the Black population by

93% in 2051.

According to the diagram below, the African population is of 5% which is close to the

entire Glasgow population. The Glasgow population is of 592. 820 (National Records of

Scotland, 2001).

5

Figure 1: Shows the Immigration population by region in London, adapted from Middlesex

and London County.

Professor Philip Rees of Leeds University, declared that the fastest growing ethnic groups

are “Other White” followed by the Black African, Pakistani and Indian ethnic groups. Philip

further added that they “will shift out of deprived inner-city areas to more affluent areas,

which echoes the way white groups have migrated in the past”. His research showed the

shrinkage of White British group from 87.1% to 67.1%, Asian group increase by 3%, Blacks

6

by 2% and Chinese and other by 2.6% points. Philip claims that white Britons will be a

minority by 2066.

1.2. HAIR

African Hair Market

According to Think Ethnic (2014). The Afro-Caribbean hair market is profitable with

various mainstream and independent brands existing in the market. Some brands have

been exclusively created for the rising demand of natural hair care ingredients. The

demand is increasingly high for ethnic products to suit the unique Afro-Caribbean hair.

Globally, the hair care market is valued at £427 million, is estimated to rise to £475 million

by 2017.

Ethnic minority market represents 5% of the market. However, if companies invest finance

on research, product development and advertisement there’s a probability that an

enormous profit could be made (Think Ethnic, 2014).

In spite of growth of the African population in the UK, majority of hair beauty stores have

not done enough to address the African population’s need (Colour Cosmetic UK-JULY

2014). The new face of Britain has become highly diversified, “ethnic minorities in UK have

an estimated spending power of £300 billion” new diverse and thriving markets have been

able to take advantage of such demands. Nevertheless, Britain has been slow to get hold

of these opportunities, particularly in the area of hair care (Think ethnic, 2014).

Department stores like Boots and Superdrug have the ability to supply products

orientated to the Afro-Caribbean hair market. In 2012-13 strong pace of growth came

7

from advancements in retail initiative and in-store treatments as well of partnership with

brands and departments stores (Colour Cosmetic UK-JULY 2014).

Figure 2; shows the side effect of Sulphate on Afro-Caribbean hair.

Shampoo or conditioners containing sulphate are unsafe for Afro-Caribbean hair.

According to Hair Naturel (2005-2015), Sodium Laurel or lauryl sulphate (SLS) is a chemical

found in garage floor cleaners, car washes and engine degreasers as well as in over 95%

of personal product care. (SLS) when combined with other chemicals it becomes

“nitrosamine” which causes hair loss. (SLS) is a powerful degreaser that removes all the

dirt from the hair and scalp but it also removes the natural oils which makes the hair drier

and (SLS) may remain in the scalp, such a minor chemical can have serious bad side effects.

8

1.3. MAKE-UP

Ethnic Beauty

The subject of marketing make-up products to ethnic minorities groups has been

discussed in Mintel (Ethic Beauty-Uk-2009). The market of ethnic beauty is valued at £70

million even though white make up the majority of the English population, recent growth

comes from all ethnic groups by 23% between 2004 and 2009. According to Colour

Cosmetic UK-July-2014 “Over a quarter (26%) of face colour cosmetics users struggle to

find products to match their skin tone, rising to 40% amongst 16-24-year-old”. Boots

provides a machine that was supposed to match any skin tone (Boots, 2015). However,

evidence suggest that the new make-up matching technology is not as successful on

African skin tones.

9

Figure 3; Make-up Skin matching (Boots, 2015)

Quotes from African Women:

“I have tried to go twice on 1 day

and the machine showed two

different colour shades”

“The machine was unable to

identify my colour shade as it

showed error”

“The colour matched identified by the machine made my skin look green or yellower”

The ethnic mix in the UK is changing, with young women likely to have a wider range of

natural skin tones (Superdrug, 2015).

The author was able to provide background information on the Afro-Caribbean hair and

make-up issues and information on the African growth in the UK predominately in

Scotland (Glasgow).

10

1.4. Research Aims/ Objectives

Taking what the author have learned and understanding about the African population in

the UK, and various issues surrounding the Ethnic minority Hair and Make-up markets.

The aims and objective of this report are:

1. To undertake a literature review into market segmentation and ethnic segmentation.

2. To undertake primary and secondary research on the hair, make-up and African

markets in Glasgow.

3. To analyse the variation methods of data collection available to aid the study.

4. To present the findings from this research and to analyse the information gained.

5. To provide recommendations for future research.

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Chapter 2: Literature Review

The literature review will highlight and review what others have wrote about

segmentation and ethnic segmentation as well as information on the African’s hair,

makeup and African population segmentation within UK.

“The essence of successful segmentation lies not in fragmentation but in building an

excellent understanding of the marketplace” (Dibb, 2012 Ch7).

2.1 Concept of Market Segmentation

For decades marketers have been using one marketing plan to satisfy the entire market’s

needs. However, with customer’s demands increasing, companies have found themselves

under pressure with competitors, which resulted in a move from mass market to segment

marketing (Burk, 2003). Products compete with one another on an attempt to satisfy the

needs and wants of those customers, segmentation provides a better understanding of

the customer to the business. Through segmentation an organisation aims to obtain a

middle ground, where it does not entirely relies on a marketing program for all customers,

neither does it involve on the high cost of developing a personal program for each

customer (Gary, L. 1998).

Marketers rely on judgement to make decisions based on which segment to target and

how much potential the targeted segment will offer. Other marketers follow the lead of

competitors or earlier entrants (Eztel, 1997). Structure analysis is another option which

allows marketers to obtain insight and opportunities that would have been taken for

granted with the use of a small budget.

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2.2. What is Market Segmentation?

Market segmentation consists of the identification of segmentation variables followed by

segmentation of the market. Wendell Smith introduced the concept of market

segmentation fifty years ago, as an unconventional marketing strategy in a place where

diversity had become the market norm, and defined as “viewing a heterogeneous market

as a number of smaller homogeneous markets, in response to differing preferences,

attributable to desires of consumers for more precise satisfaction of their varying wants”

(Smith, 1956, p. 6). He recognised its similarities to product differentiation, both lead to

different sets of products from a given manufacture but both procedures had opposite

orientation.

Differentiation focuses on the supply side and aimed to align demand with supplier’s

priorities via promotion and advertising whereas segmentation focuses on demand

orientation and accepted marketplace heterogeneity (Smith, 1956).

“Creating different products only becomes effective following segmentation. The truly

successful company must first find segments and then create products and services fitting

their needs” (Wendell, S. 1956).

Smith stated that in order to be successful in the planning of marketing activities,

application of both product differentiation and market segmentation is vital since it

provides a greater customer satisfaction, leading to greater over-all stability and secure

market position. (p.7).

13

Businesses from all industry sectors use market segmentation in their marketing and

strategic planning. For many, market segmentation is regarded as the panacea of modern

marketing (Wind, 1978). Customer’s needs are becoming progressively diverse and they

can no longer be satisfied by a mass marketing approach. Business can manage this

diversity by grouping customers with similar requirements and buying behaviour into

segments, thus enabling companies to make choices into which segment to target and

making good use of their resources.

2.3. Heterogeneous Market

The undifferentiated market approach suggests that all customers have similar needs and

wants and those needs/wants could be distributed with a single marketing mix. Although

this approach could be useful, in some specific products it cannot be used for the mass

market due to the fact that some markets have customers with different needs/wants

(Dibb, 2012). Market segmentation involves grouping the heterogeneity market into

smaller and similar segments, enabling a marketer to group individuals, organisations or

groups who shares one or more similar characteristic that cause them to have relatively

similar product needs and buying characteristic. Enabling the marketer to produce and

market their products specifically for a particular segment (Dibb, 2012). It is the process

of grouping customers within a market accordingly to similar needs, habits, attitudes that

can be addressed through marketing (Burk, 2003).

Customers in the heterogeneity market actively seek and pay a premium attention for

products and services that better meet their needs and wants. Although customers are

heterogeneity, they do cluster into specific groups whose member’s needs are more

14

similar to those of other customers in that group than they are to the needs of customers

in other groups. The cost of serving customers in a segment must be no more than what

they are willing to pay, although they may be higher than the costs of serving an average

customer (Gary, L. 1998).

Once marketers have identified their market segment, they must decide which market

they intend to enter. In the UK, marketers have realised that ethnic minority groups

cannot just be classified, since different class, age, immigration and thinking occurs.

Therefore, an understanding of the ethnic minority buying behaviour is essential (Journal

of Marketing Practice: Applied Marketing Science, 1995).

Marketers who know their target markets are more likely to design a marketing mix that

is suitable to their segment.

2.4. Advantages of Segmentation

1. Careful segmentation, and the understanding underlying it, can make it easier for

companies to identify and exploit different market opportunities.

2. Variety offers to consumers.

3. Gives marketers the choice of entering segments in which only limited number of

competitors are active (Burk, 2003).

4. Focus resources on most promising opportunities (Burk, 2003).

Market segmentation is customer orientated; it enables business to identify the wants

within a submarket and opt to whether it will be profitable or not to develop a marketing

mix that will target their selected segment (Etzel, 1997). It allows managers to do a better

15

job in tailoring a marketing program to their targeted segments, enabling them to make

effective use of their resources. It permits small firms with limited resources to compete

effectively in one or two market segments, depending on their targeted segment as

competition could be possible (Etzel, 1997).

Customer analysis

It facilitates a better understanding of customer’s needs, wants and other characteristics.

The direct focus on segmentation allows those personal, behavioural and situational

factors that distinguish customers in a specific segment to be considered. It allows

marketers to ask questions such as (how, why and what) do customers buy; enabling

markets to respond quickly to change (Dibb, 2012). The company concentrates on

providing a product that will suit their targeted segment by making use of an adequate

design and marketing mix, as they response effectively to the market change (Ostroff,

1994).

Competitor analysis

Intense competition exist in majority of markets, businesses need to have adequate

knowledge of the competition they face, as it is vital for business to know who their

competition is; their changes in trends and targets. Companies will be able to target the

appropriate segment since they would have a competitive advantage (Dibb, 2012). If

companies are unaware of their competitive environment they will risk targeting the

wrong segment (Ostroff, 1994).

