dacron highlandermanualchapter3

8/10/2019 DACRON HighlanderManualChapter3

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1. FITTING WING TIP BRACES AND GUSSETS

STEP 1

Apply adhesive to the edges of the gusset, secure in place and apply a further fillet of adhesive alongthe drag tube and spar joints. See Figure 1.1 below.

F igur e 1.1

STEP 2

Fit, clean, bond and rivet two W-0100 tip brace tubes between the rear spar and the No 9 rib (one tothe top of the rib and one to the bottom) in the same way as the drag tubes were fitted. See figure 1.2.This material comes from left over side stringer material. Make sure that the tubes are cleaned /abraded. When riveting, tap the back of the riveting tool to ensure that the rivet is fully in and to helpsqueeze excess adhesive from the joint. This is also to ensure that the ends of the drag tubes fitintimately to the contour of the spar tube. Secure the brace to the spar tube with two CCP44 1/8 x Stainless rivets and to the rib with two SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivets.

F igur e 1.2

Immediately recheck all dimensions of wing tip rib before the adhesive sets.

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2. ALLOW ADHESIVE TO HARDENHaving rechecked your work, leave everything undisturbed for a minimum of 24 hrs. Do not attempt

to move the wing until pressure from a thumbnail leaves no mark on the surface of the adhesive.

3 LIFT STRUTSThe lift struts hold the wings in correct relationship to the fuselage and support the wings when lift

and other stresses are created in flight. The left strut (W-0120) rear tube upper end is fitted with anadjustable rod end to facilitate wing rigging. The right strut (W-0110) is not so equipped.

STEP 1

With a reamer, ream the front upper end t ube of the left lift strut W-0120. Assemble the rod endand lock nut (W-0130.0/1) onto the rear tube end. There is a witness hole drilled in the side of the rodend and the threaded end of the strut must always go past this hole. Should the rod end be backed offsuch that no threads can be seen through the witness hole then the condition is structurally unsafe andthe rod end must be screwed deeper onto the strut.

STEP 2

As in Step 1, ream the upper end tubes of the right lift strut W-0110. There is no rod end on thisstrut. You may also ream the lift strut brackets W-0140 at this time.

4 LIFT STRUT BRACKETSNote: All four lift strut brackets are W-0140. The brackets for the front spar (W-0140.0) have tie

down rings and are identical so that they will fit either left or right wings. The rear spar brackets (W-0140.1/2) are different and have a tab to retain the wings when they are folded. These tabs must pointtowards the trailing edge. These brackets were fit to your wings when the wings were set to thefuselage at the factory. There is a soft aluminum rivet set in the spar tubes. This must be carefully

drilled out so as not to enlarge the hole or disturb the I Beam thats inside the spar tube. STEP 1

Lay wings underside up.

STEP 2

Attach lift struts (W-0110 right and W-0120 left) to lift strut brackets W-0140 with AN4-16A bolts.

STEP 3

Measure 98 from the root ends of both spars and mark with a thin point felt marker.

STEP 4

Put the lift struts complete with brackets up to the underside of the wings and align the center tophole on the bracket to the hole where you removed the soft rivet. Put a cleco in to hold it in place andloosely clamp the strut brackets onto the spars at the 98 mark. The end of the strut bracket might foulthe drag tube; trim the end of the bracket as necessary. See Figure 4.1a .

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Figur e 4.1a F igur e 4.2b

STEP 5

Using a single 3 hose clamp to secure each bracket to its respective spar. ( See figure 4.2b ) Ensurethat the hose clamp driver mechanism does not touch the spar tube in such a way as to gouge it. Asmall shim under the driver should avoid any damage without affecting the clamping action.

STEP 6

Elevate the lift strut fuselage end about 3ft and ensure neither bracket moves when doing so.Recheck that the strut to bracket bolt centers remain at 98 from the root end of the spars. This set upgives 1.2 degrees of dihedral to the wing and it is therefore essential that it is accurately set.

STEP 7

Place a second hose clamp on the brackets and tighten securely. Recheck the bracket location oncemore and once you are satisfied each bracket is in the right place and secure then drilling for thefasteners can begin.

STEP 8

Start drilling on the center-line of the rear spar bracket with a (No 30) drill bit and place a Cleco in

every other hole. Now drill and Cleco the reminder of the holes working downwards from the centerwithout disturbing the hose clamps.

STEP 9

Drill and Cleco the front spar bracket up to the same stage as Step 8.

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STEP 10

With both brackets secured by Clecos, remove the hose clamps on both brackets and drill theremaining holes.

5. PREPARING AND BONDING LIFT STRUT BRACKETS

STEP 1

After drawing a line outside the boundary of the bracket with a medium point felt marker, removethe Clecos from both brackets and deburr all holes on both sides of the brackets and on the face of thespar tube.

STEP 2

Carefully scuff deeply the powder coating from the mating face of each bracket. A coarse emery flapwheel held in a drill is ideal or by hand with 100-grit emery cloth.

STEP 3

Abrade the surface of the spar with 100-grit emery cloth within the line marked at Step 1. Avoidscratching the spar tubes except where needed for bonding.

STEP 4

Clean the surface of the brackets and spars using acetone or MEK and paper towels.

STEP 5

Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive for both brackets and apply a generous coating to both the bracket andspar surface. (The epoxy serves 2 functions to give structural strength to the joint and also act as ananti-corrosion barrier between the dissimilar metals). Set the brackets in their correct position andsecure with rivets. All rivets are the CCP44 1/8 x Stainless, except where the rivets go through theI Beam. Look into the end of the spar and determine which two lines of rivets go into the I Beam. Hereyou would use the SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivets.

STEP 6

Rivet the entire bracket, (remember which has the long (I beam attach) and which are standardrivets), except do not rivet down the center-line rivets at either end of the bracket at this time - theseholes will be used later to attach fabric glue down plates. Work from the center-line outwards,alternating sides, and tapping the rivet setting tool to ensure that each and every rivet is properly seated

before it is set.

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STEP 7

Wipe off the excess adhesive from around the brackets with acetone or MEK.

6 INSTALLING WING JOINT DOUBLERSThe doublers, W-0210, are 4130 steel parts that fit inside each spar (one top and one bottom) and

enable the spars to react better to flight and ground loads. Fit the doublers with their wider parttowards the spar end (insert narrow end first); see Figure 6.1 and 6

Root rib will not be fi tted at this time

Dr awing 6.1

F igure 6.2

STEP 1Remove the wings from the fuselage.

STEP 2The doublers are pre-drilled; see Drawing 6.1 above . Ream out the large hole to 5/16 and the small

rivet holes to No.30 then deburr all holes.

STEP 3The spars require matching rivet holes to be drilled, the easiest way to achieve this is to place the

doubler on the outside of the spar with the wing bolt used to position the large hole, and then align therivet holes along the spar center line. Drill the last one, Clecos in place, then drill the other holes. Do

this for all 8 doubler positions. Deburr spar holes on completion. Although the doublers should all beidentical it is a good idea to number them, so that they can be fitted in the position where they wereused as the template.

STEP 4Scuff the powder coating from the convex side of the doubler and abrade the inside of the spar tube

with 100-grade emery cloth.

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STEP 5

Apply a generous coating of epoxy to both mating faces then use bolt and Clecos to hold doublers in place. Secure with CCP44 rivets ensure each rivet is properly seated before it is set. Clean up excessadhesive on bolt, Clecos, spar and doublers with acetone or MEK. See Figure 6.2 of finished spar end(the root rib will not have been fitted at this stage).

