A

20th ANNIVERSARYISSUEANNIVERSARYISSUE

1

Discover Tobago 82

CONTENTSWelcome 5

Your T&T directory 118

Discover Trinidad 20

Accommodation 22

Arts & entertainment 31

Beaches 36

Business 40

Carnival 44

Eating out 49

Environment 53

Festivals 59

Nightlife 63

Shopping 67

Sightseeing 71

Sports 78

Accommodation 86

Arts & entertainment 89

Beaches 92

Eating out 96

Eco-adventure 98

Festivals 102

Shopping 106

Sightseeing 109

Sports 114

Reference 118

Discover the other 136

Maps

Central Trinidad 128

Northeast Trinidad 127

Northwest Trinidad 126

Port of Spain 124

San Fernando 130

Scarborough 133

South Trinidad 132

Tobago 134

Trinidad 122

Service directory 118

Production teamEditors Caroline Taylor, Jeremy TaylorDesign and *photography Aisha Provoteaux, Ariann Thompson* except where otherwise creditedSales Denise Chin, Jacqueline SmithWriters Jason Arthur, Laura Dowrich-Phillips, Judy Raymond, Caroline Taylor, Ariann Thompson, Guyanne WilsonEditorial assistant Mirissa De FourProduction Joanne Mendes, Jacqueline SmithCover photo by Ariann Thompson Printed by The Office Authority

A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP), 6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad & TobagoT: (868) 622-3821 • F: (868) 628-0639 • E: info@discovertnt.com • W: www.discovertnt.com

And connect with us online on:• Facebook www.facebook.com/discovertnt • Twitter www.twitter.com/meppublishers • Blog: http://meppublishers.blogspot.com

© 2011 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP)

Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this

publication may be reproduced in any

form whatsoever without the prior written

consent of the publisher.

Calendar 2011 16

History 15

T&T in brief 7

Travel tips 11

COVER PHOTO: The river from Argyle Falls, Tobago ABOVE LEFT: Clear-water pool, Asa Wright Nature Centre, Trinidad

ABOVE RIGHT: Barbados Bay, Tobago, where a fresh fish market operates Monday – Saturday

Vacation

Family

Quality Service

Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island

Ferry Service

T&

TINTER - ISLAN

TRANSPORTATION CO.L

T&

TINTER - ISLAND

TRANSPORTATION CO.LT

D

5

We will cover as much as we can in these few

short pages, and share some of our favourite

places and pastimes. They are so different,

these two small Caribbean islands near the

coast of South America. Trinidad has the cultural

energy, the buzz, the instinct for satire and

celebration; it is resource-rich with oil and gas,

and environmentally rich too, as any naturalist

will tell you. Tobago meanwhile is legendary for

its peace and calm, its glorious beaches, its

affection for the old-time ways.

Four sections

To help you explore these two contrasting

islands, we have divided this book into four

sections. The first (pages 1 – 19) provides

basic practical information common to

both Tobago and Trinidad — money matters,

transport, headline events. The second

(pages 20 – 78) explores Trinidad, the larger

island, with different areas of interest arranged

alphabetically, from Accommodation to Sports.

The third section (pages 79 – 123) does the

same for Tobago. The final section (pages 114

– 132) contains maps of both islands and their

biggest cities and towns. Here you will also

find a Service Directory, listing our advertising

partners, who are more than ready to help

you with any aspect of your visit; and finally a

page encouraging you not to leave Trinidad &

Tobago without seeing both islands.

our 20th anniversary

With this edition, Discover Trinidad & Tobago

celebrates 20 years of publication. It is the only

local guide to have published for so long, year

in, year out. In that time we’ve produced 22

editions, become the most sustainably produced

local guide, and worked with some of the finest

national and international writers, photographers,

editors, and designers.

Discover online

We have also amassed an archive of invaluable

material on T&T from these outstanding

contributors, who know this country and care

about getting things right. You can see all of

it on our new website, www.discovertnt.com,

where we hope you will find everything you need

to explore every aspect of T&T life

and culture.

Trinidad & Tobago’s tourism authorities run an annual inspection programme called Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC). A special logo is used to indicate approval. Current information can be found at www.gotrinidadandtobago.com.

Advertising in Discover is open to anybody, but publication of an advertisement does not imply editorial or official endorsement, quality assurance, or participation in the TTTIC programme.

Every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at press time. But things in T&T change swiftly, and we make no guarantees about information presented. If you have any suggestions or queries, we would be delighted to hear from you: we take all feedback seriously.

WELCOME!Thank you for choosing Trinidad & Tobago. And thank you for

choosing Discover Trinidad & Tobago to show you around.

sTAndArds& fEEdbAck

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E w E l c o m E

7 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T & T I n b r I E f

T&T IN BRIEFQuick facts

capital: the national capital is Port of Spain, above (pop 45,000, 270,000 metropolitan).

Tobago’s capital is Scarborough (pop 17,000)

airports: Crown Point International Airport,

Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough);

Piarco International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17

miles from Port of Spain)

climate: tropical. Dry season January – May,

wet June – December (islands just south of the

normal hurricane belt). Temperature range 72 –

95°F (22 – 35°C); average 83°F (29°C)

highest point: Trinidad’s El Cerro del Aripo

(940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge

(549m/1,860ft)

location: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad and Tobago

33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from

Venezuelan coast

size: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or

48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2

(1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles)

time zone: GMT -4, EST +1

Government:

• system: parliamentary democracy

• ruling party: the People’s Partnership

• prime minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar

• president: George Maxwell Richards

• opposition party: People’s National

Movement

language: English (official)

Population: 1.2 million (July 2010):

40% Indian, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed.

50,000 (primarily African descent) in Tobago

religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other Christian

31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8%

A yellow poui tree in the Queen’s Park Savannah (Nisha Kong)

9

Caribbean Airlines and Air Jamaica offer the best valueand the best travel experience. Come... fly with us.

Caribbean AirlinesAntigua • Barbados • Caracas • Guyana • Jamaica • New York/JFKSouth Florida • St. Maarten • Suriname • Toronto • Trinidad & Tobago Air JamaicaFort Lauderdale • Grenada • Kingston • Montego BayNassau • New York/JFK • Philadelphia • Toronto

country phone code: +868

mail: TTPost (national mail

service); plus FedEx, DHL,

UPS and others

landline telephone: Telecommunications Services

of Trinidad & Tobago

(TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid

international phone cards

available

mobile telephone: bmobile

(TSTT) and Digicel operate on

GSM networks; prepaid SIM

cards available for unlocked

phones

Press: three daily national

newspapers (Express,

Guardian, Newsday), seven

weeklies (including Tobago

News), one tri-weekly

radio: 37 FM stations; two

AM stations

Television: 12 local stations,

five free-to-air (NCC-4, CCN

TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and

C-TV), seven available only

via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV,

Parliament Channel, Synergy,

Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV);

some only available on one

island

Practicalities

currency: Trinidad and

Tobago dollar (TT$);

US$1=TT$6.30

driving: on the left. Trinidad

speed limits 80kph (50mph) on

highways and 55kph (34mph)

in settled areas; 50kph

(32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts

required. Visitors can drive up

to 90 days on valid foreign/

international licence

Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz

money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/

debit cards and travellers’

cheques in general use

Taxes: 10% room tax + 10%

service at hotels; VAT 15% on

goods and services

water: tap water safe to drink

(boil to be extra safe)

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T & T I n

b r I E f

Piarco Airport; Rituals coffee shops (nationwide); Sweet Lime Restaurant (Woodbrook); Trincity Mall (food court); and a growing number of other locations

PUblIc wI-fIArEAs

Media and communications

Scarlet ibis among the mangrove at Caroni Swamp (Maria Huggins)

10 11

TRAvEL TIPShow to reach Trinidad & Tobago

by air: scheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American

Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental,

Copa, LIAT, Monarch, Spirit, Suriname Airways, and Virgin

Atlantic. Others offer charter flights

by sea: the peak cruise ship season is November – April,

with visits from Fred Olsen, Holland America, Ocean Village,

Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, and Windstar lines

on arrival: you need a passport valid for three months beyond

your intended stay. Non-residents need documentation of

return or onward travel and a valid local address. Visas are

generally not required for visits up to 30 days. For yacht arrivals,

clearance certificate from the last port of call and the vessel’s

registration certificate (or authorisation for use) are required

how to move around in T&TTo and from the airports: authorised taxis operate

outside arrivals halls at Piarco

and Crown Point airports;

check the approved rates (on

display at the taxi stands)

Private taxis: have to be

summoned by phone (check

Yellow Pages)

car rental: local and

international companies have

offices at the airports

water taxi: a regular water taxi service (above) links Port of Spain with San Fernando. The journey

time is around 45 minutes and the one-way fare TT$15. The service is operated by the National

Infrastructure Development Company (623-0310, nidco.co.tt). At press time, four new vessels had

joined the operation; there was discussion about adding new stops (Chaguanas, Point Fortin) and

new routes (to Venezuela and nearby islands), and the need to increase the fare to TT$20 — check

discovertnt.com for updated information.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s

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republic bank

Tour operators: see directory

on pages 118 – 21

buses: operate from hubs in

Port of Spain (City Gate, on

South Quay), Chaguanas, and

King’s Wharf, San Fernando

to most of Trinidad; and from

Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough,

to most parts of Tobago.

Many are new, articulated,

air-conditioned vehicles. Fares

are low; schedules can be

checked at ptsc.co.tt

Inter-island ferries: see

page 136

Fleets of privately operated, unscheduled maxi-taxis (12 – 25 seat small vans or mini-buses) and route taxis (ordinary cars) operate specific routes, picking up passengers and dropping them off by request. Maxi-taxis have coloured stripes to indicate the area they serve. Legal, registered taxis have licence plates beginning with h and are unmetered, so confirm the fare in advance.

Public taxis operate from different stands depending on the route they take:

Port of Spain to: Route taxi stand:

Cascade Charlotte and Prince Streets

Chaguanas Broadway and Independence

Square

Curepe – Sangre Grande lower Henry Street

Diego Martin/Petit Valley South Quay and Abercromby

Street

Maraval Duke and Charlotte Streets

San Fernando Broadway and Independence

Square

San Juan lower Charlotte Street

St Ann’s/St James Hart Street

Wrightson Road lower Chacon Street

Long Circular Road lower Chacon Street

Chaguaramas Park and St Vincent Streets

Chaguanas to:

Couva & nearby towns higher Southern Main Road

Curepe Chaguanas Main Road

Port of Spain lower Southern Main Road

San Fernando to:

All areas see map, page 130

Scarborough to:

All areas Carrington Street

PUblIc TAXIs

how to contact...

division of Tourism, Tobago: 639-2125,

visittobago.gov.tt

Immigration division: 625-

3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681

(Tobago), immigration.gov.tt

Tobago House of Assembly: 639-3421, tha.gov.tt

Tourism development company: 675-7034, tdc.

co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago.

com

Tourist information offices: 639-0509 (Crown Point

Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise

Ship Complex, Tobago); 669-

5196 (Piarco Airport)

Trinidad & Tobago government online: ttconnect.gov.tt

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s

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maxi-taxis: depart from City Gate on South Quay, or from the

corner of South Quay and Wrightson Road, in Port of Spain;

in San Fernando from Queen Street or St James Street; and in

Tobago from lower Scarborough opposite the port.

Colour Route

Black San Fernando – Princes Town, connections to Mayaro

Blue Tobago

Brown San Fernando – La Romaine – Siparia – Point Fortin

Green Port of Spain – Chaguanas – San Fernando

Red Port of Spain – Arima, connections to

Blanchisseuse/Matelot

Yellow Port of Spain – Diego Martin – Chaguaramas

T r AV E l T I P s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

like much of the world, the islands are affected by crime, particularly Trinidad.

Always: drive with extreme care ... leave valuables at home or well concealed ... walk in company ... lock your vehicle ... lock your room/house door ... close windows at night or if you are going out ... be aware of your surroundings ... raise an alarm and head to the nearest police station if you suspect you are being followed

never: venture into deserted or unfamiliar areas alone ... wear extravagant jewellery ... leave handbags or wallets lying around ... use an ABM if you sense someone suspicious nearby (if your card gets stuck, call the bank immediately) ... leave valuables in your car ... leave car windows down when stopping, especially at night ... engage in any altercations with strangers

Sustainable travelBoth climate change and globalisation can hit developing island

nations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the

islands’ natural and cultural treasures:

buy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised

retailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food

and souvenirs (not made from endangered species)

fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon

dioxide emissions from your flight

mind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs

when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t

let your car idle; keep your tyres inflated; try to carpool; and when

you can, walk or cycle

PrEcAUTIons

Ambulance (public hospitals): 811

crime stoppers: 800-TIPS,

crimestopperstt.com

Ems (emergency medical

services): 624-4343 (north

Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/

central Trinidad), 639-4444

(Tobago)

fire: 990

Hyperbaric medical facility: 660-4369 (Roxborough,

Tobago)

Office of Disaster Preparedness: 640-1285

(Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago)

Police: 999 or 555 (Trinidad);

639-2520/5590 (Tobago)

Pre-Columbian timesBoth islands settled by Amerindian tribes migrating northwards from the South American mainland from

around 5,000 BC

hISTORY

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E H I s T o r Y

tobago

1498 On his third voyage, Columbus

sights Tobago and calls it Magdalena

1627 – 1650 Various attempts at European

settlement

1768 Tobago Assembly established

1672 – 1781 British, Dutch, French jostling for

control

1781 French sugar colony

1814 British sugar colony

1838 End of slavery

1889 Under Trinidad control;

Assembly disbanded

trinidad

1498 Columbus lands in Trinidad, naming

it after the Trinity

1498 – 1797 Neglected Spanish colony;

Amerindians decimated

late 18c French Catholic planters arrive;

Africans imported as slaves

1797 British colony

1838 End of slavery

1845 – 1917 144,000 indentured labourers

imported from India

1858 British start trying to suppress

Carnival

Separate colonies

A single nationunder British rule

1898 Tobago fully merged with Trinidad

1903 “Water Riots” in Port of Spain, Red House burned down

1925 First national elections, with limited franchise

1937 Oilfield and labour strikes

1945 Universal adult suffrage

1945 Public emergence of steelbands

1956 Internal self-government

Independence1962 Independence from Britain

1970 “Black Power” uprising

1976 Republic within the Commonwealth

1980 Tobago House of Assembly restored

1990 Unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist Jamaat al-Muslimeen

2010 Most recent general election

Emergency numbers

16 17

JANUARYThe Carnival season begins. During the month, the parties and panyards, the entertainers and mas camps get under way in earnest

Also: New Year’s Day (public holiday) • Sailing and cricket seasons begin • Tobago

Carnival Caravan • Harvest festivals in Tobago (Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Garden, Plymouth, Mt Pleasant)

FEBRUARYThe Carnival season – a long one this year – is in top gear

Also: Tobago Carnival Caravan • Tobago

Carnival Regatta (Tobago) • Harvest

festivals in Tobago (Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, Franklyn, Bon Accord)

MARCHCarnival reaches its climax on Monday 7 and Tuesday 8, after a week of big shows (Soca Monarch, Panorama, Dimanche Gras), and is followed by cool-downs at beaches and at Argyle Falls, Tobago

In sport: Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open •

Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament

Also: Chinese New Year on the 3rd (the year of the Rabbit) • Jazz Artists on the

Greens • Hindu spring festival of Phagwa (Holi) • Turtle nesting season begins • Public holiday on the 30th for Spiritual

“Shouter” Baptist Liberation Day, commemorating the end of the colonial ban on the “Shouter” Baptist faith • Harvest

festivals in Tobago (Mt St George, Mason Hall, Roxborough, Bon Accord)

CALENDAR 2011

C A L E N D A R D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M

APRILA month for music: Pan Jazz in de Yard (Trinidad) • Jazz Artists on the Greens (Pigeon Point, Tobago) • Tobago Jazz Experience and Jazz on the Beach (Tobago) • Pan in the 21st Century (Trinidad)

