carburator r 1

How to: Remove Fuel Tank, Airbox, Carburetors and Cam Chain Tensioner

This write up was performed on a 2000 R1 .

Fuel Tank & Airbox Tools:

5mm Hex Key10mm Socket Ratchet10mm WrenchPhillips ScrewdriverNeedle nose pliersrag/papertowelsStick or something to prop up the gas tank (approx. 14in. long)*If your going to remove the Cam Chain Tensioner put the bike in neutral now.**Disconnect the battery1. Remove Seat (2 - 5mm bolts)2. Turn Fuel Shutoff valve to Off position (It's located above and toward the front of the rear shock underneath the riders seat.)

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

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3. Remove 5mm bolt


Report this imageAttached Files

3-4 Seat.pdf (231.4 KB, 175 views)

Last edited by shawnj; 09-23-2009 at 12:30 PM.

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11-01-2008, 08:05 PM #2

shawnj Fuel tank continued

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=3711752

I eat my R1

Join Date: Mar 2003Bikes: 2000 R1 Blu/WhtLocation: Leavenworth, KansasPosts: 207

4. Prop up fuel tank 5. Disconnect green Fuel Sender Coupler6. Disconnect Fuel tank Overflow and Breather Hose (Mark which is which)


7. Place rag under the fuel line & disconnect Fuel LineThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/member.php?u=6814

8. Remove 10mm bolt and nutThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

9. Remove Fuel Tank Attached Files

3-5 Fuel tank.pdf (298.5 KB, 125 views)


11-01-2008, 08:27 PM #3

shawnjI eat my R1

Airbox removal

1. Remove 10mm boltThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



2. Disconnect hosesThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


3. Loosen 4 screws (no need to completely remove these)This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

4. Lift off AirboxAttached Files

3-8 Airbox Ignition Coil Plate.pdf (306.5 KB, 115 views)


11-01-2008, 08:30 PM #4

shawnjI eat my R1

Ignition Coil Plate

*Disconnect the battery

1. Remove quick fastnersThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



2. Disconnect Ignition Coil CouplerThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


3. Remove Spark Plug Caps. Pull on the boot, not the cable.This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

4. Lift off Ignition Coil Plate5. Push in on the center of the tabs, remove rubber cover



11-01-2008, 08:32 PM #5

shawnjI eat my R1

Join Date: Mar 2003

Carburator Removal

Remove Fuel Tank , Airbox & Ignition Coil Plate*Make sure the battery is disconnected

Tools Needed:Phillips ScrewdriverNeedlenose Pliers10mm Socket Ratchet3mm Hex KeyRags

1. Disconnect Starter Cable. Loosen the Screw and removethe cable from the carbs.



Bikes: 2000 R1 Blu/WhtLocation: Leavenworth, KansasPosts: 207


2. Remove fuel hose. Place rag under to catch small amount of fuel.This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

3. Disconnect float chamber air vents from the T connector.This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

4. Disconnect throttle position sensor This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

5. Unhook idle adjuster(left side behind the fairing) from bracket by pushing toward the front of the bike. No tools needed here. Then pull the cable up, it stays attached to the carbs.


6. Disconnect throttle cable. There's a couple of ways to do this, either diconnecting from the carburator end or disconnecting from the handlebar. I will show how to do it from the handlebar since I find it to be easier to reattach when installing the carbs back on the bike. Remove two 10mm bolt under the nose fairing.


Remove two phillips screws from the throttle cable housing on the handlebar. Push the dust cover down so the housing can be removed. Remember which cable goes where.


With housing removed

Not now but when your ready to remove the carbs the throttle cable can be pulled from under the nose fairing, through the air intake under the steering head.

7. Use a 3mm hex key to loosen the top hex bolts on the carburator joints. It's impossible to get a good picture of them with the carbs on so this is what they look like after the carbs are removed. Remember you just have to loosen the top ones.


8. Now your ready to remove the carbs. They sit pretty tight so be carefull when pulling them you don't bang anything when they come loose. Here is what they look like with two float chamber vent hoses, idle adjuster and throttle cable attached.


Keep the carbs level as you handle them. There's still gas in them so it will leak out if you tip them. Put some clean paper towels in or cover with a clean rag the intake ports as well as the spark plug holes.


Attached Files6-1.pdf (326.5 KB, 231 views)


11-01-2008, 08:33 PM #6

shawnjI eat my R1

Cam Chain Tensioner removal

If not already put bike in neutral. WARNING: The bike must not be moved with the cam chain tensioner removed IF it's still in gear.

Remove the Seat, Battery, Fuel Tank , Airbox and Carbs.