STEP 6When the wing is reassembled to the fuselage it will no longer fit. The doublers will have reduced the

inside dimension of the spar. Using a dial caliper, measure the inside dimension of each spar (i.e. between the doublers) and modify its corresponding head rack mounting bushing. Remove materialfrom the bottom of each mounting bushing until the overall length is 0.010 shorter than the insidedimension between the doublers. Finally, slightly round both front and rear edges of the mounting

bushing to correspond with the inner radius of the doublers.

Note : It is important to remove the excess material from the bottom of the tube only otherwise theangle of attack of the wing will be adversely affected.

7. JURY STRUT ATTACHMENT

STEP 1The jury strut spar attach brackets (4), W-0700, each require two mounting holes drilled (one on each

leg). Open out these holes to 1/8, ensuring a minimum edge distance. Ream the tab to take theAN3-4A bolt.

STEP 2With the wings bottom up, level the two spars.

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* Note-- A better way : Mark a line on the spar tubes at 53 from the root end. Use a long straight edgerubbed on the bottom of spars at these dimensions respectively and attach the brackets at a 90 angle.

Jury Strut

Rear Spar Front Spar

Di agram 7.1

STEP 5Remove brackets, deburr all holes and abrade the spar tube where marked with 100-grit emery cloth.

Scuff powder coat from mating surface of the bracket, and thoroughly clean as previously described.

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90 degrees Bottom of wing

Top of wing


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STEP 6Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating to the brackets. Finally, rivet the

brackets in place with CCP44 1/8 x Stainless rivets supplied and remove surplus adhesive fromaround joints. See Figures 7.2a/b.

F igur e 7.2a

F igur e 7.2b

8 FITTING WING TANK(S) The following procedure is used for both wing tanks. Remember that the outlets are on the opposite

side of the tanks. Remove just enough material from the front of the tank to see the scribe line on thetank. The tanks should not protrude above the rib caps. With the wing laying right side up, make a bedof silicone glue on the tank, where it touches the wing spars, and set them in place.

***NOTE*** The Wings must be on the plane

STEP 1Temporarily locate the root rib on the spar tubes and place the fuel tank between rib 2 and the root rib

(rib 1). Make sure the tank nestles closely with the webs of each rib. You will need to modify the rootrib slightly to allow the fuel outlet to pass through the rib; sufficient space should be allowed for the

fuel tubing to fit snugly on the outlet nipple and be tightened down with a hose clamp (F-106A). Markthe position of the root rib (note: please ensure that rib 1 is positioned in exactly the same position on

both wings.) on the spar tubes with a felt marker.

Remove the end rib and the tank. Abrade the root rib location areas on both spars, then thoroughlyclean with acetone or MEK to the standard previously described. Reassemble the tank and rib.

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Jury strut tab riveted on rear spar.

Bottom view of front jury strut bracketglued and riveted to the front spar.

Note: Lightweight filler has been usedto blend the bracket into the spar. Thisimproves looks but adds weight.


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In the center of each fuel tank cap, drill a 3/16 hole all the way through. Now disassemble the cap

and drill out the 3/16 hole to hole in the top part of the cap only. Do not go all the way through thetop with the hole. This is for the fuel tank breather tubes. Install the tubes and epoxy into place. The tubes should face thefront.

STEP 2***Do not proceed with the following step until the wings have been set onto to the fuselage***

Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and proceed to bond the root rib into position,See figure 8.1

Figure 8.1

STEP 3After the epoxy has set and cured, (24 hrs), further secure the tank by applying the silicon provided,

between the tank and the spar tubes. After 24 hours (at least), depending on temperature and humidity,it may take as many as three days for the silicone to cure completely.Use body filler to smooth out the transition between the ribs and the leading edge . See F igur e 8.2

Figure 8.2

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Step 4Use scrap wood and make small filler blocks to glue between tank and root rib in three places on the

bottom. See Figure 8.3. This keeps the covering from bowing in the rib when shrunk.

Figure 8.3

9. FITTING WING TRAILING EDGEThe wing trailing edges are pre-formed light alloy W-0295.

STEP 1Using a fine saw cut away the top and bottom rib cap strips in line with the rear face of the rib web.

Radius the cut edges so that they will conform to the inside radius of the metal trailing edge.

STEP 2Fit metal trailing edge and temporarily secure in position with masking tape. It will take 2 pieces of

material, but joint the 2 pieces onto the center of a rib and cut the ends square with the outside ribs 1 &9. Mark the position of each rib cap strip on the top front edge of the trailing edge i.e. 2 marks 1 apart,coinciding with the edges of the cap strip.

STEP 3Check that the rib cap ends fit snugly into the trailing edge and mark any that require further work.

STEP 4Adjust rib cap strips as required.

STEP 5Refit the trailing edge section and mark each rib cap strip back from the forward edge of the

trailing edge section on both top and bottom (Do not drill into the rib web) . Make sure that thetrailing edge fits tightly to the ribs . Drill 1/8 diamete r holes through the trailing edge and into the ribcap strip. Carefully countersink the holes in the trailing edge material and cleco in place.

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STEP 6Mark the inside face of the trailing edge section where the rib web and cap strips fit with a fine line

felt marker.

STEP 7Abrade the inside face of the trailing edge section marked in Step 7 with 100 grade emery cloth and

thoroughly clean to the same standard previously called for prior to epoxy bonding.

STEP 8Mix and apply a generous coating of epoxy adhesive to the rear face of the spar webs and where the

trailing edge section will overlap the rib cap strips. Secure the trailing edge section in position withmasking tape and rivet in place. Remove any extruded adhesive from the rear trailing edge face to ribweb joints at Ribs 1, 2, 4, 5, 7 & 9. Do not over-set the rivets. Stop when the metal section ispulled down and when you feel the tail of the rivet begin to expand. Finally, apply a fillet ofadhesive all round the joints except the where the rear face of the trailing edge joins the rib webs ofRibs 1, 2, 4, 5, 7 & 9, and dress to a neat radius as previously described. Rivet with #41010 1/8 x 1/4flush aluminum rivets.

STEP 9To enable water to leave the bays, make drain age hol es in th e tr ail ing edge in the inboard rear corner of

each bay. Refer to Appendix F for fuel tank gap fi ll er r ib and fi ll er stri p install ation.

10. FLAP AND AILERON HINGE BRACKETSHinge bearing brackets for the aileron are attached to Ribs 5, 7 & 9 and those for the flap are fitted to

Ribs 1, 2 & 4. The brackets are fitted in pairs on either side of the rib material (i.e. apart). Toachieve this, the trailing edge has to be slotted both sides of the affected rib.

STEP 1

Locate ribs 1, 2,4,5,7, & 9. Place a mark on the trailing edge at these rib locations on both sides of therib. These marks are the inside lines of the slot thats needed for the hi nge attach brackets.

See Figure 10.1A and 10.1B

F IGURE 10.1 A F IGURE 10.1B

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S TEP 2Chain drill the slot with a 3/32 drill. J oin the holes using a small round file and finally file to the

marked lines, or use a Dremel type drill with slot cutting attachment . Be careful: do not attack therib material. It is essential that the inside face of each slot aligns with the rib web face otherwise thehinge brackets will not fit snugly to the webs and difficulty will be experienced when fitting the

aileron and flap.See figure 10.2

Figur e 10.2

11. AILERON TRAILING EDGE

The trailing edges W-0320.0 are pre-formed light alloy.

