discover trinidad & tobago travel guide 2015 (issue #26)

2015

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Introduction 3

Hometowns 6

A very brief history of T&T 8

Food 10

How to make callaloo 14

Carnival 22

Liming 35

The arts 37

Beaches 40

Eco-adventures 44

Adrenaline rush 61

Detox & de-stress 64

Our heritage 66

Exploring 72

Shopping 78

Accommodation in Trinidad 84

Tobago 97

In the water 98

Diving 102

On the land 107

Tobago for kids 113

Food and shopping 114

Accommodation in Tobago 116

Maps 120

Important info 130

Festivals & calendar of events 134

Safety 136

CONTENTS

Vacation

Family

Quality Service

Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island

Ferry Service

T&

TINTER - ISLAN

TRANSPORTATION CO.L

T&

TINTER - ISLAND

TRANSPORTATION CO.LT

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Welcome to T&T, the New York of the Caribbean.

Here lives the happiest man alive, Machel Montano. And it’s no idle boast by the soca superstar, whose mega-hit of the same name captures the glorious exuber-ance and insouci-ant rhythm of our people. The 1.3 mil-lion inhabitants of this larger-than-life, s u r ro u n d - s o u n d , technicolour, too-r ich- for- i ts -own-good oil and gas republic love to eat, dance, laugh and enjoy life to the max. Plus, we have one of the sexiest accents in the world. (And I’m not saying that just be-cause I’m a Trini; Gallup Inc and CNN actually carried out

these international polls in 2012.)

Trinidad and Tobago, broken-off bits of the South American mainland, are among the richest islands in the world. In addition to large offshore deposits

of natural gas, the largest natural deposit of asphalt and hundreds of species of plants, flowers and animals, the northeast coast of Trini-dad is also the largest nest-

ing ground in the western hemisphere of the Giant Leatherback Turtle (some bigger than a car).

T&T, as we are known around the region, are among the most bio-diverse places in the world. You have

only to sit in a gar-den, even in suburban neighbourhoods like Trincity and Diego Martin, and you will see what appear to be pieces of the sky shoot past (blue-grey tanagers) and flashes of the deepest saf-fron (cornbirds). Trin-idad’s fertile soil has

yielded the hottest pepper in the world (Moruga scorpion); the finest cocoa (Trinitario) and hundreds of varieties of ferns, orchids, bromeliads, bamboo and hardwoods.

introduction

the northeast coast of trinidad is the largest nesting ground in the western hemisphere of the

giant leatherback turtle

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WELCOME

Hundreds of gorgeous species of flowers create riots of colour in gardens, parks, forests, along roadsides and highways... just about everywhere.


This remarkable little republic, covering less than 2,000 square miles, has pro-duced the only new acoustic instrument of the 20th cen-tury, the steel pan; one of the greatest living writers, VS Naipaul; the socialist in-tellectual and cricket writer CLR James; the world-record holder for most Test runs in cricket, Brian Lara; one of the leaders of the Black Panthers and the US civil rights move-

ment, Stokely Carmichael; the first Black Miss Universe, Janelle Commissiong; and (for the first five years of her life anyway) Nicki Minaj.

The people who call these islands home are an intoxicating blend of Amer-indian, African, European, Asian and Middle Eastern bloodlines – reflections of the incredible vitality of their land. The First Peoples called it Iere, land of the hum-

mingbird. Seventeen spe-cies of this mystical acrobat are among the 474 species of birds seen here, flitting among the scandalously co-lourful flowers and feeding on our heavenly fruits.

The most wonderful thing about Trinbagonians, though, is the way we live life – to the very fullest. We eat well, we party hearty, and we love a good lime (Trini talk for hanging out – be it at the beach, in the backyard or by the corner bar). Nobody can dance quite like us; we do things with our hips that beguile and bewilder the virgin ‘winer’. It is, in many ways, our number one cop-ing mechanism.

For further enlighten-ment, watch Sonja Dumas’ TedX lecture, ‘The Hip as a Weapon’, on YouTube, which explains how to wine.

Required listening (to understand the power of soca)• Possessed (Machel Montano and Kerwin DuBois,

featuring Ladysmith Black Mambazo)• Raise Your hands and Leh Go (Roy Cape All Stars and

Blaxx)• Differentology (Bunji Garlin)• Truck on de Road (Bunji Garlin)• Wotless (Kes the Band)• Happiest Man Alive (Machel Montano)

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The tufted coquette hummingbird is one of the 430 species of birds found here.

6 | DISCOVER TRINIDAD & TOBAGO

hometownshometowns

The lighthouse in Toco, the most east-ern point in Trinidad, has been re-named in honour of the island’s javelin

champion, Keshorn Walcott. The 2012 Olym-pic gold medallist, the first black male athlete to win the gold medal in a throwing event in the history of the Games, was born in this tiny, remote village. At the lighthouse you can walk out on to a jagged outcrop and stand on the corner of the island where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet. Below, power-ful waves smash into the rocks below, rolling logs and boulders on to the beach. The view of the blue waters is both magnificent and terrifying.

St James, the city that never sleeps, is the birthplace of hip hop superstar, Nicki Minaj. The controversial per-

former, who was born Onika Tanya Maraj, left Trinidad for New York when she was just five. She returned in 2012 to film the music vid-eo for “Pound the Alarm”. St James, on the outskirts of Port of Spain, was once a sugar estate. The area was settled by East Indian indentured labourers so streets have names like Delhi, Bombay, Calcutta, Benares and Ganges. On any given night, no matter what time, people can be found liming along the Western Main Road in St James. During the Islamic festival of Hosay even non-Muslims come out in the streets and dance to the ir-resistible sound of tassa drums.

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The Keshorn Walcott lighthouse at Galera Point in Toco dates back to 1867 and is still used to warn ships about the rough waters below.

Tassa drummers liven up the streets of St. James during the Muslim festival of Hosay as ‘tadjahs’ (model mausoleums) are

paraded to commemorate the martyrdom of Hussein, grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.


Siparia is the hometown of Machel Mon-tano, the republic’s most famous soca star. The annual festival of La Divina

Pastora, celebrated a few weeks after Eas-ter, centres on an 18th century statue known as the Black Virgin. The statue’s origins are unknown, yet it is venerated by Hindus and Catholics alike. Believers of other religions, including Islam and Buddhism, as well as in-digenous Waraoa Indians, have been known to worship the saint.

Montano grew up in Siparia, where he attended the Roman Catholic boys’ primary school, and then the prestigious Presenta-tion College in San Fernando. During a career spanning more than 30 years the singer and producer has headlined almost every car-nival in the world, and recorded songs with American rappers Pitbull and Busta Rhymes, dancehall artistes Buju Banton, Beenie Man, Vybz Kartel and Mr Vegas, Wyclef Jean (The Fugees), as well as Shaggy, Doug E. Fresh, and the legendary Calypso Rose.

Down the islands, off the coast of Trini-dad, is Anya Ayoung-Chee’s favou-rite place to chill out. This chain of

tiny islands is a magical place, an easy es-cape from the urban chaos of Port of Spain via speedboat, yacht or pirogue from any of numerous marinas. The winner of season nine of Project Runway, an American real-ity television series on the Lifetime network which focuses on fashion, Ayoung-Chee was crowned Miss Trinidad and Tobago Universe in 2008. A graduate of Parsons School of Design and Central St Martin’s School of Art and Design, she worked as a designer in New York until 2007, when she returned to Trini-dad. Her women’s label, Pilar, continues to make waves, and her lingerie line, Anya de Rogue, remains the first of its kind in the Ca-ribbean. She also designs costumes for the carnival band Tribe.

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The waters of the Gulf of Paria reflect the bright lights of holiday homes down the islands, off the northeast coast of Trinidad.


hometowns

Nowhere in the world will you find so many differ-ent cultures and nationalities living together peace-fully – and not just existing, but liming together! A

typical Trini lime could throw up all sorts of ethnicities and nationalities.

Amerindians from the South American mainland – mainly from the Kalinago and Taino tribes – first settled the islands. On Christopher Columbus’ third voyage he claimed the islands for the Spanish crown. Trinidad remained in Spanish hands until 1797, though largely settled by French planters. Tobago changed hands 27 times between the British, French, Dutch and Courlanders, but eventually ended up in British hands. In 1889 the two islands were joined to form a single crown colo-ny. Trinidad and Tobago obtained its independence from the British Empire in 1962 and became a republic in 1976.

Over the last few decades, Trinidad’s enormous wealth has attracted immigrants from neighbouring Grenada, St Vincent, Jamaica, Cuba, Venezuela, and as far away as Syria, Lebanon, Germany, Nigeria – to add to the already dazzling mix of Afro-Trinis (whose ancestors were mainly from West Africa – Nige-ria and Ghana), Indo-Trinis (from Uttar Pradesh and Madras), Asian Trinis (from Guangdong Province and Hong Kong), as well as the remaining descendants of the First Peoples (Amer-indians), many of whom live in Arima and Valencia.

a very brief history of t&t

We are the WORLD


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The descendants of the First Peoples of Trinidad and Tobago pay homage to their ancestry with smoke ceremonies.


So yes, the food is amazing. You could, in theory, never eat the same thing for a month in Trinidad. From cre-ole to Caribbean fusion, Indian to Italian, the smorgas-

bord of cuisines on these islands is staggering. We love to eat. Trinidad has more Chinese restaurants per square mile than China itself, it seems. These legions of Cantonese-style out-lets each serve dozens of dishes with every type of seafood and meat. You will also wonder, how many roti shops can one island have? Until you’ve had a shrimp paratha roti with bhagi and curry mango, that is. Then, you will wonder why there aren’t more roti shops in the world.

Warning: Chicken roti generally contains chicken on the bone, so be sure to ask for boneless chicken, if available. If not, take a surgical approach to the roti: open it up and re-move the bones first. Or bite gingerly and proceed with cau-tion.

Most people start the non-stop munching at the airport – with a doubles. Flight crews make a beeline for the doubles man as they touch down. This humble-looking chapatti with curried channa is the most popular street food in Trinidad, and never fails to enrapture. Served with sauces and chut-neys, doubles are sold by street vendors across the country. St James and Curepe are well-known as 24-hour doubles pit stops. Every Trini has a favourite doubles vendor. An app (on

food

WE LIVE TO EAT


Android) called “Eat ah Doubles” helps you to locate your nearest vendor.

The perfect place to sample a bit of all our street food is St James at night. The Western Main Road plays host to vendors of souse (cold, pickled meat), roti, grilled chicken, burgers, corn soup, boiled corn, ital food and home-made ice-cream (including Guinness). Food vendors are required to display food badges from the Health Authority. Most street food is safe, but it’s best to avoid oysters.

Pies are our other cheap and cheerful street favourite. Aloo (Hindi for potato) is a popular option, and comes with channa, chutney and sauces such as tamarind and mango. Sa-heena is made with dasheen bush, baiganie with aubergine. Beef, fish and cheese are also made into delicious fillings for both fried and flaky pastries.

Vegetarian and vegans will find eating here a blissful experience with fresh fruits and vegetables available year-round. There is always a fruit in season – mango, passion fruit, cashew, grapefruit, orange, mandarin, pommerac, pommecy-there (June plum in Jamaica), chennette, guava, melon, caram-bola, sapodilla, soursop, papaya, pineapple or tamarind. Our ground provisions (yam, eddoes, dasheen, sweet potatoes, cassava, tannia, potatoes, topi tambu, peewah, chataigne, breadfruit) are formidable and filling. They are lovingly paired

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Roasted breadfruit is usually paired with stewed saltfish or fried fish.


with vital “itals” like plantain, callaloo (dasheen) bush, pumpkin, christophene, to-mato “choka” (roasted to-matoes with onions, garlic and seasoning), baigan (au-bergine) choka and curry bodi (green beans). We also have a dozen divine varieties of avocado (better known as zaboca). With so many devout Hindus and Rastafar-ians in T&T, most restaurants serve veggie dishes.

The Trini approach to selecting which animals can be eaten is straightforward: Once it moves, it’s going to get curried, stewed or bar-becued. Beef, lamb, chicken, shrimp, ribs, fish and pig-tail – all will be cooked or charred into delectable bites. The se-cret to our sensuous cooking is our seasoning – a blend of chives, chadon beni (ci-lantro), garlic, onion, celery, pimento pepper and thyme. We also grow and use a lot of nutmeg, clove, ginger, rou-cou/annatto, bay leaf, anise, lemon/fever grass and spring onion.m

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Warning: Chicken roti generally contains chicken on the bone, so be sure to ask for boneless chicken, if available.


how to

1. Assemble ingredients2. Wash and chop callaloo bush (if using);

ochroes; pumpkin; scallions and onions; slice carrots; mince garlic. Chop the thyme finely or place entire bunch whole in the pot (remove the stems after cooking). If possible, use fresh coconut milk (grate coconut into hot water and squeeze out juice); if not, you can use canned coconut milk (look for a brand without preserva-tives)

3. In a saucepan over low heat, add one tablespoon of olive oil, then add the pumpkin, carrots, ochroes, callaloo (or spinach), scallions, onion, thyme and garlic, and habanero pepper

4. Add the coconut milk. Salt to taste; add freshly ground black pepper

5. Cover and let simmer for 60-90 minutes until all the ingredients are cooked and

soft. Turn every 15-20 minutes to mix and pre-vent sticking to the bot-tom of the pot

6. When finished, remove pepper (being careful not to burst it) and meat (if any). Swizzle using a swizzle stick, also called dhal ghutney in Trinidad, to break up any chunks.

RIA’S Trinidad Callaloo

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Trinidad Callaloo

Ingredients1 tablespoon of olive oil10 oz of callaloo bush, or 2 packages of frozen, chopped spinach* 1 lb pumpkin (squash or calabaza), cubed1/2 lb ochro, sliced into 1 inch pieces or use pre-cut frozen ochro1 medium carrot, thinly sliced1 medium onion, chopped4-5 scallions, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)1 bunch of thyme (whole or chopped finely)6 large garlic cloves, minced2 cups of coconut milksalt and pepper (approx. 3 teaspoons of salt and 1 tsp of freshly ground black pepper)1 habanero pepper

Optional – 1 lb chicken, beef, crab or prepared salted meat

Alternatively, you can use a food proces-sor, blender or hand immersion blender for a finer, smoother consistency

7. Enjoy over rice or with macaroni pie.

* It is difficult to find what is known locally as callaloo bush, the leaves of the dasheen plant, outside of Trinidad, so frozen spin-ach may be used as a substitute.

With special thanks to Ria, a Trini living in New York, who provided the recipe and photos. www.cookingwithria.com

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Most of the fine dining restaurants are in and around Port of Spain (mainly Woodbrook) and San Fernando, with a few in the east and central Trinidad. The finer chefs at the top restaurants have worked internationally, and tend to experiment with local ingredients in Caribbean fusion dishes, while others are con-tent to take the traditional Creole cuisine to dizzying heights of delectability. European styles include Spanish, French, English and Italian. Lebanese, Japanese, Thai, Korean and Hakka (In-dian/Chinese) have also been added to the never-ending list of culinary options in T&T. Even health nuts are catered for, with salad bars cropping up on the every-trendy Ariapita Avenue in Woodbrook. In a culture that adores wild meat and rich gravies, things like olives and spinach have always been bystanders to the main course. Nowadays though, words like organic and vegan are being bandied about, and more menus are tapping into the many fruits and veggies available year-round.

Tip: Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner.

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Our meats are often stewed and smothered in sublime sauces that lead to shameless bone chewing and finger licking.


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The secret to our sensational food is the seasoning, a potent blend of chadon beni (a local cousin of cilantro), chive, celery, thyme, pimento, garlic and parsley.


hometowns

ChowChow captures the Trini personality. Most people would look at a pineapple or mango and think, what a sweet fruit. And eat it just like that. And be happy. But no. Trinis look at a mango or a pineapple and think, Chow. They look at this sweet innocent fruit and add salt, black pep-per, hot pepper, garlic, chadon beni, sometimes even onions and lime… Good god, why? But then, you taste it. And it leaves you reeling, weeping and gasping for breath – depending on how hot the pepper is. But after you’ve drunk the second gallon of water and washed your face, and your tongue has stopped throbbing, you find yourself wanting to taste it again…

PelauPelau is our version of Jamaica’s rice and peas – and we also add chicken or beef to this one-pot wonder that has featured so prominently in our cultural history. It was, for decades, the trademark dish of the cricket lime, the “all fours” (card game) lime, the football fete match, and the fete itself. Long before the all-inclusive fete took over the dance, pelau was the reliable dish to keep the crowd happy and full at parties.

Home-made ice creamA Sunday afternoon tradition that has survived in the modern age, ice-cream making by hand brings the added flavour of love. For a sample, try Miss Babbsie’s coconut ice cream. She is located in a small shop on Paria Main Road, Cumana, Toco (by the Roman Catholic school). This now-legendary ice cream also comes in cherry-coconut, Guinness, rum and raisin, peanut, soursop, barbadine, chocolate and seamoss.


At the base of this iconic skyscraper, which is perfectly perched on the edge of Woodbrook and St James,

a virtual one-stop shop for foodies has been created. Just minutes away from Ari-apita Avenue, One Plaza at One Woodbrook Place is now a haven for restaurateurs – with its central location; tonnes of free, secure parking; Digicel IMAX complex; and celebrity clients (residents of apartments in the high-rise block, or their friends).

It was only a matter of time before Pizza Hut, for years the sole food outlet on site, got some serious competition. Now, the rapidly growing list of restaurants and cafés jostling for space at THE “des res” in Trinidad include Chaud Café and Wine Bar (its highly rated big brother, Chaud Restaurant, is located around the Queen’s Park Savannah); The Port; Shesha Café & Lounge; Urban Oasis Café; Svaada; Samu-rai and Annie’s Chinese Restaurant, of-fering Middle Eastern (everything halal), Mediterranean, vegan, vegetarian, sushi, salads, sandwiches, pasta, gourmet burg-ers, tartines, strip steak, scallops, shrimp, octopus, squid, mussels, clams and… the list is endless. And we haven’t even men-tioned the desserts, which include warm apple crumble, banana beignets and choc-olate espresso mousse.

What more could you want? Ah, yes, a little after-dinner conversation … over a hookah. Shesha Café & Lounge also pro-vides the increasingly popular hookahs, complete with tobacco in flavours like grape, lime, apple and lemon mint.

ONEPLAZAat One Woodbrook Place

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The Middle Eastern influence is alive and smoking hot – hookahs are the newest rage in trendy T&T.

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carnival

It’s like carnival in Rio, but in English. Tens of thousands of costumed revellers take to the streets of the capital every year, a conquering army of marauding dancers that rolls

through downtown Port of Spain on a wave of music. Dias-pora Trinis fly in from freezing corners of the globe to “jump and wave and misbehave” for two glorious days. This is the mother of if not all, certainly most of the carnivals around the world – Notting Hill, Labor Day, Caribana, Miami, and many others across the US. The intoxicating mix of high-energy mu-sic and street theatre performed by masqueraders, some in costumes 50ft tall, make the massive parade an unforgettable experience of a lifetime.

CARNIVALwhere we all come together as one

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‘All ah we is one family’ – a popular calypso captures the camaraderie on the road among masqueraders.


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A blue devil, one of the many fascinating traditional Carnival characters, breathes fire (with some handy kerosene and a flambeau). One of the most exciting and atmospheric places to experience blue devils in action is Paramin in Maraval on Carnival Monday afternoon.


Back in the late 18th century, Trini-dad was still a forgotten outpost of the Spanish Empire. The island re-

mained almost totally under forest cover. It was, literally, a jungle out here. Spain issued an invitation to French planters and inves-tors in the neighbouring Caribbean islands to cultivate the land. These French Creoles brought with them their own African slaves, as well as the Catholic tradition of prepar-ing for the austerity of Lent with a carnival (a literal farewell to the ‘flesh’). This took the form of grand masquerade balls, where the planters and their wives danced the nights away tothe sound of music. The slaves watched it all from their quarters – and decided to have their own version, based on their own West African dances, songs and festivals.

When the British snatched Trin-idad from Spain in 1797, the slaves continued the annual carnival rituals – including stick-fighting (an African tradition). But when slavery ended in the 1830s, carnival took on an increas-ingly rowdy and defiant tone. The British attempted to ban drumming, which moti-vated the former slaves to search for new ways to make music. This led, with so many discarded oil drums from the burgeoning energy industry, to the invention of the steel pan.

