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Knotting & Braiding

Step by Step Guide to Knotting. Including:

Kumihino & Macrame!

Doris J. Barnes

Copyright © 2016 by Doris J. Barnes

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Table of Contents

Book Description

Chapter 1 - Essential Equipment

Cords and Threads

Wire

Beads

Findings

Finishing ends

Jewelry Findings

Jewelry Fastenings

Chapter 2 - Knotting

Basic Knots

Macramé Knots

Fusion

Chapter 3 - Braiding

Kumihimo

Essential Tools

Braiding Patterns

Conclusion

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Chapter 1

Essential Equipment

If you are craft person or a beader, then you may already

have most of the essential equipment for knitting and

braiding in your workbox. You do not have to acquire all

the equipment at once, but you can try to improvise, but

ensure that you use the tools and equipment listed or a

similar material to ensure that you achieve the best results.

Let us discuss some of the essential equipment for knitting

and braiding:

Cords and Threads

There are variety of cords and threads which can be used

for the purpose of knitting and braiding.

How to Choose Cords

After learning a particular technique, it is good for you to

exercise it several times while using different materials and

observe the results that you get. Use of soft cord such as

embroidery cottons or satin rattail may make the knots lose

their definition, while use of stiffer cord like Superlon can

lead to a more distinct shape of the knots. Also, it is good

for you to be aware that each of cords comes in different

thicknesses, which can be worked either in multiple

bundles or singly.

A Guide on Cords

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The following are some of the available and good cords for

knotting and braiding and the range of thicknesses available

for each:

1. Satin cord (rattail)

This is a silky cord with a high sheen. It is provided

in a variety of thicknesses. Mousetail is 15mm think,

bugtail 1mm thick while rattail 2mm thick.

Practically, these are all referred to as rattail. The

cord is very soft, making it not good for supporting

the shape of the knots. It is also not very hard-

wearing.

2. Wax cotton cord

This cord can be used in a number of techniques. Get

the thicker 3mm cord as it is suitable for knotted

braids and individual knots due to its ability to hold

well in shape. They are made in a variety of colors

and shapes, and they usually follow the emerging

trends.

3. Chinese knotting cord

This is s a nylon breaded cord and it holds its round

shape after being worked. Thicker Chinese cords are

good for knotting techniques, while the finer cords

are good for macramé and stringing with beads. The

cord is made in 0.4- 3mm. Search online for your

most favorable color, but remember that the wider

cords are available in limited colors.

4. Superlon

This is a string twisted nylon cord used for

upholstery. It is made in widths of 0.5mm and

0.9mm, which makes it good for knotting techniques

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in which one needs a fine finish or braid such as

micro macramé. These cords are good for addition of

beads in braiding or knotting. If you need to change

the texture, mix it with some thicker cords. Both sizes

are made in a wide variety of colors, so choose your

favorite color.

5. Leather thing

The rounder leather thing is a very firm cord. It is

made in a variety of thicknesses, ranging from 0.5mm

to 6mm. The thinner cords are suitable for tying knots

while the thicker ones are good for use as core for

tying round the knots. It is available in a wide variety

of colors and natural shades.

6. Paracord

This is made in two thicknesses, that is, paracord

450(2mm) and paracord 550 (4mm). The former has

seven strands down from the centre while the later is

made with 4 centre strands. Paracord is suitable for

making accessories such as bracelets. Due to its

bulkiness, it is widely used for making men’s

jewelry. The cord comes in a wide variety of colors

and multi-colored patterns.

7. Embroidery threads

This includes cotton perle and stranded cotton and

these are good for use in plaiting, knotting and

braiding. They are a bit soft, making them capable of

holding firmly the shape of a knot, but combine them

with some stiffer cords and they will look nice. It

comes in a wide variety of colors compared to the

other cords, so choose the most exciting color. Since

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the embroidery threads are matte, use the metallic

embroidery threads for addition of a touch of sparkle.

8. Faux suede

This is a flat microfiber cord which looks like a real

leather suede. However, it is more pliable compared

to the real thing, and this makes it give a different

look to knotted braids or knots. In comes with a width

of 3mm and in a wide variety of colors.

Wire

The use of wire for knotting is not common because of the

difficulty of tying the wire without getting kinked, but we

can use a wire to make knots via the wrapping technique.

Finer wire can be used for making kumihimo braid and for

finishing in braiding and knotting.