STEP 1 Refer to Drawing 11.1 .The ribs are made to fit inside the trailing edge W-0320 and should not require any additional

preparation. When fitted into the trailing edge the distance from the rear face of the spar tube to thetrailing edge should be 8 (this is also 9 from the spar center). This measurement has to be setcorrectly because the hinges are measured from the trailing edge.

STEP 2The alloy trailing edge will have to be cut to the correct length. Fit and securely tape the trailing edge

to the ribs, ensuring the ends of the ribs are nested with the inside radius of the trailing edge. Mark the position of each rib cap strip on the top and bottom front edges of the trailing edge with a fine line feltmarker, i.e. 2 marks at each point spaced by the width of the cap strip. Also, mark where the trailingedge front edge crosses the cap strip top and bottom (so you know where to apply epoxy glue).

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STEP 3Remove trailing edge and abrade the inside face at each rib position with 100-grit emery cloth and

thoroughly clean as previously described.

STEP 4Replace trailing edge onto ribs and clamp in place making sure that trailing edge is at right angles to

all ribs then center punch and drill a No 40 ( 3/32 ") hole, back from the trailing edge leading edgeand midway between the rib center line and right hand outer edge of the cap strip. Turn aileron overand repeat, locating the rivet hole on the opposite side of the rib web. Countersink all holes in trailingedge material.

STEP 5Remove trailing edge, mix and apply a generous coating of epoxy adhesive to each rib tail. Re-fit the

trailing edge and secure in position with masking tape.Ensure all joints are well coated with adhesive adding further fillets where necessary.Ensure measurements are still correct then fit countersink rivets11826-00029 3/32 x 1/8 flushaluminum. Pull carefully so as not to split the wood of the ribs.

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Refer to page 65

Drawing 11.1

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9

9 10

Aileron and Flap Rib

Aileron Hinge pivot point

Flap Hinge pivot point


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12 FLAP TRAILING EDGEThe trailing edges are pre-formed light alloy.

STEP 1 Refer to Drawing 11.1 .The ribs are made to fit inside the trailing edge W-0440 and should not require any additional

preparation. When fitted into the trailing edge the distance from the rear face of the spar tube to the

trailing edge should be 8 (this is also 9 from the spar center).

STEP 2The alloy trailing edge will have to be cut to the correct length.

Fit and securely tape the trailing edge to the ribs, ensuring the ends of the ribs are nested with theinside radius of the trailing edge. Mark the position of each rib cap strip on the top and bottom frontedges of the trailing edge with a fine line felt marker, i.e. 2 marks at each point spaced by the width ofthe cap strip. Also, mark where the trailing edge front edge crosses the cap strip top and bottom (soyou know where to apply epoxy glue).

STEP 3Abrade the inside face of the trailing edge at each rib position with 100 grit emery cloth and

thoroughly clean as previously described.

STEP 4Replace trailing edge onto ribs and clamp in place making sure that trailing edge is at right angles to

all ribs then center punch and drill a No 40 ( 3/32 ) hole, back from the trailing edge leading edgeand midway between the rib center line and right hand outer edge of the cap strip. Turn the aileronover and repeat, locating the rivet hole on the opposite side of the rib web. Countersink all holes intrailing edge material.

STEP 5Remove trailing edge, mix and apply a generous coating of epoxy adhesive to each rib tail. Re-fit thetrailing edge and secure in position with masking tape. Ensure all joints are well coated with adhesiveadding further fillets where necessary. Fit countersink rivets, W-0330; pull carefully so as not to splitthe wood of the ribs.

13 AILERON HINGESSTEP 1Identify the 2 aileron bell cranks W-0340 (left) and W-0350 (right) together with the 4 hinges, W-

0360, and bronze bushings, W-0370. With each component secured in a vice, ream the bushinghousings with a 5/16 reamer. The bronze bushings should be an easy push fit. *Note: Do not drill ends of control arm (bell crank) to 5/16.*

STEP 2Completely remove the powder coating from the mating faces of all 6 components. Mark out, center

punch and drill 1/16 pilot holes in the center and at each corner of the W -0360.0 hinges, ensuring thatthere is a minimum edge distance of for the corn er holes. Do the same for the bell cranks (2 x 5holes). Open holes out to 1/8 (#30).

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Step 3Clamp a furring strip to the top side of the wing in four places. Turn the wing over and lay flap and

aileron in their respective place, see figure 13.1. Clamp a spacer between Aileron and flap, see figure13.2. Measure the amount of flap and aileron extending beyond wing tip and root and center. Now equal distances are hanging over. Mark center line at ribs 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, & 9 onto Aileron & Flapspar tube. This mark is where the hinge & bell crank arm are located.

Figure 13.1 Figure 13.2

14. FLAP HINGESSTEP 1Identify the 2 flap bell cranks, W-0450, together with the 4 hinges, W-0460, and bronze bushings, W-

0470. With each component secured in a vice, ream the bush housings with a 5/16 reamer. The bronze bushings should be an easy push fit. **Note: Do not drill ends of bell crank to 5/16**

STEP 2Scuff the powder coating from the mating faces of all 6 components. Mark out, center punch and

drill 1/16 pilot holes in the cente r and at each corner of the W-0460 hinges, ensuring that there is aminimum edge distance of for the corner holes. Do the same for the bell cranks (2 x5 holes). Openholes out to 1/8 (No 30).

15. INSTALLATION OF AILERON HINGES AND BELLCRANKThe hinges will be fitted to the aileron spar to align with the center lines of rib 5 and 9. The bell

crank will similarly be fitted to align with rib 7s center line. All fittings are attached such that thehinge bushing is on the underside of the aileron/flap.

STEP 1 ** THIS STEP IS ESSENTIAL **

As a cross check, put the aileron up to the wing and ensure that each mark aligns exactly with thecenter of the respective rib web. Make minor adjustments as necessary.

STEP 2Temporarily attach the outer hinges, W-0360, to the aileron spar with hose clamps ensuring that the

fore and aft center line of the hinge bushing coincides with the marks made at 15 Step 1 (s ee Figure15.1) and that the center of the bushing itself is 9 from the rea r edge of the trailing edge. See

Drawing 11.1 and figure 15.2 63


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F igur e 15.1

STEP 3Temporarily attach the bell crank (W-0340.0 left aileron/W-0350.0 right aileron) following the

instructions at Step 3, to align with the center line of rib 7. See figure 15.2

F igur e 15.2

STEP 4Recheck that all 3 hinges are correctly and accurately set. Mark the perimeter of each fitting with a

fine line felt marker (s ee Figure 15.1).

STEP 5Using the holes previously drilled in the hinges and bell crank, drill the spar i.e. all holes not covered

by the hose clamps. Fit Clecos. Remove the hose clamps and drill the remaining holes to the same procedure.

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STEP 6Remove hinges and bell crank, deburr all holes and abrade the spar tube where marked with 100 grit

emery cloth. Thoroughly clean all mating faces as previously described.

STEP 7Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating to each mating face. Finally, rivet

fittings in place with rivets supplied, CCP44, and remove surplus adhesive from around joints. See figures 15.3 and15.4.

F igur e 15.3 F igur e 15.4

16 FLAP HINGE AND BELLCRANKThe hinges will be fitted to the flap spar to align with the center line of wing rib 1 and 4. The bell

crank will similarly be fitted to align with rib 2 center line. All fittings are attached such that the hinge bushing is on the underside of the flap.