The colonial authorities became worried and concerned members of the elite wrote

angry letters to the editors of newspapers demanding that the ex-slaves’ celebrations be banned. A big showdown in Port of Spain in 1881 between bands of stick-fight-ers and the colonial police left many dead, and others badly wounded. A re-enactment of these Canboulay Riots takes place every Carnival Friday at five in the morning at the corner of Duke and George Streets in downtown Port of Spain.

Here you can see traditional characters, like the jab jab and imp, the pierrot grenade and the midnight robber, and discover the intriguing stories behind them.

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French celebration

AFRICAN RHYTHMS

The idea behind the many styles of costumes on offer is to ‘play yuhself’, i.e. have the time of your life.


Efforts to ban or control the Carnival in the 19th century have influenced the modern incarnation of the festival – and some say, the society. To this day an anti-author-

itarian tradition of satire and defiance is hardwired into Car-nival; the public awaits, with glee, the loaded lyrics of those master calypsonians who can deliver “licks” to those involved in the latest scandal. Calypsonians are seen as griots and chantuelles, according to West African traditions. The early 20th-century calypso maestros who toured Europe included Atillah, Invader, Lion, The Mighty Sparrow, Lord Kitchener, Chalkdust, Black Stalin and The Mighty Shadow. Their suc-cessors, SuperBlue and David Rudder, held on to the story-telling aspect of the art, but the tradition began giving way to soca in the ’90s, with lyrics losing ground to driving rhythm and much faster tempo.

The two early traditions of Carnival – one African and sub-versive, the other French and celebratory – are still very much alive in the 21st century. However, the main thrust these days seems to be wining.

Nothing can stop the

CARNIVAL


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Beads, baubles and bling galore: glimmers of the gaudy origins of Trinidad’s carnival – the French masquerade ball.


Wining is everything to Trinis. It is the alpha and the omega of our being, our interpretation of yin and yang. It’s not just sexy dancing. This is sexual heal-

ing – and there’s a science to it. The reason it feels so damn good to “wuk up your waist” is that it gives the spine, which is part of the central nervous system, a good shake-up and awakens all kinds of senses. Like high-impact yoga and pilates – at 180rpm – it often includes gravity-defying positions and contortions. It will definitely raise your kundalini and chakras. This is why the virgin winer may find himself trembling and tingling after being “wound” upon for the first time. Wining is our therapy. If a Trini is happy they will put on some soca and start to wine. If they’re sad or angry, and they hear soca and start to wine, they feel better. To test this theory, play “Possessed” (Machel Montano, Kerwin DuBois and Ladysmith Black Mambazo) or “Wotless” (Kes the Band).

Wining lessons: If you would like to master “the wine”, women-only dance studio SHE (Sexy Healthy Energetic) Casa in St. Augustine teaches “winercise” – aerobics with a focus on the pel-vis – and SHEflex, yoga with a sexy twist that improves flexibility and includes exotic dancing techniques using chairs.

The science of wining – it’s all

IN THE SPINE

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‘Raise your hands and leh go’ goes the soca hit song – and that’s exactly what Trinis do on the streets during the parade of the bands.


The wine in

ACTIONFetes

This is where you can see – and feel – for yourself what all the fuss is about. The central aim of the fete is to wine

and have a good time. Another French bless-ing, the fete (and feteing) is a key component of carnival, and some say, the Trini psyche. Massive parties, with tens of thousands of people, are held almost every weekend from early November until carnival weekend. Many are now all-inclusive, an all-you-can-eat-and-drink extravaganza, headlined by the most popular bands who take the business of win-ing seriously.

Soca stars

Soca music’s driving rhythm is popular in gyms, especially aerobics classes. Its fast tempo is perfect for workouts.

This is feel-good music that makes your mus-cles move – starting in the pelvis. The stars of the techno generation of soca are Machel Montano, Bunji Garlin, his wife FayAnn Lyons, Kes Dieffenthaller, Destra Garcia, Kerwin Du Bois, Iwer George and Denise Belfon. They have taken the music to new levels and in dif-ferent directions. International club DJs Ma-jor Lazer remixed songs by Machel and Bunji (“The Fog” and “Differentology”), which have become hits on the European club scene. c

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The Happiest Man Alive, Machel Montano, is a pioneer of the airborne wine.


Major Lazer’s Jillionaire

The Jillionaire, as he is known to millions of electronic music

fans, was born Christopher Leacock in Chaguanas, Trini-dad. As part of the massively successful DJ group Major Lazer, he regularly plays in clubs in the UK, the US, and Europe regularly and tours with superstar DJ Diplo. Jillionaire stole the show at Notting Hill Carnival in Lon-don in 2009 with a blend of soca, dancehall and onstage antics.

In 2013 he and DJ Diplo did a remix of Bunji Garlin’s “Differentology” and have been playing it at their live shows where it always sends the crowd wild.

Major Lazer plans to stage a show in Trinidad, and projects in the pipeline with local artistes include a col-laboration between Machel Montano and US producer Pharrell Williams; a “power soca” tune; a remix for US rapper and musician Mackl-emore with T&T producer 1st Klase and Swappi; a song with Shurwayne Winchester, and plans to work with Kes the Band. Jillionaire also pro-duces other Trinidadian and Jamaican artists on his label, Feel Up Recordings.

Soca Monarch finals

This has become one of the most anticipated shows of the season. With millions in prize money at stake, this competition is keenly contested – with veterans of the

soca arena, including SuperBlue and Machel Montano, going up against young Turks from at home as well as Barbados, St Vincent and Grenada. Last year, a dark horse, Mr Killa (from Grenada), almost stole the show from Montano with his mas-sive hit, “Rolly Polly”.

Tip: The first half of the show, the Groovy Soca competi-tion, is fairly relaxed and can be observed from the “pit” in front the stage. After that though, when the Power Soca leg of the competition – some truly spectacular stage presentations – head for the hills. Get into the stands quickly. Within minutes the stands of the Na-tional Stadium empty and the football field becomes a heaving, writhing mass of 30,000 sweaty bodies.

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Chris Leacock has been opening (club) doors for T&T’s music through remixes, including Bunji Garlin’s ‘Differentology’.


A core of steel

If you had to name a sound that captures the essence of Trinidad and Tobago, it would be pan. It is the republic’s gift to

the world, the only new acoustic instrument invented in the last century. One of the joys of the carnival season is listening to the doz-ens of steel orchestras – great and small – practising in pan yards across the country. Every major town has a pan side, supported warmly by diehard fans, many of them walk-ing archives of steelpan lore. The older ones can recall precisely how their band played on the night they became Panorama champ in 19whenever. In the weeks before the finals, the pan yard becomes the engine room of the community. Judges visit the pan yards and choose who will take part in the Panorama semi-finals, a massive week-end event where the older aficionados take to the Grand Stand to listen in reverence, while those who come more for the lime than the pan converge on the notorious North Stand opposite (scene of much drunken debauchery over the decades). The best place to hear the band though, some will tell you, is “the track”, the paved concourse to the Big Stage, where the bands do their final warm-ups and run-throughs before their big mo-ment in the spotlight.

Tip: Just ask where the nearest pan yard is and treat yourself to a free show by dazzling per-cussionists.

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Pan virtuosos emerge, after months of painstaking practice, to hypnotise fans at the hotly contested annual festival, Panorama.


Make ‘mas’

Just watching the parade of the bands on Carnival Monday and Tuesday is ex-hilarating (and exhausting) enough for

most people. If, however, you want to join a band, it’s the easiest thing in the world: just go online and book one. Big bands launch as early as July these days.

If you are in Trinidad a week or two be-fore Carnival, you should pop into a ‘mas’ camp, the band’s headquarters. There you will find band members hard at work bend-ing wire, glueing (lots of glueing!) headpiec-es, adding sequins and feathers, adjusting bras and panties, and, if you’re lucky, putting the finishing touches on the king and queen’s costumes.

The Kings and Queens of Carnival are wonders to behold up close. The details in the designs of these behemoths, some as tall as 50ft, are exquisite. You can see them in all

How to get involved in

CARNIVAL

• The National Carnival Commission: www.ncctt.org

• Mas bands: The National Carnival Bandleaders Association

www.ncbatt.com• Pan: Pan Trinbago www.pantrinbago.co.tt• Calypso: Trinbago Unified

Calypsonians Organisation www.tucott.com

their glory on the Big Stage at the Queen’s Park Savannah during the lead-up to carni-val, and on the road.

J’ouvert bands and Carnival bands tend to operate as separate entities, but there are some bands that play both. You can choose to be in a small, medium or big band. Most big bands are all-inclusive, which is pricey but so easy and convenient – you can register online; all your food and drinks are provided on the road; as well as a portable loo; and, if you feel hot and tired, you can chill out in a Mobile Cool Zone, which emits a mist of wa-ter. If you just want a costume, that’s also an option.

J’ouvert

The 48 hours of Carnival begins in the early hours of Monday morning with J’ouvert (French for daybreak). Un-

der the cover of cool darkness, covered from head to foot in mud, paint, oil and/or cocoa paste, the liberating power of this disguise transforms everyone. And then the music truck starts up, feet start to chip, and the shadows begin to move – as one.

On Carnival Monday afternoon Paramin hosts blue devil competitions. To see these terrifying characters in action, breathing fire and making a ruckus with biscuit tins, is car-nival theatre at its most dramatic and sub-lime.


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The road is a runway: Alexander McQueen meets Peter Minshall in the carnival couture designs of K2K Alliance, the brainchild of twin sisters Karen and Kathy Norman, former investment bankers who returned home from the US in 2012 to launch their first band. This costume is called “Finding Venus” from their 2015 presentation, M3: The Long Walk From Home.


The Queen’s Park Oval is famous for being the home ground of Brian Lara, one of the greatest batsmen in the history of cricket.

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The Queen’s Park Oval, home of the Prince of Port of Spain

Many an expat in Trinidad can tell tales of being drunk on the Avenue or walking back to the Hyatt and somebody will stop and a familiar voice will say,

“Boy, I go drop you back to the hotel. Glowing white man like you walking downtown – I doh want to read ’bout you in de papers tomorrow nuh.” It turns out to be the fella who sat next to them at a cricket match in the Oval. Twenty20 cricket has brought a new wave of fans to the game. And the Trini penchant for befriending the fella sitting next to them often leads to a lifetime friendship – or certainly for cricket limes. Numerous sports bars and lounges in and around Port of Spain are popular hangouts for locals and expats. The rum shops and less salubrious bars in St James are also great places to feel the pulse of the people. Trinis love to discuss politics – local, regional and international, and with just about everyone digitally connected, conversations are anything but predictable.

The art of liming and where to

‘buSS A LIME’


Ariapita Avenue

This is Trinidad’s answer to Montego Bay’s Hip Strip, with its profusion of fine restaurants (Creole, Italian,

Asian, and sushi), casinos, members’ clubs, bars and lounges. On Friday and Saturday nights, the massive crowds of after-work of-fice workers turn the sidewalks into street parties. Many a business deal is hammered out on these nights (well, the participants get hammered, if nothing else). After all is said and drunk, the night usually ends with a visit to one of the many street vendors selling doubles, corn soup, burgers, gyros, gourmet waffles, barbecue pig tail... the menu is constantly growing and changing. One never knows what one will find for sale on “De Avenue”.

For a slightly less boisterous experi-ence, tapas bars and lounges can be found in and around Woodbrook. Further west is a less salubrious hip strip, the Western Main Road in St James, which offers the quintes-sential Trini rumshop experience. The crowd here tends to be slightly older and ‘earthier’. The street food is just as tasty and varied as

on the Avenue, with beef roti, chicken foot souse, jerk pork and “ital vitals” among the offerings.

Martin’s – Trinidad’s Cheers

This cosy little piano bar on Woodford Street in Port of Spain is a venerated liming institution. Its owner, the epon-

ymous Martin, is himself a living archive of local knowledge. A great raconteur and wine lover, he has been regaling patrons – at vari-ous locations around Newtown, Port of Spain – for more than 20 years. The staff, who have been with Martin forever, treat customers like family. And the food is excellent. Reason-ably priced delicious lunches – which can be served in the open-air courtyard or indoors in an air conditioned dining area – are ideal if you’re on a budget. The callaloo is heavenly. If you’re in luck, you may be treated to a live performance of old school calypso or jazz. www.facebook.com/martinspianobar

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Street parties in their blood: Trinis will ‘lime’ anywhere there’s alcohol and music.


the arts

LIFE IS A STAgETrinis being party-loving people who love fashion and

dance, the clubs in the capital are always buzzing, and almost every week a chutney fest is held somewhere

in Central or a reggae concert is staged in Port of Spain. The local dance scene spans regional folk dance (the most popu-lar being the indigenous limbo, bongo, and bele), ballet, jazz, modern, Indian classical, and contemporary styles. The many dance schools and semi-professional companies (Noble Douglas, Astor Johnson, Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle, Elle Inc, Cascade Festival Ballet) and regional folk perform-ing groups (Malick Folk Performers, Northwest Laventille Cultural Movement and Shiv Shakti Dance Company) stage shows year-round, while smaller troupes present experimen-tal multi-media productions. Larger companies often put on short annual seasons at Queen’s Hall. Sonja Dumas, Makeda Thomas and Dave Williams are known for their experimental modern style, while the Nrityanjali Theatre focuses on Indian classical dance.

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Choreographer and dancer Dave Williams in his iconic performance ‘Scan’ (2009).


Leading designers take part in Trinidad & Tobago Fashion Week in July, and present their own shows at the end of the year. Prominent local designers include Heather Jones, Meil-ing, Claudia Pegus, Anya Ayoung-Chee, Robert Young, Wa-dada Movement as well as Kathy and Karen Norman.

Local jewellery can be made of shells and seeds strung together or gems and precious metals. Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Rachel Ross, Jasmine Thomas-Girvan and Janice Der-rick are all known for their handcrafted jewellery.

Many visual and performing artists pass through Alice Yard in Woodbrook and a lot of experimental theatre and exhibitions are staged here. You can catch a glimpse of con-temporary artists’ work at the Art Society of Trinidad and To-bago and the art galleries in Port of Spain. Queen’s Hall is the leading venue for theatre, music and dance performances. To get a taste of Trinidad’s musical and lyrical talent, check out performances by Freetown Collective, Gillian Moor, Orange Sky, jointpop, and a slew of reggae artistes, including Marlon Asher (Ganja Farmer) and Prophet Benjamin.

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The country’s first – and for many years, only – concert hall was built in 1959, and remains one of the main venues for the performing arts.


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‘In Search of Forever’ (acrylic, aerosol and Indian ink) by Wendell McShine, one of T&T’s leading contemporary artists.


beaches

We do a different kind of beach here. Not for us the calm, placid pond in baby-blue. Uh-uh. Our waters are a little livelier. With few reefs, the waters off

the North Coast can kick up some rather playful waves (surf-ers like Toco, especially). It’s not unknown for a bikini-wearing bather to lose their top to pummelling surf. Maracas Bay, especially, is beloved by locals for its sprightly waves, misty mountains and food stalls. Great for jumping, ducking, body-surfing and boogy-boarding, Maracas is usually a refreshing workout that guarantees you – and the kids – a good night’s sleep.

Las Cuevas, just a few miles further along the North Coast from Maracas, runs a very close second to Maracas for the title of best beach in Trinidad. This long, looping bay is usu-ally calmer than Maracas, with crystal-clear water and gentle waves. Small caves, white sand and flowering trees make Las Cuevas perfect for a lazy day spent contemplating the beauty of the universe.

Other notable beaches include Macqueripe Bay, in the Chaguaramas National Park, which is usually bursting at the seams with families from the west, as well as all over the country, who come to try the ziplines; Blanchisseusse, which has a wild and rugged shoreline; Vessigny, down in the south; and Mayaro, the second longest stretch of beach in the world, where you will find tonnes of chip-chip, a tiny clam that makes a pretty mean cocktail.

The other side of Trinidad

bEACHES


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La Fillette beach on the North Coast is well known for its 100 steps leading down to the sand. The exercise is worth it!

hometowns


Beaches Maracas bay Sunbathing, swimming, occasional surfing, (paid) parking, gas station, food stalls, lifeguards, toilet/shower facilities (nominal fee).

blanchisseuse Surfing, hiking, bird watching, parking (roadside), turtle watching, camping.

Mayaro Lifeguards, kite surfing, sunbathing, camp-ing, swimming (with caution)

grand RiviereSurfing, turtle watching

Macqueripe Zip lining, swimming (with caution), bathroom/changing rooms (nominal fee), (paid) car park, snorkelling, children’s play park

Tyrico Lifeguards, surfing, camping.

Las Cuevas Swimming, sunbathing, camping, snack bar, showers/toilets (nominal fee), car park (free), lifeguards

Manzanilla Swimming, camping, running, lifeguards.

The sight of dozens of Leatherback turtles lumbering up the beach at Grande Riviere is definitely something to write home about.


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granville beach Camping, kayaking, paved parking lot, toilet facilities, bathing

Columbus bay Bathing

Cedros bay Bathing, Biking, kayaking

Quinam bayBathing, camping, lifeguards, fishing.

Vessigny beachCar park, snack bar, camp grounds, picnic tables, changing rooms with showers and toilets, lifeguards.

Matura Turtle nesting, camping

Paria Swimming, hiking, mountain biking, camping

Saline/ Sally bay Camping

Salybia Surfing, bathing, camping, lifeguards

Sans Souci Surfing, turtle-nesting (sometimes)


eco-adventures

Trinidad is known to wildlife experts and enthusiasts for the sheer mind-boggling number of animal species and habitats crowded together on one small island just 50

miles long by 37 miles wide. Having once been part of South America, Trinidad has evolved both continental and island life forms: 108 native mammals (57 of which are bats), 460 birds, 55 reptiles, 25 amphibians, and 620 butterflies, as well as over 2,500 species of flowering plants (700 of which are orchids), 370 species of tree and 300 types of ferns. Nowhere else in the West Indies can match this level of diversity – and few areas of comparable size anywhere in the tropical Americas.

ECO-ADVENTuRESfrom tiny birds to giant turtles

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Trinidad’s Amerindian name is Iere, which means ‘Land of the Hummingbird’. Seventeen species of this amazing little acrobat can be found here, including the Copper-rumped hummingbird.


Trinidad and Tobago are on most birders’ bucket list. From the air the islands are just huge nesting sites. The sheer volume of birds makes the air traffic almost as intense

as on the ground. The average tally for birders is usually 150 unique birds, topping most other destinations in the region by 30 easily. You can view the complete checklist of the 474 spe-cies observed by the Trinidad and Tobago Rare Bird Commit-tee (TTRBC) by visiting www.rbc.ttfnc.org/trinilist.pdf.

HEAVENfor bird watchers

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Purple reigns: Birders adore the stunning plumage of the purple honeycreeper, which often comes to perch on the porch at Yerette.


Asa Wright Nature Centre

Forty species before breakfast. And that’s just from the veranda. The early birder can catch sight of doz-

ens of the 166 species spotted at this vast nature reserve. At dawn they come in the hundreds – hummingbirds, bananaquits and tanagers – all within touching distance!

You can also see a Crested Oropen-dola colony near the main house, and Ornate Hawk-eagles and Channel-billed Toucans often perch near the veranda.

You can take guided tours of the rain-forest and explore nature trails where the White-bearded Manakin and Golden-headed Manakin can be spotted and the bell-like “bong” of the Bearded Bellbird is heard continuously.

Take a dip in a plunge pool, sample local cuisine at the restaurant, or pick up a sou-

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venir of Trinidad’s natural history in the gift shop. The veranda offers fantastic views down the Arima Valley.

A breeding colony of the nocturnal oil-bird or guacharo in Dunston Cave is per-haps the most easily accessible colony of these rare only nocturnal, fruit-eating birds to be found anywhere. The oilbird is found only in the northern region of South Amer-ica and Trinidad. It roosts or nests in caves during the day, and at night forages in the forest.

Asa Wright Nature Centre is Trinidad’s foremost conservation area, spanning 1,500 acres in the Arima and Aripo Valleys of the Northern Range. Its eco-lodge, restaurant and reception are located on a former cocoa-coffee-citrus plantation, which has been partly reclaimed by secondary forest.

