classsic climbers 2010

© Project SOUND

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants Project SOUND - 2010

© Project SOUND

Vines & Climbers for Classic Gardens

C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake

CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh Preserve

January 2 & 5, 2010

© Project SOUND

What is it about a grandmother’s garden?

© Project SOUND http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html

Many of our grandmothers (or great-grandmothers)

planned their gardens between 1900 & 1930’s

© Project SOUND

If this is your Grandmother’s Garden then

you’ll have to wait…

http://imagecache5.art.com/p/LRG/16/1647/9PEGD00Z/t-chiu-victorian-garden.jpg

Victorian Style Garden

© Project SOUND

Edwardian Gardens were very much a

revolt against the Victorian style

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/2930975253_e3036b0a45.jpg?v=0

Edwardian Style Garden

© Project SOUND

http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html

The roots of Edwardian Gardens were in the country

© Project SOUND

This period had many

things in common with ours

Natural open spaces (‘The Country’) were becoming rare – and were recalled nostalgically

Gardeners wanted an informal ‘natural look’ for their gardens – many used ‘old-fashioned’ native plants, often exuberantly

Leisure time was treasured – and there wasn’t enough of it

People loved to do as much as possible outdoors

City gardeners had to contend with ‘less than perfect’ views

Irrigation systems often consisted of a hose & spigot


© Project SOUND


In short, we can easily relate to the Edwardian Gardener

© Project SOUND

…and their Edwardian Gardens, which can suggest

ideas for our own (2010) gardens

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/03/Edwardian_garden_(horizontal).jpg

© Project SOUND

One of the first things we

notice is a good use of

vertical space

Low height (foreground) Grass

Groundcover plants

Non-living groundcover

Mid-height (middle ground) Shrubs & sub-shrubs

Hardscape elements (benches, pots, etc)

Taller height (background) Trees & large shrubs

Climbers and the supports for them (arches, trellises, etc.)

http://www.stmarysbramber.co.uk/images/rose_garden.JPG

© Project SOUND

The appropriate use of vertical space was

a key element of Edwardian gardens

http://www.bargatepublications.co.uk/talks/5006.jpg

© Project SOUND

Edwardian gardens used vines & climbers

When planting vines for height, they will need something to climb up.

Options are endless. Arbors, trellises and obelisks are built in several sizes and from many sorts of materials.

Natural materials, such as grapevine, bamboo and willow, work well for the informal garden.

http://www.wrcla.org/cedarprojects/planters/coveredseats.asp

Structures to support vines are

among the easier do-it-yourself

projects – and plans are available

© Project SOUND

Grape & rose arbors were popular features in

Edwardian gardens

http://historichouses.wordpress.com/2008/08/01/sagtikos-manor-west-bay-shore-ny/

Follow Mother Nature; informal, ‘natural’ style for restful urban gardens

Create pleasing places for outdoor living Shady and sunny places Places to sit/dine/etc.

Use native plants creatively – they are pretty, ‘old fashioned’ and don’t require as much water, care

Use valuable space to the max: use fore-, mid- and background-space

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27580952@N02/sets/

© Project SOUND

Our two California native grapes

CA Grape – Vitis californica

‘Roger’s Red’

Desert Wild Grape/S. CA Grape

Vitis girdiana

© Project SOUND

Grape arbors are great because the vines

provide fairly dense shade

http://gallinacanyonranch.com/grape-arbor.jpg

© Project SOUND

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/213/513090893_5eb749323d.jpg

http://www.garysumner.com/20718940_08.jpg

http://www.sundancelandscaping.com/images/projects/54ArboronDeck.jpg

Structures to support grapes (and other fast-growing, dense woody vines) need to be sturdy – don’t under-build them

© Project SOUND

Climbers require some guidance…


Which can be an enjoyable activity if you like the creativity

© Project SOUND

‘Natural’ and ‘Maintained’ arbors were both

used by Edwardian gardeners

The natural arbor is permitted to grow randomly, forming a thick mass of canes.

There is very little upkeep and the vines produce a dense shade.