How to choose a Wire

A suitable wire for knotting and braiding should be the one

capable of resisting breakage even after being bent forth

and back severally. Most of the wires used for craft have a

copper core which makes them suitable for this, but it is

good for you to try using different wires.

Let us discuss some of the jewelry wires, but it is good for

you to know that two or even more thin wires can be

manipulated easily compared to one thick wire.

Copper wires

This is a cheap wire, commonly used for experimenting in

braiding and knotting techniques. Most craft wires are

made with a copper core with enameled colors and plated

metallic finishes. Copper craft wires sold for knitting or

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crochet are softer. You should also know that the thinner

wires can be manipulated easily compared to the thicker

wires.

Silver wires

This wire is expensive but it gives high quality jewelry. It

comes in different thicknesses, with the hard one being

common. It is also made in different cross sections such as

square, rectangular, round and D-shape. Choose the softer

one as it will make yo0ur work easier.

Aluminum wire

Aluminum is softer than copper, and this is why we can

have being thicker. Use nylon-jaw pliers so as to prevent

the wire from getting damaged.

Coated wires

These are good for experimentation. Choose plastic, paper

or wrapped ones with fine thread since they are less likely

to kink and they can give you good results.

Wire Gauges

These are available in a range of gauges or thicknesses and

they are sold by a millimeter, American wire gauge or

standard wire gauge. Use a 0.6mm wire for finishing your

jewelry and 0.315mm for kumihimo.

Beads

These can be added to all braiding and knotting techniques

in a number of ways, either during knotting or braiding, or

afterwards.

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How to choose Beads

Seed Beads

The basic ones are doughnut shaped with a size of 1-

5.5mm. The cylinder-shaped ones have large holes, and one

can stung double delicas onto 1mm cord. Experiment by

use of different textures such as square, hex, triangle and

others.

Focal beads

These are extra large beads and they are used as the focal

point for jewelry. You can use a bail for suspending the

pendant beads onto the braids, or attach the cords to ring

beads so as to work knotting techniques such as macramé

or others. You can use end caps to attach large beads to two

lengths of finished braid.

Large beads

There are several beads which we can use in braiding,

ranging from the simple wood beads to the crystals and

exquisite pearls, and you can choose any. You should not

be restricted by the size of the bead hole since some beads

will have large holes.

Findings

These are the little pieces made from metal, and they are

used for making and finishing the accessories such as

jewelry. Most of these findings are used for the purpose of

covering the raw ends of braids or cords. Always make sure

that you get the best shape and size. Also, ensure that you

have enough findings in your workbox to help you finish

your the different pieces.

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Finishing ends

We use findings for finishing the ends of knotted cords and

braids. More styles of these are manufactured on a yearly

basis and different metallic finishes are used. To get the

best results, ensure that the internal dimensions of finishing

ends are matched with the braids or cords.

Cord ends

These are used for finishing single cords, and some of the

styles have lugs which you are expected to secure over cord

by use of pliers, while others are tubular and you should

secure using integral crimp ring or glue.

End cones

These bell or cone-shaped findings can be finished using a

loop at the top or can be made with a hole. To get the best

results, secure the braid into the two styles by use of

jewelry glue.

Spring ends

These findings were used even in the older days, and they

can be cone or cylindrical in shape. Braid inside your wire

coil or tuck the cord, and secure the end ring by squeezing

with pliers.

End caps

They come in square, cylindrical and rectangular versions

of the end cones, and they are finished with a loop or ring

at the top, or have a hole. To get the best results, secure the

braid into all styles by use of jewelry glue.

Ribbon crimps

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These have been made so as to cover the ribbon’s raw end,

but they can be used for finishing the cord or flat braids. To

prevent this from damage, close the ribbon crimp by use of

nylon jaw.

Jewelry Findings

These are used as the basic components for making many

styles of jewelry. They come in a wide variety of metallic

finishes such as antique, so ensure that you get the best

color so as to match your braid.

Jump rings

They come in both oval and round shapes, and you can

open or close them by use of flat-nose pliers. Use them for

connecting items or attaching other fastenings or findings.

The smaller rings pull open easily compared to the larger

rings.

Split rings

A hard metal coil is used for making these, making them

more secure compared to a jump ring. Split-ring pliers

should be used to prise these open so that they can be

attached to the other findings.

