cable handling

8/3/2019 Cable Handling

1/56

A. How to cut cable to length and prepare for pulling

1. Introductory information

Cables are always shipped on reels with size and type marked on the reel. The reels are set oncable jacks or horses so that they will turn freely. The worker can then reel off cable and cut

to any length desired. Under no condition must the cable be twisted, bent sharply, or kinked.

2. Supplies, tools, and equipment

Proper size and type of cable

Cable jacks or horsesLength of proper size pipe

HacksawScrew driver

Rule

3. Procedure

a. DETERMINE FROM THE BLUEPRINT THE PROPER SIZE AND TYPE OF CABLE

FOR THE RUN.

b. SELECT A CLEAR SPACE IN WHICH TO REEL OFF THE CABLE.

c. ROLL THE REEL OF CABLE TO ONE END OF THE CLEARED SPACE.

1) Put a pipe through hole in the center.

2) Jack up on cable jacks or horses.

3) Put a mark about three feet in front of the reel and from this mark measure off

the desired length.

4) Mark the space off in five-foot lengths.

5) Pull off free end of cable and reel it out to the proper mark.

d. CUT OFF AT THE BEGINNING MARK IN FRONT OF THE REEL. (USE HACKSAW

FOR CUTTING.)

Note: If the cable is to be carried some distance to the job, it should be rolled up again into a

roll and the two ends tied to the roll with a piece of marlin.. On the job it should be unrolledand laid out straight before starting the pull in.

e. PREPARE ONE END OF THE CABLE FOR PULLING IN BY FORCING BACK

SEVERAL INCHES OF THE ARMOR WITH A SCREW DRIVER.

18


2/56

A. How to cut cable to length and prepare for pulling (continued)

1) Cut off the remaining lead and cable with a hacksaw.

f. PULL THE ARMOR BACK OVER THE END AND TWIST TO A POINT IF IT IS TO

BE PUSHED IN.

1) If it is to be pulled in, form the armor into an eye and tie a rope into it.

Note: Small cables are pushed in, and larger cables are pulled in.

4. Illustration

a. The proper method of cutting cable by hand.

19


3/56

B. How to rack cable and strap it in place in cable hanger


All cables in any one run are laid parallel. Special care should be taken not to damage thecable in any way. Small cables may be bent to a radius of two diameters and the larger cables

should be bent to a radius of eight diameters. (See accompanying illustrations.) Regardless ofsize, all the cables in one run must be bent to conform to the largest cable. Do not bend the

cables sharply away from packing or stuffing tubes. (See illustration on page 35, Chapter V.)

They must come through the tube straight for at least one inch before beginning the bend.

Cables must not cross one another.

Overhead View of Cable Run

Side View of Above Cable Run Showing Bend

20


4/56

B. How to rack cable and strap it in place in cable hanger (continued)

21


5/56



Soft-headed hammerWood prybars

Rope or marlin

3. Procedure

a. SKID ONE END OF CABLE. (SEE INFORMATION ON "HOW TO SKIN CABLE"

PAGES 45 - 50 INCLUSIVE.)

1) Enter it into stuffing tube of outlet box.

b. BEGINNING AT ONE END, DETERMINE TAE ORDER IN WHICH CABLE WILL

BE LAID.

c. FORCE ALL THE CABLES UP BETWEEN THE FIRST HANGING LUGS.

1) Bolt hanger into place.

d. CONTINUE ALONG THE RUN UNTIL ALL CABIES ARE IN THE RACKS.

e. START AT THE FIRST HANGER AGAIN AND SEE THAT EACH CABLE CONES

OUT OF ITS STUFFING TUBE STRAIGHT.

1) If any offset is to be made, make it about one inch from the tube.

f. SECURE THE CABLE OR CABLES IN PLACE IN THE FIRST HANGER WITH A

CABLE STRAP FASTENED TO THE HANGER WITH MACHINE SCREWS.

g. IF ANY CABLE OR CABLES BREAK AWAY 1,',ROM THE MAIN RUN, BEND

THEM TO THE PROPER RADIUS FOR THE LARGEST CABLE THE RUN.

h. OFFSETS FOR DECK OR BULKHEAD TUBES SHOULD BE MADE AS IN THE

ABOVE PROCEDURE.