16

Effective resource allocation

Allocating all material and personnel resources into a focused segment of customers it’s

an advantage for any organisation. Companies would make effective use of resources in

an effective manner (Dibb, 2012). Promotional campaigns can be designed and targeted

to the right media mix and business can make use of their sales people in order to obtain

detailed information (Ostroff, 1994).

Strategic marketing planning

Segmenting markets enables companies to develop a plan which gives particular

consideration to the needs and wants of customers in diverse segments. Its timescale can

be planned since some segments change faster than others (Dibb, 2012). It enables firms

to explore new entrants, like smaller markets (Ostroff, 1994).

2.5. Limitations of Segmentation

Increased cost

More finance would be spent on segmentation since a business would try to concentrate

on a specific segment rather than on mass market (Dibb, 2012).

Corporate commitment

The transition from mass marketing to segmentation could take months, it intakes the

management’s ability to implement strategies based on research. The information gained

17

will be of no value unless it is supported by the 4 P’s and is evaluated on a daily basis

(Ostroff, 1994).

2.6. Multicultural Marketing

Segmentation provides meaningful information based on expected segment but not on

individual purchasing behaviour (Ostroff, 1994) customers will have different and specific

buying behaviour and personal selling initiative. Numerous factors have been associated

with the spread of British ethnic minorities including the colonisation in Africa, India and

the Caribe (Nwankwo and Lindridge, 1998), at present they have increased their

purchasing power (Burton, 2002)

As UK becomes highly multicultural, “ethnicity occupies an important role on the

development of market strategies” (Burton, 2002). The growing rate of ethnic minorities

in the UK offer marketers the opportunity to operate in niche markets and develop

products and services (Dibb, 2013). Nevertheless, British firms have rarely developed

ethnic marketing strategies unlike US companies (Nwankwo and Lindridge, 1998). Burton,

2002 states that if a company is unable to market to multicultural Britain, it should

extremely evaluate its ability to market globally.

The term multicultural marketing refers to targeting and communicating to ethnic

minority groups in cultural diverse societies (Cui, 1997). Ethnic minority groups are not

only different from the conventional population but there is a high degree of diversity

within groups (Quester and Chong, 2001). The growing ethnic minority groups in the UK

provides enough reason for marketers to find ways to segment and target the ethnic

18

minority groups (Burton, 2002). It’s important for marketers to know the strengths of

ethnic minority marketing, because they can be classified into those with weak/strong ties

to their ethnic culture (Williams and Qualls, 1989). Consumption patterns have a lot to do

with the strengths of the ethical identity. For example, Hispanic husbands who have a

strong ethnic identity will have more influence in their purchase decision than their wives

whereas husband and wives with a weak ethnic identity will show the same level of

purchasing decision (Webster, 1994). Hispanics with strong identities will demonstrate a

high level of Spanish language consumption in media; those Spanish with a strong ethnic

culture had a positive attitude towards government and the weak ethnic identifiers

(Deshpande et al, 1989). In addition, Hispanic with strong ethnic identities were less

worried about the economic value and highly effected by the media than weak identifiers

(Donthu and Cherian, 1994). Equally, African’s with strong ethnic identifiers had a positive

attitude towards black models in advertisement for make-up than the weak identifiers

(Green, 1999).

2.6.1 Make-up brands targeted to the Ethnic Minority Group

IMAN, a make-up brand that has been designed for African, Asian and Latino women,

distributes their products across UK. However, there are only available in London and not

in Glasgow (IMAN, 2015). MAC targets similar ethnic groups to IMAN, however, Mac

products are available in Glasgow (MAC, 2015). Other products include; Blackup Paris,

which are only available in England and not in Glasgow and other rather expensive

cosmetic brands like Aida, Nars, CoverGirl Queen Collection which are available online to

purchase with USA as its home base (Juice, 2011).

19

Figure 4: Shows the different Afro-Caribbean shades (IMAN, 2015)

In spite of growth in ethnic minorities particularly Asians, the majority of cosmetic

companies have not done enough to address their beauty needs (Colour Cosmetic UK-

July, 2014); differences on skin type and colour means that mainstream cosmetics tend

not to be suitable for non-white people. Ethnic beauty products are a small niche sector

with the total market representing 2% of the total market for women’s skincare and make-

up. Therefore, specialist brands are hard to come by since the majority are established in

London.

Refer to Appendix 1 for images of African skin type make-up

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2.7. Acculturation

Acculturation has been considered to be an effective ethnic segmentation variable, it has

a reflective effect on the consumption patterns of ethnic minority groups and their

response to marketing strategies (Quester and Chong, 2001). There are two categories of

acculturation; Highly-acculturated which refers to those who have developed the host

nation’s way of living and the Low-acculturated which are those who have kept their

ethnic culture. For example, low-acculturated Hispanics would be more likely to respond

to print media and would hold a positive attitude to direct marketing (Korgaonkar et al,

2000).

Consumer researchers in Britain have ignored the diversity within ethnic minority groups.

Mainly the strengths of ethnic minority identity and acculturation of Africans living in the

UK. Burton (2000), mentions that UK financial institutions are not aware of the difference

within and between ethnic groups. Only 29 % of UK firms had made an attempt to target

ethnic minority groups, those firms perceived their investment to be effective while 42 %

perceive their strategies as not effective and the remaining 29 % did not target minority

ethnic groups (Fulford, 2001). Marketing companies have overlooked marketing to the

ethnic minority market, they believed that the population is small and not worth of

marketing to, senior managers hold little knowledge in regards to the ethnic minority in

UK. However, those organisations that ignore marketing to the ethnic minority have

demonstrated that they can rarely communicate effectively (Burton, 2002).

21

2.8. Segmentation Types

The author has considered Geographical, Psychometric, Behavioural and Demographic

segmentation.

2.8.1 Geographic segmentation

Involves a business dividing its market geographically. There are various ways in which a

firm can segment their market based on geography; such as by country, city, region, state

or internationally. Markets can also be divided into urban, suburban and rural or by

climate (Education Portal, 2015). Information in regards to the African population within

the UK would be provided below:

Population by Ethnic Group in April, 2001 (UK)

According to the most recent national census, taken in 2001, Black Africans comprise 0.8%

of the total UK population, and 10.5% of the total ethnic minority population. In Scotland

between mid-2012-2013, 28,200 people came to Scotland from overseas countries, and

26,100 left Scotland.

22

Figure 5; Shows the Net migration in Scotland adapted from [National Census, 2001.]

Summary report of the ethnic minority census 2001 shows that Africans were 0.10% of

the total population, Indians 0.30% and Chinese 0.32%. The size has been growing since

1991, the minority ethnic population increased by 62.3% between 1991 and 2001.

Scotland main cities, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Edinburgh are the most ethnically diverse.

Glasgow has 12% of ethnic minority population with; Asians 8%, African 2% followed by

Caribbean and other. Edinburgh and Aberdeen minority population was over 8%.

However, London has the largest population of ethnic groups within the UK; Black Africans

establish a large percentage of the population, residing in the capital Hackney (12%),

Lambeth (12%), Newham (13%) and Southwark (16%).

Refer to Appendix 2 for more detail on Population by Ethnic Group

23

African Migration

The African migration in the UK has been growing since the mid-20th century; countries

like Nigeria, Kenya, South African, Zimbabwe, Ghana and Somalia are among the top

common countries of birth of foreign-born UK residents (Migration Statistics Quarterly

Report, November 2014).

The diagram below illustrates the number of Africans living in Scotland, 2011. Glasgow

has 2.1% of African’s living there making a total of 12% of the highest minority group after

Pakistani with 3.8%.

24

Figure 6; Shows the percentage of Non-White population in 2001, Scotland [Adopted from

National Records Scotland, 2011]

According to Nationals Records of Scotland, 2011. The Scottish population made a total

of around 5.2 million, with Glasgow making 592, 820 of the population, Edinburgh

486,120, Aberdeen 217,120, Dundee 144,290, Inverness 56,660 and Stirling 89,850. The

diagram above shows that in 2011, the African population in Glasgow was higher that the

Indian and Chinese.

2.8.2 Psychographic segmentation

Psychometric tests finds out what makes consumers want to purchase a product since it

recognises that consumers are different individuals. It targets specifically, through

measurements of a person’s attitudes, behaviour, abilities, intelligence and aptitudes

(Dibb, 2012).

Marketing to Mature Women

Women aged 55 and over are expected to account for 16% of the female population by

2019; the equivalent of more than 10 million women. Trends in pension age and divorce

rate have made mature women a key consumer group for colour cosmetics, encouraging

beauty brands to use older women in their marketing and advertising (Fashionista, 2014).

Women age 60 are being described as “the new 20”, they presently feature in high fashion

and make-up magazines, mature women age 69, 64 and 68 are being used as the face of

brands like L’Oreal Paris, Mark Jacobs Beauty and Nars. The reason why companies make

25

use of mature women for their brands is due to how women age 55+ over, wants to be

communicated into a more personal level (Fashionista, 2014)

Figure 7: An Image Nars usage of mature women (Nars, 2015)

2.8.3 Behavioural segmentation

Behavioural segmentation divides the population based on their behaviour, in respect to

the way they respond, know or use a product. This method is used by marketing

management in order to study consumers in depth. It is done in such way, because there

are numerous reasons that will influence a customer’s decisions based on their affected

behaviour (Dibb, 2012)

26

2.8.4 Demographic segmentation

Marketers rely on demographic characteristics of segmentation because they are often

linked to customer’s needs and purchasing behaviour, they are also common and easily

identified consumer characteristics (Dibb, 2012). Furthermore, they show the difference

on consumer needs, wants, product consumption, and media usage (Burk, 2003).

Demographic segmentation is frequently used by marketers because it is related to

demand and it’s relatively easy to measure (Eztel, 1997). Marketers in Europe have not

been able to realise the impact that cultural diversity has on their marketing program

(Burton, 2000). Burton proposed a conceptual framework to integrate ethnic identity and

ethnicity into marketing theory and practice in the UK. The framework consists of:

1. Marketers understanding of ethnic identity and ethnicity identity.

2. Marketer can use ethnicity to figure their specific consumer’s needs.

3. Adopting a marketing mix and service to satisfy the ethnic minority needs

2.9 Ethnic Marketing

“Ethnic marketing is the process of designing product campaigns and advertising to appeal

to certain racially, ethnically or culturally-related consumer groups. It is a type of market

segmentation that attempts to target specific groups with more focused and appropriately

presented messages. This type of marketing can be used for positive or negative business

purposes.” (Wisegeek, 2003-2015).