STEP 1With the aileron positioned, put the flap spar tube up to the wing with a packing between it and

the aileron. Make a mark on the other end of the spar tube in line with the inboard face of the root rib

cap strip. At the same time, mark the spar tube with the center line of rib 1, 2 and 4 and webs. This iswhere the hinge center lines will be located.

STEP 2Locate the bell crank, W-0450, and hinge, W 0460, and temporarily attach to the spar tube using

hose clamps. Align the center line of each hinge and bell crank with the marked lines the bell crank isaligned with the rib 2 mark and the plain hinge with the ribs 1 and 4 mark. Refer to Drawing 11.1on

page 6, and position the center of the bushing 10 from the rear edge of the trailing edge. Rememberthe pivot points are on the underside of the flap.

STEP 3Recheck that both hinge and bell crank are correctly set by putting the flap up to the wing. Mark the

perimeter of each fitting with a fine line felt marker.

STEP 4Using the holes previously drilled in the hinge and bell crank - i.e. all holes not covered by the hose

clamps - drill the spar. Fit Clecos. Remove the hose clamps and drill the remaining holes to the same procedure.

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STEP 5Remove hinges and bell crank. Deburr all holes and abrade the spar tube where marked with 100 grit

emery cloth. Thoroughly clean all mating faces as previously described.

STEP 6Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating to each mating face. Finally, rivet

fittings in place with rivets, CCP-44, supplied and remove surplus adhesive from around joints.

17. INSTALLATION OF AILERON LEADING EDGE

STEP 1Leading edge material is of preformed fiberglass, W-0390. Each length provides one aileron or one

flap leading edge. From a piece, first square off one end and then cut to length, again squaring off andfinishing to the Rib Ends. Cutting thin fiberglass is best done with a very fine blade metalworking saw,and dressing to marked lines is best done using medium grade abrasive paper bonded to a suitablewood block or purpose made sanding block. You may want to leave the trimming to length until after ithas been fitted, use the cap strip outer edge as a guide.

STEP 2Fit the W-0390 leading edge onto the aileron and secure with masking tape. The leading edge should butt up to the rib cap strips. Remove a minimum of material to clear the hinges and bell crank. Markwhere any excess will need to be trimmed off and use a straight edge to draw a trim line on the upperand lower surfaces. You can see the cap strips through the fiberglass which you use as a guide.Remove the leading edge and cut off the waste. This can best be done with sharp metal shears asshown in figure 17.1 and the cut edge finally dressed as described in 8.4 Step 1, see figure 17.2.

STEP 3Refit the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Mark the inside and outside position of each rib

web, top and bottom, with a fine line felt marker.

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F igur e 17.1

F igur e 17.2 STEP 4For the false ribs (W- 0400) mark the following positions as centers for false ribs, 1 from inboard

edge, 1 1/8 from the outboard edge and 5/16 either side of the bell crank center line (i.e. leaving a 5/8gap) and center two ribs in the other bays.

STEP 5Lightly abrade the inside of the leading edge at all the main and false rib locations using 240 grade

emery cloth and thoroughly clean as previously described.

STEP 6Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating all round the nose of each false rib and

locate them at the correct positions inside the leading edge. Make sure that they are perpendicular andsquare and secure with masking tape. If necessary build up a small fillet either side of each false rib,

but remove any extruding adhesive from around the inside faces of the ribs where the hinges arelocated. See figure 17.3

STEP 7Apply a generous coating of epoxy to the noses of the main ribs, noting the guidance at 17.4, Step 6.

Fit the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Ensure that the false ribs are epoxy bonded to thespar and check squareness and tape in place. Set aside to cure. See figure 17.3

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F igur e 17.3STEP 8When dry use a sanding block to reduce the height of the front edge of the upper and lower rib cap

strips to provide a smooth transition from the fiberglass leading edge. Remove wood not fiberglass! Apply a little lightweight filler as necessary to help the transitions.

STEP 9Remove the fiberglass leading edge material between the rib noses at each of the 3 hinge points and

dress back to the inside faces of the ribs. See figure 17.4 These cuts extend from the bottom trailingedge of the leading edge to from the trailing edge of the leading edge top surface.

Figure 17.4

18 INSTALLATION OF FLAP LEADING EDGE

STEP 1Leading edge material is made of preformed fiberglass, W-0390. Each length provides one aileron or

one flap leading edge. Cutting thin fiberglass is best done with a very fine blade metalworking saw, anddressing to marked lines is best done using medium grade abrasive paper bonded to a suitable wood

block or purpose made sanding block. Start by squaring off one end. You may want to leave thetrimming to length until after it has been fitted, (as there may be variation in length) use the cap stripouter edge as a guide.

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STEP 2 Fit the W-0390 leading edge onto the aileron and secure with masking tape. The leading edge should

butt up to the rib cap strips. Remove a minimum of material to clear the hinge and bell crank. Markwhere any excess will need to be trimmed off and use a straight edge to draw a trim line on the upperand lower surfaces, you can see the cap strips through the fiberglass which you use as a guide. Removethe leading edge and cut off the waste. This can best be done with sharp metal shears as shown in

figure 17.1 and the cut edge finally dressed as described in 8.4, Step 1,see figure 17.2

STEP 3Refit the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Mark the inside and outside position of each rib

web, top and bottom, with a fine line felt marker.

STEP 4False ribs (w-0400) provide support for the leading edge when the covering material is shrunk over

it. This support is especially necessary where openings for the hinges and bellcranks are made.Mark locations as centers for false ribs in each flap, starting at the inboard end:

At the inboard hinge, mark 5/16 outboard of the hinge centerline, and space two more marksevenly in the remaining part of that bay.

Space two marks evenly in the next bay. Mark 5/16 either side of the bell crank centerline, and center one more mark in the remaining

part of that bay. Space two marks evenly in the next bay. Mark 5/16 either side of the outboard hinge centerline, and center one mark on each side in the

space remaining between those original marks and the adjacent ribs.

STEP 5Lightly abrade the inside of the leading edge at all the main and false rib locations using 240 grade

emery cloth and thoroughly clean as previously described.

STEP 6Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating all round the nose of each false rib andlocate them at the correct positions inside the leading edge. Make sure that they are perpendicular andsquare and secure with masking tape. If necessary build up a small fillet either side of each false rib,

but remove any extruding adhesive from around the inside faces of the ribs where the hinge and bellcrank are located.

STEP 7Apply a generous coating of epoxy to the noses of the main ribs, noting the guidance at Step 6. Fit

the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Ensure that the false ribs are epoxy bonded to the spar

and check squareness and tape in place. Set aside to cure.

STEP 8When dry use a sanding block to reduce the height of the front edge of the upper and lower rib cap

strips to provide a smooth transition from the fiberglass leading edge. Remove wood not fiberglass!Apply a little lightweight filler as necessary to help the transitions.

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STEP 9Remove the fiberglass leading edge material between the rib noses at the hinge and bell crank points

and dress back to the inside faces of the ribs. These cuts extend from the bottom trailing edge of theleading edge t o from the trailing edge of the leading edge top surface. See figure 18.1 and 18.2

Figure 18.1 figure 18.2

19 FITTING AILERON TO WINGSTEP 1Fit the bronze bushings, W-0370, into the 6 pivot points of the ailerons. Lightly press them into

place. On final assembly the hinge bracket will pinch the bearing, so that the hinge and bell crank willrotate on the bearing, not the bearing rotating on the bolt.

