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BUYING GUIDEMAY 2013

2 TUSCANY

24 BORDEAUX

31 CHAMPAGNE

33 SPAIN

41 SOUTH AFRICA

44 ARGENTINA

46 CALIFORNIA

61 WASHINGTON

63 IDAHO

64 VIRGINIA

65 NEW YORK

68 SPIRITS

70 BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

The view from a vineyard in Montalcino.

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2013

2008 BRUNELLO

94 Uccelliera 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a beautiful interpretation from the 2008

vintage that shows balance, harmony and intensity all zipped up into one tight package. That seamless inte-gration, followed by rich extraction, gives the wine mo-mentum overall. Although this is a different wine from past vintages, the quality is just as high. Hold 5–10 years. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $65

93 Casanova di Neri 2008 Tenuta Nuova (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Tenuta

Nuova opens with inky dark consistency and immedi-ate aromas of old spice, leather, toasted oak and dried fruit that pop right out of the glass. Dark licorice and espresso add to the overall complexity. There’s a touch of sweet spice on the close with ripe, chewy tannins. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

93 Cupano 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Cupano delivers an ace card in 2008 with its

Brunello that has seemingly defied all the difficulties of the vintage. The wine is elegant and complex, with pret-ty layers of dried fruit, leather, tobacco, spice and dark chocolate. The acidity frames the brightness of the fruit and the mouthfeel is long and plush. Drink after 2018. Verdeor Select Vintages. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $130

93 La Poderina 2008 Brunello di Montalci-no. La Poderina is a beautiful, well-managed

estate that playfully straddles both a traditional and modern approach to Brunello. Thick black fruit aromas and tangy spice give the wine a soft and opulent first

impression. But the firm tannins and bright acidity re-mind you of its deep Tuscan roots. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $59

93 La Rasina 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. All the elements of this Brunello work beau-

tifully together. The bouquet is redolent of soft black fruit, plum cake, leather, spice and tobacco and the wine shows thick, velvety concentration in the mouth. The tannins are supple and firm and there’s a touch of bright acidity that is not too sharp or in any way unbal-anced. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $56

93 Loacker Corte Pavone 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. From one of the most creative.

quality-minded estates in Montacino, this beautiful Brunello opens with beautiful intensity and elegant aromas of cassis, espresso bean, licorice and cola. The fruit is organically farmed and there is a touch of cherry sweetness on the finish that distinguishes it. Verity Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Siro Pacenti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino . Siro Pacenti hits the nail on the head with a wine

that is concentrated and rich, but elegant and fresh at the same time. Fleshy extraction is supported by black cherry, licorice, rum cake, leather and spice. The wine’s natural freshness offsets that fruity richness and drives a long, smooth finish. Drink after 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

93 Tenuta La Fuga 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Tenuta la Fuga (from Tenute Folonari)

shows the best of the 2008 vintage with dark fruit nu-ances of candied fruit, rum cake, pomegranate juice,

cassis and blackberry. You’ll also find polished mineral nuances, cola, ginger and Spanish cedar. It shows inten-sity in the mouth, firm tannins and bright acidity. Cellar this wine 10 years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $67

93 Tenute Niccolai 2008 Podere Bellarina (Brunello di Montalcino). Brawny tones of

oak spice, milled pepper, eucalyptus, hummus and Ben-gay are followed by a delicate touch of menthol fresh-ness. Balsam notes of dried rosemary and ginger are di-vine. Give this wine a few minutes in your glass and a few years in the cellar to evolve even further. Angelini Wine. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60

92 Altesino 2008 Montosoli (Brunello di Montalcino). Montosoli is a monumental wine

that delivers pulp and richness with ripe fruit aromas, inky concentration and a touch of roasted spice at the back. The wine is savory and tangy with loads of aro-matic intensity, but that telltale acidity from the 2008 vintage hits you at the back of the throat and keeps the palate refreshed. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $120

92 Capanna 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s a steady, balanced approach to this

Brunello that sees seamless integration of red fruit, cassis, leather, cola and dried rosemary aromas. Bright acidity only serves to underline its overall liveliness. Very different from the softer 2007 vintage, this wine will appeal to those who appreciate a more traditional style. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Continued on Page 11

TUSCANY

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino—arguably Italy’s favorite wine—has recently hit the market. Many consumers are wondering what to ex-pect from the vintage, which I have rated 90 out of 100 points. Will

the new vintage be as well received as the soft, rich wines of 2007 and the elegant, refined wines of 2006?

Austerity—an overused word in the corridors of European government and finance agencies these days—happens to perfectly describe these wines. The 2008 summer was cool and moderate in temperature, and there were hailstorms and showers at certain locations on the southern side of the appellation just before harvest, resulting in wines with high acidity and bright berry tones.

“The 2008 wines are austere,” says Giancarlo Pacenti, vice president of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino and a Brunello producer. “Sangiovese is a variety that shows naturally high acidity, so the challenge in a vintage like this is keeping that freshness in check.”

Indeed, some wines do show a nervous vein of sharp acidity, but they are well balanced by plump, ripe fruit tones of cherry and blackberry.

“Acidity can be a determining factor in the longevity of a Brunello,” says vintner Donatella Cinelli Colombini. “The key, however, is finding wines that show balance and harmony in the manner that acidity is delivered.”

The Consorzio seems to think the 2008 shows that balance, scoring the vintage four out of five stars. The 2006 and 2007 vintages both received five stars from the Consorzio, and I awarded them 93 points and 95 points, respectively.

In addition to checking out the 2008s, I also reviewed many recently re-leased 2007 Riserva Brunellos this month. As you will see from the scores, the quality of the vintage is undeniable, with more than 75% of the wines reviewed receiving 90-points or more.

Although Brunello takes center stage in this issue’s Buying Guide, we also give a nod to other iconic European regions, like Bordeaux and Cham-pagne in France, or Rioja and Ribera del Duero in Spain. From the New World, check out reviews of wines from Argentina and South Africa, plus hundreds of domestic wines from across the United States.

Cheers! —Monica Larner

THE 90-POINT 2008 VINTAGE IN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

96 Bollinger 2004 La Grande Année Brut (Champagne). A blend of 66% Pinot Noir

and 34% Chardonnay, this is opulent and full bodied, with toast and wood flavors. Rich and ripe, this beautiful wine is generous and still young, with just a touch of bit-terness at the end. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $155

96 Château Trotanoy 2010 Pomerol. A com-plex wine, exhibiting smoky tannins, rich fruit,

a dark texture and concentration. Produced by the Moueix winemaking team, it feels complete with its sense of style and elegance as well as weight. Give this powerful wine many years in the cellar. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $475

95 Château Bélair-Monange 2010 Saint-Émilion. A big, complex wine from this contin-

ually improving property, this is now performing at its classed-growth level with concentrated ripe berry fruits and chocolate flavors. The wood aging is still showing through and needs time to integrate better, but as it does, this will be a great wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $375

95 Terlato 2009 Episode (Napa Valley). Terlato’s focus on Bordeaux-style reds has paid

off in the last several vintages, and this blend of Caber-net Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot continues the success streak. It has ripe, spicy flavors of blackberry jam, black currant and sweet, toasty oak, and the tannin-acid structure is balanced. Still, it’s an astringent wine that needs time in the cellar, so give it at least eight years. It could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $175

95 Terlato 2009 Galaxy Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah-Merlot (Napa County). This is dry,

smooth, rich and delicious, and it offers waves of ripe blackberry, crème de cassis, dark chocolate and charred meat flavors, plus the spiciness of sweet licorice and pepper. It can be consumed now, but it will also develop for 3–4 years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $85

94 Altvs 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). When it comes to sheer deliciousness,

this wine nails it. Comprised of 99% Cabernet Sauvig-non, with just a drop of Petit Verdot, it offers wave after heady wave of black currants and blackberry jam. What truly distinguishes the wine is the overall balance. The tannins are beautiful, the acidity fine and the oak per-fectly integrated. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com


94 Chateau St. Jean 2009 Cinq Cépages (Sonoma County). Another superb Cinq

Cépages. A blend of all five classic Bordeaux grape varieties , but based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it is both immediately pleasurable and intensely complex. Waves of black currants, dark chocolate, green olives, licorice and toasty oak roll across the palate, wrapped into firm, dusty tannins. Very good now but should develop fur-ther over the next 8–10 years. Easy to find, with 11,000 cases produced. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

94 Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Vintage Re-serve (Sonoma Valley). Mostly Cabernet

Sauvignon, with some Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver-dot, this is the winery’s best Bordeaux-style wine to date. It’s dry, smooth and utterly delicious, with herb-infused blackberry jam, mocha and sandalwood flavors. The mouthfeel is joyously addictive. Although it’s certainly fine now, it should contine to improve for at least a dozen years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $80

94 Mira 2010 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Carneros). Winemaker Gustavo Gonzalez

left Robert Mondavi to do his own thing, and what an auspicious start. He’s taken fruit from this historic Carneros vineyard and crafted a big and bold yet bal-anced Pinot filled with lusciousness. The flavors are enormously complex, ranging from fresh raspberry jam and cranberries to red currants and persimmons. Earthy cola, mushroom and forest floor notes add com-plexity. The acid-tannin balance is just about perfect. Good as it is, this compelling Pinot should develop well over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

94 PerryMoore 2008 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).

This is a wine of power and heft, a classic example of its vineyard and of modern Cabernet. It’s almost a food group in itself, offering tiers of black currants, dark chocolate, roasted meat, violets, minerals, cedar and spices. The tannins are profoundly youthful, giving the wine a hard jacket of astringency. Anticipated maturity is around 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $150

94 PerryMoore 2008 Paradii Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). A poster child for

today’s cult-style Napa wine, this Cabernet Sauvignon contains a splash of Petit Verdot. It’s deliriously rich and extracted with black currants, graphite and cedar wrapped into the smoothest tannins Napa can yield. Nothing subtle here, just tiers of complexity, power and sheer lusciousness. Drink now–2020. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $125

94 PerryMoore 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This

wine shows its warm, sunny Napa origins through its incredible concentration of fruit. Don’t look for subtlety here. It’s the power of blackberries, currants and choco-late that impresses, as well as the penetrating quality of the tannins. Will age beautifully over the next 12–15 years, but it’s so good now, you might be tempted to pop the cork. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $100

94 Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). This lush, modern Malbec explodes

with power then simmers with complexities. Opaque in color, the bouquet issues intense blackberry, lemon peel, graphite and toast aromas. In the mouth, it’s full but not flabby, and then comes an avalanche of black-fruit flavors matched by notes of spice cake, molasses, pepper and mocha. It’s warm, toasty and full of licorice on the finish. A superb wine to drink now through 2018. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $44

93 Bien Nacido 2010 Bien Nacido Vine-yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley).

Acidity marks this bone dry, tightly wound and young Chardonnay. It’s quite ripe in orange, pear, apricot and nectarine fruit, with an elegant mouthfeel. Give it some airing before serving, and it should drink well over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $43

93 Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2010 Mal-bec (Río Negro Valley). Get prepared for

another star wine from this Patagonian winery. Fresh berry, graphite, cola and toasty aromas lead to a big and smooth palate with supercharged black fruit, herb, toast and mocha flavors. It’s spicy, dry, balanced and not the least bit out of shape. No matter how you cut it, this is an excellent Argentine Malbec to drink now through 2020. Vias Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $130

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93 Castello di Amorosa 2008 La Castella-na (Napa Valley). Made from Cabernet Sau-

vignon and Merlot, with a splash of Sangiovese, this super Tuscan-style blend is powerful in every respect. It shows massively concentrated blackberry and crème de cassis flavors, with notes of dark chocolate and spices. The oak is rich and toasty, the tannins thick but as soft as silk, and the acidity lively enough to give all this rich-ness a racy hit. Best enjoyed now and over the next 2–3 years for sheer Napa exuberance. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $68

93 PerryMoore 2008 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele-

na). This is a lush, heady wine that’s full bodied and dry, with massive black cherry, red currant, bacon and cedar flavors. The tannins are thick but smooth, making the wine drinkable now, although it will certainly develop through 2020. There’s a pleasant tartness throughout that makes it especially friendly with well-marbled beef. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $125

93 PerryMoore 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a dark, deep, big wine

that’s tannic and dry, with huge stuffing. Packed on the midpalate with blackberry jam, currant, chocolate and cedar flavors, it finishes in a delicious swirl of spices. Defines the modern style of Napa Cabernet: powerful, elegant and impressive. Drink now–2020. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Ravenswood 2010 Old Hill Single Vineyard Zin-

fandel (Sonoma Valley). The trick to a successful Zinfandel is to capture the grape’s briary, brambly rustic-ity and lend it elegance and balance. This wine succeeds at that task. It’s kind of a field blend with 25% of the wine made from what the winemak-er calls “mixed blacks.” Whatever the varieties are, the wine is smooth, rich and delicious, showing complex wild berry, mocha, licorice, baking spice and sandalwood flavors. Should easily hold its own over the next 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

93 Riglos 2010 Gran Las Divas Vineyard Malbec (Tupungato). While Argentine Mal-

becs aren’t textbook cellaring wines, this one has enough spirit, tannin and structure to benefit from a few years on its side. Now, it’s lush on the nose, with ripe berry, pencil eraser, vanilla and marzipan aromas. The palate is chewy but well built, with dense blackberry, cassis, coconut and chocolate flavors. On the finish, things only intensify. Will be at its best around 2015–2016. Paul Hobbs Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32

92 Camigliano 2007 Gualto Riserva (Bru-nello di Montalcino). Camigliano’s Brunellos

are always distinctive thanks to the estate’s positioning on the lower slopes of the Montalcino denomination in a location prized for grape-growing since ancient times. The beautiful 2007 riserva shows dark chocolate, bright cherry and leather. The oak influences still need time to settle down. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Marchesi Antinori 2008 Pian delle Vigne (Brunello di Montalcino). The Antinori fam-

ily’s Brunello estate has seen ups and downs in terms of wine consistency over the past five years. But 2008 de-livers an honest and nicely concentrated expression that seems to benefit beautifully from the slightly warmer temperatures in its lower altitude vineyards. Dark choc-olate, cherry fruit and barbecue spice appear on the fin-ish. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

92 Merryvale 2009 Estate Petit Verdot (St. Helena). Blended with a little Cabernet Sau-

vignon, this Petit Verdot succeeds wildly in appealing to the senses. It’s rich, dry and smooth in tannins with in-tense oak, blackberry and chocolate flavors, with a little bit of warmth on the finish. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $75

92 Merryvale 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). It’s impossible to exaggerate the yummy factor of

this silky, fruity Pinot Noir. While it has pleasant acid-ity, it’s the raspberry, cherry, cinnamon and brown-sugar flavors that make it so appealing to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35


92 Mira 2009 Hyde Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley). The esteemed Hyde Vineyard is in

Carneros, and is the source for some incredible Syrahs from winemakers like Joseph Phelps and the Hyde Vine-yard label itself, and Mira now joins that list. The wine is wonderful. Made from 100% Syrah, it’s high in alcohol, offering rich, dense waves of blackberry and blueberry jam, chocolate, peppercorn and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $48

92 PoderNuovo a Palazzone 2009 Ther-ra (Toscana). Therra is a dense and round

blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvi-gnon and Merlot that offers pretty harmony between its dark fruit side and it exotic spice component. Lingering notes of cherry, chocolate and leather drive the long fin-ish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

92 Principe Corsini Fattoria Le Corti 2007 Don Tommaso (Chianti Classico). Don

Tommaso is a beautiful wine with ripe fruit aromas of blackberry and cherry backed by leather, spice and tobacco. The wine is super fine and silky with power and determination on the close. Henriot Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $48

92 Ryan Cochrane 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The pedigree and vintage of these im-

peccably grown grapes are apparent in this wine. It’s dry in style, but rich and concentrated with black cherries, cola, exotic spice and anise flavors, balanced with fine acidity and tannins. It’s a big wine, and should develop bottle complexity over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

92 Terlato 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Another voluptuous Cabernet

from Terlato, this is rich and savory with black currant and mocha flavors. Smoky oak and soft but penetrat-ing tannins add complexity. A beautiful, festive wine to drink now or over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $72

91 Andeluna 2010 Altitud Malbec (Tupun-gato). This is a high-quality Malbec with fleshy

berry aromas that veer towards raisiny reduction but don’t quite get there. It’s plump and buttery on the pal-ate, with baked berry, plum and herb flavors that lead to a smooth finish with a licorice accent. Drink now through 2017. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $25

91 Avanthia 2011 Godello (Valdeorras). This barrel-aged Godello is about as elegant and ele-

vated as they come. The nose of dusty apple with light spice and vanilla notes defines elegance, while flavors of apple, lemon, woodspice and vanilla interact seamlessly. Everything is composed and connected; the wine is well balanced, lightly oaked and classy. 400 cases produced. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

91 Caparzo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Caparzo delivers a consistent and clean expres-

sion of Brunello year after year. This shows a touch of bright acidity, formed thanks to a cooler than average growing season, and is backed by aromas of forest fruit and cola. Full flavors of tobacco and spice carry the wine smoothly over the palate. Vineyard Brands. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $45

91 Château Bouscaut 2010 Pessac-Léognan. A very structured, firm wine with excellent

acidity and dark, dry tannins. The alcohol does show through, but the wine is firm and very dense, a big suc-cess from this Lurton family owned property. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

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91 Fossacolle 2008 Brunello di Montal cino. Fossacolle’s Brunello is distinguished by a

chewy texture that is backed by dark concentration and plump berry fruit. The cherry and blackberry layers are thick and soft, but don’t let them fool you; Sangiovese’s characteristic acidity keeps the palate polished and pris-tine. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

91 Hidden Ridge 2008 55% Slope Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). At almost

five years of age, this Cab still tastes young and fruity. It’s incredibly dense with cherry pie, mocha and buttered cinnamon-toast flavors—distinctly New World—yet balanced with fine acidity and complex, ripe tannins. Drink it now with a great steak, simply prepared, with a brown butter sauce. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

91 Kunde 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So-noma Valley). Tasted alongside Cabs costing

up to five times more, this wine shows very well. It’s dry, balanced and elegant, offering blackberry, currant, tobacco and cedar flavors that offer lots of complexity. Fully ready to drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

91 Painted Wolf 2010 Guillermo Pinotage (Swartland). Aromas of dark forest berry,

smoke, cigar-box spice and tobacco leaf immediately waft from the glass of this forward and robust Pino-tage. The wine’s boldness continues to shine on the full palate, loaded with gripping tannins and layers of black-berry, boysenberry, roasted cocoa nib, pepper and toast-ed oak flavors. Drinkable now, but should benefit from some time in the cellar; try after 2015. Southern Starz, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

91 Terlato 2009 Cardinals’ Peak Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc (Napa

Valley). This blend exemplifies the Terlato style, which is classic, complex and drinkable early. It has rich, thick tannins and flavors of blackberries, mocha and cedar. The finish is long and spicy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

91 Trump 2007 SP Reserve Brut (Monti-cello). Rich and luscious scents of baked apple,

dried pineapple, honeyed brioche and baking spice fol-low through to the expansive palate. The well-integrated mousse lends this sparkler a luxurious feel, and the baking-spice note continues on the precise, tenacious finish. This bottling is a special release, sold to Trump Wine Club Members only. abv: 12% Price: $45

91 Va Piano 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co-lumbia Valley). Having been given almost

four years of age prior to release, this deep, dense, chewy wine includes 10% Cabernet Franc in the blend. Black fruits like cherry and cassis dominate the palate with good penetration. Aromatic and compelling, this is a wine to cellar for at least another decade, maybe two. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

90 Argiano 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This historic estate (recently sold to a group of

Brazilian investors) offers a long perspective on the his-tory of Brunello di Montalcino. Its latest release shows dark fruit extraction with smooth tones of espresso and spice at the back. Both the tannins and the acidity are well integrated and not invasive. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Buehler 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A pretty, polished and tasty wine for

drinking now. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s dry, full-bodied and smooth, with blackberry, cur-rant, dark chocolate, green olive and oak flavors. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25


90 Center of Effort 2010 Pinot Noir (Edna Val-

ley). A big, strong Pinot with pure, focused flavors of raspberry cream, cherry cobbler and plenty of oak. Edna Valley acidity is an integral part of the package. What it lacks in subtle complexity, it more than makes up for in sheer power. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

90 Col d’Orcia 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with bright acidity and foxy

notes of raw cherry, crème de cassis and sun-dried blue-berry. There’s a firm, polished nature to the tannins and the wine shows loads of fresh acidity on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Courtney Benham 2010 Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This

wine is rich and dense with blackberry, cassis liqueur and cedar flavors. It’s frankly delicious, but those tan-nins are really hard—that’s Diamond Mountain for you. Will be more mellow in 6–7 years, but it’s fine now with a nice steak. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Reserve Ries-ling (Finger Lakes). Intensely aromatic with

scents of ripe stone fruit and exotic mango, this deli-cately structured Riesling reverberates with acidity and fine, focused minerality. Semidry in style, it finishes long with lip-smacking fruitiness. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $25

90 Glen Carlou 2009 Grand Classique Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot-Malbec-

Merlot-Cabernet Franc (Paarl). Notes of cocoa and oak-derived spice add depth to the ripe, dark fruit core of this wine. Black berry, cherry and plum flavors abound on the plush palate, framed by firm tannins and a thick, supple texture. Gripping plum-skin and cigar-box notes linger long on the finish. Hess Collection. Ed-itors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 McIntyre Vineyards 2011 Kimberly Vine-yard Merlot (Arroyo Seco). A real delight

for its delicious drinkability, and a revelation for Mon-terey Merlot. Shows the acidity and varietal purity of the Arroyo Seco region, with intense plum and black-berry flavors balanced by a rich earthiness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Merryvale 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). If you’re looking for a rich, delightful, full-bodied

red wine to drink now, try this Merlot. It’s upfront in red cherry, currant, cola, mocha and spice flavors, wrapped into soft, fine tannins. A blend of fruit from some of Napa Valley’s best vineyards. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 PoderNuovo a Palazzone 2009 Sotirio (Toscana). From the new estate run by

Giovanni and Paolo Bulgari (of fashion and jewelry fame), this pure expression of Sangiovese shows very interesting aromas of bright red cherry, perfumed blue flower and a touch of sweet spice. The wine is focused, compact and crisp on the close. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

90 Robertson Winery 2010 Limited Re-lease Phanto Ridge Pinotage (Robert-

son). Brambly berries, plum and sweet-spice aromas lead on the bouquet of this wine, with secondary hints of tree bark and licorice root. The palate turns to dark fruit notes of black cherry and boysenberry, accented by glimmers of sweet smoke and cocoa. Creamy and lush in the mouth with a texture like crushed velvet and an enduring finish. Drink now-2015. Indigo Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $19

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90 Russian River 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich flavors

of cherries, persimmons, cola, anise and oak flood the mouth with immediate deliciousness. Bright Russian River acidity provides fortunate balance. It’s delicious now, but young; this has the balance to develop nicely, so give it 6–7 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Terlato 2009 Angels’ Peak Merlot- Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). For maxi-

mum enjoyment, drink this almost all-Merlot blend now. It shows ripe, lush black-cherry, red-currant, plum and bacon flavors that finish spicy and sweet tasting. The tannins are thick but smooth. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 Terlato 2009 Devils’ Peak Cabernet Franc-Merlot-Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa

Valley). This Cabernet Franc-based blend has rich fla-vors of red and black cherry jam, cherry liqueur and tobacco. The oak influence shows in the form of toasti-ness and wood spiciness. With its smooth tannins, this wine will drink well now with a great steak. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

90 Volver 2010 Single Vineyard Tempranil-lo (La Mancha). Hatched from the modern

model, this dark, oaky Tempranillo is saturated in color, with flush, potent aromas of boysenberry, wood spice and lead pencil. It’s lively and bringing the volume, while flavors of charred, savory blackberry and barbe-cue end in a crusty tasting finish with some heat. Drink now through 2018. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $16

88 Gagliole 2009 Rubiolo (Chianti Classico). Rubiolo is a soft and lush Chianti Classico with

ripe fruit aromas backed by easy leather and tobacco. The wine shows nice lines and supple spice. Vias Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2009 Span-ish Red Blend (Calatayud). Friendly aro-

mas of kirsch and black cherry form the opening. The palate feels plump and flush, with good density and overall balance. In the mouth, nothing is complicated; the wine tastes of pure berry and plum fruits with some chocolaty oak on the finish. E & J Gallo. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

88 Lovingston 2009 Estate Reserve Josie’s Knoll (Monticello). A Merlot-based blend

with 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, this of-fers forward aromas of dark cherry, blueberry compote and blackberry, which are offset by notes of pastry spice, char and tobacco. Medium- to full-bodied, it offers ripe, integrated tannins and lush acids that lend the palate a velvety texture. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Fox Meadow 2010 Le Renard Rouge (Virginia). A bitter char tone hits the senses

first, followed by intense turmeric, mocha, plum and blackberry aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, this packs chunky tannins and balanced acids, and the lingering finish replays the turmeric and berry notes. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

SPIRITS

93 Luna Nueva Tequi-la Añejo (Mexico; LCG

Inter national, Medina, OH). Consider this limited edition Tequila for a dessert pairing. The light gold spirit has a sweet vanilla and co-conut aroma and creamy caramel fla-vor, with a bit of cayenne pepper siz-zle on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $45


BEST BUYS

89 Bogle 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor-nia). What a delicious Zin this is. Sourced from

the warm climates of Lodi and Amador County, it’s ripe and fruity, offering waves of wild raspberries and cher-ries dusted with brown sugar, cocoa and pie spice. Great value in a lusty, versatile Zin. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

89 Smashberry 2011 Red (Central Coast). This wine is dark, rich and delicious, if a little

tannic. Waves of blackberries, currants, anise and dark chocolate lead to a dry but voluptuous finish. Good val-ue in a full-bodied red. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Bodegas 1898 2011 Campo Lindo Tradi-cional Tempranillo (Catalunya). This Tem-

pranillo is loaded up front, with berry, earth, cola and spice aromas. It feels good, maybe a bit edgy and ag-gressive, with cherry, raspberry, plum and pretty much every dark-fruit flavor that exists. The finish is long and solid, with grating tannins. Atlas Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

BEST BUYS

88 Borsao 2011 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo de Borja). This value Garnacha is

a fruity number with a no-nonsense berry character and clarity throughout. Cherry and plum aromas are vibrant, while flavors of black plum, boysenberry and medicinality are more than fine. Pepper, spice and over-all warmth carry the finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $8

88 Dolmo 2011 Vendimia Seleccionada Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero). This value-

priced Ribera is a winner. It opens with bright fruit, cedar and vanilla aromas. The palate feels firm and tan-nic, but not hard or mean. Flavors of black fruits, coffee and cola include chocolate and dry spice, while the fin-ish is proper in feel and the slightest bit herbal in flavor. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

87 Borsao 2011 Viña Borgia Garnacha (Campo de Borja). You won’t find many $7

wines better than this Garnacha. The bouquet of fresh berries is like a bowl of black fruit. The palate is lively and a touch creamy, with medicinal, candied flavors of plum and cherry. This wine, like most Borsao reds, de-livers above its price point. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $7

BEST BUYS

87 Line 39 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). What a great price for a Chardonnay

this balanced and savory. It’s bright in acidity, with keen flavors of limes, oranges, tropical fruits and vanilla, and just a touch of buttered toast. Easy to find, with a pro-duction of 6,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Zolo 2012 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec (Mendoza).

After rubbery, dark-fruit aromas set things up, the pal-ate feels racy and forward, with dark berry, spice and peppery flavors. It feels solid on the finish, while the fruit character holds on for a good while. Readily avail-able, with 300,000 cases made. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

86 Cline 2010 Oakley Eighty-Two (Califor-nia). Rustic and ripe, but easy to like, with red

licorice, mocha and blackberry jam flavors. Made from an assortment of grape varieties including Syrah, Merlot and Barbera. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

92 Castelgiocondo 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Frescobaldi’s Castelgiocondo is a pro-

tagonist in the Brunello school that prioritizes bold, modern expressions of the Sangiovese Grosso grape. This vintage shows pulpy fruit, soft spice and chocolate backed by dark concentration. The mouthfeel is gener-ous and full with a thick, velvety texture. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $75

92 Castello Banfi 2008 Poggio alle Mura (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio alle Mura

is a cru expression of Brunello from a flagship estate in Montalcino. The wine offers bright berry aromas and crisp acidity, but it also shows carefully measured accents of spice and tobacco that give it heft and importance on the palate. Hold this wine a few more years before open-ing. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $82

92 Castello Romitorio 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. From one of the most beautiful wine

properties in Tuscany (owned by artist Sandro Chia and managed by his son Filippo), this gorgeous Brunello shows elegance, pedigree and quality fruit. Blackberry and bright cherry are backed by warmer tones of tobacco and cigar box. There’s ageworthy structure and freshness too. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Castiglion del Bosco 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Owned by Massimo Ferragamo of

the famed Italian fashion house, this beautiful wine pres-ents the round and velvety side of Sangiovese Grosso, with lingering tones of dark fruit, prune, chocolate and spice. The wine shows structure and acidity at the back for long aging potential and sports a modern, soft per-sonality overall. The annata Brunello rivals vineyard des-ignate Campo del Drago this year. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $45

92 Citille di Sopra 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. This wine shows beautiful results with

a darkly concentrated appearance and bright aromas of prune, leather and tobacco. The wine is balanced and crisp, with lingering red cherry and chocolate flavors, but ultimately the purity of wine puts it slightly ahead of this estates’s other vineyard-designate Brunello. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

92 Fanti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. The great thing about this Brunello from Fanti is

that it delivers complexity and intensity, but remains ap-proachable and user friendly nonetheless. It’s like a com-fortable cashmere coat: There’s class and elegance with a utilitarian side. Pair it with tri-tip slow cooked over coals. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

92 Fattoi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Fattoi’s Brunello delivers impressive intensity and dark

berry nuances followed by tobacco, leather and black-berry pie. There’s a touch of ripe and opulent fruit on the close followed by tangy acidity. This wine will hold nicely for many more years to come. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

92 Fornacina 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Still in evolution, this youthful Brunello starts off

with lively fruit aromas of cherry and wild blackberry that underline the overall quality of the fruit. Then, slowly, dark tones of tobacco, toasted spice and cured meat fill in the rear. It shows balanced acidity that will help it age gracefully 10 years or longer. Villa Italia. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $64

92 Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2008 Terra Rossa (Brunello di Montalcino). This is an impres-

sive wine. Like its name suggests, Terra Rossa (red earth) is bold and opulent with unrelenting aromas of dark ber-ry, leather, spice and chocolate fudge. Toasted-oak notes fill in the background and remind you that this is a mod-ern expression of Brunello that will appeal to those who love a soft and layered style. All that rich red fruit softens the natural acidity of the vintage. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Il Poggione 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with dark concentration,

balance and harmony. The spice component versus the fresh fruit works very nicely together, and the wine shows the pulp, consistency and grit to age for more years to come. Plush fruit and smooth tannins leave a lasting im-pression. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $85

92 La Gerla 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. La Gerla always strives to preserve the territorial

characteristics of its wines. Yet, beyond the distinguish-ing characteristics of Sangiovese—the bright red fruit and the tangy acidity—is a modern wine that is inter-preted within a context of oak spice, dark extraction and a sweet chocolate finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

92 La Madonna 2008 Madonna Nera (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Madonna

Nera is a new product (this wine represents consulting enologist Carlo Ferrini’s first stab at this particular proj-ect) with plush fruit and tobacco backed by brimstone, crushed granite and black pepper. The wine’s personality is dark, brawny and rich. Vine Street Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Luce della Vite 2008 Brunello di Montalci-no. Luce della Vite opens with an inky dark ap-

pearance and added extraction that is hard to find other-wise in 2008 Brunello. Soft aromas of cherry and black-berry are followed by supple fragrances of leather and spice. There is fruit pulp in the mouth and the wine’s extra richness really helps to balance out its acidity and those still-young tannins. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $93

92 Marchesi Antinori 2008 Pian delle Vigne (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see

page 5. abv: 14% Price: $75

92 Mocali 2008 Vigna delle Raunate (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). Soft oak tones of toast, cin-

namon, dark chocolate, espresso, licorice and cassis are

WineMag.com | 11

BEST BUYS

86 Santa Julia 2012 [+] Malbec (Mendoza). The nose of this Malbec is fresh and shows black-

fruit and plum aromas. Medium bodied, with plum, red berry and herbal flavors. Tasty on the finish, this delivers all the basics for $10. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

CORRECTIONS

On page 115 of the April 2013 issue, the following wine was incorrectly listed as a Chardonnay:

93 Januik 2011 Bacchus Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). One wishes that Mike

Januik made more Rieslings, as the few he’s made from Bacchus Vineyard fruit have been excellent. This is made in a bright, spicy, palate-pleasing style, and it offers lively flavors of citrus, orange and pear. A hint of mint, a splash of jasmine tea, and an engaging, long, refreshing finish all add to the pleasure. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF Wine Enthusiast Magazine

IT’S OUR 25TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL!June marks our silver celebration and to mark the occasion we’re looking ahead to the future and reviewing the seismic shifts in the wine world since our inception a quarter of a century ago.

ITALY’S COOL WHITESWhile Northeastern Italy is home to a plethora of indigenous and introduced grape varieties, but the common theme among its whites is pure refreshment. TOP 40 UNDER 40From sommeliers and retailers to winemakers and distillers, we introduce you to the tastemakers who are informing a new generation of American drinkers.

