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Classic arch-topbookcases

PROJECT PLAN

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36 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

ClassicClassicbookcasesbookcasesArches can be stunning in any room—

both in how they look and in how diffi-cult they are to build. But the bookcasesyou see here are stunning only on the

first count. Why? The curved top sections and other decorativemoldings are made of high-density polyurethane and come justas you see them; all you do is cut them to length and install them.

The rest of the bookcase is designed to go together simplytoo. It’s basically a big box with a store-bought cabinet for thebottom, a pair of upright “sandwiches” for the sides and a pairof frames for the top. The exposed surfaces and shelves of the

bookcases are made of 1/2-in.-thick medium-density fiber-board (MDF), a material that’s inexpensive, easy to work withand a dream to paint.

This is a project even those with moderate do-it-yourselfskills can tackle successfully. And if you stick with it, you canbuild and install both bookcase units in a weekend. We used apower miter saw and pneumatic nailer, but you could use handtools. If you have access to a table saw, you can save time byusing it to cut the MDF panels to width instead of the circularsaw method we used. All said and done, each of our bookcasescost about $400, not including the base and cornice moldings.

arch-toparch-top

Molded millwork, off-the-shelf cabinets and inexpensive MDFmake these classic-looking bookshelves a snap by Spike Carlsen

37 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

classic bookcase

1-1/4” BRADS 1/2” MDF

1/2” MDF

1x3 TOP FRAMES

CORNICE MOLDING

KEYSTONE

ARCH PANEL

END CAP

1/2” x 1-1/2” STIFFENERS

3/4” MDF

1x3 CABINET TOP

PANEL MOLDING

2” DRYWALL SCREWS

1/2” MDF

CABINET DOORS

BASE MOLDINGPLINTH BLOCKSIDE MOLDING1x6 CABINET BASE

1x4 UPRIGHT

11-1/2” DEEP x 15” HIGH x 36” WIDE CABINET

M

L

R

Q

N2

N1

P

B

U

G

G

F

X

Y

S

Z

K

H

J

F

V

T

A

C

E D W

Figure A Bookcase details

Cutting List (per bookcase)KEY PCS. SIZE & DESCRIPTION

A 4 1/2" x 11-1/4" x 94" upright side panel

B 4 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 10-3/4" upright base and top

C 4 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 92-1/2" upright front and back

D 2 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 36" cabinet base, front and back

E 2 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 10" cabinet base, sides

F 6 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 36" cabinet top and upper frames, front and back

G 6 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 10" cabinet top and upper frames and sides

H 1 11-1/2" x 15" x 36" cabinet

J 1 1/2" x 13-1/2" x 45" top face panel

K 2 1/2" x 4-1/2" x 80-1/2" MDF upright face panels

L 1 1/2" x 11-3/4" x 36" cabinet top

M 1 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 37" cabinet top front molding

N1 1 22" façade right arch

N2 1 22" façade left arch

P 1 façade keystone

Q 2 façade end caps

R 2 1-3/16" x 3-3/4" x 62-1/4" façade legs

S 2 1-9/16" x 3-3/4" x 7-1/2" façade plinth blocks

T 8 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 9-1/4" side moldinghorizontals

U 4 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 60-1/4" side mold-ing verticals (upper frame)

V 4 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 13-1/4" side mold-ing verticals (lower frame)

W 1 1" x 4-3/8" x 37" front base molding

X 6 3/4" x 10-3/4" x 35-7/8" MDF shelves

Y 12 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 35-7/8" shelf stiffeners

Z 1 1/2" x 11-1/4" x 36" bookcase ceiling

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007 38

As a carpenter, I love working with real,honest-to-goodness wood. But even I grewfond of polyurethane moldings the more Iworked with them. Crafting the archesfrom wood would have required advancedwoodworking tools and skills or writingone very large check. But the premadearches we used installed quickly and werereasonably priced. Each pair of arches,along with the center keystone, cost about$90; the end blocks, plinth blocks andmoldings used to finish the vertical legscost an additional $115 per bookcase.

Polyurethane moldings cut like butter.We used a power miter saw equipped witha 60-tooth carbide “finishing” blade, butyou can use a miter box and fine-toothhandsaw with equally good results.

Just as with wood, you need to fill thenail holes with putty, and lightly sand thesurface to remove excess putty and smallirregularities. But once properly prepared,they accept paint smoothly and evenly.