4. Illustrations

The following are some types of hangers used in marine wiring; these include Section 1--single racks, and Section 2--double and triple racks (as required by specification of the job).

22


6/56


a. Section 1

23


7/56


24


8/56


25


9/56


26


10/56


b. Section 2

27


11/56


28


12/56


29


13/56


30


14/56


31


15/56

C. How to form and strap cable

1. Objectives

a. To point out the factors to be considered in forming and strapping cable.

b. To show how to form and strap cable.


After all cables in a particular rack have been pulled in and racked, the cable is ready to form

and strap.


Rubber mallet

Channel locks

Screw driver

Drift

6" crescent wrench

Pry

Straps

Machine screws (if clearance holes are used)

Nuts

Drill (either a tap size or clearance drill for bolt that is to be used. If straps are to be bolted,use clearance drill.)

Rope, 6 feet and 3/8 inches long (if cable is larger than 3/0)A piece of hard wood 16 inches long, 3/4 inches thick, and 3 or 4 inches wide, which is

tapered on one end.

4. Procedure a. ASCERTAIN FROM WHICH POINT THE STRAPPING IS TO BESTARTED.

1) Strapping may be started at some given point and strapped both directions from

the point, or may be started at one end of the run and strapped through to the other

end.

2) Never start strapping from both ends and work toward the center, for this

procedure would cause an accumulation of slack, and there would be no possibility

of disposing of it.

32


16/56

C. How to form and strap cable (continued)

b. DRILL HOLES IN SPREADER TO SECURE STRAPS.

1) See that the holes are located in such a manner that when the strap is fastened

the cable will lie in a straight line.

Note: In illustration above of wrong method the holes are not drilled in the proper

line; therefore the cable is not lying straight. Before cinching a strap tight, allwaves in the cable should be worked out.

c. LOOK AT CABLE RACK FROM THE SIDE.

1) Waves illustrated below will always be apparent.

2) These waves can be worked out by tapping with the rubber mallet on the peak

of the bend.

3) In some instances it is necessary to hold a flat board against the opposite side ofthe cable in order to make the cable flex. The 16" hard wood will generally suffice.

d. THE SLACK GAINED IN THIS PROCESS MUST BE WORKED IN THE DIRECTION

THE STRAPPING IS BEING DONE.

e. WAVES IN THE HORIZONTAL PLANE MUST ALSO BE WORKED IN THE

DIRECTION THE STRAPPING IS BEING DONE.

1) At this point, if the rack has some cables that are a great deal more rigid than

others, it is best to shape the rigid cables first.

2) If the lighter cables are straightened first, they are likely to be pushed out of

shape in the process of shaping the stiffer cables.

33


17/56


3) Because there are a number of cables side by side in the rack, it is not practicalto try to get the waves out by means of the rubber mallet alone.

f. USE TAPERED END OF HARD WOODWORKED BETWEEN THE CABLE.

1) Do the hammering on the wood.

2) If the cable to be straightened is the third or fourth cable from the outside, do

not hammer on the outside cable to straighten it. This may damage the outside

cable before you straighten the other cable.

3) Never hammer a cable hard enough or long enough in one place to flatten it,

because this might result in serious damage to the insulation and sheathing as well

as ruin the appearance of the job.

4) For the same reason, do not use a metal-faced hammer.

g. A GOOD BEND SHOULD BE MADE IN THE CABLE WHEN A POINT IS

ENCOUNTERED WHERE THE CABLE IS TURNING INTO THE RACK OR OUT OFIT.

1) A bend with a radius equal to eight times the diameter of the cable should bemade.

2) If there are different sized cables, the stiffer cables should be shaped first and

the lighter cables shaped to fit the stiffer cables.

3) The bend should be shaped in such a manner that it does not distort the shape in

the rack. (See the following illustrations.)

34


18/56


Right procedure

Wrong procedureBend throws cable out of line before it leaves rack.

Wrong procedureBend is too abrupt. It is likely to damage insulation or

armor. It does not show neat workmanship.

h. PUT AT LEAST ONE STRAP ON THE BRANCH RUN TO HOLD SHAPE OF BEND

WHEN COMPLETED.

1) Continue one strapping of the main run unless instructed differently.

i. WHEN ENCOUNTERING A BULKHEAD, PASS THE CABLES BEYOND IT

THROUGH THE STUFFING TUBES.