Since the vines are not pruned annually, there would be significantly fewer grapes produced.

http://www.suelynncotton.com/landscapes.htm

© Project SOUND

‘Maintained’ arbors were used

by Edwardian gardeners,

particularly for grapes

The maintained arbor is covered by vines which are pruned to a two-bud spur-type cordon

Prune vines in Nov/Dec (or when vines are dormant) to a single cordon (trunk).

Each spur should be pruned to contain two or three buds.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/grapearbors/grape.html

© Project SOUND

Once the basic structure is achieved you

just maintain it Prune dormant vines

each year

Remove all new growth except for spurs with 2-3 buds

This type of pruning promotes a healthy grape crop

It also: Keeps the weight down Removes dead/weak

growth - rejuvenates

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/grapearbors/grape.html

© Project SOUND

Where to use

grapes?

Where ever you’d like some shade

http://www.mosaicartbyla.com/sitebuilder/images/front_grape_arbor2-389x284.jpg

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/v7WekBeoWLAngMvxp2RHQQ http://harrisonauth.us/

© Project SOUND

Other great uses for grapes….

Along fences, or over walls

As a rustic groundcover; great on slopes

Climbing a chain-link fence

http://wardroadgarden.blogspot.com/2008/07/grape-vines.html

© Project SOUND

http://jacquettamenzies.blogspot.com/2008/07/arts-and-crafts-garden.html

Lattice screens were popular in Edwardian gardens

© Project SOUND

Wood lattice - popular

from 1880’s to 1930’s

Easy to install

Economical

Good for narrow spaces

Looks neat and tidy

Many styles available

Can be used in many ways Fences Free-standing screens Trellises to grow vines On arbors/garden

benches Etc., etc., etc.

http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/woodcare/latticepanelinstallation.htm

http://www.reliablefenceboston.com/nss-folder/pictures/Image121.jpg http://www.freewoodworkingplan.com/index.php?cat=196

© Project SOUND

The many faces

of lattice

http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/5087563/227338-main_Full.jpg

http://bespokewoodcraft.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/Rustic_lattice_screens_1.36583311_large.jpg

http://cdn-write.demandstudios.com/upload//9000/500/90/7/29597.jpg

http://tucsonlandscaping.info/trellis

© Project SOUND

Vigorous native vines

to provide shade &

screen

Grapes – Vitis species

The Virgin’s Bowers -Clematis species

CA Wild Rose - Rosa californica

Morning-glories -Calystegia species

http://www.craftsman-style.info/garden/arbor.htm

© Project SOUND

Island Morning-glory – Calystegia macrostegia

© Project SOUND

* Pacific Morning-glory – Calystegia purpurata ssp. purpurata

© 2007 Neal Kramer

© Project SOUND

* Pacific Morning-glory – Calystegia purpurata ssp. purpurata

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Calystegia%20purpurata

Coastal and foothill regions of CA – more widely distributed than C. macrostegia (coastal & Channel Isl.)

Locally: Hollywood Hills, Griffith Park

Grows in coastal sage scrub of the coastline and the chaparral of the coastal and inland valleys.

© Project SOUND

Pacific Morning-glory – like Island species

Size: slightly smaller and daintier than C. macrostegia 6-8 ft long

6-8 ft wide

Growth form: Half-woody vine; base is

woody, new growth is more herbaceous (at least to begin with)

Upright but sprawling habit – in nature grows through other shrubs or on ground

Foliage: Typical, arrow-shaped leaves

Color: medium to blue-green

© 2009 Barry Breckling

http://www.homegardenguides.com/plant-database/calystegia-purpurata-ssp-purpurata-103165.html

© Project SOUND

Love those flowers!

Blooms: late spring through summer – just when you need a little summer color!