Also: the long Easter

weekend, with public holidays on Friday 22 and Monday 25: horse-racing at the Santa Rosa track in Arima (Trinidad), goat and crab races in Mt Pleasant (Monday) and Buccoo (Tuesday) • Point Fortin

Borough Day: a week of J’Ouvert, mas, pan and parties • Trade & Investment

Convention (Trinidad) • Goodwood harvest festival (Tobago) • T&T Literary

Festival

MAYA month of food and fashion: Taste Trinidad & Tobago celebrates the islands’ culinary skills • Tobago stages its Culinary Festival • Trinidad & Tobago Fashion Week

Also: a public holiday for Indian Arrival Day on the 30th, celebrating the arrival of the first Indians in 1845 • Beacon Cycling Series • Rainbow Cup International

Triathlon (Tobago) • La

Divina Pastora (Siparia,

Trinidad) • Maypole Festival (Tobago) • Rapsofest: the Power of the Oral Traditions • Harvest festivals in Tobago (Whim, Delaford, Belle Garden and Mason Hall)

JUNEA heavy emphasis on commemoration this month: young Tobagonians celebrate island traditions with the Junior Tobago Heritage Festival • Hindus remember India’s sacred River Ganges with the Ganga Dhaara River Festival (Blanchisseuse, Trinidad) • Christians mark Corpus Christi (3rd, a public holiday) and the Fishermen’s Fest on the

29th, in honour of St Peter, patron saint of fishermen • and trade unionists rally their members in Fyzabad, south Trinidad, on Labour Day (public holiday, 19th) in memory of past battles

Also: WeBeat Festival (St James, Trinidad) • Harvest

festivals in Tobago (Lambeau, Bloody Bay and Roxborough

JULYTobago’s month: Tobago Heritage Festival • Great Fête Weekend • Prime Minister’s Charity Golf Classic • Charlotteville Fisherman’s Fest • South Caribbean Open Golf Tournament • Tobago

OPPOSITE PAGE: Soca celebrity Machel Montano charms the kids at the children’s concert “Boy

Boy and the Magic Drum” ABOVE: Black Rock Performers folk dancer representing “A Queen of

Spirit” (CaféMoka)

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The Hindu festival of Ganga Dharaa honours the environment and Mother Ganga (Martin Farinha)

in Castara and Black Rock

Also: Jazz on the Hill

(Trinidad) • Soca for

Summer and other big concerts featuring local and international stars • Steelband Music Festival

(Trinidad) • Tourism

Adventure Park/T&T Road Trip: displays, tours, and live entertainment

AUGUsTA month of nationalist feeling: Emancipation Day (1st, a public holiday) marks the end of slavery in 1838; Independence Day (31st, a public holiday) marks independence from Britain

Also: the Carib Great

Race for powerboats, from Trinidad to Tobago) • Arima

Borough Day: J’Ouvert, steelpan, calypso and parties • Best Village Competition begins, and runs through November • Muhtadi

International Drumming

Festival in Tobago • Osun

River Festival • Castara

Fisherman’s Fête (Tobago) • Santa Rosa Festival (Arima) • Harvest festival in Speyside, Tobago

sEPTEmbErTowards the end of the month come the ambitious T&T Film Festival and

the start of the season for parang, Spanish-flavoured music, which will run straight through till Christmas

Also: the Eid-ul-Fitr holiday marking the end of the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan • Republic Day (24th, public holiday) marks the country’s transition into a republic in 1976 • International Open

Water Swim • Horse-racing classics in Arima: Royal Oak Derby, Santa Rosa Oaks and Caribbean Champion Stakes (Trinidad) • Panyard

Sensations • San Fernando

Jazz Festival (Trinidad) • Tobago Fest: parties, street parade and J’Ouvert • Tobago International

Gospel Festival • Turtle-

watching season ends

ocTobErStaging of the hindu epic Ramleela prepares the way for the festival of Divali (public holiday, late October/early November) and its thousands of flickering deyas

Also: Steelpan & Jazz

Festival (Trinidad) • Coast-

2-Coast Adventure Race (Trinidad) • Amerindian

Heritage Day, Arima • Blue

Food Festival (Tobago) • European Film Festival

(Trinidad) • National Tourism

Week • Harvest festival in Patience Hill, Tobago

noVEmbErPan is Beautiful in Trinidad, the Scarborough Cup Golf Tournament and Christmas Caravan in Tobago

Also: Best Village

competition finals • Harvest

festivals in Plymouth, Black Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah, Scarborough, Montgomery (Tobago)

dEcEmbErChristmas (public holiday, 25th) dominates everything, followed immediately by Boxing Day (public holiday, 26th) with its horse-racing and parties, as minds turn to next year’s Carnival

Also: Paramin Parang

Festival (Trinidad) • the Muslim festival of Hosay

(Trinidad) • on Assembly

Day, the Tobago House of Assembly celebrates and rewards Tobagonians’ achievements, with exhibitions, sports and recreation • Tobago Flying

Colours (kite-flying festival in Plymouth).

Many dates are set shortly before

the event, and are always subject to

change or cancellation. For more, see our Festivals sections under each island, and visit us online at www.discovertnt.com.

20 21

Cruise ships docked in Port of Spain for a Commonwealth

Heads of Government Meeting (Keown Thomas)

TRINIDAD

22 23

The vacationer

City, coast or mountain? Port of Spain is not

the best base for a sun-and-sand holiday (the

famous Maracas Bay is more than half an hour’s

drive); its visitors are after the excitement of

its music, partying, bars and nightspots, its

flamboyance and its general “buzz”. Luxury

seekers gravitate to the large hotels with

their world-class spas and entertainment;

adventurers and budget travellers stay at the

smaller hotels, guesthouses, and bed-and-

breakfast properties. Beyond the city, the north

and northeast coasts supply most of the beach

properties, smart or rustic.

hotel rooms average

uS$125 a night, guesthouses $65;

but discounted rates and packages are often available. however, peak season is December – April, and rates increase dramatically around Carnival time when droves of expatriates and tourists flock to Trinidad. Book as far in advance as you can.

A weekend conference, a Carnival adventure, a search for the blue-crowned motmot... Trinidad’s visitors have their needs and budgets,

and the island’s accommodation stock can cater for them all.

ACCOMMODATION

AVAIlAbIlITY & PrIcEs

A c c o m m o d AT I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

ABOVE: Anise Resort & Spa, Sans Souci

The eco-adventurer

The eco-visitors and nature enthusiasts, both scientific and

amateur, on the other hand, get out of town quickly and head

for the hills and the forests. A few properties cater especially

for those interested in the island’s flora and fauna, its wetlands,

its nesting turtles, and above all its magnificent variety of birds.

Accommodation is usually close by, but is in limited supply: it

includes the world-famous Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills

above Arima.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit

us online at discovertnt.com.

The business travellerBusiness hotels in Trinidad can

be grand or simply practical,

but they provide what the

businessman needs and

expects. Several of the major

brands have properties in and

around Port of Spain (Crowne

Plaza, Hilton, Holiday Inn,

Hyatt, Marriott), and there are

some popular independent

properties like the Kapok. There

is plenty of flexible conference

and meeting space in the city,

and a recently established

conference bureau. Excellent

hotels and facilities are part

of the reason why Trinidad

continues to be the business

centre of the region.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E A c c o m m o d AT I o n

31

Email: info@aliciashouse.comwebsite: www.aliciashouse.com

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

The small size of the local arts scene means that many artists are part-time semi-professionals.

But there’s certainly no shortage of vibrancy or creativity.

TRINIDAD artists draw on the classical and folk

traditions of Europe, Africa and India, combining them in original ways or adding a creole touch to create new forms that are distinctly Trinidadian.

With limited audiences, events often have short runs, so if you blink you’ll miss them. Keep a close eye on ads and announcements in the local media and especially online. Facebook has become one of the most reliable sources for information about current arts and cultural events. Most of the work not directly related to the Carnival arts closes down after Christmas, when Carnival shows and parties take over, and resumes by Easter. Around September,

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T

Signal Hill Alumni Choir performing at their 25th anniversary concert at Queen’s Hall

(Keown Thomas)

32 33

look out for performances of Ramleela, an epic adaptation of the Ramayana enacted by villagers at open-air venues, mostly in central Trinidad.

Activity is typically concentrated in or near Port of Spain, with music and theatre taking place in venues from Chaguaramas, west of the capital, to the university of the West Indies (uWI) in the east. But San Fernando has its own arts scene, a long-established theatre tradition, and a new Academy for the Performing Arts in the works.

Government-sponsored events include the annual production of Best village, a festival of the folk arts. The new National Academy for the Performing Arts in Port of Spain has staged specially commissioned shows that include steelband concerts and musicals.

Books

Monique Roffey and Amanda Smyth are among local writers

who have published internationally successful books recently:

Roffey’s novel White Woman on a Green Bicycle was shortlisted

for the 2010 Orange Prize. Both visited Port of Spain to launch

their books.

Book launches, readings and lectures take place at the National

Library, UWI, the University of Trinidad & Tobago, the National

Museum, and at bookstores. The biggest names in local

literature are Nobel laureates VS Naipaul and Derek Walcott, but

there are many more.

Look for fiction and plays from Lisa Allen-Agostini, Tony Hall,

Earl Lovelace, Ian McDonald, VS Naipaul, Elizabeth Nunez, Sam

Selvon, and Elizabeth Walcott-Hackshaw. For writing on local

history, culture and environment, see Michael Anthony, Lloyd

Best, Anthony de Verteuil, Bridget Brereton, Gérard Besson,

CLR James, Kim Johnson, John La Rose, Julian Kenny, Eric

Williams, and Discover’s sister organisation Prospect Press.

Dance

Dance companies put on short annual seasons, usually at

Queen’s Hall. The work runs the gamut from the experimental

modern style of Dave Williams to the classical/European dance of

the Cascade Festival Ballet, and Indian dance from the Nrityanjali

Theatre. Other notable names: Noble Douglas, Astor Johnson,

Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle, Elle Inc, and regional folk

performing groups.

Fashion and jewellery Leading designers take part in Fashion Week T&T in mid-year, and present their own shows, often at

year-end. Leaders in the field are Heather Jones, Claudia Pegus and Meiling.

Local jewellery ranges from the shells and seeds strung together by Akilah Jaramogi (sold, along

with other local craft, at the Hotel Normandie), to the works of art wrought from gems and precious

metals by Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Barbara Jardine, and Jasmine Thomas-Girvan.

A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Alice Yard (aliceyard.blogspot.com) in Woodbrook is the backyard of a

house that once belonged to architect Sean Leonard’s great-grandmother.

Now it hosts performances and installations by local and visiting artists who work in the visual media, dance, music, and literature. Recently it’s been the site of a pop-up store selling clothes and bags designed by Robert Young of The Cloth.

Erotic Art Week, in mid-year, features painting, drawing, photography, readings and cellphone films, among other things. The organisers say it’s “open to any contemporary artistic exploration of our erotic ethos”. It’s staged simultaneously at venues that include a rumshop, a wine bar, and the offices of an advertising agency.

The local version of the Red Earth Festival (redearthfestival.webs.com), presented in June to coincide with World Environmental Day and of which Discover is a media sponsor, offers poetry, music, and clay sculpture workshops as well as environment-related activities.

on THE frInGE Film

The two-week annual Trinidad

& Tobago Film Festival in

September screens local,

regional and international

films at MovieTowne and

other venues. Trinidadian

filmmakers Horace Ové, Yao

Ramesar, and Frances-Anne

Solomon have had notable

releases in the last few years.

Most Thursday nights there are

free showings of art films at

Studio Film Club, run by artists

Peter Doig and Che Lovelace.

trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.

com, studiofilmclub.blogspot.

com

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T

BELOW: National Academy for the Performing

Arts, Port of Spain

34 35

Theatre Theatre groups mostly stage local adaptations of metropolitan comedies, and sometimes original

local work. The Centre for Creative and Festival Arts at UWI, St Augustine stages productions that

have included local and regional classics, calypso musicals, and plays based on local history. Popular

venues for plays include Queen’s Hall in Port of Spain, the CLR James Auditorium at the Cipriani

Labour College in Valsayn, Naparima Bowl in San Fernando, and the Central Bank Auditorium and

Little Carib Theatre (both under renovation). There are occasional performances and readings at the

Trinidad Theatre Workshop, founded by Nobel laureate Derek Walcott in 1959. For stand-up comedy

with a strong local flavour, sample shows by Rachel Price and Learie Joseph.

Music Trinidad’s most popular musical exports are

probably the steelpan (created in Port of Spain

in the 1930s) and soca. Classic old-time

calypso is still a staple on the menu at the

Nu Pub (formerly the Mas Camp) on Ariapita

Avenue in Woodbrook, and steelpan players

entertain audiences at competitions, festivals

and events year-round (but especially at

Carnival time).

Home-grown indie music, local rock, jazz and

chutney can often be heard live at bars and

restaurants. Among the most popular: sitarist

Mungal Patasar and his Indian-creole fusion

music; Orisha chantuelle Ella Andall; the rapso

of 3Canal and Maximus Dan; and local fusion

bands 12theband, jointpop, and Orange Sky.

Choral groups such as the Marionettes and

the Lydian Singers perform local and western

classical music, sometimes accompanied

by steelbands, which also stage occasional

concerts of their own. Budding and established

solo vocalists host their own recitals.

If you’re in the mood to party, look for shows

by Machel Montano; Kes the Band; Destra

Garcia and Atlantik; Shurwayne Winchester

and YOU; Faye-Ann Lyons, Bunji Garlin and the

Asylum Band; and countless other soca stars.

Very popular gospel concerts are staged at

larger venues such as the Jean Pierre Complex.

Coming up to Christmas, parang groups

take centre stage, playing Spanish-influenced

seasonal folk songs.

A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

3Canal performing at Queen’s Hall (Stephen Broadbridge)

visual arts The National Museum (623-5941) has a small representative collection of local art which is on

show for most of the year, and a collection of watercolours by the country’s leading 19th-century

painter, Michel Jean Cazabon.

The Art Society (artsocietytt.org, 622-9827) has an annual show in November of new work that

includes paintings, drawings, and sculpture. The society also organises plein-air painting sessions

in picturesque venues, mostly in the dry season, of course.

Art exhibitions can be found, primarily between Easter and Christmas, at several established

galleries and other venues that might include an artist’s home, a restaurant, or the lobby of a

corporate headquarters.

Landscape features very prominently in local painting, but there’s also abstract and avant-garde

work to be seen. Names to look for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, sculptors Ralph and Vera Baney,

Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken

Crichlow, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa

O’Connor, Peter Sheppard, Sundiata, and Noel Vaucrosson.

For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T

36 37

BEAChES

The beaches along Trinidad’s four distinct coastlines may not rival those in Tobago, but they have everything you

need for a beach excursion.

maracas: the most popular

beach in the north, with great

food and facilities. A favourite

for camping at Easter time.

Hotel nearby

Tyrico: if you like the idea of

Maracas’ amenities but don’t

like crowds, this is a smaller,

quieter choice nearby

las cuevas: good bathing

with small caves at the far end

of the beach. Facilities onsite

blanchisseuse: a popular

weekend getaway, with hiking

trails to the nearby waterfall

and into the rainforest. The

Marianne River flows into the

bay, and is great for kayaking.

Rental accommodation

available

scotland bay: a sheltered

and secluded bay in

Chaguaramas only accessible

by boat. Calm clear water

good for snorkelling and

swimming

macqueripe bay: small

secluded bay at the end

of the Tucker Valley Road

in Chaguaramas. Recently

renovated, good for swimming

North coast and ChaguaramasGrande rivière: perfect

for nature-lovers. It’s the

second largest leatherback

turtle nesting ground in the

world (March – August).

Also good river bathing,

kayaking, rainforest hikes.

Accommodation and facilities

on the beach

saline (“sally”) bay: clear

water with good swimming.