STEP 2Identify the W-0480 hinge brackets and assemble at ribs 5, 7, and 9. One pilot drilled and one not

drilled. Number each plate of each pair e.g. 1a/b, 2a/b etc, so they stay in their pairs.Pass both hinges through slots in trailing edge and clamp ( 1 hinge drilled, 1 hinge not drilled ).Usedeep clamps to clear rib web, when alignment is satisfied drill plates using drill plate as a guide. Mark

both plates as a pair.Ream out the bolt holes to 3/16. Assemble one pair to eac h of the flap hinges using this method;Place an AN960-10 washer onto an AN3-6A bolt, put this through the flap hinge, place anotherAN960-10 washer on the bolt and secure with an AN365-1032 nut (upon final installation of thisassembly tighten these nuts securely).

STEP 3Put the aileron up to the wing and carefully pass the hinge brackets through the slots cut in the wing

trailing edge. Temporarily clamp the W-0410 hinge brackets to the rib webs.

STEP 4

Cut small scraps of 1/8 ply and ins ert them between the nose of the aileron and the wing trailingedge section. Attach to the aileron with masking tape to aid further adjustments.

Step 5To set the proper gap and alignment of aileron and flaps, turn wing bottom side up. Install straight

edge, (metal, wood, etc.) on top of the wing rib just extending far enough to get into rib contour. Thisaligns the top of the air foil with the ribs.

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A slight difference at wing tips is normal (wash out). The length of the aileron and flap should matchwhen in the neutral position at the trailing edge.

*Clamp at these points to make control surface flush with top of wing, wing should be upside down.

STEP 6Further adjust the aileron until it aligns correctly with the wing and the 1/8 packing is snug in the

gap. Clamp the hinge brackets securely. When the aileron articulates 30 degrees up and 30 degreesdown you are ready to drill and rivet the hinge brackets.

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Square straightedge, metal, wood,etc.


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To get an accurate and pleasing alignment, it is better to align the flap and aileron at the sametime

Step 7Carefully drill the rib webs for the hinge brackets. To start, drill one corner hole just into the web,

rotate the other plate to one side and continue the drilling right through the web.

Use a Cleco to hold the 2 plates together on either side of the drilled hole re-align the 2 plates holesand re-clamp. With the plates now aligned proceed to drill the remaining 3 holes.

STEP 8Remove the hinge brackets in pairs, abrade mating faces with 240 grit emery cloth and clean as

previously described. Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive, apply a generous coat to the mating faces,relocate and re-secure. Finally, rivet with SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivets.

20 FITTING FLAP TO WING STEP 1Fit the bronze bushings, W-0470, into the 3 pivot points each flap. Lightly press them into place. On

final assembly the hinge bracket will pinch the bearing, so that the hinge and bell crank will rotate onthe bearing, not the bearing rotating on the bolt.

STEP 2Identify the W-0480 hinge brackets and assemble at ribs 1, 2, and 4. One pilot drilled and one not

drilled. Number each plate of each pair e.g. 1a/b, 2a/b etc, so they stay in their pairs.Pass both hinges through slots in trailing edge and clamp ( 1 hinge drilled, 1 hinge not drilled ).Usedeep clamps to clear rib web, when alignment is satisfied drill plates using drill plate as a guide. Markboth plates as a pair.

Ream out the bolt holes to 3/16. Assemble one pair to each of the flap hinges usin g this method;Place an AN960-10 washer onto an AN3-6A bolt, put this through the flap hinge, place anotherAN960-10 washer on the bolt and secure with an AN365-1032 nut (upon final installation of thisassembly tighten these nuts securely).

STEP 3Put the flap up to the wing and carefully pass the hinges through the slots cut in the wing trailing

edge. Temporarily clamp the W-0480 brackets to the rib webs.

STEP 4Cut small scraps of 1/8 ply and insert them between the nose of the flap an d the wing trailing edge

section. Attach to the flap with masking tape to aid further adjustments.

STEP 5Further adjust the flap until it aligns correctly with the wing and the 1/8 packing is snug in the gap.

Clamp the hinge brackets securely. When the flap articulates 40 degrees down you are ready to drilland rivet the hinge brackets.

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To get an accurate and pleasing alignment, it is better to align the flap and aileron at the same time.

STEP 6Use a Cleco to hold the 2 plates together on either side of the drilled hole re-align the 2 plate holes

and re-clamp. With the plate now aligned proceed to drill the remaining 3 holes.

STEP 7Remove the hinge brackets in pairs, abrade mating faces with 240 grit emery cloth and clean as

previously described. Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive; apply a generous coat to the mating faces, re-locate and re-secure. Finally, rivet with the 1/8 x S.S. rivets supplied.

STEP 8 Notice the flap bell crank has only one horn, not two like the aileron. The up-travel of the flap is

facilitated by a return spring. This spring, W-0680, attaches to the flap return tab, W-0695.0 and the W-0690 attach tab that is held in place by the flap pulley bolt. See figure 20.1

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Figur e 20.1

The bracket, W-0695.0, is mounted on the flap spar turned up until it touches the top of the fiberglassleading edge then its epoxy bonded and riveted in place with rivets, CCP-44. The other end of thespring will hook onto the flap return tab, W-0690, which is mounted under the head of the flap pulleymounting bolt, AN4-10.

*Note: Wing is upside down in pictures*

Measure from top of the trailing edge and make a horizontal ma rk at 7/8 and another at 2 1/8. Make

a vertical mark in line with the center of the flap pulley bolt. Drill a 1/8 hole at the two intersections,and then open those holes up to . After those holes are made, connect the two circles to form an ovalslot for the flap return spring. Remember, the wing is upside down in the pictures.

74

Flap Return Springattach bracketW0695.0 Flap Bellcrank

Flap return spring W-0680

W-0690 pulleyattach bracket


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21 PREPARING AILERON FOR COVERINGSTEP 1

Drill 1/8 holes for the fabric rivets with 3 spacing starting at 1 from the trailing edge. These rivetholes should be as close to the main rib as you can get them without going into the rib.

Step 2

Fabric backing plates should be placed on each hinge and bell crank on the bottom side only. Theseare made from materials supplied according to templates provided in the template section of themanual.

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Step 3As for other structures, lightweight body filler (bondo, not supplied in kit) is used over and to hide

the rivets and provide smooth transitions between surfaces, but beware that this adds weight and youwill be surprised how easily your airplane gains pounds.

Step 4

When all irregularities have been removed all surfaces of the spars and ribs should be covered withtwo or three coats of two-part polyurethane varnish, making sure that NO varnish gets on to anysurface that is going to need gluing for fabric.

22 PREPARING FLAP FOR COVERING

STEP 1

Drill 1/8 holes for the fabric rivets with 3 spacing starting at 1 from the trailing edge. These rivetholes should be as close to the main rib as you can get them without going into the rib.

As for other structures, lightweight body filler is used to hide the rivets and provide smoothtransitions between surfaces.

STEP 2

Fabric backing plates should be placed on each hinge and bell crank on the bottom side only. Theseare made from materials supplied according to templates provided in the template section of themanual.

Step 3

As for other structures, lightweight body filler is used to hide the rivets and provide smoothtransitions between surfaces.

Step 4

When all irregularities have been removed all surfaces of the spars and ribs should be covered withtwo or three coats of two-part polyurethane varnish, making sure that NO varnish gets on to anysurface that is going to need gluing for fabric.

23. MOUNTING THE AILERON PULLEYS

The ailerons are operated by cables, which run over a system of pulleys.