1) Shape from the last hanger to tube in such a way that the cable is on the same

plane as the tube.

Right Wrong

35


19/56


Note: In illustration showing wrong method, the cable, in entering the tube soabruptly, does not lend itself to easy access of the tube for packing, nor does it

permit proper finishing of packing tube with white lead.

2) Along the path of the cable there may be places where one or more cables are to

go through the deckhead inside of kickpipes. Never assume that any cable will beall right in any kickpipe that is of proper size, for invariably there is a definite

cable to enter a specific kickpipe.

. USE A ROPE OR PRY WHERE A BEND IS TO BE MADE ON HEAVY CABLE.

1) This will make the process much easier. The method of applying the pry or rope

will depend upon prevailing conditions.

k. CONTINUE THIS PROCESS UNTIL CABLE IS STRAPPED FROM ONE

EXTREMITY TO THE OTHER.

1. CABLE MUST ENTER KICKPIPE STRAIGHT.

1) Cable that breaks out of a kickpipe must be kept straight for about 3 or 4 inches;

then it should break against the bulkhead. (See illustration below.)

36


20/56

D. How to pack tubes

1. Objectives

a. To point out factors to be considered in the packing of tubes

b. To show how to pack tubes


The packing of tubes consists of few details, but is in itself a very important job.

In most instances the packing of a tube calls for a water-tight job.


Channel locks

HammerPacking toolKnife or pliers

Improvised fishing tool or screw driver

White leadPacking

4. Procedure

a. BACK PACK-NUT OUT OF TUBE AND FASTEN ON CABLE, OUT OF THE WAY.

b. LIFT OUT PACKING RING.

Note: This usually can be accomplished by hooking with a narrow-bit screw

driver. If the ring fits too closely around the cable, it may be necessary to flatten anend of a piece of wire and use it for a fishing tool.

c. AFTER THE RING HAS BEEN FISHED OUT, FASTEN IT OUT OF THE WAY.

Note: The tube is now ready for packing. The size of the packing will be governed

by the size of cable and tube. In most cases 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch packing is used.

d. MEASURE LENGTH OF THE PACKING TO BE USED BY PUTTING ONE TURN

AROUND THE CABLE.

1) Cut this turn about 1/16 inch shorter than the circumference of the cable.

Note: If the packing is cut the same length as the circumference of the cable, the

ends will lie as shown in illustration.

37


21/56

D. How to pack tubes (continued)

This creates a condition that makes it almost impossible to start the pack-nut whenthe proper amount of packing is in the tube.

When the packing is cut slightly short, the ends will lie flat as shown below.

If the proper size of packing is used there will be room for two to three rings of

packing in each tube.

e. PUT EACH RING OF PACKING IN SEPARATELY BY MEANS OF HAMMER AND

PACKING TOOL.

f. CUT PACKING WITH EITHER A KNIFE OR PLIERS.

g. PLACE PACKING IN SUCH A WAY THAT THE CUT ENDS OF ANY TWO RINGS

ARE NOT TOGETHER.

Note: When the packing tool is being used, great care should be taken to prevent

damaging of the threads on the inside of the tube.

h. PUT PACK RING IN POSITION AFTER THE PROPER AMOUNT OF PACKING HASBEEN PLACED.

38


22/56


Note: The starting of the pack-nut can be made much easier if the pack ring is set by driving

with the packing tool and hammer. Care must be taken in starting the pack-nut in order that

the threads are not crossed. If nut tightens with two or three twists of the nut, one mayassume that the threads are crossed and the nut should be backed off and started over. The

threads are fine; as they are made of brass, they damage very easily. A pair of channel lockpliers is a good tool to use for tightening the pack-nut.

If the proper amount of packing is used in filling the tube, the nut should be tight before it

screws all the way down. (See illustrations below.)

There should be 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch space between nut and tube when the pack-nut is tight

on the packing. (See illustration.)

If the nut is tight on tube it is impossible to tell whether nut is tight against packing or tube.

39


23/56


i. AFTER THE PACK-NUT IS TIGHT, FILL GROOVE BETWEEN NUT AND CABLE

WITH WHITE OR RED LEAD. THIS WILL MAKE A WATERTIGHT JOB.