Tools Needed:8mm closed end wrench10mm closed end wrench3.2mm(1/8") flathead screwdriver (the type you find in electronic repair tool kits




or jewlers kits)3.2mm(1/8") flathead screwdriver bit (refer to pictures below)Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket Yamaha Part# 4FM-12213-00-00 (This is optional, I tore mine cause I didn't know what I was doing the first time. Their only $1.00)



Picture of the gasket

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1. With all the above things removed you should see it on the right side. Loosen the 10mm bolt and remove the two 8mm bolts using the wrenchs. Be careful not to drop or tear the paper gasket. Notice the marking showing what side faces up


Picture of the piston extendedThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

2. To reinstall the cam tensioner remove the 10mm bolt on the end. It has a gasket also. Put the small flathead screw driver in the hole and while pressing down on the end of the piston wind the screw driver clockwise. The piston should stay up inside if you winde it hard enough.


3. With the piston up inside the housing reinstall the cam chain tensioner and gasket, tighten down the two 8mm bolts. Place the small flathead bit so it's seated in the slot and turn it counter clockwise with you fingers, keep tension on the bit because if you did it right the piston will unwind spinning the flathead bit.


4. Reinstall 10mm bolt and gasket. I left the plastic canister unattached and cable tied it off to the side.


Done.

Neutral Switch , Wiring, Assembly(Has nothing to do with removing carbs)

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Follow the blue wire down toward the shock. The assembly sits in frontof the shock.



11-01-2008, 08:34 PM #7

shawnjI eat my R1

Join Date: Mar 2003

Carb Cleaning

I offer this as A way to clean the carbs. This is by no means the definitive way so if anyone has sometime to add please do.

Tools:5mm Hex Key8mm Closed end wrenchFlathead & Phillips screwdriverNeedlenose PliersRubber mallet/hammerSmall can/container (to catch small amount of gas)Qtips & ragsSeafoam (see attached pic at bottom of post)



Bikes: 2000 R1 Blu/WhtLocation: Leavenworth, KansasPosts: 207

Clean the area you will use to work on the carbs. Clean most of the oil and crud off the outside of the carbs.

Place small container under drain hole & loosen 5mm drain bolt. Tip carbs to help drain fuel. Retighten drain bolt, continue for all carbs.


Remove 4 air funnelsThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Flip CarbsThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Remove 3 screws. If this is the first time removing these screws they may be "stuck". Place phillips driver in head and give the end of the screw driver a wack(not too hard) with the rubber mallet to help loosen them.


Remove float bowl. Clean inside of float bowl with Seafoam. Push out float pivot pin, remove float and float needle. Make note of which side is up on the float needle.


Clean inside of carb with QTip and SeafoamThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

To remove main jet place closed end 8mm wrench on main jet holder and use flathead to unscrew main jet. Use flathead to remove pilot jet.


Soak all 4 main jets and 4 pilot jets in Seafoam for several hours or overnight. After soaking the jets blow off extra Seafoam & make sure the holes are unblocked. The pilot jet hole is very small so I used a piece of fishing line and ran it in and out of the hole to loosen any build up.


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Put everything back together. Make sure you don't use superhuman strength when tightening the jets. Flip carbs and remove the vacuum covers, be carefull of the long diaphram springs inside.


Carefully remove diaphram assembly from carbThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Use needle nose pliers to pull out needle jet and the holder. Be careful of the little spring between the needle and holder. Clean off any build up on the needle.

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Using the Seafoam clean off any residue on the inside and outside of the diaphram


Use Seafoam to clean inside of the vacuum chamberThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

After everything is clean and dry, reassemble. Push on the end of the needle to check for movement


Reinstall the jet needle and diaphram assembly back into the vacuum chamber. Align the rubber tab


Make sure the needle enters hereThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

After the vacuum chamber cover is installed check to make sure the piston valve moves smoothly


I did not clean and remove all the Pilot Air Jets . Just did this one for illustration. The two phillips screws have Loctite on them so be carefull not to strip the head when removing.


Reinstall the air funnels

If you sync the carbs here is the location of the 3 adjustment screws(pic #3 below). When the carbs are on the bike it's really hard to see these since they are on the bottom side.(see attached picture below)

To help put the carbs back onto the joints put a small amount of grease (I used General Purpose Lithium) on the area that mates with the joint. (pic #2below)

It's a bit difficult to tell when the carbs are fully seated in the joints so I recommend you check and triple check they are properly seated, would hate to find after you have the bike put back together it doesn't run right because there is a gap. Also make sure once seated you properly tighten the top joint clamps.Attached Thumbnails

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=359084&d=1227319478



Last edited by shawnj; 12-16-2008 at 08:43 AM.