Headpins

These are straight wire findings used for making bead

dangles with wrapped or plain loop. They have a decorative

or plain end for preventing the beads from falling off and

they are of different lengths. Choose the soft wire pins as

they are easy to manipulate.

Crimps

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They are used with the bead stringing wire. You can secure

them using crimp pliers or flatten by use of flat-nose pliers.

Use them for spacing beads on single wire or on a doubled

wire for securing to a flattening or jump ring.

Eyepins

These are pieces of wire running straight and they are of

different lengths. One of their ends has a round loop. They

are used for making bead links or for creation of a loop

with an end cap having been attached at the braid’s end.

Calottes

These are also known as bead tips, and they used for

attaching fastenings neatly when stringing beads. The basic

calotte is made with a notch on one of the domes. For high

security, get clamshell calottes having a hole in the hinge.

Jewelry Fastenings

These are findings which are used for finishing pieces of

jewelry like bracelets, earrings, necklaces and rings. Some

of them are end caps and a magnetic fastening has been

incorporated in the design. Always, ensure that you use the

style which matches the edn cap and fits the braid in weight

and color.

Toggle fastening

This is a two-part fastening with a ring and T-bar. Turn the

T-bar on side and then slot it out or in of the ring. Ensure

that you get the most decorative style.

Magnetic fastenings

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These are made with a strong magnet in the design. They

are good for finishing bracelets and necklaces. To prevent

the clasp from pulling apart, use a soft chain.

Trigger clasp

This is a cheap fastening having a spring closure and is

good for finishing necklaces and bracelets. Choose the best

style for yourself.

Plastic Clasps

These are made to be used in various knotting techniques

like the macramé, and they are made with a bar end for

attaching the cords. They come in a wide variety of colors

and sizes.

Multi-strand clasps

These are made in a wide range of styles. The slider

fastening is good for cuff-style bracelets such as macramé,

while the box-shaped one is good for necklaces. Use the

best number of rings on sides to fit your project.

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Chapter 2

Knotting

Basic Knots

Anyone who uses knots should be aware of the basic knots.

They represent the basics of several other knots. The

following are the basic knots:

1. Overhand knot- this is the simplest knot to make. A

knot is made at the rope’s end for prevent fraying and

act as a stopper knot.

2. Half hitch- to create this knot, tie a rope round an

object and then back to itself. Follow it by a second

half hitch since it cannot be secure when used alone.

3. Half knot- this is a binding knot and we use it for

joining two ropes.

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4. Square knot- this knot is used for joining ropes of

equal sizes such as a parcel or sail covers. Do not use

it for human or critical loads since it may slip after

spilling into two half hitches.

5. Sheet bend- this is used for joining ropes o unequal

sizes, but you can also use it to join ropes of equal

sizes and it will work well. To tie it, keep both ends

loose on hands and ensure that there is no load in the

rope.

6. Figure 8 knot- this acts as a stopper knot by

preventing a rope from sliding through the pulley. It

can also be used for addition of security to another

knot. The knot can be undone with much ease, but it

is less secure compared to the double overhand.

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7. Slip knot- this is used for creation of a temporary loop

at a rope’s end, and this should loosen once pulled.

8. Noose knot- this should create a loop at the rope’s

end, but this should tighten after being pulled.

Macramé Knots

Let us discuss how the macramé knots can be created.

1. Larks Head knot

This knot should be used for connection of a cord to

an object. To create this, slide a loop around an object

such as a chopstick and a loop will be create. Pull the

tails through this loop.

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2. Alternating half hitch

To tie this, pass t5he cord around a carrier cord, then

through the formed loop. To make it alternate, switch

it forth and back between two cords.

3. Horizontal Double Half Pitch

Take two half hitches and then tie them around a

carrier cord. Use a pin between your cords as it will

give you an object to pull against. Pull it snug,

holding the carrier cord straight. You will get a

complete row made up of knots.

4. Diagonal Double Half Pitch

The only difference between this knot and the

horizontal double half pitch is that in this case, the

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carrier cord has to be held diagonally while tying the

knots.

5. Vertical Lartkshead Knot

The left cord has to be tied round and above the right

cord. It should then be passed through the space

between the second cord and then over itself. You

can then pull snug. The left cord should be passed

round and below the right cord. It should then be

passed through the created space and also under

itself. Pull snug and then repeat the steps over and

over until a sennit is created.