Flowers: Typical morning-glory shape

Small – ½ to ¾ inch across

White or pink; sometimes purple

Great for native pollinators

Seeds: Dark, round seeds in capsule

Soak for 2 hr in warm water prior to planting in fall


© Project SOUND

Pacific Morning-glory does well in western

L.A. County Soils:

Texture: just about any, including clays

pH: any local

Light: Full sun to part-shade (in hot,

inland gardens)

Water: Young plants: Zone 2-3

Winter: only during dry spells (when rains should normally occur)

Summer: occasional water (Zone 2 will keep it blooming)

Other: clean and prune to shape in fall/winter (dormant)

© 2007 Neal Kramer

© Project SOUND

I can see a Morning-glory in your garden

Along fence-lines; sprawling over walls or fences

Over a pergola or arch – wouldn’t it be nice to sit and enjoy!

As an unusual flowering groundcover – great on N and E-facing slopes

Climbing through a large native shrub

Climbing up a trellis – this species won’t take over!

As an attractive & unique pot plant http://queerbychoice.livejournal.com/627113.html

© Project SOUND

‘Bolinas’ cultivar

rivals non-native

species

Larger, pastel pink flowers

Delicate stems

Does well in gardens

http://www.calfloranursery.com/pages_plants/pages_c/calpurpurbol.html

© Project SOUND

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/3417180078_53e343bc10_o.jpg

Can you relate to this photo?

http://www.sanfranciscodays.com/photos/large/california-redwoods.jpg

© Project SOUND

Many native vines like part-shade

http://thebirdguide.com/washington/site_guides/tualatin_hills/tualatin_hills.htm

© Project SOUND

Plants have developed many strategies to

get light when competing with other plants.

Some grow enormously tall

Some latch onto branches in the canopy

Some grow in openings.

One group, the vines, scramble or twine their way to the light using larger and sturdier plants for support.

http://wildgardeners.blogspot.com/2007/12/forest-or-woodland-garden.html

© Project SOUND

What makes a vine a vine?

Often grow in shady/part-shade areas – like forests or dense shrublands

Developed a growth pattern that allows them to reach the light under crowded conditions: Fast growth – allows it to reach the sun quickly in life Long inter-nodes – long elongation allows it to grow up

http://content.answers.com/main/content/img/Gardeners/f0132.jpg http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/images/401/Magnoliophyta/Magnolio

psida/Fabales/Fabaceae/Pueraria_thunbergiana/Vine_MC_.html

http://science.howstuffworks.com/cabbage-info.htm

© Project SOUND

Twining habit: plant senses the supporting structure – differential growth explains the twining

Specialized structures: Tendrils – typical of Pea family, grapes Hold-fasts – typical of Ivy, Virginia Creeper, other wall-climbing vines

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/483149920_2302dd7aac.jpg?v=0

http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection/imagelarge.php?ImageNumber=972&TaxonID=1119&SourcePage=taxon&

© Project SOUND

Native vines for

shady areas

Regular water (Zone 2-3 to 3) Orange Honeysuckle

Other vines from the Pacific Northwest

Occasional water (Zone 2) Other native honeysuckles

Climbing Penstemon

Native Peas (Lathyrus)

http://kinsellandscape.com/Project_Samples/Gardens/GardenArbor1p.jpg

© Project SOUND

The Honeysuckles (Lonicera species)

Arching shrubs or twining vines Family Caprifoliaceae (Honeysuckle

family) Native to the Northern Hemisphere. ~ 180 species, mostly from China (~

100 species); ~ 20 native to N. America.

Common garden vines: Lonicera periclymenum (European

Honeysuckle) Lonicera japonica (Japanese

Honeysuckle, White Honeysuckle) Lonicera sempervirens (Coral

Honeysuckle, Trumpet Honeysuckle)

Many species have sweetly-scented, bell-shaped flowers that produce a sweet, edible nectar.

© Project SOUND

Honeysuckles (Lonicera species)

Lonicera: named for Adam Lonitzer (1528-1586), a German herbalist, physician and botanist who wrote a standard herbal text that was reprinted many times between 1557 and 1783

Foliage of many species used medicinally

Hummingbirds love the flowers !!!!.

The fruit is a red, blue or black berry containing several seeds; in most species the berries are mildly poisonous, but a few have edible berries, and birds will eat most honeysuckle species’ berries.