There are drawbacks. Rigid polyure-thane moldings aren’t as hard or as capa-ble of taking a hit as wood moldings. Ifyou have kids who like to play floor hock-ey or a spouse who likes to vacuum enthu-siastically, the base moldings may eventu-ally dent and scratch. Window and doormoldings may also take it on the chinwhen banged by a heavy object.

But for decorative uses, where the mill-work is going to be painted, they’re a greatalternative to wood.

Plan the project and order the piecesThe size of the bookcase is determined bythe size of the cabinet it’s built around. Wechose “ready-to-assemble” frameless cabi-nets 36 in. wide, 15 in. tall and 11-1/2 in.deep (see the Buyer’s Guide, p. 46) at ahome center. You can modify the design tofit different-size cabinets. Since roomheights vary and exact cabinet sizes differby manufacturer, you may need to modifyour dimensions. As you do, remember:n Build your bookcases 2 in. shorter than

your room height; otherwise you can’ttilt them up into place.

n Make sure the back of the cabinet isslightly inset from the back of theuprights; otherwise you’ll have gapswhere the uprights meet the wall.

n Cabinets with protruding face framesneed to be shimmed out on the backside to keep things square.

n You can create side-by-side bookcasesby using “double width” end caps.

Most stock cabinet widths are based on 3-in. increments, and the uprights addanother 9 in. to the overall bookcasedimension. Before you buy anything,make templates to represent the “foot-print” of each bookcase and experimentwith their positions (Photo 1). Adjust thesize of your cabinets as needed.

If you cover an outlet, you’ll need toeither install a box extender so the face ofthe outlet winds up even with the back ofyour cabinet, or cut an oversize hole thatallows you to plug in items without risk ofthe cord rubbing on the edges.

If you have wall-to-wall carpeting,you’ll need to peel back the carpet and padwhile installing the bookcases, thenrestretch the carpet when you’re done. See“Restretch a Carpet,” June ’04, p. 92, formore information. To access this articleonline, go to www.familyhandyman.com.

Measure from floor to ceiling, then sub-tract 2 in. to determine the overall heightof the bookcases. This will allow you tobuild the rough boxes in your shop orgarage, then carry them inside and tiltthem up into place.

A wide range of high-density polyure-thane moldings can be ordered by mail orthrough retailers (see the Buyer’s Guide, p.46). Order well in advance so you have allthe materials you need before you start.

Working withpolyurethane moldings

39 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

classic bookcaseBuild the frameworkBegin by building the 1x4 frames (Figure

A) for the uprights. Build them 2 in. short-er than the floor-to-ceiling measurementand 3/4 in. narrower than the cabinet isdeep. We built 10-3/4-in.-deep frames forour 11-1/2-in.-deep cabinet. Then cut the1/2-in. MDF panels for the sides of the 1x4frames, making them 1/2 in. wider thanthe uprights; ours were 11-1/4 in. wide. Inaddition to hearing protectors, wear a dustmask; MDF dust is super-fine and easilyinhaled. See “Circular Saw Cutting Guide,”Oct. ’04, p. 18, for more information. Toaccess this article online, go to www.fami-lyhandyman.com.

Secure an MDF panel to each side of the1x4 frames (Photo 2) using yellow glueand 1-1/4-in. brads. Set the uprights aside.

Build two boxes—one from 1x6s, theother from 1x3s—the same dimensions asthe top of the cabinet. Drive drywallscrews through predrilled holes to securethe 1x6 frame to the bottom of the cabinetand the 1x3 frame to the top (Photo 3).

Next secure the uprights to the cabinetusing clamps, screws and constructionadhesive (Photo 4). Keep the front edge ofthe uprights 1/2 in. back from the edge ofthe face frame; use a 1/2-in. piece of MDFto ensure proper spacing and shims tohold the parts in proper alignment.

Build two more 1x3 frames the samesize as those you built for the top and bot-tom of the cabinets. Secure one betweenthe tops of the uprights and the other one12 to 14 in. down (or whatever height youwish the lower edge of your arches to be)as shown in Photo 5. Cut and nail MDFto the lower 1x3 frame to create the “ceil-ing,” and across the width of the upperbookcase to create the front surface and“lock” everything together. Finally, install4-1/2-in. MDF strips to finish coveringthe fronts of the uprights.

Install the bookcasesWith a helper, carry the completed boxesinto the room. Measure carefully, then cutout the backs of the cabinets to accommo-date any outlets. Tip the bookcases up intoplace (Photo 6).