An oilbird chick emerges from its shell as its mother looks on. A protected colony of 200 pairs of this rarely seen nocturnal bird can be found at Asa Wright Nature Centre.


Forest

One of the most accessible forest tours is at the Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Proj-ect in St Ann’s. You can trek up hills, explore the

forest, take a dip in a river, and learn about this model eco-project and the many gifts that Mother Nature has bestowed on Trinidad. Founder Akilah Jaramogi, a descendant of the Merikins (runaway slaves who fought for Britain and were given lands in the deep south of the island), makes dramatic jewellery from seeds, beads and other forest materials. www.facebook.com/facrp

Pax guest House

Just minutes away from the University of the West In-dies in St Augustine, Pax Guest House sits perched 800 feet above sea level at the Mount St Benedict

monastery. About 600 acres of forest can be explored via trails. The guesthouse is an easily accessible place to spot many species of birds. www.paxguesthouse.com

Bees and butterflies abound in this land where flowers bloom year-round and the supply of nectar is plentiful.

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This is a chance to sit and have tea surround-ed by dozens of hum-

mingbirds. The Fergusons allow visitors to take tours of their garden, where 13 species of hummingbirds have been photographed, along with dozens of other birds. Images of the birds adorn their living room, taken by Theo. You can choose from three “tours” – one at 8am, the second at 11am, and the last at 3pm. Lo-cal cuisine is served and all juices and meals made from local ingredients so visitors can sample sorrel or guava juice with their provisions and stewed chicken. Tel. 373-1379


Lopinot

Nestled in the foot-hills of the Northern Range, just 20 min-

utes from the Eastern Main Road in Arouca, is the histor-ic and serene village of Lopi-not. The lush surrounding hillsides are home to hun-dreds of birds and wildlife. A river runs parallel to the road leading to the village, with dozens of picturesque spots for a dip, a lime, some romance or yoga. A natural swimming pool forms just below the museum, a popular spot for children to splash in the cool water and observe the millions of baby tadpoles on the water’s edge.

There’s also the added thrill of the place possibly being haunted by the 19th century French cocoa planter after whom the village is named. After a visit in 2011, Ghost Hunters International and SYFY Channel in the US re-ported that they had found more evidence of paranormal activity there than anywhere else in the world.

The village is also well-known for its pas-

Tip: Book lunch or dinner at Café Mariposa, opposite the playing field in Lopinot. This open-air family restaurant (and bed-and-breakfast) cooks lovely Spanish Creole dishes made with fresh organic herbs from their own garden. The parang-singing family’s speciality is home-made tortillas, salsas and chutneys; and home-made ice-cream and sorbets. Cocoa comes in all forms – hot chocolate, cocoa ice cream, sorbets, gluten-free cocoa cake, 70 percent dark chocolate bars, cocoa-infused bread pudding… even a cocoa panyol pork and chilli con carne! www.mariposalopinot.com

telles and parang. The residents are an in-triguing mix of Amerindian, Spanish, French, African and East Indian heritage, and tend to be farmers. People also speak Spanish and French patois here.

For further thrills, explore the caves 2km north-east of Lopinot.

Walk through the grounds and admire the trees towering overhead. This is a snap-shot of life as it was 200 years ago in Trini-dad. At the small museum you will find tools and utensils from the 19th century. A clay oven and a cocoa house remain, legacies of the era when cocoa was king in the island.

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Cocoa pods grow directly from the tree trunk and branches. They ripen at various times so can be harvested year-round. Trinidad produces some of the best cocoa in the world.


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The Lopinot historical site is the main house of what was once a cocoa estate owned by a Frenchman.

The wooden house sits nestled in beautiful gardens, surrounded by lush hills, with a lovely river nearby.


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Like a quiet cathedral, the Caroni Bird Sanctuary is a protected haven for egrets and other swamp birds.


Thanks to a collaboration with the Cincinnati Zoo in Ohio, dozens of blue and gold macaws have been re-introduced into the Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary in the Nariva Swamp.

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The Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust’s focus is en-dangered wetland birds – breeding and returning them to their natural habi-tat. Located on the sprawl-ing estate of the Petrotrin oil refinery, near San Fernando, it covers 72 hectares of land and includes two lakes and trails, which offer great bird-watching opportunities. A

small museum hosts Amerindian artefacts. www.papwildfowltrust.org

At the summit of Mt Tamana, the Central Range’s highest point, you have some of the best views in Trinidad, with forest stretch-ing as far as the eye can see. Every evening, around sunset, up to a million bats fly out of the cave – a heart-stopping but exciting sight.

The Nariva Swamp & Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary is an amazing experience for the entire family. Boys, especially, will love

The Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary, a few miles southeast of Port of Spain, is famous for the flocks of bril-liant scarlet ibis that return at dusk. Once on the water, you feel as if you’ve entered an-other world. Afternoon boat tours (from 4pm) take you deep into the eerie quiet of the swamp, gliding through a vast, towering cathedral of mangrove roots. The sight of hundreds of scarlet ibis flying overhead and landing in the branches of trees is one you will never forget. If you want to take in the swamp at your own pace, you can hire a kayak. It’s not advisable to bring children under age three, since two hours in a boat may be too much for a tod-dler to handle. You can buy tickets there, or call one of the operators to pick you up. It’s cheaper to buy it at the site but you will need a car to get there, since it’s off the highway. You can hire a driver to take you there. Ask the hotel front desk if they know anyone.

Daniel SolomonChairman

Joycelin HargreavesChief Executive Officer

Committed to its vision of making the Chaguaramas Peninsula the premier provider of the ultimate customer experience, the Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) is ensuring the Peninsula’s diverse ecology, its natural resources as well as its geographical features all come together to make Chaguaramas a destination that exceeds expectations.

The Master Plan for the Peninsula

serves as a vital tool for articulating the region’s social and economic thrust as well as serves as a medium for accelerating its tourism and investment potential.

This is an especially exciting time at the CDA. Phase 2(A) of the Chaguaramas Boardwalk presents an array of projects designed to attract investment opportunities locally, regionally and internationally.

These projects will transform Chaguaramas into one of the most attractive and demanded commercial, entertainment and recreational hotspots in the Caribbean.The launch of the exciting and adventurous Zipline, Canopy Tours and the Water Taxi Service to Chaguaramas also provides

unique opportunities to enhance our visitors’ experience.

Chaguaramas has all this potential and more, and in recognition of this, we have created a road map for success to make Chaguaramas…Somewhere close to Magic!

Committed to the New Vision of Chaguaramas.

Tip: Wear jeans and long sleeves, and as much in-sect repellent as you can tote. In the rainy season, a large umbrella or rain-coat helps. If you have binoculars, bring them, your best camera and a zoom lens.


kayaking through the waters of the swamp. As you glide along, you will see and hear different kinds of monkeys, in-cluding red howler and white-fronted capuchin monkeys. This is also home to several endangered species of birds and mammals, including red-bellied macaws, owls and mana-tees. You may spot agoutis, tegus, Cascadura (armoured catfish) and caimans (small crocodiles).

At the Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary you will find channel-billed toucans and tree-climbing porcupine. In the evening, the island’s beloved scarlet ibis returns to its roost in the trees among the mangroves. You will need a tour guide and permit to explore the swamp. You can arrange a tour by kayak, boat or (in the dry months) on foot. www.caribbeandiscoverytours.com

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The Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary is a haven for the red howler monkey as well.


Leatherbacks are the largest turtles on earth. Some can reach up to seven feet long and weigh more than 2,000

pounds. These reptiles can dive to depths of 4,200 feet – deeper than any other turtle – and can stay down for up to 85 minutes. They can live up to 45 years. Once prevalent in every ocean except the Arctic and Antarc-tic, the leatherback population has declined dramatically in many parts of the world.

Female hatchlings that make it to the sea will roam the oceans until they reach sexual maturity. Then they return to the same nest-

A giant among us – the endangered

LEATHERbACking areas to produce their own offspring. Males spend the rest of their lives at sea.

Trinidad and Tobago are two of the world’s most important turtle nesting grounds, and not only for the endangered leatherbacks. Hawksbill, green turtles and other species all come up on our shores to nest from March to September.

Trinidad’s Grande Rivière, the second larg-est leatherback nesting site in the world, and Matura are well-known and protected beach-es. In Tobago, turtles frequent the beaches of the Leeward coast, especially Stonehaven

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Trinidad’s east coast is one of the most important leatherback turtle nesting sights in the world. During peak season up to 300

nesting leatherbacks have been spotted in a single night at Grande Riviere. They can also be seen nesting in Tobago.


and Courland (or Turtle) beaches. Access to nesting beaches is restricted to prevent poaching and to allow the turtles to nest undisturbed. Tour operators can arrange the necessary permits.

You can also choose to stay overnight at a nearby hotel. The front desk there can arrange your permit. It’s best to go with a guide, who can explain the nesting process. Do not touch or disturb the turtles. Lights, noise and activity tend to disorient both turtles and hatchlings. Try to be quiet and unobtrusive, and do not use flashlights or flash photography. Do not try to pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to the sea. Please do not drive on nesting beaches; the weight of the vehicle can crush eggs buried in the sand.

The Turtle Village Trust is the umbrella body for the is-lands’ leading turtle conservation groups: Nature Seekers; the Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association; the Matura to Matelot (M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle Conservation Group; and SOS (Save our Sea Turtles) Tobago. www.turtlevillagetrust.org

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That miraculous moment when a baby turtle emerges from its shell and begins the long, hazardous walk to the sea.


Aripo Savannas

The Aripo Savannas Scientific Reserve is home to thousands of protected species of plant and animal life which

can only be found in Trinidad. It is the island’s last relatively untouched savanna ecosystem – a unique expanse of tranquil, open space fringed by moriche palms and marsh forest. Located in east-central Trinidad, the reserve ecosystem is unique due to the array of habi-tats (not seen elsewhere in the country) and the high density of rare, threatened and en-demic species. It is one of the most intensive-ly studied areas in the tropics. You will need a permit to enter the reserve, which can be obtained from the National Parks Section of the Forestry Division. Open Monday to Fri-day, except public holidays, 7am to 4pm. Tel. 645-1203.

Chaguaramas National Park

You could easily spend weeks explor-ing this end of the island, the depar-ture point for “down de islands”. The

national park is constantly adding new at-tractions, the latest being a series of ziplines set high in the trees above Macqueripe Bay. Scream your way down the seven exhilarat-ing lines and rope bridges in 45 minutes of heart-stopping fun.

Open six days a week (Tuesday to Sun-day) 10am-4pm on week days and 10am- 4:30pm on weekends and public holidays. No bookings required. Tel. 381-8543. www.facebook.com/Trinidadzipitt

You can also kayak in Williams Bay, star-gaze, hike to a waterfall, explore trails, hash, hang out on the boardwalk, swim in Mac-queripe Bay, jump off the rocks there, fish, go mountain biking, horseback riding, rappel down a cliff or play a game of golf. The Cha-guaramas Military and Aerospace Museum is the largest museum of its kind in the Carib-bean. Children will really love this because they can interact with the artefacts and piec-es around the museum (while supervised of course). And that’s just on the mainland. c

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A canopy walk between the ziplines at Macqueripe in Chaguaramas


gasparee Cave

You can take a powered boat to Gas-paree Island from Island Home Own-ers marina. This is actually a coral reef

pushed up out of the sea. Over the millen-nia water has eroded the limestone and sev-eral cave systems have formed deep within the island. The largest is known as Gasparee Cave, which has dramatic cave formations of stalactites, stalagmites, earth pillars and a massive blue-green pool in the middle of the cave, lit by sunlight from a hole above.

Hiking

Chaguaramas is a hiker’s paradise. It’s an ideal place to get acquainted with the terrain and wildlife of Trinidad.

You can take it easy and stroll through the Bamboo Cathedral, then up to the old US tracking station. With waterfalls and so much forest cover, the truly intrepid can get their groove on too. The best time to hike is in the dry season – January to June. Be careful in the rainy season (July to December), even if you go with a guide, as rivers can quickly be-come swollen and dangerous.

Chaguaramas Development Authority: www.chagdev.comChaguaramas Golf Club: www.chaggolfclub.comChaguaramas Military History and Aerospace Museum:www.militarymuseum.com

Caution when hiking Always carry water, food and first aid sup-plies, and some dry clothes, in a water-proof bag. Black clothing is the hottest, and attracts mosquitoes. Take a guide who is registered with the Incoming Tour Operators Association, or someone with thorough local knowledge of the route. Wear long trousers for bush treks, and comfortable, waterproof shoes with good grip – no open-toed sandals. Stay on the track (especially during hunting season). Check the weather forecast be-fore setting out – flash flooding can hap-pen during the rainy season, and tree falls and landslides quickly change a fa-miliar landscape. And please, don’t leave any litter behind.

There are plenty of places to hike in Chaguaramas but be careful in the rainy season as rivers can

quickly become swollen and dangerous.

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The serene silence of the Bamboo Cathedral in the Chaguaramas National Park is broken only by

the cries of howler monkeys and green parrots that inhabit the forest canopy.


There’s great scope for hiking in both islands, especially in the Northern Range, and several groups do regu-

lar trips, including guided weekend hikes to caves and waterfalls. Popular hikes include the Maracas Waterfall in St Joseph (easy), Paria Bay on the north coast with its nearby waterfall, the Rio Seco waterfall near Salybia, and Trinidad’s second highest mountain, El Tucuche. Camping is allowed at Madamas Bay, also on the north coast, which is only ac-cessible by boat or on foot (about five hours from Blanchisseuse). Other popular areas: Brasso Seco, Tacarib, the Heights of Guanapo and the Guanapo Gorge, La Laja and Som-basson waterfalls, Aripo Caves. But always go with a guide or a hiking organisation. Do not take risks, and do not guess the route.

Other hiking

ADVENTuRESTrinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association: www.ttitoa.comCaribbean Hiking Adventures: www.caribbeanhikingadventures.comHikers Inc: www.hikersinctt.comIsland Hikers: www.islandhikers.comNature Trekking: www.naturetrektnt.comOutdoors Trinidad: www.trinioutdoors.comTrinbago Backpackers Hikers Club www.trinbagobackpackers.webs.comTrinidad & Tobago Hikeseekers www.hikeseekers.com

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The Rio Seco waterfall is one of many deliciously cool watering holes in the country. The height from the top of the waterfall to the pool is about 20 feet.


adrenaline rush

Let’s take it from

THE TOP

Paramin

This traditional mountain farming community over-looking Maraval, on the outskirts of Port of Spain, has the most stunning views on the island. The high-

est point, Morne La Vigie, is over 2,000 feet. The people here – descendants of runaway African slaves, French Cre-oles from Martinique, Guadeloupe, Grenada, Dominica, and St Lucia, ‘cocoa Panyols’ from Venezuela and Amerindians – are famous for their luxuriant seasoning herbs, pimentos, vegetables and ground provisions. They speak a French Creole or patois that is unique to Trinidad, though similar to St Lucian kweyol, and still perform their crèche and pa-rang music during the Christmas season. On Carnival Sun-day, mass is said in patois at the Catholic Church, whose stained-glass windows offer commanding views of the sur-rounding mountains. Tip: Tours can be arranged through a tour operator, or you can hire a jeep on Saut D’eau Road in Maraval.

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Fort george

The wind whistles and sings up here, and small birds have a hard time staying on their flight path. At more than 1,000 feet above the city, this beautifully main-

tained 19th century military installation in the hills overlook-ing the capital comes with a breath-taking panoramic view of the entire north-western peninsula, including the Diego Mar-tin Valley and the Gulf of Paria. Look for rainbows splashed across the nearby foothills after a bit of rain. Children (pref-erably over seven) will have a fun time looking through the telescopes, exploring the terraced grounds and never-used “lock-up”, and riding the cannons. It tops the list as a sunset-watching location.

The cannons at Fort George stand guard over the most breathtaking view of the Gulf of Paria and north-western peninsula of Trinidad.

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For the adrenaline junkie

Trinidad’s forests, cliffs, rivers, waterfalls and seas will get your blood pumping and pulse racing easily. Tour operator

Adventure Seekers takes you hiking, hashing, rappelling, surfing, wakeboarding, scuba div-ing, ziplining, rock climbing and paragliding. If you just want to experience the serenity of nature, they can take you camping, turtle-watching, horseback riding or sailing. www.facebook.com/adventureseekerstt

Martial arts

Private dojos, which welcome drop-in visitors, teach kung fu, karate, bushido, aikido, judo, jujitsu, tai chi,

kickboxing, krav maga and WuShu. An indig-enous form of karate called Don Jitsu Ryu was developed by Professor Don Jacob. He holds a 9th Degree Black Belt and the title (Hanshi) Grandmaster is taught at his Purple Dragon dojos across T&T, the Caribbean, the USA, Canada, Europe and Australia. www.purple-dragon.com

booty Camp

In the land of the limbo, fitness workouts can come with a rather spicy twist. At women-only studio, Provocative Fitness,

which is located on the aptly named Fitt Street in Woodbook, founder and instructor JC Blandin brings her formidable background as a trained dancer (folk, modern, ballet and yes, limbo) and national aerobics champion to the fitness industry with an eclectic menu of workouts that both tone up and titillate. In addition to gruelling “boot camp” sessions, Provocative Fitness makes getting fit freak-ishly fun with classes in “winercise”, zumba, pole dancing, and aerial silks and hoops.www.provocative-fitness.com

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Take a twirl on the wild side with a class in aerial hoops at Provocative Fitness studio.


detox & de-stress

All the hard work and playing that Trinis do takes a toll on the body – and we do like to look good. The answer? Spas. Over the last decade dozens have popped up across the country, offering everything from reiki and aromatherapy to lymphatic drainage (this

detoxes the lymph nodes) massages and Shirodhara, a form of Ayurvedic medicine. Many do both beauty and massage treatments, so you can be pampered literally from head to toe – hair, eyebrows, facial, deep-tissue massage, a little laser on the thread veins, and a pedicure. Some spas even throw in complimentary feet and hand massages, herbal teas, wine, tea and light refreshments.

PAMPERINgfrom the pros

Spa Esencia, Hyatt Regency Trinidad

Luxurious and private are the essence of this spa, where each suite has its own shower and toilet. Indigenous in-

gredients are used in the treatments which have carnival-themed names, such as the Di-manche Gras massage, which combines aro-matherapy, warm stone, Swedish and deep tissue massage. The only spa in the Carib-bean that offers the Intraceuticals Infusion Treatment, Spa Esencia offers 10 body treat-ments, 15 massages and nine types of facial – as well as a combo package. Feed your skin cocoa, coconut oil, sugar cane, vanilla, nut-meg or cinnamon with one of their delicious treatments. Booking a treatment also gives you access to the fully equipped gym and the infinity-edge pool for the day. Tips: Get to the spa early as they serve delicious herbal teas prior to treatments. And don’t forget to take your room key as this is the only way to work the elevator.www.trinidad.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/

The Face and body Clinic

A trailblazer in the field of beauty and spa treatments, The Face and Body Clinic is a one-stop shop for

de-stressing (the spa); giving the old ego a boost (beauty treatments); and turning back the clock (laser therapy or a little ‘lipo’). The “lipo” is not the traditional liposuction, but an alternative that uses ultrasound and encour-ages lipolysis (fat depletion). You will find just about every treatment you can imagine at The Face and Body Clinic’s four branches (Port of Spain, San Fernando, Tobago and Charlieville): eye lift treatments, facials, bleaching, electrolysis, waxing, hair reduc-tion, skin resurfacing for wrinkle reduction and/or treatment of acne scars; and removal of age spots, moles, spider veins and tattoos. You can, literally, walk out of there a different person. www.faceandbodyclinic.com


And breathe….