Facilities available

balandra bay: good

for swimming, and even

bodysurfing at the rougher

end

b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Northeast coast

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E b E A c H E s

THIS PAGE: Maracas Bay with Tyrico Bay in the background (Martin Farinha) OPPOSITE PAGE: Maracas Bay is the most popular beach in Trinidad (MF)

38 39

East coastManzanilla: bordered by distinctive coconut forest (“the Cocal”). Facilities and lifeguards available

at the northern end. Large estuary and lookout where the Nariva River meets the sea. Rental

accommodation available

Mayaro: glorious stretch of beach, the longest on the island. Popular for long weekends and public

holidays. Sands dotted with distinctive “chip chip” shells, which protect small oceanic organisms and

are a local delicacy. Late-afternoon fishing ritual of “pulling seine”, bringing in the day’s catch in huge

fishing nets. Rental accommodation available

Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am – 5pm or 10am – 6pm where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas

Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements

However inviting they may look, it’s best to avoid the beaches in Chaguaramas, Galeota and between Point Lisas and Point Fortin owing to local industrialisation

TIPS& TRICKS

Salybia: popular for surfing (November – April)

and for swimming (especially June – September).

Fringing reef off eastern end. New beach facilities

Matura: Rough waters make it inadvisable for

swimming, but in March – August it is a popular

and important leatherback turtle nesting site

b e a C h e S D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M

South & southwestern coastsQuinam: popular south coast beach. Calm

waters, good for swimming. Fine brown sand

disappears at high tide. A favourite for family

outings on the weekend. Facilities and hiking trails

Columbus and Cedros bays: both stunning

in good weather. Cedros is the widest beach on

the island at low tide. Quiet fishing villages with

wonderful views of southwestern coast and, on

clear days, neighbouring Venezuela

Granville: getting there is half the adventure.

Popular on weekends and for Ash Wednesday

Carnival cool-down parties

For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T H a N N I V E R S a R y I S S u E b e a C h e S

Pulling seine on the beach at Mayaro (Martin Farinha)

40 41

BuSINESSA meeting-place for the Americas.

TRINIDAD IS already a financial and information hub of the Caribbean and a

gateway to Latin America, with a high influx of business travellers. The Tourism Development Company (TDC) has set up the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau (TTCB). We spoke to the head of the bureau, Canadian-born Chantel Ross Francois.

b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

dTT: Tell us about the origins of the TTCB, and why it was created.crf: The meetings and conference market

has always been a significant niche market

for Trinidad. In 2008 there were approximately

84,000 business and convention stopover

visitors, accounting for 19 per cent of all

stopovers. Globally, the meetings, incentives,

conventions and exhibitions industry or

“business tourism” is one of the highest-

yielding inbound-tourism segments due to its

high per-delegate spend.

What exactly is the role the TTCB plays in the business and tourism sectors in Trinidad & Tobago?

The main focus of the bureau is increasing the

number of events, conferences and meetings

held in T&T. It is a veritable “one-stop shop”

for meeting planners. Ultimately, the goal

is boosting business-tourism revenue by

increasing business travellers’ length of stay,

and the diversity of pre- and post-conference

activities available.

In 2009, Trinidad hosted the 5th Summit of the Americas (SOTA) and the Commonwealth heads of Government Meeting (ChOGM). What were these experiences like?

T&T really has demonstrated its ability to

successfully host large meetings, conferences

and conventions. SOTA and CHOGM

provided a valuable platform to promote what

the country offers as a business and leisure

destination to a captive, influential and diverse

audience.

What facilities are available to business travellers and conference organisers in Trinidad (and Tobago), and how does this make the islands a preferred destination for these people?

Trinidad has the largest and newest conference

infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean.

Many hotels offer conference facilities, including

international brands like the Hyatt Regency

and the Hilton. We have a wide array of

accommodation options and events venues

on offer, including the luxurious new Carlton

Savannah, the new Hyatt, and the newly

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E b U s I n E s s

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OPPOSITE PAGE: Eric Williams Financial Complex, Port of Spain

42

renovated Hilton, with several

new hotel properties on the

way. In Tobago, award-winning

resorts like Coco Reef are ideal

for corporate meetings and

team-building retreats.

We have excellent and

reliable access from major

international hubs; sound

physical infrastructure; state-

of-the-art telecommunications;

attractive leisure activities; an

exciting and diverse culture;

festivals throughout the

year; and warm, welcoming,

talented people!

What sort of events and conferences is the TTCB looking to attract?

We’ve embarked on a diverse

programme of promotional

activities aimed at attracting

a range of events, from

sporting events to religious

conferences and literary

seminars. In November 2010,

for example, we hosted the

International Conference on

Caribbean Literature at the

Hyatt, in conjunction with the

University of the West Indies.

We also partnered with the

Local Organising Committee

for the FIFA Under-17 Women’s

World Cup last September.

This came after a hectic first

half of 2010, when the bureau

provided support to several

conferences and events. We

believe Trinidad & Tobago is

perfectly positioned to be the

meetings and conventions

centre for not just the

Caribbean, but for North,

South and Central America

as well.

b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

44 45

CARNIvALYou can party non-stop for weeks, dance in the streets for two

whole days, meet a monster three storeys high having a rest by the side of the road. At Carnival time, anything can happen.

TRINIDAD is the source. From Carnival in Trinidad

sprang the carnivals in Notting hill, Brooklyn, Washington, DC, Atlanta, Toronto, Miami, and dozens of other cities where West Indians gather. They may be larger, but their roots are Trinidadian.

On your marks…After Christmas, soca artists start churning out their “power soca”

tunes in earnest. Calypso tents, though a dying breed, start

showcasing local bards’ latest barbs, panyards across the country

come alive with musicians learning their notes for the Panorama

competition, and the mas camps are abuzz with wirebenders,

bead- and feather-stickers, costume designers, and hordes of

would-be masqueraders registering for their sections (in between

running to the gym to get in shape). By the week before Carnival,

the “fete jumbies” have attended almost every party for months.

c A r n I VA l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E c A r n I VA l

OPPOSITE PAGE: LaToya Woods, Miss Universe Trinidad & Tobago 2010, enjoys mas on the road in Tribe’s Carnival band (Keown Thomas) BELOW:

Roland St George’s costume “Fantasma”, Dimanche Gras 2010 (Atiba Williams)

46 47

Get set…On Carnival Friday, moko jumbies, stickfighters, flambeaux-carriers, bats, jab-jabs, Dames

Lorraines and more re-enact the Canboulay Riots in the streets of Port of Spain, and the

“traditional mas characters” do battle. When the sun sets and the fireworks light up the sky, it’s

time for the spectacular International Soca Monarch contest, and hopeful soca artists from around

the world compete for the Groovy Soca (laid-back, tuneful soca ballads and hooks, often great for

J’Ouvert) and Power Soca (frenetic, rabble-rousing party tunes) titles.

Steelbands are the focus on Saturday night, as the best bands large and small vie for the

championship and bragging rights for the next year. The nation’s finest calypsonians and huge

hand-built costumes take the stage to bid for the Carnival King and Queen and Calypso Monarch

titles at the Dimanche Gras show on Sunday night.

c A r n I VA l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Panorama 2010 finals (Stephen Broadbridge)

Go…!The reign of the “merry monarch” begins with J’Ouvert at 4am on Monday. The huge music trucks

and hordes of people in outrageous costumes or old clothes drench each other in mud, oil, paint,

chocolate, as they let loose across the island.

Stained and exhausted, the most determined return to the streets towards midday for the first phase of

the masquerade. Others try to crash the all-inclusive bands or watch the prancing masqueraders high

on music, freedom and various legal and not-so-legal substances. In the hills of Paramin, intimidating

blue devils swarm over the winding mountain roads to demand that you “pay de devil”.

Tuesday is the real day of colour and creativity, as the bands in their full regalia take over the

streets from early morning to long after sunset. Some of the costumes are carefully conceived and

lovingly made elements of that year’s theme; others are varieties of bikinis, beads and feathers à la

Rio de Janeiro (complete with borderline nudity). By dark, everyone has a good idea who the Band

of the Year and Road March (the most popular soca tune) titles will go to. But few can think of

anything but skipping work or school and crawling onto a beach come Wednesday.

until next year…Neither Carnival Monday or

Tuesday is a public holiday.

Nor is Ash Wednesday. But

we’ve never heard of anyone

getting fired for absenteeism

or dereliction of duty. The

beach or the river, either

before or after the Catholics

receive ashes on their

foreheads, is the recognised

way to spend Wednesday,

resting the aching limbs,

cooling the sting of sunburn,

sleeping off the exhaustion ...

and dreaming of doing it all

over again.

Carnival literally means “farewell to the

flesh”. Trinidad’s Carnival began in the 1780s, when

European Catholic rituals of masked carnal abandon before Lent gradually merged with West African masking festivals and street theatre. The British colonial government tried to repress the festival and its traditions (stickfighting, drumming, calypso, the steelpan, African religions), without success. In the 20th century, corporate and government interests sought to impose order on the festival through competitions and committees; but Carnival remains an organism that, at its core, exists to subvert authority.

wHErE doEs cArnIVAl

comE from

For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E c A r n I VA l

48 49

calypso: indigenous Trinidadian music with roots in West African songs of praise and mockery

J’ouvert: the anarchic opening phase of Carnival, starting in the wee hours of Monday morning

ol’ mas: the satire and slapstick humour associated with J’Ouvert and its crazy costuming

Playing mas: masquerading, “jumping” with a Carnival band, usually in costume (up to uS$700 “all-inclusive”). Some bands sell out from September, but returns can often be grabbed last-minute

Pretty mas: the opposite of J’Ouvert anarchy: mass-produced costumes, designed to enact a theme or display the body, often consisting of skimpy bikinis, feathers, and beads

road march: the song played most often by music bands at judging points

soca: fast-paced, high-energy offspring of calypso, pioneered by Ras Shorty I (Garfield Blackman) in the 70s, fusing African and Indian sounds. Trinidad’s pop music, it has absorbed R&B, dancehall, hip-hop, reggaetón, house music and other influences

steelpan: developed in Trinidad during World War II, the only non-electronic instrument invented in the 20th century. Began as single “ping pongs” hung around the neck playing just a few notes, now covering the full western scale in bands topping 100 players

Traditional mas: Carnival “characters” like the ominous Midnight Robber, talkative Pierrot Grenade, and gender-bending Dames Lorraines. Best viewed at traditional character parades, viey La Cou (two Sundays before Carnival) and on Carnival Friday in Port of Spain

TAlk lIkE An EXPErT

c A r n I VA l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

ABOVE: JW & Blaze performing at Soca Monarch 2010 (Keown Thomas) OPPOSITE PAGE: Pan-seared lamb, potato lollipop, garlic-scented spinach

and beetroot jam

EATING OuTSo many ethnicities, so many cultures:

no wonder Trinidad’s food is so fascinating.

Restaurants Trinidad is well served

these days by fine-dining

restaurants. The options

include Asian, creole,

European, Middle Eastern,

Jamaican, Japanese and

American cuisine, complete

with elegant décor and

ambient music. On Ariapita

Avenue and environs, in

Woodbrook, lines of trendy

restaurants and bars will

entertain you all evening. Most

restaurants offer vegetarian

options. Much of the best

“local” food is based on skilful

and adventurous fusion.

Two of our favourites are

Angelo’s and Veni Mangé in

Woodbrook, which celebrates

its 30th anniversary this year.

Street snacksStreet vendors operate throughout the populated areas of the island, and everyone has a favourite.

Each vendor should display a food badge. Make sure to try:

doubles: the food of choice for breakfast or

after a long night of partying. It consists of curried

chickpeas packed between two pieces of barra

(flat fried bread), and topped with sweet and

peppery sauces

bake and shark: thick slices of fried shark

between fried bread that’s slightly crisp outside

and light inside. It’s the signature snack at

Maracas Bay, on the north coast, where after

a swim in the warm water you join the lines

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E E AT I n G o U T

50 51E AT I n G o U T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Stew beef, a delicious creole dish, served with vegetable rice and macaroni pie

buljol: well seasoned shredded saltfish, mixed with onions, tomatoes and pimento peppers sautéed in olive oil, often served with coconut bake

callaloo: soup made from dasheen leaves, coconut milk, ochroes and pumpkin, and sometimes salted meat or crab

Pastelle: seasoned meat, fish, lentils or soya with raisins, olives and capers, encased in cornmeal and steamed in banana leaves

Pelau: one-pot dish of rice, pigeon peas and meat

souse: boiled pork, served cold in a salty sauce with lime, cucumber, pepper and onion slices

sorrel: popular at Christmas time, this deep red drink is made from the sorrel fruit

oTHEr locAl fAVoUrITEs

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E E AT I n G o U T

at the vendors’ booths to

buy this Trinidad favourite.

You can garnish with various

condiments, and salad. Try

the pineapple and chadon

beni (aka “shadow beni”)

Pholourie: seasoned flour

and split-peas fritters with

chutney dipping sauce

Aloo pie (a spicy mashed

potato filling in between fried

elongated puffy bread) and

corn soup (a savoury blend

of split peas, corn on the

cob, ground provisions and

flour dumplings, mixed in a

flavourful broth) are quick

snacks found everywhere

52 53

drinks: try coconut water around the

Savannah, straight from the nut; local fruit

juices; and sno-cone (shaved ice drenched

in syrups and condensed milk)

Quick and affordable mealsYou can find something new every day. Roti

shops serve roti and paratha with irresistible

curries, and there are many small outlets

serving Chinese food, creole food, Lebanese

food and more. For an interesting experience

try Les Femmes du Chalet (the Breakfast

Shed), where several vendors serve local food

all day on the Port of Spain waterfront.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the

back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

E AT I n G o U T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

ThE ENvIRONMENT

Asa wright nature centre: one of Trinidad’s best-known

birding locations, near Arima,

and a marvellous base for

exploring the life of the

Northern Range, especially its

rich variety of birds. The centre

has several nature trails, and a

breeding oilbird colony on its

grounds.

caroni swamp & bird sanctuary: an afternoon

boat tour among muscular

mangroves brings you to the

scarlet ibis, the national bird,

flying through the dusk into the

wetland to roost, like splashes

of red paint across the evening

sky. Boat tours should be

booked in advance.

Pointe-à-Pierre wild fowl Trust: this 25-hectare wildlife

reserve is located on the

grounds of the Petrotrin

refinery near San Fernando.

Visit for a day (advance

bookings required), taking

advantage of the trails and

bird-watching opportunities,

or book into the onsite Petrea

Place for the night.

nariva swamp & bush bush sanctuary: a

recognised “wetland of

international importance”. In

the dry season, you can walk

across much of the swamp,

but in the wet season, its

200 bird species are viewed

from kayaks and fishing boats

(contact a good tour company

or guide).

Hundreds of bird and butterfly species, hiking and biking paths, mountain trails, caves, wetlands, secluded

waterfalls with cooling plunge pools, dense rainforest ... Trinidad really is a nature-lover’s paradise.

Birding

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E E n V I r o n m E n T

ABOVE: Capuchin monkey (Genevieve Carpentier)

54 55

hikingTrinidad takes hiking

enthusiasts through tropical

rainforests, into caves and

beneath waterfalls.

On the northwest peninsula,

chaguaramas has great trails

for novices and experienced

hikers. From the Chaguaramas

Golf Course, a brief hike

through the forest ends in the

plunge pool of the 76-metre

Edith falls. A longer trail up

the covigne river Gorge

passes over rocks, through

shallow pools and up river

cascades.

Trinidad’s second highest peak,

El Tucuche, is a favourite with

TurtlesFrom March to September each year, hundreds of leatherback

turtles lay their eggs on the Matura and Grande Rivière beaches

and others along the island’s northeast coast. They heave

themselves out of the water, dig their nests and lay their eggs in the

sand. Some weeks later you might see hatchlings as they venture

into the ocean for the first time. Just take care not to touch or

disturb them, or worse yet take pictures with a flash. Permits are

required to access these beaches during nesting season.

caribbean discovery Tours: Stephen Broadbridge, owner of CDT, has been in the business for over a decade. CDT offers custom-designed nature and cultural itineraries with expert guiding though forested mountains, rivers, waterfalls, secluded beaches, wetlands and villages. The clientele includes eco-adventure and family vacationers, bird-watchers, scientists, university faculties, and film and television crews. Package itineraries (including local transportation and accommodation) are available. Contact: (868) 624-7281/620-1989 • www.caribbeandiscoverytours.com.