SALMON SAVOIR-FAIREThree chefs share their secrets for preparing and pairing this versatile, heart-healthy fish.


seamlessly integrated with harmony and focus. The wine shows velvety softness with smooth tannins, a long finish and a bright point of acidity that keeps the pal-ate refreshed. The style is modern and bold. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Pieve Santa Restituta 2008 Rennina (Brunello di Montalcino). This estate, owned

by Angelo Gaja, makes two expressions of Brunello. The 2008 Sugarille shows sharp acidity, but this wine offers more balance and harmony overall. It opens with beau-tiful floral tones of pressed violets and wild berry fruit while unfolding oak-driven aromas of spice and choco-late in a more subdued manner. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $175

92 San Polino 2008 Helichrysum (Brunello di Montalcino). Exhibiting a bold and mod-

ern style, Brunello Helichrysum shows soft oak tones of chocolate and sweet spice behind blackberry and cas-sis. The wine offers inky dark concentration with some heat, polished tannins and a plump but determined fin-ish. Ultimately, the thick density balances out the wine’s natural acidity. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $85

92 Tenimenti Angelini 2008 Val di Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Val di

Suga is a compact and elegant wine that paints aromas of cherry, chocolate and spice with broad brush strokes. The wine is upbeat and cheerful (thanks to all those fresh fruit aromas) with firm structure and bright acid-ity on the close. Give the wine just a few more years to evolve for best results. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $61

91 Abbadia Ardenga 2008 Vigna Piaggia (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunel-

lo opens with inky, dark concentration and definitely shows a chewy, almost raw quality of cherry fruit that will most likely disappear with just two or three more years of cellar aging. Cola, spice, leather and smoke fill in the rear and the wine ends with crisp acidity. Peter Warren Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Altesino 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Altesino is part of an elite group of vintners that

really put Montalcino on the international wine map. Its 2008 Brunello shows some of the nervous acidity that is typical of the vintage, but it also delivers soft tones of cherry fruit, spice and chocolate that round off any sharp edges. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

91 Bolsignano 2008 Grazia (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a Brunello with nice

complexity and emerging aromas of ginger, cola, cassis, cherry and dried Indian spice. Ultimately, this is a com-pact and elegant wine with tight tannins, bright acidity and a focused, clean style. Pair it with meat dishes or oven-roasted pasta. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Bonacchi 2008 Molino della Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a pretty

Brunello that shows interesting complexity and bright aromas that really distinguish this wine from other 2008s. The aromas lean toward herbal and menthol tones, with accents of cola and black licorice. There’s more fruit in the mouth, especially cherry, with crisp freshness too. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Brunelli Martoccia 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. The delicate and playful bouquet of-

fers tight aromas of small berry fruit, ginger, cola, cedar and a touch of black tar or graphite. The aromatic com-plexity is intriguing. In the mouth however, the wine’s bright acidity is still a bit sharp and raw at this young stage. Hold 5–10 years. August Wine Group. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

91 Capanne Ricci 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. There’s a fleshy and chewy quality to

this wine that is reflected by its aromas of dark cherry, cured meat and tobacco. In the mouth, it shows density and firmness with a bright touch of acidity on the close. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Caparzo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 6.

abv: 13% Price: $45

91 Caprili 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. If you like extra brawn in your Brunello, this wine

is for you. It opens with a dark color and thick aromas of cassis, leather, spice and tobacco that hint at the power to come. The mouthfeel is streamlined and tight, but it also benefits from firm tannins and a bright acidic vein. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60

91 Casanova di Neri 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Giacomo Neri almost always delivers

fireworks with each new release of his Brunello. This 2008 is slightly less sparkly, although it does show even consistency and excellent balance. Concentrated cherry and blackberry fruit give way to cola, spice and tobacco. The finish is firmly structured and acidic. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

91 Casanuova delle Cerbaie 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Chocolate, sweet spice, to-

bacco, leather and dark berry fruit give this Brunello a bold and impactful first impression. When it comes to the mouthfeel, the wine plays a more subtle game with polished tannins, mild cherry fruit and a bright point of fresh acidity. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 Casato1 2008 Voliero (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Bold and dark, this brawny wine

shows beautifully evolved aromas of cured meat, leather, tar, cola and resin backed by candied fruit, pomegranate and crème de cassis. That extra muscle helps support the sharpness of the acidity, and plays a promising role in the wine’s overall aging potential. Hold 5–10 years. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $55

91 Castello Banfi 2008 Brunello di Montalci-no. This selection offers balance and integrated

aromas of spice, dark fruit, leather, tobacco, cola and rum cake. The wine shows power and heft both in terms of alcohol and consistency. Smoothly polished, fine tan-nins appear on the close. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

91 Castiglion del Bosco 2008 Campo del Drago (Brunello di Montalcino). Cherry

cola and licorice open the nose of this dark, brooding Brunello. At this young stage, the wine feels slightly sharp and raw in the mouth and it definitely needs an-other three to five years of cellar aging. Brambly oak and spice give it a zesty and spicy finish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

91 Cava d’Onice 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. Cava d’Onice is a delightful estate on the

eastern side of Montalcino run by a husband and wife team (with two small children). This expression opens with dark fruit and spice backed by bright tones of cher-ry and toasted almond. In the mouth, it shows structure and mild softness. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Citille di Sopra 2008 Vigna Poggio Ronconi (Brunello di Montalcino). This

vineyard- designate Brunello exhibits a dark, meaty style with thick concentration and a ruby color with am-ber highlights. The wine shows some pulpy fruit in the mouth, especially cherry, and smooth tannins. That soft dark fruit helps balance out the sharpness of the acidity. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

91 Collelceto 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright fruit tones of cherry, pomegranate and

red currant give this Brunello a pristine and youthful personality. The quality of those red fruit aromas is re-markable and the wine shows well-integrated spice, leather and tobacco notes. A very welcome splash of sweet-fruit flavor helps smooth out Sangiovese’s natural acidity. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $44

91 Colombaio 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. A touch of plush spice and toasted espresso give

this wine extra power and endurance in terms of its ar-omatic delivery. The mouthfeel is soft and plush, and fruit tones of red cherry and dried blackberry hold the wine tightly together on the palate. Fresh acidity caps the experience. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Conti Costanti 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. There’s a savory, almost chewy side to this

Brunello that is enhanced by aromas of tobacco, spice, dark cola, licorice, blackberry and currant. The wine shows balance and intensity with a soft, plush feel in the mouth that stands in pleasing contrast against to wine’s young tannins and acidity. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $75

91 Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2008 Prime Donne (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s

a modern, plush and extracted wine that delivers bold

WineMag.com | 13

spice, leather, bitter chocolate, cola and cassis. There’s a nervous acidic vein throughout the wine and the tannins are still young and need time to age. Give this Brunello a few more years in the cellar. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Fattoria Scopone 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. This shows sophisticated aromas of

cured meat, Indian spice and dried tobacco that sit as subtle afterthoughts at the back of the bouquet. The core of the wine is dominated by dark cherry and plum fruit. Firmly structured and still young, the wine needs a few more years to evolve. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

91 Fossacolle 2008 Brunello di Montal cino. For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.5% Price: $65

91 Gianni Brunelli 2008 Le Chiuse di Sotto (Brunello di Montalcino). This opens with a

pretty garnet color and subtle aromas of spice, crème de cassis, leather and tobacco. The wine shows compact lines with tight structure, bright acidity and a lingering note of smoky ash on the close. The style is tradition-al, sour and bright. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

91 Il Marroneto 2008 Selezione Madonna delle Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino).

This Brunello Selezione epitomizes the clean, polished and easygoing style of the 2008 vintage. The wine shows a savory side with aromas of cured meat and dried herb, as well as a bold fruit side with plush cherry and black-berry. The acidity is high, but is also balanced out by its natural density and rich texture. Montcalm Wine Im-porters. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $99

91 Il Valentiano 2008 Campo di Marzo (Brunello di Montalcino). Black cherry fruit

is followed by notes of espresso, leather, crushed gran-ite, cola and licorice. The wine shows bright acidity in the mouth but it also has enough fruity pulp and density to soften that sharpness. Pair this wine with spicy baby-back ribs. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Innocenti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright and cheerful in character, and immedi-

ate in terms of its aromatic delivery, this delivers coffee bean, candied fruit, blackberry, cherry cola and dried spice notes. There’s a sweet element to the mouthfeel that is fleshed out by the wine’s bright acidity. Mission Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 La Collina dei Lecci 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This unique Brunello shows aro-

mas of ginger snap, cinnamon, cherry cola and wild forest berry. The aromas are delivered in a delicate manner, with tiny footprints, that add to the overall complexity and elegance of the experience. Violets, wet earth and button mushroom appear on the close. Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 La Corte dei Venti 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. The appeal here is that extra dose of

round fruit and cherry softness that gives this wine a beautifully smooth entry onto the palate. It sports a dark hue and thick concentration, but also delivers enough acidity to avoid any sensations of heaviness or overripe-ness. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $70

91 La Fortuna 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This is a muscular wine with sweet-blackberry

fruit upfront, followed by clove, cinnamon, toasted nut, tobacco and leather. The texture is layered and rich with loads of chocolate and ripe fruit that renders a soft, ripe touch to the finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $65

91 La Magia 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello stands out because of the bright-

ness of its color. Many of the other wines of 2008 show garnet and browning amber hues, but this wine is ruby red with purple rims. It shows a soft and modern side with bright cherry, chocolate and nicely structured tan-nins. BCI LLC. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 La Mannella 2008 I Poggiarelli (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). I Poggiarelli opens with

fleshy, dark concentration and brawny aromas of smoked bacon, dark fruit and spice. But don’t be swayed by your first impressions. The high acidity and overall crispness offered here cuts out any of the overdone soft-ness or chewiness you might initially expect. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

91 Lambardi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. What this Brunello has going for it is the soft-

ness of its bouquet and immediate aromas of ripe cherry fruit, spice, chocolate and cedar. Careful barrel aging has softened the high acidity and gives the wine a more approachable and pleasurable style. Petit Pois. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Le Gode 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Beautifully sweet cherry and bright forest fruit

provide nice contrast against savory notes of spice and tobacco. This Brunello is balanced and bright, with firmly structured tannins and a flash of acidity on the close. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Mastrojanni 2008 Vigna Loreto (Brunello di Montalcino). At first, this radiates sensa-

tions of power and determination. After a few minutes in the glass, that nervous energy is slowly transformed into elegance and impressive complexity. Slightly raw notes of spice and cola render sharp edges and suggest the wine needs a few more years of bottle aging. Select-ed Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

91 Mocali 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Soft tones of toasted almond, cinnamon, nutmeg and

espresso make for a bold and powerful bouquet. There’s ample fruit, presented as dried blackberry and cassis, that gives the wine the heft it needs to support the tight

tannic structure and acidity. Sour cherry flavors drive the lively finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $47

91 Molino di Sant’Antimo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Raw spice, cola, dark fruit, leath-

er and tobacco open the bouquet of this Brunello from one of the sunniest sides of the Montalcino denomina-tion. Savory notes of cured meat and even a touch of campfire give the wine a dusty, but elegant feel on the close. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

91 Podere Brizio 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. This opens with sweet notes of cinnamon

spice, licorice and crème de cassis that seem so typical of the 2008 vintage. There’s even a touch of softness in the mouth, followed by long, velvety tannins that keep the momentum strong. Pair this wine with succu-lent cuts of red meat marinated in rosemary. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

91 Poggio Antico 2008 Altero (Brunello di Montalcino). Altero opens with a dark garnet

color and tight fruit aromas of white cherry, pomegran-ate, cassis and dried raspberry. Supple tones of smoke, leather and tobacco fill out the rear but only play a sup-porting role. In the mouth, the wine is tight, stream-lined and sharp. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

91 Poggio di Sotto 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Distant notes of roasted almond,

campfire and cigar box give this wine a spicy, dusty per-sonality. This is a very interesting wine: It’s lean and not overtly intense but it does deliver supple and delicate fruit aromas that come forward in measured but con-sistent pulses. A touch of sour cherry marks the bright close. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $187

91 Poggio il Castellare 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This young Brunello opens with a

dark, penetrating color and thick aromas of exotic spice, chocolate, toasted espresso bean, nutmeg and pepper-corn. There’s a raw, chewy feel to the wine that gives it heft and power, followed by sweet tannins and a rich, chocolaty consistency. Margate Wine & Spirit Compa-ny. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

91 Renieri 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Renieri delivers that style of austere and elegant

Brunello that begs for a steak dinner on a cold winter night. The wine is fleshy and thickly concentrated, with bright highlights of cherry, plum, cinnamon and a touch of crushed clove. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

91 San Felice 2008 Campogiovanni (Bru-nello di Montalcino). Inky dark concentra-

tion and bright cherry fruit open the nose of this nicely balanced Brunello. Leather, tobacco and cola notes give it aromatic momentum, and the wine shows bright acid-ity capped by firm tannins. Pair it with lamb or pork. Premium Brands. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60


91 San Polino 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This dark and brawny Brunello shows distant

whiffs of cured meat, curry leaf, campfire and brim-stone to frame its bright cherry essence. Silky tannins and lean fruit consistency is followed by bright, zippy freshness. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $69

91 San Polo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. San Polo offers a very unique interpretation of

the 2008 vintage. Rather than focus on bold cherry and leather aromas, this Brunello shows tones of pepper-mint, chopped herb, cola, ginger and forest berry. The mouthfeel is compact, tight and shows some astringency that will soften with time. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

91 Santa Maria 2008 Colleoni (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Colleoni presents a

bright portrait of Sangiovese fruit that is packed tight with layers of forest berry, cherry cola, cassis, raspberry and raw spice. The acidity is present but does not feel as sharp as some of the other wines form this cool vintage. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $85

91 Sesta di Sopra 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Dark cherry, leather, tobacco and spicy

aromas of cured meat open the bouquet of this deeply layered Brunello. There’s fruit intensity as well in the form of cassis, dried raspberry or cranberry. The natural freshness and structure here would pair well with thick home-made pasta and sauce. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Siro Pacenti 2008 Pelagrilli (Brunello di Montalcino). Siro Pacenti is among a handful

of producers who has successfully interpreted the chal-lenging conditions of 2008 in Montalcino. This expres-sion is darkly concentrated and rich, with fleshy fruit notes of black cherry and cassis backed by spice, leather and lingering tobacco. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Tenuta di Sesta 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Streamlined and polished, this is a

delicate and dusty Brunello, with aromas of brimstone, lead pencil, cola, ginger, dried berry and cassis. There is a distant aroma of toasted nut, adding to the wine’s overall complexity. Dry, tight and austere in the mouth. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

91 Tenuta Vitanza 2008 Tradizione (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). Tradizione stands out in a

crowd of Brunellos thanks to that extra layer of inten-sity and richness it offers in both the nose and mouth. Ripe fruit, leather, prune and tobacco build momentum on the finish. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Valdicava 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This pretty Brunello is begging for more time

to age (hold 5–10 years) to complete the evolution that is already underway. There’s a plump and modern side to the wine that is characterized by bright cherry, choc-olate and spice. But it also shows a delicate side with

dried ginger and cola. The tannins will become silky and polished. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $98

90 Agostina Pieri 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Here’s a mild and delicate expres-

sion of Sangiovese Grosso with crisp berry aromas of pomegranate and cassis that are fleshed out by warmer tones of leather and spice. The wine is bright and fine-ly etched in the mouth with firm tannins and a pretty smoky aftertaste. Rare Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Argiano 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Baricci 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bar-icci is a small estate that has shown a nice evolu-

tion in style and presentation over the past several years. Wines are aged in large oak casks to allow those fruit essences of blackberry and wild cherry to shine through. A distant touch of exotic spice adds an elegant feel to the finish. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

90 Belpoggio 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello Belpoggio opens with a smoky layer of

spice and toast that peels off in one thick layer. Aromas of tobacco, leather and nutmeg are followed by dried raspberry fruit and cassis. The wine shows bold struc-ture with a velvety texture and mild cherry softness. Vino Direct. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $50

90 Bonacchi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bonacchi’s “annata” Brunello delivers elegance

and brawn with thick aromas of ripe fruit, tobacco, leather and blackberry. The wine exhibits a rich and straightforward style with pulpy dark flavors, a velvety texture and a bright point of sour cherry on the close. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Bonacchi 2008 Molino del Piano (Bru-nello di Montalcino). Bonacchi makes sev-

eral expressions of Brunello. Molino del Piano is a ripe and plush wine with some savory aromas of cured meat and leather backed by Indian spice and black currant. Despite the ripeness, firm structure gives the wine aus-terity. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $38

90 Canalicchio Franco Pacenti 2008 Bru-nello di Montalcino. This young Brunello

opens with a dark garnet color and shows elegant aro-mas of cassis, dried raspberry, ginger, cola and licorice. The wine really comes alive in the mouth thanks to the bright acidity and its inherently traditional style. Admi-ralty Beverage. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Canalicchio di Sopra 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Coffee, leather, licorice and plum

cake flavors are deeply concentrated on this rich, opu-lent wine. There’s fruit here too, in the form of cherry li-queur and blackberry pie. This is a robust and generous

wine that will appeal to those who appreciate a darker side of Brunello. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $54

90 Col d’Orcia 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Col di Lamo 2008 Brunello di Montal cino. Loaded with bright fruit and bold cherry, this

Brunello opens with dark intensity and a smooth rich-ness. Aromas include blackberry, rum cake, crushed graphite, licorice, Indian spice and tobacco. The wine feels compact and clean with savory flavors and crisp acidity overall. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $75

90 Collosorbo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Oak spice and dark chocolate are balanced nice-

ly against dried fruit, cassis and sour cherry. The various aromatic elements are measured and integrated to form a wine that promises steady evolution in the future. That impression is reinforced by the wine’s structure and bright acidity. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2008 Bru-nello di Montalcino. There’s a distant note

of underbrush or bramble that gives this Brunello a fo-cused, almost etched impression in the mouth. Cola, cherry liqueur, black licorice, ginger and cedar give the wine an austere personality that is matched by the dusty, elegant nature of the tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

90 Donna Olga 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This is the kind of Brunello you want on a cold

winter night by the fireplace. The wine delivers dark concentration with oak spice and tobacco followed by a long succession of bright berry nuances. The tannins are tight and firm and the acidity renders a cool, sharp feel on the close. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2008 Vigna Mana-petra (Brunello di Montalcino). Vigna Man-

apetra’s inky dark concentration is noticeable from afar and gives this Brunello a brawny and dark personality. The bouquet is broad and immense with integrated aro-mas of dark cherry, spice, leather and toasted nut. It’s almost too much of a good thing with smooth, evolved tannins and a touch of bitter fruit on the close. Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $48

90 Il Marroneto 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. Brunello Il Marroneto offers a touch of

ripeness in the form of cherry fruit, vanilla cream, cin-namon and caramel. Sharp acidity in the backdrop defi-nitely puts all that soft roundness into perspective. The wine is etched, austere and firmly structured. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

90 Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2008 Bramante (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a very good

deal for a Brunello “annate” representing the 2008 vin-

tage. The wine offers dark concentration and steady aromas of red fruit, vanilla oak, lead pencil and drying brimstone. Touches of white pepper and cola appear on the silky finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 La Mannella 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. La Mannella offers an opulent, modern wine

with ripe aromas of black cherry, leather, rum cake and black licorice. The wine is tight and astringent in the mouth with sharp endnotes of sour cherry and bright acidity. Its natural density stands up to the freshness and the whole package works as a whole. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

90 La Togata 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Shapely and balanced, this bright Brunello

shows a clean style that is reinforced by pristine aro-mas of forest fruit, cranberry, white cherry, cola, ginger and a spicy touch of ground white pepper. Bright acid-ity creates a cooling sensation in the mouth and would pair well with creamy or cheesy pasta dishes. Panebi-anco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

90 La Velona 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Among the most attractive qualities of this

Brunello are the drying mineral tones of brimstone and crushed granite that frame softer tones of cherry fruit and plum cake. There’s a savory touch of black pepper and spice and the wine shows bright freshness as well. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

90 Lazzeretti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Sometimes Sangiovese Grosso, depending

on the vineyard and the vintage, shows slightly green aromas of dried Mediterranean herbs like bay leaf and rosemary. This Brunello offers a glimpse of that with loads of bright cherry, blackberry and leather at the back. The close is bright and fresh. Pacific Wine Distributors . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $62

90 Le Chiuse 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Le Chiuse delivers a consistent message with its

wines year after year. It strives for clean, austere and territory-driven expressions of Sangiovese Grosso. This vintage is very true to the estate philosophy: You’ll rec-ognize wild berry, white cherry, rose petal, dried ginger and cola. You can count on it evolving nicely over the years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

90 Mastrojanni 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello Mastrojanni is always a highlight

among the various wines from Montalcino. Bright and elegant, it shows aromas of cherry, cola, ginger, dried spice, leather and spice. The mouthfeel is lean and tight with crisp acidity and firm, polished tannins. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

90 Máté 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. A raw note of spice and tobacco gives this Brunello a

brawny, masculine personality. Cherry cola, licorice, sa-vory spice, smoked bacon and black currant hint at the

many years of cellar aging that have shaped the evolu-tion. Those flavors also add to the overall finesse and silkiness of the finish. Vinilandia USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $65

90 Padelletti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This austere Brunello opens with dusty, min-

eral notes of crushed white peppercorn and brimstone followed by cherry candy, licorice, cola and dried gar-den herb. The wine shows an interesting and complex bouquet that holds its own in terms of intensity. There isn’t much fresh fruit, but the tannins are dusty and fine. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

90 Pietranera 2008 Agricola Centolani (Brunello di Montalcino). Succulent steak or

breaded veal would make good pairing partners to this elegant Brunello. The wine delivers oak spice, red fruit, black pepper and balsam notes of dried ginger and cola. The wine is lively and delicate with some astringency to the tannins that will soften in a few more years. Soilair Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Pietroso 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Following in the footsteps of this estate’s suc-

cessful Rosso di Montalcino (from the same vintage), this Brunello opens with soft tones of cherry and choco-late with slightly offbeat aromas of cookie dough or al-mond paste. The mouthfeel is vibrant and fresh. Eno-tria Wine Import. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

90 Poggio Antico 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. Poggio Antico is one of the best estates

in Montalcino but the 2008 vintage doesn’t reach the impressive heights of 2006 or 2007 that showed much fuller and more generous results. This edition offers plum, wild berry and leather aromas with a lean mouth-feel and sharp acidity that will soften with a few more years of bottle aging. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $90

90 Poggio Nardone 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Ripe fruit tones of raspberry jam and

blackberry jelly open the bouquet giving this Brunello a plump, sun-kissed personality. It shows a dark garnet color in the glass and has flavors of toasted espresso bean, tobacco, leather and spice with aromatic vanilla endnotes. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $48

90 San Lorenzo 2008 Bramante (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a masculine and powerful

expression of Brunello with tight tannins, dark concen-tration and savory aromas of dark fruit, prune, leather, pipe tobacco and bitter chocolate. That characteristic acidity kicks in at the end and gives the wine a burst of levity. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

90 Sesti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Tra-ditional and bright with berry aromatics that

really pop, Sesti’s Brunello delivers a steady stream of cherry, cassis, dried ginger, leather and tobacco aromas. The acidity feels sharply etched in the mouth and the

wine could use 5–7 years in the cellar to soften. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $94

90 Talenti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Tal-enti delivers Brunello typicity with a long list

of aromatic components that characterize this wine—dried ginger, cherry cola, dried rosemary, crushed gran-ite and blue flower. The wine is elegant and smooth with a splash of acidity on the close. HP Selections . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

90 Tassi 2008 Franci (Brunello di Montalci-no). Very characteristic of the 2008 vintage,

this young Brunello opens with soft and round aromas of cherry and blackberry backed by delicate tones of spice and tobacco. Once the wine hits the palate, you will feel that bright acidity that is so typical of Sangio-vese Grosso. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $110

90 Tenuta Crocedimezzo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello shows nice balance

and a very comfortable level of aromatic intensity that is playful and bright without going over the top. You’ll recognize tones of sweet berry fruit, cinnamon, tobacco and even a touch of zesty ginger snap. The wine feels silky and firm with bright freshness on the close. Aven-tine Hill LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $56

90 Tenuta Friggiali 2008 Agricola Centolani (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark fruit and

plum cake open the bouquet and set the stage for the overall aromatic richness and intensity to come. But then, that crisp acidity pops up in the mouth and pulls the wine towards a lighter, leaner side where small berry fruit and blue violets make an appearance. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright cherry cola and black cur-

rant gives this Brunello a plump and fruity personality that is difficult to find in the wines of 2008. Those fruit notes are raw, bold and are followed by a soft touch of milk chocolate or vanilla. The wine shows a creamy, vel-vety texture with a point of acidity and alcoholic heat. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

90 Tornesi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. A touch of ripe fruit that recalls strawberry or

raspberry jam gives this wine a soft and round first im-pression. Later, evolved notes of leather, cola and cassis add to the overall complexity. The wine is graciously vel-vety and supple in the mouth. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Verbena 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. The wine opens with an inky dark color and

segues to thick aromas of black fruit, espresso, tobacco and spice. Most of the action is on the nose however, because the mild mouthful offers just enough struc-ture and acidity to compliment those foods. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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90 Villa I Cipressi 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. There’s a strong fruit component to this

Brunello that adds to the general softness and plush-ness of its cheerful personality. Blueberry, raspberry and fresh cherry are backed by subtle touches of smoke and moist pipe tobacco. Espresso and chocolate appear on the close and the acidity is not too sharp. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Villa Poggio Salvi 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. This Brunello shows a pristine and

bright bouquet that hinges on polished mineral nuanc-es, like wet river stone, cherry cola, ripe blackberry, gin-ger and rum cake. The wine shows great evolution and complexity despite its young age and just enough fruity pulp to support the lively acidity. Blue Coast Interna-tional. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $55

90 Vini Italiani da Sogno 2008 Carillon (Brunello di Montalcino). The name of the

estate translates as “Italian wines to dream about,” and there is good reason to dream about this latest Brunello. The wine offers solid color and concentration accented by dark leather, spice, prune and blackberry. You can feel the extracted fruit in the mouth that finds balance against the wine’s natural acidity. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

89 Armilla 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello is packed tight with strong aromas of

espresso, leather, tobacco, black fruit, prune and black-berry jam. The wine is solid and firm, mildly complex overall, and delivers bold power and determination. But wait for that sharp acidity in the mouth. Jao Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $55

89 Bonacchi 2008 Casalino (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark fruit and inky concentra-

tion help balance out the wine’s sharp acidity. In be-tween its aromatic extremities are layers of dark fruit, cherry cola, white pepper, tobacco and leather. It also shows a menthol finish. Total Wine & More. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Camigliano 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Vintage after vintage, the wines of Camigliano

offer a long perspective on the changing evolution and complexities of Brunello di Montalcino. This edi-tion shows bright berry nuances with spicy highlights of white pepper and cola. The mouthfeel is crisp and sharp. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 Canneta 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Cherry drops, rum cake and raw licorice open

the bouquet of this youthful Brunello. The wine pres-ents a tight and austere personality with nice balance between its oak spice and its candied fruit aromas. Bright acidity and drying tannins mark the finish. Or-vino Imports & Distribution. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Castello di Velona 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. This historic estate delivers a fresh and

elegant wine with etched oak tones that linger lightly

alongside dark berry fruit, plum and licorice. Bright acidity hits the back of the mouth, and the wine ends with menthol nuances. Caffo Beverages Inc. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Donna Olga 2008 Favorito (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Favorito opens with a

garnet color, amber hues and shows aromas of leather, tobacco, cured meat, bresaola and cassis. The wine is compact and lean in the mouth with bright acidity, mak-ing it a fine pairing for steak with cream and wild mush-room sauce. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Fattoria dei Barbi 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. From one of the oldest estates in Mon-

talcino, this pretty Brunello opens with inky dark fruit and plump cherry backed by touches of leather and spice. But like many of the wines from the 2008 vin-tage, it shows austere and sharp acidity as well. Paster-nak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

89 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Mild, compact and fresh, this ru-

by-colored Brunello shows bright aromas of crisp berry fruit backed by vanilla, toasted almond, cola and a touch of campfire. The mouthfeel is streamlined and tight, making for a less informal expression of this greatest of Tuscan reds. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Fuligni 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Fuligni delivers a bright and sharp Brunello

with medium build and tight forest berry aromas. The acidity leaves your mouth as clean as a whistle, and the wine imparts lingering tones of chopped mint, cola and dried ginger on the close. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

89 Il Palazzone 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Il Palazzone is a beautiful estate with a bright

future ahead. Its 2008 Brunello is marked by lush fruit tones of cherry and blackberry followed by dried gin-ger, chopped mint, spice and pressed rose petal. In the mouth, it shows that telltale acidity of Sangiovese Grosso. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2008 Poggiolo (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a sassy and

bright Brunello that shows a lean consistency and sharp aromas of white cherry, cassis, ginger and cola. The wine’s natural acidity makes for a nervous and edgy per-sonality overall. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 La Colombina 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. Savory notes of bacon and cured meat

open the bouquet of this nicely evolved Brunello. The wine is raw and sharp on the close with brambly notes of sour fruit and white cherry. Overall, the wine presents a balanced juxtaposition between sweet-and-sour fruit that seems characteristic of the 2008 vintage. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $48

89 La Fiorita 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Like the name suggests, La Fiorita shows a play-

ful touch of rose or dried violet that sets it apart. Flo-ral aromas are characteristic of Sangiovese Grosso and this estate works hard to make sure those aromas come through loud and clear. The wine is crisp and lean on the palate with a bright point of freshness. Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 La Fornace 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. An inky dark color sets the stage for this thickly

extracted Brunello. Oak-inspired shadings of clove, nut-meg and toast appear at first and are slowly followed by dark cherry, blackberry and currant. Despite all that color and aromatic intensity, the wine seems quite tame and lean in the mouth. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

89 La Palazzetta 2008 Brunello di Montalci-no. Here is an easygoing and crisp Brunello

from the cool 2008 vintage that shows lively berry nu-ances backed by savory touches of spice and black pep-per. It’s tight and compact without too much pulp or softness on the close. World Wide Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $58

89 La Torre 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Pretty coffee and tobacco aromas add weight

and persistency to this garnet colored Brunello. There’s fruit here in the form of cherry, pomegranate and dried raspberry but those savory notes at the back really add to the wine’s overall complexity. Rosenthal Wine Mer-chants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

89 Lisini 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Oak-driven tones of toasted spice, pipe tobacco and

bitter chocolate are followed by balsam tones of lico-rice, cola and dried ginger. There’s a touch of fruity rich-ness followed by crisp acidity and forest berry. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $74

89 PianCornello 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. A steady protagonist in the greater

Brunello family, PianCornello delivers a masculine and powerful wine with aromas of dark fruit, leather, tobacco and rum cake. It shows medium density and thickness in the mouth, with bright cherry flavors shin-ing through on the finish. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $70

89 Piccini 2008 Villa al Cortile (Brunello di Montalcino). A touch of apple or raspberry

gives this bright Brunello a very lively and buoyant first impression. The tannins are firm and tight followed by a sharp, crisp mouthfeel. Pair it with breaded veal or lightly fried chicken. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Pieve Santa Restituta 2008 Sugarille (Brunello di Montalcino). Sugarille (by An-

gelo Gaja) is among the top-scoring wines in Montalci-no but this edition is weighed down by biting acidity that is characteristic of the 2008 vintage. Modern aro-mas of black cherry, chocolate and tobacco deliver in-tensity and power. But the freshness feels sharp and raw

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at the back of the mouth. Give this wine a few more years to evolve. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $190

89 Piombaia Rossi-Cantini 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This is a hearty and masculine

Brunello that is redolent of espresso syrup, cherry li-queur, rum cake and moist pipe tobacco. The tannins show some grittiness in texture and the finish is capped by long-lasting freshness. Good Earth Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $57

89 Podere Paganico 2008 Brunello di Mon-talcino. Tight fruit aromas of cassis, cranberry

and wild berry give this wine a bright and crisp first im-pression. The acidity is sharp, lively and definitely cuts straight across the palate. There’s medium body here to hold up all that freshness. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Poggiarellino 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. Compared to the 2007 vintage that awed

and impressed, this 2008 Brunello seems slightly older than it really is. The aromas are already headed towards dried fruit, cured meat, crushed mineral and Band-Aid. The mouthfeel is freshly acidic and slightly textured. Drink now. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Poggiotondo 2008 Agricola Centolani (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a measured

Brunello that shows just enough aromatic intensity and texture to safely bet on its aging potential. At this young stage, the bouquet is still a bit shy with soft but balanced fruit tones set against savory spice and tobacco. In the mouth, the wine is bone dry and very fresh. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 San Carlo 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This playful and easy-going Brunello shows ripe

fruit and a darkly concentrated appearance with linger-ing tones of tobacco, dark chocolate and prune. In the mouth, however, it shows a lighter and leaner side than you would expect. Corquete Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $74

89 San Filippo di Giannelli 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello shows an aus-

tere and sophisticated side with dusty tertiary aromas of leather, old spice, pressed rose and dried berry fruit like currants or cranberries. There’s a bit of snap or bite to the mouthfeel with lingering tones of cola, citrus and ginger. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

89 Tenuta San Giorgio 2008 Ugolforte (Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a light

and feminine expression of Brunello that delivers bright berry and white cherry with pretty layers of dried mint and cherry cola at the back. The wine’s natural acidity is tight and sharp and you can feel a pinch of heat on the close. Majestic Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

89 Terre Nere di Campigli Vallone 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark fruit, prune,

cured meat, tobacco and leather are followed by accents

of strawberry or blackberry jelly. There’s a ripe quality to the fruit here that is followed by spicy oak and thick concentration. The presentation is easy and soft. Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

88 Bellaria 2008 Assunto (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This opens with pretty, dark concen-

tration and balanced aromas of black cherry and red currant set against leather, cedar and drying mineral notes. That extra density helps soften the sharp acidity. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Cantina di Montalcino 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. The nice thing about this Brunello

is that it is not one of those in-your-face reds. Instead, the wine delivers measured tones of cherry, leather, coffee and spice that are integrated and balanced as a whole. In the mouth, it shows good tannic structure and point of bright acidity. Vintelligence. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $46

88 Cantine Leonardo 2008 Da Vinci (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). The high acidity on this

wine gives it a sharp and steely personality, especially on first impression. Those sharp edges will soften with time but the wine already shows slightly aged aromas of candied berries, tar, tobacco and leather. Pair it with creamy pasta dishes. E & J Gallo. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

88 Domus Vitae 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. This wine bursts open with vibrant tones

of sweet cherry and forest berry followed by cola and a touch of fruit liqueur. The wine is easy and fresh but also shows the depth and intensity that link it to its cel-ebrated siblings in the greater Brunello family. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