The foliage is eaten by the larvae of some butterfly & moth species

© Project SOUND

* Orange Honeysuckle – Lonicera ciliosa

© 2008 Matt Below

© Project SOUND


http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Species=ciliosa

© Project SOUND


http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?2874,2877,2879

A plant of the Pacific Northwest – British Columbia to Northern CA and east to Montana

North slopes and creek and river banks, mostly in moist forested areas


© Project SOUND

Orange Honeysuckle -

a twining vine

Size: to 15+ ft long

Growth form: Semi-woody vine/climbing shrub

Creeping, trailing, climbing or twining habit – usually grows through other plants

Old vines can kill trees – kind of like a boa constrictor

Foliage: Medium to dark green, paired

simple leaves

Winter deciduous

Roots: trailing stems will root where they touch the ground

http://www.rainyside.com/features/plant_gallery/nativeplants/Lonicera_ciliosa.html

Gary A. Monroe @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database



© Project SOUND

Flowers are fantastic

Blooms: in spring - usually May-June in our area

Flowers: Usually red-orange; may be

more yellow-orange

Trumpet-shape – typical of the Honeysuckles

In very showy clusters – this plant is a show-stopper in bloom

Hummingbirds love them!!

Berries:

http://www.rainyside.com/features/plant_gallery/nativeplants/Lonicera_ciliosa.html

© 1997 John Game

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/4/40/Lonicera-ciliosa--fruits.JPG

© Project SOUND

Orange Honeysuckle is for shady gardens…

Soils: Texture: just about any

pH: any including slightly acidic (under pines, firs)

Light: light shade to quite shady; this is a forest plant

Water: Winter: can take some flooding

Summer: likes moist soil – Zone 2-3 or even 3

Fertilizer: likes organic amendments/ richer soils

Other: cannot take heat



© Project SOUND

Orange Honeysuckle lights up dark corners

of the garden

As an attractive pot plant

In a woodsy garden – like many of our ‘mature’ gardens

Sprawling over a wall or fence

As a groundcover under trees that need regular water

Any other place that is shady and gets a little regular water

http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/ofp/lon_cil.htm

http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/ofp/images2/lon_cil_0728b.jpg

© Project SOUND

For garden vines, use

a native alternative…

Cape Honeysuckle - Tecomaria capensis

Native to Australia Orange Honeysuckle – Lonicera ciliosa

http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Sp

ecies=ciliosa


© Project SOUND

Throughout the United States and Canada, many other invasive species of vines are choking out native vegetation and harming wildlife.

Some nurseries still sell several of these villains—such as oriental bittersweet, porcelain berry, English ivy and Chinese wisteria—to unsuspecting gardeners.

Most botanists believe that you can help keep this ecological nightmare from getting any worse by planting only native vines.

In the process, you will add eye-catching, flowering plants to your yard that will help you attract birds, butterflies, bees, moths and even some small mammals.

English Ivy – Gardena

Willows Wetland Preserve

© Project SOUND

‘Hate it with a Passion’ vine

Don’t plant it – the Gulf Fritillaries will

get by just fine

© Project SOUND

Invasive alien vines –DO NOT PLANT

Japanese Honeysuckle - Lonicera japonica

Cape ivy - Delairea odorata (Senecio mikanioides)

English ivy, Algerian ivy - Hedera helix & H. canariensis

Bridal creeper - Asparagus asparagoides

Blue Morning-glory - Ipomoea indica

Chinese Creeper; ‘Mile-a-minute’ vine -Mikania micrantha

Passion Vines - Passiflora species

Nasturtium - Tropaeolum majus

Cape Ivy

Bridal Creeper

© Project SOUND

Alien Honeysuckles – the “bad boys” of

invasive vines

Japanese Honeysuckle - Lonicera japonica

Amur Honeysuckle - Lonicera maackii

Very invasive- remove by

cutting, flaming, or burning the plant to root level and repeating on two-week increments until nutrient reserves in the roots are depleted

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Honeysuckle.jpg

© Project SOUND

California honeysuckles are not

aggressive vigorous vines…

It’s the non-native species that completely engulfing chain link fences – and give our native species a bad reputation.