5. Illustrations

The following illustrations show various types of stuffing tubes used in marine electrical

wiring:

40


24/56


Deck and Bulkhead Flanges

41


25/56


42


26/56


Stuffing Tube Terminal Tube

43


27/56


44


28/56

E. How to skin cable


The outside sheath of cable must be removed before the individual wires can be terminated.Care must be taken to cut the cable the proper length.

Caution: It must not be cut too short.


HacksawRule

Line or side-cutter pliersCable-skinning tool (patented or linoleum knife)

Friction tapeScrew driver

3. Procedure

a. ARMOR FABRIC-COVERED CABLE

1) Wrap a turn or two around the cable to serve as a marker and to keep the armorfrom fraying.

2) Cut through the armor.

3) Do not cut too deep.

4) Lift armor at cut with screw driver and strip off by grasping at cut and pullingtowards terminal end. (See illustration.)

5) Make a cut around the cable with the knife about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch from thearmor. This cut should be no more than two-thirds through the fabric.

6) Pull the skinning knife or tool lengthwise of the cable and skin out the wires.

Sometimes the wires can be skinned out for a few inches at the end and pulled in

opposite directions. (See accompanying illustrations.)

45


29/56

E. How to skin cable (continued)

Note: Do not make the cuts too deep as it is very easy to nick the insulation on the

wires.

b. ARMOR LEAD-COVERED CABLE

1) With the skinning tool, ring the lead sheath about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch from thearmor and split towards the end.

2) Make another split about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch from first split. This forms a strip

running lengthwise of the cable.

3) Break the lead at the ring by moving back and forth.

4) Pry up the strip with a screw driver and pull out with pliers.

5) Sometimes the lead may be taken off with one split as shown in illustration

below. Start the opening with. a screw driver.

46


30/56


Note: Do not cut through the armor as this may injure the wire underneath.

c. UNWIND THE FABRIC TAPE UNDER THE LEAD.

1) Cut off jute packing at the end of the lead or fabric sheath. (See illustration.)

This jute is placed in the cable to make it hold its round shape and to serve as

protection.

47


31/56


d. OTHER TYPES OF ARMORED CABLE ARE HANDLED IN MUCH THE SAME

WAY AS DESCRIBED.

e. DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKINNING TOOLS ARE ILLUSTRATED BELOW:

Cable Skinning Knife

Tool for Ringing and

Stripping Marine Cable

48


32/56


End View

Side View

Cable Skinning Tool (2 Views)

49


33/56


f. A STANDARD-TYPE MARINE ARMOR CABLE, CUT SECTIONALLY TO SHOW

CONSTRUCTION, IS ILLUSTRATED BELOW:

50


34/56

F. How to serve and lace cable


Any cable that terminates in the open and is therefore subject to damage should be served orlaced, or both. In open switchboards it is desirable to insulate the cables by serving from the

point of entry to the terminal lugs and laceing it into a form. Varnished cambric insulation,and types of insulation that may unwind and leave the conductor bare, should be served for

protection.


Diagonal pliers

Lacing twineTape

3. Procedure

a. PREPARE THE CABLE AS DESCRIBED IN SKINNING CABLE.

b. LAY ONE END OF LACING TWINE ALONG THE CABLE.

1) Wrap back the cable from the wire towards the armor and over it.

2) Be sure the twine is held tight. (See illustration.)

c. DOUBLE BACK THE EXCESS TWINE THAT WAS LOOPED UNDER THE

WRAPPING IN ORDER TO FORM A LOOP.

1) Take five or six more tight wraps and run the end through the loop.

2) Pull the loop under the wraps until the end is held securely. (See illustration.)

3) Tape wrapped under serving helps to make a smooth job.

51


35/56

F. How to serve and lace cable (continued)

d. VARNISHED CAMBRIC INSULATION IS SERVED IN THE SAME WAY AS

ORDINARY CABLE. (SEE ACCOMPANYING ILLUSTRATION.)

e. LACING CABLE FORMS IS ACCOMPLISHED BY A LOCK STITCH AS SHOWN IN

ILLUSTRATION BELOW.

1) The starting tie is two half hitches taken around the line.

2) Do not use a half hitch for lacing as this tie is apt to come loose. (Seeillustration.)

3) The accompanying illustration shows a typical form with conductors broken out

for termination.

52


36/56

F. How to serve and lace cable (continued)

4) The illustration below shows how cable is laced in a panel.