88 Ferrero 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Despite the cool growing season in 2008, this

Brunello shows ripe aromas of cherry and plump black fruit. Softer tones of spice and graham cracker fill in the rear, and ultimately the wine’s crisp acidity comes as a surprise. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright, lively and

buoyant, this Brunello offers great aromatic intensity overall. It definitely shows a bright vein of acidity that runs straight through the wine and holds it tightly to-gether. Pair it with oven-baked cheese flan or crispy fried potatoes. You need fatty foods to match that sharp acidity. USA for Little Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 La Serena 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Here is a super dark and concentrated Brunello

with aromas of black cherry, blackberry pie, teriyaki sauce, leather, cured meat and moist pipe tobacco. The wine is definitely chewy and ripe, but with great struc-ture and a velvety texture. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

88 Le Potazzine 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. Cherry liqueur and crème de cassis give

this Brunello a bright and polished personality. Crisp berry tones are followed by tight, nervous acidity that renders a sharp and steely feel in the mouth. The tan-nins are firm and compact. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

88 Marchesato degli Aleramici 2008 Bru-nello di Montalcino. Here is a straight shoot-

ing and easy expression of Brunello with cherry, leather, tobacco and more dark fruit at the back. The wine is very fine and smooth, but ultimately less complex than other vintages. Fedway Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $46

88 Paradiso di Frassina 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. The secret to this wine’s quality,

according to the producer, is to play Mozart non stop in the vineyards. Like the classical pianist’s music, this wine displays both high notes and low notes, but with a beautiful, fruit-forward bouquet and a lean, crisp feel in the mouth. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

88 Pinino 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello Pinino opens with inky dark concen-

tration and heavy aromas of ripe fruit, tobacco smoke, leather, tar, licorice and sweet cherry or prune. There’s a fine but gritty texture to the tannins and the wine ends on a dry, astringent note. Give it a few more years to un-wind. Total Beverage Solution. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

88 Ridolfi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright cherry cola, dried ginger, cassis and rum

cake open the bouquet of this pretty Brunello. This crisp wine offers some complexity, but remains an easy drinking and fresh expression of Sangiovese Grosso overall. George Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

88 San Filippo di Giannelli 2008 Le Lucére (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark extraction

and concentrated fruit set the stage. The wine has soft touches of blackberry fruit and plump cherry that are inevitably followed by tight tannins and sharp acidity. This is an astringent, firm wine that should be paired with fatty foods. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

88 SassodiSole 2008 Brunello di Montal-cino. This Brunello presents mature aromas of

cured meat and old spice behind a pulpy berry profile. The acidity is biting and sharp and presents a strange juxtaposition against the roundness of the cherry fruit flavors. The Gullà Group. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $49

87 Cordella 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. This estate delivered a fine Rosso di Montal-

cino in 2008 and less certain results with its Brunello the same year. The issue is the sharp acidity that real-ly makes your mouth pucker. Thankfully, the intense


crispness is balanced by softer spice, black fruit and to-bacco aromas. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

86 Baccinetti 2008 Saporoia (Brunello di Montalcino). Because of its aromas of cured

meat, old leather and dried fruit, this 2008 Brunello seems older than it really is. There’s not much fresh fruit to support the sharp acidity that appears on the finish. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

2007 BRUNELLO

100 Casanova di Neri 2007 Cerretalto (Brunello di Montalcino). It takes only a

few moments before you appreciate the enormity, in-tensity and overall beauty of this landmark wine. Cer-retalto is always a high scoring expression of Brunello, but the ideal conditions of the 2007 vintage elevate it to earthly perfection. Dark and fleshy, the wine deliv-ers ever-evolving aromas of dark fruit, chocolate, spice and tobacco. The acidity is carefully balanced against the wine’s thickness and rich texture. The finish is long, luscious and elegant. Keep this bottle in your cellar 10 years or more. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Se-lection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $270

98 Capanna 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). An amazing and impressive feat of

winemaking, this riserva is so tightly wound with gor-geous aromatic intensity, it peels back, layer after layer, and evolves smoothly the more you leave it in the glass. Not drinking it immediately is difficult because of the delicious quality of fruit on display here and the lush, soft mouthfeel, but this should be at its best after 2018. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $70

98 Valdicava 2007 Madonna del Piano Riser-va (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s an un-

forgettable wine that absolutely makes the case for 2007 being one of the best vintages of late in Montalcino. The wine is broad and polished with masculine tones of dark fruit, leather and tobacco. These aromas evolve so quickly and with such pulsing intensity, the wine comes alive suddenly. There are dusty mineral shadings at the back with tightly textured tannins. Hold 10 more years. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $219

96 Mocali 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Mocali’s beautiful riserva opens with

an inky dark appearance, thick concentration and savory aromas of leather and spice that add one more layer of complexity to an already very enticing wine. At the core, it is redolent of dark fruit and cherry, and the mouth-feel is thick and luscious. The richness of the color is beautiful as is the suppleness of the wine’s texture. Hold 10 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $73

96 Padelletti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This is absolutely gorgeous, with gen-

erous tones of earthy tobacco, leather, cured meat, lico-

rice, smoky ash and crushed mineral. In terms of fruit flavors, it offers cassis, dried raspberry and cherry. The wine should age 10 years or more to allow the tannins to become finer and even more elegant. Holiday Bever-age. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

95 Castello Banfi 2007 Poggio all’Oro Riser-va (Brunello di Montalcino). Castello Ban-

fi delivers a sophisticated and elegant expression with pretty highlights of dark fruit, cassis, crushed spice and even a dusting of black pepper. This classy riserva deliv-ers dark concentration, polished tannins, balanced acid-ity and long fruit-driven persistency. Best in 5–10 years. Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $150

95 Castello Banfi 2007 Poggio alle Mura Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Riserva

Poggio alle Mura really delivers the goods with a dark garnet appearance and huge aromatic intensity that comes forth as dried fruit, cassis, prune, cola, ginger, ce-dar and licorice. The wine shows complexity and bal-ance with endnotes of sweet spice and dark berry. This is a rich, plush and velvety Brunello that will be ready to drink in just a few brief years. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

95 Il Poggione 2007 Vigna Paganelli Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Vigna Paganelli

shows amazing results with a bright fruit quality that translates into black cherry and blackberry. At the back are sophisticated tones of leather, tobacco and light touches of spice that give the wine depth and elegance. The most interesting aspect, however, is the mouthfeel that shows firm but beautifully ripe tannins that will help the wine age 10 years or more. Terlato Wines In-ternational. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

94 Brunelli Martoccia 2007 Riserva (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). This impressive Brunello

Riserva opens with an inky, garnet color, gorgeous aro-matic intensity and bright tones of red cherry, licorice, rum cake and menthol. The wine feels tight and silky in the mouth with great purity and a long, polished feel. The wine can be cellared or consumed in two to three years from now. August Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

94 Canalicchio di Sopra 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva

Brunello delivers a dark and masculine approach with brawny aromas of cured meat, spice, black fruit and prune. Both the density and persistency are impressive and the wine ends with inky concentration and finely textured tannins. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

94 Castello Romitorio 2007 Riserva (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). Castello Romitorio has

been showing impressive results the last five years or so. This Riserva opens with opulent, dark concentration and bright aromas of dark cherry, leather, tobacco and spice. There’s a dusty mineral shading at the back and with a long-lasting finish. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $116

94 Cava d’Onice 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s another gorgeous riserva

from the 2007 vintage that opens with inky dark con-centration and wonderfully intense aromas of blackber-ry, cherry, tobacco and cigar box. The wine feels elegant and smooth on the palate with enough pulp to give it momentum and staying power. It shows a pretty men-thol finish as well. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

94 Collelceto 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful riserva offers

bright aromas of ginger, cola, dried mint, forest berry and cassis. The wine is bright and lively, with dusty tan-nins and balanced acidity. Overall, the wine shows in-credibly clean and polished characteristics that linger long on the palate. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $58

94 Collosorbo 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a lovely wine with sa-

vory notes of spice and leather backed by clean berry freshness and bright menthol. The wine is dark and so-phisticated with a generous mouthfeel and soft, velvety tannins. It shows a brawny, masculine personality that would pair well with game hen with black truffle. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 Conti Costanti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a meaty and masculine

wine that is ready to drink now or within the next two to three years. It shows tight yet savory aromas of cured meat and spice followed by dried berry and cassis. The tannins are silky and polished, and there’s a flash of extra power and flavor intensity on the finish. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $130

94 Fanti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Polished and tight, this riserva opens

with delicate berry tones backed by tobacco and tangy spice. The wine’s personality is elegant and austere with a touch of playful sweet-cherry fruit on the mid palate. Give it 5–10 more years to continue its evolution. Mas-sanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

94 Fornacina 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a touch of milk choco-

late that gives the bouquet a soft and opulent feel. The bouquet opens to cherry, leather, spice, dried herbs and other delicate aromas that evolve and change with time. The wine is fresh and structured in the mouth. Villa Ita-lia. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $92

94 La Fortuna 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). La Fortuna’s riserva shows a

touch of sweetness on the nose with aromas of plump cherry, melted chocolate, exotic spice and fragrant blue flower. In the mouth, Sangiovese Grosso’s natural aus-terity and freshness brings out the wine’s nuanced com-plexity and long persistency. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $79

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94 La Mannella 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is an impressive riserva

Brunello that shows a drinking window of 10 years or more. It feels tight and elegant, with a fine quality of fruit and bright acidity. It delivers a steady stream of cherry fruit, cassis, cola and leather-like aromas with a long, polished finish. What it lacks in richness, it makes up for in persistency and elegance. Superior Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

94 La Poderina 2007 Poggio Abate Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Riserva La Pode-

rina presents an impenetrable wall of aromatic inten-sity with dark concentration and lovely density in the mouth. You’ll recognize dark fruit, polished mineral, leather, tobacco and powdered spice notes. The wine lasts long on the palate, driven by its bold structure. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $79

94 Molino di Sant’Antimo 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva shows

bright cherry fruit and enough natural freshness to guarantee successful cellar aging. Prune, plum, spice and leather give way to dark concentration and richness. On the close, the wine delivers loads of cherry, licorice and menthol nuances. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

94 Podere Brizio 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a vibrant and etched

Brunello riserva that opens with a dark, inky color and pretty aromas of dark fruit and plum followed by tobac-co and spice. The wine leaves a large and long-lasting impression in the mouth with bright acidity and deli-cate nuances of crushed stone and white pepper on the close. Drink after 2018. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

94 Poggio Antico 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a home run from one of

the best producers in Montalcino. With sun drenched, sea-facing vineyards (this is one of the only spots where you can see the shimmering Mediterranean from Mon-talcino), this dense riserva doles out lingering flavors of spice, cherry, leather and tobacco. The acidity is per-fectly balanced against the wine’s soft fruit. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $140

94 Poggio Nardone 2007 Riserva (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). This riserva opens with

bright cherry and blackberry fruit followed by subtle, but pleasingly spicy, tones of tobacco, juniper and cured meat. There’s a touch of sweet fruit on the close with bright acidity and firm tannins. Hold 10 years to cap-ture its evolution over time. Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $96

94 San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Le Lucére Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Nicely

balanced and assembled, this bright riserva opens with plump dark fruit, leather, tobacco, smoke and barbe-cue sauce. The wine shows a large, cheerful personality

with polished tannins and lingering endnotes of spice and dark chocolate. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

94 Tenimenti Angelini 2007 Val di Suga Vig-na Spuntali (Brunello di Montalcino). The

wines from this estate, located on the lower slopes of Montalcino, show excellent consistent in quality, year after year. Aromas include cherry, blueberry, cassis, cola, ginger and tobacco. Good flavor intensity drives a long, rich finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $106

94 Tenuta Vitanza 2007 Andretta (Brunello di Montalcino). A wine made in dedication

from a loving wife to her husband, Andretta opens with dark concentration and generous aromas of dark lico-rice, cherry fruit, leather, tobacco, teriyaki and spice. The inky color is dark and daunting, but the wine is actually more nuanced and elegant than you’d expect, with balanced acidity and fine tannins. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

94 Terralsole 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This is a modern and deeply layered

Brunello with soft cherry and tobacco aromas backed by chocolate, cookie dough, caramel, licorice and even a touch of dusty white pepper. The chewy pulpiness of the fruit is very attractive, giving the wine extra inten-sity and softness in the mouth. Terralsole USA. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $79

93 Altesino 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Altesino’s Brunello is not a simple

wine by any measure. Indeed, beyond the cherry and tobacco aromas you find in Brunello, this wine offers a wide spectrum of dried herbs, cola, ginger and eucalyp-tus tones that make the bouquet really shine. The wine delivers soft richness on the close. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $100

93 Capanne Ricci 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a lot going on in the glass

here. This bright riserva opens with tangy notes of to-bacco, cherry liqueur, spice, black olive, forest floor and oak-driven accents of vanilla and clove. At this young stage, the wine is still slightly astringent, but the tan-nins will soften with time. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $70

93 Castelgiocondo 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). sometimes an annata Brunel-

lo can score higher than the riserva expression from the same vintage. With that extra year of aging, the ripe fruit on the already very plump and fruity 2007 vintage has dropped a tiny notch in intensity. But the elegance, bal-ance and complexity of the wine remains the same. Fo-lio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $120

93 Citille di Sopra 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a pristine quality to this

wine that allows the focus to remain on the excellent quality of fruit on display here. That purity continues

to the palate where the wine boasts bright acidity and finely polished tannins. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

93 Cupano 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This bright Brunello delivers slightly

thorny aromas of bramble and forest floor followed by smoother fruit tones of cherry and cassis. The intensity is big, but not overdone and the wine offer a fine quality to its tannins with a touch of chopped menthol herb on the close. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $180

93 Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This lush and

packed riserva Brunello opens with inky, dark concen-tration and impenetrable density. It shows power and determination in the mouth with velvety tannins, softly extracted fruit and bright cherry notes accented with hints of ginger and crushed herb. The bouquet is less powerful but it works vey nicely considering the over-all momentum of this beautiful wine. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

93 Fattoi 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Smoky ash and brimstone give this

wine an elegant, mineral personality that is coupled with cherry fruit, red rose and wet earth notes. It shows a fine, silky quality, with accents of cola and black lico-rice. Drink after 2016. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

93 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Vigna Mana-petra Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).

You’ll love the dark intensity and generous aromatic offerings of this savory riserva Brunello. Dark cherry, blackberry, spice, leather, tobacco and cigar box all meld into one and drive the wine’s momentum. The mouth-feel is tight and compact with a long, polished close. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $58

93 Fuligni 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Black cherry and berry flavors fill the

balanced mouth of this riserva. There’s a lot of life in this wine and it will age slowly over the years. The freshness is bright and cleansing, and the tannins tends toward a fine and dusty quality. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Gianni Brunelli 2007 Le Chiuse di Sotto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The

bouquet of this riserva offers a very exotic quality of Christmas spice, rum cake, church incense and cured meat. But there’s loads of fresh fruit too, like blackberry, cherry and plum. The mouthfeel is long and polished with a tight and very elegant feel. A Marc de Grazia se-lection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $105

93 La Gerla 2007 Riserva gli Angeli (Brunello di Montalcino). This pretty Brunello riserva

shows elegant tones of candied fruit, prune, leather, rum cake and dried rosemary. The wine is smooth and fine, with silky tannins and a elegantly aged quality.


Don’t wait too long to drink this wine. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 La Velona 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This Brunello riserva presents an in-

teresting juxtaposition between its brawny, masculine mouthfeel and the crispness of the acidity that bright-ens the long finish. In between are attractive tones of cherry, leather, tobacco and spice. The wine would make an excellent companion to pasta and wild boar sauce. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Marchesi Antinori 2007 Pian delle Vigne Vignaferrovia Riserva (Brunello di Mon-

talcino). From the Antinori family estate in Montalci-no, this new riserva shows a concentrated mouthfeel brimming with dark fruit followed by cherry, tobacco, leather, cigar box and pressed red-rose petals. The acid-ity is perfectly balanced and the wine feels soft and lush on the palate. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

93 Máté 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalci-no). This bold and beautiful riserva shows a

modern touch of ripe fruit and spice that drives the wine smoothly over the palate. An array of delicate aromas appear on the backend, including vibrant cherry, cigar box, pomegranate, cassis and lingering notes of smoky tobacco. This is a muscular and intriguing wine from a producer worth watching. Vinilandia USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $94

93 Poggio di Sotto 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio di Sotto has steadily

worked over the years to produce extremely elegant and polished expressions of Brunello that show the best of the local territory. Candied fruit, smoke, light shad-ings of licorice and tobacco, crushed mineral and white pepper appear on the bouquet. But there’s just enough fresh cherry fruit to make your mouth pucker. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $259

93 Poggio il Castellare 2007 Pian Bossoli-no Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This

lovely riserva delivers dark layers of chocolate, black-berry, tangy oak spice, cherry preserves and dried herb. The tannins are polished and fine and the crisp acid-ity would work well with a piece of braised pork. Drink after 2015. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $135

93 San Felice 2007 Campogiovanni Il Quer-cione Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).

This riserva stands out for the intensity and purity of its characteristic Brunello aromas. There’s dark cherry, dried rose petal, cured meat, tobacco, black pepper and cigar box. The mouthfeel is polished, tight and elegant thanks to the streamlined nature of the tannins. Premi-um Brands. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $130

93 San Lorenzo 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva stands apart for its

elegance. The 2007 vintage tends to show more round

fruit and softness than other editions from Montalcino; here, the producer has successfully been able to high-light the wine’s natural freshness and the many nuances of raspberry, cherry cola and dried ginger that you taste on the finish. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

93 Sesta di Sopra 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Available in very small produc-

tion numbers, this riserva Brunello presents aromas of ripe fruit and cherry with background tones of leather, tobacco and cured meat. The wine shows a bold, chewy mouthfeel with velvety soft tannins and sassy endnotes of toasted spice. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $99

93 Sesti 2007 Phenomena Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). You’ll love the pretty garnet

color of this riserva and the freshness of its fruit-driven bouquet. The wine delivers loads of fresh cherry and blackberry, with smoky aftertastes of leather and tobac-co. The mouthfeel is round and generous, and there’s a fresh touch of acidity on the close. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $128

93 Siro Pacenti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a beautiful ensemble of

bright cherry and blackberry set against savory tones of leather, moist earth and cured meat. A tangy touch of licorice and freshly ground black pepper gives the wine lift and immediate aromatic delivery. Drink after 2015. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

93 Tassi 2007 Franci Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva delivers savory aro-

mas of cured meat, leather and rum cake followed by fresh berry tones of cherry and wild blackberry. The complexity is excellent and the wine finishes with bright acidity and fine tannins. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $160

93 Tenimenti Angelini 2007 Val di Suga Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This

young riserva needs a few more years of cellar aging be-fore it reaches its peak drinking window. It opens with bright fruit tones and blackberry followed by spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. The tight tannins and bright acidity will evolve with time. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Tenuta di Sesta 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a freshness to the

mouthfeel of this wine that suggests it has many years to go in order to continue its cellaring evolution. Bright cherry aromas are followed by tones of wet earth, red rose, leather and tobacco. Drink after 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $140

93 Tenuta Vitanza 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The folks at Tenuta Vitanza

have always shown a deft hand when it comes to craft-ing intense and dense Brunellos. This expression shows that trademark extraction followed by pretty aromas of dark cherry, tobacco and prune. But there’s also a dry-

ing touch of dusty mineral that gives the wine elegance and finesse. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

93 Tenuta Vitanza 2007 Signature (Brunello di Montalcino). Like most of the Brunellos

from this estate, Signature opens with dark, inky con-centration and vibrant tones of dark cherry, blackberry preserves, red rose, leather and spice. There’s a touch of ripeness to the fruit and the wine shows a spot of sweet fruits on the close. But the fresh acidity and tight structure holds the wine high. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Bellaria 2007 Assunto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is an austere and tight-

ly assembled wine that doles out fine points of cherry, spice and forest floor that give the wine a bright and pol-ished personality. The mouthfeel is lean and compact, but this is by no means a simple wine. In fact, its nu-anced complexity really shows on the finish. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

92 Camigliano 2007 Gualto Riserva (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Canalicchio Franco Pacenti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva opens

with subtle tones of black olive and dark berry fruit that give the bouquet a broad and determined personality. Fresh acidity pops in in the mouth followed by finely structured tannins and more fruit freshness. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $70

92 Caparzo 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Voted among the best Brunellos by a

group of winemaking peers, Caparzo’s riserva is beau-tifully balanced and layered with chocolate, cherry, leather, blackberry and lingering spice notes. The wine shows freshness and elegance on the finish thanks to the silky nature of the mouthfeel. Vineyard Brands. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $85

92 Castello di Velona 2007 Riserva (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). Not your everyday wine,

this riserva shows brambly aromas of forest floor, wild berry, cedar, licorice, prune and spice cake. The oak tan-nins are dry and firm and the wine shows a bright touch of freshness on the close. Caffo Beverages Inc. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Donna Olga 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). With a deep, dark color and

broad aromatic delivery, this is a wine that evolves beau-tifully in the glass. You are greeted by ripe tones of black fruit, plum cake, prune, leather, licorice stick and Span-ish cedar. The tannins are polished and bright, render-ing a touch of elegance on the close. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Fossacolle 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful riserva opens with

notes of dark cherry and chocolate followed by brambly tones of forest berry and cassis. There’s a very dry and

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astringent quality to the mouthfeel with pretty notes of roasted espresso bean and candied fruit that add a little extra roundness to the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $100

92 Il Palazzone 2007 Brunello di Montal-cino. This dark and masculine Brunello offers

black cherry, cassis, prune and spice aromas backed by touches of chocolate and leather. The wine is smooth and rich on the close with a long, supple finish. Do-maine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $99

92 Innocenti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). There’s an exotic touch of Indian

spice and teriyaki sauce upfront that later segues to bright cherry fruit, leather and tobacco. The fruit feels ripe and soft, and the mouthfeel is firmly structured, polished and tight. Drink after 2015. Mission Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

92 La Fornace 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Oak flavors of spice and vanilla

are not completely integrated in this young wine, but they are well on their way to finding optimal balance. Luscious dark cherry, wet earth, cured meat, black pep-per and clove give the wine a savory, exotic appeal. Give it two or three more years. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $75

92 La Serena 2007 Riserva Gemini (Brunello di Montalcino). This darkly concentrated

wine delivers rich flavors of black fruit, prune, leather, rum cake and cured meat. The wine is layered and com-plex, with touches of acidity and smoky oak flavors that give the wine momentum in the mouth. A Marc de Gra-zia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $105

92 Piccini 2007 Villa al Cortile Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Tenute Piccini

comes from a dynamic Tuscan estate that makes wines at every price point. For their top shelf line, this riser-va Brunello struts dark concentration and notes of jelly roll, dried raspberry, Spanish cedar, tobacco and leather. The wine offers a bright garnet color with power and fine tannins on the finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

92 Renieri 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Renieri’s riserva opens with a darkly

concentrated appearance and savory aromas of dark fruit, prune, cured meat and teriyaki sauce. The wine shows soft, slightly chewy density followed by bright acidity that helps it achieve balance overall. Michelan-gelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

92 SassodiSole 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Generous, with tertiary aromas

of cured meat, leather and tobacco, this is a spicy and savory Brunello riserva that offers more in terms of black pepper, crushed mineral, licorice and prune than it does fresh berry fruit. But that’s not a problem what-

soever because those beautifully aged flavors give the wine a sophisticated twist. The Gullà Group. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $95

92 Talenti 2007 Pian di Conte Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a tradi-

tional and pristine interpretation of Sangiovese Grosso with bright fruit, leather, blue flower and dusty mineral tones at the back. Perfect to pair with red meat or pasta and home made meat sauce, this food-friendly Brunello shows the bright acidity needed to cut through those foods. HP Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Tenuta Friggiali 2007 Agricola Centolani Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark

fruit and a meaty consistency make for a bold and deli-cious first impression. The wine delivers layers of cherry, blackberry spice, leather and spicy tobacco. The wine shows some modern oak touches of vanilla softness, but by no means in an exaggerated fashion. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2007 Vigneto Mana-chiara Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).

Savory notes of pipe tobacco and dark chocolate min-gle with fresh tones of cherry and blackberry. Behind all those pretty aromas are subtle mineral dustings of crushed granite and smoky ash. The mouthfeel is lean, compact and silky in texture. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $107

92 Uccelliera 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). The 2008 “annata” Brunello from this

same producer is one of the best wines made that vin-tage. Its 2007 riserva (released at the same time) shows dark berry, tobacco and spice. The wine is soft and plush with bright acidity and finely textured tannins. Pair this with succulent cuts of red meat. A Marc de Grazia se-lection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $125

92 Villa Poggio Salvi 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a balanced and gen-

erous expression from the wonderful 2007 vintage that shows integrated oak tones against ripe cherry, black-berry and prune. There’s a dusty background note of brimstone and wet river stone that gives this Brunello riserva an extra touch of sophistication. Elegance is this wine’s strong suit. Blue Coast International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $55

91 Il Cocco 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Il Cocco delivers a beautiful Brunello with an inky

dark appearance and savory notes of cured meat, leath-er and dark fruit. There’s a touch of bitter almond on the close that gives the wine brightness and crispness. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Le Chiuse 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A dusty, mineral quality of lead

pencil, brimstone and crushed granite appears at first. It is soon followed by bright cherry, raspberry, leather and tobacco. In the mouth, the wine delivers an elegant

and toned quality of tannins with a touch of sour cherry on the close. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $120

91 Pinino 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This boutique producer delivers a

wine with cherry, blackberry, rum cake, licorice, cola and dark chocolate aromas. The wine shows impressive aromatic intensity with lingering notes of leather and spice on the finish. Total Beverage Solution. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

91 Podere La Vigna 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Smoked bacon, pressed rose

petal, moist pipe tobacco and savory spice give this wine a brawny, masculine personality. There’s a touch of sour cherry on the close, and the wine boasts nice freshness overall. Pair it with polenta and stewed meat sauce. Royalty Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Ridolfi 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Cherry cola, licorice, fresh berry fruit,

cigar box and smoky tobacco give this wine a bright, al-beit slightly rustic, personality. In the mouth, it shows nicely balanced acidity and tannins, providing extra length to the dry, elegant finish. George Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

91 Tornesi 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This Brunello riserva shows bram-

bly characteristics of wild berry, white cherry, forest floor, cola and dried ginger. Warmer notes of tobacco and leather fill in the rear. The acidity and tannins are sharp and tight, and there’s a touch of sour cherry on the close. Overall, there’s nervous elegance here and the wine needs a few more years to unwind. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Villa I Cipressi 2007 Zebras (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva Brunello offers

plenty of dark intensity and fruity concentration with tones of tobacco, cassis, plum, cigar box and blackberry preserves. The thickness and fullness of the bouquet is broken down by the freshness of the mouthfeel and those dry, elegant tannins. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

90 Colombaio 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a touch of apple skin and

citrus on the bouquet of this bold riserva, followed by dark brambly fruit, cassis, leather and prune. The wine delivers bold concentration with some sour cherry fla-vor and tight tannins on the finish. Tanaro River Im-ports LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Riserva (Brunel-lo di Montalcino). Here is a broad and bold

expression of Brunello with a dark appearance, ripe fruit flavors, cured meat, leather and lingering inten-sity. There’s a genuine but one-dimensional feel in the mouth with more heavy tones of tobacco and spice to follow. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $130


90 Lazzeretti 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here’s a riserva Brunello that

opens with inky, dark concentration and tertiary aromas of graham cracker, dried carob power and ripe berry fruit. The wine shows a dusty, powdery side that makes it appear older than it really is. Black currant, cured meat and leather appear on the close. Drink now. Pa-cific Wine Distributors. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $100

90 Marchesato degli Aleramici 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Candied cherry,

fruit liqueur, caramel, licorice and dark chocolate open the bouquet of this beautiful riserva from Montalcino. The wine is lean and bright on the close with fresh acid-ity and bright cherry notes. Fedway Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

89 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This garnet col-

ored Brunello opens with a tiny hint of bruised apple skin that gives the bouquet sudden lift or immediacy. Cherry fruit, leather and tobacco are backed by licorice and cola. In the mouth, the wine is toned with textured tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $52

89 La Collina dei Lecci 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Subtle aromas of

dark fruit and leather give this wine a measured and timid first approach. The intensity builds with each swirl of the glass and the wine shows that typical Sangiovese Grosso tightness and acidity on the close. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $52

88 La Rasina 2007 Il Divasco (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a slightly meaty or stewy

quality to this wine that gives it a bold and savory per-sonality. The wine shows slightly jammy notes of cherry and strawberry with touches of leather and tobacco at the back. That overt ripeness seems limited to this vin-tage of the wine. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

87 La Magia 2007 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This riserva opens with a bright, pur-

plish color and aromas of bruised apple skin, citrus, cherry and prune. There’s a touch of volatility here that might become more pronounced the more this wine is aged. BCI LLC. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

OTHER BRUNELLOS

93 Le Potazzine 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark concentration and savory

aromas of leather, cassis, prune and dark berry charac-terize the elegant 2006 vintage. This riserva also adds tones of cola and licorice at the back as well as a dusty mineral quality as well. The close is long, tight and silky. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American import-ers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $185

92 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2006 Vigneto Poggio Doria Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).

This vineyard-designate riserva shows dark and austere aromas of cassis, dried berry, leather, pipe tobacco, lic-orice, dried ginger and prune. From the elegant 2006 vintage, the wine shows nuanced elegance and a long, silky feel on the close. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Il Cocco 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). This Riserva Brunello shows the el-

egant and slightly astringent characteristics associated with the 2006 vintage. The wine is streamlined and tight with bright berry, cassis, cherry cola and licorice aromas. Let it age 5–10 years. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Donna Olga 2004 Arte (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Arte shows some age on the bouquet

with savory tones of cured meat, bacon, dried fruit and exotic spice. Fresh acidity is backed by a gritty, textured feel to the tannins. The wine has five years or so of aging potential. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

CHIANTI

92 Principe Corsini Fattoria Le Corti 2007 Don Tommaso (Chianti Classico). For full

review see page 6. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 Castello di Volpaia 2007 Il Puro Casa-nova (Chianti Classico). Il Puro (named for

their organically-grown grapes) shows bright and pol-ished notes of cherry and blackberry followed by wet earth, leather and tobacco. The mouthfeel is smooth, rich and dusty-dry. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $158

89 Castello di Bossi 2010 Chianti Classico. Sangiovese from the Castelnuovo Berardenga

area of Chianti Classico benefits from slightly warmer temperatures on average. That extra heat shapes a full and generous quality of fruit that is ripe with blackberry, prune and plum. There’s a touch of earthy clay and to-bacco at the back. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Castello d’Albola 2009 Le Ellere (Chianti Classico). Le Ellere is a straightforward Chi-

anti Classico that shows characteristic Sangiovese aro-mas of wild berry, wet earth and blue flower backed by subtle touches of spice, Spanish cedar and tobacco. The mouthfeel is bright and compact with balanced acidity on the close. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Gagliole 2009 Rubiolo (Chianti Classi-co). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.5% Price: $23

87 Castello di Monastero 2008 Chianti Clas-sico. Castello di Monastero is a subbrand of

Italy’s Lionello Marchesi. This easy and fresh Chianti Classico opens with bright berry tones of dried raspber-ry and cassis backed by pressed blue flower and wet,

earthy tones. Pair this crisp red wine with chicken in cream sauce. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Poggio ai Mandorli 2007 Riserva (Chi-anti Classico). This riserva offers tart fla-

vors of cherry and pomegranate backed by crisp acid-ity and berry freshness. The wine is tight and slightly nervous with medium build and length. G.K. Skaggs, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

85 La Castellina 2009 Chianti Classico. Here’s an easy wine that opens with bright ber-

ry aromas of raspberry and blueberry backed by slight tones of almond nut and cola. Pair it with cheesy pasta or pizza. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Villa Vignamaggio 2010 Castello di Spaltenna (Chianti Classico). This expres-

sion of Sangiovese shows a pungent, polished, wet river-stone aroma that is backed by black olive, blackberry and cherry. Spicy oak-driven aromas of toasted almond and pipe tobacco give the wine momentum on the close. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

84 Buccia Nera 2010 Guarniente (Chianti). Aged only in stainless steel to lock in fresh berry

aromas, Guarniente opens with neutral tones of forest fruit and currant followed by almond skin and cola. There’s a dusty, mineral feel on the close. Maximum Wine. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2011 Poggio Stella (Chianti Colli Senesi).

Fresh and easy, this light red wine would pair with po-tato gnocchi and cream sauce. It offers crisp acidity, me-dium structure and bright endnotes of cherry and fresh raspberry. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO

90 Carpineto 2003 Vigneto St. Ercolano (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). This dark

and brawny wine opens with savory notes of black pep-per and cured meat backed by prune and dried cur-rants. The wine has aged well and shows bright acidity on the long finish. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

88 Fattoria Del Cerro 2009 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This tight and sharp Vino

Nobile offers the bright acidity and chiseled contours to pair with cheesy lasagna or ricotta-filled ravioli. It shows aromas of white cherry and wet earth. Vias Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 La Calonica 2009 Vino Nobile di Mon-tepulciano. Dark fruit, prune and blackberry

aromas are backed by notes of leather, dry spice, white pepper and tobacco. This bright Vino Nobile boasts the

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acidity and simple lines that make it perfect to pair with pasta or lasagna. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $32

88 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2009 Incanto (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).