6. Vertical Double Half Pitch

Put a pin between two cords. This will act as an

anchor which you can pull against. Use the first cord

to tie a half pitch round the second cord. Pull it snug.

By use of the same cord for working, move it to next

cord in row and then repeat similar steps so as to tie a

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new vertical half pitch round your new cord. You can

then pull it snug. Repeat similar steps until you get a

complete row.

7. Berry knot

Tie a row forming square knots. Make sure that you

make at least 3 knots. Pass the center cords and then

pass them up between the center of the cords and

above the knots. Pull the cord down until your square

knots curl to form a ball. Use similar cords for tying a

knot round the cords which were not pulled through

cords on top of the knot.

8. Josephine Knot

By use of the left cord, make a loop which faces the

right side. Make the lower part of your cord pass

behind upper part. Take your right cord and then

place it across the loop made. Pass the cord below the

lower part of your left cord. Pass it on top of the left

cord by bringing it round, under the top of your loop,

over cord part which has been passed above the loop,

and under the outer part of the loop. Tighten it gently,

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but ensure that the two sides are kept even. If you

need to create a double knot, just add a second cord

on each side.

9. Alternating square knot

Take eight cords and hang them down. Use cord 1

and 4 to tie a square knot. Use cord 5 and 8 so as to

tie the second square knot. Use cord 3 and 6 to make

a new square knot. Repeat the steps 1 and 2.

Alternate between step 1 and 2 to get a longer one.

Fusion

Fleur de Lis

Take a 24-inch cord and fold it half. Ensure you have

secured it at the center. Make a loop, and let the left cross

over right. Use the end which is on the left. Bring it over

and under the loop to create an overhand knot. Move the

ends to the top before you can move on.

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Extend your knot downward so that you may be in a

position to see the crossed area clearly and the two loops

which are located at the bottom. Ensure you have secured

the three areas. Use the end in the right to create a bight,

and ensure that you have secured it.

Make a right loop by moving the right end to left while

rotating in a clockwise direction.

While arranging the end horizontally, make sure that it is

passed over everything.

Make use of the left end so as to make a new loop. Pass it

over right end so as to bring it below.

Pass the left end under the segments while bringing it to the

right. Pull it out via the right loop.

At this point, the right end should be on the left side. Move

it back to right. Pass it in its path and over the segments. A

space should be left below the left loop, at the curving of

the right end.

Pass the left end over the right end, while preparing to

move it back to left. It should be passed under the rest of

the segments, and then protrude through the space.

Pull both ends so as to firm up your square knots and

tighten the whole design. Pull the upper ones so as to make

the lower loops smaller.

The loops at top left and right should be made larger so as

to curve outward. The center loop should be made to be a

bit pointing.

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Portuguese sennit

Cut a cord of about 60 inches long. Make a large loop by

folding it, and ensure that you make the size you want it to

be after you are done.

Tie a square knot by use of the two ends. The loop will

form the filler cords.

Make sure that the loop has been placed 6 inches below the

region in which the ends have crossed. Tie other several

knots until you get closer to the loop’s end at the bottom. If

you need to make it be of a specific size, ensure that you

measure while progressing. Just stop once you see you have

the desired size.

Pass the ends via the loop at the Portuguese Sennit’s

bottom. Make sure that one of the ends enters the loop from

above and the other one from below, and they should head

in the opposite directions.

Begin by pulling the lower loops so as to remove one of

them from the top, but if you are in need of both, do not do

it. Pull the other loop at the top, which is good for securing

the ends.

Heat so as to finish the ends or just tuck them into the

sennit’s back.

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Genoese Sennit

Begin by folding one of the cords into half, and form a

large loop. Place the cross point at the top. Also, ensure that

the right and the left cross each other. Note that size of the

design will be determined by the size of the loop, just like

in our previous knot.

Make a clockwise half hitch by use of the right end round

the loop, and this will form fillers. To create the half hitch,

just tie the end under and over the fillers. You can then tie

it over the end in work.

Make a half hitch in anticlockwise direction by use of the

cord’s left end. Place it below your first one.

Alternate it between the two ends, moving back and forth,

until you have create the rest of the half hitches. Once you

find yourself getting to the loop’s bottom, just stop.

Pass both ends through the created loop. One of the ends

should get in from below while the other one from the top,

that is, in opposite directions.

Secure the ends by pulling the loop at the upper part.