CA native species tend to be more like open shrubs that couldn't quite stand up on their own and needed to hold onto a few of their neighbors.

© Project SOUND

Arches can add mystery –

and increase the ‘size’ - of

small gardens

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lovedaylemon/3710741760/

© Project SOUND

Our two locally native

Honeysuckles

Santa Barbara & Southern Honeysuckles Lonicera subspicata vars. denudata &

subspicata

Purple (Pink) Honeysuckle Lonicera hispidula var. vacillans

© Project SOUND

Pink Honeysuckle – Lonicera hispidula var. vacillans

© 2001 Steven Thorsted

© Project SOUND

A honeysuckle with pink flowers…

Blooms Apr-July

Pink-lavender and white flowers – typical Honeysuckle

Flowers in showy clusters at ends of flowering stalks

Flowers are scented

Provide a good nectar source for hummingbirds, bees & butterflies

http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/hairyhoneysuckle.html

© Project SOUND

* Chaparral Honeysuckle – Lonicera interrupta

© 2008 Chris Winchell

© Project SOUND

* Chaparral Honeysuckle – Lonicera interrupta

Native to foothills from S. OR to AZ and into N. Mexico

Dry slopes, ridges, mixed forest to 6000’

Chaparral, yellow pine forest, often in shade of trees/shrubs

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Lonicera+interrupta

© Project SOUND

Native Honeysuckles are all similar-looking

Size: 6-10+ ft tall & wide

Growth form: Sprawling deciduous

shrub/vine

Plants stout & woody at base – become many-branched above

Long, flexible stems used in basketry

Foliage: Leaves typical for

Honeysuckle – paired, simple, rounded, medium-green

Roots: roots easily where stems touch soil

© Br. Alfred Brousseau, Saint Mary's College http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/socal/honeysi5.htm

© Project SOUND

Flowers are the most

yellow of the natives

Blooms: Mid-spring to mid-summer

Usually May-June in our area

Flowers: Typical Honey-suckle shape

Color is a bright, clear yellow

Many clusters of flowers – showy in bloom

Kids of all ages love to suck the ‘honey’ (nectar) from the flowers

Hummingbird pollinated

Birds love the fruits

© 2008 Chris Winchell

© Project SOUND

Honeysuckles are

relatively easy to

propagate from seed

Remove seeds from fruits

Use fresh seed for best germination – often will need no cold treatment, but test germination with a few seeds

Soak seeds 24 hr before planting

Stored seed then needs cold-moist treatment for 1-2 mo. (use coffee filter; place in open plastic bag in refrigerator – check for germination) Beatrice F. Howitt © California Academy of Sciences

© Project SOUND

Rooting honeysuckle

cuttings is easy!

The best time is when new growth starts to appear in the spring (if there is green growth, you can do itmost anytime of the year)

Cut a length of green, “semi-soft wood" growth from the end of the vine - be sure to get several sets of leaves.

Strip off the leaves nearest the cut end. Leave one or two leaf nodes bare and one or two sets of leaves left on the vine.

At this point you have a couple of options.

Dip the cutting in rooting hormone and place it in damp potting soil or other rooting medium.

Place the cutting in a vase of water and allow the roots to develop - change the water regularly to prevent rot.

You will soon (1-2 weeks) see the new roots forming, and when you have several good roots (an inch or so long) you are ready to plant your new Honeysuckle vine!

© Project SOUND

Chaparral Honeysuckle takes drier conditions…

Soils: Texture: very adaptable – one of

the better for gardens

pH: any local pH

Light: full sun (on coast) to part-shade; excellent in dappled shade

Water: Winter: takes quite wet, including a

little flooding

Summer: drought tolerant (Zone 1-2) but better as Zone 2; can even take Zone 2-3 in well-drained soils

Fertilizer – best with an organic mulch – it’s a Chaparral plant

http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/chaparralhoneysuckle.html