Incanto shows modern touches of spice and leather backed by dark fruit and prune. In the mouth, the wine shows soft, rich density and one dimensional cherry fruit. D’Aquino Italian Importing Co. Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

TOSCANA REDS

92 Duemani 2009 Altrovino (Toscana). This biodynamic blend of Merlot and Cabernet

Franc opens with an inky, dense appearance and super intense aromas of blackberry, dark spice, tobacco and dried rosemary. The wine boasts a polished and direct feel in the mouth with tight, finely structured tannins. Let it age five years or more. A.I. Selections. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

92 PoderNuovo a Palazzone 2009 Argirio (Toscana). Father and son team, Giovanni

and Paolo Bulgari, have sold their controlling interest in their jewelry dynasty and have now turned their focus to wine. This pure expression of Cabernet Franc from sunny Tuscany shows balance and power without being too extracted or rich. In fact, this is a delicate wine with pure tones of blackberry, leather and spice. Hold 5–10 years. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

92 PoderNuovo a Palazzone 2009 Therra (Toscana). For full review see page 6.

abv: 13.5% Price: $25

91 Castellare di Castellina 2008 Coniale (Toscana). This gorgeous Cabernet Sauvignon

opens with an inky dark color and beautifully intense aromas of blackberry, currant, spice, leather, pipe tobac-co and licorice. The wine delivers weight, density and power that lasts long on the palate and gives momen-tum to it’s thickly layered mouthfeel. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

90 PoderNuovo a Palazzone 2009 Sotirio (Toscana). For full review see page 8.

abv: 13.5% Price: $40

90 Tenuta di Biserno 2011 Insoglio del Cing-hiale (Toscana). This gorgeous super Tuscan

opens with inky dark concentration and bright aromas of dark cherry and prune. It feels soft, lush and creamy in the mouth. Pair it with stewed game meat. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 I Giusti e Zanza 2010 Belcore (Toscana). Belcore, a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20%

Merlot, offers a touch of sour cherry and raw fruit backed by supple spice and leather. There’s a warm, earthy feel to the finish. Vindagra USA. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

89 Tenuta del Buonamico 2009 Il Fortino (Tos cana). Il Fortino is a pure expression

of Syrah that opens with inky dark concentration and smoky notes of leather, black pepper and dried prune. There’s a heft and power here followed by slightly textured tannins. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Castello di Gabbiano 2010 Solatio (Tos-cana). This is a lovely blend of Syrah, Caber-

net Sauvignon and a tiny part Sangiovese that shows dark fruit and spice with blackberry and rum cake at the back. The wine feel soft and plush on the palate. Trea-sury Wine Estates. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $12

88 Grati 1995 Grato Grati Vecchia Annata (Rosso di Toscana). From 1995, the vec-

chia annata (old vintage) referred to in the wine’s name, this Sangiovese-based wine shows dried fruit aromas of prune and dried currant backed by licorice, tar and cola. The wine shows nicely aged aromas with some sour cherry and fine, polished tannins on the close. AHD Vintners. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $61

87 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2008 Poggio Stella Pleos (Rosso di Toscana).

This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens with savory aromas of cured meat and dusty black pepper with some black olive, licorice and dried cassis. The wine shows a brawny personality with tight, slightly gritty tannins on the close. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Col d’Orcia 2011 Spezieri (Toscana). This easy going blended red from Tuscany opens

with bright cherry and blackberry aromas against a backdrop of bitter almond and a touch of Indian spice. The fresh acidity makes this a perfect pasta wine. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

87 Grati 2009 Mondo Canaiolo (Toscana). Mondo Canaiolo is a sort of celebration of the

Canaiolo grape (a little-known variety from central It-aly). The wine is inky dark in color with aromas of ripe fruit, prune and wet earth. It’s a simple wine but shows nice richness on the close. AHD Vintners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Castello di Ama 2010 Il Chiuso (Tos-cana). Here’s an affordable red blend from one

of Italy’s best wine estates. Il Chiuso opens with bright berry and cherry cola with a touch of bitter almond at the back. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24

OTHER TUSCAN REDS

93 Collemassari 2007 Lombrone Riserva (Montecucco). This riserva shows beautiful-

ly balanced notes of black fruit and spice that contrast each other seamlessly. In the mouth, the wine is elegant

and fine without being too powerful or sense. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

90 La Calonica 2010 Girifalco (Cortona). Girifalco is an interesting expression of San-

giovese that shows a very bold and modern side to this characteristic grape from central Italy. Dark blackberry and prune are backed by thick concentration with lin-gering tobacco and chocolate. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

90 Querciavalle 2007 Armonia Famiglia Losi (Colli della Toscana Centrale). Loads of

black fruit intensity is backed by soft notes of chocolate, leather and spice. The wine boasts a very plump and round style that makes it a pleasure to savor. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $46

87 Fattoria di Magliano 2010 Heba (Morel-lino di Scansano). Heba is a straightforward

and balanced Morellino (Sangiovese with tiny percent-ages of other grapes) that shows bright cherry and black-berry backed by a simple tone of toasted almond. Pair it with spaghetti and red sauce. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Il Marroneto 2009 Ignaccio (Rosso di Montalcino). Ignaccio is a balanced and fresh

Rosso di Montalcino with pretty tones of cherry and dried currant followed by black spice and wet earth. The wine would pair splendidly with pasta and creamy artichoke sauce. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33

ROSÉ

81 Tenuta del Buonamico 2011 Rosato (Tos-cana). There’s an odd note of jammy fruit and

cherry tomato on the bouquet that is followed by dis-jointed notes of raspberry and pear. A touch of bitter almond appears on the close. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $53

TUSCAN WHITES

89 Cabreo 2010 La Pietra Chardonnay (To-scana). La Pietra boasts sunny, golden high-

lights that make for a bright and attractive appearance. A beautifully dense and creamy mouthfeel is backed by aromas of vanilla cream, apricot and lemon meringue. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

89 Tenuta del Buonamico 2009 Vasario Pi-not Bianco (Toscana). Vasario is a thick and

super creamy expression of Pinot Bianco (with some Sauvignon Blanc) that delivers a super long mouthfeel fueled by intense aromas of apricot and honey with a touch of spicy saffron. Pair this wine with Indian dishes rich in turmeric and curry. Vintners Estate Direct Im-porting. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $134


88 I Giusti e Zanza 2011 Nemorino (Tos-cana). A Tuscan blend of Trebbiano and Semi-

llon, Nemorino opens with a light golden color and soft aromas of vanilla cream, apricot and lemon mousse. The wine feels weighty and creamy and would pair with risotto or scampi. Vindagra USA. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Vigliano 2010 L’Erta Chardonnay (Tos-cana). L’Erta is a Tuscan expression of Char-

donnay that opens with a bright, golden color and spicy aromas of candied fruit, citrus, apricot, pear, honey and a touch of spicy saffron. The wine sports a bold, satu-rated style. Colline d’Italia. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Mazzei 2011 Codice V Vermentino (Tos-cana). This coastal Tuscan Vermentino delivers

aromas of citrus, peach and white flower that give the wine a bright and beautiful bouquet. Touches of sweet honey and almond appear on the close. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Prelius 2011 Vermentino (Maremma To-scana). A subbrand of Chianti Classico’s Cas-

tello di Volpaia, Prelius is an organic white wine that bursts open with bright aromas of citrus, dried hay and green lime. The wine is incredibly refreshing and clean. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

86 Brancaia 2011 Il Bianco (Toscana). Il Bianco is a Tuscan blend of Sauvignon Blanc,

Gewürztraminer and Sémillon that opens with fresh aromas of lemon zest and lime followed by light touches of spring flower and bitter almond. The wine is light, in-formal and will pair with raw seafood. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Campo al Mare 2011 Vermentino (Bol-gheri). Fragrant notes of cut grass, kiwi and

white flower open the bouquet of this Vermentino from sunny, coastal Tuscany. The wine is crisp and tight with pretty nuances of lemon and lime on the close. Ko-brand. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA

RED BORDEAUX

MÉDOC

91 Château Potensac 2010 Médoc. Firm and prominent yet dusty tannins show one side of

the richness of the vintage. The other is the ripe, black fruits, with acidity in fine balance. This estate, under the same ownership as Léoville las Cases, is serious Médoc, needing to age. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Potensac 2010 La Chapelle de Potensac (Médoc). The second wine of Châ-

teau Potensac, La Chapelle is rich and smooth, the tan-nins a secondary consideration to the ripe Merlot fruits. Already well integrated, this is for medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Goulée 2010 Médoc. Earthy in character, this is powerful and rich, yet somewhat rustic. It

has concentrated ripe fruit, dark and dense, best at the end with its juiciness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

SAINT-ESTÈPHE

97 Château Calon-Ségur 2010 Saint- Estèphe. This is an architectural wine, very

classical in its structure like so many of the top wines of 2010. It’s powered by ripe tannins and beautiful black currant fruits. While the wine is gorgeously ripe, it also has a powerful dark and structured character. For long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $110

96 Château Montrose 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This is such an elegant wine that has all the

structure of the vintage. Surrounding the tannins, the wine is sweet and ripe, with smokiness from the wood. It’s powerful, elegant and sophisticated with a strong sense of poise. The tannins promise long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 Saint- Estèphe. This is a complex and rich wine dom-

inated by superripe fruit. It is a wine of extremes, of fruit, of dark tannins allied to some bitterness from the black chocolate extract. Ripe plums and sweet black fruits are given a lift at the end with bright acidity. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Capbern Gasqueton 2010 Saint-Estèphe. Heavily dominated by Cabernet Sau-

vignon, this is a big, bold, black wine, full of immense, smoky tannins. It has a rich structure, followed by de-liciously juicy acidity. The dry tannins of Saint-Estèphe are well cushioned by the rich fruit. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $28

93 Château Montrose 2010 La Dame de Montrose (Saint-Estèphe). Montrose’s sec-

ond wine has something of the same gravity as the top wine from the estate. It shows firm tannins as well as black currant fruits. These flavors are followed by spice, leather and drying tannins. It does have a sense of el-egance that promises well for its mid-term aging, —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Tronquoy-Lalande 2010 Saint-Estèphe. A rich, chocolaty wine, with the

structure right up front. Under the same ownership as Château Montrose, this is a wine that reveals all its at-tractions early with sweet blackberry fruit and powerful tannins. There is some freshness as well, giving fruiti-ness and acidity at the end. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 Les Pa-godes de Cos (Saint-Estèphe). This big,

rich, chocolaty wine is powerfully built with consider-able extract. The wine is huge and solid, its tannins ex-

treme and dense. At the same time, the juicy blackberry fruit drives the wine into an opulent aftertaste. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

PAUILLAC

100 Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 Pauil-lac. Almost black in color, this stunning

wine is gorgeous, rich and dense. It’s grand and pow-erful, with a strong sense of its own importance. The beautiful tannins and the fragrant black currant fruits are palpable. It’s a great wine, with huge potential. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

99 Château Latour 2010 Pauillac. Stern, al-most severe initially, this great wine takes time

to show its immense fruit power. Black currant and blackberry notes are packed into the wine, along with an impressive array of spices from new wood that gives a more exotic element. At the end, though, it has a fine, structured sense of proportion. Obviously for aging over decades, so don’t drink before 2022. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

98 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 Pauil-lac. A dense, smooth and opulent wine bursting

with ripe Cabernet Sauvignon flavors. It’s regal and well structured, balancing the natural exuberance of Mou-ton with a more severe side. This is a wine with power, yet not without its charms from the fruitiness and final acidity. This great wine will age many, many years. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

98 Château Pontet-Canet 2010 Pauillac. Dense, yes, but this is also a handsome wine

that balances complex tannins with pure black currant fruits that shine. This biodynamic wine has a generous, full and rich feel, ripe with just a touch of restraint. The greatness of the wine shows in its purity with a decep-tive simplicity that hides the final complex tannins and structure. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Latour 2010 Les Forts de Latour (Pauillac). Powerful, yet beautiful and smooth-

ly structured. It has ripe, rich fruits, spice and sweet acidity. As a contrast, there is a dense core of tannins where the wine shows some severity and youth. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Duhart-Milon 2010 Pauillac. Juicy black currant fruit mingles with bright

acidity and dark-chocolate tannins. This often over-looked château, with the same production team as Lafite-Rothschild , has an intense and concentrated 2010, balanced superbly between firmness and fruiti-ness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 Car-ruades de Lafite (Pauillac). A dense and

very tannic second wine from Lafite-Rothschild. Ripe fruits from juicy Merlot balance its power and give sweetness. It’s a rich, fine wine, with the tannins of the

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vintage never too prominent. For medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 Le Petit Mouton (Pauillac). This is a soft wine,

dense and ripe. Any tannins are covered by sweet black-berry fruit flavors. This has attractive spice, final juici-ness and bright acidity. A wine for early drinking. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

SAINT-JULIEN

100 Château Léoville Las Cases 2010 Saint-Julien. A hugely powerful wine,

full of dark, brooding tannins. It’s a wine for seriously long-term aging, a sculptural vision of classic Bordeaux structure with with classy, ripe blackberry fruits. It has fresh acidity and an immense full-bodied character, cut through with mineral acidity. A great wine, with great potential. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

96 Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2010 Saint-Julien. A grand wine, it has great ripeness and

richness, majestic in its structure and upright character. It is concentrated, perfumed and opulent. The style of Ducru Beaucaillou is both generous and powerful, and obviously ageworthy. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Clos du Marquis 2010 Saint-Julien. A great wine, packed with black currant fruits,

sweet tannins and beautiful acidity. Made by the team at Léoville las Cases, this wine reveals an elegant, re-strained structure, ripe and delicious fruit and a darker, tighter texture for aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Croix de Beaucaillou 2010 Saint-Julien. No longer a second wine of Ducru-Beaucaillou ,

but a wine from its own separate vineyard, Croix de Beaucaillou is impressive. Firm while also rich, it is firmly tannic, superripe and packed with great dark plum and berry fruits. Fruit and structure well balanced together. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Léoville Las Cases 2010 Le Pe-tit Lion (Saint-Julien). Attractively ripe, this

second wine from Château Léoville las Cases is initially fruity. The structure comes through only slowly to re-veal itself.The wine is ripe yet shot through with acidity. Likely to develop quickly. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Lalande-Borie 2010 Saint- Julien. Classic, ripe Saint-Julien with all its

richness, tempered with elegance. It is deliciously fruity, packed with blackberry fruit surrounding the structure. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

MARGAUX

98 Château Margaux 2010 Margaux. A great wine that is just starting out. The high pro-

portion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend gives the structured, black currant character. Dark chocolate and layers of wood are forward, revealing how young the wine is. And then the fruit, so rich and powerful, brings deliciousness to the firm, dense structure. Age for many years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

97 Château Palmer 2010 Margaux. While out-wardly this wine is generous and opulent with

great juicy sweetness, the core is structured and power-ful. The wine is concentrated and complex, with dark tannins and a brooding, dense texture. This is a wine with a long-lived future. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Margaux 2010 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux (Margaux). Dense

and structured, this second wine from Château Mar-gaux is magnificent. There are hints of bitter chocolate, along with tarry fruit. It is very textured, just hinting at extraction. The tannins are rounded and velvet-like in character. It’s a wine for medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Palmer 2010 Alter Ego de Châ-teau Palmer (Margaux). The second wine of

Château Palmer is a rich, floral, smooth and perfumed wine. It has layers of dark plums and almost sweet acidi-ty, with tannins that are buried in the voluptuous palate. The finish shows intense black currant acidity. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

POMEROL

96 Château Trotanoy 2010 Pomerol. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.

abv: 14.5% Price: $475

95 Château la Fleur-Pétrus 2010 Pomerol. A majestic wine, grand in every sense. It has

weight, the firmest of tannins and an immense sense of structure. This neighbor of Château Pétrus is firmly dense, showing both the fruits and the tannins in bal-ance. Give this wine at least 10 years in the cellar. Vin-tus LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $398

94 Château Hosanna 2010 Pomerol. This is a wine that is all tannin at this young stage. It is

firmly dry and structured with a tight, dark texture. It has the concentrated fruit to sustain this initial severity, but will need many more years to show its power. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

94 Château Providence 2010 Pomerol. Both rich and dense, this wine shows the ripeness of

the Merlot in 2010. It has firm fruit, touches of dark chocolate and licorice. With its concentration, this small vineyard is now in good form, producing ageworthy wines. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $169

92 Château Latour à Pomerol 2010 Pomerol. Solidly based on its firm tannins, this is an im-

pressive wine. Acidity and blackberry fruits are sewn together by the tannic structure. There is a touch of

minerality as well, lending the wine to the promise of long-term aging. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $190

92 Château Nenin 2010 Pomerol. A wine that is deliciously perfumed from the 25% Cabernet

Franc in the blend. The wine has very ripe black fruits, with contrasting intense acidity, toast and dark choco-late. It’s powerful and concentrated, with good aging potential. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Lagrave 2010 Pomerol. A wine with great density. Along with firm tannins, this

has a dark and chunky character. Under the tannins, great swathes of fruit surge through the tannins, bring-ing out black-currant-juice flavors. Pasternak Wine Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

89 Château Nenin 2010 Fugue de Nenin (Pomerol). This is soft, round and beautifully

ripe with just a touch of perfume. A rich wine that is only lightly structured, juicy and forward. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Bourgneuf 2010 Pomerol. Tense and firmly tannic, this wine is still very young.

Berry and black currant fruit are still dominated by a dry character. The wine will take time toward its slow maturity. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Lafleur-Gazin 2010 Pomerol. Smoky flavors give the fruit a firm feel, with the

black currant juiciness somewhere in the background. The wine is dark and tannic, dense and austere. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

SAINT-ÉMILION

100 Château Cheval Blanc 2010 Saint-Émilion. This is the finest Cheval Blanc for

many years. It is, quite simply, magnificent. The wine shows the greatness of Cabernet Franc in the vintage, with 57% of the variety in the blend. It is beautifully structured and perfumed with velvety tannins, balanced acidity and swathes of black-currant and black-cherry fruits. It’s well on course to becoming a legendary wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.7% Price: $NA

99 Château Ausone 2010 Saint-Émilion. A big, bold wine with unbelievable power and

concentration. Low yields and a dominance of Caber-net Franc have produced an immensely concentrated wine. Still very young, this magnificent wine holds the promise of great aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

97 Vieux Château Certan 2010 Saint-Émilion. A beautiful, velvety smooth wine, un-

usually for Vieux Château Certan dominated by Mer-lot. It has tannin, to be sure, but these are conveyed through the ripe fruit and the sweetness of the black-berry flavors. It is opulent, although never too much,


retaining its elegance. Age for many years. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

96 Château Figeac 2010 Saint-Émilion. This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wine always

stands out as a powerhouse of impressive tannins. In 2010, it is complex with a dense structure, tight miner-al texture and dense wood. Underneath, the ripe black fruits bring the promise for the long-term future. Give this wine at least 10 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 2010 Saint-Émilion. In the opulent style of superripe

Merlot, this is a rich wine that delivers generous black currant fruits with tannins that are dense but not over-whelming. It is finely structured, proud of its elegance, stylish fruit and tannin balance. The wine is set for long-term aging, but will certainly be drinkable in 5–10 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Belair-Monange 2010 Saint-Émilion. For full review see page 3. Cellar Se-

lection. abv: NA Price: $375

95 Château Canon 2010 Saint-Émilion. Pow-erful, complex and ripe, this is a magnificent

and concentrated wine. Juicy blackberry fruits, tight acidity and finely integrated tannins give a smooth, rich texture. This beautiful wine has long-term aging poten-tial. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château la Gaffelière 2010 Saint-Émilion. A big, bold, ripe wine with firm tannins and

dark, solid fruits. The wine has acidity coming from the black currant flavors. Continuing the impressive quality of wines from La Gaffelière, it has weight and a rich feel to it, along with a tight, mineral final texture. This is a wine that is elegant as well as powerful. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Le Dôme 2010 Saint-Émilion. This is a per-fumed wine, dominated by Cabernet Franc.

Black fruits are layered with wood, dry tannins and a beautiful aromatic quality. The wine is deep and com-plex, built for the long term with its power, density and considerable elegance. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $235

95 Vieux Château Mazerat 2010 Saint- Émilion. This is a big and smoky wine that’s

very concentrated. It shows both the power and the structure of the vintage, as well as balances fresh, fra-grant fruit. Dry tannins and the dusty texture are finely integrated into a wine that layers wood, intense acidity and great long-term potential. World’s End LLC. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $130

94 Château Ausone 2010 La Chapelle d’Ausone (Saint-Émilion). This second wine

of Château Ausone is powerful, dominated by firmly

tannic wood-aged Merlot. The wine also has an intense, juicy fruitiness and hints of spiced wood cake. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Beausejour-Duffau-Lagarrosse 2010 Saint-Émilion. A solid and dense wine,

showing the big improvements at this château. It hovers deliciously between acidity and ripe, forward fruit. The touch of smokiness from the wood aging goes with the fragrant, juicy black cherry and berry fruits. The wine will certainly age over many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Pavie Macquin 2010 Saint- Émilion. A juicy and fruity wine that’s sus-

tained by attractive tannins, giving both freshness and a balance of structure. The bright acidity lifts the wine while the tannins promise future aging. The wine is styl-ish, almost understated, but likely to develop impres-sively. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Clos Fourtet 2010 Saint-Émilion. This cC-hunky, fruity wine is full bodied and rich. It

shows all the structure and weight of the vintage allied to ripe black fruits and a dense texture edged with min-erality. Still very firm and youthful, it will need many years to mature. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Les Astéries 2010 Saint-Émilion. Austere and severe, this single-vineyard wine is very

much a product of its limestone terroir. It has a mineral intensity that pushes through the tannins and black cur-rant fruit, giving a powerful, dark character. Firm and structured, this is a wine for the long term. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $200

93 Château Magdelaine 2010 Saint-Émilion. As so often with Magdelaine, the wine shows

severity and dark tannins. In 2010, that has produced a complex and dense wine that has firm tannins, dark black fruits and a feeling of austerity. It will always be a firm wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Trottevieille 2010 Saint-Émilion. An extracted wine, showing bitter chocolate as

much as fruit. There is a core of dark tannins, very firm, with licorice, wood and a tight texture. Often Trottevie-ille shows this austerity when young, and this 2010 is no exception. It will develop slowly into a serious and con-centrated wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Le Carré 2010 Saint-Émilion. This is a hugely rich wine with great black-plum fruit fla-

vors. It’s powerfully concentrated, densely tannic, solid and chunky. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $135

92 Château Moulin Saint-Georges 2010 Saint-Émilion. A complex wine that shows its

power through a subtle mix of tannins and solid fruits. It has the freshness as well as the structure of the vintage. Definitely for aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Troplong Mondot 2010 Saint-Émilion. Clocking in at 16%, this is a massive

wine. Heady smoky wood aromas have given the wine a dry character. The immense palate has bitterness, extract and a solid core of tannins. It has considerable weight, just beginning to develop, although the alcohol does show through at the end. —R.V. abv: 16% Price: $NA

91 Château Haut-Simard 2010 Saint- Émilion. Firm and solid tannins with a dry core

offers a dark character and density. Along with this, the wine has a ripe, fruity character that’s packed with acid-ity and layered with wood. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Château Laforge 2010 Saint-Émilion. Dominated by juicy Merlot, the wine has

weight, density and a full, fruity blackberry character. This generosity is balanced by a restraining dry, tannic core. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65

89 Château Teyssier 2010 Saint-Émilion. There is great fruit on this ripe, full-bodied

wine. The fruit is already well integrated with the tan-nins, giving a juicy feel and a black currant fragrance. Rich, open and soft, finishing with an elegant structure. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $35

88 Château de Fonbel 2010 Saint-Émilion. A rich, oak-laden wine that shows fine ripe fruits.

There are juicy blackberry and dried fruit flavors allied to a light structure that results in a rich, open and gen-erous wine. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Château La Serre 2010 Saint-Émilion. This is a richly structured and deliciously juicy

wine. The tannins are fully integrated into the fruit. The downside of the wine is a touch of greenness, particu-larly in the acidity. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

87 Château Simard 2010 Saint-Émilion. A light and fragrant wine with fresh acidity.

There’s an attractive blackberry character that’s already appealing, with just a touch of structure to hold it to-gether. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

98 Château Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac- Léognan. A firm and serious wine, complex

and complicated, one of the finest wines from 2010 vin-tage. It has a rich undertow of black fruits, while the tannins dominate at this stage. To add to the powerful range of flavors, the wine has an edge of severity that bodes well for its long-term future. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

97 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2010 Pessac-Léognan. A beautifully dense, ripe

wine, its intense acidity balanced by an opulent struc-

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ture and gorgeous fruits. The texture is smooth and vel-vety, while never losing sight of the powerful structure. This elegant and powerful wine will age for many years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

96 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2010 Pessac-Léognan. A beautifully ripe wine with great

black fruits that burst through the classic tannins. In its richness and in its structure, it combines the best of the vintage. Dark, complex, fruity and very rich, a magnifi-cent wine for long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Haut-Bailly 2010 Pessac- Léognan. A powerful and complex wine from

an estate performing on its top form. Solid tannins, lay-ers of wood and dark fruits combine to give a wine that offers both richness and a dense structure. This Haut-Bailly should age impressively and for many years. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $160

95 Château Pape-Clement 2010 Pessac-Léognan. A smooth, dense wine, ripe and pol-

ished. It brings out a modern view of Bordeaux, dark and concentrated, hinting at the new-wood aging. At the same time, the wine has a serious edge that prom-ises proper aging. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Domaine de Chevalier 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Firm and closed, this is a wine with

so much power and concentration. It also has beautiful fruit, smooth and opulent, that merges into the complex tannins and brooding, dark structure. It will take many years for this wine to open up. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Malartic-Lagraviere 2010 Pessac- Léognan. Continuing its impres-

sive series of wines, this red from Malartic-Lagravière has all the structure and density of the vintage, packed with plum and black currant fruits. The acidity is almost sweet in its richness, blending easily into the dark tex-ture. Age for many years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Carbonnieux 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Big, dusty tannins are forward on

this firmly structured wine. Very dense in its character and style, serious and dark, it will develop slowly as its more juicy side begins to show through. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château de Fieuzal 2010 Pessac- Léognan. This is a fine, beautifully controlled

wine. Its dark black currant fruits and firm dense tex-ture are restrained, stylish and delicious. At the same time, the fruits offer a smooth, juicy aftertaste. Keep for 6–7 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Latour-Martillac 2010 Pessac-Léognan. This is an austere, structured wine.

Its tannic framework currently dominates, giving the impression of a firm wine. It feels like classic Bordeaux,

upright and dense. This makes for a wine that will need several years’ aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Olivier 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Continuing the great improvements at this es-

tate, this 2010 is firm and solidly tannic, showing sever-ity. As a contrast, it also shows acidity and black currant fruits that offer weight and richness. A balanced wine with a good future. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Couhins 2010 Pessac- Léognan. Couhins is based around a research center,

so it’s not surprising that it makes a technically flaw-less wine. But there is much more to this 2010 with its dense tannins, spicy fruit, black plums and beautiful, balanced acidity. Age for 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Couhins-Lurton 2010 Pessac-Léognan. A complex wine with firm acidity

and ripe black currant notes. The fruit is juicy, and the palate finely structured. The small property, owned by André Lurton, is improving with every vintage. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Bouscaut 2010 Pessac- Léognan. For full review see page 6.

abv: NA Price: $30

BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

91 Château Chantemerle 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Densely tannic while also fruity,

this is a product of ripe fruits that give a black currant flavor as well as a solid structure. The acidity gives great lift to the end of this finely made wine. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

91 Château Manon la Lagune 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A big, ripe and juicy

wine packed with black fruit notes and laced with acid-ity. The tannins offer a contrast to the fruitiness, bring-ing balance and structure. This is an impressive wine, the smoky aftertaste bringing out the wood aging. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

90 Château Glorit 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bor-deaux. A eucalyptus oil aroma offers a smooth

and fragrant introduction to this ripe, rich and juicy wine. Its polished feel works, offering both richness and solid tannins. It’s for aging over at least five years. Vin-tage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

90 Château Grand Moulin 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A wine that’s straight down the

line, firmly structured and with solid fruit for the future. There is weight and richness, a sense of power waiting to show in the future. With its density, anticipate aging this wine for at least 6–7 years. Peerless Importers. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

90 Château Haut Bertinerie 2010 Elegance (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Attractive

mints and wood tannins are balanced by generous black-berry fruit and a chocolate flavor that lends extra rich-ness. It has great aging potential; keep this concentrated wine for 5–6 years. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

90 Château Haut Peyrefaure 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. There’s a great struc-

ture here, and the wine is rich with prominent, firm tannins. It has the long-term potential to be an impres-sively structured wine, with the fruit balancing it out. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

90 Château Ricaud 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a big, tannic wine, where

the weight of the fruit complements the firm structure, making it a powerful wine with concentration and the potential for good aging. There are hints of the juicy black fruits to come; give this wine at least five years. Wine Sources. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

89 Château de Trousse 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Rich, concentrated and fruity, this

wine is ripe and full of blackberry fruits with hints of strawberry. Its tannins are a soft, round envelope for the fruit. Expect this wine to age relatively quickly over the next three years. Fine Terroirs LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

89 Château Gauthier 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A packed wine, its ripe fruits are a

warm pleasure. It has all the structure of the year but in fine measure, lending density and richness to the palate. It’s a wine for aging; give it at least five years. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

89 Château Mondésir 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A firmly structured wine with suffi-

cient fruit to sustain the structure. It is solid and chunky, with hints of mint to go with the black currant flavors. It’s serious while also reflecting the fragrant fruits of 2010. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château du Bailli 2010 Tradition (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This is a fresh and

fruity wine, its acidity coming through in crisp black currant fruits. It’s lively, with the tannins relegated to a supporting role. Give this attractive wine a couple of years, although it’s also good enough to drink now. Vin-tage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

88 Château Fontenelle 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A big, bold, fruity wine, this has

great tannins, ripe black-currant fruit and an attractive sense of structure. It has all the juiciness and freshness of 2010, but is a wine for aging over 3–4 years. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

88 Château Gigault 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Firmly tannic yet with enough


sense of juicy fruit to act as a balance, this is a fine, rich wine, showing power and concentration with a solid, ripe structure. Give this wine at least five years to soften and round out. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $27

88 Château Haut la Pointe 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Big, bold and juicy, with ripe

black fruits that dominate the rich tannins. The power and concentration both promise a good future for this solid, full-bodied wine, so keep for 4–5 years. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

88 Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2010 Grande Réserve (Blaye Côtes de Bor-

deaux). While it has sufficient tannin, the wine also has a feeling of generous black currant and berry fruits. It’s dry with considerable concentration, but it’s future looks good, so keep for 5–6 years. Wines & Beyond Im-port. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

87 Château des Matards 2010 Nathan (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Obviously wood aged,

the wine is rich and spicy, with bold fruits and rounded tannins. This is full of modern, smooth fruit flavors and will age relatively quickly. Chateau Vegas Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Maison Neuve 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A dry, very firm wine, currently

dominated by hard tannins. Woody flavors and a dense texture are present characteristics, with the fruit less in evidence. It could soften, because there is a hint of juici-ness at the end. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

86 Château du Bailli 2010 Grande Réserve (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This mint- and

new-wood-flavored wine boasts ripe tannins and lush fruit. It feels weighty, perhaps almost too rich, while the tannins have a bitter-chocolate edge to them. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

86 Château Maison Neuve 2010 Clotilde (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Dusty tannins

push to the front, resulting in a firm, wood-aged wine that shows smokiness, ripe blackberry flavors and a firm core. This should be at its best in 2–3 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Château Haut Colombier 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a wine for short-

term aging. It is rich and juicy, deliciously fruity right now. Give it 2–3 years to enjoy its black fruits and fresh acidity. A-Wine USA LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

84 Château Grand Maréchaud 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. High acidity cuts

through this wine from the get-go. The tannins also show a hard edge. This is a wine for the future, always with a sense of austerity and minerality. Monsieur Tou-ton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23

84 Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Almost too fruity, the

wine has red berry fruits in profusion. What is missing is the tannin to hold it together, making this a fruity wine to drink soon. Wines & Beyond Import. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

83 Château Haut Canteloup 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Mint aromas speak of

the wood used in aging this wine. With some burnt tan-nin character, it’s perhaps not a wine that will show great fruit. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

83 Château Monconseil-Gazin 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Very dry and hard, with

lean black currant fruits. This is likely to remain a tough and extracted wine. Jeff Wellburn Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

83 Château Saint-Urbain 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A firm and tannic wine, with

a hard-edge feel to it. The structure is dry and tough, leaving little room for the fruit, even in the future. Vin-tage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

83 Château Seguin 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Earthy aromas are an off-putting

start to this heavily tannic wine. It tastes bitter and ex-tracted, the fruit worked too hard during fermentation. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

83 Château Tour Saint-Germain 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. The fruity, perfumed

character shows instant red berry aromas, but the old-wood flavor doesn’t quite chime with the fruit, giving a slightly muddled feel to the wine. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

83 Château Tour Saint-Germain 2010 Ele-gance (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This

wine has an unusual candy-flavored character. Its tan-nins are fine, and there is structure, but the final charac-ter is unbalanced. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

82 Château des Tourtes 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Bell peppers and green herbs

as well as dark tannins are the main characters of this very dry, bitter wine. Campbell Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

82 Château la Petite Roque 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A diffuse wine without

focus. The tannins and the fruit are some way apart, while the final flavor is dry and tough. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

81 Château Dubraud 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Aromas and flavors of rhubarb and

red pepper dominate, resulting in a wine that is sharp and unbalanced. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

91 Château Suau 2010 L’Artolie (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Aromas of freshly-sawn

wood set the scene on a wine that is full of new-wood toast and vanilla flavors. The fruit is also present, result-ing in a wine that has balanced potential in maybe 4–5 years. A fine effort. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

90 Château Carignan 2010 Prima (Cadil-lac Côtes de Bordeaux). Heavy wood aging

dominates this rich wine at this stage. That should in-tegrate to leave an almost California ripeness from the 100% Merlot. It has a full and rounded structure, cush-ioned by generous fruits. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Château du Juge 2010 Cru Camille (Ca-dillac Côtes de Bordeaux). A solid, fruity

wine supported by ripe tannins. The wine has a good sense of its rich self, a fine presence of ripe plum fruit flavors and a warm texture. There is a fine juicy after-taste. Petit Pois. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

90 Château La Caussade 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A full-bodied wine, at-

tractively ripe and fruity. New-wood vanilla gives some support, while the fruit tannins offer a firm structure for the generous black fruits. For aging over 3–4 years. Vi-num Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26

90 Château Léon 2010 Prestige (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). A classically structured,

stalky Bordeaux, with added superripe fruit. The result is a wine with firm, young tannins that merge with the juicy sweet black currant and intense fruitiness to finish. For medium-term aging. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Château Saint-Nicholas 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A solidly based wine

that offers both rich black fruits and fragrant acidity. It has weight and great concentration, with a long-term future. Keep for 4–5 years for the best effect. Jandell Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

89 Château Bourbon 2010 La Rose Bourbon (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). At the start,

this is a firmly extracted wine that then reveals ripe fruit flavors and attractive acidity. There’s some weight here, along with a good depth of rich flavors. Age for 2–3 years. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

89 Château de Marsan 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A ripe wine, its tannins cush-

ioned by the full fruit flavors. There are licorice and dark chocolate notes along with flavorful plum skins. It

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has weight and structure as well and should age over the medium-term. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château du Biac 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A complex wine, showing full, ripe

fruit flavors as well as dense tannic character. It’s a big wine, touched by some bitterness yet also showing good aging potential. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $62

88 Château Baracan 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. This wood-laden wine, spicy and

toasty, also offers plenty of fruit weight, giving richness to the palate. Fresh black currants carry through to fin-ish the wine with a lift. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Carignan 2009 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. Powerful, ripe fruit, now be-

ginning to open up, is the dominant character of this wine. It’s full in the mouth, packed with black plums and ripe damsons and finished with soft tannins and a slight warmth. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Château de Laville 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A full, rich wine, showing red

fruits at their best. It has structure and layers of bright acidity. It’s not a wine for long aging, likely to be at its best in three years time. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

88 Château de Ricaud 2010 Réserve des Coteaux (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). A

fruity, structured wine, dense and dark-hued, its black currant fruits giving a sense of lighter acidity. It’s just coming into balance, so it will likely age well over the medium term. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

88 Château Suau 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A firmly structured wine, dry to the

core. The tannins feel extracted, giving some bitterness, yet the fruit shows potential juiciness. While it’s always going to be a severe wine, it should be a great food part-ner. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $27

87 Château de Laville 2009 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. The high percentage (25%) of

Cabernet Franc in the blend gives this smooth wine a fragrant character. Ripe and accessible, with soft tannins and sweet blackberry fruits. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château des Mille Anges 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A warm and rich wine,

full of ripe black fruits, allied to the juicy acidity of the vintage. Tannins come in as a firm support to suggest some aging potential. Vineyard Road. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Reynon 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. With polished, new-wood aromas

and flavors, this is a smooth wine. Hints of mint go with the black plum notes and the firmer, bitter chocolate

flavors. In a modern style, this is likely to age quickly. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château Carignan 2010 L’Orangerie de Carignan (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux).