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The up-aileron cable runs from the top aileron bell crank over a pulley - turning the cable parallel tothe center line of the rear wing spar - through ribs 1-6 to a pulley on the head rack in the fuselage.

Next, it travels down through a fairlead to a pulley at the rear of the seat frame (near the wing lift strutattachment point) and then via a pulley on the front of the seat frame to the base of the control stick.The two control sticks are linked in the middle; the aileron cables are connected to the right stick forright aileron and left stick for left aileron.

The down-aileron cable runs from the bottom aileron bell crank over a pulley - turning the cable parallel to the center line of the rear spar - through ribs 1-6 on to the center of the fuselage, where bothleft and right down-aileron cables join on the fuselage center line at an adjustable turnbuckle.

The W-0500 pulley blocks are the same for both flap and ailerons.

The following procedure applies to both wings.

STEP 1Temporarily mount the aileron and use your positioning templates (see Chapter 8.5, Step 5) to setthem to the neutral position; this will help with alignment.

STEP 2Mark out and center punch the 4 mounting holes (one in each corner) in the sole plate of the pulley

blocks, ensuring a minimum edge distance. Drill the holes 1/8 (No 30) diameter. Also ream forthe AN4-10A bolts that will be used to hold the pulley in the block.

STEP 3Temporarily fit the W-0530 pulley into the arms of the pulley block.

STEP 4The aileron pulley blocks are positioned one above the other on the rear spar tube near to the inboard

face of rib 7. The sole plate should be approximately from the rib web. The pulley edge should beas close as possible to the rib web, so that the rib web acts as a cable keeper (but not so close that the

pulley is jammed), and in line with the aileron cable attachment horn (use a long drill bit in the grooveof the pulley to align it to the horn). The top pulley will be a pproximately below the rib cap strip;the edge of the bottom pulley will be approx. 9/16 below the trailing edge. Clamp the pulley blocks to

the spar tube, ensuring that the pulleys align to the spar axis. You will need to remove material fromthe cap strips to achieve line up and clearance. See Figures 23.1.4a, b, c and d.

In the ailerons neutral position, the eye of the horn should be - as close as possible - in line with the pulley groove.

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F igur e 1

F igure 23.1.b

F igur e 23.1.A

F igure 23.1.C F igure 23.1.DExample of dril l bit being used for alignment

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Top aileron pulley block Note cutout in capstrip andtrailing edge.


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STEP 5Recheck position of pulley block then drill mounting holes 1/8 (No. 30) diameter into spar. Use

Clecos to hold block in position while drilling.

STEP 6Deburr, remove the powder coating from the mounting face of bracket, and abrade the spar with 100-

grade emery cloth and clean mounting faces as previously directed .

STEP 7Secure pulley block to spar with epoxy adhesive and CCP-44 rivets.

STEP 8All pulleys have a W-0520 cable keeper, which is positioned so as to keep the cable in the pulley

groove when the cable is relaxed. Mount the W-0530 pulley into the pulley block with AN4-10A bolts,AN960-416 washers, AN365-428 nuts. The cable keeper is normally under the head of the bolt. Forease of access later, the bolt in the top pulley should be installed upside down. This is to facilitatefuture removal after the wing has been covered. If necessary trim the rib capstrip away further, justenough to allow the pulley to be fitted . See figure 23.2b

Trim away some of the top trailing edge in order to get a straight run of cable from the top pulley tothe top aileron cable attachment horn when aileron is in the down position. See figure 23.2a

Figure 23.2a Figure 23.2b

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24. MOUNTING THE FLAP PULLEYS

STEP 1Temporarily mount the flap. Use templates (see Chapter 8.5, Step 5) to set to neutral position. This

will help with alignment.

STEP 2The flap cable pulley brackets, W-0500, are mounted on the rear spar tube next to the inner face of

the rib 2 web. The spacing from the web and the alignment with the flap horn, together with the fitting procedure, are as described for the aileron pulley brackets in Chapter 10.1 steps 1-7, except that the bottom of the pulley will be approx 7/8 from the bottom of the trailing edge and the cable should be inthe middle of the pulley when the flap is approximately at the 20 degrees down angle (i.e. theoperational midpoint). See Figures 24.1a and b.

F IGURE 24.1A F IGURE 24.1B

STEP 3

All pulleys have a W-0520 cable keeper, which is positioned so as to keep the cable in the pulleygroove when the cable is relaxed.

Mount the W-0610 pulley into the pulley block with AN4-10A bolts. The cable keeper is normallyunder the head of the bolt. For ease of access later the nuts should be on the bottom, Further trim away(if necessary) the rib cap strip just enough to allow the pulley to be fitted.

Note: Remember that this pulley bolt also has the flap return spring attach bracket W-0690 on it.

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25. AILERON AND FLAP CONTROL STOPS

Limiting the movement of the stick from side to side by the geometry of the control stick towers provides aileron primary control stop.

Flap control stop is only required for the up position and this is controlled by cable tension.

26 BUTT RIBS AND WINDSHIELD BRACKETS

The butt ribs W-0280.0/1 are positioned when the wings are in place (be prepared to open and closethe wings a few times to get the positioning correct) as follows:

STEP 1 The fixing lugs W-0290 (T pieces attached to the butt rib) are housed in tubular bushings on the

airframe and can have their length adjusted to position the butt rib as close as possible to the wing rootrib (a small 1/16 gap is all that is required). The butt rib should be positioned so that it accuratelyaligns with the wing root rib over its whole profile. Hold the butt rib to the fixing lugs with clamps,remove from airframe and drill and secure the lug to the butt rib with SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainlessrivets. * Refit to airframe and secure the lugs in the tubular bushings with CCP42 1/8 x 1/4 Stainless1/8 x rivets. See figure 26.1. Butt ribs: mark out end ribs for control cables. Slide root ribs on tofront and rear spars. Install wing joint doublers. Fit wing to fuselage head rack tubes.

* Note: Remove burs from top of head rack tubes and level front to back and side to side.

With spar pins in, fit gas tanks to spars. Slide the tank against rib #2 and slide rib #1 snug against gastank. Leave just enough room so that the gas tank can be removed. Mark rib locations and remove thetanks. Trim and tape butt rib to end rib #1. Align end ribs #1 to the previous marks. Fit and clamp the T

pins to the butt ribs. Epoxy and rivet T pins to butt ribs and fuselage all at the same time. Replace thegas tank so that you can ensure a good fit. *Note: The tanks will be permanently installed later.

F igur e 26.1

*This job should be after wing tank installation

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OptionallyFabric acrossthis gap


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STEP 2

Once the butt ribs are fixed in place you can then (optionally) use fabric to seal the gap between the butt rib (bottom surface) and the head rack tube. Normal fabric procedure is employed. See figure 26.1

STEP 3The F-2200 rear windshield bracket is positioned centrally on the rear head rack tube and locates to

the 6 tabs. Open up the holes in the tabs to 1/8. Fix in place by marking through the tabs into the bracket and drilling holes for the AD44ABSLF 1/8 x Large Head Aluminum rivets, see Figure 26.2.Top of bracket faces aft. When installed, the F-2220 Lexan windshield assembly will be riveted to this

bracket. Before final assembly the bracket(s) should be painted, clean and prime with aluminum primer before final painting.