As you can imagine, living in a mini-metropolis like Trinidad can take a lot of your energy. And what

with the island’s economy racing full steam ahead, more and more Trinidadians are turn-ing to yoga and meditation to stay calm and relaxed. This Eastern practice is quietly drawing in believers and quite a few stu-dios (hatha, moksha, ashtanga) have mush-roomed around the capital. The Raja Yoga Centre offers free courses in anger manage-ment, stress-free living, positive thinking and meditation as a service to the community at five locations across Trinidad (Port of Spain, Chaguanas, San Fernando, Sangre Grande and St Augustine). Its San Fernando branch is particularly picturesque, perched atop a hill overlooking the city. Feel free to drop in.www.brahmakumaris.org/trinidad sU

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In between Trinidad’s many modern build-ings and ultra-contemporary homes, ar-chitectural gems peep out, legacies of

Trinidad’s many influences – religious, social and economic. Among the most beautiful and appealing are the signature gingerbread hous-es, many Catholic churches and cathedrals, classic Islamic mosques, Hindu mandirs, 18th century mansions built by cocoa kings, former sugar plantation homes and museums, such as the National Museum and Art Gallery, which has a German Renaissance style.

Heritage and

ARCHITECTuREThe Magnificent Seven, a row of grand

old houses on the western side of the Queen’s Park Savannah, were built between 1900 and 1910. The most southerly is Queen’s Royal College, whose most famous alumna is Nobel Prize-winning writer (and quintes-sential Trini) VS Naipaul. Hayes Court was the residence of the Anglican Bishop of Trinidad and Tobago and is still the property of the Anglican Church. It is currently under renova-tion. Next door is Mille Fleurs, which was built in 1904 for the Prada family. It was bought by


our heritage

the government in 1979, but has never been used, like many structures in this wealthy na-tion, and is now falling apart.

Roomor, originally known as Ambard’s House, was commissioned by a cocoa mer-chant. It is the only one of the seven still functioning as a private residence. Just three doors down from the Anglican bishop’s resi-dence is the home of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Port of Spain. The building has been renovated and is used by the church.

Whitehall was, until 2008, the office of

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Ambard’s House, or Roomor, as it is popularly known, is the only one of ‘the Magnificent Seven’ to remain as a private residence. Constructed in 1904 as a family residence, it was designed by a French architect and most of the materials were imported – the marble from Italy, the tiles from France and the cast-iron elements from Scotland.

the Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago since shortly after independence. It is still be-ing renovated and restored with plans for it to be used as a Protocol House for visiting dignitaries.

The northernmost of the seven, Stollmey-er’s Castle, was originally named Killarney. It remained the property of the Stollmeyer family until the 1970s and was eventually bought by the government in 1979. It too was scheduled for conversion to a Protocol House in 2008, along with White Hall; however, the work is still ongoing.

History buffs will find cannons and other relics scattered throughout the island. The gingerbread house has delicate wooden filigree, jalousie windows, peaked roofs, dor-mers and a gallery. George Brown, a Scot-tish architect who came to Trinidad in 1880, created the gingerbread style, which can be found across the island, in remnants of stately mansions once owned by planters and mer-chants, as well as the humble cottages of the working class.

Quite a few gingerbread houses can be seen in Woodbrook, the western suburb of Port of Spain that is now the liming hub of the country. A living museum of architecture, this former sugar estate became a respect-able suburb for a new emerging middle class in the early 1900s.

Belmont, to the east of the Queen’s Park Savannah, has also held on to some of its beautiful old homes, which are in remarkably good condition.


African Legacy Tours

These inspiring and educational tours take in sites of African heritage across the two islands. Africans were

first brought here in 1606 to work on tobac-co plantations. However, most came in 1783 with the plantation owners of islands that the French had claimed. Emancipation was proclaimed at the Treasury Building in Port of Spain by Governor George Hill on August 1, 1834; the freedom for which the Africans had ceaselessly fought was finally achieved four years later, on August 1, 1838.

The tours celebrate the rich legacy of the Africans, as well as the contributions of their descendants, to the heritage and culture of Trinidad and Tobago. You will learn about their resistance, Maroonage, Pan African-ism and links to continental Africa, as well

as their spirituality and ancient legends, new discoveries and modern heroes.Tel. 461-8637

Emperor Valley Zoo

Tigers, giraffes, lions, macaws… and lots of snakes. Kids will love it. The young giraffes are adorable and the

new lions and tigers are big draws. Get a good look at some of the many species of monkeys, parrots, macaws, snakes, fish and reptiles that inhabit the forests of this land. Open every day exept Christmas and car-nival. Admission: Adults TT$30, children TT$15, 9am–6pm. www.zstt.org

Melman and Mandela are new and very popular additions to the Emperor Valley Zoo in Port of Spain.

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Flamingoes frolic at the Emperor Valley Zoo, which was named after the Blue Emperor butterfly.

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The Blue Emperor butterfly (Morpho peleides) is one of more than 600 species found in T&T – an astronomical number given the tiny size of the country.


Angostura Museum

And Barcant Butterfly Collection, East-ern Main Road/Trinity Avenue, Laven-tille. View the famous collection of

Trinidad’s colourful butterflies, including the beautiful Blue Emperor. Hear the history of the company’s unique bitters, tour the manufac-turing room, bottling plant and distillery and sample some of Angostura’s much-loved rums. Tours begin at 9.30am and 1.30pm, Monday to Friday and last approximately two hours; ad-vance booking required.www.facebook.com/AngosturaMuseumAnd-BarcantButterflyCollection

uWI Zoology Museum

Located at the Natural Sciences Build-ing, UWI, St Augustine The University of the West Indies Zoology Museum is

the largest and most significant collection of zoological specimens in Trinidad & Tobago. Tours of the Zoology Museum can be booked for any time between 8am and 4 pm, Monday to Friday. Admission: free. www.facebook.com/uwizoologymuseum

The Barcant Butterfly collection at the Angostura museum (makers of the famous bitters and rums) comprises more

than 5,000 specimens and is the largest in the region.

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exploring

HEADINg EASTValencia Eco-Resort

This sprawling retreat covers ten acres of land in Valencia and is a wonderful escape in the east for the whole fam-

ily. Attractions include a butterfly and bird sanctuary, a river, a mini-zoo, greenhouses, and fishing in a tilapia pond. Rods and lines are provided; you have to walk with bait. You can keep what you catch – perhaps even curry or fry it up in one of the outdoor cook-ing sheds, which come equipped with a gas tank, ring stove, table, chairs, sink, water and electricity. Wander among the 95 varieties of trees, many laden with fruit. Kids won’t get bored; not with a basketball court, football field, cricket pitch and a pool all on site. The resort uses solar water heating, composting and 100% recycling. www.facebook.com/valencia.ecoresort

CENTRALLa Vega, gran Couva

This 250-acre estate is a lovely, relaxing way to explore Trinidad’s natural trea-sures. Just 15 minutes off the Solomon

Hochoy Highway, La Vega is a garden centre, plant nursery and nature park combined. At the garden centre you will find ornamentals, fruit trees, herbs and vegetables, most of which are produced here in a greenhouse on the estate. The owner is a fruit aficionado and cultivates trees from around the world, in-cluding rambutan, durian, longan, mangoes, sugar apples, giant peewah and dongs, and sweet passion fruit. The ornamental collec-tion includes Thai bougainvilleas, dwarf ixo-ras, dwarf white frangipani (Plumeria pudica) and the yellow leaf duranta.

You can find solitude amid the many trees and trails. Fish for tilapia with bamboo rods in ponds, take a ride on a pedal boat, ride the water slides or climb the jungle gym. You can take a tour of the greenhouses, orchards and fields and learn about the plants and trees of Trinidad. A resident chef is on hand to whip up Thai curries and grilled sandwiches. Try the premium homemade ice creams or sor-bets made with local flavours, such as silk fig and peanut and prune, for dessert.

If you wish to stay overnight, a luxurious two-storey thatched hut with its own patio and bathroom is available, as well as catered meals.

Open daily, 9am to 5pm, including Sun-days and public holidays, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day. Admis-sion: TT$25, children under 13, TT$15. www.lavegaestate.com

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A cool oasis of green, La Vega Estate in Gran Couva is a wonderful place to relax and unwind, surrounded

by serenity and beautiful scenery. You can also go fishing or pedal boating, or explore one of the nature trails.


DOWN SOuTHSan Fernando Hill

Once a sacred Amerindian site known as Naparima, the San Fernando Hill stands like a monument, a green

one, in the midst of all the industry and con-struction of south Trinidad. From the top you can see why San Fernando seems even more crowded and busier than Port of Spain: this is the commercial hub of the energy indus-tries in the south-west of the island (you can see the Pointe-à-Pierre refinery to the north), on which much of T&T’s enormous wealth is based. The town has spread in all directions and up here, parakeets and other birds have

found shelter in the trees. Visitor facilities, lookouts, picnic huts and a children’s play park make this a lovely location for a family outing, and it is one of the main event venues in the city.

To get to San Fernando Hill, leave the highway at the San Fernando exit, turn left onto the San Fernando bypass, and at its crest take a right turn; almost immediately Circular Road branches off to the right, and by Soong’s Great Wall restaurant a small sign-posted road on the left climbs the hill almost to the summit.

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San Fernando Hill was known as Naparima to the First Peoples of Trinidad, who considered it a sacred place of worship. Indeed, the view from the top, overlooking a sheltered bay in the Gulf of Paria, can bring out your spiritual side. From here, you can see most of south and central Trinidad.


Vintage car museum

For more than 40 years San Fernando businessman Brij Maharaj has been collecting antique cars and restoring them. Among his collection are historically important

automobiles, including the oldest working vehicle in the coun-try – a 1918 Ford Model T Runabout. Many of his cars are the only examples of their kind locally; while two are believed to be the only ones in the world today. The museum also has a collection of antique motorcycles, bicycles and vintage auto-mobile collectibles.

Brij Maharaj Auto & Heritage Museum, 2 Hubert Rance Street, Vistabella. Open to the public once a month by ap-pointment. Admission: free. [email protected]

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At the Brij Maharaj Auto & Heritage Museum in San Fernando you will find

one of only four Chervolet Phaetons known to still exist in the world today,

part of a remarkable collection of antiques that includes the country’s

oldest working car, a Model T Ford, with a manufacture date circa 1917.


Ninety-five acres of pitch. One massive car park, some say. And well, basically that’s what the largest deposit of naturally occurring tar in the world looks like from

the surface. This “slow motion black hole” constantly pulls things into itself, and is said to have “feelers” stretching out-ward for several miles, veins of pitch stretching out from the main lake. It is over 350ft deep at the centre of the lake. A 40ft by 40ft hole refills within three days. Sir Walter Raleigh first used this pitch to seal his ship to prevent leaks. The tar has been actively mined for many years, and the asphalt col-lected has been used on roads and airport runways around the world.

Some parts are almost liquid and can be pulled up, like taffy. You will see small bubbling puddles and smell the gases that escape from within.

THE PITCH LAkE La BreaForget what it looks like – it’s what’s inside that matters

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The Pitch Lake is the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world. The lake, located in La Brea in the south of Trinidad, is 350ft deep and is

believed to be caused by the intersection of two faults through which oil from a deep deposit is forced up.


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The lighter elements in the oil evaporate, leaving behind the heavier asphalt. As far back as 1595

explorer Walter Raleigh used some of it to caulk his ship; more recently, it was exported to the US where

it was used to pave streets in New York City.


shopping

The San Antonio Green Market in Santa Cruz is a one-stop shop for just about everything: organic produce, fresh natural juices, curry crab and dumpling, shrimp,

corn soup and roast corn, Trinidad dark chocolate, muffins, flowers and plants, custom-designed jewellery, hair prod-ucts, craft, compost, tiles, garden accessories, photographs, honey, newspaper mesh, homemade greeting cards, Trinidad and Tobago puzzles, head massages, ducks and fish. Also, fun activities for children, live music (pan, parang), cooking demos, conversations on health, nutrition and bringing bal-ance back, specialty food gifts and condiments. www.face-book.com/GreenMarketSantaCruz

UpMarket, a monthly gathering of local artists, artisans, craftspeople, fashion and food is held at the Woodbrook Youth Centre in Port of Spain. www.facebook.com/UpMarketTT).

Online: www.trinidadTunes.com specialises in local music; www.TriniTrolley.com sells everything under the sun, including electronics, clothing, shoes, cosmetics, art and craft and toys; www.AhPiece.com carries a selection of local art, craft, food and fashion.

TO MARkET TO MARkET

Note: As in many other parts of the world, pi-racy is a thriving busi-ness, and does untold damage to local artists, musicians and writers. Please buy copyrighted material such as music and video from bona fide businesses, and avoid anything that looks as if it might have been bootlegged. And please avoid souvenirs made from endangered species or rare materials (like black coral). Thank you!


The San Antonio Green Market has become a wonderful, relaxing space for the health-conscious and eco-friendly Trini to shop for organic vegetables and fruits, and local art and craft.

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Wrought-iron sculptures by Elizabeth Pohlmann. www.wroughtironartglass.com


Clothing and fabrics

Nothing quite makes a statement about a place like its fashion. House of Jaipur is a brand adored by Ca-

ribbean women and now considered one of their own. Its collection of “ethnic-inspired resort wear”, as owner Dhisha Moorjani calls it, is much-loved and sought after across the region for its unique and colourful slant on casual glamour and elegance. Moorjani, a Trinidadian designer, is proud to clothe wom-en in these beautifully hand-embroidered and beaded pieces created by artisans in India who excel in this traditional art. A little black dress from Meiling is a must-have for every woman with taste... Other celebrated local designers include The Cloth, Claudia Pegus, Heather Jones, the Wadada Movement, and Anya Ayoung-Chee.

Indian fashion, accessories, fabrics, tex-tiles, home décor, and jewellery are very pop-ular and can be found at the numerous Indian stores in Aranjuez, Chaguanas, Tunapuna and Debe, as well as Indian expos dotted around the country (look for huge tents and signs).

If you’re looking for something special and unique, local jewellery designers cre-ate breathtaking hand-crafted jewellery in gold and precious stones, including Jasmine Girvan-Thomas, Janice Derrick, Rachel Ross, Gillian Bishop and Chris Anderson. Akilah Jaramogi produces ecological jewellery – dramatic polished necklaces, bracelets and earrings made from seeds and beads from the forest and natural materials. www.face-book.com/AkilahsJewelry

Made in

TRINIDADSouvenirs

Excellent City Centre in Port of Spain is considered the heart of downtown shopping, with everything you could

possibly need under one roof – from designer clothing and shoes, to phones, electronics and jewellery – plus a bakery and a food court. Here you will find everything for the home, in-cluding appliances, bathroom and bedroom items, toys, school supplies, children’s cloth-ing, books and souvenirs. You can also shop online at www.excellentstorestt.com.

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Colourful fabrics can be found at stores that specialise in Indian wear such as House of Jaipur.

Unique gifts


Rum ’n tings

House of Angostura’s specialty rum can be bought at large supermarkets and duty-free shops. Look out for local fruit wines,

our million and one home-made pepper sauces, chutneys and amchar (tamarind and mango). If you see someone selling bottles of home-made pepper sauce anywhere, buy it. Warning: The pepper sauce known as “mudder in law” is named after sharp-tongued mothers-in-law and considered lethal, so approach with due caution.

For unique leather craft, Frederick Street in Port of Spain is the place to find leather slippers, pouches and calabash handbags.

A steelpan

Nothing says Trinidad like a pan. It is our national instrument and a joy for any musician to get his hands on. The

tenor pan, or lead pan, carries the melody and-can play 29 notes over 2.5 octaves in the higher register, while the new G-Pan, invented by a University of the West Indies team, can play 37 over four octaves. If you are interested in pur-chasing a pan, contact: Pantrinibago, Port of Spain, Tel: 623-4486; Trinidad and Tobago Pan Instruments Company Ltd., Port of Spain, Tel: 799-1715; Lincoln Enterprises Ltd, Woodbrook, Tel. 683-8071.

books & magazines

Local fiction and non-fiction, and locally produced magazines, of which there are many, can be found at Paper Based at the

Hotel Normandie in St Ann’s, or the RIK and Ni-gel R Khan bookstore chains.


Some of the best cocoa in the world comes from Trinidad and Tobago. Trin-itario, which is indigenous to the is-

lands, is used by the French luxury chocolate manufacturer Valrhona in its single estate chocolates. It is one of the leading producers of gastronomic chocolate in the world and its products are used in high-end restaurants. Valrhona produces vintage chocolate made from beans of a single year’s harvest from a specific plantation.

The village of Gran Couva in Central Trini-dad is home to one of the island’s oldest plan-tations, San Antonio Estate, where the age-old cocoa variety of Trinitario is grown. The estate produces some of the rarest and most aro-matic beans on the planet. The fact that they are produced in limited quantities makes them all the more precious.

For a tour of the estate, which is the main collection point for cocoa grown by the Mont-serrat Cocoa Farmers Co-operative Society (their cocoa and chocolates can be bought). Tel. 679-9515. [email protected]

Ortinola Great HouseThe famous Cadbury Brothers of England entered into a deal with another English firm with vast property in Trinidad to supply cocoa from Ortinola Estate in the Maracas Valley, St Joseph, in the 1880s.

This magnificent estate covers nine acres of trees and undulating grassland, the perfect setting for many a wedding. The lush valley is home to the ubiquitous hummingbird and other stunners. The great house has been restored and is often used for family reunions, celebra-tions, retreats, and conferences. You can make reservations for afternoon tea on Sundays and stroll through the lovely grounds of the estate, beneath the shad-ow of the mountains. You can also go on a tour of the cocoa estate, which may in-clude a sample of local chocolate. www.ortinola.com

THE FINEST COCOA in the world

Cacique ChocolatesThis gourmet chocolate – fine dark, white, milk or sugar-free – is handcrafted and coupled with flavours like passion fruit, orange, caramel, guava and coco-nut. Truffles are also available. [email protected]


Cocobel chocolateCOCOBEL chocolate starts at Rancho Quemado Estate, located in the south of Trinidad, where the country’s world-famous fine Trinitario cocoa is harvested, fermented and dried in the sun.

At the Cocobel workshop, cocoa beans are transformed into chocolate through meticulous roasting, grinding and refining – each stage measured only by the chocolate maker’s senses. Then the magic ingredients are combined with the dark chocolate: freshly picked herbs and spices are blended into tropical fruit purées that capture the unique palette of quintessential Trinbagonian flavours, such as mango pepper, pineapple chow, guava cheese, sorrel, tonka bean and ponche a crème.www.cocobelchocolate.com

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accommodation

As befits the ‘Saudi Arabia of the Caribbean’, Trinidad’s hotels are among the best in the region for both busi-ness travellers and world leaders. As the host of two

world summits in 2009, the island’s major hotels accommo-dated hundreds of dignitaries and entourages with consum-mate ease.

As an energy giant, Trinidad is a frequent stop for oil ex-ecutives and energy experts. Our many conference centres are always in demand by corporations, churches and regional organisations. You can find clean, comfortable accommoda-tion to suit your budget at boutique hotels, guesthouses, inns and eco-retreats across the island.

Where to SPEND THE NIgHT

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With a prime location in the heart of downtown Port of Spain, Hyatt Regency Trinidad is the premiere hotel for any type of getaway. Spacious suites o�er spectacular gulf views, flat-screen televisions and our signature Hyatt Grand Bed, while our 9,000 square-foot locally inspired spa and rooftop infinity pool overlooking the gulf provide a luxurious retreat. World-class cuisine and deluxe facilities designed to accommodate weddings, events and parties of all sizes ensure guests will get the most out of their stay. For reservations, call 868 623 2222 or visit trinidad.hyatt.com.

Escape the ordinary. Discover Hyatt Regency Trinidad.

HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2014 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

HYATT REGENCY TRINIDAD1 Wrghtson Road, Port of Spain868 623 2222


SAN FERNANDO – the energy hub

Tradewinds

This landmark hotel in one of South’s classiest communi-ties is mere minutes away from the bustling city of San Fernando, restaurants, clubs and shopping malls as well

as San Fernando Hill, an exhilarating green escape above it all. Corporate travellers and investors will appreciate the elegant décor and wonderful ambience of this charming southern beauty. The service is remarkable and the food is excellent – the Caesar salad and the lobster have received kudos.

Long-term visitors especially begin to feel that the hotel is really their home. Nothing is too much trouble for the staff. One frequent flyer said he had never come across such a warm and inviting place to stay.

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Do business Trini style – invite associates over for a lime and order the Liming Menu! In the dry season the outdoor deck is the per-fect spot to take in a game on big screens. On weekends you can shake a leg to live music. The bar comes highly recommended as a great training ground for perfecting your lim-ing skills. Let out the stress of tight dead-lines or tough deals with some good old karaoke one evening.