This is the fruity side of Carignan, a wine with black currants and bright fruit flavors. It has structure from the 40% Cabernets in the blend and a smoky finish that adds some spice. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Château de Lestiac 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. There’s heavy wood here, a

powerhouse of toast. The fruit is subdued at this young stage, but is here, so give this ripe and potentially juicy wine time to integrate. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26

85 Château de Ricaud 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. Bright and juicy, this is a fresh,

red-fruited wine, ripe and fragrant. The tannic element is almost an afterthought. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $33

84 Château du Biac 2010 B de Biac (Cadil-lac Côtes de Bordeaux). The wine is ripe,

yet with a line of green acidity and touches of bell pep-per. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $42

83 Château Biac 2010 Félix de Biac (Cadil-lac Côtes de Bordeaux). Lean and tough,

this is all hard edges. The wine has an austere character that’s likely to be off-putting even in the future. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

83 Château Bourbon 2010 Clos Bourbon (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Heavy toast

aromas follow through to a wine that is packed with new wood and some fruit. It has a biting burnt edge that may soften. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

83 Château Brethous 2010 Prélude (Cadil-lac Côtes de Bordeaux). A confected wine

that shows polished wood and mint flavors but little fruit. It puts on a great show, but without depth. Bad Boy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $38

82 Château Brethous 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A lean wine with some austeri-

ty. It has a firmly tannic character while missing the fruit for the future. Bad Boy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

92 Château Puy Arnaud 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Sweetly fruity, this is

full of attractive acidity and juicy black currant fruit. It’s a wine that is developing fast; with its delicious fruits,

it will be ready to drink soon. Binny’s Beverage Depot. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

91 Château Haut Dina 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a very complete wine,

with all the fruit and tannin elements in place. There’s a fine and rich character here as well as a more aus-tere, mineral side. The combination results in support-ing tannins, dark fruits and good aging potential. LVC Las Vegas Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

91 Domaine de l’A 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. A tough, dark wine, needing con-

siderable aging to bring out its balanced fruits. It has the feel of a serious, impressive wine, dominated by power-ful tannins. Underneath, the fruit is dark, brooding and firm. Give this wine at least five years. J.J. Buckley Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $35

90 Château de Pitray 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Concentrated, with a strongly

tannic element that is balanced by ripe fruits. It makes for a well-structured, impressive wine that also has a fruity element. Age for 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Goubau 2010 La Source (Castil-lon Côtes de Bordeaux). This is a big, ripe,

fruity wine, with some serious tannins that support the smooth mint and black currant flavors. It has weight, with the wood aging shining through. There is attractive acidity on the close. Select Beverage Company. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

90 Château le Peyrat 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Ripe and fruity, this is a warm,

rounded wine. Yes, it has tannins that are firm, but it’s the rich black fruit quality that shines. There’s good density as well, so this wine will surely age well. Give it 5–6 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Monbadon 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. There is tough concentration

here that suggests a wine that needs aging; there’s also fruit that hints at richness to come. A wine that has a good future. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

88 Château Côte Montpezat 2010 Cuvée Compostelle (Castillon Côtes de Bor-

deaux). Dark tannins are sustained by juicy blackberry fruit flavors. While the wine is very dry and firm at this stage, it has a good, if long-term, future. VOS Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

88 Château de Belcier 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. A tough proposition at this

young stage, but one which will definitely mature well, if slowly. There’s power from tannins and fruit, both promising aging. Dark and dense, this hints at the juicy black fruits to come. Sober LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20


88 Château Hyot 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. While there is a strong element of

new wood in this wine, it also has plenty of ripe black fruits. So it makes a wine that is powerful, potentially complex in 4–5 years with richness and a solid, serious final character. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

87 Château Aiguilhe Querre 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Fruity and juicy, this is

an approachable wine for short-term drinking. There are hints of new wood, along with bright black currant flavors. It’s crisp and juicy, packed with fresh fruits and a balanced structure. Signature Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

86 Château la Brande 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Full bodied, structured and

tannic while also fruity, this is fine example of the 2010 vintage. It’s all structure at this stage, but it’s going to be a full and ripe wine, although the alcohol does show through at the end in a pepper-driven moment. Grape News Importing. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

86 Château la Grande Maye 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. A firm, dark and con-

centrated wine that boasts big tannins, dark fruit and a seriously dry element. Powerful and extracted, it needs time to soften and show its more fruity side. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Château Ampélia 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. A strongly wood-aged wine,

very dark and brooding. It has high extract and concen-tration, with a flash of black pepper on the palate. Tough and finishing hard. Spec’s. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

85 Château Bréhat 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Minty aromas go along with firm,

barely bitter tannins. They dominate the wine, smoth-ering the fruit and lending a burnt quality to the palate. Franck’s Signature Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

85 Château Langrange Monbadon 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. A softly juicy

wine, this is missing structure while it has plenty of fruit. It’s ripe, rich and juicy; a pleasure to drink in 2–3 years. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

84 Château Terrasson 2010 Cuvée Prévenche (Castillon Côtes de Bor-

deaux). A minty, modern style of wine that also has too much extraction and wood tannin for its own good. It’s hard edged, the fruit losing out in the process. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

91 Château le Priolat 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. A rich, well-balanced wine, this re-

veals both ripe black plum flavors and sweet tannins.

With concentration, full fruits and a layer of acidity, this is an impressive wine for long-term aging. Direct Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $27

90 Château Ad Francos 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. A smooth mint- and eucalyptus-

flavored wine, with burnt-tannin flavors and a hugely dry core. The wine is very firm, the juicy acidity and fruit underneath just a whisper for the future. Give the wine at least 6–7 years. Direct Wines. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $41

90 Château Nardou 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. A smooth, beautifully rich wine

with great swathes of ripe fruit. The wine is concen-trated and dense, showing the best of the year with its fine, ripe fruits. Age for 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

89 Château la Prade 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. A powerful, firmly structured wine,

this is dense and concentrated, a powerhouse of both dark fruits and firm tannins. It will need many years to develop its full potential. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Puygueraud 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a harmonious mix of

firm, extracted tannins and dense fruit. It has a dark, hard edge at this youthful stage, suggesting this is always going to be a wine that is tough. At the same time, it has weight and richness to support the structure. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Franc-Cardinal 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. A rich but structured

wine, this shows dark fruits and a strong tannic core. There is fine acidity and a taut, mineral texture. Bar-clays Wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

84 Château Marsau 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. A hard-edged wine, all bitter tan-

nin and dark extraction. It’s hard to tell whether the fruit, if any, will struggle through. Bordeaux Wine Lo-cators. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

91 Château Mont-Pérat 2010 Côtes de Bor-deaux. A solid, structured wine from the

Despagne family, packed with ripe fruits and some fine yet dense tannins. With its wood character, this finely textured wine is obviously ready for some good aging. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

90 Château Suau 2010 Côtes de Bordeaux. Warm and rich, the wine from vineyards on the

slopes above Cadillac have the structure of the vintage along with the ripe, blackberry fruits. It is already at-

tractive to drink, and will continue to age nicely over the medium term. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Château La Grange Clinet 2010 Côtes de Bordeaux. Rich and spicy, this is a smooth,

wood-aged wine. It has ripe tannins and some concen-trated fruits. With its acidity and dry aftertaste, it will certainly age. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

88 Château Latour Camblanes 2010 Côtes de Bordeaux. The wood is piled into this

wine, giving a firm, dry, toasty structure. It has weight, the fruit under the wood showing great potential. Give this wine at least three years. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Arnaud Jouan 2010 Cuvée Pres-tige (Côtes de Bordeaux). Firm and struc-

tured, this is a textured wine, its tannins currently show-ing strongly. The blueberry fruit flavors offer a juicy, friendly contrast, resulting in a balanced wine that will benefit from a year or two of aging. Serge Doré Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

87 Château Lamothe 2010 Première Cuvée (Côtes de Bordeaux). Dense and tannic, a

firmly wood- and stalky-fruit based wine. Black currant fruits and dry tannins are the prominent characteristics. On the finish, the fruit shows a juicier feel. Bayfield Im-porting Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $21

85 Château Lamothe 2010 Côtes de Bor-deaux. There is high acidity on this black cur-

rant-flavored wine. It is light and fruity, with a cool feel and taut texture. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

84 Château Anniche 2010 Côtes de Bor-deaux. A fresh and fruity wine, with black cur-

rant notes, yet somewhat stalky in character. The after-taste is bright and light. Borvin Beverage. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

84 Château le Doyenne 2010 Côtes de Bor-deaux. This is a dark, firm wine, its fruit only

showing slowly. The tannins are powerful and dominate the wine. It feels slightly underripe in character. Masci-arelli Wine Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

BORDEAUX

87 Pezat 2010 Bordeaux. A juicy, fruity wine with attractive, bright red-berry fruit flavors.

The wine is fresh, touched nicely by some wood and tannins. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

85 Château Acker-Perreau 2010 Bordeaux. This is a fruity, ready-to-drink wine, with acid-

ity cutting through the juicy black currant fruits. This is

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attractive and bright, yet structured. Serge Doré Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

84 Château Tour de Luchey 2009 Bordeaux. A rich and fruity wine with a dusty structure

that allows the blackberry jelly flavors to show through. It has a stalky black currant edge that goes with the con-trasting acidity. Drink over the next five years. Wine Ad-ventures Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

OTHER RED BORDEAUX

89 Château Fourcas-Borie 2010 Listrac- Médoc. Part of the range of wines made by the

Borie family of Ducru-Beaucaillou, this is a firm, typi-cally rustic Listrac. It shows structure as well as fruiti-ness, sometimes edged with harder tannins. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Haut-Francarney 2010 Canon-Fronsac. A full, structured wine, showing at-

tractive damson and blackberry flavors along with a strong element of wood aging. The wine is rich, its juicy Merlot character joined with final acidity. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40

85 Château Vrai Caillou 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Showing plenty of the warmth and

openness of the vintage, this is a rounded, red-fruited wine. It has an edge of tannins and a rich, soft texture. Very ready to drink now. Europvin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

WHITE BORDEAUX

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

96 Domaine de Chevalier 2010 Pessac-Léognan. This is a great wine with its swathes

of ripe fruit allied to a very structured character. It is concentrated with complex flavors that bring in wood, tropical fruits, apricots and a dense texture. Combined, these elements give the wine great style and aging po-tential. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2010 Pes-sac-Léognan. A rich, ripe and finely balanced

wine. Its acidity cuts through the full pear and apricot flavors to give a tight crispness. At this stage, it is all fruit and acidity, but it does have the potential for greatness with a more complex sense coming from the wood ag-ing and the fine, tight texture. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Malartic-Lagraviere 2010 Pes-sac-Léognan. A fruity, ripe wine with lemon

and pineapple flavors alongside a fine tang of citrus. It’s beautifully marked with wood aging to give a rounded, rich mouthfeel. It also has the texture to mellow into a more nuanced wine in 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Pape-Clement 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Opulent and ripe, this is a powerful,

wood-aged wine. It has a fine mix of tropical fruits, spice and vanilla. The richness is cut through with pink grape-fruit to give a fine sense of poise and balance. Age for at least four years. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Carbonnieux 2010 Pessac-Léognan. A delicate, classically textured white

wine, this is a pure combination of apricot and lemon fruits with crisp, delicious acidity despite the wood ag-ing. A great success in its restrained style, this should age well. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château de Fieuzal 2010 Pessac-Léog-nan. Smooth and rich, this is an opulent wine.

It has ripe acidity and tropical fruit notes, while also crisp at the edges, like biting into a ripe pear. The wine, with its structured core, has good aging potential. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Latour-Martillac 2010 Pessac-Léognan. This fresh and fruity wine offers

touches of apricot and a depth of richness. It’s beauti-fully bright and crisp, with lively acidity and a final lem-on crispness on the close. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Olivier 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Pushing in the direction of freshness and her-

baceousness, this is a tight, textured wine. The wine’s grapefruit and lime flavors are balanced by touches of wood and spice. The final feel is soft, yet brisk. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Bouscaut 2010 Pessac-Léog-nan. Full-bodied and rich, this is full of pineap-

ple fruit flavors and woody spice. The ripeness is allied to an herbaceous character, with almonds giving spice. It will develop quickly into a delicious wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $32

91 Château Couhins-Lurton 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Since this is 100% Sauvignon Blanc,

it is intensely crisp, with grapefruit flavors and bright acidity that lead into a lemongrass aftertaste. It’s clean and fresh, and is likely to mature quickly. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Couhins 2010 Pessac-Léognan. This is a lively wine, with faint touches of wood

to give a smoother character. The wine is bright while having the necessary depth of flavor to promise good aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE BORDEAUX

93 Château Margaux 2010 Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (Bordeaux Blanc).

A fine combination of wood and ripe, tropical fruits lead to a crisp, fruity more herbaceous core. There is a great

balance between this richness and citrus herbaceous-ness. It will certainly age several years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 Aile d’Argent (Bordeaux). Citrusy, with its char-

acter bordering on herbaceous, this is a layered wine. Produced from a portion of the Mouton-Rothschild vineyard, it is rich and deliciously ready to drink, with bright acidity giving a fine lift to the finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château des Matards 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A bright, wood-aged wine, this

is full of toast and yellow fruit notes framed by complex acidity. The wine has an ageworthy side as well, with the texture showing a mineral, nervy element on the finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Clos Nardian 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. A creamy, wood-aged white that simultaneously

emphasizes crisp Sauvignon Blanc fruit and minerality. Hints of pineapple and lemon go with a tight texture. A rich yet fresh wine that could age for a few years but can also be enjoyed now. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65

86 Château les Charmes Godard 2010 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a very

herbaceous and crisp wine, with the Sauvignon Blanc characteristics cutting through the ripe texture. It’s fruity, bright as a button and ready to drink now. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Château des Tourtes 2010 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Get beyond the yeasty aromas

to reveal a fruity, creamy textured wine. It has ripe yel-low fruits, an herbaceous element and a smooth, full mouthfeel. Campbell Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

84 Château Tertre de Launay 2011 Entre-Deux-Mers. Initially, there are hints of sulfur,

but once those blow off, the wine reveals a crisp, fresh and grassy character with tight acidity and lemon and grapefruit flavors. Not for aging, so drink over the next year. Europvin. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

CHAMPAGNE

VINTAGE

96 Bollinger 2004 Grande Année (Cham-pagne). For full review see page 3. Cellar Se-

lection. abv: 12% Price: $155

95 Larmandier-Bernier 2006 Vieilles Vignes de Cramant Grand Cru (Champagne).

This wine is sourced from two parcels, one planted in the 1930s and the other in the 1950s. The low dosage is possible because of the concentration and ripeness of the fruit, resulting in a sophisticated, balanced and rich wine with a lemon zest flavor, a tight, mineral tex-


ture, and a crisp finish. Polaner Selections. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $90

94 Larmandier-Bernier 2007 Terre de Vertus Premier Cru (Champagne). A full, rich, ripe

wine with a contrasting distinct mineral character. Acid-ity, a fresh lemongrass flavor and a tight texture gives this wine complexity. There is a touch of toastiness, lending a notion of balance between total freshness and maturity. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Duval-Leroy 2004 Femme de Cham-pagne Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). The

attractive half bottle means this vintage wine can age more quickly than the same wine in a full bottle. It’s already hinting at maturity with touches of cookie and toast flavors. There is still a fresh apple and citrus streak that gives a steel, mineral thrust at the end. Duval-Le-roy Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $65/375 ml

93 Pierre Péters 2005 Les Chétillons Blanc de Blancs (Champagne). A ripe and opu-

lent Champagne with intense white and yellow fruit fla-vors. The wine is full bodied, with just a touch of toast to show approaching maturity. This is a wonderfully open and generous wine. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Tarlant 2003 La Vigne d’Or Extra Brut (Champagne). From a small north-east fac-

ing vineyard in the Vallée de la Marne, this ripe, soft, generous wine also has great intensity. It is full and con-centrated, with pear and apple fruits allied to touches of bitter almonds, wood and fruit. It’s a vintage that could age, although it is just right to drink now. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Duval-Leroy 2005 Clos des Bouveries Brut (Champagne). An attractively ripe and

mature wine with a great balance between the orangy citrus fruits and a tight, taut, mineral texture. The wine is rich in its dosage and fruitiness while showing signs of maturer toast and almond flavors. However, it could still age. Duval-Leroy Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $75

91 Jean-Noël Haton 2005 Extra Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). A pure, clean

mineral-driven Champagne. It’s very crisp, with a chalky texture, flavors of green apples and tight acid-ity. It’s one of those Champagnes that needs time in the glass, because as it opens the flavors become more com-plex, bringing out yellow fruits as well as the underlying citrus. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $65

91 Pannier 2005 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). A young vintage wine, this is

very crisp and citrusy. It has a strongly tannic texture, and is bright with a sharp edge of acidity. There’s a for-ward steely, mineral character and a dryness that offers promise for several years’ aging. Aviva Vino. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

91 Yann Alexandre 2007 Blanc de Blancs Millésime Brut (Champagne). Partly fer-

mented in wood, this smooth, unctuous Champagne is at the same time delicately dry and lined with acidity. With its steely overtones, it’s still a young Champagne, needing time to smooth out the sharp, youthful edges. Give it at least five years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $120

91 Yann Alexandre 2004 Millésime Premier Cru Extra Brut (Champagne). This is a

bone-dry Champagne, with a crispness and mineral texture that promises long aging to a wine that also de-mands food. Its green apple and citrus flavors are pow-erfully dominant. Allied to the acidity, this is a young, taut, nervy wine ready for many years’ aging. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $160

90 Duval-Leroy 2005 Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesimé (Champagne). A soft, rich wine

with delicious flavors of pear and red apples, lifted by pineapple acidity. It is ripe, but still young, with touches of yeast and almond. It will age well over the medium-term. Duval-Leroy Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $70

90 Jean-Noël Haton 2005 Noble Vintage Mil-lésime Brut (Champagne). From one of

Champagne’s less ageworthy vintages, this is already de-liciously drinkable. It has fine acidity that cuts through the mineral texture, shaping the rounded fruitiness. It’s dry and crisp at the end. Drink now and over the next 4–5 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $70

NONVINTAGE

94 Tarlant NV Hommage à Louis Tarlant Brut (Champagne). Equal parts Pinot Noir and

Chardonnay, this is a powerfully rich wine based on the 1998 and 1997 vintage. It is full, packed with cit-rus, peach and apricot flavors mingling with a beautiful, generous creamy texture. This is a glorious Champagne, a worthy homage to Louis Tarlant who pioneered the family’s Champagne in the early 20th century. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Larmandier-Bernier NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Very mineral in style, a

blend of Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant and Vertus. Crisp, dry, tight and packed with citrus. It’s an impres-sively mineral wine, bringing out all the character of the chalk soil of Champagne’s Côte des Blancs. Polaner Se-lections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Tarlant NV Les Vignes d’Antan Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (Champagne). Produced

from ungrafted Chardonnay planted on sandy soil to es-cape phylloxera. Based on the 2000 vintage, the wine has a rich, mature feel, very pure in character along with a touch of minerality. Crisp, with citrusy acidity giving a fine, bright aftertaste. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Larmandier-Bernier NV Latitude Extra Brut (Champagne). Although it’s not indi-

cated on the label, this is a Blanc de Blancs from Char-donnay. It is warm and ripe, with a soft texture allied to fresh acidity. Orange and lemon zest give a great lift to this rounded wine. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Jean-Noël Haton NV Extra Brut (Cham-pagne). With some attractive, toasty age, this

is a full and rich Champagne. It’s finely balanced ap-ple and citrus flavors are layered with hints of almonds. The “Extra” in the name refers to the range of wines from Haton rather than the level of dryness. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $90

91 Larmandier-Bernier NV Rosé de Saignée Premier Cru (Champagne). As it indicates,

this is a rosé made from the natural color of the skins rather than blending in red wine. It’s rich, as much a wine as a Champagne, with even a touch of tannin. Dry, with plenty of acidity to finish. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Pierre Moncuit NV Cuvée Pierre Moncuit-Delos Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This

a tight and mineral wine from Mesnil-sur-Oger in the heart of the Côte des Blancs of Champagne. It’s still youthful, fresh and crisp, with lemon and tangy citrus flavors. The lively character will certainly round out in 5–6 years. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50

90 Taittinger NV La Française Brut (Cham-pagne). Tasted from a half bottle, the rich and

complex flavors of Brut La Française show just that ex-tra touch of maturity. The wine has peach and almond flavors that contrast well with the taut, nervy edge. It’s full in the mouth and ripe, and works well both as an apéritif and a food Champagne. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA/375 ml

90 Tarlant NV Zéro Extra Brut (Champagne). While it is certainly dry, this Champagne also

has a rich, toasty character, with crisp acidity. It is tight and minerally, reveling in ripe fruit flavors. The wine balances some toasty age with delicious, citrus fruit. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Pierre Moncuit NV Hugues de Coulmet Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne).

From the small Champagne region around Sézanne, this is a rounded, mouthfilling Chardonnay. It has ripe citrus and orange fruit flavors with a touch of apricot. It’s a classic apéritif style. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $43

89 Tarlant NV Rosé Zéro Extra Brut (Cham-pagne). This is very crisp, touched by red

berry fruits but more dominated by tight, structured tannins. There’s a balanced mix of acidity, texture and a hint of wood flavor, giving the Champagne a very wine-like feel. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

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89 Yann Alexandre NV Grande Réserve Pre-mier Cru Brut (Champagne). An attractive

nonvintage wine, sweeter than some other Yann Alexan-dre offerings. There is a ripe apple flavor, touched with light tannins and minerality. The finish is warm, soft and rich. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $120

88 Duval-Leroy NV Rosé Prestige Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). Red fruit notes with

touches of tannin dominate this wine. It is tight, with a bitter cherry flavor that suggests this bottling needs some age. There’s a firm feel overall, suggesting this will work better with food than as an apéritif. Duval-Leroy Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $65

88 Henri Abele NV Brut (Champagne). This small, discrete Champagne house, owned by

Freixenet of Cava fame, makes an equally understated nonvintage Brut. Ripe and finely balanced, it brings ap-ple and pear flavors along with a touch of minerality and crisp acidity at the end. Victoire Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $36

88 Jean-Noël Haton NV Extra Brut Rosé (Champagne). Fruity strawberry flavors lead

this ripe and soft wine. It has a crisp side to it, with touches of orange zest. The aftertaste, light and deli-cate, brings a more mineral edge. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $50

88 Louis Régnier NV Grande Réserve Brut (Champagne). A soft Champagne, balancing

bright pear and apple fruits with a crisp edge. It has a tangy lemon zest texture, minerality and a final sugges-tion of sweeter dosage. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $40

88 Yann Alexandre NV Cuvée Rubis Premier Cru Rosé (Champagne). This is an intensely

strawberry-flavored wine, despite the dry character. It has a tannic edge, giving an almost red wine feel to it. At the same time, the crisp acidity and the fruitiness push it more towards a ripe, food-friendly Champagne. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $110

88 Yann Alexandre NV Roche Mère Brut Na-ture (Champagne). Without any sweetening

dosage, this is a bone-dry wine, so crisp and laden with a citrus and mineral texture. With its intense acidity and clean feel, it brings out all the feeling of the soil of Champagne (hence the name of the cuvée, the mother rock). Drink with food. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $100

88 Yann Alexandre NV Sélection Brut (Champagne). The nonvintage cuvée from

Yann Alexandre is a deliciously fruity wine, given com-plexity by some yeastiness. The Champagne is dry, shot through with citrus and green fruits, steely acidity and a bright, crisp aftertaste. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $90

87 Guyot Choppin NV Brut (Champagne). An apple-fresh Champagne, this is fruity while

also having a tangy, mineral character. It has a soft tex-ture, showing white currants and citrus freshness to fin-ish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $35

87 Henri Abele NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). A light-colored rosé, this is fresh, soft and fruity.

It has attractive raspberry and flaked apple flavors, with well-integrated acidity. It makes a good apéritif style of Champagne with its gentle, warm aftertaste. Victoire Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $47

86 Jean-Noël Haton NV Rich Demi-Sec (Champagne). This is a full, sweeter style of

Champagne. It has a touch of honey, pear and peach-jelly flavors. There’s some crispness as well to give the wine a fresh edge. This style is a fine partner for fruit desserts. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

SPANISH WHITES

RÍAS BAIXAS

88 Terra de Asorei 2011 Pazo Torrado Al-bariño (Rías Baixas). This is classic Albariño;

it has mineral, citrus and ocean aromas. These scents are backed by a round but fit palate with leesy fresh-ness and flavors of apple, lime and natural vanilla. Styl-ish and pure on the finish; drink immediately. Winesell-ers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Lo Nuevo 2011 Covello Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is fresh on the nose, with peach,

green banana and mineral aromas. The palate feels cit-rusy and racy, with lemon, green apple and gooseberry flavors, while the finish is cleansing and quick. This is lean, sassy and ready to drink. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Condes de Albarei 2011 Salneval Albari-ño (Rías Baixas). This white smells open and

leesy, with melony accents. The palate feels zesty but simple, with dilute, tart flavors of citrus and apple. The finish falls off quickly and ends up tasting bland. Drink now. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

85 La Cana 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dusty aromas of apple and vanilla break up fast

as the wine shows oxidized notes. The palate feels nar-row and lemony, while the flavor profile is one dimen-sional and settles on lemon and tart apple. On the fin-ish, things turn stalky in flavor and acidic in feel. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

82 Pazo de Señorans 2005 Selección de Añada Albariño (Rías Baixas). Pazo Se-

ñorans generally makes great wine, but this aged Albari-ño is past its prime. The nose is soft and smells mostly of toffee and vanilla, while the wine has a maderized tint and stalky, geriatric flavors of bland apple and oxidized

citrus. This wine should have been drunk five years ago. Eric Solomon Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $75

82 Valtea 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Oxi-dized citrus aromas are flabby, as is the palate.

Flavors of apple and peach are basic, while the finish feels dull and dried out, with no kick or lasting flavor other than mild bitterness. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

RUEDA

89 Nisia 2011 Old Vines Verdejo (Rueda). The bouquet on this Verdejo is as chiseled and

clean as polished glass, with mineral and lime notes. The wine is fresh and melony in the mouth, with hon-eydew, mango and green herb flavors. It’s a bit pithy on the finish, and overall there’s a citric feel to this old-vines white. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2011 Dama-na Verdejo (Rueda). Salinic, oceanic aromas

come with touches of green herbs and lime. The palate is crisp and focused with apple, lime, kiwi and melo-ny flavors that set up a green-tinged, persistent finish that’s minerally and citrusy to the final drop. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

88 Palma Real 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). This modestly priced Verdejo does exactly what it

should: it smells nice and clean, with white-fruit aro-mas. It’s pure and easygoing on the palate, with stony minerality, and it tastes like green apple, peach and mel-on, with dry pithiness to the finish. Drink now. W. J. Deutsch & Sons Blue Division. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Agricola Castellana 2011 Inspiración Pampano Verdejo (Rueda). With waxy cit-

rus aromas offset by stone-fruit scents, this Verdejo opens in clean, attractive form. The palate is easygo-ing and offers freshening acidity, while flavors of apple, lime and orange set up a fresh, cutting finish. Drink im-mediately for maximum freshness and expression. Epic Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Naia 2011 Las Brisas (Rueda). Citrus, mango and animal cracker aromas are mild and

easy to like. The palate on this white blend (led by 50% Verdejo) offers melon, apple, mango and a hint of spice, while the finish is clean, smooth and just racy enough. Drink now for max freshness. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

82 Cantarranas 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). A big step down from the past two vintages. This

Verdejo lacks fortitude and clarity; it’s grassy and flat on the nose, then cloying on the palate. Flavors of bland citrus are disjointed and underwhelming. Finishes grassy and green. Cognac One, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10


RIOJA

87 Luis Alegre 2011 Blanco (Rioja). Dry, dusty melon and lime aromas form a quiet but

welcoming bouquet. The palate on this Viura is fresh and mild, with apple, mineral and citrus flavors. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Muga 2011 Barrel Fermented (Rioja). This blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia gives off

scents of saline and pool water along with apple, citrus and green herb notes. The palate is zesty and high in acid, leaving a clipped feel and flavors of lime, pineap-ple and green apple. It’s nicely built but modest in its overall expression. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

85 Finca Nueva 2011 Fermented en Barri-ca Viura (Rioja). This barrel-fermented Vi-

ura opens with dry, dusty aromas of baked apple and almond butter. It’s a simple but satisfying wine, with tangy acidity and flavors of gooseberry, citrus and green apple. And it handles its oak well, something that can’t be said about many barrel-fermented Riojas. Jorge Or-doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

84 Bodegas Vínícola Real 2007 Cueva del Monge Blanco Fermentado en Barrica

(Rioja). There’s something likable about this aged, Sherry-style Rioja. Don’t let the maderized tint turn you off; the wine has character, including rancio, toffee and saline aromas and flavors. If you like Sherry, give this a shot. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

83 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Inspiración Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja). Maderized in

color, this wine has a yeasty, creamy nose with baked white-fruit aromas and caramel. It’s OK in feel, with pickled, mildly briny flavors of apple and apricot. The finish is showing some oxidization, leading to a chunky, fleshy feel. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $40

83 Dinastía Vivanco 2011 Vivanco Viura-Malvasia-Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja). This

blend of Viura, Malvasia and Tempranillo Blanco smells a bit sweaty and like passion fruit. The palate has a fresh, citrusy feel and flavors of lime and grapefruit. It’s fresh and clean but dilute on the close. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

83 Juan Carlos Sancha 2011 Ad Libitum (Rioja). Forget the high price on this Tempra-

nillo Blanco. Looking at the wine alone, it’s briny and stalky on the nose, with wiry lemon-like acids that push sour orange flavors. Overall it’s monotone, briny and cit-rusy. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $34

83 Taron 2011 Viura (Rioja). The nose on this Viura is flat, with walnut oil and dusty apple

notes. The mouthfeel is solid, while the flavors suggest

dry apricot, apple and nutty notes. This is dry and mod-est on the finish. Amphora Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

82 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Conde de Valde-mar Finca Alto Cantabria Viura (Rioja).