Note: Tape can be used for lacing. (Sometimes it is required.)

53


37/56

G. How to connect and hook up cable

1. Objectives

a. To slow the necessity of tight and solid connections

b. To show the proper method of preparing wire for soldering

c. To make good electrical connections


The process of connecting wires together or connecting lugs to wires is done by soldering. Itis also done with solderless connectors or lugs. Either method is satisfactory and the one used

depends upon job specifications and material furnished.


Presto torch or plumber's furnaceSolder pot and ladles

Cloth or pad for wipingKnife

8" crescent wrenchAllen wrench

Terminal strip

Assorted cable--stranded and solid with various typesof insulation

SolderFlux

Solder type lugsSolderless type lugs

Solderless connectors

4. Procedure

a. REMOVE ALL PARTICLES OF RUBBER, INSULATION, DIRT, OR FOREIGN

MATTER THAT MAY BE ON THE SURFACE OF THE BARE WIRE AFTER THEWIRE HAS BEEN CUT TO PROPER LENGTH AND SKINNED.

Note: Do not handle the bare wire any more than necessary, as any oil or grease from thehands or gloves that gets on the surface of the wire before soldering may result in a poorly

soldered connection. The wire must be thoroughly clean and bright; if necessary, it should bescraped.

b. JOIN WIRES TO BE SPLICED AND SERVE AS PREVIOUSLY SHOWN.

c. SPREAD THIN COAT OF FLUX OVER ENTIRE SPLICE.

d. USE WIRE SOLDER IF A PRESTO TORCH IS USED. (SEE ILLUSTRATION

BELOW.)

54


38/56

G. How to connect and hook up cable (continued)

Note: The lineman's outfit as shown in the above illustration is a combination of

soldering copper and open-flame torch stem with an interchangeable torch handle

and a handle for carrying an MC Tank. This outfit answers all requirements--

soldering, brazing, and splicing on wire, cables, transformers, switchboards,

generators, and lighting fixtures.

1) Heat splice carefully and thoroughly.

2) When the wire solder upon contact with splice will run without the flametouching the solder, the splice is hot enough to apply solder.

e. FEED THE SOLDER INTO THE SPLICE ON ALL SIDES.

1) Keep the flame constantly on the joint until the splice is thoroughly saturated

with solder.

f. TURN OFF TORCH AND WIPE OFF ANY EXCESS SOLDER WITH PAD OR CLOTH

WHILE STILL HOT.

g. INSPECT SOLDERING JOINT WHEN FINISHED TO RE SURE IT IS THOROUGHLYSOLID AND TIGHT.

Note: The full size of wire must always be maintained. Never remove any strands

of the wire to accommodate a connector or lug. If necessary, get a larger connectoror lug to fit the full size of the cable used.

If a plumber's furnace is used, heat bar solder in pot. Splice is prepared as above

and flux applied. Two ladles are used. The solder is

55


39/56


poured over the splice from one ladle and the other ladle held below to catchsolder. The solder must be poured over splice several times to insure thorough

heating of the wire. Determine by observation when the splice is thoroughlyimpregnated with solder and wipe off excess solder while still hot. Inspect work

carefully.

Solder-type lugs (see illustration) should be of proper size to accommodate the full

size of the cable to be used. Cable should be skinned so that it will fit into the lug

recess as deeply as possible; it also should be thoroughly cleaned and scraped.

h. HOLD LUGS FIRMLY IN A VERTICAL POSITION.

1) Apply a small amount of flux in recess of lug and apply flux to bare wire.

i. APPLY HEAT FROM TORCH TO SIDE OF LUG AND INSERT WIRE SOLDER

UNTIL ALMOST FULL.

1) Put bare wire into recess of lug, while keeping lug hot. 2) Keep heat on lug for

several seconds.

. REMOVE WIRE TO SEE IF IT IS THOROUGHLY TINNED AND SATURATED

WITH SOLDER.

1) When it has reached this state, apply heat again to lug and add more solder tofill recess of lug.

2) Insert tinned wire and keep flame on lug until all solder visible is in a liquid

state.

k. REMOVE FLAME AND WIPE ANY EXCESS SOLDER AWAY IMMEDIATELY.

56


40/56


1. HOLD BOTH LUG AND WIRE FIRMLY UNTIL SOLDER COOLS.

1) Any movement of wire or lug during the cooling period will result in a poor

electrical connection.