© Project SOUND

Use Chaparral Honeysuckle

instead of L. japonica

Great groundcover on banks

As a flowery accent in mixed hedges/hedgerows

Climbing over an arbor – enjoy the sweet-scented flowers

On a lattice or trellis to hide a ‘less than perfect’ view

As an attractive pot plant

All honeysuckles are great choices for habitat garden

© 2007 Julie Kierstead Nelson


© Project SOUND

The Honeysuckles – consummate

hummingbird plants

Native honeysuckles are mostly hummingbird pollinated, throughout the world

Are known for their fragrance, medicinal qualities, use in basketry and cordage-making and for their beauty

Feed a wide range of living things including hummingbirds, other birds, bees, moths, butterflies and small animals

Some critters even live in their shady hidey places.

© Project SOUND

Can you relate to

this photo?

Challenges: Narrow space

Shady

Damp in winter; drier in summer

Ugly wall

Neighbors close by – need to screen

Poor air circulation

Consider an Edwardian solution – a vine-covered arch

http://www.cheeseslave.com/2008/06/04/update-on-the-growing-challenge/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ammichaels/2549681249/

© Project SOUND

Native Honeysuckles are a great idea for

narrow side yard If your Honeysuckle is to be grown

on a trellis or an arbor, put this support structure in place before planting, to avoid damaging the vine.

Plant Honeysuckle 6-12 in. away from the support to allow enough growing room for developing stems.

Tie vines to their support using strong, stretchy materials that won't cut into growing branches.

Strips of old nylon hosiery work very well.

Loop each tie into a figure 8, with the crossed portion between the stem and the support to keep stems from rubbing or being choked.

http://kinsellandscape.com/Project_Samples/Gardens/GardenArbor1p.jpg

© Project SOUND

Climbing Penstemon - Keckiella cordifolia

http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/courses/img/bot/401/Magnoliophyta/Magnoliopsida/Asteridae/Scrophulariaceae/Keckiella_cordifolia_FL_.jpg

© Project SOUND

Climbing (heart-leafed) Penstemon - Keckiella cordifolia

South and central coasts of CA to N. Baja

In chaparral, woodlands and even forest

Keckiella: after David Daniels Keck (1903-1995), an American botanist known for his work on experimental taxonomy who collaborated with Philip Munz on A California Flora,

cordifolia: in Latin means with "heart-shaped leaves"


© Project SOUND

Characteristics of Climbing Penstemon

A woody vine/ open climbing shrub

Size: usually 3-6 ft long (to 15 ft); fast-growing

Sprawling – often found growing through other plants

evergreen in mild climates with a little watering, deciduous in winter cold or under drought stress.

http://biology.csusb.edu/PlantGuideFolder/KeckiellaCord/KeckiellaCordPage.htm

© Project SOUND

Who could resist such a pretty flower?

Blooms: May-Jul

Flowers: bright orange-red to deep red in clusters – very showy

Excellent summer nectar source:

Hummingbirds Butterflies Bees, etc.

Birds also eat the seed

http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/keck2.htm

© Project SOUND

Tricks for gardening with Climbing

Penstemon

Does best in light shade

Likes any well-drained soil

Probably lives longer with little/no summer water, but it can be kept green with modest waterings

prefers cool roots, so consider mulching with organic mulch

Prune only to remove dead branches or to shape

© Project SOUND

Climbing Penstemon in the garden

Great summer color in dry shady areas –really showy

Good under oaks

Excellent habitat

On slopes

As backdrop for other plants – attractive leaves with some summer water

http://www.marrsandersen.com/Stuff/California-plants/Page1.html

Can be trained to “climb” if given support

© Project SOUND

Outdoor activities – important in Edwardian

(and our) gardens

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43688219@N00/3934056099

Many appropriate chairs and

benches are readily available

© Project SOUND

When styles clash, the

results aren’t pretty

Edwardian Rustic; substantial

looking Natural colors for wood,

metal hardscape Natural-looking/

informal plantings

Victorian Refined; more delicate-

looking – often embellished

Hardscape often painted (white or pastels)