Maderized aromas of applesauce and dust are not terri-bly welcoming. Meanwhile, the palate is mild and tastes nutty, like soft apples and spice. This is acceptable bar-rel-fermented Viura but it lacks freshness and character. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

81 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Conde de Valde-mar Viura (Rioja). This Viura smells waxy and

oxidized for a 2011. The palate feels chunky and awk-ward, while the flavor profile deals maderized pear and apple. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

NAVARRA

87 Vega Sindoa 2011 Chardonnay (Navar-ra). This is an oaky but airy Chardonnay with

peach, melon and vanilla aromas. The palate mixes fresh acidity and creaminess with oak-based flavors of vanilla as well as more standard melon and banana. The finish features mostly woodspice and vanilla flavors. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Vega Sindoa 2011 Viura-Chardonnay (Navarra). The palate on this wine is clean,

lemony and lean, with pithy citrus, apple and vanilla fla-vors. The best thing about the finish is that it doesn’t fall apart. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

85 Bodegas Julián Chivite 2011 Gran Feudo Chardonnay (Navarra). Pithy lime aromas

get this fresh Chardonnay going. The palate is citrusy in feel, with a mix of lime, grapefruit and orange fla-vors that are limited in scope and complexity but clean. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Finca Albret 2011 Chardonnay (Navarra). Mild and minerally on the nose, with nothing

really standing out or dominating. The palate feels cit-rusy but sort of bland and basic, with mealy apple and melony flavors. This is a midlevel wine without much distinguishing character. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

80 Ochoa 2011 Viura Chardonnay (Navar-ra). Animal cracker aromas are sweet and the

fruit on the nose is mealy on this Viura-Chardonnay blend. The palate is also deficient in that it’s watery in feel, but there’s some tangy lemon to the flavor profile. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

CATALUNYA

86 Bodegas 1898 2011 Ramón Roqueta Ma-cabeo-Chardonnay (Catalunya). This Ma-

cabeo-Chardonnay blend is light on its feet, with miner-

ally aromas of saline and peach. It’s fresh but ordinary in the mouth, with apple and melon flavors in front of a dry, dusty finish. This will do the trick with basic appe-tizers. First Tier Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Torres 2011 Sangre de Toro Viña Sol (Catalunya). Apple, lime, lemon and natural

vanilla are the aromas one gets from this blended Cata-lonian white. The palate is bright along the edges, a bit soft and jumbled in the middle, and in terms of flavor the wine offers generic apple and lime in front of a fresh but fleshy finish. Drink immediately. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

85 Bodegas 1898 2011 Campo Lindo Fresh Macabeo-Chardonnay (Catalunya). There

is not much action on the nose other than white-fruit aromas. The palate is fleshy in feel, with modest inten-sity and soft, maleable flavors of pear and apple. The fin-ish is open-knit and soft in feel. 80% Macabeo and 20% Chardonnay. Atlas Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN

88 Finca la Rinconada 2011 Fermentado en Barrica Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de Cas-

tilla y León). This wine was aged for a few months in barrel, and that woody character is evident on the nose, which shows butterscotch and dusty spice aro-mas, as well as the palate, which is lightly oily in feel, with baked, spicy flavors of toasted apple and pear. This Verdejo is woody but has freshness and a refined tex-ture. OFFbeat Brands. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Abadia Retuerta 2011 Le Domaine Blan-co de Guarda (Vino de la Tierra de Cas-

tilla y León). This is unusual in that it’s heavily oaked, as evidenced by aromas of varnish, hard spice and res-in. The mouthfeel is fresh on top of resiny, while fla-vors of dry oak, spice and mild apple and citrus operate in the background. While this wine has depth of body and acidic lift, it’s dominated by the barrel. Europvin. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

85 Pedro Escudero 2011 Fuente Milano Verdejo-Viura (Vino de la Tierra de Cas-

tilla y León). Prickly, briny citrus aromas announce a juicy, acidic wine that dances on the palate while de-livering flavors of lime, briny apple and nettle. Things stay prickly and turn bitter on the back side. 50% each Verdejo and Viura. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

TIERRA DE CASTILLA

86 Finca Constancia 2011 Parcela 52 Verde-jo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Nettle,

green herb and sweaty, varietal Verdejo aromas con-trol the bouquet on this barrel-aged white. The palate is oily in feel, with pithy flavors of apricot, apple and

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grapefruit. The finish mixes baked white-fruit flavors with lasting bitterness and oak. San Francisco Wine Ex-change. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

83 Real Compañia de Vinos 2011 Blanco (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This blend

of 70% Viura with Verdejo and Sauvigon Blanc smells a lot like Bartlett pear juice. In the mouth, it’s fleshy and dilute, with briny grapefruit and a pithy tasting finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

81 Casa Solar 2011 Viura (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Odd aromas of talcum powder

and bath oils are fragrant but not very wine-like. This is flat on the palate, with very little cut and oily tasting flavors of ripe white fruits. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

81 Dominio de Eguren 2011 Protocolo White (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Af-

ter earning a number of Best Buys prior to this vintage, this $7 white blend is disappointing. The nose is strange and funky, while the palate feels hollow, with briny ap-ple and pickled citrus flavors. 50% each Airen and Ma-cabeo. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $7

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Avanthia 2011 Godello (Valdeorras). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Gaba do Xil 2011 Godello (Valdeorras). Lemon, apple and a hint of honey characterize

the bouquet, which is appealing as a whole. The palate is smooth, with a good mix of body and acidity. Flavors of pithy citrus, apple and green banana lead to a slightly bitter finish with almondy notes and lasting minerality. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Abad Dom Bueno 2011 Godello (Bierzo). Dusty apple and white peach aromas provide a

nice greeting. The wine is basic and tangy in terms of feel, with lemon-lime, bitter lettuce, banana, nectarine and pineapple flavors. While not exactly complex or el-evated, it delivers pure citrus characteristics offset by solid minerality. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $24

88 Ponte da Boga 2011 Blanco de Blancos (Ribeira Sacra). This crystalline Galician

blend is composed of 95% Godello and Albariño, and it gets going with mellow apple, peach and other white-fruit aromas. The palate has a tangy, citrusy outlook with corresponding flavors of lime, orange and tangerine. Things turn pithy and more chunky on the finish. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Gotín del Risc 2011 Joven Godello (Bi-erzo). Peach and mango aromas are offset by a

spot of minerality, while the palate is fresh and mellow in feel, with a mix of tropical fruit flavors, punchy citrus

and bitter grapefruit pith. It finishes solid but regular, with a final blast of tropical sweetness. Table 31 Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Sumarroca 2011 Estate Bottled Chardon-nay (Penedès). Lemon-lime and mild vanilla

aromas create a good bouquet. The palate is basic in structure but quite nice in purity and acidity. Flavors of green melon and spiced apple lead to a similar tasting finish. For freshness and balance, this wine gets it right. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Las Valles 2011 Viura-Chardonnay (Cari-ñena). Light lemon-lime aromas open things

up, alongside a light mineral note. The palate is clean and racy, with enough body to hold up to core flavors of lime, kiwi and green apple. A floral freshness carries the finish. Hand Picked Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

84 Borsao 2011 Viura (Campo de Borja). Ap-ple and mild spice aromas kick off this simple

white from the land of red Garnacha. The palate is fresh and juicy but light on character, while the flavor profile offers pithy, easygoing apple and melon flavors. This de-fines quaffable white wine. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

84 Masia Puigmoltó 2011 Emendis Trio Varietal Macabeo-Chardonnay-Muscat

(Penedès). Aromatically, this blend of Macabeo, Mus-cat and Chardonnay gets off to a decent start by show-ing honeysuckle, lemon verbena and minerality. But in the mouth it’s sharp and narrow, with blazing acids that turn peach and nectarine flavors towards sour. Simply put, there’s not enough body here for the wine to rate higher. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

82 Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo 2011 Men-guante Garnacha Blanca (Cariñena).

Peach and melon aromas come with accents of vanil-la and honey. The palate on this Garancha Blanca is chunky, without much acidic cut. Flavors of grapefruit and orange are flabby, pithy and dull, while bitterness controls the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

80 Evohé 2011 Con Batonage Garna-cha Blanca (Vino de la Tierra del Bajo

Aragón). This white Garnacha is strange smelling, with a mix of cream soda, pickled fruit and vanilla aromas. It’s tart, briny and citrusy on the palate, with a sour finish. Domaine Napa Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

CAVA

87 Bach NV Gran Brut (Cava). Straightforward apple and spice aromas draw you in. The palate

on this value-priced brut Cava is fresh and focused, with mango, citrus, spice and dried herb flavors. It finishes fresh, with a touch of quince and apple flavor. Good for the price. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $11

87 Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Semi Dry (Cava). For a sweet bubbly priced at $9, you

can’t go wrong with Carta Nevada Semi Dry. This is smooth from nose to body to finish. Aromas of pear and banana are easy, while the palate keeps its poise and feel while dealing pear, mango and banana flavors. For a sugary sparkler this more than gets the job done. Freix-enet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

87 Juvé y Camps 2008 Brut Gran Reserva (Cava). With lemon-lime and lemongrass aro-

mas, this Cava is slightly exotic on the bouquet. The pal-ate feels good but not terribly interesting or complex, with flavors of dusty apple, peach and vanilla. With a short finish, this vintage sparkler is fine but not as good as in the past. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $50

87 Segura Viudas NV Reserva Heredad Brut (Cava). Dusty aromas of apple and mild yeast

form the bouquet on this traditional Cava. In the mouth, it’s frothy and foamy on contact, while the flavors veer from peppery and dry to apple and citrus. This finishes nice and peppery, with proper dryness for a brut spar-kler. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $25

86 Juvé y Camps 2008 Milesimé Brut Reser-va (Cava). This Cava is mustardy smelling,

with apple in tow. The palate feels fresh and solid, while flavors of yeasty, dry apple and white pepper lead to a toasty, firm finish. A likable sparkler but regular as a whole. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $24

85 Sonim 2008 Brut Nature (Cava). Contrary to the fresher and more focused 2009 Brut Na-

ture from Sonim, this bubbly shows stalky corn and acrid aromas along with apple and green herb notes. There’s some elegance to the palate but overall it’s tart and limited, with strong citric acids and only a hint of yeasty stuffing. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $29

83 Dominio de la Vega NV Brut Reserva Es-pecial (Cava). Gold in color, this Cava dis-

plays a distinct aroma of arugula or lettuce along with cream soda. It’s foamy and soft on the palate, with a mix of bitter, toasty flavors as well as baked apple. Yeasty tasting yet bitter on the finish. Tasted twice; this reflects the better of two samples. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $29

83 Paul Cheneau NV Brut (Cava). This Cava has a funky nose that’s unusual. The palate

is a bit flabby, with sweet banana and peachy flavors. There’s not much to the finish and overall this comes across as overly simple and strained. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $13

82 Conde de Caralt NV Brut (Cava). Grassy on the nose, then foamy and abrasive on the

tongue, with a mix of oxidized flavors, bitter citrus and grassy accents. It finishes pithy tasting and citrusy. W. J. Deutsch & Sons Blue Division. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10


ROSÉS

87 Vega Sindoa 2011 Garnacha Rosé (Na-varra). Here’s a rosé from last season that’s still

bright and lively. Aromas of raspberry and watermelon are fresh and inviting, while the palate is medium in in-tensity, with red licorice and strawberry flavors. Drink now and this wine should still be crisp and refreshing. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

86 Bodegas Julián Chivite 2011 Gran Feudo Rosado Garnacha (Navarra). This wine is

dusty on the nose, with aromas of red pepper flake, cit-rus and red fruits. It’s fleshy in the mouth and showing grip along with flavors of pomegranate, pink grapefruit and tangerine. Solid, cleansing and dry on the finish. Drink now. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Borsao 2011 Rosé (Campo de Borja). Cherry and crisp red currant aromas are racy

and tutti-frutti in character. The palate delivers kick and acidity in addition to dry, pithy flavors of citrus fruits and nectarine. Dryness persists onto the finish, which is friendly but modest. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

84 Bodegas Ontañón 2011 Mediel Rosé (Navarra). Plum and cherry aromas seem a

touch oxidized. The palate holds it together but doesn’t offer much, while flavors of chunky berry and plum are hollow and show additional oxidation. Like many inex-pensive 2011 rosés, this is past its prime. Cavatappi Dis-tribuzione. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

83 Pushpin 2011 Global Garnacha Rosé (Campo de Borja). Dusty cherry and plum

aromas are nothing special. The palate is similarly just OK, with stalky flavors of citrus and red fruits. This is lightly oxidized and pithy tasting on the finish. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

SPANISH REDS

TORO

95 Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2009 Termanthia (Toro). This Toro wine is a mindblower. The

nose is exemplary: it bursts with smooth, rooty aromas of licorice, kirsch and roasted black plum. The palate is huge and tannic but luxurious, and the flavors of to-bacco, cedar, lemon peel, spice and black fruit set up a finish with espresso, black cherry and a wall of tannins. Drink now through 2018. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $200

92 Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2009 Numanthia (Toro). This modern wine is blocky, minty and

dark as night on the bouquet. In the mouth, it’s lush but with some hardness to the tannins. Flavors of black-berry, lemon peel and coffee are sultry and dark, while

the finish overflows with toast, licorice, spice and chewi-ness. Drink now–2018. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $60

91 Elias Mora 2009 Gran (Toro). Gran is a step up from Mora’s crianza. The nose deals marzi-

pan, blackberry, raisin and chocolate aromas in front of a smooth, layered palate with toasted berry, vanilla and chocolate flavors. There’s a ton of oak on this wine, creating a vanilla and caramel character on the finish. Drink now through 2017. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

90 Elias Mora 2009 Crianza (Toro). Charred oak, maple, tobacco and berry aromas are full

and clean. The palate is solid but not so polished and smooth that there’s no edge to things. Flavors of mocha and leather support core black-fruit notes, and then va-nilla rushes in on the finish and takes over. Drink now through 2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Bodegas Fariña 2011 Third Generation Dama de Toro (Toro). Briary plum and berry

aromas come with a touch of cola, while the palate is full of fresh berry flavors, floral leanings and ripeness. This is fresh, fruity and fun to drink; think Beaujolais and give it a mild chill before pouring. Specialty Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

87 Bodegas Fariña 2009 Third Generation 70th Anniversary (Toro). Aromas of baked

earth blend with sassy, almost prickly cherry and leather notes in front of what amounts to a dense, slightly gum-my feeling palate. Flavors of plum and berry are medici-nal, while the ripe finish shows power, a chewy texture and mild heat. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 Bodegas Fariña 2006 Third Generation Dama de Toro Crianza (Toro). Rubbery, flo-

ral aromas of raspberry and cherry along with wet ce-ment get this mature Toro wine going. The palate of-fers fleshy fruit and firm tannins, while the flavor profile brings floral, leafy, leathery flavors in front of a solid, fresh feeling and leafy tasting finish. Drink now. Spe-cialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Finca Sobreño 2009 Toro. After opening with prickly aromas, this medium-bodied Toro

settles on fresh and edgy, with crisp red plum flavors topped with a touch of chocolaty oak. It’s zesty and shows drive on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

86 Bodegas Campiña 2009 Contadero Jo-ven (Toro). Dense berry aromas give this wine

a pasty, weighty bouquet. It feels scratchy in the mouth, with plum and red-fruit flavors. This wine runs short on specifics while offering a juicy feel and a hint of choco-laty young oak on the finish. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

86 Bodegas Fariña 2011 Vino Pr1mero (Toro). Candied blueberry aromas are fresh

and suggest some power to come. Indeed, this wine is

chunky on the palate, with grapy dark-fruit flavors that are generic but friendly. Made with carbonic macera-tion, this Toro is suggestive of Beaujolais. Specialty Cel-lars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Pagos del Rey 2011 Bajoz Tempranillo (Toro). Earthy aromas and mild funk infiltrate

the bouquet, rendering it a step below pure and fresh. The palate on this wine is tight, with acidity poking through to lend crispness to red plum and berry flavors. Tangy on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 No BS 2009 Tempranillo-Garnacha (Toro). For $9, one can be satisfied with the

value, but this wine does smell a bit sour and herbal, while the feel is angular and acidic. In the mouth, fla-vors match suit: punchy red fruits with an herbal twinge. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

RIBERA DEL DUERO

93 Astrales 2009 Ribera del Duero. Astrales, one of Ribera’s best wineries, bottled a struc-

tured, serious wine in 2009. Aromas of coconut, asphalt, cola and gritty black fruits set up a palate with oaky, dark, spicy flavors of blackberry, tire rubber and mild herbal accents. Oak and char define the finish on this potent, modern-style Tempranillo. Drink now through 2022. Grapes of Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

93 Protos 2005 Gran Reserva (Ribera del Duero). This is the best Protos wine I’ve ever

tasted. The nose offers up tobacco, moss and soft berry aromas. In the mouth, it’s intense, deep and still tannic, with baked, earthy flavors of blackberry, plum, tobacco and coconut. The finish is stuffed with chocolate, herb, spice and cola flavors along with undeniable density. An excellent wine to drink now through 2020. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $100

92 Arrocal 2005 Máximo (Ribera del Duero). No doubt that this is a big, extracted, mature

wine with heavy, mossy aromas, but in the midst are prune, shoe polish and toasty aromas that darken ev-erything up. In the mouth, it’s saturated and sticky, with tons of oak-based spice, pepper and baked-fruit fla-vors. The finish is chewy, earthy and baked; drink now through 2017. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $115

92 Montevannos 2005 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). What’s great about this wine is how

it blends modernity, meaning ripeness, with tradition-al aromas and flavors of tobacco, earth and oak. The nose is a symphony of marzipan, tobacco and dried fruit scents, while the palate is fresh, alert and houses flavors of baked cherry, plum, vanilla and mossy earth. Pure and smooth on the finish; drink now through 2018. Spain Wine Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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91 Matarromera 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Everything about this crianza is ap-

pealing. The nose is roasted and earthy, with leafy spice notes matched up against black-fruit aromas. The feel is layered and lush, while dense flavors of prune, black-berry and peppery spice go well together. Overall this is a powerful wine with no shortage of rubber, licorice and peppercorn on the finish. Best from 2014–2018. Matar-romera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Montevannos 2005 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). For a crianza with eight years of age,

this is still fresh and tight as a drum. The bouquet deals earthy, roasted berry aromas while the palate is earthy and toasty, with chocolate and loads of berry flavor. The finish is woody, smoky, firm and focused; drink now through 2016. Spain Wine Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

91 Protos 2009 Selección Finca El Grajo Viejo (Ribera del Duero). This single-vine-

yard Tempranillo is masculine and dark, as evidenced by aromas of licorice, pepper, blackberry, coconut and campfire. It’s mouthfilling and oaky, with toasty, dark, baked-fruit flavors that lead to a finish defined by lico-rice and clove. Overall it’s black, spicy and impressive; drink from 2015–2020. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

90 Emina 2009 Prestigio (Ribera del Due-ro). Prestigio is dense and plush on the bou-

quet, with concentrated blackberry, cassis and cumin aromas that come across entirely positive. The palate is ultra ripe and packed with earthy, baked flavors of rai-sin, black plum and Middle Eastern spice notes. Things turn meaty, rich and a bit soft on the finish. Drink now through 2015. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $28

90 Monte Pinadillo 2009 Ciranza (Ribera del Duero). Black fruit, raisin and minerally aro-

mas combine to create a formidable bouquet. The pal-ate is juicy and fresh, with substance and structure in support of blackberry, spice cake and licorice flavors. The finish is long, with slightly rubbery flavors. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Protos 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Traditional oak-based aromas of mint, dill, to-

bacco, vanilla and coconut sit on top of tarry black-fruit scents. In the mouth, this is a snappy, tight, structured wine with flavors of oak, coffee, licorice, spice and black-berry. It’s stylish on the finish, with toasty, peppery fla-vors that linger for a good, long while. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32

89 Arrocal 2011 Seis Meses en Barrica (Ri-bera del Duero). If you want pure Ribera

fruit, then go with this lightly oaked youngster. Along with graphite and dusty notes, the bouquet shows wild berry aromas with few limits. The mouthfeel is round, tannic and rubbery, with full-volume berry and plum

flavors. This finishes dark, dense and it doesn’t vacillate. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

89 Resalte 2011 Vendimia Seleccionada (Ri-bera del Duero). Spiced berry, dry oak and a

note of latex define the nose on this ripe, likable, friend-ly Tempranillo. The wine is lively on the palate, with candied, jumpy flavors of berry fruits that finish with some foxiness and a wet-fur note. The emphasis here is on fresh fruit more than power or oakiness. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 Valduero 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Due-ro). Sweet, spicy oak is the dominant smell on

this racy, youthful wine that’s packed with aromas of co-conut, cola and pepper. On the palate, oak remains front and center, while plum, raspberry, butter and vanilla fla-vors rest in back. The finish is crisp and focused; drink now through 2019. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Alidis 2011 Tinto 6 Meses en Barrica (Ri-bera del Duero). This cool, collected RDD

opens with cola, earth, moss and berry aromas along with charred notes that suggest campfire and shoe pol-ish. The palate is solid and feels right, while flavors of charred berry, herbal plum and carob precede a mossy finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Dolmo 2011 Vendimia Seleccionada Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). For full

review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

88 O. Fournier 2007 Alfa Spiga Tinto del Pais (Ribera del Duero). Dry, oaky spice and earth

notes rest on top of mulchy berry fruit and leather aro-mas. In the mouth, this is tannic and grabby, with herbal notes and bitterness blended with plum and berry fla-vors. Having spent 20 months in oak, the finish is load-ed with mint, toast, charred bitterness and herbal ac-cents. A quality wine but one with some shortcomings. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

88 Viña Arnáiz 2009 Roble (Ribera del Du-ero). With dark aromas of prune, black tea and

baked earth, this is a ripe, modern wine with sound bal-ance and depth of flavor. It deals a nice mix of fresh ber-ry fruit flavors blended with oak, while the finish rings on with spice, mint and proper acidity. Colección Inter-nacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Bodegas Ontañón 2008 Crianza Teón (Ribera del Duero). Gritty red berry and latex

aromas form a sweet, medicinal bouquet. The palate is tight, with rubbery tannins that provide the foundation for plum, boysenberry and raspberry flavors. This is a fruity wine with mild peppery bitterness and chocolate on the finish. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Legaris 2006 Reserva (Ribera del Du-ero). Initial cola, cassis and cherry aromas

are offset by a compost-like, leathery set of smells. In the mouth, it’s scratchy feeling and slightly abrasive, with leafy, earthy flavors of baked berry leading to a spicy tasting but dull feeling finish. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

87 O. Fournier 2007 Ribera del Duero. Toasty oak aromas hit hard off the bat, while the olfac-

tory backing includes raspberry and cherry scents. The mouth is zesty and crisp, with sizzling acidity that cre-ates a gritty flavor profile of red plum and currant. The finish is dry and tight, with pomegranate redness and cleansing, raw acidity. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

87 Peña Roble 2011 Ribera del Duero. This wine is quite fruity on the nose. Next, it’s dense

and solid in the mouth, however the flavors turn quickly towards syrupy berry and stewed black fruits. A raisin-like flavor pops up on the finish to accompany chewy tannins and a pasty feeling residue. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Roquesán 2011 Tinto Joven (Ribera del Duero). Big fruit and substantive earthy notes

give this young Ribera a nice start. In the mouth, it’s a bouncy wine with freshness and controlled tannins. Boy-senberry, blueberry and chocolate flavors are backed by rubbery grip on the finish. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Arroyo 2008 Crianza (Ribera del Due-ro). For an inexpensive wine, this offers plenty

of wood spice, vanilla, char and toast on the nose. The palate smacks hard with drawing tannins, while flavors of medicinal plum and raspberry carry a charred after-taste. Good as a whole, with oak dominating the finish. Mindeza Trading Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Federico Paternina 2008 Marqués de Val-paraiso Crianza (Ribera del Duero). The

nose on this wine smells candied for the most part, with a pinch of minerality to go with sweet red berry and red licorice scents. The mouthfeel is crisp and fresh, while cherry, red plum and cassis flavors lead onto an active finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Viña Gormaz 2011 Vendimia Selecciona-da Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). There’s

plenty of berry fruit on the nose of this Ribera red. The palate feels fresh and acidic, with a mild streak of softer, buttery oak. Flavors of crisp plum and cassis are sharp-ened by said acidity yet smoothed out by oaky vanilla on the finish. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Alidis 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Overall this wine is decent at best. It’s distinctly

rustic and herbal on the nose, with leafy, leathery aro-mas along with stewed fruit scents. The palate has a good feel to it, by far the wine’s chief attribute, but the


flavors echo the bouquet via leafy, herbal plum and but-tery oak. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

84 Bodegas Peñafiel 2007 Miros de Ribera Crianza (Ribera del Duero). The aromas

here suggest something artificial, either candle wax or air freshener combined with red fruits. The palate has a narrow feel with ample acidity and a light body for Ri-bera del Duero. Flavors run in the direction of stewed plum, while the finish feels rough and tastes a bit raisiny. Vino Cava. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $27

84 Pico Cuadro 2008 La Casa de las Esen-cias Crianza (Ribera del Duero). This basic

Ribera smells a lot like compost. The feel is sticky, while the flavors lean towards herbal and oaky, with a weedy note thrown in. It tastes a bit green and feels weighty on the finish. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

RIOJA

91 Pujanza 2007 Norte (Rioja). Big, dark fruit aromas come with notes of tobacco, earth and

violet flower. The palate feels layered and fresh, with a mix of berry fruit, vanilla, tobacco and spice flavors that culminate with vanilla, mocha and spice on the fin-ish. This is a thorough Rioja to drink now through 2016. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $95

89 Casa Primicia 2007 Julian Madrid Reser-va (Rioja). No two ways about it, there’s a lot of

barbecued character to this Tempranillo-led blend. The palate draws down due to tannic clamp, but the wine’s plum and berry flavors are not tamped down as vanilla and savory notes bring it full circle. Drink now through 2017. Vin Divino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Marqués de la Concordia 2007 Hacien-da de Susar (Rioja). The nose on this wine

is condensed and tight, with snappy berry aromas that come across fresh. The palate feel is lively and juicy, while flavors of plum, berry and tobacco are honest and appealing. Straightforward and convincing as a whole, with a solid structure. Drink now through 2017. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Sierra Cantabria 2008 Reserva Única (Rioja). Roasted, rubbery, savory aromas in-

clude lesser notes of graphite, licorice, toast and berrry fruit. The wine feels plump, round and full for a 2008, with grabby tannins and oaky, spicy flavors of toasted berry. It’s lasting and savory on the finish, with leftover oak. Drink now through 2018. Jorge Ordoñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Baron De Ley 2009 Finca Monasterio Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon (Rioja).

Roasted, toasty aromas are the greeting on this Tem-pranillo-based blend (20% Cabernet). It’s a fresh yet oaky type of Rioja, with resiny creaminess cut by lively

acidity. Flavors of vanilla, plum, raspberry and tobacco are traditional, while the finish is mild, crisp and snap-py. Hold until 2014 and drink through 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

88 Beronia 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Dry, smoky, rubbery aromas announce this Rioja as tradi-

tional in style. The palate is healthy in feel and juicy, with smoky, savory flavors of chocolaty berry fruit and earth. On the finish, it’s decidedly roasted and savory in character. Drink now through 2015. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Criadores de Rioja 2007 Castillo Clavijo Reserva (Rioja). Here’s a subdued wine with

mild vanilla, tobacco, dried plum and raspberry aromas. It’s flush and fruity on the palate, with an open-knit feel and friendly flavors of raspberry, vanilla and tobacco. On the finish, mocha, pastry and toast elements enter the picture. Drink now through 2015. W. J. Deutsch & Sons Blue Division. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17

88 Heredad Ugarte 2008 Martin Cendoya (Rioja). The opening is nice and chunky, with

jammy blackberry aromas. The palate on this Tempra-nillo-led Rioja is full-bodied, with grip and flavors of herbal berry, tea, smoked meat and lemony oak. There’s a hint of green to the medium-length finish, which is firm in feel and oaky in flavor. EU Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

88 Sierra Cantabria 2007 Reserva (Rioja). The nose on this reserva is roasted and meaty,

with dark berry accents. The palate delivers a flush feel and volume along with flavors of roasted plum, herb-al raspberry and salt. There’s tobacco and pimiento on the finish, and for a subpar vintage the wine is still very good. Drink now through 2017. Jorge Ordoñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Vaza 2009 Crianza (Rioja). Clean, fresh aromas of plum, raspberry and cherry give this

wine a red-fruited personality. The mouthfeel supplies grip and mild tannic clamp, while flavors of plum and berry come with a touch of resiny oak. This crianza is textured and solid on the finish, but still fresh. Drink now through 2017. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Finca Valpiedra 2007 Reserva (Rioja). The nose here is a bit herbal, with a sugges-

tion of eucalyptus along with blackberry and plum. The mouthfeel on this wine is clampy but solid, while the fla-vors of herbal, roasted berry fruits and moss lead into a mildly herbal and earthy finish. There’s a lot of olive-like character to this wine. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

87 Sancho Barón 2009 Rioja. Fresh raspber-ry and mild Hungarian oak aromas get his racy

Tempranillo going in the right direction. The palate is clean and neither heavy nor sticky, with vanilla, wood resin, dry spice and berry flavors. Overall it’s juicy, fresh

and perky. Drink now through 2018. Frontier Wine Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Sierra Cantabria 2008 Crianza (Rioja). This opens with barnyard, rubber, oaky vanilla

and black-fruit aromas. The palate is solid in feel, with acidity sitting front and center. Flavors of oak and vanil-la lead to raspberry and plum notes, and there’s a salty element to the medium-length finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Finca Nueva 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Raisin, sandalwood, spa candle and flower petal aromas

give this a light and interesting bouquet. In the mouth, it’s wide and sort of flabby, with exotic blue-fruit flavors and a hint of spice. Mild in flavor and feel on the finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

85 Muga 2008 Reserva Unfiltered (Rioja). Dry spice and brick-dust aromas frame com-

mon berry scents. In the mouth, this is surprisingly sharp, with acidity in the lead. Flavors of tart berry are midlevel, and there’s mild sourness and herbal notes in the background. For Muga, this is exceedingly crisp as a whole. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

85 Viña Cerrada 2007 Reserva (Rioja). This wine smells hard and lemony, and thus it’s not

surprising that the palate feels citric and tangy, with hard tannins. The flavor profile includes lemony oak, rubbery red fruit and mild earthy flavors in front of a drying finish. Drink now. Mindeza Trading Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

82 Palacios Remondo 2008 Propiedad (Rio-ja). This wine is raisiny on the front end, heavy

and prune-driven in the middle, and even more raisiny on the finish. Overripe in style with 60% Garnacha and 40% Tempranillo. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

81 Federico Paternina 2007 Banda Azul Cri-anza Red (Rioja). Pasty, chemical aromas do

little to draw you in. The palate on this everyday Rioja is scratchy, while flavors of tart fruit with rubbery, pasty overtones fail to elevate the wine. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

CAMPO DE BORJA

88 Borsao 2011 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page

10. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $8

87 Borsao 2011 Viña Borgia Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page

10. Best Buy.abv: 14% Price: $7

86 Crucillon 2011 Tinto Garnacha (Campo de Borja). This is yet another good Campo de

WineMag.com | 39

Borja wine relative to price. It’s hard and dark on the nose, but there’s nothing unusual or difficult about the bouquet. The palate is lively in feel, with candied rasp-berry and lightly herbal strawberry flavors. The finish is fresh and juicy, with medicinal notes. Scoperta Import-ing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

85 Pagos del Moncayo 2011 Garnacha-Syr-ah (Campo de Borja). This is punchy and an-

gular up front, with herbal red-fruit aromas. The palate feels fresh, a bit acidic, with peppery, mildly oaky flavors of plum and berry. This is a standard wine with ample body and some oak. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

85 Penelope Sanchez 2011 Garnacha-Syrah (Campo de Borja). Aromatically speaking,

there’s bacon and plastic-like notes to the nose along with generic berry scents. The palate is medium in size and intense, with bold cherry and plum flavors as well as oaky backing. It finishes short, with rubbery accents and a distinct clove flavor. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

CALATAYUD

88 Cruz de Piedra 2011 Garnacha (Calata-yud). For $10 this is a serious, powerful Gar-

nacha with concentration and purity. The palate feels both crisp and lifted as well as dense and concentrated. There’s quality to the flavor profile, which offers rub-bery, dense blueberry along with blackberry. Rarely does a value-priced wine show this much weight and texture. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

88 Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2009 Span-ish Red Blend (Calatayud). For full review

see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

86 Acentor 2011 Garnacha (Calatayud). This is a big, ripe Garnacha with raisiny aromas,

gumminess and green hints to the bouquet. The palate is thick and chewy, with tannic clamp and flavors of pas-try, berry jelly and lactic blueberry. On the finish, things revert to raisin and prune. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

86 Bodegas San Isidro 2010 Fabla Old Vines Grenache (Calatayud). This standard

Garnacha is good and honest on the nose, with fresh red-berry aromas. In the mouth, it’s snappy and kind of lean, with a lightweight composition and zesty flavors of raspberry and cherry. It’s quick to finish, with a note of vanilla. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 Lo Nuevo 2010 Sorbo a Sorbo Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Burnt, stalky, toast-

ed aromas dominate this inexpensive Garnacha, and there’s not much freshness to the nose as a result. In the mouth, it’s more of the same; things are heavy, with fully oaked flavors of medicinal berry, hickory and barbecued meat. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

83 Picos Pardos 2010 Garnacha Fusión (Ca-latayud). This wine is creamy, lactic and jam-

my on the nose, with flat, earthy, baked berry aromas. It’s grabby and sort of gummy and soft feeling, with lac-tic strawberry and plum flavors that set up a creamy, sticky finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

81 Agustín Cubero 2010 Unus Old Vine Gar-nacha (Calatayud). This is a just-acceptable

wine with latex, roasted berry and plastic-like aromas. It’s heavy in the mouth, with jumbled, roasted flavors of rubbery fruit and forced oak. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

CARIÑENA

88 Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo 2010 Men-guante Garnacha (Cariñena). Although the

bouquet is a bit scratchy, bright, lightly candied aromas of raspberry and strawberry jam are friendly and wel-coming. The wine is firm on the palate and well built, with fresh, slightly jammy tasting plum and berry fla-vors. And it’s lasting and fresh on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Lelia 2011 Garnacha (Cariñena). Lively cherry and berry aromas come with a touch of

prickle and snap. The palate has a wiry, energetic feel, and the flavors of berry and cherry satisfy and come with aftertastes of molasses and baked sweetness. Fron-tier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Valcantara 2011 Old Vine Garnacha (Cari-ñena). This young Garnacha is fresh and fruity,

and entirely approachable and likable given the price. The palate is fairly smooth and medium in weight, with blackberry flavors that fade to darkness on the finish. This was made for everyday sipping. Epic Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

86 Beso de Vino 2010 Old Vine Garnacha (Cariñena). The nose on this value wine is raw

and citrusy, with a note of earthy leather. The palate feel is plump and soft, with rubbery, jammy flavors of herbal berry fruit and rubber. The finish is short and jammy, but bright and forward. Steve Miles Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Marqués de Almonacid 2009 Vendim-ia Seleccionada Tempranillo-Garnacha

(Cariñena). Gritty plum, peppery spice and herbal aromas lead to a tangy, fairly high-acid palate. The fla-vors are a mix of earthiness, pasty berry and red currant, while the finish is short, juicy and lightly oaked. For $10 it’s a fair wine. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Marques de la Musa 2011 Garnacha (Cariñena). Raspberry and milk chocolate aro-

mas are simple and come across a bit like plastic. The wine is narrow on the palate, with herbal plum flavors,

while the finish is short and doesn’t elevate things. Even at $9 this is regular in overall quality. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

83 Abrazo 2009 Crianza Tempranillo-Garna-cha (Cariñena). This 50-50 blend of Garna-

cha and Tempranillo has a green, ashy sway to the nose. The palate runs sharp, with pointed acidity leading to a mix of basic acid-washed plum and cherry flavors that are ultimately defined by a green, herbal undercurrent. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Chispas 2011 Tinto Garnacha (Cariñe-na). This is a prickly, slightly raspy wine with a

lean, grabby feel and briny, pickled flavors of herbal red-berry fruits. It’s resiny tasting on the finish, with a snap-py feel and lasting herbal flavors. Vino Cava. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