See our interview with Stephen on the Discover website at www.discovertnt.com.

T&T sightseeing Tours: Charles Carvalho’s TTST has been in business since 1984, and offers easy sightseeing tours, city tours, Tobago day tours, historical tours, golf trips, and nature tours including mild to strenuous hikes, boat tours, diving trips, and turtle-watching and birding. It can arrange hotel reservations, car rentals, aircraft charter, conferencing, and cultural itineraries.Contact: (868) 628-1051 • www.trintours.com

fEATUrEd Eco-ToUr

oPErATors

E n V I r o n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

OPPOSITE PAGE: Grande Rivière beach is a successful protected nesting area for the giant leatherback turtles where you can see hundreds of

turtles in one night. In this photo one turtle is laying and the closer one covering her nest (Marcus Gomez) ABOVE: The cold fresh waters of the Paria

Waterfall are only a two-and-a-half-hour hike from Blanchisseuse (MG)

56 57

hardcore hikers. Beginning

in the Maracas-St Joseph

valley, they encounter a variety

of ecosystems and their

inhabitants, including perhaps

the indigenous golden tree

frog. The summit offers views

of the north coast, the central

plains and the Southern Range.

From there, you can continue

hiking to Maracas Bay or

return to Maracas-St Joseph.

Experienced hikers may enjoy

trekking to El cerro del Aripo in the Northern Range,

higher than El Tucuche by a

few metres, where they might

just come face to face with an

ocelot (wild cat).

The Tamana caves on the

eastern edge of the Central

Range are home to thousands

of bats. The hike to the caves

is short but steep, and muddy

in the rainy season. From there,

you can hike up to the top of

mt Tamana, only about 300m,

but with rewarding vistas of the

Northern and Central Ranges.

The noisy cumaca cave on

the southeastern end of the

Nothern Range has a large

oilbird colony. The hike takes

about two hours and the river

running through the cave

makes it slippery. It’s also

dark, so hikers need to carry

flashlights.

Limestone weathering

on Gasparee Island off

Chaguaramas has resulted

in an elaborate system of stalagmites and stalactites in the

Gasparee caves. The pool at the bottom of the caves is a good

way to refresh yourself before the hike back up.

other great hiking spots

maracas waterfall: At 91.5m, Trinidad’s highest waterfall.

Paria waterfall: Accessed either from Blanchisseuse or Brasso

Seco, with deep plunge pool for bathing.

Arena forest: gentle gradients are ideal for novices, also good for

bird-watching.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E E n V I r o n m E n T

OPPOSITE PAGE: Cathedral Rock at Paria Bay, North Coast (Nisha Kong) ABOVE: El Tucuche

(936m) in Trinidad’s Northern Range, the second highest point on the island

58 59

Water adventureskayaking is a popular sport in Trinidad. Kayaks

can be rented from the Kayak Centre in Williams

Bay, Chaguaramas; the Salybia Water Sports

and Recreation Centre offers guided kayaking

tours up the Salybia River and hikes to the

Matura waterfall. The Nariva Swamp in the

southeast and Blanchisseuse on the north coast

are other popular kayaking spots. Reputable

tour guides organise kayaking expeditions

anywhere in the country.

Trinidad’s small but growing surfer population

spends weekends in the northeastern coastal

village of Sans Souci. Surfing is also good at

Balandra, Toco and Salybia in the northeast and

Maracas and Blanchisseuse in the north. kite-surfing is increasingly popular on the south

coast beaches of Mayaro, Moruga and Los Iros.

Permits are needed for some locations and activities (like camping and turtle-watching)

don’t attempt a long hike or difficult trail

without a reputable, certified guide: it’s easy to get lost or have an accident

when turtle-watching, do not use flash photography, touch or otherwise disturb nesting

turtles, as this can cause them severe distress

make sure that any guide or tour company you choose is a member of the T&T Incoming Tour Operators Association (www.ttitoa.com)

TIPs& TrIcks

E n V I r o n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

BELOW: Kayaking in Chaguaramas OPPOSITE PAGE: Enjoying a snocone during Phagwa celebrations at the Aranguez Savannah (Brian Kinzie)

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

FESTIvALSTrinidadians love to celebrate. And the island’s religious

and cultural diversity means that they don’t have to look very hard to find a reason for celebrating

life, freedom and time off work.

cArnIVAl (February/March, moveable)The island’s signature festival kicks off the calendar with fêtes, music, dance and a two-day parade of bands in towns across the island.

sPIrITUAl (sHoUTEr) bAPTIsT lIbErATIon dAY (March 30)*Marks the repeal of the colonial-era Shouter Prohibition Ordinance,

which banned the activities of this Afro/Christian religion.

PHAGwA (March, moveable)Phagwa, or holi, is the hindu festival that welcomes the arrival of spring in India. Traditional folksongs called chowtals are sung to the beat of dholak drums; celebrants douse each another in coloured vegetable dyes known as

abir. Especially popular is the Children’s Phagwa celebration hosted each year at the Tunapuna hindu School.

lA dIVInA PAsTorA (second Sunday after Easter)hosted in Siparia each year, this is a religious festival shared, remarkably, by Roman Catholics and hindus. A wooden statue, decorated with flowers and

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E f E s T I VA l s

60 61

dressed in white, is processed through the streets. For the Catholics, who keep the statue in their local church, she is a black virgin Mary, “the Divine Shepherdess”; for hindus, she is Siparee Kay Mai.

HosAY (moveable)This Muslim festival commemorates the death of hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Mohammed. It lasts for three nights, culminating in a procession of exquisitely made tadjahs, depicting the tomb of hussein, to the thunder of tassa drums. St James and Cedros are major centres of the festival, with smaller celebrations around the island.

TrInIdAd & TobAGo fAsHIon wEEk (May, moveable)Founded in 2008; showcases talented local and regional designers and models, both established and emerging.

IndIAn ArrIVAl dAY (May 30)* Commemorates the arrival of the first Indian labourers in Trinidad on the Fatel Razak in 1845. More than 140,000 Indians were recruited over the next 70 years to work Trinidad’s plantations after African emancipation left them without labour. Communities re-enact the arrival of this first group on beaches around the country, and outstanding members of Trinidad’s Indian community are rewarded for their contributions. The Divali Nagar site just outside Chaguanas is a focal point.

corPUs cHrIsTI (June, moveable)*Roman Catholics process through Port of Spain as a public profession of faith, a practice dating back to Spanish colonial days. It is a traditional day for planting crops, as it is believed that it always rains on Corpus Christi.

rEd EArTH Eco ArTs fEsTIVAl (June, moveable)

hosted at natural oases like Chaguaramas and Blanchisseuse, this festival raises awareness through environmental and arts events. It is held each year around World Environment Day (June 5).

wE bEAT fEsTIVAl (June, moveable)An annual festival centred in St James, Port of Spain, featuring vintage kaiso (calypso), talent shows, a pan explosion and a steelband parade at the end.

EmAncIPATIon dAY (August 1)*Celebrated on August 1 to commemorate the abolition of slavery in 1838. The focus is the Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation village in Port of Spain, which features lectures, exhibitions of African art, a trade exposition and live entertainment. There is also a street procession, kanboulé/Canboulay, through the streets of Port of Spain.

sAnTA rosA fEsTIVAl (August)A month-long Amerindian/Catholic festival commemorating the death of Santa Rosa de Lima, the Roman Catholic patron saint of the New World. It begins with the firing of a cannon on August 1 from Calvary hill in Arima, and ends on the Sunday following the feast day of Santa Rosa (August 23). A statue of the saint is borne through the streets of Arima in a procession by members of Trinidad’s Carib community, including the Carib Queen, and Roman Catholics.

IndEPEndEncE dAY (August 31)*Celebrated on August 31, this was the day when Trinidad & Tobago became independent from Britain in 1962. It starts with a parade of the various protective services; later, national awards are given

f E s T I VA l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E f E s T I VA l s

Deyas, small clay lamps containing oil and cotton wicks,

are lit during Divali, the Hindu festival of lights

62 63

to deserving citizens, and fireworks light up the Queen’s Park Savannah. There are often also huge concerts and an Independence Day Cycling Classic.

TrInIdAd & TobAGo fIlm fEsTIVAl (September, moveable)Started in 2006 and now the second largest of its kind in the region. It showcases dramatic, documentary, short, and animated films from or about the Caribbean and Latin America, and hosts workshops and educational programmes. www.trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.com

rEPUblIc dAY (September 24)*Marks the adoption in 1976 of a new republican constitution, in which a president replaced the British monarch as the head of state, and the first meeting of the republican parliament. Events include the hyundai Open Water Classic at Maracas Bay and the Republic Day Cycling Challenge and 5K Fun Run.

AmErIndIAn HErITAGE dAY (October 14)Descendants of the original Caribbean peoples gather from around the region for a smoke ceremony and street procession in Arima to honour the heritage of Caribs, Aruacs and other Amerindian ancestors.

EId-Ul-fITr (moveable)*The Muslim festival celebrating the end of the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth month of the Muslim year, according to the moon), a period of prayer and fasting from dawn to dusk. Morning communal worship in mosques and large open spaces throughout the country is followed by alms-giving; people visit family and friends, exchanging gifts and sweets. Sweets

are shared with non-Muslim friends and neighbours, among whom sawine, a milk-based vermicelli dessert, is a holiday favourite.

rAmlEElA (moveable)Also known as Ramdilla and Ramlila, this nine-day festival precedes Divali. Parts of hindu scripture about the life of Lord Ram are re-enacted with music and dancing. The best-known productions are held in Couva and Felicity, in central and south Trinidad.

dIVAlI (October/November, moveable)*This hindu lunar festival honours Mother Lakshmi (goddess of light, beauty, riches and love) and celebrates the return of Lord Rama from exile: thousands of flickering deyas light his way. Felicity in south Trinidad is among the most popular venues. In the nine days leading up to Divali, Trinidadians of all ethnicities and religions visit the Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas, and hundreds take part in the ritual lighting of deyas at dusk on the day itself.

bEsT VIllAGE (moveable)Ten counties vie for various titles in the Prime Minister’s Best village trophy competition. Action heats up at mid-year, and culminates in October/November. villages compete in various aspects of folk tradition, including food, storytelling, Carnival traditions, dance, music, theatre, and the selection of a Best village Queen, “La Reine Rivé”.

* These festivals are public holidays. Other

public holidays: New Year’s Day (January 1),

Good Friday and Easter Monday, Labour Day

(June 19), Christmas Day and Boxing Day

(December 25, 26)

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

f E s T I VA l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Ravi Bissambhar performs at Blue Range Cooler Fete (Christopher Daniel)

NIGhTLIFETrinidadians take their entertainment very, very seriously.

The multitude of bars, nightclubs and lounges, roadside watering holes, multi-level VIP clubs with dazzling lights and sizzling cocktails,

shows exactly how crucial a business partying is to Trinis.

WhAT’S YOuR TASTE, SMALL LIME or big fête? Do you have the stamina to hop from lime to club to bar to club to late-night doubles and back? Whatever.

Trinidad has no shortage of entertainment options. And if you just want to enjoy a movie, a play or a concert, you’re covered there too.

Port of SpainSt James, on the western

edge of Port of Spain, is

fancifully called “the city that

never sleeps” because of its

thumping music, sidewalk

vendors and straightforward,

down-to-earth drinking dens.

Of these, the most famous

is Smokey and Bunty, a

legendary liming spot where

regular characters are part

of the experience. Hereford’s

Bar also has its charms: at

their infamous Hard Wine

Thursdays, you can sample

their “horny goat weed”.

But if your taste runs more

towards the swanky lounge,

the sports bar and the

nightclub, head towards

neighbouring Woodbrook.

Cutters and live entertainment

can be found at Sweet Lime

on Ariapita Avenue, next

door to the Ma Pau casino.

The food, entertainment and

atmosphere of Zanzibar,

one major road over in

MovieTowne, make it a

favourite sports bar for group

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E n I G H T l I f E

64 65

limes, and you can take in a movie or a show

at the on-site cineplex and Fiesta Plaza.

Other night spots on the Ariapita Avenue strip

are the Corner Bar, Studio, Coco Lounge, the

Squeeze, Shakers, and Satchmo’s. At More

Vino, you will find wines from around the world

and fresh sushi. The neighbouring Drink! Wine

Bar features DJs on Friday nights. La Casa de

Ibiza, Woodford Café and Trotters serve live

and televised entertainment with the food..

Not far away, Aura serves cocktails, wines and

cutters in elegant surroundings, and Minglers

and Earth provide cosy indoor seating and

picnic-table-style pavement seating along

Cipriani Boulevard.

But this only scratches the surface. What

about the elegant bars and lounges at hotels

like the Kapok (Maraval), the Carlton Savannah

and Hilton (St Ann’s), or the Hyatt Regency

(Port of Spain waterfront)? And ...

If you’ve got your dancing shoes, take them

to the 51 Degrees nightclub, where karaoke

starts the party off on a Thursday evening.

The Zen Nightclub is noted for four levels of

dance floors and bars, including a special VIP

level. Katalyst has a nightclub interior with

an attractive deck outside; likewise, Club

Alchemy has merged the nightclub and lounge

experience. It will cost you $80 – $175 to get

into a nightclub, though most clubs run regular

free-entry and free-drinks promotions.

If you still have time and energy, fêtes,

parties and live concerts featuring local

and international acts might be staged in

large outdoor venues like the Queen’s Park

Savannah at any time, especially around

Carnival.

n I G H T l I f E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E n I G H T l I f E

On the dancefloor at 51 Degrees (courtesy 51 Degrees/Stuart Patrick)

66 67

Further afieldOutside the capital, the

futuristic Space La Nouba

nightclub in South Trinidad

hosts popular drinks-inclusive

Champagne Fridays and

themed party nights. Privé

(an exclusive nightclub with

guest-list-only entry) and the

110 Jazz and Calypso Lounge

are also popular.

Along the East-West Corridor,

Trincity Mall’s restaurants and

bars include the very popular

Bootleggers and J Malone’s.

Discerning limers might also

drift towards Trevor’s Edge in

St Augustine or Sandbaggers

in Trincity.

MovieTowne, at Invaders Bay in Port of Spain and Price Plaza in

Chaguanas, shows many of the latest films, as does Caribbean

Cinemas 8 at Trincity Mall. MovieTowne hosts the Trinidad &

Tobago and European Film Festivals in September and October.

The single-screen Globe (Port of Spain) and Palladium (Tunapuna)

offer double features and cheap seats.

Theatre, dance and concerts find homes at Queen’s Hall and

the newly-completed National Academy for the Performing Arts

in Port of Spain. The CLR James Auditorium at Cipriani Labour

College in Valsayn has become a popular theatre venue, and the

University of the West Indies in St Augustine a more serious one.

In south Trinidad, the main performance space is Naparima Bowl

in San Fernando.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit

us online at discovertnt.com.

Theatre and cinema

n I G H T l I f E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Where?malls: there are five major

shopping malls in Trinidad, all

comfortably air-conditioned:

The Falls at West Mall

(Westmoorings), Long Circular

Mall (St James), Trincity Mall

(near the airport), Gulf City

(La Romaine, San Fernando)

and Grand Bazaar (Valsayn).

Several smaller shopping

plazas and mini-malls also

house a range of stores.

downtown: in every major

urban district in Trinidad,

shopping is centred on a

few key streets. In Port of

Spain, the main street is

lower Frederick Street, with

shopping on surrounding

streets. Charlotte Street, to

the east of Frederick Street,

is renowned for its bargain

shopping. In San Fernando,

the focus is High Street.

online: online shopping is

gaining traction in Trinidad,

with local websites offering

to deliver goods direct to

customers’ doorsteps. So

far, shoes, clothing, lingerie

and accessories are the main

ShOPPINGWhat to buy, and where to buy it? Can you really go home “hands

swinging”? Of course not. So read on.

items that can be bought this way, but plenty more will probably

be added to the list during 2011.