Companies present products to consumers and encourage them to make a purchase. This

involves the use of adequate packaging and advertising in order to develop a product

27

image and inspire consumer behaviour based on the image. Business have the option to

treat all customers alike or they can opt to tailor the product image to the segment they

want to target as well as devising different messages for each individual segment.

Business can market their segment based on the different characteristics of such segment

which includes gender, age, or geographical location. A controversial segment which could

be effective for business includes ethnicity. Ethnic marketing tries to make the

advertisement and other marketing strategies suitable for the identified ethnic group. In

America African-American, Hispanics and Asian-American are the popular ethnic segment

(Wisegeek, 2003-2015).

Ethnic marketing attempts to use special tactics that are designed to attract the selected

segment’s attention. For example, a marketing campaign tailored for Hispanics might use

Spanish text or audio and might use Hispanics models instead of Caucasian models and

English text. This is done in order to tailor the message to the targeted segment, the

theory is to enable consumers to see themselves in the advertisement or something they

can relate to (Wisegeek, 2003-2015).

The characteristics of ethnic minority groups could be used in advertisements for a

positive or negative business purpose e.g. translating advertisement into another

language and including diversity in the message would show a sign of respect for the

target group.

Some business concentrates on the stereotypes in order to promote negative images or

behaviour from the targeted segment e.g. targeting ethnic groups for cigarettes and

alcohol advertising preserves a negative stereotype which shows that minority groups

28

spend their money buying unhealthy products. “Other companies take general

stereotypes and translate them into marketing material that can be perceived as offensive

when applied universally”. (Wisegeek, 2003-2015).

2.9.1 Reasons for Ethnic marketing

1. Companies seek for original ways to be profitable and build customer loyalty due to

the increase of competitive pressure in the majority of industries.

2. Ethnic marketing signifies an opportunity to differentiate a company’s offering in the

saturated market place and to develop new products (Think Ethnic, 2012).

Marketers in general are continuously thinking of ways to be relevant and to keep up with

the increase rate rise of communication via online and offline. However, when it comes

to Multicultural Marketing, the majority of marketers are unable to personalise their

communication to the UK diverse audience.

In order for segmentation to work, the message has to be tailored to the distinct audience

in order for the message to be appealing; marketers could base it on ethnic background

or by region e.g. Muslims are offered a Ramadan package to coincide with the “Holly

month” of fasting purchasing season, markets do this to increase sales.

Brands like Nike and Pepsi engage with ethnic influences with the help of their

Online/Offline presence and product endorsement, they can effectively with ethnic

influencers. Marketers fall short of focusing on over simplicity; they should be able to use

an ethnic specific multicultural approach (Think Ethnic, 2014).

29

2.9.2 African Hair Market

Boots supplies one product line with natural ingredients which

could possibly be suitable for the African hair type. Herbal

Essence currently uses Nichole Scherzinger a multitalented

artist as the Face of their brand.

H & E product range usually contains Argon oil, which is best

suited for Afro-Caribbean hair. However, not all of their products are suited for Afro-

Caribbean hair type as some contain sulphate. Nevertheless, Superdrug on the other hand

has been able to supply products Online which are best suited for the Afro-Caribbean hair.

Though, the lack of

marketing done to the African segment in Glasgow seemed to be poor. Superdrug’s Afro-

Hair care products are not available In-store but in the company’s website (Superdrug,

2015). The company provides a wide range of products ranging from: Daily Care &

Maintenance, Shampoo & Conditioners, Relaxer Kits, Styling & Finishing, Colorants and

Hair Oils and Treatments.

Primark began to stock Moroccan Argon oil at a price of £2.50 for a bottle of 18ml (Share

crown, 2013), Superdrug provides the same oil for a price of £3.99 for a bottle at a higher

30

quantity of 200ml (Superdrug, 2015). However, just like Superdrug there’s no evidence of

Primark’s use of Online or In-store advertisement.

Figure 8; Shows an image of Argon Oil

2.9.3 Importance of Afro-Caribbean Hair

As mentioned in the introduction section under Hair, Sulphate is a powerful degreaser

which might remain in the hair, and removes all the dirt from the hair and scalp as well as

the natural oils, making hair drier. Such a minor chemical can have serious bad side effects

an examples would be provided below;

A hair stylist added relaxer to a deep conditioning treatment to an African women’s hair

(BGLH, 2011). The deceptive treatment made the women lose her hair and take legal

action against the Salon.

Another case is of a white stylist refusing to do a black client’s natural hair because she

lacked the experience; the article mentioned that all stylists should have been given all

31

the teaching necessary in order to make every customer comfortable. Apologies were

written to the customers;

“We apologize to Dr. Thompson for her experience in our salon. At TGF, we are committed

to creating a welcoming environment for all of our guests. We will provide additional

training for our staff at this location and hope that she will consider giving us another

opportunity, which will be complimentary” (BGLH STAFF, 2014).

The PH balance in Afro-hair products are very important, the closer it is to 4.5 or 5.5 the

better are the chances for the cuticle to remain close and for an increase on softness to

be seen (BGHL, 204).

Dr. Susan Taylor, a Harvard trained dermatologist stated that hair loss is epidemic among

African-American women of all ages “I probably see 20 women a week with hair loss”.

Afro-Textured hair is drier, has more breakage and some hairstyles could stress the scalp

(Thegrio, 2012).

Refer to Appendix 3 for more Quotes from African women’s hair experience

2.9.4 Background on African Hair History

In the 15th century in Africa, hairstyles indicated a person’s status within the community.

For African women, hair is not just something to play with; it is something that is loaded

with messages. According to Rooks (1996) “Its style could lead to acceptance or rejection

from certain groups and social classes, and its styling could provide the possibility of a

career”.

32

In the 18th century Louisiana (USA) women of colour were banned to wear their Afro-hair

on public due to white women feeling jealous of the attention black women received from

white men, a Law was passed on 1789 which stated that Black women had to wear a cloth

to cover their hair (BGLH, 2014).

The rules were created to interfere with the

growing influence of the free black population and keep their social status in order. The

rule name was “Tignon Laws” which referred to headdress (BGLH, 2014).

33

2.9.5 Afro-Caribbean Hair Types

This is fine tightly kinky, curled hair which is fragile and prone

to breakage. There are different categories but this is 4sub, and has Type 4a, 4b & 4c. The

majority of African women will fall into those categories

Figure 9; Shows the different Afro-Caribbean hair

Refer to Appendix 4 for further information on Afro-Hair types

2.10 Race and Ethnic variables

Marketers treat ethnicity segmentation different in different parts of the world. In USA,

ethnic is openly used to segment markets for goods and services; the growing Hispanic

population in the USA means that this segment is targeted by numerous companies (Dibb,

2012). Companies believe that if advertisement is done in Spanish their product will sell

due to the perception they have of those customers being loyal and thinking that they

would prefer Spanish media. However, advertisers and researchers disagree with such

assumptions, since they are unsure if it is adequate to advertise to Hispanic speaking

ethnic group in Spanish.

34

In the UK, the ethnic minority population increased from 3.9% in 1980 to 7.4% in 2001; it

is now estimated at 11 per cent. Nowadays, companies are looking for ways to connect

with this segment, (Dibb, 2012). Marketers must avoid stereotyping customers when

using race and nationality. Business should look at customer’s behaviour and attitudes,

which would enable them to see what motivates customers to purchase a product. (Buck,

2003). Effective representation would be a key element for the ethnic minority cultures.

In developed countries, ethnic minority groups have a larger buying power. In the UK,

there are 7th ethnic minority groups according to Labour Force Survey published in 2003

(Marketing Pocker Book, 2004).

Russell and Russell (2010) discovered that when an ethic group identity is strong, people

will put more emphasis on activities which will benefit their group e.g. people from an

African background will patronise a business that they believe will respond to their social

needs and wants. Palumbo and Teich (2004) suggest that minority and ethnic group

segmentation must consider the impact of acculturation since the amount of time an

individual spends in the society will impact their outlook. Parallel strategies should be

developed for targeting both acculturated ethnic groups and those not yet acculturated

(West, 2010).

35

Figure 10 - Population by Ethnic Origin, BME only, 2001

Marketers are reluctant to develop marketing programmes for specific groups in the UK,

even when the ethnic minority population grows year by year; they fear that promoting

and advertising for the ethnic segment would bring them accusations of ethnic

stereotyping and racism (Dibb, 2001).

2.11 Why is ethnic segmentation important?

Ethnic segmentation is useful to do, in order to target the market for specific products.

Marketers could find challenging to segment the market based on ethnicity, since a firm

has to understand an ethnic’s group buying behaviour and motivation. Studies have been

carried out by the Bureau of Labor Statistics and private research firms which shows the

36

difference between races e.g. Blacks and Whites in America differ in their income levels

as well as on their level of education, living area and product categories. Comparisons

were made between the Whites and Blacks spending behaviour; results showed that

Blacks spent a greater proportion of their income on purchasing meat, poultry, personal

care products and cleaning products and less on entertainment, medical services and

alcoholic beverages (Eztel, 1997). Ethnic markets are not homogeneous units, just like any

other population segment consisting of 20 to 30 million people.

Firms who produce skin colour products acknowledge ethnic segments e.g. Africans or

Hispanics. They acknowledge the sub-groups which are based on income, geo-graphical

location and life-cycle stage. Those specialised firms understand that skin colour is a major

factor when it comes to purchasing habits e.g. Estee Lauder Cosmetics Company has 115

different make-up foundation shades for black women (Eztel, 1997). America represents

a great diversity of people with different ethnic backgrounds, religious preference and

countries of national origin. This difference affects the way in which they purchase

products. In 1990s, projections showed that minorities will grow by 80% in the future.

Research showed that Hispanics had a high purchasing concentration on grocery stores,

which can in turn increase a brand’s market share.

Spanish advertisement is common in different states in America like Los Angeles and

Miami. Majority of products that Spanish ethnic purchased, had a link to their hometown

e.g. Bunuelitos. Research indicates that the key is to be able to market the subculture

segment without being stereotypical which could easily offend the targeted market

(Ostroff, 1994).