82 Abrazo 2011 Garnacha (Cariñena). Scratchy, candied aromas of red fruits get things

off to a rough start. The wine is acidic in feel, with tart, herbal red-fruit flavors. And it finishes pickled, with an herbal sharpness. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $NA

CATALUNYA

88 Albet I Noya 2011 Petit Albet Made with Organic Grapes Tempranillo-Garnacha

(Catalunya). For a $12 wine, this blend of Tempra-nillo and Garnacha is clean on the bouquet, with cherry and raspberry aromas leading the way. The feel is vi-brant and bouncy, while flavors of red berry, plum and light oak set up a chocolaty finish with dry spice and mild buttery flavors. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

88 Bodegas 1898 2011 Campo Lindo Tradi-cional Tempranillo (Catalunya). For full re-

view see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $12

88 Bodegas 1898 2011 Ramón Roqueta Tempranillo (Catalunya). This is a very nice

value wine with balsam wood, almond candy, cola and black-fruit aromas. The palate feels pure and fresh, with a ton of plum, berry, cocoa and tobacco flavors. It’s smooth, long and solid on the finish. First Tier Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Torres 2011 Sangre de Toro Tempranillo (Catalunya). This Tempranillo is forward in

style, with leather, cherry, plum and smoky aromas. It feels racy and healthy, with buttery oak, vanilla, herb and mild raspberry and red plum flavors. This is good as a whole, with no one characteristic sticking out. Drey-fus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Jellybean Wines 2011 Berry Smooth (Catalunya). This is floral on the nose, but also

candied smelling. So don’t be surprised that the palate, while friendly and fruity, is also sticky in feel with a syr-


upy core flavor that’s suggestive of residual sugar. That said, this jellybean is an easy drinker. OFFbeat Brands. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

LA MANCHA

90 Volver 2010 Single Vineyard Tempranillo (La Mancha). For full review see page 9.

abv: 15% Price: $16

87 Parra Family 2010 Viña Cuesta Colorá Tempranillo (La Mancha). This wine has

authenticity. It doesn’t push too hard while delivering punchbowl and spice aromas in front of a layered, nicely flowing palate with roasted, smoky flavors of bold berry and savory oak. It is what it is: honest and well made. Parra Family Organic Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Earth 3.0 2010 Made with Organic Grapes Tempranillo (La Mancha). Dry plum and

cherry aromas seem hard and capped. The palate feels scratchy, with chunky berry flavors and a tough black-pepper finish. This is really basic in flavors and composi-tion. Parra Family Organic Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN

92 Aldeasoña 2006 Tinto del Pais (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Earthy straw-

berry, plum and cherry aromas are fruity but also sly and complex. The palate on this Tempranillo is big, satisfy-ing and only mildly tannic, with soft, rich berry flavors touched up by butter and vanilla. Keeping that theme in play, the finish is oaky but not cloying or sticky. Drink now through 2017. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

89 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez 2006 De-hesa la Granja Tempranillo (Vino de la

Tierra de Castilla y León). There’s no debating this wine’s power and concentration: it’s packed and strong, with aromas of latex, animal hide, cherry and clay. The palate feels meaty and chewy, with smooth tannins and a mix of roasted plum, berry, smoked meat, spice and leathery flavors. Things stay roasted and beefy on the long finish. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

81 Bodegas Fariña 2011 Peromato Tem-pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y

León). This is one raw, choppy, strained Tempranil-lo. The nose is sweaty and severely herbal, with stalky smelling red-fruit aromas. It’s hard on the palate, with burnt, green-leaning pie cherry flavors, and the finish is bitter. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

TIERRA DE CASTILLA

87 Bodegas Navarro López 2011 Para Cel-sus Made with Organically Grown Grapes

Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Invit-

ing berry and dark plum aromas are matched by spice notes and depth. The palate feels ripe and full, maybe a touch scratchy, with generous flavors of berry fruits, licorice and toast. For a value wine this shows inten-sity and good flavors. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Bodegas Navarro López 2011 Rojo Gran-rojo Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon

(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This blend is crisp and reasonably well focused on the bouquet. In the mouth, the wine is rubbery and tannic feeling, with mild astringency and flavors of generic berry fruit, oak and herbs. Good for basic occasions. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 Bodegas Navarro López 2011 Rojo Gran-rojo Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla). Peppery raspberry aromas are sassy and prickly. The palate holds its own but is modest over-all, while flavors of medicinal red fruits carry an herbal streak. This is quiet on the finish, almost to the point of muteness. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

82 Bodegas Abanico 2011 Sinfonia Tempra-nillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Gritty,

piercing aromas of herbal, leafy red fruits do little to set this wine on course. In the mouth, it’s high-toned and acidic, and thus the flavors are tart, choppy and short. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

OTHER RED WINES

91 Finca El Monegrillo 2007 Noviembre Shi-raz-Cabernet Sauvignon (Manchuela).

This blend of Syrah and Cabernet from Manchuela is earthy, baked and mature, with an intriguing mix of peppery spice aromas, leafiness and stewed fruit notes. The palate is rich in feel, with baked berry, dark spice, tobacco and licorice flavors. Overall, this is a rooty, earthy wine to drink now. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

91 Viñas del Cenit 2009 Via Cenit Tempranil-lo (Tierra del Viños de Zamora). From the

Zamora region, this Tempranillo is dark, well oaked and dense. The nose is full of black cherry and charred oak that gives off a shoe polish scent. The palate is round and smooth, with oak-dominated black fruit and minty, spicy flavors. A modern, meaty wine by any measure. Drink now through 2020. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Finca Sandoval 2007 Cuvée TNS (Man-chuela). This blend of 66% Touriga Nacional

and one-third Syrah is unique for Spain but qualifies as “international” in style. Cola, blueberry and floral aro-mas dominate, giving way to an easy feeling palate with cola, molasses, brown sugar and blackberry flavors. It’s flavorful and rich but not overly complex or layered; drink this magnum now through 2017. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $144/1.5 L

90 Marques de Griñon 2007 + Summa Va-rietals Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit

Verdot (Dominio de Valdepusa). This multigrape blend opens with spicy aromas of baked plum, tomato and cumin. The mouthfeel is fresh and dry, with focus. In terms of flavors, it’s earthy, with baked berry, bak-ing spice and licorice notes. The finish is smooth and earthy tasting, with roundness. Drink now through 2016. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 Coto de Gomariz 2007 XV Cuvée Caco (Ribeiro). This blend from Galicia is very nice,

with black cherry, herb and composed earthy aromas. The mouthfeel is fresh and structured, and overall the wine’s balance is where it should be. Flavors of black cherry and spiced plum lead to a slightly tangy and acid-ic finish. P.R. Grisley Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Marques de Griñon 2007 Single Vine-yard Estate Bottled Syrah (Dominio de

Valdepusa). Like many Syrahs from Central Spain, this is deep and a little stewy, with kirsch, plum and baked aromas. The palate feels flush and just juicy enough, with rich berry, plum and blueberry flavors that carry onto the finish, which is mild and spicy. Drink now through 2015. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Museum 2008 Real Reserva (Cigales). This is a heady, mature wine with lots of ripe

berry aromas, earth and spicy oak notes to the nose. In the mouth, it’s solid and structured, with deep, lightly baked raspberry, plum and brown sugar flavors. The fin-ish is full, chunky and medium in length. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Bodega Otto Bestué 2009 Finca Santa Sabina Cabernet Sauvignon-Tempranillo

(Somontano). In the small, mountainous region of Somontano, Cabernet Sauvignon rules, and this blend of 80% Cab and 20% Tempranillo delivers. Starting out, aromas of blackberry and plum come with earthy leather notes. The palate is plump and chewy in feel, with meaty black-fruit flavors of plum, molasses and toast. The finish is warm and smooth. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 Lagar de Besada 2010 Henoba Tempra-nillo (Spain). This earthy number is authen-

tic for Tempranillo. Aromas of dried leaves, leather and herbal berry are attractive and set up mossy black plum flavors. There’s a nice texture and chunky power to this traditional but generous wine. Turquoise Life. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Marqués de Caro 2009 Colección Privada Crianza (Valencia). Fresh red-berry aromas

offer a clean opening. This blend of Bobal, Tempranil-lo and Cabernet Sauvignon is snappy and crisp in feel, with flavors of fresh tomato, raspberry, red plum and vanilla. The finish is fresh and friendly, with a hint of scour. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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87 Vega Sindoa 2010 El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vines Garnacha (Navarra).

This is a dark bomber with black cherry, kirsch, lem-ony oak and shoe polish aromas. The palate is creamy and big, with acid-derived lift boosting blackberry and licorice flavors. With tons of black-fruit character, this qualifies as a fruit-forward wine with sweet overtones. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Bodega Otto Bestué 2009 Finca Rable-ros Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon

(Somontano). This Tempranillo-Cabernet blend be-gins with scratchy, earthy aromas of moss, leather and herbal red fruits. It’s alert and lively in the mouth, with strawberry, plum, raspberry and citrusy flavors. The fin-ish hollows out and shows good length and a light struc-ture. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Coto de Gomariz 2007 Abadía de Go-mariz (Ribeiro). This small-production blend

from Ribeiro is fragrant, with vibrant red-berry and flo-ral aromas. In the mouth, it’s tangy and lean, with more acidity than body. Flavors are mostly generic in nature, leaning towards cherry and plum, while the finish is raw. This is more of a food wine than a sipper. P.R. Grisley Company. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $35

86 Evohé 2011 Viñas Viejas Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Gállego-Cin-

co Villas). The palate on this Tempranillo has smack-ing acids that create crisp flavors of raspberry and red plum, and there’s a pinch of oaky vanilla for counterbal-ance. Overall this is juicy, fresh and simple. Domaine Napa Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Parés Baltà 2010 Indigena Garnatxa (Penedès). This Garnacha is maderized, with

leafy aromas of burnt rubber, herbs, tea and spice more than bold fruit. The palate has a light feel, with buttery creaminess and flavors of vanilla, butter, licorice, black cherry, cassis and medicinal raisin. The finish is a bit hot and raw. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Manuel Manzaneque 2005 Nuestra Se-lección (Finca Élez). This single-pago wine

is earthy, rooty, herbal and almost grassy smelling. The mouthfeel is clampy, with dried berry, herbal shadings and a chunky, earthy finish. As a whole there’s a malty character to this wine, but it has elements of quality and character. Wine Symphony, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $36

85 Scala Dei 2010 Negre Garnacha (Prio-rat). This is a stewed, raisiny wine on the nose,

while in the mouth it’s more acidic and flush, but not quite elegant or sophisticated. The palate deals a short burst of heavy plum and berry flavor, and the finish is jammy and ripe but lacks complexity. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

84 Manuel Manzaneque 2006 Crianza (Fin-ca Élez). Raisin and brick dust aromas get this

mature wine going. The palate feels blocky and closed, with firm tannins and strong acidity. Flavors of earthy plum and raisin are echoed by vanilla and spare oak on the finish. Wine Symphony, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24

84 Torre León 2003 Gran Reserva Tempra-nillo (Valdepeñas). This wine is quite roasted

on the nose, with spice and barebecue aromas dominat-ing any fruit that might want to escape. The palate has a hard, tannic, rubbery outlook and flavors of mint, bar-becued meat, baked berry and plum. It remains roasted and savory tasting on the finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $30

83 Bodegas Navarro López 2006 Old Vines Gran Reserva Tempranillo (Valdepeñas).

This is herbal and tomatoey on the nose, then racy in feel, with little midlevel stuffing on the palate. Flavors of raspberry are dilute and offset by mild buttery oak notes. This wine shows some elements of classic Spain but weaknesses as well. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

82 Bodegas la Casa de Lúcolo 2010 Cátulo Garnacha (Navarra). This basic wine opens

with earthy red-berry aromas. The palate offers choppi-ness and green-leaning flavors of berry and tea. The fin-ish is scratchy and hollow. An OK Garnacha on its best day. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Bodegas Medina 2005 Jaloco (Extremad-ura). This is one unusual wine. It’s a blend of

Cabernet Sauvignon with Tempranillo and Garnacha, but it smells like a root-based perfume mixed with herbs and tobacco. It’s over the hill in feel and green and herb-al in flavor, with a raisiny aftertaste. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

SOUTH AFRICA

SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 Cape Point Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cape Point). A beautifully balanced

and well-crafted Sauvignon Blanc, opening with attrac-tive aromas of grapefruit pith, green fig and lime zest, all complemented with a soft saline accent. Lightweight, with medium acidity and a bright palate, flavors of green melon, citrus rind and a hint of dried grass linger into the medium-length finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Neil Ellis 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Groenekloof). Subtle spice and fresh hay ac-

cents add depth to this wine. Aromas and flavors of or-ange, lime and melon rind mingle with green fig and plum notes in the nose and on the vibrant palate. Hints of savory herb and pepper unfold and linger softly on the finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Tokara 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). A zesty and somewhat prickly Sauvi-

gnon Blanc, this starts off with scents of white melon rind, tart gooseberry, green pepper and sweet grass. The palate offers a more assertive citrusy flavor alongside hints of green fig and zesty spice. The close is juicy and refreshing. Enjoy now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Bouchard Finlayson 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay). The bouquet of this

wine is somewhat dainty, offering layered aromas of yellow apple, gooseberry, melon and crushed mineral. Ripe stone-fruit flavors add breadth to the dominating citrus notes, with a hint of sweet grass unfolding on the finish. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

87 Catherine Marshall 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin). A delicate feline note accents

the fresh herb, green gooseberry and lemon-rind aro-mas of this wine. The mouthfeel starts off round, but is quickly lifted by medium acidity to produce a brisk pal-ate with flavors of lemon and tart green berries. The fin-ish is lifted and somewhat sharp, but clean and refresh-ing. Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Groot Constantia 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Constantia). Soft hints of talc and fresh hay

accent the orange and lime core of this wine. Light-weight with medium-high acidity, fresh kiwi and white-melon rind flavors linger on the clean close. Drink now. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Southern Right 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay). Lemon, green gooseberry and

plum lead the nose and mouth of this refreshing Sauvi-gnon Blanc. The texture is ripe and fruit forward, but lifted with good acidic cut that ends on a mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Creation 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay). Faint suggestions of fynbos and aspara-

gus mingle with bright notes of orange peel, green plum and melon rind. Lively and easy, with good cut to the melon and plum flavors on the palate that end quickly but cleanly. Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Hermanuspietersfontein 2011 Nr 3 Sau-vignon Blanc (Walker Bay). A light, bright

and easygoing wine with clean notes of citrus, fresh-cut grass and lime zest. Lively acidity keeps the palate vi-brant and refreshing, ending with a mouthwatering, tart green-plum flavor. Drink up. Z Wines USA. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

84 Springfield Estate 2011 Life from Stone Sauvignon Blanc (Robertson). Green aro-

mas and flavors take center stage on this wine, with assertive notes of bell pepper, asparagus, green bean, grass and flint. The palate is somewhat astringent and


sharp, ending with a tart, saline finish. Vinecraft Distri-bution LLC. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

RED BLENDS

94 De Toren 2009 Fusion V (Stellenbosch). A layered and complex wine, the 2009 Fusion

V is one remarkable selection that’s delicious now, al-though it certainly shows the stuffing to age well for an-other three to five years, at least. Forward sweet-oak notes marry harmoniously with black-fruit aromas on the nose. The robust, dense palate offers ripe flavors of cassis, blackberry and plum, with accents of leath-er, tobacco and licorice that linger long into the fin-ish. Chewy, gripping tannins provide a firm structure, framing the full fruit flavors. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Vilafonté 2009 Series C (Paarl). This stun-ning wine is still quite young and shut-down on

the nose, taking its time in the glass to truly begin to open up. Once it does, scents of licorice root, chicory, cassis and black plum fill the bouquet. The mouthfeel is bold and powerful, with gripping tannins that coat the palate and support the dense black-fruit core. Accents of black-tea leaves and sweet spice grace the long finish. Drink 2014–2018. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $84

92 Ken Forrester 2009 The Gypsy Gre-nache-Syrah (Stellenbosch). The 2009

Gypsy, unlike the 2008, includes no Mourvèdre in the blend, meaning it’s just Grenache and Syrah, at about half each. This is a powerful and intense wine, with for-ward aromas and flavors of cherry, black plum and boy-senberry that are spiced with notes of crushed purple florals, black pepper and licorice. With medium-plus tannins, bold flavors, a firm texture and a long finish, this is one that is both drinking well now and should also age nicely through 2016. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Vilafonté 2009 Series M (Paarl). Vanilla cream and raspberry sauce lead the bouquet

of this Bordeaux-stlye blend, followed by darker fruit tones of boysenberry, plum and black cherry. Those notes continue on to the palate, filling the mouth and lending lushness to the crushed velvet texture. Strong but balanced, with a long, evolving finish that ends of a spicy, sweet-smoke accent. Drink now–2016. Broad-bent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $56

91 Reyneke 2008 Reserve Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This Shiraz-

based blend, with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, is bold and layered, taking time to unfold and develop in the glass. Blackberry, currant and wild raspberry notes lead the bouquet, but additional accents of game and herbs un-fold and mount in intensity. Flavors of red cherry and currant fill the palate, with hints of fynbos, cocoa and licorice stick staying well into the long finish. Firmly structured, with gripping tannins and concentrated fla-vors. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $75

91 Saronsberg 2008 Full Circle (Tulbagh). This Shiraz-based blend—with splashes of

Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier—is lush and rich, with notes of ripe blackberry, cherry and strawberry preserves backed by hints of fruit-cake spice and black pepper. The plush mouthfeel boasts similarly concen-trated dark-fruit flavors, and the finish boasts a deca-dent fudgy chocolate note that shows good staying pow-er. Drink now–2016. Wine Sources. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $42

90 De Toren 2009 Z (Stellenbosch). A Bor-deaux-style blend of 56% Merlot, 24% Caber-

net Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot, the Z is typically more immediately approachable than the Fusion V. The structure is still firm and supported by medium tannins, but the black-fruit core is the star all around, with lush notes of boy-senberry, crème de cassis, blackberry, fig and damson plum throughout. Hints of cigar-box spice and leather add depth and intrigue. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Glen Carlou 2009 Grand Classique Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot-Malbec-

Merlot-Cabernet Franc (Paarl). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Ken Forrester 2008 The Gypsy G-S-M (Western Cape). Fleshy fruit tones of cherry,

plum, blackberry and raspberry all abound on the nose of this G-S-M blend, alongside secondary hints of black pepper and cured meat. There’s a nice evolution to the medium-weight palate, which starts off with fruity dom-inance but then transitions to spice, followed by sweet smoke and finally ends of a decadent mocha flavor. It’s firmly textured with gripping tannins and a long finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

88 Ken Forrester 2007 Renegade G-S-M (Stellenbosch). Cured meat, game and men-

tholated herbal aromas lead on the nose of this Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvèdre blend, backed by fruity notes of red currant, plum and cherry. Those fruit-based aromas carry through to the round, approachable palate, with soft tannins and a peppered-mocha flavor that lingers on the finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

PINOT NOIR

91 Hamilton Russell 2010 Pinot Noir (Hemel en Aarde). This wine starts off bright and vi-

brant, with aromas of red-cherry skin, red currant and plum with touches of toasted oak and earth. The fruit flavors intensity on the palate, with additional accents of tea leaves, cocoa nib and black pepper that carry through to the medium-length finish. Surprisingly firm-ly structured, with gripping tannins and pronounced acidity. Drink 2014–2018. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $44

90 Creation 2011 Pinot Noir (Walker Bay). This wine leads with an intoxicatingly intense

nose, bursting with aromas of ripe raspberry, wild straw-

berry, sous bois and delicate mocha. On the palate, oak notes take center stage to the fruit flavors, but com-plement the satiny texture and spice up the medium-length finish. Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Catherine Marshall 2010 Six Barrels Re-serve Pinot Noir (Elgin). The herbaceous

quality and glimmers of sweet smoke add depth to the blueberry, red cherry and strawberry spine of this wine. The medium-weight mouth boasts a texture like crushed satin, soft and refined yet structured. An earthy note of sous bois remains through the long close. It’s drinking well now, but it should also age nicely through 2016. Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

85 Catherine Marshall 2010 Pinot Noir (Cape South Coast). The bouquet of this Pi-

not is light and dainty, with soft suggestions of red cur-rent, menthol and earthy spice. The palate offers an easy structure of light tannins and lean red-fruit flavors. Drink now. Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $26

85 Haute Cabrière 2011 Unwooded Pinot Noir (Franschhoek). Bright notes of straw-

berry and raspberry are backed by suggestions of carna-tion and talcum powder on the nose and palate of this light, vibrant Pinot Noir. A fleeting flavor of watermelon rind comes and goes on the short finish. Knauth & Viss-er LLC. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $15

85 Robertson Winery 2011 Pinot Noir (Rob-ertson). Attractive aromas of fresh raspberry

and strawberry lead the bouquet of this wine, with sec-ondary accents of mocha and earth. Bright and lively on the palate, with tart red-fruit flavors of currant and rhu-barb that carry through to a brisk, mouthwatering fin-ish. Drink now. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

PINOTAGE

92 Simonsig 2009 Redhill Pinotage (Stellen-bosch). Simonsig’s Redhill Pinotage is consis-

tently an excellent example of the variety done right, and the 2009 doesn’t disappoint. It’s brimming with assertive dark-fruit aromas and flavors of boysenber-ry, mulberry and plum, all jazzed up with spicy notes of vanilla, pepper and bittersweet cocoa powder. The mouthfeel is lush and full but not fat, with a texture like crushed velvet. Concentrated, firmly structured and balanced, while it’s delicious now with a big steak, it will surely develop more depth and nuance with some time in the cellar. Drink 2015–2020. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $32

91 Painted Wolf 2010 Guillermo Pinotage (Swartland). For full review see page 7. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

91 Simonsig 2008 Redhill Pinotage (Stel-lenbosch). This is a ripe, bold and fruit-for-

WineMag.com | 43

ward wine that’s creamy, lush and easily drinkable now. Rich, dark-fruit notes of brambly berry, boysenberry and black plum are spiced with notes of coconut cream, vanilla bean and whole black peppercorn. Although it might be flavorful, it’s also elegant and surprisingly quite accessible; drink now through 2016. Quintessen-tial Wines. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

90 Camberley 2011 Pinotage (Stellen-bosch). This wine starts off shy and reserved,

but with time in the glass or decanting, it opens up to reveal beautiful layers of dark fruits, crushed purple florals and earthy spices, all mingling harmoniously. A chocolate-fudge flavor adds decadence to the velvety, plush mouthfeel, and remains through the close along-side a touch of peppery spice. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $43

90 Robertson Winery 2010 Limited Release Phanto Ridge Pinotage (Robertson). For

full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $19

89 Kanonkop 2010 Pinotage (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). This classic Pinotage starts off

somewhat tight and closed, but the layers of ripe, dark fruit and sweet spice unfold with time spent in the glass. A hint of barnyard adds depth to the black plum and cherry fruit core, spiced with notes of fynbos and sweet smoke. Medium weight, with gripping tannins and con-centrated fruit flavors that suggest this is one for the cel-lar; try after 2015. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Southern Right 2010 Pinotage (Hemel en Aarde). The fruit center of this wine is very

ripe and fleshy, but the sprinkling of sweet yet peppery spice and soft gaminess provides depth and interest. The mouthfeel is lush and full, with a chocolate flavor that carries through to the medium-length close. Vine-yard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

88 Warwick 2009 Estate Old Bush Vines Pinotage (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch).

Minty fynbos aromas partner with sweet woody notes and ripe berry and cherry scents on the nose of this wine. The mouthfeel is full and powerful, with gripping tannins that provide a firm structure and a tea-like as-tringency of flavors that mix with the black-plum skin and boysenberry fruit center. A hint of fudge unfolds on the lingering finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

87 Chamonix 2009 Greywacke Pinotage (Franschhoek). This Pinotage shows great

balance and restraint, with almost Pinot-Noir-like char-acteristics of forest floor, earthy mushroom and tree-bark spice alongside the cherry and plum fruit core. It’s elegant and approachable now, with a silky texture and fine, fleeting tannins. Knauth & Visser LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $21

87 Laroche 2009 L’Avenir Pinotage (Stellen-bosch). This ripe and accessible wine starts off

with aromas of strawberry and black raspberry, dusted

with cocoa powder. The medium-weight palate offers bright fruit flavors and lifting acidity, framed by softly structured tannins. Drink now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $28

87 Neil Ellis 2009 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). Herbal accents of bramble and forest floor mix

with the dark fruit center of this wine. Medium acidity, firm yet fine tannins and a concentrated fruit palate pro-vide a full structure that’s also balanced and enjoyable now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 Simonsig 2009 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). A gamy accent adds depth to the blackberry-

driven bouquet of this wine. Additional hints of curing spice, pepper, licorice root and charred cedar unfold on the palate and linger through to the medium-length close. It’s firmly structured yet balanced, with medium acidity and gripping tannins. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Spier 2011 Vintage Selection Pinotage (Stellenbosch). Cinnamon, vanilla and toast-

ed-oak notes accent the black cherry, raspberry and boysenberry fruit core of this accessible wine. Ripe, mouthfilling black-fruit flavors carry through to the me-dium-length close. Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

86 Barista 2011 Pinotage (Western Cape). This is a spicy, lushly textured wine with con-

centrated aromas and flavors of black berries, bramble, chocolate, chicory and coffee. Ripe, dark fruit and berry flavors linger into the medium-length finish, with a soft note of earthy spice on the back. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Nederburg 2010 The Winemaker’s Re-serve Pinotage (Western Cape). An easy-

going, approachable wine to be enjoyed now, this of-fers upfront notes of blackberry, underripe plum, cured meat and soft tar. A kiss of vanilla lingers through to the medium-length finish. Drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

86 Tormentoso 2010 Bush Vine Pinotage (Paarl). Forward fruit aromas of boysenberry

and cherry are laced with accents of sweet smoke and oaky vanilla spice. These notes carry through to the me-dium-weight mouth, followed by a somewhat short yet clean finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $13

85 Laroche 2011 L’Avenir Pinotage (West-ern Cape). Herbal notes of bark and soft spice

mingle with red cherry and plum fruit aromas and fla-vors. This is bright and accessible now thanks to ap-proachable tannins and a clean, easygoing finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Robertson Winery 2011 Pinotage (Rob-ertson). Spiced meat, chocolate and brambly

berry notes lead the bouquet of this wine and follow through to the medium-weight palate. It’s juicy, with a short finish and easy structure. Drink now. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

91 Fairview 2009 Eenzaamheid Shiraz (Paarl). Eenzaamheid—Dutch for solitude—is

named in honor of the isolated vineyard that the grapes for this wine are sourced from. It leads with forward aromas of brambly forest berry, game and tree bark, alongside soft hints of cocoa and coffee. Medium weight with a ripe, fruity mouthfeel and earthy pepper notes that remain through the finish. Well balanced and struc-tured; drink now–2016. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $37

91 Hartenberg 2008 The Stork Shiraz (Stel-lenbosch). A big and bold Shiraz, dark fruit

aromas and flavors of fig, black cherry and plum abound. Glimmers of sweet spice and smoke unfold softly, show-ing the promise of additional complexities and nuance that should continue to develop with time. Firmly struc-tured tannins help to frame the lush, ripe palate, and prodive a gripping texture to the long close. Try after 2015 and beyond. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $114

91 Rudi Schultz 2009 Syrah (Stellenbosch). Soft foliage notes lead on the nose of this wine,

with supporting aromas of strawberry, raspberry and stewed rhubarb. The medium-weight mouth offers moderate tannins and a good streak of lifting acidity, re-sulting in a texture like crushed satin. Fruit-skin flavors linger on the medium-length close alongside accents of pepper and sweet spice. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Mullineux 2009 Syrah (Swartland). For-ward aromas of game and earthy spice notes are

upfront on the bouquet, with notes of mulled berries, red plum and fig providing a concentrated, fruity back-drop. Earthy tones continue to dominate the medium-weight mouth, as flavors of tree bark and baking spice flood the palate and linger long into the finish. Fine tan-nins lend a satiny, smooth texture to the mouthfeel. Ky-sela Père et Fils. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $33

90 Vins d’Orrance 2008 Cuvée Ameena Syr-ah (Western Cape). The 14 months spent in

oak lend this wine an earthy, sweet-spice-driven charac-ter that infuses the red cherry and currant aromas and flavors. The wood also contributes to the lush mouthfeel and smoky finish. But although it’s oaky, it’s not over-whelming, and the wine ultimately comes across as bal-anced and clean. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $39

89 Fairview 2009 Shiraz (Coastal Region). A pleasing melange of spicy aromas start the

nose of this wine off right: think licorice, black pepper and whole clove. Those spicy notes are framed against


a dense black-fruit core of blackberry, cherry, plum and currant. The texture is full but structured, like crushed velvet, and the finish evokes hints of leather, pepper and tobacco. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $17

89 Robertson Winery 2009 Number One Constitution Road Shiraz (Robertson).

This is a decadent and plush wine, with ripe-fruit notes of brambly raspberry and blueberry accented by hints of pepper, vanilla and sweet spice. A streak of juicy acid-ity lifts the palate, and soft tannins allow for easy drink-ing now. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $30

89 Robertson Winery 2008 Number One Constitution Road Shiraz (Robertson).

Ripe, smooth and satiny, this wine has all the right stuff for pleasurable drinking now. Earthy spice and co-coa-nib accents add depth to the dense raspberry and cherry fruit core, while the finish expresses a tree bark and whole peppercorn flavor that lingers. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $30

89 Saronsberg 2008 Provenance Shiraz (Coastal Region). Dark and somewhat

heady, this opens with dense aromas of mashed black-berry, black tea, bark and peppery spice. The palate is similarly dense and concentrated, although the medium tannins lend the wine a crushed-satin texture that keeps it from feeling too decadent. The finish is long, with a solid pepper streak. Wine Sources. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $22

89 Thelema 2008 Shiraz (Stellenbosch). Wild berry and forest notes immediately waft

from the glass, with additional aromas of mentholated red cherry, plum and cinnamon. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with a juicy red-fruit center that supports the accents of sweet smoke and pepper that carry through to the medium-length close. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

ARGENTINA

CHARDONNAY

87 Verum 2012 Chardonnay (Alto Valle del Río Negro). For Argentina, this is about as

fresh and clean as Chardonnay gets. The nose is pure but basic, with mineral and apple aromas. The palate feels good and correct, while flavors of banana, apple, melon and vanilla are solid but not overly powerful. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

83 Santa Julia 2012 Organica Made with Or-ganic Grapes Chardonnay (Mendoza).

This Chardonnay is slightly metallic and briny on the bouquet. It feels plump and chunky, with citrus and pineapple flavors coming in front of a quiet finish. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

82 Michel Torino 2012 Don David Reserve Chardonnay (Calchaqui Valley). Tropical

fruit aromas are the lead-in, but upon airing the wine’s pineapple and mango scents turn austere and prickly. The mouthfeel here is astringent and acidic, and the flavors are briny, even pickled. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

82 Tapiz 2011 Alta Collection Chardonnay (Mendoza). Overall this is a weak wine with

resiny aromas of varnish followed by woody flavors of banana and vanilla. The finish is more or less the same, only less potent. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

81 Salentein 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Juniper and onion aromas are

not inviting, and there’s little fruit to back them up. The mouthfeel is oily, while flavors of briny citrus lead to a pickled-tasting finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $20

SAUVIGNON BLANC

85 Chalten 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Neuquén). This is a clean, basic wine with

white-fruit aromas of peach and apple. The palate is well balanced, and there’s a good level of citrus flavor along with green herb accents. On the finish, it’s more tropical, with a hint of banana. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

83 Finca Sophenia 2012 Altosur Sauvignon Blanc (Tupungato). This is light on the nose,

where minerally lime scents are barely detectable. The mouthfeel is fresh but dilute, while flavors of lemon, green apple and tarragon end in simple fashion. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

83 Pascual Toso 2012 Estate Bottled Sau-vignon Blanc (Mendoza). Mild lemon and

apple aromas are compromised by a harsh, stalky ele-ment. The mouthfeel is basic and spritzy, while generic apple and green melon flavors end in tropical sweet-ness. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $12

81 Solo Contigo 2011 Premium Series Sau-vignon Blanc (Mendoza). With acrid match-

stick aromas and little else, this wine gets off to a rough start and never finds solid footing. The palate is chunky and grabby, while the flavors are burnt and stalky, with bitterness to the finish. Antares. —M.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $18

OTHER WHITE WINES

84 Argento 2011 Cool Climate Selection Pi-not Grigio (Mendoza). Aromas of match-

stick, tropical fruits and stalkiness are a bit challenging. In the mouth, things feel solid and fresh, while flavors of sweet pear, melon, vanilla and apricot settle on mildly bitter come finishing time. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Ricardo Santos 2012 Semillon (Men-doza). This blowsy wine is waxy on the bou-

quet, with aromas of nectarine, pineapple and vanilla. It sports a chunky mouthfeel and tropical flavors, primar-ily pineapple accented by vanilla. On the finish, things fall off to stalky. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

83 Bodega NQN 2011 Picada 15 White (Pa-tagonia). The bouquet on this blend of Char-

donnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir is stuck in neutral, while flavors of citrus and lemon bend towards sour. The finish is briny and tangy. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

83 DiamAndes 2011 de Uco Viognier (Uco Valley). Light lemon and melon aromas lead

the nose, but the wine slips in the mouth, becoming creamy and flabby in constitution, with only mild citrus, papaya and bitterness for flavors. Dourthe USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

83 Trapiche 2011 Reserve Pinot Grigio (Mendoza). This Grigio opens with mild lem-

on and apple aromas that transition into a flabby pal-ate and dull flavors of buttercup, banana and apple. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $10

81 Bodega Carmine Granata 2010 Sémillon (Mendoza). Stalky, waxy aromas get this sub-

par varietal white going in the wrong direction. In the mouth, it’s mushy, with creamy, briny, almost bitter fla-vors. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

ROSÉS

87 Andeluna 2012 1300 Malbec Rosé (Men-doza). With its hot pink hue and fresh straw-

berry and cherry aromas, this is pretty darn good rosé for Argentina, a country not known for this style of wine. In the mouth, it’s crisp, with red plum and cherry fla-vors that carry onto the finish. San Francisco Wine Ex-change. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Finca El Origen 2011 Malbec Rosé (Men-doza). Although this is almost red in color and

entering its twilight, it’s not bad for $8. Dusty berry aro-mas lead to a semifull palate with raspberry, cherry and plum flavors that end in chewy dryness. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $8

83 Mil Piedras 2011 Malbec Rosé (Uco Val-ley). This wine is rather stalky and pickled. The

nose deals burning haystack, while the palate is mild-ly drawing and astringent, with stalky, briny tasting red berry flavors. It’s briny on the finish as well. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Caligiore 2011 Pianissimo Made with Or-ganically Grown Grapes Malbec Rosé

(Mendoza). This is cloudy to the eye, with a mix of vinegar, briny plum and milk chocolate on the nose.