Trade fairs: enterprising Indian businessmen have been

doing brisk business in Trinidad recently with trade fairs selling

clothing, jewellery, household products, food, and furniture at

bargain prices.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E s H o P P I n G

ABOVE: One of the many jewellery stores found in The Falls at Westmall

68 69

Souvenirs: mugs, key chains, T-shirts, figurines,

Carnival dolls and handcrafted copper trinkets.

Music: local music is thriving in Trinidad. Apart

from calypso, soca and chutney, you can find

local rock, hip-hop, gospel, reggae, choral, and

Indian music at most music stores. You can

buy local music online at TrinidadTunes.com.

DVDs: locally produced television series and

films are being packaged for home viewing.

You can find original DVDs of these shows at

most music stores.

Books: local novels, coffee-table books,

non-fiction, history, biography, poetry and

magazines can be found at bookstores. Local

magazines can often be picked up for free at

popular coffee houses, watering holes and

beauty establishments.

Jewellery: Trinidad’s fine jewellers produce

some extraordinary pieces. You can buy work

from the studio, and often at galleries, select

stores and sidewalk vendors.

Clothing and fabrics: one thing you are sure

to find in abundance is clothing. Among the

main options: cheap, mass-produced items

from China, India and the USA; high-end

boutiques with clothing from Europe and the

USA; ethnic clothing from India and Africa;

What?

S H O P P I N G D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M

Wooden sculptures in the craft market at the Cruise Ship Complex, Port of Spain

elegant smart or casual creations from

local designers; cloth from India. Boutiques

catering to the plus-size market have been

cropping up recently.

Art & craft: slippers, belts, handbags and

accessories can be bought from sidewalk

vendors, at some beaches, or at shopping

plazas in downtown Port of Spain. Paintings,

sculptures and other artwork can be found at

local art stores and galleries, mainly in Port

of Spain.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back

of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T h a N N I V E R S a R y I S S u E S H O P P I N G

70 71

ONE OF ThE best-known T-shirt and clothing lines

in T&T is Native Spirit, produced by B & Tees. We caught up with its co-founder Tracy Kaufmann.

dTT: What are the origins of the Native Spirit/B&Tees brand?Tk: I met my husband Bruce [Kaufmann] at

York University in Toronto, where we were

both studying art. He was airbrushing his own

surfing designs on T-shirts and selling them to

his friends in Trinidad. I came to visit his family in

1986. It was my first trip to the Caribbean: the

lush beauty of the country and the charm of the

fun-loving people made a huge impression on

me. It was, and continues to be, a very creatively

inspiring place to live. That’s really what inspired

our creation of the T-shirt line, and setting up B &

Tees that year.

What kind of products do you offer for locals and visitors?

Native Spirit is our unique brand of “Original Art

to Wear, Inspired by the Caribbean”. It features

T-shirts, polos, ladies’ tops, kids’ tees, girls’

dresses, baby rompers, headwear and beach

bags for fun people of all ages. The “Running

Man” symbol represents the fun and freedom

the customer feels when wearing a Native

Spirit garment. Our motto is “Live Life ...Wear

Native Spirit!”

What sort of designs do you use?Each garment has always been individually

airbrushed, featuring fun designs that

incorporate the coconut trees, tropical animals,

the little gingerbread homes, the unique roti,

doubles, rum and Carib beer, all the things we

love about these islands. The T-shirts were

really popular, so we purchased screen printing

equipment to meet the demand, and numerous

staff and artists gradually joined B & Tees Ltd,

which has now been in existence for almost

25 years.

how do you explain that long success?

Our customers are people who appreciate

our quality, long-lasting products, and want to

wear designs that truly reflect their Caribbean

lifestyle. There’s a really special e-mail a

German tourist to Tobago sent us that sums

it up. He said whenever he wants to escape

from the dreary weather of the winter months

in Germany, he simply puts on his Native Spirit

T-shirt and remembers the warm, special

memories of his holiday in Tobago.

Where can people buy your products?

We wholesale throughout Trinidad & Tobago

and retail in Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall,

Gulf City Mall in La Romaine, and Gulf City

Lowlands Mall in Tobago. You can also buy

Native Spirit products online at nativespirittees.

com.

MADE IN T&T

s H o P P I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

SIGhTSEEING

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E s I G H T s E E I n G

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, downtown Port of Spain (Mark Lyndersay)

72 73

Port of Spain

s I G H T s E E I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

The capital city can be explored in a day. A good starting point is

the International waterfront on Wrightson Road. Grab some

local cuisine at the femmes du chalet (the Breakfast Shed), then

take a stroll along the boardwalk. You’ll pass office towers and the

22-storey Hyatt, where you can enjoy an outdoor art exhibition.

Cross Wrightson Road and head along Independence Square

and the brian lara Promenade. At the western end are the twin

towers of government finance and the blue-glassed nicholas Tower. At the eastern end is the Roman Catholic cathedral of the Immaculate conception, completed in 1836.

From Independence Square,

head north along Frederick

Street: great for shopping,

with several souvenir

shops. On the way, you’ll

pass woodford square,

surrounded by the Anglican

Trinity cathedral, the red House, where parliament sits,

and the Hall of Justice.

At the top of Frederick

Street, entry to the national museum and Art Gallery is

free (allow two hours). Next to

the museum, in a style entirely

its own, is the national Academy of the Performing Arts (nAPA).

The Queen’s Park savannah, stretching

between the city and the

hills, is touted by locals as

the world’s largest traffic

roundabout. As you travel

round it, you pass on the

western side a row of

seven mansions built in the

early 1900s, now dubbed

the Magnificent Seven,

though some are in a less

than magnificent state of

repair. At the northern edge

of the savannah are the

Emperor Valley Zoo and

the botanical Gardens, a

popular spot with picnickers

and nature enthusiasts. The

President’s House is due for

major renovation in 2011.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E s I G H T s E E I n G

The westHigh on a hill west of the city, fort George,

off the Western Main Road in St James, is

an important historical landmark. Erected in

1804, it features a signal house, a lock-up, and

original cannon. There are breathtaking views

of the Caroni Plains, the Gulf of Paria, Port of

Spain, and west Trinidad.

In chaguaramas, book a boat tour “down de islands”, a series of small islands off

the northwest coast. One goes to the

abandoned leper asylum and the lighthouse

on chacachacare, another to the caves on

Gaspar Grande. Or enjoy a round of golf at the

nine-hole public course, an invigorating kayak

voyage on Williams Bay, or the many hiking and biking trails in this National Heritage Park.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Port of Spain International Waterfront Centre (Nisha

Kong) ABOVE: Small boats, Chaguaramas (Matik Nicholls)

74 75

Days out in the southYou may well want to spend a couple of days

in south Trinidad. On the first day, explore

downtown San Fernando from King’s Wharf to

Library Corner. On Harris Promenade, you can

see the train engine immortalised in the calypso

“Last Train to San Fernando”. Watch the sun set

from the top of san fernando Hill and take in

views of south and central Trinidad, including

the Central Range.

Next day, go east to the devil’s woodyard, an active mud volcano near Princes Town, then

southwest to La Brea and the Pitch lake, the

largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world.

You can take a dip in the warm sulphur pools

(only go with authorised tour guides).

CentralThe Temple in the sea at

Waterloo was the stubborn

statement of Indian labourer

Siewdass Sadhu when he was

denied permission to build a

small temple on the coast. It

was fully completed in 1994

to commemorate the 150th

anniversary of the arrival of

Indian workers in Trinidad.

The dattatreya Yoga centre and mandir in Carapichaima

is an ornate Hindu temple

built in the Dravidian style of

the 12th – 14th centuries. On

its grounds stands an 85-foot

murti (statue) of Hanuman,

with another smaller murti

contained within it.

Near Gran Couva, the la Vega Estate and Garden centre is

home to a range of plants and trees, and is popular for picnics,

kayaking, and other outdoor activities.

s I G H T s E E I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

The Pitch Lake at La Brea, the world’s largest natural asphalt lake

The Temple In the Sea at Waterloo (Nisha Kong)

heading eastHigh in the hills of the

Northern Range, north of

St Augustine, is the mt st benedict monastery. People

of all denominations join the

monks at prayer, enjoy the

view of Trinidad’s central

plains, explore the forest

trails, and have tea at Pax

Guesthouse.

In the foothills of the

Northern Range, about five

miles north of Arouca, is

the picturesque lopinot Village. The plantation house

of the old cocoa estate has

been restored and turned

into a museum. During the

Christmas season, Lopinot

is a good place to enjoy live

parang bands.

cleaver woods in Arima is

the site of a reconstructed

Amerindian ajoupa (hut) and a

display of artefacts. There are

trails into the forest.

The northeastern tip of

Trinidad is a rocky headland

called Galera Point, with an

abandoned lighthouse. Picnic

tables await under the almond

and sea-grape trees.

From March to August, the

northeast beaches, especially

matura and Grande rivière, are nesting grounds for giant

leatherback turtles that come

ashore to lay their eggs in the

sand. A few months later, their

hatchlings emerge and head

for the open sea. Be sure to

go with an approved guide, as

permits are required to view

these endangered animals.

Further down the east coast,

the beaches of manzanilla

and mayaro, guarded by

miles of coconut palms,

are the longest in Trinidad,

Atlantic breakers thudding

onto the sand (watch out for

rip currents).

For more information, see the Service

Directory at the back of this book, and

visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E s I G H T s E E I n G

TOP: The museum at Lopinot Village ABOVE: Christ statue at Mt St Benedict, the oldest

monastery in the region, founded in 1912 (Nisha Kong)

76

Charles Carvalho started T&T

Sightseeing Tours in 1984, and made it a success from the start. he has been an advertising partner of Discover for 16 years.

dTT: What for you are the most popular tours that people can go on?

cc: Asa Wright Nature

Centre and the Caroni Bird

Sanctuary are my top-selling

tours, and my favourites too.

I love the drive to and from

the Pitch Lake. When we

first started the business,

Caroni Bird Sanctuary was an

afternoon tour, and you had

to reach there for 4pm. But

it’s a natural environment, so

I started selling tours there

in the morning, right through

the day. You may not see the

scarlet ibis return to roost, but

you see them feeding during

the day through the mangrove.

You have the caiman, the

snakes, the fish and aquatic

life, and all the other birds. The

cruise ships used to come to

Trinidad and leave port at 8pm

at night to accommodate tours

to the sanctuary. But when

they come with us, they can

leave at 6pm, because we

have two or three trips going

into the Bird Sanctuary a day!

What distinguishes T&T Sightseeing Tours in the market?

First of all, my minimum group

size is one person. I started

off like that, and it’s something

most tour operators don’t do.

You don’t have to wait for the

tour to fill up – you can get a

one-on-one tour. On top of

that, it’s value for money. We

went the extra mile from the

beginning, trying to provide

value for customers. And I

think that’s been one of our

successes. I don’t want to

follow anybody – I do what I

have to do, and offer the best

product I can to the clients.

That’s why we’re still here.

how should our readers get in touch with you? Phone, e-mail, website?

Any way! My phone lines

are open 24 hours a day.

No matter where you are or

what time zone you’re in, you

can get us any time. Would

you believe one of our only

customer complaints is that

we respond to our e-mails too

quickly!

www.trintours.com, 868-628-

1051 (telephone), 868-622-

9205 (fax), carvalho@tstt.net.

tt (e-mail).

MADE IN T&T

Caroni Swamp (CaféMoka)

78 79

NATIONAL SPORTING ORGANISATIONS (NSOs) GOvERN vARIOuS sports and manage the development of athletes. As a result, the country has been well represented on the international stage in track and field, football, cricket, hockey, boxing, martial arts, swimming, motor sports and shooting.

In 2010, the country’s athletes won 44 medals at the Central America and Caribbean Games, easily breaking the previous 1966 record of 24.

The sports calendar is packed, with tournaments and meets throughout the year. While sports tourism is not yet fully developed, many events do include foreign competitors.

SPORTSTrinidad has a healthy appetite for sport.

Drive past any recreation ground or open field on an evening or weekend and you’ll see people engaged in some type of

sporting activity, most likely football or cricket.

s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

ABOVE: Horse-racing, Santa Rosa Park, Arima (CaféMoka)

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E s P o r T s

fooTbAllWith male and female national teams (Soca Warriors and Soca Princesses), professional and secondary school leagues, and clubs for children of all ages, football is a truly national sport. The country hosted the FIFA under-17 Women’s World Cup, in 2010, and the men’s equivalent in 2001. Trinidad & Tobago was the smallest nation ever to qualify for the World Cup, in 2006. The hasely Crawford and Marvin Lee stadiums are home to Trinidad’s football team: Pro League matches (April – December) are played there and at the Larry Gomes (Arima), Ato Boldon (Couva) and Manny Ramjohn (Marabella) stadiums.

ATHlETIcsT&T has always been a quiet force in track and field, with athletes winning coveted hardware at the Olympics and other international meets. Its athletic prowess lies largely with sprinters like Richard Thompson. Locals get to see their stars in action at the annual hampton Games, held at the hasely Crawford Stadium in Port of Spain: participants have included Jamaican phenomenon usain Bolt

and American sprinter Maurice Green. There are 45 clubs nationwide, and the Southern Games at Guaracara Park is one of the biggest annual meets. The sector is presided over by the National Amateur Athletics Association.

bAskETbAllBasketball is played every night on community courts across the island. There are seven zonal leagues as well as a national team, and courts at St Augustine (uWI), Maloney, Pleasantville, Point Fortin, and Port of Spain (the Jean Pierre Complex). Major events are the Super Ten (October – early December) and the National Club Championship.

cYclInGEaster brings out T&T’s cyclists against some of the best in the world at the annual Easter Grand Prix held at the Arima velodrome. Smaller events such as the Beacon Classic around the Queen’s Park Savannah and the Southern Games also attract cycling enthusiasts. Contact: T&T Cycling Federation.

dIVInGTrinidad cannot match Tobago as a diving destination, but the best

is around the islands off Chaguaramas (particularly Chacachacare), on the north coast, and in the Gulf of Paria. Contact a dive shop like Rick’s Dive World or Dive TnT.

fIsHInGOnshore fishing is popular in Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera Point and the Nariva river mouth. Popular boat-fishing spots include the Chaguaramas islands, where fishermen troll for carite, kingfish and cavalli, and bank for redfish, salmon and croakers (grunt). Pelagics such as marlin, sailfish, tarpon, kingfish and wahoo are prized. Fishing tournaments are held year-round.

GolfTrinidad has three 18-hole courses: Moka’s St Andrew’s Golf Club, Trincity’s Millennium Lakes, and Petrotrin’s Pointe-à-Pierre Golf Club. There are nine-hole courses at Brechin Castle, usine Ste Madeleine and Chaguaramas.

HockEYThe hockey year is split in two: the indoor season (September – January) and the outdoor season (March – August, on Tacarigua’s astroturf).

80 81

HorsE rAcInGSanta Rosa Park, Trinidad’s only horse-racing track, is equipped with an AmTote betting system. Thoroughbreds pound the dirt nearly every Saturday and public holiday. There are about 40 race days a year. Big events include the New Year races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, Midsummer Classic, President’s Cup, and the Santa Rosa Classic.