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2.12 Race-Relation cycles

Robert E. Park (1950) suggests that there is no general sociological theory explanation for

the existence of ethnic segmentation aside from the concept of race-relation cycles. An

approach that treats ethnic stratification as a consequence of difference in power. Park’s

model consists of four steps: contact, competition, accommodation and assimilation. A

description of the model is provided below;

Race relation cycles directs to immigration, at this stage there is peaceful contact between

groups caused by curiosity. As the level of immigrants increases and they deepen their

search for a satisfying way of life, competition increases and conflict arises within each

group due to the level of immigration. However, when the level of immigration declines

the resources for the minority ethnic group are closed due to the understanding of the

abandonment of one-side demand in order to accommodate all groups.

A mutual understanding relation then arises as a result of usually the group with less

power withdrawing into particular niches of occupation; they separate themselves and do

not longer fight for power as they have to accept low level positions in the stratification

system. In the accommodation phase, a division between ethnic lines and occupation

arises due to the previous phase of conflict, and it becomes a circle. Later on, this structure

becomes acceptable since it is not questioned and it becomes a legitimate order without

direct discrimination.

The information collected has helped for the education and in-depth understanding of the

issues with Ethnic and Market Segmentation. However, the author noticed that Ostroff

38

(1994), provided valid information in regards to the issues that companies face with ethnic

segmentation, but lacked on providing information in regards to the African segment in

America or UK. The author recognises this as a gap on Ostroff research, due to the

examples being effective only for the Hispanic ethnic.

The author believes that the African segmentation was neglected by Ostroff (1994), as the

African segmentation it’s to believe to be as high as Hispanics.

In other hand, Eztel (1997) was successful with its extensive comparison of White and the

Black population in America, it enables the reader to understand the difference between

their expending patterns. Robert E.Park (1950) further explores the concept of ethnic

segmentation and its relation with immigration. It enables the author to have a further

deeper understanding of the different meaning of immigration.

39

Chapter 3: Methodology

This chapter presents the research methodology, approach and design that was be carried

out by the researcher. The author made use of Online Surveys, Telephone Interviews, and

Face-to-Face interviews in order to obtain detailed information.

In this section, inductive and deductive philosophical approaches will be explained and a

justification towards the research methods used will be provided which includes; Mixed

methods, questionnaires and interviews.

3.1 Research Approach

“Methodology is the study of methods and it raises all sorts of philosophical questions

about what it is possible for researchers to know and how valid their claims to knowledge

might be.” (Fisher, 04).

Inductive approach allows for small samples of subjects to be carried on, it is concerned

with the situation in which such events takes place unlike deduction approach.

Researchers who use this approach are more likely to use a qualitative approach as well

as using a variety of methods to gather data in order to establish different views of

phenomena (Easterby-Smith et al. 2008). The choices that researchers take for their

research proposal are important due to the following:

It allows the researcher to take a more informed decision in regards to research

design.

It helps the researcher to think appropriate research strategies and choices.

40

An understanding of the research approaches enables the researcher to adapt their

design to any constraints that might arise (Easterby-Smith et al. 2008).

The difference between deductive and inductive approaches were summarised as follow;

deduction highlights scientific principles which moves from theory to data; data is

collected in a quantitative form. There’s a constant need to explain the relationship

between two variables as well as the application of control to ensure data collected is

valid. A sizable sample is needed in order to generalise the conclusions when carrying out

the research. Inductive approach focuses on gaining an understanding of the meanings

humans attach to events and by doing this, qualitative data is collected; it allows for a

flexible structure to be carried out as changes could occur. A closer understanding of the

research context is gained and there is less concerns with the need of generalising

(Saunders at al, 2009).

Inductive approach involves collecting data and developing a theory as a result of the

information examined, whereas deductive approach involves developing a theory as well

as a hypothesis to test the theory (Saunders et al, 2009). For the purpose of this research

inductive approach will be applied as the author recognised that a small sample of women

would be surveyed and theory could be developed from research.

3.2 Research Philosophy

Exploratory studies are used to find out “what’s happening at present; to seek new insight;

to ask question and to assess phenomena in a new light” (Saunders et al, 2009). The author

recognised exploratory philosophy as suitable for the research carried out as there was a

41

need to understand how African women felt about the African hair care market in

Glasgow and how Salons try to fit those needs.

There are three principal ways of conducting exploratory research:

1. Through literature

2. Interviewing specialists in the subject

3. Conducting focus groups interview

The author carried out an exploratory research by interviewing African customers and

gaining insight information in regards to the challenges they face. The managers of an

African and Non-African Salon were interviewed in order to find out if they trained their

hairstylist into the Natural Hair products and African hair care. The author tried to discover

how did African women in the West End of Glasgow felt with the lack of advertisement

done towards the Afro-Caribbean hair market and how Department Stores and Salons

tried to meet their needs.

According to (Saunders et al, 2009) exploratory studies allows for flexibility of questions.

New collection of data is part of this study and due to its nature, it could change the

direction of the research.

3.3 Research Methods

Research methods are used since it’s “a particular way of studying something in order to

discover new information about it or understand it better” (Cambridge University, 2015).

42

3.3.1 Sampling

“Sampling techniques provides a range of methods that enable you to reduce the amount

of data you need to collect considering only data from a sub-group rather than all possible

cases or elements is also less costly in regards to time effort and finance” (Saunders et al,

2009).

The author sampled 21 African women residing at the West side of Glasgow. The reason

why they were selected was due to convenience as the majority of African women

purchased their hair products at Great Western Road, Maryhill and City centre. 1 African

Salon and 1 Non-African Salon at Glasgow City centre were selected as the majority of

African women often went to a hair Salon to get their hair done and City centre seemed

appropriate for the researcher purpose. The author was able to collect vital information

which helped to answer the research question.

The advantages of this method are the quickness and the availability with which

information can be collected, the disadvantages of this method is that information

collected will not representative of the entire population since the researcher is focusing

on African women who reside at the West part of Glasgow (Saunders et al, 2009).

Refer to Appendix 5 for more information about Sources of Literature Review

Saunders et al (2009) highlights the three main sources of Literature

The level of detail and authority of publications tends to decline as we move from primary

to tertiary sources. Primary literature is often available online which makes it easier for

43

people to access information, since it has not been through the referencing process; “Is

collected for the purpose at hand” (Kotler et al, 1999). Secondary sources are authoritative

like journals, newspapers which are aimed to a wider audience. It has the advantages of

being less costly and less time consuming when being compared to primary sources.

Tertiary sources are designed to find both primary and secondary information such as

indexes (Saunders et al, 2012).

3.3.2 Qualitative and Quantitative Research Methods

Research is often categorised as either quantitative or qualitative but both techniques

could be used. The author made us of mixed methods to draw conclusions from data

analysed from the Online, Telephone and Face to Face interviews that were carried out.

Tashakkori & Teddlie (2003), suggest that by combining both quantitative and qualitative

research methods, the researcher will be able to produce great results from the research.

Qualitative

This approach typically involves non-numerical data collected by techniques such as

interviews and analysis using a variety of non-statistical methods. Qualitative information

will allow the researcher to obtained detailed information as well as flexibility of asking

specific questions, since people’s attitudes and concerns will be shown in regards to the

research objectives. In-depth interviews, focus groups and face to face interviews were

considered since it will provide the researcher with up to date information. The researcher

has control on keeping the interview in order and encouraging participants to answer

questions. Qualitative data allows theory to be drawn from the findings; it includes both

deductive and inductive approaches.

44

Relationships between categories can be identified as well as categorising the responses

from participants (Saunders et al, 2009). The disadvantage of qualitative data is that

usually fewer people are studied, it is time consuming to gather information. Due to this

aspect, the author decided to use a small sample. Generalisation is less effective since

fewer people are being studied and it cannot be factual in regards to the population as

exact numbers will be reported. It is also difficult to make systematic comparisons as

participants could give different responses (Learn higher, 2008).

Quantitative

This type of data is always raw, until the information gained is processed and analysed.

Statistics, graphs and charts allows data to be described, explored and presented, it allows

for the studying of the relationships and trends of the data collected. Data could range

from prices, frequency of occurrence, test scores or rental costs.

In order for information to be useful, data has to be correctly analysed and interpreted,

relationships could be drawn due to comparisons (Saunders et al, 2009). The disadvantage

of quantitative data is that false representations could be drawn, it could represent the

reflection of the researcher instead of participants via use of standardised questions. The

answers that participants provide might not reflect how they feel at present towards a

subject, results are limited and it could be less effective to provide detailed information

since it’s collected on a numerical format (Learn higher, 2008).

The author made use of Quantitative and Qualitative research on the Online Survey, it was

thought that by using this methods further information and new knowledge could be

45

discovered from online participants. The researcher made use of Open questions to allow

respondents to answer questions with more depth. Online Survey allows for numerical

and in-depth information to be analysed which will enable the researcher to have a better

understanding of the issues being faced by African women’s hair market in Glasgow. The

author considered sending e-mails to the African segment in the West End of Glasgow.

However, the researcher thought that it was no realistic since there was not about time

left to gather participant’s emails.

The researcher thought of using Face-to-Face interviews after unsuccessful attempts of

trying to involve African Salons and Non-African Salons into an Online Survey and

Telephone Interview. Therefore, the author opted to interview Salons Face-to-Face since

it was discovered that important and vital information would be collected within 10

minutes. Mature African women had difficulty on assessing the Online Survey due to work

schedule and of no knowledge of answer questions in Survey Money, which is the survey

that the author used. Therefore, the author decided that it was best to carry out Telephone

Interviews to the older segment, a time schedule was created in order to ensure that

detailed information was collected.

Qualitative information was used to contact participants via Face-to-Face and Telephone

interview, this method was chosen due to the nature of the research and it benefited the

researcher since relationships were built and participants provided vital information for

the purpose of the research. The author intended for the Telephone and Face-to-Face

interviews to take a period of 3 to 4 days.

46

3.3.4 Questionnaires

According to (Saunders et al, 2009). Diverse questions types may be used within an

interview. One section may ask common set of factual questions, while in another a

qualitative approach may be used to explore responses.

The researcher will therefore use mixed method approach to validate findings.

3.3.5 Semi-structured interviews

Semi-structured interviews allow for the researcher to cover their theme or questions

before the interview takes place. This method allows the researcher to change questions

as the interview goes along. Therefore, the number of questions asked to participants

might vary and additional questions might be included in order to explore the research

question, thus enabling for audio recorders and note taking due to the nature of the

conversation (Saunders et al, 2009).