Use a level and shims to level the book-cases. You’ll cover any gaps along the floorlater with baseboard molding. Check tosee how the uprights fit against the wall. If

1 Plan ahead. Lay papertemplates on the floor

to help you envision thebest positions for thebookcases. Measure theceiling height; you’ll buildthe bookcases 2 in. short-er so you can tilt theminto place.

2Glue and nail the sidepanels to the 1x4 side

uprights. Keep one edgeperfectly aligned with thefront edge of the frame;let the other side over-hang about 1/2 in.

3Secure the 1x6 frameto the bottom of the

cabinet and the 1x3 frameto the top. When you’reprebuilding the frames,use knot-free 1x3s and1x6s for the front pieces(they’ll be exposed).

1-5/8"SCREWS

12" x 45"TEMPLATE

1/2" OVERHANGAT BACK

BRADNAILER

SIDEPANEL

EDGES FLUSHAT FRONT

PRE-DRILLEDHOLES

KNOTFREE

1x4

1x3 FRAME(TOP OF CABINET)

1x6 FRAME(BOTTOM OF

CABINET)

42 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007

classic bookcase

there are gaps less than 1/8 in., fill themwith caulk. If there are gaps wider than1/8 in., either apply a small molding toconceal the gap or scribe and trim theback flanges of the uprights to fit. Formore information, see “Scribing for aPerfect Fit,” Nov. ’02, p. 29. To access thearticle on-line, visit www.familyhandy-man.com.

Once you’re satisfied with the fit, securethe bookcases in place by driving 3-in.drywall screws through the fasteningstrips and into the wall studs (shown inPhoto 11).

5Build two more 1x3frames. Secure one

frame to the very top ofthe cabinet with drywallscrews, and the otherone at the desired “ceil-ing height” for the cabi-net. Sheathe the face,“ceiling” and legs withMDF (Figure A).

4 Glue and screw theuprights to the cabi-

net. Use a scrap piece of1/2-in. MDF as a guidefor maintaining theproper 1/2-in. setbackbetween the front of theuprights and the face ofthe cabinet.

6Tilt the bookcasesinto position after

making any cutouts toaccommodate existingoutlets. Extend anyfloor-mounted heatducts and registersthrough the front of the 1x6 cabinet base,using elbows and ductextensions. Shim thebase as necessary tolevel the bookcase.Drive screws throughthe fastening strip toanchor it.

1/2" SETBACK

1/2" MDFUPRIGHT

FACE PANEL

1/2" MDF TOPFACE PANEL

FASTENINGSTRIP

CUTOUT FOR OUTLET

FACEFRAME

CEILING

GUIDEBLOCK

SHIMS FORALIGNMENT

CONSTRUCTIONADHESIVE

1x3 UPPERFRAMES

Easy drywall archesWe arched the top of the existingdoor opening so it would lookmore “at home” with the newbookcases. For ease of construc-tion, we used prebuilt arched cor-ners (see the Buyer’s Guide, p. 46).

The corners we purchased were4-3/4 in. thick—wide enough toaccommodate the standard 4-1/2-in. wall thickness plus thethickness of the metal cornerbead around the opening.

To install each arch, apply dry-wall compound to the back sur-faces, “smoosh” it into position,then use four 2-in. drywall screwsto fasten the arches into place.Once the drywall compound hasset, apply self-adhesive meshtape to the seams, Then apply twoto three coats of drywall com-pound to the seams so they blendin with the existing wall surface.

44 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

classic bookcaseInstall the arched facadeAs you install the moldings, keep in mindthat the adhesive does the real work; bradsor nails only hold the molding in placeuntil the adhesive sets. There are two typesof adhesive: Decofix Pro is used to securethe moldings to MDF, drywall or othersubstrate. OracFix Extra is used for mold-ing-to-molding connections.

You can hand-nail the moldings, but you risk damagingthem with any errant hits. A pneumaticnailer allows you to hold the moldings inplace with one hand while driving the fas-teners with the other.

Draw a level line above the opening inyour bookcase (Photo 7) so that when thetops of the arches are aligned with it, thelower edge protrudes into the openingabout 1/4 in. Also mark the center of thebookcase. Hold the top edge of one of thearch halves on the line, center the lowerleg of the arch on the front of the upright,then mark the horizontal leg of the arch1/2 in. shy of your center mark.

Use a miter saw to cut the arch on themark you just made; the “keystone” willeventually cover the small gap. Apply thespecial adhesive to the back edges of thearch, then use your brad nailer to secure itin place. Repeat the same procedure forthe other arch half. When both sides of thearch are in place, install the keystone.