11-03-2008, 02:53 PM #8

bodgeI eat my R1 Join Date: Aug 2008Posts: 121

Something to look at when putting the cct on is how far the old one was extended. When I removed my cct it was extended as far as it would go. If yours is all the way out its time for a manual cct.

11-04-2008, 05:59 AM #9

shawnjI eat my R1


Quote:

Originally Posted by bodge

Something to look at when putting the cct on is how far the old one was extended. When I removed my cct it was extended as far as it would go. If yours is all the way out its time for a manual cct.

Thanks, I didn't know that. Mine extends whenever it's taken out. I'll take another picture with it extended and take a measurement. I'm pretty sure mine is still good, the piston moves in and out smoothly.

- Shawn

11-04-2008, 08:16 AM #10

Net-JesterBraaaaapppp!!

Join Date: Feb 2007

Thank you so much. I am now giddy since this is one of the winter projects I had planned.




http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3713964#post3713964



Bikes: 2K R1, KX125Location: Chesapeake, VaPosts: 2,192

11-04-2008, 08:56 PM #11

NikmotarXMy R1 Eats You

Join Date: Oct 2008Bikes: 2001 Champion edition r1Location: Leesburg, VaPosts: 43

This should definitley be a sticky.. somehow ha~nik

11-07-2008, 06:06 AM #12

Datsun280Time to Ride.

Join Date: Sep 2007Bikes: 2001 Yamaha R1Location: Jefferson, MAPosts: 1,405

Very nice write up__________________2001 R1 - Micron High Mount Pipe, -1 / +2 Sprockets, Ivan's Carb Kit, Acumen Gear Indicator, CRG Bar End Mirror, HVMP Bar Ends, Gregg's Mirror Block Offs, LED Tail Light Integrator, Yamaha Seat Cowl, Motovation Sliders and Spools, Pazzo Shorty Levers, SpeedohealerOther Rides - '02 Ford Focus ZX3, '99 Ford Explorer XLT, '85 Chevy K10 Pickup, '00 Ski Doo MXZ700, '78 Datsun 280Z, '97 Arctic Cat 580EXT

R1-013 `Lucky 13th` Squadron

11-14-2008, 08:34 PM #13






danoodleMy R1 eats me. Join Date: Jun 2008Posts: 6

uhm, where's the fuel shut off valve location?

11-14-2008, 11:32 PM #14

Sal_R1Banned Join Date: Nov 2007Bikes: 02 Matt Black Streetfighter R1Location: LA, CA.Posts: 11,160

Quote:

Originally Posted by danoodle

uhm, where's the fuel shut off valve location?

Under the fuel tank in the first picture!

BTW, Great write-up.

11-17-2008, 01:05 PM #15

KangarooFiGAYs in action ^

Join Date: Apr 2004Location: Bay Area, CAPosts: 33,067

PM Wheat move this to the How-to section. Nice...__________________

Sig courtesy of SpidermanSS 9-15-09

Brothers riding on...Bandrews 10/11Dieyoung69 11/10Vman1300 3/09Gawarrior 6/08Elviswarrior 6/07Crazyclimbr 3/07


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K_flexxx 6/06

11-21-2008, 06:09 PM #16

shawnjI eat my R1


Updated with carb cleaning info.

11-23-2008, 11:01 AM #17

J-SeekzI eat my R1

Join Date: Oct 2008Bikes: 2001 r1, 2006 gsxr600, 1999 r6Location: Nova Scotia, CanadaPosts: 143

yo, my float chamber vent hoses lead to nothing. there is no t connector.. should i replace this? what does it do? thanks again

11-23-2008, 08:56 PM #18






shawnjI eat my R1


I can't say for certain but this is what I believe. Those two connect via the T connector to a plastic canister that has another hose that goes to and joins the fuel tank breather hose via another T connector. The fuel tank breather hose runs down the left side of the bike and ends next to the kickstand. Maybe there is vacuum created inside these tubes by the plastic canister which pulls gas vapors out of the float chamber and fuel tank, or it is a way for gas to exit safely away from the bike in case it tips over. Either way it is not absolutely necessary for the bike to run properly. I personally would try and fix it though.




Last edited by shawnj; 11-24-2008 at 06:09 AM.

11-24-2008, 04:13 AM #19

J-SeekzI eat my R1


what is the missing picture?man this sucks that this guy just raped my bike before i baught it... i was just getting the other hoses out of the way.

11-25-2008, 03:52 PM #20

J-SeekzI eat my R1


i'm looking for the part numbers on bikebandit.com do you know which diagram i should be looking at. i also can't find any info on this in the service manual. any ideas would be appreciated. thanks





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