Figure26.2

27 INSTALLING THE PITOT TUBEThe air speed indicator is activated by the air pressure differential between the slipstream of air

entering the pitot tube and the static pressure. The pitot W-0740 probe is mounted in the undisturbedflow of air on rib five 8 1/2 back from the leading edge. See Figure 27.1

Figure 27.1

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STEP 1Position pitot tube and secure it to rib 5 with safety wire (not too tight or you will restrict the air

flow). The tube should extend about 5 down into the airflow with the lower end parallel to the rib and pointing forward, s ee Figure 28.1 . Use epoxy to secure the wire and tube to the rib.

STEP 2

Fit the tubing (W-0770) to the end of the tube using the connector provided (W-0760).

STEP 3The method for routing the pitot tube is to drill & ream a hole at a 45 degree angle into the re ar

spar and run the tube inside spar tube. It is recommended that the hole be put into the epoxy joint at rib2.

F igur e 27.2

STEP 4Although not provided, it is good practice to install an inspection panel (available from your aircraft

supply store) next to the pitot tube to make internal inspection and replacement easier.

STEP 5During final assembly, the tube will exit the spar tube in front of the connecting bolt and pass along

the butt rib on the head rack, down the windscreen side bracket and into the space behind theinstrument panel where it is connected to the instruments. To make wing dis-assembly easier, aconnector (F-0760) is provided to enable you to put a joint in the tube where it exits the wing.

28 FABRIC PLATESFull size templates are given at Appendix A. All fabric plates are made from .040 aluminum sheet

and are held in position by 11826-00029 3/32 x 1/8 flush aluminum rivets that will be countersunk.The exceptions are the two outside holes that were left open over the lift strut attach brackets, use

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SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivet. See Figures 28.1a, b, c and d.

The following fabric glue-down plates are required:Around the front lift strut brackets (2, mirror image)Around the rear lift strut brackets (2, mirror image)Around the aileron cable upper wing exit points to bell crank (2, mirror image)Around the aileron cable lower wing exit points to bell crank (2, mirror image)

Around the flap pulley in wing (2, mirror image).

Cover plates are needed for the aileron under wing glue down plates (2, mirror image)A cover plate is required for the flap pulleys (2, mirror image).

Figure 28.1A Figure 28.1BViews of the fabric plates used on this strut bracket. Install two rivets and they will hold the platein position. Light weight filler has been used to cover / blend the rivets.

Figure 28.1C

Bottom and top Aileron fabric plates.*Note* they are riveted to the trailing edge. Figure 28.1D

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29. GETTING THE WINGS READY FOR COVERING

If you have not previously done so, now is the time to fix the false ribs to your wings.

STEP 1Two false ribs are positioned (equally spaced) in each main rib bay. Mark these positions on the front

spar and stringer and clean ready for epoxy bonding.

STEP 2False ribs are positioned so that the leading edge sits on the front spar, in line with the main rib

leading edge line, and the rear sits on the stringer.

STEP 3To stop wear of the fabric where it lays over the false ribs, it is advisable to cover the top surface of

the false ribs with reinforcing or surgical tape. See Figure 29.1

F igur e 29.1

STEP 4The wing needs to be prepared for covering by being smooth to the touch. Run your hand over the

wing: if you can feel an irregularity, you will see the irregularity when the plane is covered and painted.Use a good lightweight body filler to smooth out the irregularities and fill any staple holes etc. Use the

body filler to make smooth transitions e.g. ribs onto front spar, trailing edge onto ribs and around rivetheads etc. See Figures 29.2a h.

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F igur e 29.2E; Photo of fi ni shed jun ction F igur e 29.2F: F in ished Trail in g EdgeOf r ib and spar

86

F igur e 29.2b : Use filler to finish areaswere the rib meets sparF igur e 29.2a : filler applied to trailing edge

before sanding.

F igur e 29.2d : Another view showingsanding block

F igur e 29.2c : Sanding the filler. Note: Be verycareful when sanding around spars. Do not sandwith sand paper over 360-grit and do not removeany metal from spars with the sanding.


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STEP 5

Once it is covered you will not be able to get inside the wing, so make sure that all internalcomponents are properly protected.

When all irregularities have been removed all surfaces of the spars, aluminum drag tube and ribsthese should be covered with two or three coats of two-part polyurethane varnish.

Note: Before you apply the varnish, carefully mask up the areas that will have fabric attachedby glue - these areas must NOT have any varnish on them. This refers to all cap strips, trailingedges and the leading edge of front spar.

30 WING TIPSThe wing kit is supplied with Horner style wing tips W -0810.

If optional strobes are to be used, now is the time to position and trial fit the W-0810.1 strobe lightmount onto the wing tip. Once a suitable fit is obtained, mark position with a sharpie. Using coursesand paper scuff the area you marked and inside of the strobe light mount. Epoxy the strobe lightmount onto the wing tip. (Make sure you get a good solid bond on the epoxy)

STEP 1First decide whether you want to be able to remove the tips or whether they are going to become an

integral part of the wing, the main difference being that for permanent fixture the tip is fitted beforecovering and the fabric extends to include the tips. Having removable tips necessitates the insertion ofan epoxy bead along the cap strip/rib web junction of rib 9; this is to give additional material for self-tapping screws/rivets to grip into. For the removable method it is a good idea to pre-fit the tip. AlsoK1000 nut plates can be installed on inboard side of rib 9 to facilitate screws for removable tips. See

figure 30.1

87

F igur e 29.2g : Bottom view of front strut attach bracket withfabric reinforcement plate installed. Note: filler was usedover the strut bracket to hide the rivets. This looks verygood, but everything you do in this way adds weight and youwill be surprised how easily your airplane gains pounds

F igur e 29.2h : Finished trailingedge.


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Figure 30.1

STEP 2Trim to scribe line.

STEP 3Overlap wing tip onto end rib spar cap; use clamps to hold in place.

STEP 4Fit aileron to aid alignment.

STEP 5Line up the trailing edge of the wing tip with the trailing edge of the aileron in neutral position (use

the alignment template). Some cutting to length will be required, but be careful: you must have thetrailing edge of the tip at the same level as the aileron in neutral.

STEP 6

Notch out the wing tip to allow for aileron movement, there should be a gap between the aileronedge and the tip, s ee Drawing 30.2 below.

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DRAWING30.2

STEP 7Cut a triangular piece of plywood (not supplied). This is bonded between the two fiberglass

surfaces of the wing tip to act as a stiffener and is held in place by inserting rivet shanks through theglass and ply wood. A small strip of ply could also be fitted to seal the gap between the end of the wingand the triangular piece just fitted.

STEP 8Fit the tip onto the wing making sure the leading edge is tight against the spar tube. (Some sanding on

the inside of the wing tip is required). The inside edge of the wing tip sits flush with the inside edge ofrib 9. Make sure the wing tip is level with the wing as you will be setting the aileron to this for rigginglater. Match drill the nut plate holes into the rib. See Figures 30.3a and b.

89

Scribeline

Step 3

Trailingedge

PlyWood

Step6

Note: Notch will be approximately 2, this allows theaileron to extend past the No 9 rib and gives a gap between the edge of aileron and tip.


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F igur e 30.3a F igur e 30.3b

For fixed option

Glue the tip to the spar cap with epoxy and (flush) rivet it on the seam at 5 intervals (on alternate sides of capstrip not through center into rib web).

The surface of the tips may need some work to remove minor blemishes etc. use lightweight fillerand a sanding block to get a smooth finish (applies to all tip types/fitting methods).

31. Install all Pulleys and cables

AILERON CONTROL CABLES FIRST STAGE MAKE UPSTEP 1For the down-aileron cable take the W- 0550 cable and measure the length (15) necessary to run from

the aileron bottom horn, through the lower pulley and parallel to the rear spar tube on to the fuselagecenter line. Cut 2 lengths of this measurement.