Note: The cooling can be speeded up by the application of a wet cloth or brush.

Solderless lugs and connectors of many types (see accompanying illustration) are

now in general use, and the same care in preparing and cleaning the wire is

necessary. The full size of the wire must be maintained; the nuts, set screws, and

Allen screws must be tightened as much as possible to insure a good electricalconnection.

A loose or poor electrical connection may be caused by a poor soldering job, dirty

or greasy wire, or solderless lugs or connectors which are not properly fitted or

tightened. This usually results in a high-resistance joint or in a partial or an

intermittent open circuit, both of which are sometimes very difficult to locate. The

importance of clean wire, proper soldering, and the making of tight connections,

therefore, cannot be treated lightly.

Connecting the lug to the terminal is usually done with a nut or locknut.

Caution: Terminal studs and nuts should be checked and made tight before

attaching lugs as they sometimes work loose in shipping.

After making sure that whole assembly is tight, lug may be attached to terminal

and terminal nuts tightened.

57


41/56


Solderless Lugs

H. How to weld a pad


A supply of pads of the proper size

Screw driver

PliersHammer

Rod 2' long, with screw (of same thread as the pad) welded on one endGoggles (dark glass)

GlovesLeather sleeves

2. Procedure

a. OBTAIN PADS FROM THE ELECTRIC SHOP.

1) Ask your leaderman to tell you the size of the pads to be used.

2) Estimate the number of pads needed by counting the places on the job which are

marked in white chalk. These marks are usually made by a dot, or by an x with acircle.

3) Obtain requisition from your leaderman to secure the pads from the electrical

supply shop.

b. DETERMINE WHERE TO PUT THE PADS.

58


42/56

H. How to weld a pad (continued)

1) Check over job to be done. All installations are laid out ahead of time by alayout man, and white chalk marks will show the location of all pads to be welded.

c. HAVE WELDING FOREMAN FURNISH A TACKER.

1) Ask your leaderman what procedure to follow in securing a welder. He will

usually take care of this himself; if not, he will advise you where to get one.

d. EXPLAIN TO WELDER HOW THE PAD IS TO BE WELDED.

1) To assure a level surface tack-weld the pad on all four sides before welding.

2) The weld should extend all around the pad.

Note: The top of the bead should be below the surface of the pad in order that this

surface be left smooth. Should the bead extend above the surface of the pad, the

cable will not strap in place as it should and the projecting bead is likely to damagethe cable. (See following illustrations.)

Perspective View of a Correctly Welded

Pad on the Bulkhead of a Ship

59


43/56


End View of a Correctly Welded

Pad on the Bulkhead of a Ship

Side View of a Correctly Welded Pad on the Bulkhead of a Ship

e. ASSIST WELDER BY HOLDING THE PAD IN PLACE WHILE HE TACKS THE PAD

TO THE METAL OF THE SHIP.

1) Assist the welder in order to promote speed and to insure that pads are welded

on straight. The welder is unable to see the pad after he pulls his hood down over

his face.

f. WATCH WELDING CAREFULLY TO SEE THAT ALL PADS ARE WELDED ON

STRAIGHT AND THAT NO WELD IS ALLOWED TO GET INTO THE THREADS OFTHE PAD.

60


44/56


1) Make sure the pads are straight; if they are not straight, cable will not fitproperly.

2) Keep threads in the pad free from weld; otherwise screw will not fit.

3) If pad is damaged while welding, have the chipper chip the damaged pad offand weld a new pad in its place.

g. HAVE WELDER HIT EACH PAD HE WELDS WITH HIS HAMMER.

1) Do this to make sure that the weld is a good one and that the pad will not comeoff when the cable is strapped on.

h. SEE THAT ALL PADS ARE WELDED ON IN A STRAIGHT LINE.

1) Strive to have all installations done as neatly as possible.

I. How to secure a power panel to foundation


2 wrenches

Rule

Level

Declevity board

6 bolts (size per blueprint)

6 nuts (size per blueprint)

6 lockwashers (size per blueprint)Power panel

2. Procedure

a. SECURE BLUEPRINT AND PANT, TO BE MOUNTED.

1) Secure blueprint from shop's print man.