Geometric/formal plantings

http://www.heartlandhomeandgarden.com/

http://s7.kmart.com/is/image/Sears/07114609000?hei=500&wid=500&op_sharpen=1

© Project SOUND

Accessories, hardscape all should carry

out the theme

This was true in 1910 and is still

a good rule today!

http://www.kellscraft.com/AmericanGardens/americangarden16.html

http://inandoutdoors.com/gardenbenches/

If your garden has a rustic/Edwardian

look, then arbors, trellises, furniture

should reflect this

© Project SOUND

* Roving Sailor/Climbing Snapdragon – Maurandella antirrhiniflora

Patrick J. Alexander @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

© Project SOUND

* Roving Sailor – Maurandella antirrhiniflora

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?7177,7383,0,7384

Grows in desert mountains/ foothills of the Southwest – Texas to N. Mexico

In S. Ca – grows in Providence Mtns., San Bernardino Co.

Bluffs, dry stony slopes, desert flats, washes

http://www.desertmuseumdigitallibrary.org/public/img.php?t=detail&id=ASDM01072

© Project SOUND

Roving Sailor is a nice, refined little vine

Size:

4-10 ft long & wide

Growth form: Semi-woody vine/sprawling shrub in

our area – grown as an annual in cold-winter areas – fast growth

Sprawls and twines through/over other plants (or trellises, etc.)

Foliage: Fresh, medium to dark green

(woodsy looking with water) – to gray-green (in hot, dry conditions)

Dainty – leaves somewhat ivy-like but more attractive shape

Dies back almost to ground in winter (or cut back if needed)

G.A. Cooper @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=maan9

© Project SOUND

Flowers are a

designer’s dream

Blooms: From spring to fall; often

from April-Oct. with a little summer water.

Blooms open over long bloom season – excellent season-stretcher

Flowers: ~ 1 inch – but lots of them

Snapdragon-like appearance

Usually lilac color; natural red-maroon variants

Really showy – but up close

Seeds: tiny, but good germination; will reseed

Patrick J. Alexander @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database © 2008 Aaron Schusteff © 2007 Zoya Akulova

© Project SOUND

Roving Sailor is surprising well suited to

garden conditions…

Soils: Texture: likes a well-drained soil;

sandy soils are great, as are well-drained clays

pH: good for alkali soils

Light: full sun to part-shade; probably does best in dappled shade (under trees or climbing up a trellis)

Water: Winter: rainwater often sufficient

Summer: some supplemental water (Zone 2 or even 2-3) will extend bloom season; drought tolerant

Fertilizer: not needed, but won’t harm

http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/htop_1211484777_460.jpg

Roving Sailor can hide a multitude

of ‘sins’

© Project SOUND

English gardeners have

known for years…

Nice petite vines to climb up poles, fences, trellises

Use it to hide those ugly chain-link fences

Excellent (period-appropriate) climber for an Edwardian/ Craftsman Garden – even in a pot!

Use to attract Buckeye butterflies

Looks delicate – but is a real trooper!

http://www.laspilitas.com/nature-of-

california/plants/maurandya-antirrhiniflora

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/Antirrhinum_filipes_3.jpg

© Project SOUND

Available through traditional seed companies as

Climbing Snapdragon - Asarina antirrhiniflora

‘Mixed’ - available through Thompson-Morgan Seeds

‘Red’ – available through Summerhill seeds and several others

http://www.thompson-morgan.com/seeds1/product/7506/1.html

© Project SOUND

Canyon Pea flowers are a joy to behold

Flowers:

Spring: usually April-June

Color: usually light pink to white; may be lavender; San Diego variant (var. alefeldii ) is

magenta

Flowers look like wild sweetpeas (or even slightly small horticultural varieties)

Sweetly scented

Good for native pollinators: bees, hummingbirds & butterflies

Seed pod:

pink-green & fuzzy, drying to brown

Seeds of Pea family may be toxic if eaten

http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/canyonsweetpea.html


© Project SOUND

Use Canyon Pea like any

Sweetpea

In a fragrance garden

Climbing up fences, trellises or other supports

On ‘natural’ hillsides

Great under oaks, Toyon, other chaparral tree & shrubs

Probably even in large containers


http://www.redshift.com/~bigcreek/fire/fire5/index.html

Locate Canyon Pea where you can enjoy

its flowers & fragrance

© Project SOUND

http://tucsonlandscaping.info/trellis

Not enough space in your tiny garden?