The advantages of semi-structure interviews is that the information gathered will be

relevant to the topic, the participants are targeted specifically, the interview will be

structured in a way to allow the interviewer to compare results, it allows for general

opinions or views to be explore freely and could be used for sensitive topics.

The disadvantages of this technique, is that the researcher has to be skilled into carrying

out interviews, enough people have to be interviewed in order to make general

comparisons, questions have to be planned carefully so that it does not seem leading and

it can be time consuming as well as resource intensive. The researcher has to ensure

47

confidentiality of the information collected as well as skills to be able to analyse data

collected (Scot NHS).

It is the author’s purpose is to be able to question participants with various questions in

regards to the Hair beauty care of African women and the issues they face. The author

recognised that certain questions might have to be removed in order to adjust the

questions to the “conversation” with individuals. The author intended for the interviews

to last between 4 to 5 days.

3.3.6 In-depth interviews

In-depth interviews are used by researchers in order to discover information from

participants. This methods does not require the researcher to have a set of questions prior

to the interview. Nevertheless, the researcher must have a clear idea of the aspects they

intend to cover. (Saunders et al, 2009).

Advantages of this method involves the in-depth information that participants provide

towards their values, opinions and attitudes as well as adjustment of questions.

Disadvantages of this method is that only a small number of interviews can be done, since

its time consuming and findings could be different from one another. Also results could

not be representative from a particular population due to the use of a small sample

(University of Portsmouth, 2010).

The author intended to use in-depth interviews for African and Non-African hair Salons.

The author was aware that Salons tend to be busy and it was important to make use of

the time given by the manager from selected stores. A more conversational tone was

48

used, in order to obtain detailed information in regards to Hair Salon’s attitudes towards

African hair care products.

3.3.7 Telephone Interview

Telephone interviews offer advantages for the researchers, because it allows for verbal

contact with the selected sample to take place.

Advantages of this method includes the access, speed and lower cost; it enables the

researcher to contact participants from afar once a level of trust has been established

(Saunders et al, 2009). The author is able to explore participant’s answers due to the non-

standardised method.

Disadvantages of this method is that participants might not be willing to engage as much

or refuse to take part. The researcher is unable to see participant’s facial expressions, and

time is limited. Therefore, note taking and timing are essential (Saunders et al, 2009).

The author made Telephone calls to 4 participants who agreed to be part of the sample.

This method was used on mature African women who reside at the West End of Glasgow

due to their work schedule convenience. The author intended for this method to take up

to a day in order to gather accurate information. However, time schedules were allocated

during participant’s break times at work.

49

3.3.8 Online Survey

Morgan and Symon (2004) used the term electronic interviews to refer to the interviews

being held in real time through the use of the internet (Saunders et al, 2009).

Online interviews provide a wide range of advantages for the researcher undertaking this

method. It allows for the sample of people or population in a geographical area to take

part in the process. The software automatically records, as the questions are answered

which results to less cost, time and accuracy is less concerning, as results can be analysed

from the interviewer desktop.

Disadvantages of this method is that ethical issues have to be considered. Web

conferencing allows for an Offline interview to take place, but the issues of using a Web

cam is that when carrying out a group or one-to-one interviews, participants might not

have the software required or their desktop might not be compatible with the program.

The author used Online Surveys for the young African women residing at the West End of

Glasgow. The researcher made use of Survey Monkey in order to make the survey easy to

access as the targeted segments all had accessibility and knowledge of Survey Monkey.

The researcher tried to target the mature African women with the use of Online Surveys.

However, not a lot of responses from that segment were collected. Therefore, the author

opted to use Telephone Interview for that segment since it was convenient.

50

The author estimated for the Online Survey to take up to 2 to 3 days in order to gather

accurate information.

3.3.9 Open question

Open questions enables respondents to reply with more depth and lengthier answers

unlike close questions, which often involves a “yes” or “no” only type of answer.

The advantages of this method is that there are no limits to participant’s answers, it allows

for new findings to be discovered and detailed information to be obtained from

participants. Disadvantage of open questions is that answers from participants might be

irrelevant and it could be a waste of time to undertake analysis and comparison (Saunders

et al, 2009).

The author decided to use Open questions rather than Closed questions since it is

important to discover new and relevant information that was not thought of or found on

the literature review. Open questions were use in the Online Survey, Telephone and Face-

to-Face interview.

3.4 Limitations

3.4.1 Focus Groups

Focus interviews refer to the way a researcher is able to direct the way in which an

interview will be carried out.

This method allows participants to interact and discuss with one another, it usually

involves 10 or fewer individuals consisting of volunteers. Participants might be

51

encouraged to try a product or to react to a particular picture, film, or show that they have

just viewed; all the participants are observed and studied on focus groups. However,

participants are carefully selected since they will need to have a common ground in

relation to the researcher’s topic (Saunders et al, 2009).

The advantages of this method is that reactions from participants can be easily measured,

the disadvantages includes the lack of in-depth information provided by individuals since

they might not express their honest opinions or they might not have time to do so (Small

business, 2015).

The author took into consideration the use of focus groups. However, the author did not

have enough time or finance to undertake this method. Also participants did not want

their names to be included or known in the interview process, which is the reason why

focus groups were avoided.

3.4.2 Reflections

The researcher decided to gain in-depth information from Online Survey, Telephone and

Face- to-Face interviews which enable the researcher to obtain participants views and

opinions as well as of new knowledge. The author considered the constraints of targeting

mature working African women by the use of Online Survey. It was noticed that Mature

African women were not as online user friend as the young African women residing at the

West End of Glasgow.

The researcher intended to gain primary information by the use of Semi-structured and

In-depth interviews. The author was successful in doing so since, a wide range of new

information was gained by participants and as this method allowed for a natural

52

conversational tone to arise as well as of change of questions, it enables the author to

change the questions accordingly to the way in which the flow of communication turned;

The researcher did keep the focus in the topic and the participants followed.

The Online Survey carried out by the researcher worked effectively for the young African

women. The young women were between the ages of 18 to 23, the majority of those

women were students.

The researcher thought that mature African women would have had an idea or time to

answer the Online Survey, but it proved the researcher wrong. Therefore, the author

opted for Telephone interviews for this segment which worked effectively, women were

between the ages of 30 to 40+.

The author purpose was to survey 2 different African and Non-African Salons, this was

unsuccessful due to Managers being absent from their work place. Therefore only 1

African and Non-African Salons were able to be interviewed by the use of Face-to-Face

interview.

53

Chapter 4: Findings

This chapter presents the findings of the primary research carried by the author. Two

different Online Surveys were carried out, in order to obtain detailed information from

participants. Young and Matured African Women residing at the West side of Glasgow

undertook the interviews. In the first online survey, basic information in regards to African

women’s attitudes are explored and in the second online survey, primary information is

provided in regards to their opinion towards the lack of marketing done to the growing

African Hair market in Glasgow.

This is followed by the 4 Telephone interviews carried out by the researcher, participants

would be described as Participants A, B, and C, D. In the first Online Survey a total of 16

responses were collected from both young and matured African women. On the second

online survey 13 responses were collected from African women residing at the West side

of Glasgow.

As mentioned earlier only 1 African and Non-African Salons were able to be interviewed

due to the nature of the Manager’s schedule. Detailed information will be provided in

regards to Manager’s views of the African hair market.

54

4.1 Findings from Online Survey

Q1. Attitudes towards African Hair and Make-up products in Glasgow

What is your age?

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

18 to 21 22 to 25 26 to 29 30 to 33 34 to 38 39 to 43 44 to 50

Nu

mb

er

of

Re

spo

nd

en

ts

Age Range

55

What is your current occupations?

Are the Hair & Make up products that you purchase available in Glasgow?

62.50 % purchased their hair products in Glasgow, 18.75% did not purchase their products

in Glasgow and 18.75 % has no idea if the products were available in Glasgow.

Do you go to Non-African Salons to style your hair?

Student , 75%

Unemployed, 6.25%

Employed , 18.75%

RESPONDENTS

56

Which Make-up brand do you use?

The highest Make-up brand was Mac with 8 participants using the product, followed by

Mary K with 3 participants, Bobby Brown with 2, L’Oreal with 2, MUA with 2, Clinique with

2, L.A Colours with 2 participants. Make-up brands that were not as included: Sleek,

Chanel, Maybelline, Rimmel, YSL, Smashbox, Opal, Revlon, Lancôme and Collection.

Do you purchase African hair beauty products Online?

33.60% of respondents answered YES and 62.50 % answered NO.

What African hair brands do you use?

The most popular hair brand from 5 out of 12 respondents was Expressions hair brand,

whereas the rest of participants used Olive Oil, Dark and Lovely, Eco styler African pride,

ORS, Cantu, Hollywood beauty and Roots.

Do you go to African hair Salons to style your Hair?

43.75% of respondents answered YES 56.25% answered NO

YES NO I DON'T KNOW

Participants 62.50% 18.75% 18.75%

0.0%

10.0%

20.0%

30.0%

40.0%

50.0%

60.0%

70.0%

Participants

57

Do they Shampoo and condition your hair with sulphate free products?

12.50 % of respondents answered YES and 87.50% answered NO.

What style do you currently have?

56.25% of respondents answered natural protective style, 31.25% answered wigs, weave

style and 12.50% had a relaxed hair style.

Q2. Marketing to Africa women’s hair

Do you trust hairdressers to style your Hair?

Responses:

4 out of 13 participants answered YES and the rest of participants had mixed feeling or they

explained why they would trust a hairstylist.

“I only trust one hairdresser as she understands my hair and she knows how to manage

it. Other Hair Salons do not pay attention to what I'm saying which is the reason why I

prefer the Nigerian stylist that I go to in Queens Margaret drive”

“I only trust one hairdresser, because she's the only one who can get my hair done on

time and takes very well care of my hair. I wouldn't go to other hairdressers as I had bad

experiences from a Glasgow African Salon due to negligence from the hairstylist. “

If the prices for African hair styles were to decrease would you consider going to a Hair

Salon?

Responses:

58

6 out of 13 respondents answered YES, and the rest of the participants made comments

as to why they would go.

“I presently go to a Hair Salon it will be better if the price decreased since I would have to

pay less. But I wouldn't go to other Hair Salons if they change their price.”