HorsE rIdInGDressage and show jumping instruction is available from Bays & Greys Riding Centre (Santa Cruz), Jericoe Stables (St Ann’s), and Goodwin heights (the St Ann’s 250-acre former coffee and cocoa estate). For trail riding, contact hidden valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza Stud Farm (Arima).

kAYAkInGRiver kayaking is best in the wet season when rivers are full. The Yara, Marianne, and Godineau Rivers are rewarding, and

the Nariva Swamp can only be explored by kayak. Reputable tour companies and guides provide kayaking trips. For sea kayaking, the Kayak Centre in Chaguaramas offers the sheltered waters of Williams Bay, and provides equipment.

mArTIAl ArTsKung fu, karate, bushido, aikido, judo, jujitsu, tai chi, kickboxing ... Several dojos teach martial arts styles. Purple Dragon, founded by Professor Don Jacob, teaches Trinidad’s only indigenous form of karate, Don Jitsu Ryu, and operates several schools locally.

moUnTAIn bIkInGA popular and challenging sport. Trails in Chaguaramas are ideal for beginners: its forest paths and old military and agricultural roads are a popular ride, as are the Santa Cruz valley and the Matura to Matelot stretch. For a lung-burster, try Blanchisseuse to Morne La Croix Road. There are no trail maps, so check with a guide.

s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

crIckETPerhaps the only sport to rival football’s popularity, cricket has gained new interest and new fans thanks to the Twenty/20 format in which the national team is considered a regional powerhouse, despite its third-place finish in the Caribbean T20 tournament in 2010. This is also the home of Brian Lara, the former West Indies captain who has held just about every record available to a batsman. Major matches are staged at the beautiful Queen’s Park Oval. The Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Board is the presiding body.

BELOW: Cricket on a Sunday at the Queen’s Park Savannah (Christopher Daniel)

OPPOSITE PAGE: A participant in a Trinidad & Tobago Rally Club event (Karen Pinheiro)

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E s P o r T s

sAIlInGTrinidad has one of the largest racing fleets in the Caribbean, and Chaguaramas is a major sailing hub. The racing season begins around November/December and continues till May/June. In the dry season winds are stronger (northeast trades, consistent force 4 – 5) than in the wet season (1 – 3). The Sailing Association hosts 16 races, including general-handicap races where any boat can take part.

sUrfInGFrom November to March, north coast beaches (especially Sans Souci) provide attractive swells; the rainy season can offer strong waves as well. Las Cuevas, L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Roughside and Salybia are among other popular

spots. In March, the Surfing Association stages the CSN Sans Souci, the first event in the cross-Caribbean Carib Challenge Cup series, with an international surf festival in May and national championships in July.

TEnnIsThere are public courts at King George v Park in St Clair, and courts for hourly rental at the Trinidad Country Club and some hotels.

YAcHTInGWith its well-serviced marinas, boatyards and sheltered harbours, Chaguaramas is the hub of yachting activity in the region. Immigration and Customs are based at CrewsInn.

moTor sPorTsRally Trinidad is perhaps the biggest motor sports event in T&T, attracting fans and competitors each March from all over the region. Rally Tobago entered its second year in 2010. The Trinidad & Tobago Rally Club (TTRC) hosts legs of the Caribbean Speed Stages Rally Championship. Drag racing is popular, though it is yet to find a permanent base. There are five different rallying locations in south and central Trinidad.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

83

Sunset over Pigeon Point Beach

82 T o b A G o D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

TOBAGO

83 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o

86 87

ACCOMMODATIONTobago may be small, but it finds room for every sort of hospitality.

T o b A G o : A c c o m m o d AT I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

ABOVE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: Plantation Beach Villas, Black Rock

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : A c c o m m o d AT I o n

The Crown Point area, next to the airport, pulls more visitors than anywhere else, and if you like social life, nightlife, and plenty of entertainment options, this is the place to go for. There are both luxury and budget hotels within easy walking distance of the airport, close to Store Bay and Pigeon Point beaches, and an array of restaurants and bars.

The further you go from the airport, the quieter Tobago becomes, and the more space there is for specialist pursuits: eco-vacations, hiking, diving, fishing, biking, birding.

LuxuRY OR BuDGET? OCEAN OR forest? Beach or infinity pool? villa or host home? Room service or self-catering? Ah, decisions, decisions.

89

Blue Waters Inn, near Tobago’s diving mecca at Speyside, has a dive shop and nature trails.

A villa is something one could easily get used to, and for a group it can be very affordable. At the luxury end you can live like royalty, and the simpler, cottage-style properties are very comfortable too. Spectacular views, architecture and service are often part of the deal.

Be prepared for higher rates during peak periods like Christmas, New Year, Easter, Carnival and the Jazz Festival in April. But most occupancy rates fell during the global recession, and prices with them, so there are steals to be had before the economy gets back to normal.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of

this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENTGiven how laid back Tobago is, you might assume that the whole

island shuts down after sunset.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T

NOT SO. ThE entertainment and nightclub scene is

growing fast and becoming more sophisticated. A night on the town in Tobago is a serious affair.

Bars & clubsTobago’s watering holes are

friendly, cheerful places, many

serving intriguing cocktails,

live entertainment, and great

food. Happy hours may well

get the evening going; among

our favourites are the views

and ambience of Sundowners

Bar, the Pavilion Restaurant,

Seahorse Inn, and Blue

Waters Inn.

EntertainmentTobago’s only cinema is

the MovieTowne multiplex

at Gulf City Lowlands Mall. The Itsy bitsy folk Theatre presents dinner theatre

several Tuesdays during the

year. In season, Golden Wooden sculpture at the Kimme Museum, Bethel

90 91

visual artsThere is a small but impressive visual arts community in Tobago.

The Tobago museum (639-3970) at Fort King George in

Scarborough exhibits local art. A number of small galleries and

studios offer art for display or sale, including Trinidad-born

Martin and Rachael Superville’s The Art Gallery; Horizons;

D’Art Yard; Tobago Fine Art; and Café Iguana. Notable Tobago

artists include Jason Nedd, Jim Armstrong, Kevin Ayoung-

Julien, Edward Hernandez, David Knott, and Earl Manswell.

German-born luise kimme (639-0257, www.luisekimme.com,

bookings required) displays her dramatic, larger-than-life-sized

wood and bronze sculptures depicting local characters at her

atmospheric gallery/atelier (The Castle)

in Bethel.

star presents variety shows

and the Scouting for Talent

competition (followed by DJ

music and dancing). If there

are no big festivals or events

on, bars, clubs, hotels and

restaurants feature local music with regular and

rotating headliners.

Nightclubsbar code: technically not

a club but a sports bar, with

two pool tables and plenty of

seating, some of it open-air.

TV screens might be running

sport highlights, Bar Code

events, or live performances

from the bar. The food is truly

varied for a late-night spot,

especially when washed

down with Bar Code signature

drinks.

The G-spot: the latest

addition to the night scene

is in Crown Point, on three

levels. Partying below; food

and drink, and the pool area;

on the middle, entry level;

and a VIP lounge above,

with white voile curtains and

couches in each section.

The shade: perhaps the

undisputed champion of

nightclubs in Tobago, this is

the only open-air venue on

the island. DJs play soca,

dancehall and hip hop, with a

sprinkling of alternative, rock

and reggae during the night.

Sundays are a no-contest. All roads lead to Buccoo and its famous Sunday School street party. Each weekend, revellers dance their way into the new week with this two-act drama that every visitor should experience. From 9pm to 11pm, the action is mainly for visitors, with steelpan music from the Buccaneers and dozens of craft, food and even gambling stalls filling the street and surroundings. From 11pm, the local crowd begins to swell and DJ music continues in the beach facility and neighbouring hendrix Original Sunday School until the party dies out. Make sure you’ve got plenty of energy: on a good night that can mean 5am.

The annual Great Fete Weekend in July is a six-night party at Club Pigeon Point, with DJs, sound systems and live entertainment. The Jazz Experience in April presents great live entertainment in Plymouth, and has the whole island buzzing with parties, barbecues and excitement.

sUndAYscHool

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us

online at discovertnt.com.

T o b A G o : A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T

For a long time, David Maharaj, the owner of Bar Code, wanted to open a sports bar in Scarborough, Tobago’s capital. he thought it could bring new life to the area, celebrate regional culture and talent, and provide “good service, a clean, friendly environment, and excellent food”.

Anyone who goes to Bar Code now can see that Maharaj was on to something. Sports bars were in short supply; the present location was “literally just rubble and dust … a construction site.” But the landlords were willing, and in 1999 the idea in Maharaj’s head began to take shape in the real world. Bar Code opened on October 22, 2000. Maharaj was 25.

A decade later, Bar Code resounds with soca music. It stages Carnival shows and hosts top artists like Machel Montano, Rupee, Problem Child, and Alison hinds. According to Maharaj, its burgers and jerk wings are still rated the best on the island.

he seems surprised to have lasted so long, and to have learned so much along the way. he talks a lot about his business partner, Alicia, who has been with Bar Code since opening day, originally as an employee. “Everywhere along the way,” Maharaj says, “she has been the backbone.”

One thing has made all the difference, he thinks: “Pride. A Tobagonian, running and owning a business, serving the community, giving them options, exposing them to standards that were not there before, and contributing to the progress of entertainment in Tobago.”

MADE IN T&T

92 93T o b A G o : b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

BEAChESIf you find a single beach in Tobago that doesn’t tempt you to take

a quick dip or a soak in the sun, please tell us about it.

Buccoo Reef and the Nylon

Pool, and watersports are

well catered for. (While jet-

skis are popular, we advise

against them because of their

environmental impact.) There

are toilets and showers, and

lifeguards on duty.

EvEN SO, certain beaches really stand out.

We’ve rated six of our favourites for accessibility, cleanliness, facilities (like toilets and changing rooms), on-site refreshments (bars, restaurants, vendors), safety, ambience, and the quality of the swimming.

PIGEon PoInT (4.7/5)Location: Crown PointThis is probably Tobago’s

most famous beach. There’s

a little journey to get there

(which is fine if you have

a vehicle, or don’t mind a

little walk), and an entry fee

(TT$18), but you’re sure to

recognise the distinctive

cabana at the end of the

jetty. The beach scores high

for accessibility, cleanliness,

amenities, safety, and clear

shallow water: swimming

and snorkelling are a dream.

Food and beverage vendors

are on hand; Renmar’s, the

beach bar, has a surprisingly

large range of drinks and

cocktails. Glass-bottom

boats leave from here to

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : b E A c H E s

OPPOSITE PAGE: Turtle Beach, Black Rock ABOVE: The calm waters of Pigeon Point Beach

on the leeward side of the island

94 95

sTorE bAY (4.25/5)Location: Crown PointTobago’s second most popular

beach, after Pigeon Point, near

hotels and the airport. The

water is good for swimming,

and there are lifeguards,

showers and toilets (small

fee), and food and beverage

vendors. The beach experience

here ranks high for accessibility,

cleanliness, amenities,

safety, and idyllic water. The

beach is usually busy, and

the one disadvantage could

be the number of vendors

(for beach chairs, reef tours,

jewellery, etc.). But their zeal

can generally be neutralised

by a friendly “no thanks”.

Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool

glass-bottom boat tours leave

from here through the early

afternoon.

cAnoE bAY (3.5/5) Location: Cove Estate, LowlandsThis is a private beach with

an entrance fee of TT$12. It is

one of the calmest beaches

in Tobago, perfect for children

since there are practically no

concerns about aggressive

tides or currents. Changing

facilities are available, and a

bar which also provides food.

EnGlIsHmAn’s bAY (3.5/5)Location: west coast, off Northside RoadThis quiet secluded beach

is one of Tobago’s best-kept

secrets: half a mile or so of

powdery sand, hugged by lush

vegetation and hidden from

the main road – you could

easily find yourself one of just

a few people there. Great

snorkelling, and a restaurant

serving local food.

bloodY bAY (3/5)

Location: west coast, between Parlatuvier and L’Anse FourmiDon’t let the name fool you: this

is one of the most unspoilt and

peaceful beaches in Tobago.

The golden sand, clear blue

water and the odd fisherman

may be your only company.

This quiet, no-frills beach

scores for its great swimming

and cleanliness, but if you need

on-site amenities like food or

changing rooms, you’ll need

to look elsewhere or bring your

own supplies.

bAck bAY (2.5/5)Location: near Plymouth, accessed via a cliffside trailThis is a beautiful and often

deserted beach. There’s

even a little pool that nature

seems to have made just

for two, where water flows

in and out with the tide. It

has great natural beauty and

placidity, but because of the

isolation, with no amenities or

lifeguards, we strongly advise

you to go with a group.

T o b A G o : b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

other top Tobago beaches

mt Irvine: great swimming, snorkelling,

watersports and amenities, with a fish market

on site

stonehaven bay: good swimming and

snorkelling. Turtles nest here in season

Great courland bay: good swimming, with

kayaks and hobie cats for hire. Turtles nest

here in season

Arnos Vale bay: perhaps Tobago’s best

snorkelling, with a reef just offshore and the

beautiful old waterwheel nearby

culloden bay: good for snorkelling (not so

much for swimming). Nearby Footprints Eco

Resort offers birding trails as well as a bar and

facilities

castara bay: good swimming, facilities and

amenities, fresh bread made in traditional dirt

ovens, with a nearby waterfall and seine fishing

in the afternoon

Parlatuvier bay: good facilities, snorkelling,

fish market and a chance to see magnificent

frigatebirds

Pirate’s bay, charlotteville: 144 steps lead

down to this beautiful, pink-sand beach, with

calm water and good swimming/snorkelling

speyside: good snorkelling, glass-bottom

boat trips to Angel Reef, Goat Island and Little

Tobago, and a hub of diving activity. Enjoy

facilities at nearby Jemma’s Treehouse Kitchen

blue waters beach: good snorkelling,

swimming and facilities. Glass-bottom boat

tours leave from the pier

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

TIPs& TrIcks

lifeguards are typically on duty 9am – 5pm or 10am

– 6pm where available, but not

at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas

Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : b E A c H E s

Store Bay, Crown Point

96 97T o b A G o : E AT T I n G o U T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

ABOVE: Curried crab and dumpling OPPOSITE PAGE: Miss Jean’s menu, Store Bay

EATING OuTThe food is one thing, the setting is another:

luckily no one has to choose which is the more gratifying.

TOBAGO hAS SOME FINE AND MEMORABLE RESTAuRANTS, which somehow manage to combine elegance and homeliness. Some are comfortably air-conditioned; at others you can enjoy the warm island breeze and perhaps an ocean or garden view from the patio or the bar. Menus are

remarkably varied, from top-class Italian to freshly-caught lobster. Some of the best kitchens blend international cuisine with island variations and flavours.

Tobago specialitiesPeople will tell you that you

certainly can’t leave Tobago

without tasting curried crab

and dumplings. They’re right.

This is Tobago’s signature

dish: filling, tasty, lavish and

irresistible. Seafood is always

a good option in Tobago, as

fresh catch is close at hand.

“Blue food” is the name given

to ground provisions and root

vegetables: you will often find

it used as a staple. Among

Tobago’s other treats are sugar

cake (a sweet, colourful snack

made from grated coconut

and sugar) and bene balls.

Bene is a west African word

for sesame seeds, which,

when mixed with molasses,

produce a hard and delicious

sweet that comes in bricks

and sticks as well.

For more information, see the Service

Directory at the back of this book, and

visit us online at discovertnt.com.

Local foodDon’t confine yourself to the restaurants, excellent as they may be,

or even the fast-food chains. Across the island you will find small

roadside eateries which serve home-cooked creole food and fresh

fruit juices. At Store Bay, ten minutes’ walk from the airport, six

small kiosks sell a classic range of local favourites. It would be a

shame to leave Tobago without remembering its authentic taste.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : E AT T I n G o U T

98 99

ECO-ADvENTuRETobago’s natural environment is one of the

best reasons for a visit.

TOBAGO has been voted the world’s top eco-tourism destination (World Travel Awards,

2003). Like Trinidad, Tobago was once part of the South American mainland, and has inherited tremendous biodiversity concentrated in a small area and easily accessible. here are some of our favourite places and activities.

T o b A G o : E c o - A d V E n T U r E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

On landAdventure nature reserve: this 12-acre estate in Arnos

Vale shelters wild birds,

and its prolific flora attract

many species of butterflies.

Established organic orchards

include mango and citrus.

Grafton caledonia wildlife bird sanctuary: formerly

a cocoa plantation, now a

nature centre complete with

winding trails frequented by

the “king of the woods”, the

motmot. Twice-daily feedings

guarantee excellent bird

sightings.

offshore islands: superlative places for bird-

watching. Imposing frigate

birds circle high above the

ocean, and roost on St Giles.