SEE FULL SIZED RIB CABLE OUTLET TEMPLATE, IN TEMPLATESECTION LOCATED IN THE BACK OF YOUR MANUAL.

STEP 2For the up-aileron cable, take the remaining W-0550 cable and measure the length necessary to run

from the aileron top horn, through the upper pulley, through ribs 6 to 1, through the head rack pulley,through the fairlead around the rear seat frame pulley, around the front seat frame pulley and onto thecontrol column. Cut 2 lengths of this (approx. 15).

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STEP 3On one end of each cable fit a W-0560 Nicopress sleeve and W-0570 thimble. With the cable snugly

fitted around the thimble, and the sleeve right up against the thimble, crush the sleeve with an approvedtool. Trim the cable free end to from the sleeve then fit and shrink an enclosing length of heatshrink tubing.

FLAP CONTROL CABLES

FIRST STAGE MAKE UPSTEP 1

For the flap cables, take the 3- 32 cable and cut two pieces 8 long.

STEP 2

On one end of each cable fit a Nicopress sleeve and thimble. With the cable snugly fitted around thethimble and the sleeve right up against the thimble crush the sleeve with an approved tool. Trim thecable free end to from the sleeve, then fit and shrink an enclosing length of heat shrink tubing.

ROUTING OF AILERON CABLES

The down-aileron cable needs to run from the pulley through the rib webs to the center joining pointin as straight a line as possible. You should use the templates provided to drill the holes for cable runs.Drill 1/8 holes first and enlarge to 5/16.

STEP 1

Make up 14 cable guides per wing - approximately 2 long - for each wing from the W-0580 materialsupplied. These are inserted into the holes drilled in the rib web. They should be positioned so that thecable still runs in a straight line through the center of the hole in the rib and the hole in the guide. see

Figures 31.1a and b.


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STEP 2Attach the down-aileron cable to the bottom of the aileron horn using the W-0590 shackles and AN3-5

bolts with AN310-3 nuts and AN380-2-2 cotter pins provided; pass it around the bottom pulley insidethe keepers then through the nylon guide tube in ribs 1-6.

STEP 3Attach the up-aileron cable to the top of the aileron horn using the W-0590 shackles and AN3-5 bolts

provided, pass it around the bottom pulley inside the keepers then through the nylon guide tube in ribs1- 6.

ROUTING OF FLAP CABLES

The route of the flap cables is from the control horn over the pulley (which turns the cable to runforward parallel to the spar tube), through a nylon guide in rib 1, onto the head rack pulley (outer

pulley), through the fairlead, onto the turnbuckle (for ease of removal/adjustment), down to the pulleyat the rear of the seat frame, onto the pulley at the center of the rear seat frame then over the pulley onthe end of the flap handle attachment brackets. It is then attached to the flap lever itself.

STEP 1Drill a 5/16 (8mm is perfect!) diameter hole in the rib web, using the templ ates provided.

STEP 2From the W- 0580 material supplied make up a cable guide for each wings root rib approximately 2

long. These are then inserted into the holes drilled in the rib web. You may use epoxy to bond them in place if you wish.

STEP 3Attach the cable to the flap horn using the W-0660 shackles and AN3-5 bolts provided, pass it around

the pulley inside the keeper then through the nylon guide tube in rib 1.

FINALIZING AILERON CABLE RUNS

The cable runs can be completed when the control sticks are fitted and the wings are in position.However, it is probably better to do this when the aircraft has been covered and painted and is in finalassembly.

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STEP 3Fit the nylon fair leads F-3030 into the fuselage bushings and secure with the clip provided. It is

suggested that you also install the fair leads for the flap cables at this time. See Figure 31.4.A

F igur e 31.4.A

F igure 31.4.B

To summarize - so far, the aileron cable exits the wing and is fed through the head rack pulley,through the two plastic fair leads bushings.

STEP 4Turnbuckles for adjustment/easy disconnect are fitted in the cable between the fair lead and the rear

seat frame pulley. Use Nicopress sleeves and thimbles. Adjust the turnbuckle to its mid position andsecure the cables to the turnbuckle with Nicopress sleeves. See Figure 31.4.B

STEP 5Feed the cable through the rear aileron control pulley then feed it through the front pulley.

STEP 6Finally, attach the cable to the control sticks. Use Nicopress sleeve and thimble to make the

attachment, and connect using shackle and the AN3-5 bolts.

STEP 7Join the up-aileron cables on the fuselage center line with a single turnbuckle; secure the cables to the

turnbuckles with Nicopress sleeve and thimble assemblies.94


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Notes: When fitting the Nicopress sleeve etc., ensure that the turnbuckles are in the central position

and that the ailerons are set to their neutral position. Final adjustment will be made using theturnbuckles, so be careful about cable lengths before Nicopress sleeving them as the sleeves cannot beundone, if you get it wrong a new cable will have to be installed. Finish with heat shrink tubing asdescribed previously.

All turnbuckles will need to be clipped or lock wired after final adjustment.

FINALIZING FLAP CABLE RUNS

The cable runs can be completed when the flap handle and plates have been fitted and the wings are in position. However it is probably better to do this when the aircraft has been covered and painted and isin final assembly.

STEP 1Using AN4-15A bolts fit the flap control pulleys to the rear seat frame at the bottom of the head rack,

see Figure 9.5a.

STEP 2Using AN4-17A bolts fit the flap control pulleys to the center of the rear seat frames, s ee Figure 31.5b.

Dont forget the cable keepers .


To summarize - so far the cable exits the wing and is fed through the head rack pulley (installedduring aileron cable setup) then down through the nylon fair lead (installed during aileron cable setup).

STEP 3Turnbuckles (for adjustment/easy disconnect) are fitted in the cable between the fair lead and the rear

seat frame pulley. Use Nicopress sleeve and thimble. Adjust the turnbuckle to its mid position andsecure the cables to the turnbuckle with Nicopress sleeves.

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STEP 4Feed the cable through the rear seat frame pulley (inside the cable keeper).

STEP 5Feed the cable through the central seat frame pulley (inside the cable keeper).

STEP 6Feed cable through the pulley on the end of the flap handle attachment plate (inside the cable keeper).

Note: be careful here, the cable must pass over the top of the pulleys otherwise the flap deployment positions will be wrong.

STEP 7Finally, attach the cable to the flap handle. The cable end is wrapped around the F-2510.0 cable

bushing and secured with a Nicopress sleeve. Both cable ends are attached to the flap lever using thissequence as follows AN 3-12A bolt, AN 970-3penny washer, AN 960-10 standard washer, AN 113-3cable bushing (with cable attached), 2 standard washers, flap handle, 2 standard washers, cable bushing(with cable attached), standard washer, penny washer and finally the AN 3-10 castle nut with AN 380-2-2 cotter pin.nut. (You will have to drill the bushings and handle with a #10 drill.) See Figure 31.6.

F igur e 31.6

Notes: When fitting the Nicopress sleeve etc., ensure that the turnbuckles are in the central positionand that the flaps are set to their neutral (up - zero degrees) position. Final adjustment will be madeusing the turnbuckles, so be careful about cable lengths before Nicopress sleeving them as the sleevescannot be undone, if you get it wrong a new cable will have to be installed. Finish with heat shrinktubing as described previously. When drilling the flap handle do not drill to high or the bolt will

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