Applying Collars Without Back Facings 1. Finish the shoulder and outer edge of the

bodice facing in the manner suitable for the fabric. 2. Place the collar in position on the neckline

with under collar against the right side of the gar­ment. From the front edges to the shoulder seams, match notches and markings and pin.

3. Clip the top collar seam allowance at the shoulder seams. Pin only the under collar to the back neckline between the shoulder seams, leaving the upper collar free. Baste in position (Figure 22).

4. Turn the front bodice facing back over the upper collar, matching the notches. Baste in posi­tion through all layers (Figure 23) .

Figure 23

/

5. Stitch the entire neckline as you basted it, leaving the upper collar free across the back. Trim the seam allowances different widths and clip the curve at Intervals.

6. Turn the front bodice facing right side out and press, pressing the back neck seam allowance toward the collar (Figure 24). Turn under the seam allowance of the upper collar and slipstitch to the back neck seamline. Slipstitch the shoulder edges of the bodice facing to the shoulder seam allowance.

Figure 24

Applying Standing Collars Without Facing 1. Staystitch the bodice neck seamline. Clip the

seam at intervals to the staystitching (Figure 25).

Figure 25

2. With right sides together, stitch the collar to the garment at the neck seamline and backstitch or tie the threads at both ends (Figure 26).

Flgute 26

3. Trim the seam allowances to different widths with the widest edge on the collar.

4. Press seams open and then toward the collar (Figure 27) .

Figure Z'I

\ 5. Slipstitch the pressed edge of the collar over

the seam, matching centers and dots (Figure 28).

Figure 28

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home economica, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. J. Michael Sprott, Director, Alabama Cooperative Extension Service, Auburn University. The Alabama Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, sex, age, or handicap. It is elso an Equal Employment Opponunity Employer. UPS, 15M06, 1:83, HE-490

Home Economics/Family Living

ALABAMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE I AUBURN UNIVERSITY, ALABAMA 36849

Collars Made SEW EASY Lenda Jo Anderson

Home Economist- Clothing

Collars come in all sizes and shapes, but basically there are three types.· The collar type is determined Figure 3 by the curve of the inner edges.

A flat collar (Figure 1) is cut with a deep curve at the neck's edge. This allows the collar to lie flat against the garment. A flat collar may be cut as one piece that encircles the neck, or it may have two separate parts such as a Peter Pan collar.

Figure 1

A rolled collar (Figure 2) stands up from the neckline and then folds,.or rolls, over onto the gar­ment. The line where the collar begins to roll is called the roll line. Notched collars and shawl collars have roll lines that extend into the bodice. A rolled collar may be constructed from separate upper and under collar pieces, or it may be one piece that folds in half to create upper and under pieces.

Figure 2

Standing collars (Figure 3) have straight or slightly curved neckline edges. This collar stands up over the neck seamline. It, too, is constructed from two pieces or from one piece that folds in half.

Most collars should be interfaced to shape them and to help them hold their shape. Follow directions in Circular HE-473, "Interfacing Made SEW EASY."

Constructing Flat Collars 1. Apply interfacing to the collar. Stitch the up­

per collar to the under collar with right sides to­gether, leaving the neck edge open (Figure 4).

Figure 4

2. Trim the interfacing close to the stitching. Trim the seam allowances to different widths with the widest edge on the upper collar. Notch or clip the curved seam allowances. Trim the corners diagonally (Figure 5) .

CIACUtAR HE-490

3. Press seams open and then toward the under collar, using a tailor's board and the tip of the iron (Figure 6).

Figure 6

4. Stitch just under the seamline through the under collar, interfacing, and the seam allowances (Figure 7). This Is called understitching.

Figure 7

5. Turn the collar right side out and roll the seamline edge under with your fingers. This will give the collar edge a neater appearance but will make the under collar extend beyond the upper collar at the neck edge. Baste along the outer edge of the collar to hold It in place until it is attached (Figure 8) .

Figure 8

6. When attaching the collar to the garment, be sure the two sides meet in the front at the neck seamline. This may cause the sides to overlap in the seam allowance (Figure 9) .

Figure 9

7. Pin the collar to the garment along the neck­line seam. Be sure the point where the two sides of the collar meet is placed on the center front line of the garment. Baste the collar in place (Figure 10) .

Figure 10

Constructing Rolled Collars 1. Apply interfacing to the collar. Stitch the up­

per collar to the under collar leaving the neck edges open. To get a well turned collar point, make one stitch diagonally across the corner of a fine fabric, two on a medium fabric, and three on a heavy fabric to allow for the turn of the cloth at the corner (Figure 11).

Figure 11

----------,, -- - ---1 --

' I I I I I I I

Medium weight fabric

2. Grade the seam allowances by trimming them close but to different widths with the widest edge on the upper collar. Trim across the corners and taper seams diagonally. Notch or clip curved seam allowances (Figure 12).

3. Press seams open and then toward the under collar, using a tailor's board (Figure 13).

Tailor's b()ard

/

4. Understitch by stitching just under the seam­line through the under collar, interfacing, and the seam allowances (Figure 14).

5. Turn the collar right side out. Pull the corners out by running a double-threaded needle through the point and gently pulling. Baste along the outer edge (Figure 15).

Figure 15

6. Shape the collar on a pressing ham. Pin it in place. Baste along the roll line through the upper and under collar (Figure 16). Steam and let it dry on the ham. Then remove the collar and baste the neck edges together where they fall. The edges will not be even.

Figure 16

7. With the under collar against the right side of the garment, match notches, pin, and baste the col­lar to the garment (Figure 17) .

Figure 17

Constructing Standing Collars 1. Interface the entire width of a single standing

collar, such as a mandarin (Figure 18). For a turn­down standing collar, such as a turtle-neck, interface only the turn-down portion and l!z inch (1.3 cm) in­to the stand-up area. Hold interfacing in place at the foldline with short stitches (Figure 19) .

1---Collar

--, ·+····· ··--·· ····· ....... ........ ..... ... .... .... ....... +. ~ Facing I

v

Figure 18

,- --- - -- -- -~ Collar I

+·~~t?.1!~? .. L. ___ - - - ~ Facing

Figure 19

2. Press under% inch (1.5 cm) on one notched edge. Trim to l/4 inch (6mm). Fold the collar along the foldline, right sides together and stitch the ends. Trim the seams and corners (Figure 20).

r Figure 20

3. Turn the collar right side out. Pull out the points and press (Figure 21).

Figure 21

Applying Collars with Neckline Facings Many collars are applied to the garment with

simple shaped or extended facings. Baste the collar to the garment with the under collar against the right side of the garment. Match all the marked points like darts and dots. Then follow the Instructions outlined in Circular HE-475, "Facings Made SEW EASY."