Spacious rooms decorated in Carib-bean colours make you feel at home. Business travellers will appreciate the many services to make life so much easier – from wake-up calls to a doctor being on call. A business centre and meeting facilities are available, as well as complimentary coffee, laundry service, kitchen, massage, sauna, currency exchange

and room service. The gym is open every day; and car rental and tours to any part of the island can be arranged for you.

Also down south is Royal Hotel. A gi-ant samaan tree spreads its many arms in

welcome at this re-laxing oasis, where the staff are help-ful and friendly. The hotel’s central loca-tion makes getting into and out of the city easy – you can get a route taxi to downtown San Fer-nando just outside the gate for less

than US$1 one way. You can stroll down the road to food shops selling roti, doubles and other local delights. Just round the bend, up from the gas station, is the entrance to San Fernando Hill, a breath of fresh air and a re-warding spot for a bit of hiking and birding.

travellers will appreciate the elegant décor and

wonderful ambience of this charming southern beauty

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The suite that Fidel Castro stayed in dur-ing a regional summit is just one of the many talking points about the Hilton

Trinidad. The spellbinding view of the Queen’s Park Savannah from the Obama Terrace is another. For many years this was Trinidad’s finest hotel, the first port of call for business executives, and the obvious accommodation for visiting heads of state, touring cricketers (Shane Warne and Steve Waugh caused quite a stir by the pool a few times) and headline entertainers (reggae artiste Shaggy comes to mind immediately).

Set against the lush St Ann’s Hills, the Hil-ton’s outdoor attractions include squirrels and hummingbirds, lush bamboo and lots of trees. It is within walking distance of the Savannah, the Botanical Gardens and Queen’s Hall, if you

want to take in a play or dance performance.Known for being the “upside down” hotel,

the Hilton is built on a hill so you drive up to the top and enter the lobby, which is above most of the rooms. Be sure to ask for a view of the Savannah – at sunset, the view is spec-tacular.

Rooms are luxurious and tastefully deco-rated. For the tired traveller, it is heaven to come home to after a long flight. The ex-ecutive lounge is open 24 hours (breakfast, and light snacks in the evening). Runners and sports enthusiasts will love making a lap around the Savannah – the largest round-about in the world. Or play tennis on the courts. If it’s too hot out, the exercise room is great for a workout, with state-of-the-art cardio equipment and weights.

PORT OF SPAIN – the capital

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Step off the highway and into the quiet elegance of the Courtyard by Marriott. This stylish oasis is perfect for the busy executive – with large work desks and free high-speed internet access. Located near to downtown Port of Spain, the hotel is also perfectly poised next door to the MovieTowne Entertainment Com-plex which includes a multi-screen cinema, stores, restaurants and bars.

The Hasley Craw-ford National Stadi-um is just across the highway, so you may also be able to take in a football match, a karate tournament or a reg-gae concert. The Marriott’s conference rooms are ideally suited for business meetings, events or dinners. The service comes very highly recommended, and the staff regularly

receives rave reviews for warmth and help-fulness. The restaurant is also rated highly, with both the food and the service given two thumbs up. Ideally suited for executives and their families, the Marriott has a small store

where you can buy snacks, drinks and a few necessities. A microwave is avail-able if you need it (no extra cost). The fitness centre and the pool will ensure you don’t spend the entire day in the luxurious comfort of your room.

The rooms have views of the sea and the foothills of the Northern Range. And just a few minutes away are St James, “the hip strip”, and Fort George, which gives a whole new perspective of the island (from 1,000 ft up).

the courtyard by marriott is a stylish oasis, perfect

for the busy executive

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Business travellers love Kapok Hotel; as did the late Venezuelan President, Hugo Chavez, when he stayed here during the Fifth Summit of the Americas in 2009. This eight-storey hotel offers stunning views of the Queen’s Park Savannah, which is just around the corner, as is the Zoo, the Botanical Gar-dens and Ellerslie Plaza. The restaurant at the top, Tiki Village, has been named among the finest in the country – great quality of food and drinks. Rooms come with a mini fridge so you can keep water and juice chilled.


Hyatt Regency

Offering a superior level of service, the Hyatt Regency Trinidad is ide-ally located in the heart of Port of

Spain along the waterfront. This luxury hotel has 428 guestrooms and one of the largest conference facilities in the Caribbean.

Dining options include the Waterfront restaurant, the 24-hour Cinnamon Deli and Patisserie, the lobby bar and lounge, and a sushi bar. In addition, the hotel offers a state-of-the-art gym and a rooftop infinity pool and terrace with a poolside grill. www.trinidad.hyatt.com.A

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The Allamanda

For first-timers, The Allamanda is an in-troduction to the sheer warmth of Trini hospitality. The owner, June Edwards,

is always welcoming and takes good care of her guests. In the morning you may have fresh orange or fruit juice and coconut water and a large and delicious breakfast, including fresh fruit and a local delicacy – it could be doubles, pholourie, tomato choka, saheena or a soft, delectable potato pie. Mrs Edwards is very knowledgeable about all things Trinidad and often facilitates trip planning and dining experiences.

Tropical plants give the property a co-lourful cosiness. Lovely paintings and antique wooden furniture give the interior a genteel aura.

Rooms are comfortable with cable TV, air

conditioning and wireless internet. Mrs Ed-wards, will also arrange taxis and tours, and ensure that they are safe and affordable – a godsend for single female travellers and stu-dents. The property is secure, surrounded by high walls – which also offer solitude – and monitored by CCTV. Just one block away from all the nightlife, bars and restaurants in Woodbrook and 20 minutes from downtown Port of Spain or the Queen’s Park Savan-nah, it is a gem in the heart of the capital.

The Royal Palm Suite Hotel

Once the default hotel for touring reggae artistes, the Royal Palm of-fers special rates to citizens of CARI-

COM countries. Located in the lovely suburb of Maraval, on the outskirts of Port of Spain, it is within walking distance of the country club, a large supermarket and lots of restaurants and fast-food outlets. It has standard rooms, business suites and executive suites, and of-fers long-term leases at reasonable rates that include air-conditioning, internet access, and use of the pool and spa.

In the east, Holiday Inn Express is located just three minutes from Piarco Airport. Cor-porate travellers will appreciate the hotel’s business centre, free internet access and meeting room, which can be used for board meetings. Easy access to the University of West Indies in St Augustine, and the Univer-sity of Trinidad and Tobago at O’Meara.

Trincity Mall is within walking distance, and the Millennium Golf Course is a great place for an evening stroll. The hotel provides a complimentary shuttle from 4am to mid-night daily to the airport, departing the ho-tel every hour and usually leaves the airport within 20 minutes of arrival.


The warm waters and silky sands of Tobago’s coastline can be explored by sea – on a jet ski, dinghy, glass-bottomed boat or catamaran.

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The sea is the star of the show here, and everyone adores her. The beaches of Tobago are legendary. One look and you’ll know why. You could spend

weeks delighting in the many shades of gossamer-blue, aquamarine, turquoise and indigo of the sea. Just jump in. Try a different beach every day. The most popular beach on the island, Store Bay is a good starting point for your beach odyssey. This beach has crystal-clear waters, rocks at the far end, glass-bottom boats, food huts selling break-fast and lunch (fried bakes and veggies, saltfish, smoked herring; and curry, creole and fish dishes); free wi-fi; home-made ice cream and tonnes of cute souvenirs, including organic handmade soaps made from the island’s healing plants and nutritious fruits.

TObAgO RECOVERYDive right in

tobago


Thousands of people have stood on the jetty at Pigeon Point, gazing into the turquoise waters beneath their feet. At sunset, locals come with

bamboo rods and fish for their dinner from the jetty. The view is incredible from almost every spot on this well-maintained private estate, especially at the tip, where you can see the Caribbean Sea shoreline stretching all the way to Mt. Irvine. Millions of shells wash up on the shoreline, along with seaweed. The water is warm, quite shallow in some parts, and as calm as a swimming pool.

It is ideal for families, couples, groups of friends and those travelling solo. Kids will love watching the crabs on the rocks. Teens will want to try out the water sports – kayaking, wind-surfing, jet skis. You can also take a glass-bottom boat from the jetty.

Sheltered tables are perfect for picnics – and when it rains, to make friends with fellow huddlers. You can also sample lo-cal cuisine like crab and dumpling at the restaurant. The main bar has a pool table and can be quite lively. You can explore the trails on the other side of the beach, and check out the birds and insects among the trees and shrubs. Quite a few shops selling beachwear, inflatables, drinks, souvenirs, craft and clothing. Admission: TT$20.

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WALk ON WATERThe most photographed jetty in the world

Pigeon Point is the perfect place to watch the sun set.

in the water


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From Pigeon Point make your way north via Black Rock, where a magnificent outcrop of boulders and rocks point a jagged figure to the sky, and millions of tiny stones wash up with each powerful wave. Take the Northside Road and explore the unique beauty of each beach – the mangroves and bamboo at Eng-lishman’s Bay, the waterwheel in Speyside, the reef just off Castara, the jetty at Parlatuvier.

You will soon understand why Tobago has been a prize catch for centuries – for Amerin-dian tribes who came from the south, and lat-er, European colonial powers from the north.

But the descendants of African slaves brought here to work the sugar cane planta-tions have survived them all. Left to their own devices by the central government in Trinidad since independence in 1962, Tobagonians con-tinued their traditions, living simple, healthy lives, at one with the sea and the land. Their wake-up call is the cocrico, their rambunc-tious national bird. Their day starts with a cup of coffee among hummingbirds, before they go to their family plot of land to farm, or to fish off the coast.

Tobago remains an untamed piece of Par-adise, where you can still find yourself alone at sunset on a jetty, with 23 unnervingly quiet boobies, watching the sun set over the hills of Little Tobago and Goat Island.

Light up your life

In Bon Accord Lagoon, a glowing blue-green light at night in the water may look spooky. The amazing phe-

nomenon is caused by millions of phy-toplankton. They emit flashes of light to startle predators. If a stingray or tarpon passes through, they are lit up. Jump in and watch your starry outline light up the water. This magical display can be seen on a tour by Radical Sports, which is based at Pigeon Point. Starts 6pm, ends 9pm. Come at 5.15pm if you are go-ing to stand up paddle for the first time. Spaces are limited so book in advance. www.standuppaddletobago.comNature’s magic: millions of microscopic phytoplankton glow when

disturbed


The Nylon Pool’s warm, shallow wa-ters have become the stuff of legend. Some say it has the power to heal,

to rejuvenate and to keep love strong. What if there is indeed a fountain of youth? Not a bath full of Oil of Olay, as women might imagine, but a natural pool with waters that have magically rejuvenating properties?

It has the most remarkable effect on everyone who wallows in its warm waters. Even the oldest, dourest, crabbiest visitor is overcome by the sensuous pleasure of floating in this natural, shallow swimming pool in the middle of the sea. It is a hit with children, couples, families, pensioners – ev-eryone experiences this natural wonder on a personal level. Over the years, the tour guides have become more inventive with their spiels. They will tell you tales about the power of the waters to keep couples in love forever, to help you find your soul mate, to heal the sick… It may all be true, though,

The most famous sandbank in the worldsince everyone leaves feeling rather joyful and bubbly.

This elevated coral ground off the south-west coast of Tobago was christened by England’s Princess Margaret on her honey-moon visit because – depending on the ver-sion you read – the waters reminded her of her stockings, fishing line or the actual tex-tile. When their feet touch the tiny pieces of coral on the bottom of the pool, women usually grab handfuls and scrub their arms and feet – a free exfoliation and foot scrub. Half an hour in the Nylon Pool is like a day at the spa, with the ocean on one side and palm-fringed beaches on the other.

Most glass-bottom boat tours take you to the Buccoo Reef first and then stop at the Ny-lon Pool for a 45-minute swim. Once rated by French oceanographer and explorer Jacques Cousteau as the third most spectacular reef in the world, Buccoo Reef is accessible and perfect for first-time snorkellers.

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No Man’s Land is a spit of white coral-sand that fronts parts of the impenetrable mangrove of Bon Accord Lagoon, just across from the Nylon Pool. It is accessible only from the sea.

Black Rock • Tobago • West Indies

Tel: 868-639-0361

www.stonehavenvillas.com

[email protected]

Take the plunge, embrace the dreamTake the plunge, embrace the dream


kINgDOM OF THE CORALSJourney to an underwater universe

The reefs are alive! And the millions of creatures on them make scuba diving off Tobago’s coast a psychedelic trip.

If you think the corals and creatures in Find-ing Nemo were stunning, wait till you see the reefs off Tobago. The names alone are colourful enough: Obeah Man Point, Shark Bank, Scotch on Rocks, Gin and Tonic, Japanese Gardens, London Bridge, Lucifer’s Bay, Ketchup Reef, Snap, Crackle, Pop…

More than 50 dive sites – from easy to expert – await the diving enthusiast. Fring-ing reefs, bank reefs, patch reefs, outcrops, pillars and headlands… they’re all there. To-bago’s waters are so rich with nutrients, mil-lions of marine creatures live off the plankton and polyps on the reefs, while others, like

kINgDOM OF THE CORALS

sharks and turtles, pass through at certain times of the year. Shoals of blue wrasses, damselfish, blue chromis and gaudy parrot-fish are the most prevalent on all the reefs, along with spotfin butterflyfish, trumpet fish

and angelfish. The corals are almost as varied and interest-ing, and include the feared fire coral, as well as the fan, tube, brain, great star and elkhorn corals. Many corals are colourful themselves, ranging from red through or-

ange to white. Poised purposefully between the corals are sea whips, fans, molluscs, sea urchins, anemones, sponges and sea weeds.

The rich waters are also the reason for the massive size of some of the hard corals, like the giant brain coral off Speyside, which is more than six metres wide. Huge barrel

more than 50 dive sites – from easy to expert – await

the diving enthusiast

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Tobago’s coastal waters are rich in nutrients brought by the Guyana Current, which produce an abundance of plankton – food for massive shoals of small fry, which in turn feed large fish, such

as jacks, barracuda, wahoo, tarpon and tuna.

diving


sponges also sprout in the Columbus Pas-sage south of Tobago.

The sea grass itself is also home to the tini-est of creatures, now the subject of research, including seahorses, often found hooked onto the base of sea rods or plumes close to a sandy bed. And that’s just the small fry. The big boys of the blue include sharks, turtles, rays and eels. Between December and May in the Speyside region, whale sharks are often seen on early morning dives. Other species, such as tiger, bull, nurse, reef, blacktip, ham-merhead and lemon sharks, have also been spotted. The stingray also comes in different varieties: southern, roughtail, lesser electric ray, spotted eagle ray (with a tail three times as long as its head), and the biggest of them all, the manta ray. Your best chance to swim with a manta is an early morning dive off Speyside in Black Jack Hole.

The big fish off Tobago feed on the in-finite shoals of small fry, and these include jacks, barracuda, wahoo, tarpon and tuna.

The wreck of the Maverick, which was

sunk in 1997 off Mt Irvine, offers close en-counters with large barracuda and giant jewfish. The Sisters (on the Caribbean coast) consist of a cluster of rock pinnacles that breaks the surface and drops to a mind-bog-gling depth of 140 feet. Strictly for advanced divers, please. This area is home of a residen-tial population of hammerhead sharks.

Other sites for expert divers include Fly-ing Manta, London Bridge, Diver’s Dream and Diver’s Thirst. The conflicting currents in these areas create a playground for mantas, barracuda and tarpon. Beginners may want to stick to Flying Reef, Mt Irvine Wall, Arnos Vale, Englishman’s Bay, Black Jack Hole and King’s Bay.

The Columbus Passage is one of the top drift-diving locations in the Caribbean. Here the sites have strong currents that flow in a westerly direction. This constant water movement sculpts sea fans and giant barrel sponges into unusual shapes. Turtles, eagle rays and reef sharks are usually seen on these dives.

Divers adore the reefs off Tobago, where they can easily spot a staggering array of marine life – from turtles and sharks to groupers and manta rays.

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Learning to scuba dive

It takes a lot to conquer an instinctive fear of the ocean. Top of the list is a patient and reassuring instructor. The trick to scuba diving is staying calm. If you’ve ever

done yoga or meditation, you have an advantage. What throws most people off is the panic attack. Control your fear and it’s as easy as breathing. In and out, through your mouth – that’s the mantra you need to focus on.

Tobago has some very good diving instructors, includ-ing former Coast Guard officers with mnay years of ex-perience. You can take the Discover Scuba course, which starts with a video that explains everything, from how your ears will feel when you submerge to the technique to clear water from your mask. Most beginners do their first dive in Store Bay on a small reef about 100 feet from the shore.

Many fearful first-timers surprise themselves and go on to do their PADI certification. The PADI SCUBA DIVER course takes only two days and afterwards, you can dive anywhere in the world. Frontier Divers also offers specialty courses in deep-sea diving, diving on wrecks, underwater navigation, and night dives. With 45 dive spots around To-bago, learning to scuba is the key to opening the door to a brave new world.

Of course when you en-ter their world, there’s al-ways the risk of getting on the wrong side of some crea-tures. The usual suspects in cases of injury are poison-ous sponges, jellyfish, Por-tuguese man-o-war, puffer fish, fire coral, bristle worms, stingrays, sharks, moray eels, sea urchins, scorpion fish and barracudas. As you may already know, the best way to deal with any injury is to wash the wound with saltwater (not fresh water); apply vinegar and cortisone cream. Once you employ a professional dive operator, they should be able to pro-vide the required treatment and medical attention.

www.mytobago.info rates all the dive operators on the is-land.


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Little Tobago

Still a well-kept secret tucked away off the northeast coast, Little Tobago’s rugged cliffs surf are home to colo-

nies of breeding boobies, terns, frigate birds and red-billed tropic birds. You can stand on a ledge and watch the never-ending aerial drama between red-tailed tropic birds and boobies.

game fishing

Out at sea, where the Orinoco flows into the Caribbean Sea, the waters teem with big fish, giants of the

deep like blue marlin, white marlin, swordfish, wahoo, tuna, barracuda and mahi-mahi. They tease and torment anglers, and mesmerise divers. The charter captains in Tobago are among the best in the world.

Little Tobago, seen here behind Goat island, is an important breeding ground for seabirds, and was once a protected habitat of the Greater Bird of Paradise. Forty-five juveniles were introduced to the island in 1909 in an attempt to save the species, but a hurricane hit in 1963, and all were killed. Glass-bottomed boats offer tours of the island that include snorkelling on Angel Reef.


The road less travelled along the Carib-bean coast is a wonderland of serenity, stunning natural beauty, and old-time

living. From the moment you turn on to the Northside Road, you feel the difference. The world is suddenly greener. Quieter. Red, ripe cashews litter the road, and mango trees droop as thousands of sin-fully delicious julie, starch, bombay and rose mangoes ripen in the sun. A cow grazing in a field of flowers raises its head slowly as a family of German visitors – parents, children and a baby in a backpack – pass by, on their way back from a hike to a waterfall.

This is the charm of Tobago’s Caribbean

coast, where the pace of life has changed only slightly in the last 100 years. The real wonder of Tobago is how the people have held on to traditions through the centuries – mostly out of necessity. From living off the

land to helping each other to build their homes, customs of self-sufficiency and community are still very much alive, es-pecially in the villag-es along the North Side Road. Everyone knows everyone, with many families having

lived in the same village for generations. In villages like Castara, life has always re-

volved around the sea, and fishing is still a major source of income for many men. You can always find a few liming on the beach af-

THE NORTHSIDE– a ride on the wild side

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everyone knows everyone, with many families having

lived in the same village for generations

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Far from the madding crowd: You can hear yourself think out here, where peace and quiet reign – and the only sounds are the wind, the birds, and the cows mooing lazily to each other.


ter hauling in the day’s catch, or just chilling. The young men of Tobago know the sea like a best friend. The waves are calm enough so it’s safe for children to swim in the shallows and the reefs teem with the most brilliantly coloured fish, turtles and stingrays. During nesting season, this is where hundreds of leatherback turtles come to the beaches to lay their eggs.

Spend a day at any of the beaches in Parlatuvier, English-man’s Bay or Castara, and you’ll be tempted to join their ranks and stake out your own spot in the shade of a coconut tree.