“Yes, I will continue to stick to the one I go to now for the same hairstylist. Since she does

my hair very well”

“Yes definitely African Hair Salon, if the prices decreased as people in Glasgow are charging

ridiculous prices for something my girl or cousins can do for me at home free”

Would you consider going to an African Saloon or a “normal Salon”?

All respondents answered that they would prefer to go an African Salon. One responded

provided a mixed feedback and other respondents provided explanations.

“Normal Salons do not have the experience and understanding of African Hair care. I took

my son to a normal Salon to wash his hair and they ended up straighten his hair when it

was not what I asked for.”

“African Salon, because they know my hair style. I took my son to get his hair done on a

normal Salon. He has afro hair and they ended up straight instead of as it was before which

was curly”

Have you ever relaxed your hair in a Salon?

59

Did you have any side effects, if so which side effects did you have?

7 out of 13 respondents did not have any side effect while relaxing their hair. However

the rest of the respondents had the following side effects;

“My scalp was burned because I forgot to add Vaseline to my scalp as well as following

the instructions.”

“Burn, irritation it was very painful. In my own because I kept it own for too long and I did

not use Vaseline. African Salon, burned my hair with a straighter. They told me I shouldn't

had moved. In Glasgow. She was not pain attention”

Have you ever been rejected from a hair Salon because they didn’t have any expertise on

your hair type? State why?

YES NO

Respondents 61.54% 38.46%

0.0%

10.0%

20.0%

30.0%

40.0%

50.0%

60.0%

70.0%

Respondents

60

Respondents did not receive any rejection from any of the Salons.

If companies in Glasgow started to provide more natural hair products in Department

stores at a cheaper rate like Boots, Superdrug. Would you consider purchasing a hair

product in their store?

All respondents answered YES and some gave explanations:

“Yes!!! I am all about 'Natural' Hair & Skin Ingredients but I think you should sell them

yourself in your own salon & make the money from it. Don’t advertise or see you’ll

products through these big companies. Personal opinion”

“I would go to Superdrug’s, because they have cheaper Olive oil products and I also think

that they need to increase their marketing awareness. Since not a lot of people knows

about it unlike 10 to 20 years ago in Glasgow where obviously there was not a lot of African

people. But companies should take advantage of it now and start to promote it well”

“I presently purchase olive oil products in Superdrug since it's cheaper than in an African

store. However, I would probably buy more product in Department stores”

Do you think there in enough advertisement done in Glasgow through TV, magazines,

social media towards the African segment and African Hair products?

All respondents answered that there are not enough advertisement done;

“No! Not at all. African hair is hardly acknowledged at all in Glasgow. It is only ever

acknowledged by the few African-Caribbean hair salons”

“No. but everything has to do with demand. If people want then these companies will

have no choice but to direct to a new audience.”

61

Refer to Appendix 6 for full responses

4.1.1. Telephone Interview

The researcher interviewed 4 participants on a phone interview and Open conversation

with in-depth/semi structure was developed. Below there are examples of the questions

asked to participants:

What is your Age?

What is your current Occupation?

Are the Hair and Make-up products that you purchase available in Glasgow?

Do you go to Caucasian Salons to style your Hair?

Do you purchase African Hair products Online?

What Hair brands do you use?

Do you go to African Salons to style your Hair?

What Hair style do you currently have?

Do you trust Hairdressers to style your Hair?

Would you consider going to a Caucasian Hair Salon or an African Salon?

Have you ever relaxed your Hair in a Salon or at Home?

Where do you purchase your Hair products?

Have you ever felt uncomfortable entering a Caucasian Salon?

Do you think there is enough marketing done towards the African Hair segment in

Glasgow?

Would you consider purchasing your Hair products in Department stores if their

offered them?

62

Participant A

“I do not buy products online, but I use Brazilian hair. I do purchase my products in

Glasgow stores at Great western road because is cheaper. No, I have not relaxed my hair

on a Salon because I use a wig. I do not use any creams but I use palm oil. “

“I prefer African hair salons, because they understand our hair products unlike Caucasian

Salons. I see white people doing their Hair on African Salons because African people know

it better. Yes, I would consider going to Department stores since it’s more local and they

are available around my area.”

Participant B

“Yes I only trust a specific Hair dresser, one who comes to my house. In an African Salon

they were not listening to me. I don’t trust other hairstylist, I have relaxed my hair on a

salon- I have not had any bad side I do buy products online- from America or London. In

Glasgow I have not been rejected from a hair Salon.

Participant C

“I use a weave- no relaxed hair in a year. The first time I relaxed my hair was in Ghana and

I end up with sores on my scalp. I used Dark and Lovely hair products which I purchased

in Boots, I think its Sulphate free. Through the relaxer problem I had in Ghana I became

aware of products containing Sulphate being bad for African’s hair”

“An independent lady does my hair, I don’t do Salons because they charge the use of the

premises and Savoy centre charges £60 for a hairstyle and they don’t do any

advertisement. I wouldn’t go to a Caucasian Salon, because it will be expensive- if they

63

were to decrease their price it will be interesting to do my hair if they know how to do

African hair.

Participant D

“I’m a natural hair, have been transitioning for the past year. As a protective style I use

African kinky-pick and drop for work or placement to look professional. However, I do

wear a wig when going out. I relaxed my hair a long time ago but I don’t do it anymore

because my scalp get burns at times. “

“I relaxed my hair at the African Salon and on my own, I use Herbal and Essence when

washing my hair since it’s a natural leave in conditioner. I use Curls unleash Organic

products and I purchase them at the African Shops-Savoy Centre- from Great Western

Road. “

Refer to Appendix 7 for full responses

4.1.2 Surveys for African and Non-African Salons

The researcher decided to Interview 2 Salons by the use of a recorder, as it was thought

to be the quickest way to gain responses from participants as well as of note taking.

African Salon Survey

Salon 1

The researcher asked the Manager in regards to the Hair products they provided and if

they also have products that contain natural products since there is a need for Sulphate

free products for the Afro-Caribbean hair market:

64

“The Salon does provide Hair beauty products such as extensions and weaves. We also do

cornrows and do treat Natural hair African women’s hair. However, the products that we

have are limited since the majority of our customer’s buy products from the Shops across,

since they have an extensive range. From there the customer can come back with their

product of their choice and we can apply it to their hair”

The researcher questioned the manager in regards to the relaxed hair products they used

for the African’s women scalp:

“We do have two relaxers that we use, but we do not know or we are not aware that they

are Sulphate free. We have Olive Oil and Pink for relaxing hair. The majority of times we

do apply Vaseline to the women’s hair since it can burn the women scalp at times”

The researcher asked the manager if she was aware of how long did the relaxer had to

stay in the hair:

“We leave the relaxer in the Hair as long as possible since the longer we leave it the best

results we would have for the customer. Also we do Hair Style to all ethnic’s not only

African women as we have noticed the increase of Caucasian customer’s coming into our

store”

Refer to Appendix 8 for further information

65

Non-African Salons Survey

Salon 1

The researcher asked the Manager in regards to the Hair products they provide and if they

also have products that contain natural products since there is a need for Sulphate free

products:

“We have products that are of High end market and well known by our customers. The

products we used are used for mainly; to hold customer’s hair, to ensure that there is

brightness and avoid the hair being stock or stiff. The majority of our customers are

Caucasian.

The researcher asked the Manager if they have trained their Hairstylist in Afro-Caribbean

hair:

“We have not had the need to train our staff into Afro-Caribbean hair since where we are

situated as well as the type of customers we markets, it’s more directly to the Caucasian

market. Since as mentioned earlier those are the customers who will have less problems

in regards to the type of products used in their hair since they will be more interested on

making their hair fabulous. However, there has been a growing demand for natural hair

products but it is still on a thinking process since we also have customers who come with

Hair loss and while carrying out our research we have found out that natural hair products

do help a lot with the scalp”

Refer to Appendix 9 for further information

66

Chapter 5: Analysis

The author’s purpose was to discover how African women residing at Glasgow West End

felt towards the lack of marketing done to the Afro-Caribbean natural hair segment, and

how African and Non-African Salon tried to satisfy their market needs/wants.

This chapter will analyse and draw conclusions from findings, literature review and

secondary research carried out by the researcher. It will be analysed in order to examine

the effectiveness of the researcher conducted.

Findings Analysis

5.1 African population growth

Primary information gained from research, demonstrated African women awareness on

the increase of the African population in Glasgow throughout the years. One respondent

made a comparison in relation to Department stores providing natural hair products;

“I would go to Superdrug, unlike 10 to 20 years ago in Glasgow where obviously there was

not a lot of African people”.

In relation to the literature review carried out, under Population; the size of the ethnic

minority population in Scotland rapidly increased, predominantly the African population.

Primary research suggested that Department Stores have been unable to market to the

Afro-Caribbean hair market.

67

According to Employability Scotland 2014, the African population grew rapidly from 5,000

in 2001 to 30,000 in 2011, the growth was mainly due to immigration from families and

students studying over in Scotland and later acquiring a job or staying permanently.

The author’s Online and Telephone survey, showed that 75% of respondents were

students, 18.75% and 4 Telephone participants were employed. This result agrees with

the literature review carried out, since the majority of African’s migrating to Glasgow from

the author’s sample were employees and students.

5.2 African women Department store convenience

According to (Colour Cosmetics, 2014) Department stores should be able to take

advantage from the growing Afro-Caribbean hair segment. Primary information gained

from research, displayed names of Department stores that African women purchase their

hair products from;

“I purchase Olive Oil from Sainsbury’s because is close to my house”

“I used Dark and Lovely hair products which I purchased in Boots”

“I purchase Olive Oil from TESCO”

Furthermore, primary researcher revealed that African women purchase their natural hair

products from local and convenient stores like: Superdrug, Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Boots.

However, it was discovered that mature African women prefer to purchase hair products

from Department stores due to convenience;

68

“I would consider going to Department stores since it’s more local and they are available

around my area.”

“I purchase Olive Oil from Sainsbury’s because is close to my house”

“I presently purchase olive oil products in Superdrug since it's cheaper than in an African

store. However, I would probably buy more products in Department stores”

“I would go to Superdrug’s, because they have cheaper Olive oil products”

Literature review suggest that trends in pension age and divorce rate have made mature

African women, a key consumer group for colour cosmetics, encouraging beauty brands

to use older women in their marketing and advertising (Fashionista, 2014).