Center an “end cap” below the verticallegs of each arch, then use adhesive andbrads to secure them in place (Photo 8).Cut the plinth blocks to the desired height(we made ours 3-1/2 in. taller than ourbaseboard molding), then use adhesiveand your brad nailer to attach them to theuprights. To complete the arches, measurethe distance between the end blocks andthe plinth blocks, then cut the moldingsthat go between a hair longer to ensure atight fit (Photo 9). Secure them into place.

7Draw a level line foraligning the tops of

the arches. Center the ver-tical leg of the arch on theupright, then mark thehorizontal leg 1/2 in. shyof the center point of thebookcase. Cut the arch tolength, then glue and nail.

8Glue and tack the key-stone in place, then

install the end caps, cen-tered on the fronts of theuprights. Use molding-to-molding adhesive tosecure the end caps to thearches (wear gloves whenusing this). Then usemolding-to-substrateadhesive to secure themto the uprights.

9 Cut the vertical mold-ings to fit tightly

between the lower plinthblocks and the upper endcaps. Support the ends ofthe longer, floppier mold-ings while handling them.Then glue and nail theminto place.

CENTER OFBOOKCASE

OPENING

ADHESIVE

CENTERED

UPRIGHT

ARCHTOP

ENDCAP

PLINTHBLOCK

KEYSTONE

LEVELLINE

Moldings and shelvesWe used a 4-in.-tall cornice molding toconceal the 2-in. gap between the top ofthe bookcase and the ceiling (Photo 10).

DECOFIXPRO

ORACFIXEXTRA

Art Direction • BOB UNGARPhotography • BILL ZUEHLKEIllustrations • FRANK ROHRBACHPhoto Stylist • RENEE McDANIELS

46 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2007 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

classic bookcase

10Install crown or cor-nice molding to

conceal the gap betweenthe top of the bookcaseand the ceiling. Run themolding around the entireroom to give your book-cases a built-in look.

11Cut and install thedecorative side

moldings, as well as thebaseboard moldings.

Buyer’s GuideWe ordered our moldings through the ArchitecturalProducts division of Outwater Plastics (www.arch-pro.com, 800-631-8375) and had them shipped.(Note: As of this date, Outwater is the only compa-ny selling Orac Décor products by mail.) To locatedealers in your area who can order materials foryou, contact the company at www.OracDecorNA.com or (800) 648-4217.

Other companies offering molded millworkinclude Fypon (www.fypon.com, 800-446-3040) and Focal Point Architectural Products (www.focal-pointap.com, 800-662-5550).

“Ready-to-assemble” Mill’s Pride cabinets(W3615) with raised panel doors are available atmost Home Depot stores.

The premade drywall arches (model No. 712)are available through ArchCraft Products (www.cre-ativecorners.net) for $55 per pair plus shipping.

12Fill the open poreedges of the MDF

with drywall compound,let it dry, then sand itsmooth. Lightly sand andround the front corner ofthe bookcase to create aless-likely-to-chip “paintedge.”

FURRINGSTRIP

CORNICE MOLDING

DRYWALLCOMPOUND

SAND FRONTCORNER

FASTENINGSTRIP

Putty, prime and paintThe exposed edges of the MDF near thefront of the bookcase are more porousthan the rest of the panel. Fill these poreswith a light coat of drywall compound, letit dry, then hand-sand the edges smooth(Photo 12). Also, lightly sand the frontcorners to create a slightly rounded “paintedge,” which is less likely to chip than asharp corner.

Prime all MDF surfaces with an oil-based primer; a water-based primer willraise the grain and leave a slightly fuzzysurface. The moldings come alreadyprimed. Finally, paint the bookcase with asemigloss or gloss paint (either latex or oil).Then kick back and admire your work.

The cornice or crown molding, as well asthe base molding around the entire room,gives the bookshelves a true built-in look.Choose the style that best fits your room.

Install “picture frames” of panel mold-ing on the sides of the bookcases (Photo

11), using the same materials and tech-niques. Cut the MDF cabinet top (L) to fit,then glue and nail it to the 1x3 frame onthe top of the cabinet (Figure A). Glueand nail a piece of panel molding (M)across the front of the cabinet to concealthe edge.

We used 3/4-in. MDF for the shelves,then glued and nailed 1-1/2-in. x 1/2-in.pine strips along the front and back edgesfor strength. Then we determined theheight we wanted for our shelves anddrilled holes for the shelf support pegs.