Think creatively!

http://www.container-gardening-made-easy.com/perennial-flowering-vines.html

http://edenmakersblog.com/?tag=low-water-plants

© Project SOUND

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg070356056294.html

Obelisks are four-sided structures that are large at the base and taper as they reach skyward. They may have a finial at the top, where the obelisk comes to a point.

The garden obelisk is made with open weave to allow vines to twine in, out and around. Obelisks allow you to grow certain vines in small places.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v115/HoovB/LateApril/?action=view&current=TuteurAndStairway4699.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v115/HoovB/LateApril/?action=view&current=AlisterSGreyTowerDc1610.jpg

© Project SOUND

* Pride of California – Lathyrus splendens


Native to Peninsular Ranges of Sand Diego Co. and Baja

An uncommon chaparral plant

Generally, the chaparral is low growing with a moderately open canopy; however, it can occur in dense vegetation on north-facing slopes.

Also known as ‘Campo Pea’

© Project SOUND

Pride of California – a perennial Sweetpea

Size: 6-12 ft long

Growth form: Semi-woody perennial

vine/shrub

Long, weak stems – delicate-looking plant

Can climb up or through – has tendrils like many species in the Pea family

Foliage: Leaves typical for peas –

compound leaf with rounded leaflets

Foliage color – usually blue-green

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LASP3

© Project SOUND

A riot of scarlet blooms

Blooms: In spring; usually May-June

in our area

Flowers: One of our most splendid

native plants – like the best Sweetpea

Flower shape – Pea-type

Brilliant carmine color – darken with age

Tropical-looking; attract hummingbirds & butterflies

Seeds: Typical peas in a pod

J. E.(Jed) and Bonnie McClellan © California Academy of Sciences

© Project SOUND

Pride of California – a bit difficult to grow…

Soils: Texture: well-drained soils a

must; sandy/rocky soils best

pH: any local

Light: Part-shade – dapple shade is

perfect

Water: Winter: supplement if

necessary

Summer: Dry – Zone 1-2 best; water perhaps 1-2 times in summer

Fertilizer: none


© Project SOUND

Pride of CA would make

a nice vine for sandy

soil gardens

Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find a source for seeds or plants

Your mission (if you choose to accept it): find us a source


© 2008 Dr. James D. Adams

© Project SOUND

Don’t be fooled…

It is important to distinguish this species from Lathyrus latifolius 'Splendens' which is sometimes sold under the same name.

The latter is merely a selected form of the common European 'Everlasting Pea'.

The true species is uncommon in cultivation and difficult to obtain.

http://chestofbooks.com/flora-plants/flowers/Western-Wild-Flowers/Pride-Of-California-

Lathyrus-Splendens-Crimson-Spring-California.html

© Project SOUND

Lessons from Edwardian Gardens

1. Follow Mother Nature; informal, ‘natural’ style for restful urban gardens

2. Create pleasing places for outdoor living

• Shady and sunny places • Places to sit/dine/etc.

3. Use native plants creatively – they are pretty, ‘old fashioned’ and don’t require as much water, care

4. Use valuable space to the max: use fore-, mid- and background-space

http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/gertrude_jekyll_garden_glebe_house_museum


http://www.gardenvisit.com/assets/madge/gertrude_jekyll_glebe_house/600x/gertrude_jekyll_glebe_house_600x.jpg

© Project SOUND

What is it about your garden that makes it a

good ‘grandmother’s/grandfarther’s garden’?

http://www.junedudley.com/images/grandmother%27s-garden432v.jpg

http://www.wickedlocal.com/mansfield/archive/x639771749/This-is-not-your-grandmother-s-garden-club

classsic climbers 2010

Education

project sound http

gar project sound

com20080801sagt project

creativity project sound

available project sound

edwardian gardeners

roots of edwardian gardens

dormant vines