In order to discover young African women purchasing preference, the author carried out

an online survey, results showed that 62.50% would prefer to purchase natural hair

products from Department stores and 33.60% preferred to purchase their natural hair

products Online. Results demonstrates that Department stores could effectively take

advantage of the Afro-Caribbean hair market.

5.3 Department Stores lack of Marketing to the African segment in Glasgow

The term multicultural marketing refers to targeting and communicating to ethnic

minority groups in cultural diverse societies (Cui, 1997).

69

Literature review demonstrates how Department stores like Boots, Primark and

Superdrug had begun to stock natural hair products on their shelves. However, they

showed a lack of marketing activity towards the Afro-Caribbean segment in Glasgow.

Through secondary research the author was able to discover Superdrug “Black hair care”

category from the company’s website:

(Superdrug, 2015).

Primary research carried out on participants showed that they were unaware of

Superdrug wide range of Afro-Caribbean hair products;

“Superdrug should do more advertisement. I did not know that they provide African hair

products besides sleek make-up and Mary k”

“Thanks for letting me know, I had no idea that they provided African Hair Natural

products. I will check their online website. However they should definitely do more

promotion since it’s highly needed”

70

In order to discover if African women felt that there was not enough marketing done

towards the growing Afro-Caribbean hair segment. The author carried out an online

survey in order to obtain detailed information;

“No! Not at all. African hair is hardly acknowledged at all in Glasgow. It is only ever

acknowledged by the few African-Caribbean hair salons”

“There is quite a relevant amount but not enough. African shops hair beauty health

products people do not get the recognition they should. Because it is the best products

externally & internally.”

“They don't advertise it. They should cater for the African market as they have a big

community now”

The author identified Superdrug lack of marketing as a weakness, because they do not

seem to have intentions of marketing to the African natural hair segment at the West end

of Glasgow. Literature review states that if a company is unable to market to multicultural

Britain, it should extremely evaluate its ability to market globally (Burton, 2002).

Primary research demonstrated that the African women surveyed were unaware of

Superdrug ability to offer natural hair products. Literature review states that “Ethnic

marketing signifies an opportunity to differentiate a company’s offering in the saturated

market place and to develop new products” (Think ethnic, 2012).

71

Primary information reveals once again that, Department stores should be able to tailor

their message to their targeted segment. Superdrug seems to have an idea of the growing

African market in Glasgow, but they don’t seem to know how to target the African natural

hair segment. Literature review suggest that the theory is to enable consumers to see

themselves in the advertisement or something they can relate to (Wise geek, 2003-2015).

5.4 African Salon awareness on the African hair

Primary information gained from the Manager of an African Salon at (Savoy centre),

demonstrated that a sense of community encourages Africans to help each other and

return for further service. Literature review agrees with such statement, Russell and

Russell (2010) discovered that when an ethic group identity is strong, people will put more

emphasis on activities which will benefit their group;

“The products that we have are limited since the majority of our customer’s buy products

from the Shops across, since they have an extensive range. From there the customer can

come back with their product of their choice and we can apply it to their hair”

Literature review suggest that “Ethnic marketing tries to use special tactics that are

designed to attract the selected segment’s attention” (Burton, 2002). In order to prove

the literature review valid, the author carried out primary information to prove its validity

from the Manager of the African Salon;

72

“We are aware of the increase of the African community in Glasgow, which is the reason

why Savoy has 3 African Salons in it. I think that the fact that we also have a store in which

all African and Caucasian customers can purchase a product of their choice, we are just

generating profit for all of us”

Furthermore, the author intended to test the knowledge of the African Salon’s manager

in regards to Sulphate hair products for the African scalp. Literature describes how

dangerous products containing Sulphate can be for Afro-Caribbean scalp “. Result can be

as bad as the images below:

African Salon, burned my hair with a straighter. They told me I shouldn't had moved. In

Glasgow. She was not pain attention”

The Manager from the African Salon answered as follow;

73

“We do have two relaxers that we use, but we do not know or we are not aware that they

are Sulphate free”

The author believes that African Salons should have had a better idea of products

containing Sulphate. However, the Manager’s response demonstrates that not only

Department Stores are unaware of the damages that products containing Sulphate can

cause to the Afro-Caribbean scalp, but also the selected African Salon was also unaware

of the damages that it can cause.

Literature review obtained suggest that hair loss is epidemic among African-American

women of all ages, Afro-Textured hair is drier, has more breakage and some hairstyles

could stress the scalp (Thegrio, 2012). The Manager of the African Salon describes how

she hired her employees:

“The people I hire do inform me and tell me about their background as a Hairstylist. So I

first give them a trial and see their potential if I like what they do and if the client is satisfied

then I hire them depending on their availability”.

Primary information shows that hairstylist from the selected African Salon are not trained

or educated into the Afro-Caribbean hair. The author believes that such hiring methods

could damage the image of a Salon since not all customers are the same. As demonstrated

in the Interviews carried out;

74

“Through the relaxer problem I had in Ghana I became aware of products containing

Sulphate being bad for African’s hair”

“I only trust a specific Hair dresser, one who comes to my house. In an African Salon they

were not listening to me. I don’t trust other hairstylist”

“It burnt off a massive portion of my hair”

Literature review states that it’s important for marketers to know the strengths of ethnic

minority marketing, because they can be classified into those with weak/strong ties to

their ethnic culture (Williams and Qualls, 1989). Therefore, the selected African Salon

should know how to use their hairstylist and train them to the strength of the business.

5.5. Non-African Salon awareness on the African Market in Glasgow

Primary research carried out by the author suggest that there is an opportunity for Non-

African Salons to break into the Afro-Caribbean hair market. When asked if participants

would prefer to go to a Non-African Salon: 62.50% of participants answered YES, 18.75%

answered no and 18.75% did not know.

Literature review states that when it comes to Multicultural Marketing, the majority of

marketers are unable to personalise their communication to the UK diverse audience

(Think Ethnic, 2012). In order to check its validation, a Face-to-Face interview was carried

out with the Manager of a Non-African Salon;

75

“We are not really into the Afro-Caribbean hair markets, since the majority of our

customers come to highlight their hair, cut and blow dry”

The Manager of the Non-African Salon, demonstrated ignorance in the Afro-Caribbean

hair market. The manager ironically stated that African people do not “highlight, cut or

blow dry” their hair, which is the reason why they did not target the Afro-Caribbean

segment.

It was the author’s purpose to discover if the selected Non-African store, trained their

hairstylist into the Afro-Caribbean Hair, the following answer was given;

“We have not had the need to train our staff into Afro-Caribbean hair since where we are

situated as well as the type of customers we market; it’s more directly to the Caucasian

market. Since as mentioned earlier those are the customers who will have fewer problems

in regards to the type of products used in their hair since they will be more interested on

making their hair fabulous.”

Primary information results, demonstrates how the selected Non-African store had no

intentions of targeting the Afro-Caribbean segment due to convenience. It has to be

highlighted that the Manager from the Non-African store believed that African women

are not interested on making their hair look “fabulous”.

Literature review states that for decades marketers have been using one marketing plan

to satisfy the entire market’s needs. However, with customer’s demands increasing,

companies have found themselves under pressure with competitors, which resulted in a

move from mass market to segment marketing (Burk, 2003). In the case of the selected

76

Non-African store, the Manager demonstrates awareness on the growth of African

population in Glasgow;

“Well we have realised that the African community in Glasgow has been growing since 10

years ago there were not as many African’s as much as you can see now on the streets.

We have also noticed that there has been an increase on African Salons in Glasgow city

centre and the also our clients have started to ask for weaves and wigs fit in”.

Results show that the Manager from the Non-African store has the ability to market and

deliver natural hair products and services to the African segment in the West end of

Glasgow. However, the lack of knowledge on the African women’s hair needs and

products usage makes them lose opportunity to growth in the African natural hair

segment.

5.6 Recommendations and Reflections

The author was able to discover new information which was not found on the literature

review. Primary research showed that African women who reside at the West end of

Glasgow would prefer to purchase natural hair products from local Department Stores like

Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Boots due to convenience and cheaper rates, rather than shopping

at an African store. However, primary research demonstrated that African women would

prefer to style their hair at an African Salon because they felt more comfortable and

accepted. Both young and mature African women residing at the West end of Glasgow

would prefer to purchase hair products from Department stores due to convenience.

77

Primary information showed that African women would prefer to purchase their hair

products in-store instead of offline since it allows them to smell the product and see it

physically.

Literature review states that consumer researchers in Britain have ignored the diversity

within ethnic minority groups. Precisely, the strengths of ethnic minority identity and

acculturation of Africans living in the UK (Burton, 2000).

The Non-African Salon selected, did not show any interest of wanting to target the Afro-

Caribbean hair segment, even though the Manager knew that “White” customers have

started to ask for natural hair products like cornrows and weaves. Primary research

demonstrates the Manager’s awareness towards the growing African segment.

Nevertheless, both young and mature African women residing at the West end of Glasgow

would not enter into a Non-African Salon due to intimidation from a lack of advertisement

towards the African segment in their stores.

The author discovered via primary research that Superdrug’s did not at all carry out any

shape of advertisement towards the “Black hair Care” on their website. The author

suggested that Superdrug should see ethnic marketing as an opportunity to increase profit

and grow as a business, it’s evident that they have not done enough to increase the Afro-

Caribbean product line advertisement in Glasgow and African women residing at the West

end of Glasgow had no knowledge of Superdrug’ ability to supply Afro-Caribbean hair

products.

78

The researcher was able to discover that Department Stores and Non-African Salons are

indeed not doing enough or any advertisement in order to target to the growing African

segment in Glasgow. Results shows that African women at the West end of Glasgow do

want to have more advertisement done towards their hair segment. Therefore, marketers

and companies should not be afraid to target this market accordingly since they could be

missing out from the growing multicultural Glasgow.

The author was able to achieve the objectives stated on the Introduction Chapter. The

approach that the author took in order to obtain information from Salons were

effective. However the author wished they had more time to investigate other Salons at

the West end of Glasgow. the researcher identified a gap between the literature review

gained since author’s seem to not break down the different African nationalities and the

author suggest that it could be based on country or gender rather on “Africa”.

The researcher advises to other students for research in the future to try and contact

Sally, Superdrug, Tesco or Boots managers, in order to discover the reason why they do

not seem to provide enough Afro-Caribbean natural hair products in Glasgow, and ask

why they are not taken advantage of the growing segment. Where from the primary

research, African women do indeed purchase or have intentions of purchasing natural

hair products in their stores.