Tuck the ends into the sennit’s back or heat them so as to

ensure that they are secure.

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Caged Solomon Bar

This is almost similar to the square know, but filler cords

are used for adding uniqueness to the knot. To decorate it,

make sure that you use two colors.

Begin by cutting two cords, each at least 60 inches in

length. Use the working cord to make a loop at the center,

and cross it right over left.

Move the filler through the created loop, ensuring that you

pass it under and over. The ends should also be matched so

that it can be centered.

Pass the left portion of your filler cord over front part of

crossed section for the working cord. Move the right

portion to the back.

Move your filler cord to the right, and over the right

working cord. Fold and bring it to where it began, ensuring

that it is passed under working cord.

To tie a half knot, pass the left working cord over fillers

and under the right working cord. Move your working cord

towards the right side under two fillers, and move it over

curved portion of the left working cord.

Pull the ends of your working cord so as to tighten the knot.

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Secret River Bar

Cut two cords, ensuring that each is at least 60 inches long.

The best thing is to ensure that each cord is 8 x longer than

the size that you want. If you need to begin the Secret River

bar at the center, just cut 4 cords, ensuring that each is 4 x

longer than the length that you desire.

Fold the color A and then make it secure in the board. This

color will be used for running through the center of the

sennit in a zigzag line.

Find a color B, and then make it secure under your color A.

Bring their ends to the front part and then make them cross

right over left.

Pass the two ends of the color A of the area of color B

which has been crossed. Pass them the space which has

been created by the two halves of the color A. Tighten by

pulling them down in a straight line. Also, pull the color B

ends.

At this point, before continuing with the rest of the steps,

the four cords that you are having now are considered to be

separate cords.

Move the color B on the left side to the right, ensuring that

you have passed it over the color A. Pass it below the color

B on the right.

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Move the color B on the right side below the fillers,

towards the left. Pull it out, and pass over the color B on

the left. With that, you will have completed the first half of

the square knot. Leave the knot un-tightened.

Move the color A cord on the left side up and over and the

front part of the knot you have just tied. Pass it through the

space created by the color A loop. Pull it down, ensuring

that it is passed at the back of the color B. At this point, feel

free to tighten the knots as it is of great importance.

Now, pull the ends of the color B, as this will help to

tighten the knot. You can then pull both ends of the color A

firmly.

Move the color B cord on the left side ensuring that you

pass it below the color A cord. Pull it up to the right side,

and ensure that it passes over the color B cord. You can

then pull the color B cord, and then pull the color A cord.

Note that the color A cord which is to be used should be on

the left side.

For your second half, begin with the color B cord, meaning

that you should use the right half of your color A cord.

Turn the Secret Bar over so as to ensure that the color A

cords are of equal sizes. Tighten the cords of color A if

they have not been tightened. However, you can leave one

of them to be somehow loose.

Continue alternating as we did before until you get the knot

of the size that you need.

Now, finish the ends of color B in the manner that you

want. If you are using Paracord, just cut the ends, and then

heat it to ensure that it melts and will be strong.

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You can also use the cords of color A for tying of a button

knot, or for attaching a bead or a button so as to form a

clasp.

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Chapter 3

Braiding

Kumihimo

This is a traditional Japanese technique used for braiding

silk strands to create colored cords. The cords are referred

to as “kumihimo”, and they strong, slender and can be used

in various fields.

Kumihimo is a Japanese word which means to

combine or gather cord or thread.

Essential Tools

Kumihimo braiding disk

This tool will make it easy for you to create a complex

kumihimo-braided design since the notches will hold fiber

firmly. After buying a braiding plate, you will be given

instructions and some project ideas which will help you in

getting started. You will also notice that the disks are made

from hardened foam or flexible plastic. Each disk has a

diameter of about 6 inches and 24 slots which are

distributed throughout their circumference. The disk has a

hole through which the kumihimo should hand. The threads

should be detached from secure slots for making the knots.

They are placed in new slots so that they can be held

tightly. These are mostly used by beginners, so if you are

one, take advantage of them. They will help you organize

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and separate the threads on even viewing field. As the cord

grows in length, it should be removed from the way.

However, it is good for you to note that the disks are not

good for experienced braiders. This is because they may be

in need of making cords which are too thick, and these may

fail to fit in the hole of the beginner’s braiding disk.