Twice a week, some women in Castara fire up an old-style dirt oven and bake bread and cakes. The many old wooden houses along the stretch of coast will delight the architecture buff. You can find simple, one-room dwellings that are centu-ries old, still standing strong on cornerstones.

Although there are modern guesthouses with all ameni-ties, even a pool, they are not large or intrusive. In fact, most tend to make the most of the natural bounty around – such as dozens of gorgeous blue tanagers, orange-winged parrots, bananaquits and corn birds – and peaceful ambience. You can find fabulous eco-friendly log cabins with compost heaps and organic vegetable plots – ideal for a holiday with a conscience.

Tip: An air-conditioned bus leaves from Scar-borough every two hours and goes as far as L’Anse Fourmi (or L’Ansumi, as the locals say) for less than US$1.

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The old men and the sea: fishermen and villagers help bring in fish-laden nets (known as ‘pulling seine’).


birding

For birders, the most important person in Tobago is Newton George. A retired forest ranger, George has more than

35 years of experience in the Main Ridge For-est Reserve, the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere. A tour with him rewards the avid birder with sightings of the rare manakins and hummingbirds that in-habit this tranquil preserve. If you don’t see a bird for a few minutes, he will simply call one.

Nobody knows Tobago’s birds better than George. He has intimate knowledge of every corner of the island and is as at home in the flatlands around Crown Point as he is in the northern ranges of the Main Ridge For-est Reserve. Safeguarded from developers since 1776, the rainforest is home to many of Tobago’s birds, including the many colourful macaws that make a ruckus as they fly over-head on the way to or from Venezuela.

Adventure Farm and Nature Reserve

When owner Ean MacKay rings a bell, as he has been doing for years now, the air hums with the

sound of wings as dozens of hummingbirds, tanagers and bananaquits swoop in to feed on fruits and sugared water. A rare all-white hummingbird was spotted and photographed at Adventure Farm in late 2013.

A trained guide dog can take you on a tour among the trails, or you can take a walk down to the tilapia pond. Kids will love feed-ing the fish, while you relax and take in the serene beauty. You can taste the bounty of this land in their fresh fruit juices made from whatever is in season – cherry, soursop, man-go, pawpaw, guava… This is sustainable living that makes both you and Nature very happy. www.adventure-ecovillas.com

Six levels, each having a pool, make Argyle Waterfall a delight. The trail passes through a wonderland of wild orchids and majestic trees.

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Cuffie River Nature Retreat

In the mountains of Moriah, just off the western end of the Main Ridge, a derelict cocoa estate has been turned into a forest hideaway. At this world-class bird-watching retreat,

all the rooms face the forest, where the tiny whirlwinds known as hummingbirds have made their home. www.cuffie-river.com

Argyle Falls

Between Roxborough and Belle Garden you will find the famous Argyle Falls, which is also part of the Main Ridge. The main office, where you pay a small admis-

sion fee, also rents water-proof boots. On the walk to the falls you can admire the emerald-green tangle of flowers, ferns, bromeliads and trees that make up the forest. The top of the falls is high, with three pools of deliciously cold, flowing water. You can climb the rocks to the top or just marvel at the power of the cascading water from below. This is a great activity for the entire family.www.argylewaterfall.org

Save a Leatherback

During turtle nesting season (March-August), the en-dangered Leatherback comes ashore at Great Cour-land Bay (Turtle Beach). Save our Sea Turtles (SOS)

monitors and collects data on the three main leatherback nesting beaches in the Courland Bay area and at key sites around the island and offshore.

SOS welcomes volunteers to spend the night tagging turtles; count nests in the early morning and rescue disoriented hatchlings. This is a chance to see one of the most extraordinary sights in the world – and also to help save these awesome creatures.

For many visitors who have never seen a Giant Leatherback turtle, patrolling the beach with SOS is a once-in-a-lifetime ex-perience. Seeing the mother lay her eggs, cover them up and return safely back to the ocean is a memory to treasure.

You have to commit to a minimum of four weeks between March and September to really contribute to the work in a mean-ingful way. www.sos-tobago.org t

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You can volunteer to help protect Leatherback turtles from poachers by patrolling Turtle Beach with Save our Sea Turtles (SOS).

Many thanks to Harris McDonald of the Toba-go Tour Guide Associa-tion for his assistance in arranging tours.


Riding

Fancy riding into the sunset? On the beach? Or through some

woodland trails? Stonehaven, Grand Courland and Canoe Bay are the most popular beaches for this. Book at the office in Canoe Bay or ask your hotels to arrange it. www.friendshipridingstables.com www.being-with-horses.com

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Stop and smell the roses – and the herbs, and all the plants that make Tobago a top eco-destination.

Making brown gold: Tobago Estate Chocolate

In the hills above the village of Roxborough, towards the eastern end of the island, Tobago Cocoa Estate produces its own premium chocolate bar from cocoa grown on the

estate. Owner Duane Dove, a sommelier by profession, also twins aged rums with his fine chocolate, which was given the ultimate three stars by the London Guild of Fine Foods last year.

The chocolate is available for tasting on the estate itself, as part of tour packages. Visitors are taken for walks among the cassava and banana plants and red-flowered immortelle trees that shade the young cocoa trees, which are covered by netting to keep parrots and squirrels away. A falconer with trained hawks also helps to police the fields.

Tobago Cocoa Estate chocolate bars are available at a handful of locations in Trinidad & Tobago. www.tobagococoa.com


Holidaying with children is an oxy-moron for many. Many parents find themselves more exhausted after the

vacation than before. Not in Tobago. This island was made for

children. It’s a like going on safari, to the Nat-ural History Museum and SeaWorld all in one.

If you’ve got two or three families va-cationing together, better yet. Rent one of the many villas around the island. Quite a few have a pool and large gar-dens or backyards. The kids can play football, cricket or tennis on the grass, or spend the day turning into prunes in the pool.

A barbecue grill is usually on hand, so you can shop at the supermarket or the market in Scarborough, and make your own meals.

In places like Black Rock, the villas are just five minutes’ walk or a minute’s drive from the beach. If you visit between March and Au-gust, you can spend the night on Turtle Beach watching leatherback turtles come up to nest. Rent a car and visit a different beach every day. Pigeon Point is a particular favourite. Here

you can relax in your lounge chair while the children frolic and roll around in the shallow, calm waters, or hunt for crabs scuttling around in the rocks. Teens will nag you to rent a jet ski. They can head out to the nearby lagoon or to Store Bay. The adventurous ones will

spend hours at the water sports centre learning to windsurf, kite surf or riding a banana boat.

The Botanic Gar-dens in Scarborough is perfect for a pic-nic, and the kids can climb the dozens of mango trees whose

fruit dangle tantalisingly within reach. They can run up and down the gentle slopes of this 17-acre sanctuary to their hearts’ content.

The teens will probably miss the mall and want to scout the local talent. At Gulf City Mall in Lowlands they can pedal around in the car park on manual go-karts (burn off some of that never-ending energy), then go see the latest 3D and HD movies (and their local coun-terparts). Films premiere within days of open-ing in the US and Europe so they can always boast when they get back home that they saw the most recent blockbuster in Paradise.

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The most popular beach on the island, Store Bay is the place to meet locals, sample curry crab and dumpling, buy souvenirs or take a glass-bottom boat tour

at pigeon point you can relax in your lounge chair while the children frolic in the shallow,

calm water

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Nightlife

The Shade is the only club on the island and still the best place to boogie. The main dance-floor is open at the sides

under a huge, high thatched roof. Relax and take in the moves from the edge, or jump in and get sweaty. The vibe tends to be warm and welcoming – the main business being dancing and having a blast. The crowd tends to be a mix of Tobagonians, Trinis and visi-tors.

Barcode, along the waterfront in Scarbor-ough, is a sports bar where you can watch whatever is gripping locals at the moment – T20 cricket, the English Premier League, a boxing match in the US – and have a tasty meal. Live entertainment can take the form of karaoke, soca artistes or up-and-coming bands.

Hotel bars and casinos are also hot spots for entertainment.

Ciao Pizza

Mirko D’Alessio, owner of Ciao Pizza and the café next door in Scarborough, just up the road

from the port, came to Tobago by mistake: he thought he had booked a trip to Tonga. But his travel agent got confused, and D’Alessio’s Pacific vacation turned into a Caribbean adventure. The former dental technician is now a restaurateur, bringing authentic Italian cuisine – many ingredi-ents are specially flown in from Italy – to the narrow streets of Tobago’s capital.

Why? “It’s what I know,” he says. Mirko’s food may not be of Tobago-nian heritage, but his honesty and com-mitment to authentic, satisfying meals perfectly captures the island’s attitude to food. This is why he has been serv-ing painstakingly genuine Italian meats, cheeses, wines, gelato, pasta and pizza to Tobago’s citizens and visitors for more than a decade. The gelato is to die for. If you eat nothing else in Tobago – for the entire stay – savour the gelato.

Tobago’s spe-cialty, which you simply have to

try, is curry crab and dumplings. Once that’s

out of the way, you can proceed to sample the in-

exhaustible selection of cre-ole dishes as well as the fresh

seafood, Arabic, Italian, barbe-cue, pizza, fried chicken, homemade

ice cream and fudge (if you see soursop fudge, buy it). From holes in the walls and stalls to five-star restaurants, Tobago will give you something to write home about. Shore Things in Lambeau is part restaurant, part craft store. Focus on dessert. You do not try the coconut cream pie or the lime cheese-cake. You convert to them.

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Tobago’s signature dish, curried crab and dumplings


Anthea’s Treasure Trove, Store bay

Imagine soaps made with honey, goat’s milk, bayleaf, al-oes, cocoa, tumeric, cucumbers, caraili, avocado, noni and “wonder of the world” – things to make your skin go

mmmm… Anola Anthea Martin uses local organic ingredients to make her line of delicious soaps, body smoothies, lip balms, body spritz, bath bombs, body scrubs and body soaks. She also makes wrappers and cards from recycled paper, banana, corn and cocoa leaves, and discarded flowers and stems.

Scarborough Market is an earthy experience that vegans and market lovers will appreciate. You can pick up fresh fruits, veggies, seasoning, ground provisions and seafood – as well as toys, slippers, swimsuits and T-shirts at really reasonable prices.

The airport is the ideal place to pick up some of Tobago’s signature (calorific) munchies. Here you will find the island’s famous jaw-breaker, bene balls (and sticks), which are made from sesame seeds and molasses. A word of caution: do not attempt to bite into the bene as this could cost you a tooth or two. Try sucking it for some time so that it softens somewhat. You will also find other sugary confections like nut cake, jub jub, tamarind balls, sugar cake, pawpaw balls and red mango.

SHOPPINg

Tip: Buy lots. You will probably end up eating all, so factor in a souve-nir stop on the way to the departure lounge when you’re leaving.

A taste of sweet Tobago: sugar cakes, bene balls and nut cakes are some of the

island’s signature treats

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From cosy log cabins and boutique ho-tels to palatial villas and rolling golf courses, Tobago has it all. Add “beach

on doorstep”, if you fancy. Nature lovers and birders can sit on a wooden deck among the trees and have their coffee with humming-birds and tanagers. Or, laze around in the lap of luxury in a villa at Stonehaven – on the deck of your hillside villa overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Villas are furnished in French colonial style with large ve-randahs and Berbice chairs, and each has its own heated infinity edge pool, perfect for star-gazing on a clear night.

The 14 villas at Stone-haven are perched on a bluff with panoramic views of the sea. They are named after the island’s most well-known birds – like the scarlet ibis, jacamar, manakin, cocrico, parakeet, raven, tanager, humming-bird, kiskadee, picoplat and motmot. The tribute is apt, since many of these birds alight in the trees nearby. Many are passing through on their way to the Caledonia Wildlife Sanc-tuary, which adjoins the property.

Most come with fully equipped kitchens, including wine coolers and a washer/dryer. Your housekeeper will come as often as you like to change the linen and towels (including beach/pool towels). Wi-fi is complimentary. Professional babysitting services are usu-

ally available, as well as the service of a chef who can prepare private candlelight dinners (served under the stars on your pool deck preferably). A few villas also offer the ser-vices of private masseurs.

The idea is to relax in absolute blissed-out happiness. At some villas, honeymooners receive a special VIP arrival pack that in-cludes wine, fruit and flowers. A housekeeper will come in every day and serve breakfast on

the verandah. The Sugar Mill Suites

are bungalows, condos and villas set amidst the sprawl-ing Tobago Plantations golf course. Bungalows all come with their own plunge pool or Jacuzzi, and are fully equipped with a dishwasher, washer/ dryer, microwave and stereo system. The bed-

rooms are air-conditioned with ensuite bath-rooms. Each room, including the living room, has a television with cable access. Daily housekeeping services included, depending on your package.

The three- or four-bedroom luxury villas offer the discerning traveller the best that money can buy: safety, serenity, acres of em-erald greenery, a championship golf course, a landscaped garden and a private swimming pool. Beautifully furnished air-conditioned bedrooms all have ensuite bathrooms, state-of-the-art kitchen appliances, cable TV in

WHERE TO STAY

the idea is to relax in absolute blissed-

out happiness

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accommodation


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The view from Stonehaven Villas alone is worth the stay. Add the personal infinity pool in each

villa, and you never want to leave.


every bedroom and the living room, DVD player, CD player and stereo.

If you so desire, a housekeeper can pro-vide daily cleaning and babysitting services, and prepare local dishes (added cost).

You can wander around the vast property, which includes the Magdalena Grand Hotel, and all sorts of birds and wildlife, including caimans (baby crocodiles) in small lakes and ponds. They often come out on the banks for some afternoon sun. They are quite shy and will probably scoot back into the water when they spot you.

Many first-time visitors adore Belleviste Apartments because it’s close to the air-port, beaches and restaurants. Spacious and comfortable, the apartments are cleaned daily and fresh towels provided. You can have breakfast at Sandy Point Hotel, which is next door and accessible through a gate which is opened from 6a.m. to 6p.m. A lovely place to have your meals is the spacious gazebo, or at one of the many picnic tables or benches on the lawn. (If you can, book an apartment upstairs for a gorgeous view of the sea.

Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort, which is also in Crown Point, is a favourite with cou-ples and singles alike. It offers captivating views and is ideally located, with access to many of the island’s premier attractions and popular activities. Ocean views from the up-per floors and spacious rooms have made this hotel a popular weekend getaway with Trini-dadians, who appreciate the jovial hospitality of the staff. Everyone is helpful and interested in making your stay fantastic. Not only do they know you by name, at the complimenta-ry breakfast, the chef will remember how you like your eggs done. The resort’s manager is often there to greet you at breakfast if you need assistance or advice.

Families will adore Tropikist, especially if you have small children, who will just want to spend the entire day in the pool. In the eve-ning you may be able to tear them away for a walk to the nearby beach, or the small park at Fort Milford, just down the road. At night, you can try your luck at a casino or take in some entertainment.

Be sure to request a superior room if you

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would like complete privacy to work on your tan. Tropikist also has a secluded outdoor sunning deck.

If you’re looking for somewhere away from the crowd, Half Moon Blue Hotel is in Bacolet, not far from Scarborough, overlooking a private and secluded bay. This boutique hotel is set amidst lush bamboo and bougainvillea on a hillside. A romantic wooden bridge connects the hotel to the charming Cafe Havana, with its antique décor and delicious dishes.

You will find it hard to believe that this elegant boutique hotel was – a century and a half ago – a donkey cart house! Eight suites and a spectacular penthouse loft overlook Baco-let Bay. Spacious verandas are furnished with chaise lounges and white oversized bucket chairs. The ambience created by wooden jalousied doors and high ceilings in each of the in-dividually styled rooms makes you just want to sink into the sumptuous Egyptian cotton sheets on the king-sized four-poster bed, pull the floor-length white netting, and fall into blissful sleep.

Suzuki Jeeps and cars can be rented on site; and babysit-ting and laundry service are available.

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The sun sets on Mt Irvine Bay, a beach loved by surfers and snorkellers alike.


Basse Terre

Huevos

Chacachacare

Scotland BayMonos

Gaspar Grande

Santa Cruz

Diego Martin

Morvant

Paramin

Mac

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El Socorro

San JuanTu

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Curepe

St. Joseph

Tacarigua

Arouca

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Blanchisseuse

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Sangre Grande

Brasso Seco

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Las C

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Matelot

Grande RiviereGalera Point

Redhead

Rampanalgas

Saline (Sally) Bay

Manzanilla Bay

Manzanilla

Matura Bay

St. Joseph

Mayaro

Mayaro Bay

Galeota Point

Rio Claro

Rushville

Guayaguayare

Caroni Bird Sanctuary

Waterloo

Freeport

CouvaPoint Lisas

California

Claxton BayTortuga

Ste. Madeleine

Princes Town

Tabaquite

Gasparillo

New Grant

Busy Corner

Indian Walk

Tableland

Devil's Woodyard

Poole

Piparo

Gran Couva

Carapichaima

Nariva Swamp and Bush-Bush

Sanctuary

Vistabella

Navet Dam

Pointe-a-Pierre

Barrackpore

Penal

DebeSt. Mary's

Los Bajos

Palo SecoMoruga

Fyzabad

Siparia

Point Fortin

Cap De Ville

Vessigny

Granville

Quinam Bay

Erin Bay

Icacos

Cedros

Icacos Point

La BreaPitch Lake

San Francique

Oropouche Lagoon

C h a g u a r a m a s Asa Wright Nature Centre

Hollis Reservoir

Matura

Salybia

PORT OF SPAIN

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Caroni-Arena Reservoir

Toco

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Longdenville

Jerningham Junction

Biche

Chaguanas

Saly

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Balandra Bay

Coryal

San Rafael

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Police Station

Park

Hospital

Port

Turtle Nesting

Shopping Centre

Lighthouse

Beach without Facilities

Cinema

Caves

Gas Station

Bird Watching

Golf Course

Viewpoint

Scuba Diving

Beach with Restrooms

Volcano

KayakingPlace of interest

Waterfall

Airport

Surfing

Fort

Watersports

Church

Sporting Grounds

Swamp

Swimming

Cycling

Sunbathing Food Available

Lifeguard on Duty

Snorkelling

Sailing

Major roadway

Highway

TRINIDAD


Basse Terre

Huevos

Chacachacare

Scotland BayMonos

Gaspar Grande

Santa Cruz

Diego Martin

Morvant

Paramin

Mac

quer

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Bay

Barataria

El Socorro

San JuanTu

napuna

Curepe

St. Joseph

Tacarigua

Arouca

Lopinot

Valencia

Blanchisseuse

Cumuto

Arima

Sangre Grande

Brasso Seco

Cunaripa

Mar

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Bay

Las C

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Tyric

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Matelot

Grande RiviereGalera Point

Redhead

Rampanalgas

Saline (Sally) Bay

Manzanilla Bay

Manzanilla

Matura Bay

St. Joseph

Mayaro

Mayaro Bay

Galeota Point

Rio Claro

Rushville

Guayaguayare

Caroni Bird Sanctuary

Waterloo

Freeport

CouvaPoint Lisas

California

Claxton BayTortuga

Ste. Madeleine

Princes Town

Tabaquite

Gasparillo

New Grant

Busy Corner

Indian Walk

Tableland

Devil's Woodyard

Poole

Piparo

Gran Couva

Carapichaima

Nariva Swamp and Bush-Bush

Sanctuary

Vistabella

Navet Dam

Pointe-a-Pierre

Barrackpore

Penal

DebeSt. Mary's

Los Bajos

Palo SecoMoruga

Fyzabad

Siparia

Point Fortin

Cap De Ville

Vessigny

Granville

Quinam Bay

Erin Bay

Icacos

Cedros

Icacos Point

La BreaPitch Lake

San Francique

Oropouche Lagoon

C h a g u a r a m a s Asa Wright Nature Centre

Hollis Reservoir

Matura

Salybia

PORT OF SPAIN

SAN FERNANDO

Caroni-Arena Reservoir

Toco

Piarco

Longdenville

Jerningham Junction

Biche

Chaguanas

Saly

bia

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Balandra Bay

Coryal

San Rafael

Talparo

Cunupia

Guaico

Todds Road

Brasso

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Post O�ce

Police Station

Park

Hospital

Port

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Shopping Centre

Lighthouse

Beach without Facilities

Cinema

Caves

Gas Station

Bird Watching

Golf Course

Viewpoint

Scuba Diving

Beach with Restrooms

Volcano

KayakingPlace of interest

Waterfall

Airport

Surfing

Fort

Watersports

Church

Sporting Grounds

Swamp

Swimming

Cycling

Sunbathing Food Available

Lifeguard on Duty

Snorkelling

Sailing

Major roadway

Highway


Adam Smith Sq.