79

Appendices

Appendix 1: African type make-up brands

80

Appendix 2: Population by ethnic group in April, 2001

United Kingdom Numbers

England Wales Scotland Northern

Ireland England &

Wales Great Britain United

Kingdom

White 44,679,361 2,841,505 4,960,334 1,672,698 47,520,866 52,481,200 54,153,898

British 42,747,136 2,786,605 * * 45,533,741 50,366,497 .

Scottish * * 4,459,071 * . . .

Irish 624,115 17,689 49,428 * 641,804 691,232 .

Other British * * 373,685 * . . .

Other White 1,308,110 37,211 78,150 * 1,345,321 1,423,471 .

Mixed 643,373 17,661 12,764 3,319 661,034 673,7982 677,117

White and Black Caribbean 231,424 5,996 * * 237,420 . .

White and Black African 76,498 2,413 * * 78,911 . .

White and Asian 184,014 5,001 * * 189,015 . .

Other Mixed 151,437 4,251 * * 155,688 . .

Asian or Asian British/Scottish 2,248,289 25,448 55,007 2,679 2,273,737 2,328,744 2,331,423

Indian 1,028,546 8,261 15,037 1,567 1,036,807 1,051,844 1,053,411

Pakistani 706,539 8,287 31,793 666 714,826 746,619 747,285

Bangladeshi 275,394 5,436 1,981 252 280,830 282,811 283,063

Other Asian 237,810 3,464 6,196 194 241,274 247,470 247,664

Black or Black British/Scottish 1,132,508 7,069 8,025 1,136 1,139,577 1,147,602 1,148,738

Black Caribbean 561,246 2,597 1,778 255 563,843 565,621 565,876

Black African 475,938 3,727 5,118 494 479,665 484,783 485,277

Black Other 95,324 745 1,129 387 96,069 97,198 97,585

Chinese or other ethnic groups 435,300 11,402 25,881 5,435 446,702 472,583 478,018

Chinese 220,681 6,267 16,310 4,145 226,948 243,258 247,403

Any other ethnic group 214,619 5,135 9,571 1,290 219,754 229,325 230,615

All ethnic groups 49,138,831 2,903,085 5,062,011 1,685,267 52,041,916 57,103,927 58,789,194

81

Appendix 3: Quotes from African women’s hair experience:

“Cheryl Swinger damaged her hair over the years, after two decades of wearing weaves. The more her hair dropped out, the more reliant she

was on extensions to cover up her bald spots” (The grio, 2012).

“My desire to go natural came as a result of damaged hair due to relaxers, hot irons and using the wrong products on my hair. My mother made the decision to relax my hair when I was about 8, simply because my hair was tough, thick and too time consuming for her to maintain ” (Hair Naturel, 2005-2015)

“In 2012, Solange Knowles a singer and song writer received negative criticism in regards to the natural look of the hair. “Solange Knowles proudly defend her afro after critics call her natural hair unkempt and dry as heck”. Solange left her natural hair since she was able to express herself with her daily style (Mail Online, 2012).”

A Northamptonshire hairdresser of African-Caribbean descendants raised awareness of the dangers of products used in the black hair industry. The hairdresser stated that the number of African women buying relaxer packs has doubled. The relaxer contains a chemical Sodium Hydroxide which breaks down the protein of the Afro hair causing it to become straight, but if left for longer than necessary it can cause permanent hair loss (BBC Northampton, 2010);

"It's becoming more worrying now as I have mothers wanting to chemically straighten their child's hair at 2 years old. This can permanently damage their hair follicles and even cause scalp problems," said Gerry.

82

Appendix 4: Afro Hair styles

Type 4 hair type requires a lot of maintenance since once it has been brushed or combed its common for the hair to break, creating hair shortage which can be damaged easily. In to maintain this hair type a lot of hair is required, since hair has to be always moisturised with a high quality conditioner that contains natural rich butters and 100% natural oils. This hair type tends to shrink a lot approximately 75% of the actual length. Therefore, (SLS) should be avoided (Hair Naturel, 2005-2015).

83

Figure 11: Shows an Afro-Caribbean BRAIDS hairstyle (Pinterest)

Figure 12: Shows an example of a Wig (Aliexpress, 2010-2015)

84

Appendix 5: Saunders et al (2009) highlights the three main sources of

Literature as:

(Saunders et al, 2009:69)

Appendix 6: Q2 Online Survey Do you trust hairdressers to style your Hair? Responses: “Sometimes I do. I just fear that a hairdresser might overcharge me and then mess up my hair and not do it the way I want it done.” ““Not often, since you'll ask for a hairstyle and turn out to be different expectations” “It depends. I have an auntie that i trust to do my hair. But not so much a Hairdresser at a salon. Also I am natural, a lot hair dressers don’t really know to look after my hair.” “No. I come up with my own styles” “Sometimes I find hairdresser's to be quite rough and although they may get the job done there tends to be lots of damage to the hair to get the results.”

85

“Nope, the cost and most salons don't actually listen to the customer and don't read their customers enough.”

If the prices for African hair styles were to decrease would you consider going to a Hair Salon? Responses: “Only if they could do it the way I wanted” “I'd definitely go more often” “Hmmm, probably. But I do my own hair so, probably not as often as the regular woman.”

Would you consider going to an African Saloon or a “normal Salon”? “As long as they know how to look after and treat my hair, then don’t really mind. “ “Both for different reasons a "normal saloon" for my colouring and an African one for everything else. “ Did you have any side effects, if so which side effects did you have?

“It burnt off a massive portion of my hair”

“Scalp damage and thin hair”

“Yes, little bumps on my scalp, burning”

“Yes, hair shredding”

Do you think there in enough advertisement done in Glasgow through TV, magazines, social media towards the African segment and African Hair products?

“There is quite a relevant amount but not enough. African shops hair beauty health products people do not get the recognition they should. Because it is the best products externally & internally.”

“They don't advertise it. They should cater for the African market as they have a big community now”

“There is not enough advertisement done even do they African market has grown throughout the years”

86

Appendix 7: Telephone Interview Participant A

“I see White people coming to African Hair Salons, more and more since I think they know

that African Hair Salons are more specialised and they understand the regimen of using

Natural hair products and braiding hair appropriately”

“Superdrug should do more advertisement. I did not know that they provide African hair

products besides sleek make-up and Mary k- I went to Boots and they told me they did

not know the product MAC since they mentioned it was good for African skin. Over 30.”

Participant B

“Thanks for letting me know, I had no idea that Superdrug provided African Hair Natural products. I will check their online website. However they should definitely do more promotion since it’s highly needed”

“There is not enough advertisement done for the African growing market. I purchase Olive

Oil from Sainsbury’s because is close to my house. I have not been to a Caucasian Salon.

Over 40”

Participant C

“Non-African Salons do not know how to fix extensions on people’s hair since they do not

cornrow the hair before adding extensions. There’s no enough advert done and support

from beauty Scottish companies”

“African Salons are not coming out, although African Salons in Savoy are being patronised

by white people and African people are not supporting”. Over 30”

Participant D

“I purchase Olive Oil from TESCO, because I do not think that Caucasian Salons will do my

hair- when I entered into a Caucasian Salon to get my nail done. I felt uncomfortable to

ask if they could do my hair since they were looking at me as if I’m confused! And there’s

no advertisement in their shops for African hair styles”

“African people do not support each other from my own point of view- Sally Salon only

has a small tiny shelf for African hair care products, African Salons would rather purchase

products from China or London. However, Caucasian manufactures and Salons do go

there. “

“Sally charge too much money for their products. African Salons like to get a bargain and

a good value for their money, might be the reason why they don’t purchase products from

Sally due to retail pricing being expensive.” I would like to know why African Salons do not

buy relaxers from Sally.

87

“China has spoiled the Expressions braids business from Nigeria, what they supply is more

like plastic whereas Nigerians supply a great quality. However, African Salons would rather

go to China to buy than Sally’s”. Over 30

Appendix 8: African Salons The researcher asked the Manager is she was aware of the African community segment in

Glasgow growing, and how did they take advantage of it by the use of Social Media:

“We are aware of the increase of the African community in Glasgow, which is the reason

why Savoy has 3 African Salons in it. I think that the fact that we also have a store in which

all African and Caucasian customers can purchase a product of their choice, we are just

generating profit for all of us. So when for example my Salon is full and busy they can just

go to the corner as there is also another Salon in which they pretty much have knowledge

of taking care of African Hair products. We have a Facebook account in where we

showcase the different Hairstyles that we do to customers. But we have just started and

we do need more expertise into Social Media and taking advantage of it but it is a growing

process”

The researcher asked the Manager if their Hairstylist have been trained or they already

had expertise on dealing with African Hair:

“Well, as for me I started doing Hair in Congo and have always done different hair styles

to my mother, siblings and family. When I came to Glasgow there were not a lot of Salons

or Salons at all in the city centre so I had to learn to style my own hair as well as that of

my kids, and 3 years ago I decide to open my own Salon since I saw that a lot of people

who I knew wanted me to come to my house so I thought it was best to open a Salon,

where everyone will have access. The people I hire do inform me and tell me about their

background as a Hairstylist. So I first give them a trial and see their potential if I like what

they do and if the client is satisfied then I hire them depending on their availability. But

African Salon do try to help each other as we are a growing community. However we might

purchase our products from London or China since it’s cheaper than purchasing it on

Stores like Sally.

Appendix 9: Non-African Salons

The researcher questioned the manager in regards to the relaxed hair products their used

for the African women scalp:

“We are not really into the Afro-Caribbean hair markets, since the majority of our

customers come to highlight their hair, cut, blow dry or make some changes but the Hair

88

relaxer treatment has not been taking into consideration yet, as you mentioned that it is

more targeted to the Afro-Caribbean market.

The researcher asked the Manager if she was aware of the African community segment in

Glasgow growing, and how did they take advantage of it by the use of Social Media:

“Well we have realised that the African community in Glasgow has been growing since 10

years ago there were not as many African’s as much as you can see now on the streets.

However we have also noticed that there has been an increase on African Salons in

Glasgow city centre and the also our clients have started to ask for weaves and wigs fit in.

We glue as well as stock the hair with a machine in a way in which will limit the hair

damage as well as lasting.

89

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