2) Secure panel from electrical storekeeper.

a) Panel is used to safely tap the feeder.

b) Branches are connected to one side of circuit breakers and feeder to the

other side.

c) Panel is needed to safely feed branch circuits and protect other circuitsif trouble develops in one.

b. CHECK THE PANEL MOUNTING STRAPS, FOUNDATION, AND PRINT FOR


45/56

MOUNTING HOTRS.

61


46/56

I. How to secure a power panel to foundation (continued)

1) Measure distance between holes on panel and foundation to see if they areequal. Compare these dimensions with note on print. They should all agree.

2) Use this method because it is both rapid and workable.

c. OBTAIN WRENCHES AND MOUNTING BOLTS, NUTS, AND WASHERS.

1) Obtain wrenches from tool room.

2) Obtain mounting bolts, nuts and washers on order from warehouse.

3) Determine size of bolts, nuts and lockwashers from blueprint.

d. MOUNT PANEL AND PLACE BOLTS IN TOP HOLES.

1) Place panel against foundation in such a manner that bolts slip through top holes

of panel and foundation.

2) Place lockwashers and nuts on these top bolts so panel will not tip or fall.

e. PLACE LOCKWASHERS AND NUTS ON ALL BOLTS.

1) Use lockwashers to lock nuts on bolts.

2) Place lockwashers on bolt after bolt has passed through panel strap holes and

foundation holes.

f. TRUE UP PANEL AND TIGHTEN BOLTS.

1) Use declevity board and level to true up or straighten panel on foundation.

2) Do not tighten up all the way on one bolt first. Make a few turns on each boltuntil all are firm and tight.

g. CHECK PANEL POSITION WITH PRINT.

1) Take rule and measure all points that are detailed in print.

h. RETURN TOOLS TO SHOP AND PRINT TO RACK.

1) Return tools to tool room and receive signed slip from tool keeper.

2) Return prints to shop's print man and receive slip you signed.

62


47/56

I. How to secure a power panel to foundation (continued)

3) Keep close watch on signed slips as they are important.

i. REPORT COMPLETED PANEL JOB TO FOREMAN.

1) The job is not finished until your report is made. The foreman will determine inadvance at what stage of the job a report is to be submitted. When this point is

reached, a written or verbal report should be made immediately to the foreman or

his assistant.

J. How to put a strap on a cable (drill and tap)


Hammer

Center punch

Air drill, or electric drill

13/64" taper shank drill bit or straight shank drill bit1/4" - 20 starting tap1/4" - 20 finishing tap

A small amount of grease or oilA single hole cable strap to fit cables

1/4" - 20 R. H. brass screwsScrew driver (about 8")

Soapstone

2. Procedure

a. OBTAIN THE TOOLS AND MATERIAL.

1) Obtain the drill, bit, and tap from the tool room.

2) Secure the other tools from your own tool box.

3) Secure the necessary screws and straps either from a supply available on the job

or by order from the electrical supplies storeroom.

b. LOCATE THE STRAP.

Note: It is assumed that the cable run is already laid out and that layout is a separate job.

1) Locate the first strap either 8 inches from the first tube or lightening hole, or 18inches from the last preceding strap, as the case may be.

2) Place the strap so that it will line the cable up properly and mark with pencil the

center of the screw holes.

63


48/56


49/56

J. How to put a strap on a cable (drill and tap) (continued)

c. CENTER PUNCH THE HOLE.

1) Set the center punch with the point on the mark just made so that it stands

squarely with the plate.

2) Strike it a light blow and check to be sure the punch has not slipped. If correct,

re-insert the center punch in the punch mark and strike it a hard blow, leaving a

full-sized punch mark.

d. DRILL THE HOLE.

1) A 13/64" drill is the proper tap size for a 1/4" - 20 brass screw in steel plate. A

7/32" drill may be used in some cases but usually it will make a loose fit and

inferior job.

2) Drill the hole clear through the plate, but before doing so be certain that there isnothing on the other side of the plate that you might damage by drilling here.

e. TAP THE HOLE.

1) Tap the hole first with the starting tap and next with the finishing tap.

2) Use plenty of oil or grease.

3) The job may be done in soft steel in one operation only with the finish tap if you

are skillful enough, but it is best to do the job in two stages.