Siegert Sq.

AUDREY JEFFERS

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Quamina

Angelina

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Trinidad Crescent

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Rapsey St.

Scott St. Newbold La

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William St.Vallot St.

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Piccadilly

Observa

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Norfolk St.

Industry

Jermingham

Cadiz Rd.

Arch

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Erthig Rd.

Palmiste St.

Belmont Circular

WESTERN MAIN ROAD

TRAGARETE ROAD

ARIAPITA AVENUE

MUCURAPO ROAD

George Cabral Patna St.

Delhi St.

Kathleen St.

Li

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Saddle Road

Barbados Rd.

Ellerslie Park

INDEPENDENCE SQ/ BRIAN LARA PROMENADE

Nook Ave.

Lady Young Rd.

Coblentz Ave

.La Fantasie

Cascade

WRIGHTSON ROAD

Serpentine Rd.

Serpentine Rd.

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Queen's Royal

Hall of Justice

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St. Lu

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Digicel Imax

Jackson Sq.

St James Medical Complex

Long Circular Mall

Woodbrook Cemetery

One Woodbrook

Place

QUEEN'S PARK SAVANNAH

Hasely Crawford Stadium

Jean Pierre

Complex

MovieTowne

Fatima Sports Grounds

St. Mary's Sports Grounds

Ellerslie Plaza

Nelson Mandela Park St. Clair Medical

Lapeyrouse Cemetery

Botanical Gardens

Emperor Valley Zoo

Horticultural Society

President's

Queen's Hall

Prime Minister's Residence and

Diplomatic Centre

Port of Spain General Hospital

Memorial ParkNational Academy for

Performing ArtsNational Museum

St. James Police Baracks

Cruise Ship ComplexInternational

Waterfront Centre

Water Taxi

Licensing O ce

John S. Donaldson Techinal Institute

Government Campus

City HallRedHouse

National Library

Fire Station

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Chaguanas/ San Fernando

Curepe/Tunapuna/Arima/ Sangre Grande

Chaguaramas

San Juan

St. Anns/ St. James/ Queens Park Savannah

Belmont

Wrightson Road/ Long Circular

Diego Martin/Petit Valley

Ariapita Avenue/ Chaguaramas/ Carenage

Cascade

Cocorite

Maraval

POS General Hospital

Queen's Park Savannah

Brian Lara Promenade

Emperor Valley Zoo

Botanical Gardens

Magnificent Seven

Hall of Justice

NAPA

Queen's Hall

National Library

Waterfront and Ferry Terminal

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Woodford Square

Red House

The Holy Trinity Cathedral (Anglican)

President's House

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hrie

St.

Link


Adam Smith Sq.

Siegert Sq.

AUDREY JEFFERS

HIG

HW

AY

Vict

oria

Ave

.

Dun

dona

ld S

t.

Char

lott

e St

.

Gordon St.

New St.

Oxford St.

Edw

ard

St.

St. V

ince

nt

Aber

crom

by S

t.

Pem

brok

e St

.

Fr kci r edeSt

.

Hen

ry S

t.

Cha

ncer

y La

neAlbion St.

Keate St.

Stan

mor

e Av

e. Melville

Der

e St

.Bo

rde

St.

Pict

on S

t.

Marli St.

Warner St. Woo

dfor

d St

.Gra

y St

.

Alcazar St.

Rust St.

Sweet Briar Rd.

Alex

andr

a

Herbert St.

htebazilESt

.

Flood St.

Hayes St.

Mar

y St

.

Flood St.

O'C

onno

r St.

Gal

lus

Ana

St.

Albe

rto

St.

Luis

St.

Carlo

s St.

Petra

St.

Alfre

do

Fitt

St.

Mur

ray

St.Ro

salin

o St

.

Tayl

or S

t.

Baden Powell

Alfre

do S

t.De V

erte

uil S

t.

Denn

is M

ahab

ir St

.

Belle

Sm

ythe

St

.

Brabant St.

Kelly Kenny

Hunter St.Hamilton St.

Pole

Car

ew S

t.

Ham

ilton

Hol

der

Damian St.

Petra

St.

Ana

St.

Gal

lus

Albe

rto

St.

Rosa

lino

St.

Luis

St.

Carlo

s St.

Roberts St.

Mur

ray

St.

Corn

elio

St.

Fren

ch St

.

Methuen St.

Mc Donald St.

Kitchener

Buller

Sack

ville

Gata

cre

St.

Ston

e St

.

Sc ehsuB tt oSt

. t nemal F

St.

Mel

bour

ne S

t.

London St.

Charles St. Rich

mon

d St

.

Shin

e St

.Philli

ps St.

Fraser St.

Sackville St.

Duke St.

Queen St.

Prince St.

rahC

lott

e St

.

Knox St.

Chac

on S

t.

Hart St.

Quamina

Angelina

Ranjit Kumar St.

Brun

ton

Rd.

Moo

nera

m S

t.

Church St.

Sala

zar S

t.

Bom

bay

St.

Bour

nes

Rd.

Laza

re S

t. Mad

ras

Agra

St.

Sakar St.

Beng

al S

t.

Calc

utta

St.

ahadnaKr S

t.Ba

roda

St.

Coro

natio

n Lu

ckpu

t St.

Rom

eo S

t.

Mat

hura

Finland

Ethe

l St.

Panka St.

Carlton Ave.

Bay R

d.

Den

gue

St.

Anderson St.

Clar

ence

St.

Wee

kes S

t.Ni

zam

St.

Nepa

ul S

t.

Vida

le S

t.

Caw

npor

e Be

nare

s St.

Hyderabad

Henr

y Pi

erre

St.

Pujadas St.

Gas

ton

John

ston

St.

Luck

now

St.

Jam

aica

Blv

d.St.

Vincent

Gre

nada

Nevis Ave.St. Kitts Ave.

Trinidad Crescent

Maxw

ell-Phillip

Antigua Dr.

Wainw

righ

Dominica Ave.

Rapsey St.

Scott St. Newbold La

mm

y St

.Co

tton

Hill

William St.Vallot St.

Lady

Cha

ncel

lor R

d.

South Quay

Piccadilly

Observa

tory

Norfolk St.

Industry

Jermingham

Cadiz Rd.

Arch

er S

t.

Erthig Rd.

Palmiste St.

Belmont Circular

WESTERN MAIN ROAD

TRAGARETE ROAD

ARIAPITA AVENUE

MUCURAPO ROAD

George Cabral Patna St.

Delhi St.

Kathleen St.

Li

C gnor

alucr R

d.

Saddle Road

Barbados Rd.

Ellerslie Park

INDEPENDENCE SQ/ BRIAN LARA PROMENADE

Nook Ave.

Lady Young Rd.

Coblentz Ave

.La Fantasie

Cascade

WRIGHTSON ROAD

Serpentine Rd.

Serpentine Rd.

QUEEN'S PARK EAST

Park St.

Coc

ir ot

, eW

augahC , sgnir oomtse

ram

as

Maraval Maraval & Maracas St. Ann's

Cascade

Morv

aB ,t

narataria, Chur

llih

cRoosevelt H

igha

wy

QUEEN'S PARK WEST

Mar

aval

Rd.

Mar

aval

Rd.

East n

i aM

nre

Rd.

Terminus/City Gate

Victoria Sq.

Woodford Sq.

Broo

me

St.

Hav

eloc

k St

.

Queen's Park Oval

Queen's Royal

Hall of Justice

Cipr

iani

Bou

leva

rd

GULF OF PARIA

Mag

nific

ent

S

even

Prada St.

St. Lu

cia St

.

Price Smart

Digicel Imax

Jackson Sq.

St James Medical Complex

Long Circular Mall

Woodbrook Cemetery

One Woodbrook

Place

QUEEN'S PARK SAVANNAH

Hasely Crawford Stadium

Jean Pierre

Complex

MovieTowne

Fatima Sports Grounds

St. Mary's Sports Grounds

Ellerslie Plaza

Nelson Mandela Park St. Clair Medical

Lapeyrouse Cemetery

Botanical Gardens

Emperor Valley Zoo

Horticultural Society

President's

Queen's Hall

Prime Minister's Residence and

Diplomatic Centre

Port of Spain General Hospital

Memorial ParkNational Academy for

Performing ArtsNational Museum

St. James Police Baracks

Cruise Ship ComplexInternational

Waterfront Centre

Water Taxi

Licensing O ce

John S. Donaldson Techinal Institute

Government Campus

City HallRedHouse

National Library

Fire Station

N

1 2

3

4

5

6

7 89

10 11

1213

1

2

3

4

5

6

89

1

12

13

1514

7

11

Taxi Stands

Chaguanas/ San Fernando

Curepe/Tunapuna/Arima/ Sangre Grande

Chaguaramas

San Juan

St. Anns/ St. James/ Queens Park Savannah

Belmont

Wrightson Road/ Long Circular

Diego Martin/Petit Valley

Ariapita Avenue/ Chaguaramas/ Carenage

Cascade

Cocorite

Maraval

POS General Hospital

Queen's Park Savannah

Brian Lara Promenade

Emperor Valley Zoo

Botanical Gardens

Magnificent Seven

Hall of Justice

NAPA

Queen's Hall

National Library

Waterfront and Ferry Terminal

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Woodford Square

Red House

The Holy Trinity Cathedral (Anglican)

President's House

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10

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1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

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10

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12

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Jerr

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Gut

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St.

Link

PORT O

F SPAIN


Chag

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mas

21

18 19

2051

Edith

Fal

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Fort

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Gas

pare

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Long Circular

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Co

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Se

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St.

Cla

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Casc

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Saut

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au

Goodwood Park

Boca Grande

Boca de Novios

Chac

acha

care

Hue

vos

Boca de Huevos

Bay

view

R

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Mon

os

Gas

par G

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Tete

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Bay

B o c a d e M o n o s

Mac

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Bay

Nor

th P

ost

Para

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Chag

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Edith

Fa

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St.

Jam

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Belm

ont

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St. A

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Mar

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PORT

OF

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N

Wes

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l

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Cath

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Wrig

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.

Gas

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Saddle Rd.

Fort

G

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Scot

land

Ba

y

We

st

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n

Ma

in

Rd

Die

go

Mar

tin

Rive

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& W

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whe

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North

Co

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The

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Maracas Bay & North Coast Santa Cruz

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N

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52

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65

54

59

60

61

62

63

34

31

32 33

35

36

38

3749

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E a s te rn Ma in R

o a d

T o c o M a i n R o a d

Cum

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Bay

Bala

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Bay

Salin

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Mat

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Bay

Toco

Sans Souci

Gra

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Rivi

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Cum

ana

Saly

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Ram

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Saly

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Bay

Gal

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Mat

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Mat

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Grande Riviere Bay

Cum

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Bras

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Tyrico Bay

Yarr

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stan

Ca

ve

Rinc

on

El C

erro

del

Arip

o

Hol

lis

Rese

rvoi

r

(941

m)

Saddle Rd.

North Coast Ro

ad

Maracas Roya l Rd .

Sa d d l e R d .

North C

oast R

d.

Caura Royal Road

Lopinot Rd.

Ar ima-Blanch isseuse Rd .

C u m a c a R o a d

Va

len

cia

Ro

ad

A

r i p o R o a d

Heights of Guanapo Rd. Ea

st e

r n M

ain

Ro

ad

Caur

a

El T

ucuc

he

(936

m)

Uni

vers

ity o

f th

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No

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Co

as

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rail

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Ea

st e

rn M

ain

Rd

.

Pa

ria

Ma

in R

oa

d

Toco

Ma

in R

oad

O'Meara Rd

C h u rch i l l

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s eve

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igh

way

Port of Spain Port of Spain

NO

RT

HE

RN

R

AN

GE

Wal

ler

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d

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Turu

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STA

ND

S

Port

of S

pain

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Barr

ackp

ore

Couv

a, C

hagu

anas

La R

omai

n, G

ulf C

ity

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bad

Prin

ces T

own

Chag

uana

s, C

urep

e, P

ort o

f Sp

ain

San

Fern

ando

Hill

43

Sou

th

ern Main Rd.

Hubert Rance S

t.

Hubert R

ance

St

Vist

abel

la R

d.PT

SC B

us

Term

inus

King

's W

harf

Fish

Mar

ket

San

Fern

ando

G

ener

al H

ospi

tal

Nap

arim

a Bo

wl

San

Fern

ando

Hill

(2

00m

)

Lange St.

Arch

ibal

d St

.

Gup

py S

t.Smart St.

Wad

del S

t.

Mon

tano

St.

Man

jack

St.

Zucher St.

Cent

ral S

t.

Aleo

ng S

t.

Arch

St.

Lam

ble

St.

Ogerally

Alex

ande

r Rd.Crawford St.

Han

key

Lane

Mt.

Mor

iah

Rd.

Circ

ular

Rd.

King St.

St. V

ince

nt R

d.

North Rd.

Chac

on S

t.

Purcell S

t.

Wharton St

.

Cane S

t.

Panc

o La

ne

Alex

ande

r Rd.

Gibbs St.

Rawlin

e St.

Mc L

eeLa

nd St

.

Herr

era

St.

Rost

ant

London St

.

St. J

osep

h Rd

.

Vemnon Joseph

Com

mis

sion

St.

Sinanan St.

Point-a-Pierre Rd.

Solomon St.

Jarv

is St

.

Ram

kine

St. Dos Santos St.

Den

obri

Rien

zi S

t.

Mc

Gilli

vray

St.

Chad

ee S

t.

Napar

ima M

ayar

o

Gul

f City

Mal

lCr

oss

Cros

sing

Sh

oppi

ng C

entr

e

Skin

ner P

ark

Ramnarine Av

Para

dise

Ce

met

ery

To S

olom

on H

ocho

y H

ighw

ay

Max

is fo

r Por

t of

Spai

n

St P

aul's

RC

City

Hal

l

Coee

St.

Drayton St

Dottin St.

Carlton Lane

Bertrand St.

Parr

y St

.

Cooper St.Le G

endr

e

Thor

ne

St.Joseph St.

Laur

ence

St.

Henry St.Lower Hillside St.

Cipero St.

Cric

hlow

St.

Robe

rtso

n St

.

Edw

ard

Lee

St.

Brow

n St

.

Rush

wor

th S

t.

Navet Rd.

Carib

St.

Imrie

St.

Albert Ave.

Blache Fraser St.

Leot

aud

St.

Meade

n St.

Smith St.Bernard St.

Royal Rd.

Church

Sout

h St

.

Winston M

ahab

ir

Newbold St.

Skin

ner S

t.Ha

rt St

.

Cipriani St.

Hobson St.

Moody Stewart St. Pleasantville

Terr.

Pleasantville Ave.

Chac

onia

Ave

.

Butt

erfly

Ave

.

Cassia Ave.

Hibiscus Ce

dar D

r.

Marryat

Clai

re S

t.

Gerbera

Ibis

Dr.Poinsetta

Dr.

Cipero St.

Hol

der S

t.

Scrim

geou

r St.

Ruth

Ave

.

Roodal St.

Eden

St.

Farah St.

Prin

ce C

harle

s St.

Lady

Hai

les A

ve/ R

ienz

i-Kirt

on H

ighw

ay

Todd St.

Shah

St.

Seuk

eran

St.

Pouc

het S

t.

Wes

twoo

d St

.

Park

St.

Don

alds

on S

t.

Scot

t St.

Turton St.

Cipe

ro R

iver

David Fitt St.Princess Margaret St.

Hilda Lazzari Terr.

Richardson St.

Sout

h T

runk

Roa

d

Lady Hailes Ave/ Rienzi-Kirton Highway

Rush

wor

th S

t.

Lewis St.Gordon St.Harris St.

Irving St.

Keat

e St

.

Cour

t St.

Sutt

on S

t. Freeling Gransaull St.Gomez St.

Prince Alfred St.

Prince Albert St.

San

Fern

ando

St.

St. J

ames

St.

Queen St.Independence

Lord

St.

Chancery

Victoria St.

Har

ris P

rom

enad

eH

arris

Pro

men

ade

High

St.

Pointe-a-Pierre

Rd.

Short St.

Penitence St.

Mon Chagrin St.

San Fernando Bypass

Carib

H

ouse

Flamingo

Cres

cent

Pleasantville Circular

Parakeet

Roy Joseph St.

Prince of Wales

Ramasaran

Boulevard

GU

LF O

F PA

RIA

N

Wat

er T

axi

Term

inal

Independence

Ballister Ave.

1

2

3 4

5

6

7

43

San Fernando Bypass

SAN

FER

NA

ND

O


1 2 3 4 5 6 7

TAXI

STA

ND

S

Port

of S

pain

(max

is)

Barr

ackp

ore

Couv

a, C

hagu

anas

La R

omai

n, G

ulf C

ity

Fyza

bad

Prin

ces T

own

Chag

uana

s, C

urep

e, P

ort o

f Sp

ain

San

Fern

ando

Hill

43

Sou

th

ern Main Rd.

Hubert R

ance St.

Hubert R

ance

St

Vist

abel

la R

d.PT

SC B

us

Term

inus

King

's W

harf

Fish

Mar

ket

San

Fern

ando

G

ener

al H

ospi

tal

Nap

arim

a Bo

wl

San

Fern

ando

Hill

(2

00m

)

Lange St.

Arch

ibal

d St

.

Gup

py S

t.Smart St.

Wad

del S

t.

Mon

tano

St.

Man

jack

St.

Zucher St.

Cent

ral S

t.

Aleo

ng S

t.

Arch

St.

Lam

ble

St.

Ogerally

Alex

ande

r Rd.Crawford St.

Han

key

Lane

Mt.

Mor

iah

Rd.

Circ

ular

Rd.

King St.

St. V

ince

nt R

d.

North Rd.

Chac

on S

t.

Purcell S

t.

Wharton St

.

Cane S

t.

Panc

o La

ne

Alex

ande

r Rd.

Gibbs St.

Rawlin

e St.

Mc L

eeLa

nd St

.

Herr

era

St.

Rost

ant

London St

.

St. J

osep

h Rd

.

Vemnon Joseph

Com

mis

sion

St.

Sinanan St.

Point-a-Pierre Rd.

Solomon St.

Jarv

is St

.

Ram

kine

St. Dos Santos St.

Den

obri

Rien

zi S

t.

Mc

Gilli

vray

St.

Chad

ee S

t.

Napar

ima M

ayar

o

Gul

f City

Mal

lCr

oss

Cros

sing

Sh

oppi

ng C

entr

e

Skin

ner P

ark

Ramnarine Av

Para

dise

Ce

met

ery

To S

olom

on H

ocho

y H

ighw

ay

Max

is fo

r Por

t of

Spai

n

St P

aul's

RC

City

Hal

l

Coee

St.

Drayton St

Dottin St.

Carlton Lane

Bertrand St.

Parr

y St

.

Cooper St.Le G

endr

e

Thor

ne

St.Joseph St.

Laur

ence

St.

Henry St.Lower Hillside St.

Cipero St.

Cric

hlow

St.

Robe

rtso

n St

.

Edw

ard

Lee

St.

Brow

n St

.

Rush

wor

th S

t.

Navet Rd.

Carib

St.

Imrie

St.

Albert Ave.

Blache Fraser St.

Leot

aud

St.

Meade

n St.

Smith St.Bernard St.

Royal Rd.

Church

Sout

h St

.

Winston M

ahab

ir

Newbold St.

Skin

ner S

t.Ha

rt St

.

Cipriani St.

Hobson St.

Moody Stewart St. Pleasantville

Terr.

Pleasantville Ave.

Chac

onia

Ave

.

Butt

erfly

Ave

.

Cassia Ave.

Hibiscus Ce

dar D

r.

Marryat

Clai

re S

t.

Gerbera

Ibis

Dr.Poinsetta

Dr.

Cipero St.

Hol

der S

t.

Scrim

geou

r St.

Ruth

Ave

.

Roodal St.

Eden

St.

Farah St.

Prin

ce C

harle

s St.