Rare red-billed tropicbirds

nest on Little Tobago from

December – July.

Trails: hiking, mountain

biking and horseback trails

carry you into the heart of

Tobago. The Main Ridge

forest is easily accessibly by

the Gilpin and Niplig trails.

Biking enthusiasts can opt for

easy trails, like those passing

through the boardwalk around

the Lowlands area, or extreme

mountain trails that can be

reached only on foot. All offer

spectacular views. Guides are

recommended and in some

places required.

The Buccoo Reef and Bon Accord Lagoon Complex is Tobago’s first Ramsar Site, a wetland of international importance; Buccoo Reef has been a protected marine park since 1973. The island’s abundant flora and fauna include:

210 recorded bird species • 133 species of butterflies (including the • impressive blue emperor)25 species of snake (none of them poisonous)• 17 species of bats• 14 species of frog• 12 species of mammals• 5 species of marine turtles (including the • endangered giant leatherback)6 species of lizard.•

A world ofdIVErsITY

Turtle-watching: one of Tobago’s best-known nature activities

is watching the ancient nesting ritual of the sea turtles (March-

August). Although five species of marine turtle can be found

in Tobago, the most common are the giant leatherback,

hawksbill and green. All (and their eggs) are legally protected.

Leatherbacks come ashore primarily in Black Rock, while the

hawksbills prefer the coral reefs of the northeast. Greens can be

found near seagrass beds around the island.

waterfalls: experienced guides can lead you through the

rainforest to hidden waterfalls, or to the three-tiered Argyle Falls

near Roxborough, which is part of the essential Tobago circuit.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : E c o - A d V E n T U r E

ABOVE: A green iguana on ixora flowers (Giancarlo Lalsingh) OPPOSITE PAGE: A critically endangered leatherback hatchling makes its way to the sea (GL)

100 101T o b A G o : E c o - A d V E n T U r E D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

THIS PAGE: Kingfisher

OPPOSITE PAGE: Blue-headed

wrasse, Mt Irvine reef (Giancarlo

Lalsingh)

On waterdiving & snorkelling: available around the island

for every level of expertise.

Drift snorkelling and diving

in coastal areas minimises

damage to the living reefs.

In addition to the tropical

fish, from November – June

huge manta rays glide silently

alongside the undersea visitor.

Make sure your chosen dive

operator is a member of the

Association of Tobago Dive

Operators.

Game fishing: for those

who prefer catching fish to

swimming alongside them, the

T&T Game Fishing Association

runs multiple fishing

tournaments. Blue marlin

over 800lb have been caught

here. Environmentally sound

techniques are employed:

non-champion-sized catches

are tagged and returned to

the sea. Tobago’s peak fishing

season is November – May.

Glass-bottom boat tours: eternally popular, suitable for

all ages and fitness levels, and

revealing the beauty of worlds

beneath the surface without

even getting you wet. A tour

of Buccoo Reef includes the

intriguingly named Nylon Pool,

and the other-worldly Coral

Gardens replete with staghorn

and star coral, sea fans and

TIPs & TrIcks

Permits are needed for some locations and activities (like camping and turtle-watching): ask your tour operator

don’t attempt a long hike or difficult trail without a reputable, certified guide: it’s easy to get lost or have an accident

when turtle-watching, do not use flash photography, touch or otherwise disturb nesting turtles, as this can cause them severe distress

make sure that any guide or tour company you choose is properly certified.

other octocorals. Speyside

visitors have a chance to see

the world’s largest brain coral.

watersports: enjoy kite

surfing, kayaking, and jet

skiing? Pigeon Point, Mt

Irvine and Charlotteville are

popular spots. For traditional

surfboarding, Mt Irvine and

Grange Bay are exceptional;

and the wind is just right for

kite surfing at Little Rockly

Bay. Chartered boats sail up

the coast serving refreshments

in a wonderful Caribbean

atmosphere. We advise

against jet ski use, though,

owing to the environmental

impact.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : E c o - A d V E n T U r E

102

FESTIvALSThere’s scarcely a month in Tobago without a festival of some kind.

These are some of our favourites.

TobAGo HErITAGE fEsTIVAl The Tobago heritage Festival, started in 1987, is dedicated to preserving the cultural traditions of the people of the island. Aside from the opening and closing nights, the productions take you to different villages for dances, food, music, storytelling and other traditions. Each year has its own theme. Among regular productions are the Ole Time Tobago Wedding in Moriah, Folk Tales and Superstitions in Golden Lane and Les Coteaux, and Games We used to Play. The festival runs from mid-July – August 1.

bUccoo GoAT & crAb rAcInG fEsTIVAl & mT PlEAsAnT GoAT rAcEStarted almost 80 years ago, goat racing was a “regular folks” response to the colonial class’s pastime of racing thoroughbred horses in Trinidad. The event is held on Easter Monday and Tuesday at Mt Pleasant and Buccoo, the main location. All the trappings of horse racing are there – stables, trainers, live commentators – except that the “jockeys” have to run alongside their steeds. And as for the crabs ...

T o b A G o : f E s T I VA l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Tobago Heritage Festival, Moriah wedding procession dancing in the street (CaféMoka)

104 105T o b A G o : f E s T I VA l s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

cArnIVAl Tobago’s Carnival season coincides with Trinidad’s, but is even more laid back. It focuses more on the theatrical and folk elements, especially traditional mud mas (said to be therapeutic for the skin), which of course necessitates an ocean swim afterwards. The Tobago house of Assembly’s Inter-department Queen and Calypso Show, and the Roxborough Afro-Queen and Windward Calypso Show are staple seasonal events.

GrEAT fêTE & cArIb GrEAT rAcEThe Great Race (August) draws Trinidadians to Tobago in droves. First held in 1969, this 84-mile speedboat race from Port of Spain to Tobago’s Crown Point ends in the ultimate beach party (which starts well before the boats reach the finish line and ends in the wee hours of the next morning). The race starts early in the morning, and the first boats normally arrive on the beach at about 9am. Originally tied to the Great Race festivities, Tobago’s Great Fête Weekend (July/August) is now a separate five-day beach party at Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Mt Irvine.

HArVEsT fEsTIVAls & fIsHErmAn’s fEsTIVAls harvest festivals were originally village thanksgivings for the produce of the previous year. People invited friends from other villages to join them at church ceremonies and something to eat afterwards. The tradition mushroomed into massive village cookouts, always on a Sunday, visitors welcome. Fisherman’s festivals are held in the coastal villages, mainly on St Peter’s Day (June 29). Like the harvest festivals, they begin with church services in the morning and end with eating, drinking, and partying into the night.

TobAGo blUE food fEsTIVAl The Blue Food Festival celebrates the use of local root crops in food preparation, especially dasheen. “Blue food” covers any root crop from the ground, like sweet potato, cassava, or yam. Why blue? Some varieties of dasheen can turn blue or indigo when cooked, so the expression has become a catchall for root crops in general. The event is hosted by the village councils of Bloody Bay, L’Anse Fourmi and Parlatuvier in early to mid-October, in the lead up to National Tourism Week. A blue-food cooking competition is the festival highlight: skilled cooks compete to create fine dishes from dasheen. Some of these might surprise you: the entire dasheen plant is used to make bread, cookies, lasagne, even ice cream. A cultural show, a mini-zoo and sometimes a queen show entertain the crowd.

TobAGo cUlInArY fEsTIVAlProduced each May by the Tourism Department of the ThA, this free international event at Pigeon Point invites you to sample dishes from around the world, especially those native to Tobago.

TobAGo JAZZ EXPErIEncEThis is a reincarnation of the Tobago Jazz Festival, now held at Pigeon Point heritage Park. The 2010 version featured R&B star Chaka Khan, who closed out the four-day event, and neo-soul sensation Erykah Badu. Previous events have attracted Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J Blige, Sting, Diana Ross, and George Benson. Though marketed as a jazz event, the festival draws on talent from several genres, including calypso, soca and chutney. It is normally held during the last week of April, from Thursday to Sunday. Jazz purists flock Tobago for Jazz on the Beach at Mt Irvine.

TobAGo mUHTAdI InTErnATIonAl drUmmInG fEsTIVAlStarted in Canada by Trinidad-born Muhtadi Thomas, the Muhtadi International Drumming Festival has had a Tobago edition each August since 2005. Drummers from all over the globe celebrate the personality of the drum in all its forms over two days, with daytime workshops and live performances at night. The event has drawn performers from the Ivory Coast, Guadeloupe, India, and of course, Trinidad & Tobago.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : f E s T I VA l s

A drummer heats his bongo drumskin in the flames at the Tobago Heritage Festival (CaféMoka)

106 T O B A G O : s H O P P I N G D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M

And for gift ideas?Art: You never know what

will turn up in the galleries or

artists’ studios: sometimes it’s

a gem. A visit to German-born

artist Luise Kimme is likely to

be a memorable experience:

her work includes many

dramatic, larger-than-life

sculptures from oak, cedar,

lime, cypress and bronze,

and her studio at Bethel (“The

Castle”) is a work of art in

itself. Visit on a Sunday, or call

to arrange an appointment.

Batik: The Cotton House

carries a large collection of

handmade batik items, and

lets visitors see how batik

fabrics are created. Beautiful

wall hangings and garments

are popular batik products.

Craft: Interesting craft pieces

can be found at stalls near

the more popular beaches,

and boutique stores often

carry high-quality craft items:

handmade pottery, ceramics,

jewellery, soap, wood carvings,

beachwear. Several craft

kiosks at the Store Bay Beach

facilities sell local and imported

beachwear and souvenirs.

SHOPPINGShopping choices in Tobago expanded with the opening of Gulf City Lowlands Mall, the island’s first venture into genuine mall shopping.

CuSTOMERS fOuND THEy COulD easily get used to the air-conditioned mall environment, the secure parking, the food court, the range of shops and the MovieTowne

cineplex that is part of the Gulf City lowlands development.

Duty-free shopping is limited to two shops at the airport, but supermarkets and mini-marts are plentiful enough for everyday needs. for fruit and vegetables, and the many other items that markets handle, try the Scarborough market, especially on Saturdays. fish is best bought fresh in the afternoon wherever fishermen have some to sell.

109

food: Tobago has its own favourite, home-

made snacks: bene balls, sugar cake, nut cake

and tamarind balls can be found at little stalls

and shops around the island, and at Crown

Point airport opposite the check-in area, the

perfect parting souvenir.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of

this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

Bene balls, a hard sweet made of sesame seeds and molasses SIGhTSEEINGIn Tobago, you see just as much or as little as you want.

WhEN YOu FEEL LIKE STIRRING, BOOK A TOuR WITh A registered tour operator, or rent a vehicle and go exploring on your own. If you limit your stops, you can tour the entire island in a day. here are 20 of our favourite places (in no particular order):

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ABOVE: Fort King George, Scarborough

110 111

store bay: one of Tobago’s

most popular beaches, great

for swimming and snorkelling.

There’s craft shopping, and a

restaurant; glass-bottom boat

tours leave from here.

fort milford: a perfect spot

for enjoying a Tobago sunset.

Overlooking the Leeward

coast, this fort was built in

1777 by the British. Only a

few cannon and walls remain.

Pigeon Point Heritage Park: this beach, with its distinctive

jetty and carat-thatched

cabana, is a vibrant spot. A

prime party location, it offers

good food, shopping, and

watersports. Some glass-

bottom boat tours leave here

for Buccoo Reef.

buccoo reef & nylon Pool: stretching from Pigeon Point

to Buccoo Bay, an arc of five

reef flats is home to some 40

species of coral. It is rich in

marine life, from tiny jewelfish

to reef sharks and barracuda.

The Nylon Pool is a warm,

metre-deep sandbar in the

lagoon: it’s said swimming

here will make you feel ten

years younger, and lovers who

kiss underwater are destined

to remain together forever.

Hmmm. Glass-bottom boat

tours leave Pigeon Point and

Store Bay twice daily.

kimme museum (“The castle”): workshop and

gallery of German-born

sculptor Luise Kimme, who

carves three-metre-high

Tobago dancers and folklore

characters from solid slabs

of German wood. Open

Sundays 10am – 2pm, small

entrance fee: 639-0257, www.

luisekimme.com.

Grafton caledonia wildlife sanctuary: a former cocoa

estate which evolved into a

bird sanctuary after 1963’s

Hurricane Flora. Offers nature

trails and scenic hiking.

Scarboroughfort king George & Tobago museum: Tobago’s main fort,

perched 140m (460ft) above

sea level, has magnificent

views of Scarborough, Bacolet,

the windward coast, and

Lowlands. The fort, Tobago’s

best preserved, includes a

military cemetery, an old chapel

and a cell block. The Tobago

Museum has displays on

Tobago’s early Amerindian era

and colonial days.

Crown Point & the southwest

botanical Gardens (above): these sprawling grounds with their

majestic trees and fine views provide a chance to relax among

brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees, and avenues of royal palms.

T o b A G o : T o U r I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

bon Accord lagoon: a popular spot for bird-

watchers; some boatmen take

visitors to a small white-sand

beach inside the lagoon called

No Man’s Land for barbecues.

Plymouth: the Courlander

Monument is a striking

sculpture commemorating

17th-century settlers from

Courland (now part of Latvia).

Fort James lies at the far end

of the village; and a “mystery

tombstone” carries the

cryptic inscription: “She was

a mother without knowing it,

and a wife without letting her

husband know it, except by

her kind indulgences to him.”

fort bennett (above): a beautiful lookout point over Stonehaven

Bay, complete with a little pavilion and small garden.

Leeward coastAdventure farm & nature reserve: this 12-acre organic estate grows a variety of fruit. It

supports birdlife, has created a butterfly garden, and is a shelter for endangered species.

Arnos Vale river Estate & waterwheel: beautiful and rustic, featuring one of the best-

preserved colonial-era waterwheels (1857) on the islands, great birdwatching opportunities, and

several nature trails, one to an Amerindian site and former slave village.

main ridge: rising to 576m (1,890ft), this spinal ridge runs down two-thirds of the island.

Declared a protected forest reserve in 1776, it is the oldest in the western hemisphere. A

favourite trail is Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute walk to a waterfall. A certified guide is strongly

recommended.

charlotteville: legendary for its peace and beauty. An excellent dive centre with its own dive shops.

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112 113

If you decide to drive yourself around in Tobago, note that gas stations are concentrated around the Scarborough and Crown Point areas, so if you’re driving up the coasts, make sure you top up your tank first. If you plan to drive into the mountains or off-road, consider a 4WD vehicle. Take extreme care while driving at night outside the southwest, since you can’t count on street lighting.

TIPs & TrIcks

T o b A G o : T o U r I n G D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Crusoe’s Cave, Crown Point

Windward coastGranby Point: a relaxing stop-off point on your

way up the windward coast. A beachfront area

and playground lie below the fort.

Argyle falls: Tobago’s best-known waterfall

and a highlight of the windward coast drive.

A 15-minute walk brings you to this beautiful

three-tiered fall. A guide, available at the visitor

centre, is recommended. Entrance fee, www.

argylewaterfall.com.

speyside: the hub of Tobago’s diving industry,

known for its own fantastic diving. There are

magnificent views from the Speyside Lookout

south of the village. Speyside has remained

charmingly subdued despite its popularity.

There’s a tourist office, dive shops, watersports

operators and good restaurants.

little Tobago: just 2km2 (1.2 sq miles), this tiny

offshore island is a trekkers’ and bird-watcher’s

idyll. Once a haven for birds of paradise

imported from New Guinea (and later wiped

out by hurricanes), the island is now a bird

sanctuary. Glass-bottom boat tours (TT$150)

depart from Speyside and Blue Waters Inn.

flagstaff Hill: at the northern tip of Tobago,

reached via an unpaved road from the crest of

the hill before descending into Charlotteville.

It was the site of an American military lookout

and radio tower during World War II. The view is

panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and

the village of Charlotteville.

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of

this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

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114 115

SPORTSTobago is a world-class diving location, but aficionados of other

sports will find lots do as well, both on land and on water.