Note: Be very careful in this operation as there is great danger of breaking the tap

if too much pressure is applied, or if the twist on the wrench is uneven. Usually abroken tap cannot be removed from the hole; however, if tap is broken, care should

be taken to see that there are no small pieces of hard steel left in the hole since

these would cause another tap to break when job is being completed.

f. PLACE CABLE IN POSITION.

1) Bring the cable into its proper position; while holding it up by hand straighten it

out so it will remain in the proper position.

g. PLACE STRAP ON CABLE.

1) Place screws and screw driver within easy reach.

2) Place the strap on the cable in its proper place with one hand.

64


50/56


51/56

J. How to put a strap on a cable (drill and tap) (continued)

3) Secure screws and screw driver with the other hand.

h. INSERT SCREW IN STRAP AND SCREW UP.

1) Insert a 1/4" - 20 round head brass screw in the strap and start it in the tappedhole.

2) Be careful not to start it cross threaded.

3) Screw it up tight enough to hold the weight of the cable.

i. STRAIGHTEN THE CABLE.

1) Pull the cable up by hand.

2) Tap it with the hammer handle to take out humps.

3) Be careful that you do not damage the cable.

. STRIKE THE STRAP WITH HAMMER TO TAKE UP SLACK.

1) Tighten up the screw and then hit the strap hard enough to set it firmly against

the plate, being careful that you do not distort it or damage the cable.

k. TIGHTEN UP THE STRAP.

1) Tapping the strap should enable you to take up the screw a little more.

2) Do not twist off the head of the screw.

l. INSPECT THE JOB.

1) Check the job and correct any faults in alignment and workmanship which may

be discovered.

3. Questions

a. How could you put a strap on a cable without drilling and tapping a plate?

b. What method do you think would be most suitable on an aluminum bulkhead?

c. Would you expect a screw in a tapped hole to be watertight?

d. Why wouldn't you run a cable along the deck--or would you?

e. Suppose that you had so much cable to strap up that you had 50 holes to drill and tap. Can

you think of a way to make the job easier?


52/56

65


53/56

K. How to install cable in a battery compartment

1. Objectives

a. To properly install batteries in the battery room or box.

b. To properly install and protect from acid, wiring and fittings in battery room orbox.


Batteries on board ship must be ready for service at all times as they are used for starting and

running emergency equipment, general alarm bells, telephones, etc. Only lead cable should

be used in battery compartments.

Open flame should never be used around batteries or in a battery compartment. Care must be

taken not to drop or tip batteries. They should remain on the charging line as long as practical

and should be installed just before the final tests.


Pocket tools

Electric drillDrills and taps of appropriate size

HammerCenter punch

Rubber tape

Insulating varnish or GlyptalPacking and Hydroseal

Vaseline

4. Procedure

a. REMOVE THE OUTER STEEL OR BRONZE ARMOR FROM THE POINT WHERETHE BATTERY LEADS ENTER THE BOX.

1) Never leave any metal other than lead on the cables.

2) When a battery compartment is used, the armor is removed to a point well out of

reach of the acid mist which the battery gives off during the charging period (about

4' above the battery shelf, or from the point where they leave the kickpipe if it is

under the shelf).

b. REMOVE THE TAPE PROTECTION UNDER THE ARMOR, THUS EXPOSING THE

LEAD.

1) Handle with care cable that has the armor and tape removed, as the lead breaks

very easily.

c. STRAP THE CABLE VERY SECURELY TO THE POINT WHERE THE LEAD IS TO

BE REMOVED FOR HOOKING UP.


54/56

1) Remove the lead about 18 inches from the end.

d. SOLDER ON BATTERY TERMINALS.

66


55/56

K. How to install cable in a battery compartment (continued)

e. COVER THE EXPOSED WIRES FROM TERMINAL TO A POINT AT LEAST 2

INCHES OVER THE LEAD.

1) Cover with a double layer of rubber tape.

2) Be sure no wire is exposed.

f. PAINT THE CABLE FROM THE POINT OF ENTRY TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL.

1) Paint with two coats of insulating varnish.

2) Cover the terminals with vaseline.

5. Illustrations

a. Battery installations

Section of Battery Box

67


56/56

K. How to install cable in a battery compartment (continued)

Cable with Armor and TapeRemoved (Top View)

Battery Box

Note: Mark all terminals so they may be identified easily (+ on white wire and - on blackwire).

68

cable handling

Documents