Lady

Hai

les A

ve/ R

ienz

i-Kirt

on H

ighw

ay

Todd St.

Shah

St.

Seuk

eran

St.

Pouc

het S

t.

Wes

twoo

d St

.

Park

St.

Don

alds

on S

t.

Scot

t St.

Turton St.

Cipe

ro R

iver

David Fitt St.Princess Margaret St.

Hilda Lazzari Terr.

Richardson St.So

uth

Tru

nk R

oad

Lady Hailes Ave/ Rienzi-Kirton Highway

Rush

wor

th S

t.

Lewis St.Gordon St.Harris St.

Irving St.

Keat

e St

.

Cour

t St.

Sutt

on S

t. Freeling Gransaull St.Gomez St.

Prince Alfred St.

Prince Albert St.

San

Fern

ando

St.

St. J

ames

St.

Queen St.Independence

Lord

St.

Chancery

Victoria St.

Har

ris P

rom

enad

eH

arris

Pro

men

ade

High

St.

Pointe-a-Pierre

Rd.

Short St.

Penitence St.

Mon Chagrin St.

San Fernando Bypass

Carib

H

ouse

Flamingo

Cres

cent

Pleasantville Circular

Parakeet

Roy Joseph St.

Prince of Wales

Ramasaran

Boulevard

GU

LF O

F PA

RIA

N

Wat

er T

axi

Term

inal

Independence

Ballister Ave.

1

2

3 4

5

6

7

43

San Fernando Bypass


N

52

1

2

3

4

5 6

9

8

7

1012

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16

20

19

18

21

2223

25

29

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27

30

31

33

34

35

3640

38

37

24

26

32

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41

42

43

44

47

4849

50

51

Little Rockly Bay

Canoe BaySandy Point

Barbados Bay

Bacolet Point

Mt. Irvine Bay

Hillsborough Bay

Bacolet Bay

Smith's Island

Granby PointBuccoo Bay

Store Bay

Arnos Vale Bay

Back Bay

Stonehaven BayGreat Courland Bay

Turtle Beach

King Peter's Bay

Culloden Bay

Castara Bay

Parlatuvier Bay

Bloody Bay

Englishman's Bay

Flagsta HillPirate's

Bay

Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay

Sisters Rocks

Goat Island

Tyrrel's Bay

Goodwood

Prince's Bay

King's Bay

Delaford Bay

Carapuse Bay

Goldsborough

Richmond Island

Pinfold Bay

Hillsborough DamBelle Garden

Glamorgan

Argyle Falls

Richmond

Pembroke

Runnemede

L'Anse Fourmi

Moriah

Parrot Hill

Castara

Mt. Dillon

Parlatuvier

Mason Hall

Craig Hall

Mt. St George

Les CoteauxArnos Vale

Culloden

St Giles Islands

Mt. Irvine

Black Rock

Buccoo

ANR Robinson International

Airport

LOWLANDS

SCARBOROUGH

Signal Hill

Bon Accord Lagoon

Milford Rd.

Lambeau

Bethel Patience Hill

Shir

van

Rd.

P lymouth Rd. North

side Rd.

Orange Hill Rd.

Pigeon Point

Fort Milford

BUCCOO REEF & NYLON POOL

Arnos Vale Estate & Waterwheel

Ft. King George

Little Tobago or Bird of Paradise Island

Roxborough

Delaford

King's Bay

Crown Point

MAIN RIDGE FOREST RESERVE

Adventure Farm &Nature Reserve

Grafton Sanctuary

Fort Bennett

C l a u d e No e l Hi g

h way

Speyside

Rockly Bay

Plymouth

Charlotteville

Cu e River Nature Retreat

Rainbow Waterfall

Richmond Great House

TobagoCocoaEstates Bellevue

Gulf City

Scarborough Mall

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

18

19

20

21

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32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

47

48

49

50

51

52

Fort Milford

Kimme Museum

Fort Bennett

Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary

Plymouth

Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve

Arnos Vale

Cu�e RiverNature Retreat

Castara

Fort King George

Botanical Gardens

Scarborough

Rockly Bay

Granby Point

Tobago Cocoa Estates

Richmond GreatHouse

King’s Bay

Speyside

Flagsta Hill

Charlotteville

Buccoo Reef

Nylon Pool

Little Tobago

Argyle Falls

Rainbow Waterfall

Bon Accord Lagoon

Pigeon Point

Store Bay

Englishman‘s Bay

Bloody Bay

Back Bay

Buccoo

Canoe Bay

Castara

Grange Bay

Mt. Irvine Golf Course

Great Courland Bay

King Peter's Bay

Mt. Irvine

Parlatuvier

Stonehaven Bay

Bacolet Bay

Bellevue

Little Rockly Bay

Man-O'-War Bay

Pirate's Bay

Richmond Beach

Batteaux Bay/ Blue Waters

Gulf City Lowlands Mall & Cineplex

Man-o’-warBay

Windward Road

TObAgO


N

52

1

2

3

4

5 6

9

8

7

1012

13

14

15

16

20

19

18

21

2223

25

29

28

27

30

31

33

34

35

3640

38

37

24

26

32

39

41

42

43

44

47

4849

50

51

Little Rockly Bay

Canoe BaySandy Point

Barbados Bay

Bacolet Point

Mt. Irvine Bay

Hillsborough Bay

Bacolet Bay

Smith's Island

Granby PointBuccoo Bay

Store Bay

Arnos Vale Bay

Back Bay

Stonehaven BayGreat Courland Bay

Turtle Beach

King Peter's Bay

Culloden Bay

Castara Bay

Parlatuvier Bay

Bloody Bay

Englishman's Bay

Flagsta HillPirate's

Bay

Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay

Sisters Rocks

Goat Island

Tyrrel's Bay

Goodwood

Prince's Bay

King's Bay

Delaford Bay

Carapuse Bay

Goldsborough

Richmond Island

Pinfold Bay

Hillsborough DamBelle Garden

Glamorgan

Argyle Falls

Richmond

Pembroke

Runnemede

L'Anse Fourmi

Moriah

Parrot Hill

Castara

Mt. Dillon

Parlatuvier

Mason Hall

Craig Hall

Mt. St George

Les CoteauxArnos Vale

Culloden

St Giles Islands

Mt. Irvine

Black Rock

Buccoo

ANR Robinson International

Airport

LOWLANDS

SCARBOROUGH

Signal Hill

Bon Accord Lagoon

Milford Rd.

Lambeau

Bethel Patience Hill

Shir

van

Rd.

P lymouth Rd. North

side Rd.

Orange Hill Rd.

Pigeon Point

Fort Milford

BUCCOO REEF & NYLON POOL

Arnos Vale Estate & Waterwheel

Ft. King George

Little Tobago or Bird of Paradise Island

Roxborough

Delaford

King's Bay

Crown Point

MAIN RIDGE FOREST RESERVE

Adventure Farm &Nature Reserve

Grafton Sanctuary

Fort Bennett

C l a u d e No e l Hi g

h way

Speyside

Rockly Bay

Plymouth

Charlotteville

Cu e River Nature Retreat

Rainbow Waterfall

Richmond Great House

TobagoCocoaEstates Bellevue

Gulf City

Scarborough Mall

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

47

48

49

50

51

52

Fort Milford

Kimme Museum

Fort Bennett

Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary

Plymouth

Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve

Arnos Vale

Cu�e RiverNature Retreat

Castara

Fort King George

Botanical Gardens

Scarborough

Rockly Bay

Granby Point

Tobago Cocoa Estates

Richmond GreatHouse

King’s Bay

Speyside

Flagsta Hill

Charlotteville

Buccoo Reef

Nylon Pool

Little Tobago

Argyle Falls

Rainbow Waterfall

Bon Accord Lagoon

Pigeon Point

Store Bay

Englishman‘s Bay

Bloody Bay

Back Bay

Buccoo

Canoe Bay

Castara

Grange Bay

Mt. Irvine Golf Course

Great Courland Bay

King Peter's Bay

Mt. Irvine

Parlatuvier

Stonehaven Bay

Bacolet Bay

Bellevue

Little Rockly Bay

Man-O'-War Bay

Pirate's Bay

Richmond Beach

Batteaux Bay/ Blue Waters

Gulf City Lowlands Mall & Cineplex

Man-o’-warBay

Windward Road


important info

To enter Trinidad and Tobago by boat, you will need a clearance certificate from the last port of call, and the ves-

sel’s registration certificate (or authorisation for use), as well as your personal passport (and visa if required).

Trinidad: check in with Customs & Immigra-tion at Crews Inn on the Chaguaramas penin-sula, west of Port of Spain. There’s sheltered anchorage, maintained by the Yachting As-sociation; plus maintenance and repair yards, marinas and other essential services.

TRAVEL NOTESTobago: check in with Customs & Immigra-tion in Scarborough or Charlotteville. There is no official anchorage site, but popular spots include Mount Irvine Bay, Grafton Bay, Store Bay and Englishman’s Bay on the west coast, and Anse Bateau in the southeast (also a good fuelling point).

Cruise ship passengers should confirm docu-mentation requirements with their cruise line or travel agent before setting out.

Tour operators

The Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association repre-sents local tour operators and keeps

listings of its members and their services. www.ttitoa.com

The Trinidad and Tobago Tour Guide As-sociation represents accredited and certi-fied tour guides and can recommend private tours. [email protected]

The Tobago Tour Guide Association rep-resents Tobago-based guides and tour opera-tors. Contact Harris McDonald, president of the association, at [email protected].

Getting around

Authorised private taxis and dispatchers are stationed at both airports. Taxis are not metered, so confirm the fare with the driver in advance. Standard fares to specific areas should be on display in the arrivals area. Au-thorised private taxis are identified by licence plates beginning with “H” (for hire). Interna-tional agencies and well-established local companies offer car rentals at both airports.

Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles from Port of Spain)Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10 km/7 miles from Scarborough)


Route taxis are ordinary cars registered as taxis, also with “H” licence plates. They are shared and follow spe-cific routes, picking up and dropping off passengers along the way. However, for greater comfort, you can pay for two or three seats in the back.

Buses operate from Port of Spain at City Gate, the head-quarters of the Public Trans-port Service Corporation (PTSC). You can catch a bus to most towns, sometimes on an “express” basis, and from hubs in Chaguanas and San Fernando (King’s Wharf) to more remote towns. In To-bago, the main hub is Sang-ster’s Hill in Scarborough. Air-conditioned and com-fortable, buses are a cheap and safe way to see the coun-try. Tickets must be bought before boarding. Check the Public Transport Service Cor-poration website (www.ptsc.co.tt) for schedules and fares. The company also runs Know Your Country Tours – call 623-2341, ext. 234, or check the website for details.

DrivingWe drive on the left. In Trinidad, the speed limit is 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas and 80kph (50mph) elsewhere. In Tobago, it’s generally 50kph (30mph).

Driving permits: Visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a valid foreign or international licence.

Warnings: • By law, everyone in the car must have their seatbelts

fastened.• Do not expect much defensive driving. Crowded roads

and aggressive or guerrilla tactics can make driving an unnerving experience. If you find yourself driving be-hind a route taxi or maxi-taxi, remember these are ve-hicles that stop abruptly and often.

• Don’t drive after drinking. Police are equipped with “breathalyser” equipment, and it is not wise to be caught on the road under the influence of alcohol.

• Avoid rush hours, especially on highways and in Port of Spain and other urban areas. Traffic jams can be hor-rendous.

• Check signs for restricted parking, and do not park ille-gally. Tow trucks called “wreckers” remove badly parked cars with glee, and a tiresome search and a fine ensue.

Note: Our proximity to South America and its attendant economic imperatives mean many signs in Trinidad (less so in Tobago) are in both English and Spanish. You may not always know where you are when you are here, but you will often be lost in two languages.

Maxi-taxis (“maxis”)

Have fun and a true Trini experience by hopping on a maxi and mingling with the locals. Most are air-conditioned

and play music from the radio. This is one sure way to get a feel for Trini culture, lingo and

their flamboyant personalities. Fares are fixed and quite cheap. The 12- and 25-seat mini-buses operate along set routes and have li-cence plates starting with H. They pick up and set down passengers anywhere along the way.

Car rentals: local and international rental companies operate in both islands and at both airports. It’s not recommended that you rent a vehicle on your first trip to Trinidad, unless you are really adventurous. Driving here can seem like an adventure park ride.


Water taxiThis service runs Monday to Saturday between Port of Spain and San Fernando, and from the capital to Chaguaramas. Cost: PoS–San Fernando – TT$15 one way; PoS–Chaguaramas – TT$10 one way, senior citizens 65+ free (off-peak). Tel. 800-4987, www.nidco.co.tt

Inter-island ferry: This daily service (usually multiple sailings) can take anywhere between two and a half to three and a half hours, depending on the weather and the sea. Tickets may be purchased at the ferry terminals, in City Gate, Port of Spain, and at travel agents throughout Trinidad and Tobago. ID needed. Adults: TT$50 one way, children (3-12) TT$25 one way; infants and senior citizens (65+) free; cars TT$150 one way, TT$250 return, plus fare for each passen-ger. Tel. 625-4906; www.ttitferry.com

AirbridgeCaribbean Airlines operates several daily flights between the two islands – flight time is ap-proximately 20 minutes. One way: Adults TT$150, children (3-12) TT$100. Tel. 625-7200; www.caribbean-airlines.com

PracticalitiesMoneyCurrency: the Trinidad and Tobago dol-lar (TT$) floats against the US$ at a rate of around US$1 to TT$6.45. The daily papers carry current rates, but the local dollar tends to float in much the same place.

Cash: credit and debit cards are fine for most purposes, but don’t rely on them in more remote areas, where it’s best to have some cash handy. Cash machines are plen-tiful on both islands. For cash transactions, businesses and individuals may accept US$, but at less than the going bank rate. Banks are closed weekends.

Taxes: hotels add 10% room tax and 10% ser-vice. A 15% VAT (value-added tax) is applied to most goods and services.

utilitiesElectricity: 115v/230v, 60 Hz.Water: Tap water is safe to drink, though an ageing infrastructure does deliver occasional mains bursts and water shortages. Boil or fil-ter water if you want to be doubly sure.Mail: TT Post operates the national mail ser-vice, and partners with TNT for international express mail services. DHL, FedEx and UPS are among courier companies operating locally.

PhonesCountry phone code: 868 (regional code: 1).Mobiles: Bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate GSM networks. 4G broadband network has been introduced. To avoid roaming charges it is best to buy a local prepaid SIM card. Bmo-bile and Digicel kiosks are ubiquitous, espe-cially at major shopping centres and ports of entry, such as Piarco Airport. Top-up cards for pre-paid plans are widely available.


Public wi-fi• Flow’s F-Spots are available free at dozens of outlets including Rituals (coffee shops), Pizza

Boys, Church’s Chicken, Mario’s (pizza), and Boomer’s (sandwiches). • Bmobile customers can register for free wi-fi at over 50 Trinidad locations including Piarco

airport, the Chaguaramas boardwalk, Maracas Bay, the ferry terminal, Ariapita Avenue in Woodbrook, the Cruise Ship Complex, West Mall, Grand Bazaar, Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall and Gulf City Mall.

• In Tobago, Bzone offers wi-fi at the ferry terminal, Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Gulf City Mall (Lowlands).

Essential phone numbersAmbulance (to public hospitals) 811Coastguard 634-4439/4235; search & rescue 634-4440Fire 990Police 999 or 555 (Trinidad) 639-2520 or 639-5590 (Tobago)

Decompression chamber 660-4369 (Roxborough, TobagoEMS (emergency medical services) 624-4343 (north Trinidad) 653-4343 (south/central Trinidad) 639-4444 (Tobago)Office of Disaster Preparedness 640-1285 (Trinidad) 660-7489 (Tobago) 511 (emergencies)

Visitor informationDivision of Tourism, Tobago 639-2125 www.visittobago.gov.ttGovernment services online www.ttconnect.gov.ttImmigration Division: www.immigration.gov.ttTrinidad 625-3571 Tobago 639-2681 Tobago House of Assembly 639-3421 www.tha.gov.ttTourism Development Company 675-7034 www.tdc.co.tt www.gotrinidadandtobago.comTourist Information Offices:ANR Robinson Airport, Tobago 639-0509 Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago 635-0934Piarco Airport, Trinidad 669-5196


festivals & coe

Few things capture the vivacity and rich heritage of Trinidad and Tobago as the many festivals that we cel-ebrate throughout the year. Our reputation as a multi-

cultural Mecca remains strong as we continue to celebrate life, traditions and a sense of community. It’s not true that we have a public holiday every week in this country – it just feels that way.

Many of the festivals are religious in origin, with the Hindu ones tending to be the most colourful and dramatic, such as Divali, Ramleela and Holi. The many beliefs that coexist, side by side, and usually welcoming to all, make Trinidad and To-bago a veritable feast of traditions, rituals, fashion and (of course) foods.

Note: Not every fete, festival, ritual or celebration is listed here, and several of those listed are moveable feasts – subject to change or not confirmed until quite soon before they occur. Trinidad and Tobago is still a country where the newspaper is important. Check the national newspapers for advertisements or articles on upcoming events.

FESTIVALS – and calendar of events

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Tobago’s answer to Carnival, the annual Heritage Festival is a celebration of music, dance and cuisine, with productions held every evening in different villages around the island.


January 1 New Year’s DayJanuary 19 Annual Calypso Queen

Competition (Queen’s Hall)

February 16 & 17 Carnival Monday and Tuesday

February 19 Chinese New Year February 20-22 Talk Tent (calypso and

comedy) (QH)

March 6 Phagwa (Holi)March 21 Jazz Artists on The

Greens (The Greens at Farm Road, St Joseph) www.jaotg.com

Late March Caribbean Institute of Astronomy’s annual Star Party (Old US tracking station, Macqueripe, Chaguaramas)

March 30 Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day

April 3-6 Easter WeekendApril 29 – May 3 Bocas Lit Fest Tobago Jazz Experience April 17-19 Metamorphosis

20th Anniversary Dance Season (QH)

May Salsa Fiesta TnT (QH)May 7 Feast of La Divina

Pastora (Siparia Fete)May 30 Indian Arrival Day

June 4 Corpus Christi Mid-June Ganga Dhaaraa June 19 Labour Day June 20-22 Street Arts Festival

(Woodbrook)June 29 St Peter’s Day International Opera

Festival (QH)

July 2-6 Mango Festival at University of West IndiesJuly TBD Eid-ul-Fitr July 10-12 Marionettes Chorale’s mid-

year concert (QH)mid-July to early August Tobago Heritage FestivalJuly 30-August 3 Great Fete Weekend

August 1 Emancipation Day August Oshun River Festival Late August Santa Rosa Carib Festival August 31 Independence Day

Mid-September t+t film festivalSeptember 24 Republic Day September 29-October 4 Tobago International

Cycling Classic

October TBD Hosay October TBD Ramleela (two weeks

before Divali)

November TBD Divali November Paranging starts/Paramin

annual parang festival

December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Boxing Day

March/AprilCARINA Star partyIn the heart of Tucker Valley, in the Chaguara-mas National Park, an old American tracking station is the venue for an annual star-gazing party. On a plateau, hill up on a hill, you have a panoramic view of the surrounding terrain. From here, you can watch the sun make a spectacular descent into the sea. An old ra-dio dish creates just the right backdrop and ambience as you and other sky-lovers watch the planet, constellations and stars. Bring a telescope or binoculars, if you have any.


safety


A note on safety

The vast majority of people in Trinidad and Tobago like to enjoy their day, complete their business (or pleasure), and sleep well at night. But, as in most parts of the world, crime is a concern.

The usual precautions apply, e.g. do not carry large amounts of cash or valuables; don’t flaunt tempting jewellery; keep an eye on bags and laptops; don’t leave wallets and purses visible in back pockets or handbags; lock car doors; avoid isolated places and situations, especially after dark; and be at least as alert and safety-conscious as you would be at home.

We recommend using certified and accredited tour guides and operators, especially in more remote areas. Remember that authorised, licensed taxis are identified by registration plates starting with “H”. Do not hesitate to seek current local advice and knowledge.

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Also Avai lable at:

www.houseofjaipur.com14 O'Connor Street, Woodbrook. Trinidad

Tel: 868-624-7465 Email: [email protected]


2015


discover trinidad & tobago travel guide 2015 (issue #26)

Travel