Maru Dai

This is a wooden tool which is like a miniature stool. As a

braider, you can hone the skills you have known from the

disk on this tool. The maru dai is capable of standing on its

own, and the braider is allowed to create intricate patterns

without having to worry about the stability of the disk.

Instead of having slots for holding threads, it has weighted

bobbins which allow it to maintain the stability. As a

braider, this tool can help you use any number of threads

that you want and create any formation that you need since

you will not limited by slot number as in the disk. This

means that you will be in a position to create flat graphic

cords rather than the round cords.

Kaku Dai

This is a maru dai which has been inverted. It is used for

holding the finished cord expanse on a stand but upwards.

With this, the bobbins are kept hanging, and everything

will be made secure. As a braider, it is good for you to

know how to keep the tension balanced. If you are using

this tool, ensure that you are aware of how to maintain the

tension as it will help you achieve best quality results.

Note that you can get the kumihimo kits online and even at

a reduced price. You will also be given instructions which

will help you get started. Also, note that as the complexity

of the design increases, the use of the kumihimo tools also

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become hard. Larger looms require extensive skills to be

used and they produce kumihimo cords which are too thick.

Braiding Patterns

Round braid

This forms the most versatile and basic kumihimo braid

pattern. It is also easy for anyone to complete. It best suits

jewelry makers.

8 Wrap Around Braid:

Begin by loading the kumihimo disk with threads on slots

32 & 1, 8 & 9, 16 & 17, 24 & 25.

Hold the kumihimo disk ensuring that the slot 32 is in 12

o’clock position. The threads can then be moved from 1 to

15 and then from 17 to 31.

Use the kumihimo disk to make a quarter turn in the right

direction, and make the slot 24 be in the 12 o’clock

position. Move the slot 25 to 7 and then slot 9 to 23.

Using the kumihimo disk, make a quarter turn in the right

direction to make the slot 15 be in the 12 o’clock position.

Move the threads from slot 16 to 30 and then 32 to 14.

Again, turn your kumihimo disk to the right direction and

make the slot 7 be in the 12 o’clock position. Move your

threads, from slot 8 to 22 and then 24 to 6.

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You will then have created a basic pattern. You will begin

to see the braid appear on the lower part of the disk.

Half Round Braid

This pattern should give you a flat braid but one of the

sides appears to be rounded. A chevron pattern should run

down through the center. It should be worked out with

yarns, ribbons and threads. After braiding, it becomes easy

for one to embellish this braid by use of beads. You can

also choose to add the beads during braiding, but for some

warps only, so if you are making a fully beaded one, make

a round braid.

Add threads into the slots 32 & 1, 8 & 9, 16 & 17, 24 & 25

of the kumihimo disk. Make the moves given below:

32 to 10, and then 1 to 23




After making the above moves, return your threads into

their starting positions and then repeat the moves and you

have the length that you require for the braid.

You may be in need of creating a heart design position. In

such a case, use slots 8 and 25 to place the color of the

hearts.

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To have a single color at the middle and another color in an

outside position, just add one of the colors in slots number

8, 16, 17 and 25 and then another color in the rest of the

slots.

For the case of addition of beads, do not attempt to add the

beads unless you are good in making the basic round braid.

The following moves can help you to add the braids:

9 to 1 and then 24 to 32


Hollow Braid

This pattern helps you create a braid having a hollow core,

and you can thread a wire through the core for braiding.

However, with this braid, you will realize that the

movement will have to change after each round from

clockwise to anti-clockwise. Tension is of great importance

in this braid. After each complete move, ensure that you

pull the braid from below the disk. We don’t recommend

that you add beads to the braid during the process of

beading.

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Begin by adding threads to the kumihimo disks on slots

number 32 & 1, 8 & 9, 16 & 17, 24 & 25. Carry out the

moves given below:

32 to 7, then 8 to 15, followed by 16 to 23, and then 24 to

32. The threads should be moving in a clockwise direction

round your kumihimo disk.

1 to 26, then 25 to 18, followed by 17 to 10, and then 9 to

1. The threads should be moving in an anti-clockwise

direction round your kumihimo disk.

You can then place the threads back to their initial position.

Square Braid

This pattern gives a distinctive braid with a square shape

and a plated look. It is very good for those braiding in two

colors. With this pattern do not add braids during the

process of beading. After each round, the disk movement

will always change direction from clockwise to anti-

clockwise.