T o b A G o : s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

dIVInGTobago is a prime international dive location, with over 60 established sites (mainly around the northern coasts) offering everything from shallow reef dives to deep diving, wreck diving and drift diving. There are turtles, sharks, moray eels, barracuda, tarpon, parrotfish, rays (sting, eagle and manta), huge corals (big brain), sponges and sea fans. Most operators offer introductory courses. There is a recompression chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility, 20 minutes’ drive from Speyside. Diving with a PADI registered operator is strongly recommended, and be sure to dive with a member of the Association of Tobago Dive Operators. Association of Tobago Dive Operators: www.tobagoscubadiving.com. Cost around $100 – 125 for a morning trip

ABOVE: Diving at Speyside (Stephen Broadbridge)

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crIckETScarborough’s Shaw Park is Tobago’s premier cricket ground, hosting regional first-class fixtures and top local league games. Impromptu games are played anywhere. Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Board, W: www.ttcricketboard.com T: 636-1577

cYclInGThere are two annual international cycling events in Tobago: West Indies v Rest of the World, and the Tobago Cycling Classic. Parts of the Beacon Cycling Series take place in Tobago, and the Rainbow Triathlon Club arranges several events. Tobago Cycling: 639-5053

fooTbAllTobago united play T&T Pro League matches at the Dwight Yorke Stadium in Bacolet, while ad-hoc matches are staged on beaches and parks everywhere. Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation (TTFF), T: 623-7312, W: www.ttffonline.com; T&T Pro League, T: 645-4489, W: www.ttproleague.com

GyMS & fiTneSShead for one of the larger hotels: most have well-equipped gyms

HorsE rIdInG

You can enjoy horseback riding on some beaches, including Stonehaven, Grand Courland and Canoe Bays. There are woodland trails in the lower half of the island. Most hotels can organise trips, and there is an office at Canoe Bay. Trinidad & Tobago Equestrian Association: www.ttea.4t.com

moUnTAIn bIkInG

Tobago provides some great terrain for mountain bikers of all levels, from breathtaking downhills to easy coast cruises: coastal tracks, rainforest rides through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, isolated beaches

and remote villages, some inaccessible by car. Warning: muddy trails can be hazardous in the wet season. NB: No map of the trails has been produced, so ride with a guide if you want to find the best (and safest) routes. Cost: US$40 – 50 for rides up to four hours

sAIlInGThe dry season (December – May) is the best time for sailing. Most of the north coast bays offer good daytime anchorage, but only professional captains should attempt the windward side. The Tobago Carnival Regatta (formerly Sail Week) is a popular annual event, for partying as well as sailing, and provides racing for varying levels. Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, T: 634-4210, W: www.ttsailing.org

sPorT fIsHInGThe key offshore seasons are: October – April for marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna and dorado; and May – September for barracuda, kingfish, bonito, and snapper. There are two major tournaments: the Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament at Charlotteville (www.tgft.com); and the Trinidad & Tobago Game Fishing Association Tournament at Speyside (www.ttgfa.com, 624-5304). There have been record catches in recent years, with a junior world record 400kg (890lb) blue marlin caught in the 2008 TTGFA tournament. Conservation is important, so competitions and charters use the tag-and-release system. Cost: US$500 for an eight-hour trip

sUrfInGThe season is November – April, but surfers always keep a keen eye on the sea during hurricane season. Mt Irvine and Bacolet are major surfing spots, with board rentals and lessons available. Surfing Association Trinidad & Tobago: www.surfingtt.org

116 117T o b A G o : s P o r T s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

GolfTobago has two 18-hole golf courses, at Mt Irvine hotel and Tobago Plantations. Costs: approximately uS$40 – $100. Trinidad & Tobago Golf Association: 629-7127, www.trinidadandtobagogolfassociation.com

Mt Irvine Golf Course, Tobago (Mark Lyndersay)

TEnnIs

Several hotels have their own tennis facilities and will provide racquets and balls. There are public courts at Store Bay. Tobago Tennis Association, T: 769-0218

TrIATHlonsCompetitions and training events, such as May’s Rainbow Cup International Triathlon at Grafton Beach, are held during the year. Rainbow Warriors Triathlon Club, W: www.rainbowtri.com, T: 632-9004; Cyclones Triathlon Academy, T: 301-1888/637-9860

wATErsPorTsEquipment rental and lessons in all manner of watersports – kite surfing, jet skiing, parasailing, surfing, kayaking, water skiing – are readily available at beaches islandwide, particularly in the Crown Point and Speyside areas

YAcHTInGIf you’re arriving in Tobago by yacht, check in with customs and immigration in Scarborough or Charlotteville, the two official ports of entry. There are no official anchorage sites, but Mt Irvine Bay, Grafton

Athletics: Tobago Athletic Committee, 660-7655

basketball: Tobago Basketball Zonal Commission, 620-8487

Hockey: Trinidad & Tobago Hockey Board, www.tthb.tstt.net.tt

rugby: Tobago Rugby Football Club, 639-5374

Table tennis: Tobago Table Tennis Association, 750-4608

Power boating: Trinidad & Tobago Powerboat Association, www.ttpba.com

Volleyball: Tobago Volleyball Association, 660-7063

sports company of Trinidad & Tobago: 636-1401, www.sportt-tt.com

Trinidad & Tobago olympic committee: 625-1285, www.ttoc.org

morEsPorTs

2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A R Y I S S u E T o b A G o : s P o r T s

For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of

this book, and visit us online at discovertnt.com.

Beach, Store Bay and Englishman’s Bay are all popular. On the southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a good anchorage and fuelling point.

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BUSINESS ADDRESS COST* ISLAND TEL. WEB

Accommodation

Belleviste Apartments Crown Point $$ Tobago 639-9351 www.belleviste.com

Blue Haven Hotel Bacolet Bay $$$ Tobago 660-7500 www.bluehavenhotel.com

Crown Point Beach Hotel Crown Point $$$ Tobago 639-8781 www.crownpointbeachhotel.com

Plantation Beach Villas Black Rock $$$$ Tobago 639-9377 www.plantationbeachvillas.com

Tropikist Hotel Crown Point $$, $$$ Tobago 639-8512 www.tropikist.com

Villa Sans Souci Tobago Plantations, Lowlands $$$$ Tobago 628-3334 www.villa-sans-souci.com

Villas at Stonehaven Black Rock $$$$ Tobago 639-0361 www.stonehavenvillas.com

Alicia’s House 7 Coblentz Gardens, St Ann’s $$ Trinidad 623-2802 www.aliciashouse.com

The Allamanda 61 Carlos St., Woodbrook $$ Trinidad 622-1480

Cara Suites Southern Main Road, Claxton Bay, San Fernando $$$ Trinidad 659-2272 www.carahotels.com

Carlton Savannah 2-4 Coblentz Ave., Cascade $$$ Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.com

Courtyard by Marriott Invaders Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain $$$ Trinidad 627-5555 www.courtyard.com/poscy

Hacienda Jacana PO Box 6, Port of Spain $$$$ Trinidad 498-7597 www.haciendajacana.com

Hilton Trinidad Lady Young Rd., Morvant $$$ Trinidad 624-3211 www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad

Holiday Inn Express Hotel 1 Exposition Drive, Trincity $$$ Trinidad 669-6681 www.hiexpress.com

Hyatt Regency Hotel 1 Wrightson Rd., Port of Spain $$$$ Trinidad 623-2222 www.trinidad.hyatt.com

Kapok Hotel 16–18 Cotton Hill, St Clair $$$ Trinidad 622-5765 www.kapokhotel.com

Monique’s Guesthouse 114–116 Saddle Rd., Maraval $$, $$$ Trinidad 628-3334 www.moniquestrinidad.com

Mt Plaisir Estate Hotel Grande Rivière, Toco $$, $$$ Trinidad 670-1868 www.mtplaisir.com

Par-May-La’s 53 Picton St., Woodbrook, POS $ Trinidad 628-2008 www.parmaylas.com

Royal Hotel 46–54 Royal Rd., San Fernando $$$ Trinidad 652-4881 www.royalhoteltt.com

The Royal Palm Suite Hotel 7A Saddle Road, Maraval $$, $$$ Trinidad 628-5086 www.royalpalm.co.tt

Tradewinds Hotel 38 London St., St Joseph Village, San Fernando $$ Trinidad 652-9463 www.tradewindshotel.net

Dining & Nightlife

Bar Code Corner Mt. Marie & Milford Rds., Scarborough $$ Tobago 635-2633 www.barcodetobago.com

Adam’s Bagels 15A Saddle Rd., Maraval $ Trinidad 622-2435

Angelo’s 38 Ariapita Ave., Woodbrook $, $$ Trinidad 628-5551

Cara Suites Southern Main Road, Claxton Bay, San Fernando $$ Trinidad 659-2272 www.carahotels.com

Carlton Savannah 2-4 Coblentz Ave., Cascade $$ Trinidad 621-5000 www.thecarltonsavannah.com

Hilton Trinidad Lady Young Rd., Morvant $$ Trinidad 624-3211 www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad

Hyatt Regency Hotel 1 Wrightson Rd., Port of Spain $$ Trinidad 821-6467 www.trinidad.hyatt.com

Kapok Hotel 16–18 Cotton Hill, St Clair $ Trinidad 622-5765 www.kapokhotel.com

Space La Nouba La Romaine $$ Trinidad 697-1165 www.spacetrinidad.com

Subway Lot 21 Frederick Settlement, Caroni $ Trinidad 645-8158

Tradewinds Hotel 38 London St., St Joseph Village, San Fernando $$ Trinidad 652-9463 www.tradewindshotel.net

Veni Mangé 67A Ariapita Ave., Woodbrook $$ Trinidad 624-4597 www.venimange.com

Zanzibar Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne, Invaders Bay $$ Trinidad 627-0752

SERVICE DIRECTORY

S e r v i c e D i r e c t o r y D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I V E R S A R Y I S S U E S e r v i c e D i r e c t o r y

* Price range (US$): $: under $50; $$: $50 – $100; $$$: $100 – $200; $$$$: $200 and over.

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BUSINESS ADDRESS ISLAND TEL. WEB

touring & travel

Frankie’s Tours Mt. Irvine Tobago 631-0369 www.frankietours-tobago.com

Plantation Beach Watersports Black Rock Tobago 639-9377 www.sailtobago.com

Sherman’s Auto Rentals Lambeau Village Tobago 639-2292 www.shermansrental.com

Thrifty Car Rental Crown Point Tobago 639-8507 www.thrifty.com

American Airlines 69 Independence Square, Port of Spain Trinidad 821-6000 www.aa.com

Auto Rentals Lady Young Rd., Morvant Trinidad 675-7368 www.autorentalstt.com

Caribbean Airlines Ltd. Nicholas Towers, Independence Square, Port of Spain Trinidad 625-7200 www.caribbean-airlines.com

Caribbean Discovery Tours 9B Fondes Amandes, St Ann’s Trinidad 624-7281 www.caribbeandiscoverytours.com

Chaguaramas Development Authority Airways Road, Chaguaramas Trinidad 634-4227 www.chagdev.com

Kalloo’s Auto Rentals 31 French St., Port of Spain Trinidad 622-9073 www.kalloos.com

Port Authority of Trinidad & Tobago Wrightson Rd., Port of Spain Trinidad 623-9353 www.patnt.com

T&T Sightseeing Tours 165A Western Main Rd., St James Trinidad 628-1051 www.trintours.com

Business & communications

Abraham Tobago Realty Bacolet St., Scarborough Tobago 639-3325 www.abrahamrealty.com

Caribbean Estates, Lands and Villas Cor. Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan Tobago 639-5263 www.realestatetobago.com

Tobago House of Assembly 12 Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough Tobago 639-2125 www.visittobago.com

Central Bank Eric Williams Plaza, Independence Sq., Port of Spain Trinidad 625-2601 www.central-bank.org.tt

National Gas Company of

Trinidad & Tobago Pt. Lisas Industrial Estate, Pt. Lisas Trinidad 636-4662 www.ngc.co.tt

Republic Bank Head Office, 11–17 Park St., Port of Spain Trinidad 625-4411 www.republictt.com

Smithy Shipping and Hardware 58-60 George St., Port of Spain Trinidad 686-8817

Telecommunications Services of

Trinidad & Tobago Head Office, 1 Edward St., Port of Spain Trinidad 625-4431 www.bmobile.co.tt

TDC Convention Bureau 29 Tenth Avenue, Barataria Trinidad 675-7034 www.tdc.co.tt

The Office Authority 60A Boundary Rd. Ext., San Juan Trinidad 674-1884 www.cppp93.com

Tourism Development Company Ltd. 29 Tenth Avenue, Barataria Trinidad 675-7034 www.tdc.co.tt

Tucker Real Estate 167 Western Main Rd., St James Trinidad 628-9307 www.tuckerrealestate.com

Spas

Face & Body Clinic Cross Crossing Shopping Plaza, San Fernando Trinidad 653-8329 www.faceandbodyclinic.com

Shopping

Lagniappe Duty Free Crown Point Airport Tobago 639-0326

B&Tees 12 Diamond Vale Industrial Estate, Diamond Vale Trinidad 637-3412 www.nativespirittees.com

Excellent City Centre 3-5 Frederick St., Port of Spain Trinidad 623-6464 www.excellentstorestt.com

SERVICE DIRECTORY continued

S e r v i c e D i r e c t o r y D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I V E R S A R Y I S S U E S e r v i c e D i r e c t o r y

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Brasso

Diego Martin Paramin

El Socorro Curepe

Lopinot

Brasso Seco

Grande Rivière

Manzanilla

Mayaro

Manzanilla Bay

Rushville

Barrackpore

San Francique

Los Bajos

Mac

quer

ipe

Bay

ScotlandBay

Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust

Pitch Lake

and Bush-BushSanctuary

MayaroBay

Asa WrightNature Centre

Salybia Bay

Saline (“Sally”) Bay

Galera Point

f

TR

INID

AD

m A P s : T r I n I d A d D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M

Brasso

Diego Martin Paramin

El Socorro Curepe

Lopinot

Brasso Seco

Grande Rivière

Manzanilla

Mayaro

Manzanilla Bay

Rushville

Barrackpore

San Francique

Los Bajos

Mac

quer

ipe

Bay

ScotlandBay

Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust

Pitch Lake

and Bush-BushSanctuary

MayaroBay

Asa WrightNature Centre

Salybia Bay

Saline (“Sally”) Bay

Galera Point

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VISITORS TO T&T SOMETIMES SETTLE DOWN IN ONE ISLAND or the other, and eventually leave with impressions and memories of only half of this kaleidoscopic country.

Which is a shame. Partly because the two islands really are so different; and partly because a visit to T&T offers you two destinations for the price of one. Two different places, two different communities, different landscapes and seascapes, different personalities, different pleasures and experiences. Does it make sense to miss one of them completely?

And it is so easy to hop from one island to the other. Even a day trip, or a single overnight stay, can round out your experience of T&T with a whole extra dimension. Here’s how to do it.

By air: Caribbean Airlines operates several flights every day between Trinidad and Tobago. Flying time is 20 minutes between Piarco and Crown Point airports, and the cost is TT$300 (less than US$50) for a round trip. Book in advance on 625-7200, caribbean-airlines.com.

By sea: There is also a daily ferry service between Port of Spain and Scarborough, operated by the Port Authority (623-2901/5, patnt.com). The ferries — T&T Express and T&T Spirit — are modern, fast and comfortable.

The voyage takes about two and a half hours each way, and costs only TT$100 for a round trip (half price for children aged three to 11). During the day, you see a good deal of the coastline of north and northwest Trinidad, and the dramatic passage through the Bocas, the deep narrow channels between Trinidad’s northwest tip and its scattering of offshore islands. And the ferry terminals at both ends are conveniently next to downtown Port of Spain and Scarborough.

An older ferry, Warrior Spirit, makes a more leisurely trip, taking five hours or more each way for TT$75 round-trip, but you can book a cabin for TT$160. Again, children between three and 11 travel for half price.

NOW, DISCOVER THE OTHER

Please don’t leave without seeing both the islands.

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