Set the kuhimo disk just by addition of threads in slots

number 32 & 1, 8 & 9, 16 & 17, 24 & 25.

Perform the moves given below:

Clockwise:

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Anti-clockwise:



At this point, return the threads on either side to the initial

position, but ensure that you leave them readily crossed

both at the top and at the bottom.

Spiral Braid

This is a kumihimo braid with 12 warps and it has a unique

and spiral pattern. If you are sure that you have not fully

mastered the braid, then ensure that you use 3 colors. If you

need to add beads during the process of braiding, then do

so.

Begin by setting up your kumihimo disk with one of the

colors (green) in slots 30, 31, 18 and then 19. To avoid

confusion, remember that each slot is located on the left

side of its number. If you find confusion in knowing the

numbers, just confirm from “Quick No Number Method’

located at the bottom.

By use of another color, position threads in slots number 2,

3, 14 and then 15 (orange).

Position the other color in slots numbers 8, 9, 24 and then

25 (black).

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Use the orange cords to perform the moves given below:

3 to 13, then 15 to 1

Use the green cords to make the following moves:

31 to 17, then 19 to 29

Make a quarter turn the kumihimo disk in a clockwise

direction in a clockwise direction. After that, the slot

number 24 should be in 12 o’clock position. Move your

black cords as follows:


Make a quarter turn with the kumihimo disk ina clockwise

direction, and you should be having both the green and the

orange cords being at the top. The orange should be on the

left side while the green should be on the right side. Move

your green cords as follows:


Move your orange cords as follows:


Make a quarter turn with the kumihimo disk and in a

clockwise direction, and you will have the black cords

appearing at the top.

Move your black cords as follows:


You can then continue working in the same direction, that

is, clockwise direction. However, ensure that the orange

and the green cords do not cross.

The Quick No Number methods instructions given below

may be helpful to you:

35

1. Orange cords at top right down, and bottom left up,

just turn in anti-clockwise direction.

2. Green cords at top right down, and bottom left up, just

turn in anti-clockwise direction

3. Black cords at top right down, and bottom left up, just

turn in anti-clockwise

4. Green cords at top right down, and bottom left up, just


5. Orange cords at top right down, and bottom left up,

just turn in anti-clockwise

6. Black cords at top right down, and bottom left up, just


Seven Cord Braid

We need to demonstrate how one can make an

Aquarmarine Necklace. The following steps are necessary:

The aquamarine has to be threaded into a matching beading

wire/thread. This is good for enhancement of the stone

color, and this is why you should use it in the necklace. Get

rid of some stones used at the ends of the strand, making

sure that you have a symmetrical one at the end. Make a

loop at the ends by use of crimps. The loop has to be large

enough so as to allow 16 strands each 0.3mm cord.

Cut a 16 x 1m cord. Pass it through one side of a loop and

then place the cords on either sides of dots, and then use 4

cords in each of the slots. Braid until you reach the end of

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the cord. Finish the braid by use of glue in your end-cap.

Repeat similar steps for the other side.

Take the headpins and thread 3 stones into it. Move these

via a loop o beading wire/thread on one of the sides and

then wrap the headpins round the loop. Adjust the stones so

as to cover the loop. Repeat the same steps for the other

side.

To make a Gold 7 and Pearl bracelet, follow the steps given

below:

Cut a S-Lon 0.4mm of 7 x 60cm. Follow the above

instructions to create 7 cord braid.

Take seed beads of 22-26 gold 4mm and then thread them

onto 6 cords and a similar amount of black pearls (4mm)

onto another cord. Use the beads to braid and then use 2cm

un-beaded braid to finish. You can then make the bracelets

complete. Use a coil or headpin or a glue ending.

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Conclusion

We have come to the end of this guide. The first thing

before beginning to create knots or braids is to assemble the

essential tools. Note that different tools are used for both

knotting and braiding techniques, meaning that you have to

assemble such tools before commencing the work. For the

case of knotting, the essential tools for the technique are

very common and you can easily find them in your

workbox. If you don’t have these, and if you lack money to

buy the essential tools, it is always good for you to

improvise what you have. However, to ensure quality

results, it is good for you to buy the necessary tools as we

have discussed in this book. As you might have noticed,

braiding tools are a bit complex for one to use, and

especially the beginners. It is recommended that you begin

with the disk and advance as you improve your braiding

skills.

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