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The mouthfeel is blowsy, while the flavors are briny and pickled. Marquee Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

BONARDA

87 Nuna 2011 The Soul of Argentina Re-serve Bonarda (Mendoza). Opaque in col-

or, this Bonarda is a concentrated bruiser with chocolate and berry aromas guiding a thick, jammy bouquet. The palate is ripe, cushioned and compact, while flavors of grapy black fruits and herbs lead to a jammy finish that carries an animal fur quality. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Cruz Alta 2011 Reserve Bonarda (Men-doza). With hard, rubbery aromas and a lot of

black fruit notes, this wine registers as textbook Bonar-da. The palate is bouncy and full feeling, but not com-plex, while flavors of dark fruits, leather and herbs set up a crisp and drying finish. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Nieto Senetiner 2011 Reserva Bonarda (Mendoza). Dark berry aromas appear along-

side a strong whiff of mint and grass. The palate feels narrow and tannic, with little in the middle, while fla-vors of earthy berry vie for attention with seemingly out of place citric flavors. Winebow. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $16

MALBEC

94 Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see page 4. Editors’

Choice. abv: 15.2% Price: $44

93 Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2010 Mal-bec (Río Negro Valley). For full review see

page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $130

93 Riglos 2010 Gran Las Divas Vineyard Malbec (Tupungato). For full review see

page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $32

92 Lagarde 2010 Primeras Viñas Malbec (Mendoza). This old-vines Malbec is ripe to

the max as it teeters towards raisniny but pulls back with the help of graphite and mild herbal aromas. The palate is big and forward, with a slight acidic bite that keeps it fresher than some hefty Argentine Malbecs. As for fla-vors, look for a mix of oak, plum, blackberry, tomato and herbs in front of a complex finish. Drink now through 2016. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $49

91 Andeluna 2010 Altitud Malbec (Tupunga-to). For full review see page 6.

abv: 15.5% Price: $25

87 Zolo 2012 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec (Mendoza).

For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

86 Santa Julia 2012 [+] Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $10

86 Santa Julia 2012 Organica Malbec (Men-doza). With ripe yet oaky aromas, this is a basic

Malbec to enjoy with simple foods. The palate is juicy but comes with a buttery, creamy feel. As for flavors, look for buttery oak riding on top of modest, quick- hitting berry. On the finish, it’s oaky more than fruity. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2012 Lote 44 Malbec (Mendoza). Here’s a basic Malbec

with ripe plum aromas topped off by milk chocolate and vanilla notes. It’s hard but bold in the mouth, with de-cent acidity and a forced set of oaky, chocolaty, berry flavors. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 TintoNegro 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Fol-lowing up on a bouquet that’s lightly herbal and

lactic, the palate feels hard and tannic, with oak-based resin sticking out. Flavors of black pepper, licorice and oak push away the wine’s black-fruit component, leaving a minty finish that’s oak-dominant and mildly artificial tasting. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

89 Terrazas de Los Andes 2008 Single Vine-yard Los Aromos Cabernet Sauvignon

(Mendoza). This Cab is earthy and mossy smelling, with tomato, herb, coconut and raspberry aromas. It’s tannic on the palate, with oaky tasting cassis, herb and tobacco flavors. With a lot of body and power, this is a very good wine that suffers only from narrow, hard tan-nins. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $55

87 Ruca Malen 2008 Kinien Cabernet Sau-vignon (Mendoza). This rooty smelling wine

delivers herb, cola and cassis aromas in front of a wiry feeling palate that’s loaded to the brim with hard-biting tannins. Flavors of mossy, baked berry fruits come with an herbal streak, and the finish is hard due to those grat-ing tannins. For a five-year-old wine to feel this hard is telling. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

82 Alpamanta 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mendoza). The nose is minty, herbal

and strangely exotic, while the palate falls flat in deliver-ing strongly herbal, tomato-based flavors. William Har-rison Imports. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $29

MERLOT

90 Weinert 2006 Merlot (Mendoza). While this smells directly from the Old World, it’s ap-

pealing and unique in style for Argentina. For starters, it’s mature, bordering on old. Because of vital acidity, it’s in good shape, with stewed berry, tobacco, spice and chocolate flavors. On the finish, pepper and bitter cof-

fee notes enter the picture. Drink this one-of-a-kind Merlot now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Familia Schroeder 2010 Saurus Select Merlot (Patagonia). This is a friendly, fresh,

open Merlot, not a variety that Argentina is known for. Aromas of cassis and red plum lead to a mild, fresh-feeling palate with red-fruit flavors and a pinch of va-nilla. Beyond that, it’s not demanding and finishes well. Eco Valley. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

82 Telteca 2010 Roble Merlot (Mendoza). The nose deals a mix of exotic aromas along

with offputting sweat, compost and funky cheese. The palate is pasty feeling and tannic, with lactic flavors of oak, licorice and medicinal berry. On the finish, clove and spice notes dominate. Fleischer International Trad-ing, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

SYRAH

89 Trapiche 2010 Iscay Syrah-Viognier (Mendoza). Full berry aromas are fresh but

come with a lot of oak and spice. In the mouth, this Syr-ah (with 3% Viognier) is chewy and a bit syrupy, with minty, spicy flavors derived from loud oak. On the fin-ish, it dries out and turns warm-to-hot as it fades away. A joint-venture wine between Trapiche and Joey Tensley of California. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

87 Hacienda del Plata 2010 Zagal Syrah (Mendoza). This Syrah smells meaty and

roasted, with savory spice aromas and plenty of black fruit on the nose. It’s chewy and creamy feeling, with blueberry and blackberry flavors in front of a short fin-ish that’s abrupt but clean. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

86 Michel Torino 2011 Don David Reserve Syrah (Calchaquí Valley). The nose on this

Syrah is attractive as it doles out spicy, earthy berry fruit aromas that are typical for the Cafayate region of Argen-tina. In the mouth, however, the wine is hard and short, with oaky, herbal flavors of roasted fruit followed by green notes and raw oak on the finish. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

86 San Huberto 2010 Reserva Syrah (Argen-tina). This Syrah leads with standard berry and

chocolate aromas. The mouthfeel is largely fresh, and while there’s creamy oak as part of the flavor package, there’s also good berry character and mint. Jomada Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

RED BLENDS

92 O. Fournier 2006 Syrah-Cabernet Sau-vignon (Uco Valley). This small-production

blend of Syrah and Cabernet is ready to drink and show-ing all sorts of complexity and class. Mature oak aromas frame tobacco, cedar and mild fruit scents. It’s fine on


the palate, with raspberry and plum flavors mixed with coconut, vanilla and earth. Only 200 cases made; drink now through 2015. Tempranillo, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $85

91 Andeluna 2005 Pasionado Cuatro Cepas (Mendoza). This is an elegant wine that shows

that Argentinean reds can improve with time. Tobacco, clay dust and dry spice comprise the bouquet. It’s tight and well structured in the mouth, with chocolate, herb and baked berry flavors. A chocolaty aftertaste com-pletes the picture. Drink this blend of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc now through 2015. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50

91 Bodega Norton 2010 Privada (Mendo-za). Once again, this Malbec-Merlot-Caber-

net Sauvignon blend from Norton excels. The nose is a bit grapy and candied, but there’s depth and a level of intensity that bodes well for the future. The palate is deep and concentrated, with blackberry, prune, stewed plum, graphite and coffee flavors in front of a mellow, smooth finish. Drink now through 2016. T.G.I.C. Im-porters. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

90 Domingo Molina 2006 Blend Malbec-Merlot-Tannat (Salta). This black wine, de-

spite being almost seven years old, remains rich and balanced on the nose, where ripe aromas of raisin and earth offer a slight herbal, minty edge. The mouthfeel is 100% thick and jammy, while flavors of prune, baked blackberry and chocolate lead to a chewy finish. This blend of Malbec, Merlot and Tannat is a knife-and-fork wine to drink now. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Finca Flichman 2008 Expresiones Re-serve Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (Men-

doza). Earthy, complex aromas of tobacco, cedar, herbs, raspberry and currant are intriguing and high in quality. In the mouth, this blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon is a bit tannic, with ribald flavors of nutmeg, plum, blackberry and tobacco. For $15, it’s dy-namite in terms of intensity and really good in terms of flavors. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

90 Weinert 2007 Carrascal (Mendoza). Wein-ert holds its wines back longer than almost any

other Argentine winery, hence when you get a blend like this it’s mature and ready. This is maderized, with aromas of earth, citrus, tobacco and mushroom. The palate is tight and houses tobacco, mocha, citrus and dried raspberry flavors. If you like aged Rioja, this is for you. The blend is Malbec, Cabernet and Merlot. Broad-bent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

89 Antucura 2008 Calcura (Mendoza). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Mal-

bec is dry and spicy on the nose, with complexity and herbal leanings. The palate feels grabby and full, while the oaky flavor profile deals baked berry, earth, cin-

namon and chocolate notes. It finishes with spice and chocolate flavors. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20

88 Domaine Jean Bousquet 2011 Made with Organic Grapes Reserve Malbec-Syrah

(Mendoza). The nose on this 50-50 blend is piercing, with dark cherry, black plum and mild herbal aromas running the show. The mouthfeel is focused and fresh, and the flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum and chocolate soften and spread out on the finish as oaky vanilla and herbal echoes take over. Amj Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 DiamAndes 2011 Perlita Malbec-Syrah (Uco Valley). Big, bold aromas of black fruits,

dried cheese and vanilla signal a well-oaked, ripe wine. The palate feels good but buttery, and the flavor pro-file is equally divided between blackberry, vanilla and licorice. With airing, this turns more herbal. Dourthe USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

87 Tilia 2011 Malbec-Syrah (Mendoza). Mild herbal, spice, red plum and red bell pepper

scents are what you’ll find on the bouquet of this Mal-bec-Syrah blend. The palate is round, with good acidity maintaining balance. Berry flavors are tasty but generic, and there’s no shortage of oak and vanilla on the lasting finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Las Moras 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon-Shiraz (San Juan). Although the

bouquet is a touch scratchy, raspberry aromas are good. This feels a little wiry on the palate, with acidity poking through. Flavorwise, there’s a mix of generic blackberry and plum, while the finish is lively due to juicy acidity. Universal Wine Network. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

81 Casarena 2010 Reserva Sinergy (Mendo-za). The quality of Casarena’s wines range from

excellent to not great, with all points in between repre-sented. This Malbec-led blend is heavy and raisiny on the nose, then syrupy in the mouth, with flavors running straight to candied and flat. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

OTHER RED WINES

89 Viña Alicia 2007 Coleccion de Familia Nebbiolo (Luján de Cuyo). Argentine Neb-

biolo is a rarity, and for one to be this good is a blessing. Leather, dark berry, earth and citrus aromas are mellow and subdued, but the palate is full and forward, with baked berry, molasses and espresso flavors. This is tan-nic and chocolaty on the finish, with lasting sweetness. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

88 Michel Torino 2011 Don David Reserve Tannat (Calchaqui Valley). This varietal

Tannat from northern Argentina boasts ripe, rubbery aromas, lots of oak and pure blackberry power. It’s chunky in the mouth but balanced by proper acids, and the flavors of toasty, oaky dark fruits come across gen-

erous and black as night. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

CALIFORNIA

CHARDONNAY

93 Bien Nacido 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full

review see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $43

91 Domaine Chandon 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). A very particular Chardonnay that

shows the dual properties of ripe, delicious fruit and acidic, minerally earthiness. Flavors veer toward citrus and tropical fruits, while oak brings lovely notes of va-nilla and buttered toast. Great price for a Chard of this distinction and class. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

91 Keller Estate 2010 La Cruz Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Rich and

fancy in the popular style, showing lots of tropical and citrus fruit, honey, mineral, vanilla, lees and oak flavors, wrapped into a buttery, creamy texture. Brisk coastal acidity provides a pleasant tartness. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

91 Keller Estate 2010 Oro de Plata Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). Awesomely rich and

ripe in Meyer lemon tart, orange zest and golden mango flavors, with oak and lees nuances that make it complex and interesting. The wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation, which gives the acidity the bite of a fresh green apple. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $33

91 Von Holt 2011 Heintz Family Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Integrating

the buttered toast and caramel notes of new oak with the underlying wine, this is is a Chardonnay of classy California dimensions. Despite a cool vintage, the grapes achieved remarkable ripeness, with flavors sug-gesting oranges and spicy, creamy papayas, while bright acidity gives it all a wakeup call of zest. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

90 Kimmel 2010 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). From Kimmel’s cool Potter Valley

vineyards, this 2010 Chardonnay has a lot to offer— re-freshing lemon and grapefruit flavor, and a hint of or-ange peel amid its high-toned acidity. Lean and inviting with a richness on the finish, Kimmel is a name to watch in Mendocino Chardonnay. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 Raymond 2011 Reserve Selection Char-donnay (Napa Valley). A terrific Chardon-

nay at a great price. The ripe orange, pineapple, tropical fruit and vanilla-cream flavors are enriched with butter and oak. What’s best of all is the acidity. It’s so bright and zesty, it balances all the richness, making it worth repeated sips. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $20

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90 Truchard 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). Lots of new oak brings buttered toast flavors

to this Chardonnay. Sur lees aging adds notes of sour cream. The underlying fruit veers toward intensely fla-vored green apples and limes. Tasted in January, the components haven’t come together. Give it until the fall of 2013. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

89 Bishop’s Peak 2011 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). This is another fine Chardonnay from

Talley, a great Central Coast producer. This is the sec-ond label, and for the price, you’ll get a terrific Char-donnay that’s creamy and rich in oranges, kiwi fruits and golden mangoes, but bright in acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

89 Handley 2011 Whispering Oaks Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendocino County). Heady

and well made, Handley’s Whispering Oaks, a certified-organic vineyard near the Ukiah Valley gets more heat than the winery’s estate vines, giving this wine a fuller body and texture than its 2011 estate Chardonnay. With flavors of pear, apple and spice, it’s crisp yet rich with just the smallest ounce of a barrel imprint, a match for roast chicken with herbs. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

89 Hunnicutt 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley-Paso Robles). A rich, ripe Chardonnay,

made to appeal to the popular style. Shows tons of pine-apple, peach, green apple, buttered toast, cream and honey flavors, balanced with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

89 McIntyre Vineyards 2011 Estate Char-donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is

a very rich, elaborate Chardonnay, brimming with ripe tropical fruit, vanilla, buttered toast and butterscotch flavors. Vibrant acidity adds brightness and zest to all the richness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

88 D.R. Stephens 2011 Chardonnay (Ruth-erford). Though not much Chardonnay is

grown in Rutherford, this one’s pretty good with rich citrus and tropical fruit flavors accented with buttered toast. It’s a little soft and herbal, but feels festive. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

88 Grgich Hills 2010 Estate Grown Chardon-nay (Napa Valley). Shows the herbal quality

that often marks this winery’s Napa Chardonnay, with a tobacco and sage edge to the citrus fruit and Asian pear flavors. The structure is balanced with brisk acidity and even some oaky wood tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

88 Handley 2011 Estate Vineyard Chardon-nay (Anderson Valley). An extreme wine

from an extremely cool site in an extremely cool vin-tage, Handley’s estate Chardonnay is intriguingly tart, crisp and low in alcohol, yet textured and unique. Sip it on its own or pair with buttery shellfish or goat cheese on crackers. —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $25

88 Isabel Mondavi 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). Good price for a Chardonnay

this sophisticated. It shows ripe tropical and citrus fruit, honey and oak flavors, with delicate acidity. Perfect with crab and buttered sourdough bread. Drink it now, but not too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

88 Rancho Sisquoc 2010 Flood Family Vine-yards Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Coun-

ty). Great price for a Chardonnay this good. This dis-plays a creamy, buttery framework, with vanilla, lime, peach and mango flavors, highlighted by zesty acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Beringer 2011 Private Reserve Chardon-nay (Napa Valley). A big, strong Chardonnay

with prominent buttered toast, buttered popcorn, va-nilla, and pineapple-orange jam flavors. Elaborate and flashy, but obviously made to appeal to the modern style. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $37

87 Boekenoogen 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Flatters the pal-

ate with bold, rich buttered toast, pineapple-tangerine jam and spicy oak flavors, brightened with crisp Mon-terey acidity. It’s not subtle, but powerful in the modern Chardonnay style. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

87 Center of Effort 2010 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Lots of toasty new oak on this potent

California Chardonnay. Malolactic fermentation and sur lees aging give it a buttered popcorn creaminess, while the underlying fruit is vibrant in acidity, suggest-ing candied apricots and tangerines. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

87 Kunde 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (So-noma Valley). Oak dominates this wine, with

buttered toast and caramel flavors riding high over or-ange, green apple and mango notes. The acidity is mouthwatering, adding vibrance to sheer California power. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

87 Line 39 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Meadowcroft 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). A good, restaurant-style Chardonnay

at a fair price for the quality. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, with pleasant flavors of pineapple, kumquat, lime, va-nilla and buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

87 Orfila 2011 Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley). Rich in oak barrel and caramel vanilla,

this presents plenty of pear and lemon, even lemon me-ringue flavors. Ample acidity adds brightness, making this a good match for mussels or roast chicken. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $25

87 Stuhlmuller Vineyards 2011 Estate Char-donnay (Alexander Valley). An easy Char-

donnay to drink now, with toasty oak, butter, tangerine, apricot and yeasty flavors. Shows brilliant acidity, which gives it a clean bite. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

87 Stuhlmuller Vineyards 2010 Estate Re-serve Chardonnay (Alexander Valley).

There are tons of ripe tangerine, apricot and lime fla-vors in this flashy Chardonnay. It’s rich in vanilla and buttered, toasty oak, with brisk acidity. Easy to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

86 Ballard Lane 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). This Chard is a bit heavy and oaky,

with buttered toast, orange, pear and spicy fruit punch flavors. It’s ripe with juicy fruit flavors but balanced by crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Kunde 2011 Wildwood Vineyard Char-donnay (Sonoma Valley). This is appealing

for its richness, but it’s heavily oaked with buttered toast and butterscotch flavors that overwhelm the underly-ing fruit. Too bad, because it’s a nice Chardonnay with bright pineapple and orange flavors supported by fine acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $27

86 Magistrate 2011 Limited Production Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County).

There’s good Santa Barbara character in this Chardon-nay, with brisk acidity and minerality girding the tropi-cal fruit and peach flavors. It’s a little thin, but elegantly structured. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Merryvale 2010 Silhouette Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This is a good wine, but it re-

lies too much on oak, overwhelming it with buttered toast and caramel. The result is a rich but unbalanced wine, with underlying orange, pineapple and peach fla-vors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

86 Russian River 2010 Chardonnay (So-noma Coast). This wine plays it right down

the middle, with pleasant flavors of buttered toast, or-ange jam and vanilla. With balancing acidity, it gets the Chardonnay job done in a good, straightforward way. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $26

86 Windsor Oaks 2011 Reserve Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). Fruity and de-

licious with straightforward candied pineapple and or-ange flavors. Oak adds notes of buttered toast, while crisp acidity provides balance. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

85 C. Mondavi & Family 2011 The Divin-ing Rod Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High-

lands). A great everyday Chardonnay with buttered toast, buttered popcorn, pineapple-orange jam and va-nilla flavors. Delicate Santa Lucia acidity provides crisp-ness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20


85 Courtney Benham 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). This is good week-

day Chardonnay with buttered toast, orange jam and vanilla flavors. The acidity gives it a clean, vibrant fin-ish. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $11

85 Courtney Benham 2011 Reserve Char-donnay (Napa Valley). The acidity really

brings this Chard together, adding a racy edge to but-tered toast, popcorn and orange marmalade flavors. Straightforward, but a good example of the modern California style. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

85 Frog’s Leap 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley). Ripe and generously oaked on the palate,

this Chardonnay has flavors of pineapple jam, buttered toast and buttered popcorn. It’s brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $26

85 Godspeed 2010 Chardonnay (Mount Veeder). This is a bold, densely structured

wine with vanilla-cream, orange-soda and pineapple-custard flavors. There’s good acidity, but it appeals to the modern style with it’s ripe, straightforward feel. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

85 Gregory Graham 2011 Sangiacomo Vine-yard Chardonnay (Carneros). Buttered

toast, buttered popcorn, butterscotch and vanilla flavors are dominant, but accent ripe, jammy pear and peach flavors on this Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

85 Newton 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Coun-ty). A good, straightforward Chardonnay with

ripe, tropical fruit and pear flavors. It’s creamy and oaky, but brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $25

85 Ten Acre 2010 Green Acre Hills Sangia-como Vineyards Chardonnay (Sonoma

Coast). This is a pretty, easy-going Chardonnay with fine coastal acidity providing a clean counterpoint to the heavy oak. The flavors are of buttered toast, buttered popcorn and orange jam. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

85 Wild Horse 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Dry and crisp with creamy vanilla fla-

vors accented with tropical fruits and pears, this is a straightforward wine for everyday enjoyment. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

84 Artesa 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). Good and dry, this is a simple wine with scoury

Carneros acidity highlighting Asian pear, lime and but-tered toast flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

84 Courtney Benham 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This will satisfy fans of buttery

popcorn and toast in their Chardonnay. Canned apricot

and orange fruit flavors are brightened with crisp acid-ity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

84 Kunde 2011 Kinneybrook Vineyard Char-donnay (Sonoma County). A rich, ripe

Chardonnay, with tons of buttered toast, tangerine jam and vanilla flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

84 Publix 2010 Premium Limited Edition Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Oaky

and simple, with buttered toast, buttered popcorn and pineapple juice flavors. Gets the Chardonnay basics done without complications. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $20

84 RouteStock Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). Oaky with candied pineapple, or-

ange and buttered toast flavors. The acidity is bright and delicate. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $16

84 Thomas Henry 2010 Chardonnay (Napa County). Made in an easy-going style, this

Chardonnay has ripe, forward flavors of orange jam, buttered toast and vanilla flavors. Fine acidity provides balance. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

83 Franciscan 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley). Soft and simple, with candied pear, or-

ange, vanilla, honey and buttered toast flavors that fin-ish with a sugary feel. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

82 Caraccioli 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Lu-cia Highlands). This is a disjointed Chard,

with sweet-and-sour pineapple flavors and some funky, earthy notes. Lots of acidity, but lacks finesse. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $29

82 Carmenet 2011 Chardonnay (California). This is a simple, one-dimensional Chardonnay.

It’s dry in style with thin citrus and apricot flavors and just a hint of oak. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

82 Magness 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley). A simple wine, made for modern tastes,

with sugary orange, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

92 Handley 2011 Helluva Vineyard Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). Crisp and very flo-

ral, this is a beautiful showcase of Anderson Valley’s cool climate and commitment to Alsatian varieties. There’s a great depth of flavor here—fig, grapefruit, lime and or-ange peel—not to mention tremendous minerality. This is a wine that can be sipped all day long or enjoyed with fish, poultry or an onion tart. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Terlato 2011 Pinot Grigio (Russian River Valley). Ripe and forward with Meyer lemon,

lime, green apple and honeysuckle flavors. The finish is off dry and zesty in acidity. What an easy wine to drink with Asian, Ethiopian, Indian or Mexican fare, or by it-self as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

85 Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Pinot Grigio (California). A good Pinot Grigio if

you’re looking for something off-dry. It’s crisp in acidity, with sugary orange, pear and lime flavors. Easy to drink with Vietnamese, Thai, Ethiopian, Indian or other such ethnic fare based on chicken or lamb. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

85 Keller Estate 2010 La Cruz Vineyard Pi-not Gris (Sonoma Coast). Brisk, citrusy

acidity is the best thing about this wine, giving it a clean, tingly mouthfeel. The palate offers jammy flavors of apricot and mango that finish on a candied note. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $30

SAUVIGNON BLANC

88 Kunde 2011 Block 4SB20 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley). Sugary orange-jam

and vanilla flavors are brightened by crisp acidity that gives this wine a clean finish. Lightly-oaked, it’s easy to drink on its own, or with appetizers such as tempura, bacon-wrapped shrimp or toast with goat cheese and roasted peppers. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

88 Malk 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). Bold with ripe citrus, white currant, apri-

cot, vanilla and cream flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is unusually full bodied. It’s not subtle, but intensely rich. Drink it now—not too cold—and watch how it changes in the glass. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $29

88 Sierra Starr 2011 Solstice Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foothills). Stainless-steel

fermented, this Sierra Foothills’ Sauvignon Blanc is creamy, with great texture, and lilting layers of light peach, kiwi, lime and melon. Delicious—enjoy it with seafood or goat cheese on crackers. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Kenefick Ranch 2011 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga). A little on the candied

side, with pineapple and lemon-tart flavors accented with buttered toast notes from oak. The acidity is excel-lent. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $24

87 Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Fumé Blanc (Livermore Valley). Aged entirely in

new French oak, the opening aroma reflects woody notes before revealing waves of rich, thick coconut and caramel. Full bodied in style, it finishes with a hint of sweetness. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

86 Epilogue 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor-nia). Abundant acidity gives this wine a tart,

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puckery feel, balanced by a range of fruit flavors—lem-ons and limes through pears and mangoes. It’s dry in style, making it an ideal companion for cocktail snacks, like goat cheese or prosciutto-wrapped melon. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $14

86 Genius Wines 2011 Ritchie Vineyard Re-quiem Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River

Valley). Marked by ripe orange, apricot and mango fla-vors, this Sauvignon Blanc is rescued by brisk acidity that lends it a clean finish. A touch of oak adds hints of vanilla and buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

85 Rancho Sisquoc 2011 Flood Family Vine-yards Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Barbara

County). A simple, straightforward Sauvignon Blanc this is ripe with peach, pear, Meyer lemon and lime fla-vors, but brightened and cleansed by brisk acidity. The price is fair for what you get. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $14

84 Conspire 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruther-ford). While there’s no oak here, there’s a heft

and weight to the mouthfeel of this wine. The flavors veer toward orange and apricot jam. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

84 Lange Twins 2011 Musqué Clone Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Lodi). While there’s a New Zea-

land-style twist of grass and gooseberry, this Sauvignon Blanc is otherwise woody and tropical with pineapple juice flavor and quivering lemony acidity. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

84 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2011 Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). Made in a sugary

style that gives it popular appeal. The flavors are of apri-cot, orange-lime jam, vanilla and white currants, bright-ened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

WHITE BLENDS

90 B Cellars 2011 Blend 23 (Napa Valley). A huge wine that’s beautiful to drink now. Offers

blasts of orange and apricot jam, ripe tropical fruit, va-nilla, buttered toast, honey and spice flavors, yet never loses control. The blend is a creative one of Chardon-nay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, and while it could be clumsy in lesser hands, winemaker Kirk Venge dis-plays his deft touch. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $37

90 Vellum 2011 White Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Napa Valley). Low in alcohol by

California standards, but offers plenty of flavor by way of grapefruit, Meyer lemon and fresh, green grass. Rich notes of ripe orange, lees and oak are balanced by brisk, bright acidity. A very nice expression of a white Bor-deaux-style wine. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $38

88 Kenefick Ranch 2011 Pickett Road White (Calistoga). A blend of Marsanne, Grenache

Blanc and Viognier, this is a ripe wine that’s rich in pine-apples, oranges and mangoes, with brisk acidity and

plenty of toasty oak. Drinks well now, particularly with Vietnamese and Chinese fare. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

87 Andrew Murray 2011 This is Eleven Un-plugged (Santa Ynez Valley). A blend of

Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine exempli-fies the finesse of a fine Santa Ynez white wine. It’s ripe with orange and peach jam flavors, but there’s no oak, so what you get is pure fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

82 Cline 2010 Oakley Eighty-Two (Califor-nia). Soft and simple with sugary peach, citrus

and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $10

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Sean Thackrey 2011 Noble Vineyard Lyra Viognier (Knights Valley). Fine acidity

and some dusty tannins give structure to this Viognier, grown in a mountain benchland between the Russian River and Napa Valleys. It’s ripe with orange, tropical fruit and kiwi flavors and accented with toasty oak in-fuences, yet finishes dry and clean. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $36

90 Handley 2011 Gewürztraminer (Ander-son Valley). A wisp of a wine, bright in lime,

nutmeg and honeysuckle, with balanced acidity and mouthwatering texture and concentration. Handley’s Gewürztraminer is always the right call when Thai or Chinese is on the menu. A nice introduction or re-intro-duction to Anderson Valley whites. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Harney Lane 2011 Albariño (Lodi). One of Harney Lane’s signature whites, this wine is

clean, crisp and inviting. Tight acidity and an almost sa-vory air gives it austerity. With a backbone of lemon and lime, it’ll pair delightfully with oysters, oysters and more oysters, preferably drizzled in vinegar and lemon, with a plate of chorizo not far behind. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $19

88 McFadden Vineyard 2011 Gewürztra-miner (Potter Valley). Pungent of herbs

and grass, wet stone and gravel, this aromatic white is balanced with crisp acidity, mouthfilling texture and a fruity finish. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

87 Kessler-Haak 2011 Dry Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). Like the label says, this Riesling is dry,

but the high alcohol level gives it a glycerine impression of sweetness. The wine also shows Riesling’s brisk acid-ity, while the flavors are forward in lemon and lime jam, honeysuckle and Riesling’s telltale petrol. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

SPARKLING WINES

89 McFadden Vineyard 2009 Reserve Cu-vée Brut Made With Organically Grown

Grapes (Potter Valley). Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at about half each, this Reserve, which spent

18 months on the lees, is sophisticated, with great depth and complexity, and rich, dense swirls of golden honey and apple. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

88 Caraccioli 2007 Brut Rosé (Santa Lu-cia Highlands). This bubbly has a slightly

pink tinge of Pinot Noir, adding hints of strawberries to Chardonnay’s lime. It’s a very dry, stark wine, with bright, mouthwatering acidity. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $57

88 McIntyre Vineyards NV L’Homme Qui Ris (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a brut-style

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend that’s easy to like for its upfront citrus, pear, vanilla, buttered toast and yeasty flavors. The bubbles are a little scoury. —S.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $29

87 Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs (Carne-ros). A rich, fruity bubbly for drinking now. It’s

a little coarse and scoury, but delicious, with candied lime, strawberry and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.2% Price: $22

87 Goat Bubbles 2010 Sierra Madre Vine-yard Blanc de Blancs (Santa Maria Val-

ley). Made from Chardonnay, this is a dry sparkling wine, pert in acidity, with rich flavors of yeast and citrus fruits. It’s a bit scoury in the mouth, with edgy bubbles. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $38

87 Goat Bubbles 2010 Sierra Madre Vine-yard Cremant (Santa Maria Valley). A lit-

tle scoury, but elegant, with rich flavors of yeast, toast, pears, limes, Meyer lemons and honey. It’s made from Pinot Blanc. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $34

87 Goat Bubbles 2010 Solomon Hills Vine-yard Rosé (Santa Maria Valley). Pinot Noir

dominates this bubbly, giving it strawberry, raspberry and honey flavors. Alongside the yeast and toasty notes, it’s crisp and clean in acidity. The bubbles are a little aggressive and lacking finesse, but it’s a fine sparkler to drink now. —S.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $34

87 McFadden Vineyard NV Cuvée Brut (Pot-ter Valley). A blend of half Chardonnay, half

Pinot Noir, the organically-certified grapes for this spar-kler hail from the 2010 vintage. This is a light, barely aromatic wine that’s refreshingly high in acidity. It tastes remarkably like a Gravenstein apple, but could also be mistaken for a delicious hard cider. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

ROSÉ

87 Castello di Amorosa 2011 Gioia Rosato d’ Sangiovese (California). A little dark and

heavy for a rosé, with jammy flavors of raspberries, va-nilla and brown sugar. It sure is tasty, however, especial-ly with prosciutto, melons and figs. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $24


PINOT NOIR

94 Coup de Foudre 2010 Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Insanely delicious, this is sex in

a bottle. Velvety, silky tannins and vibrant acidity carry voluptuous flavors of raspberry tart, mocha, cola, lico-rice, and sandalwood that go on and on into a long, spicy finish. Should hold in the bottle for quite a while, but you really want to drink this lovely, tiny production Pi-not before 2015 to enjoy its freshness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

94 De Loach 2010 Maboroshi Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). Dazzling

with silky richness, this wine is so delicious, you can’t help but to fall in love with it. Tantalizing with waves of raspberry and cherry pie, ripe persimmon, mocha, red licorice and smoky oak flavors that finish long and satisfying. The balance of acids and tannins is just about perfect. Calling all steaks for the perfect pairing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

94 Mira 2010 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Carneros). For full review see page 4. Edi-

tors’ Choice.abv: 13.5% Price: $42

93 Londer 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A rich, earthy Pinot

bright in red and blue fruit and an herbal note in the distance, Londer’s estate-grown Pinot is a marriage of site, style and vintage. Lightly textured with soft edges and complexity to spare, it should pair well with bacon and goat cheese quiche. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

93 Wild Horse 2009 Cheval Sauvage Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Expensive, yes,

but a very fine Pinot that shows the elegance of its Santa Barbara origins. Dry and crisp in acidity, it’s extraordi-narily deep in raspberry, cherry and currant fruit, with interesting notes of sautéed beef, cola, vanilla, baking spices and sandalwood. Drink now–2015 to enjoy its fruitiness. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

92 Armanino Family Cellars 2011 The Ring-neck Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A distin-

guished Pinot Noir that shows its coastal origins in brisk tannins and citrusy acidity. Beneath the astringency and tartness are impressive cherry, currant, cola, sweet to-bacco and sandalwood flavors that finish with great complexity and style. Certainly seems like a wine for the cellar. Your window of drinkability is 2015–2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $55

92 Armanino Family Cellars 2011 The White-wing Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).

Lots of ripe, spicy complexity in this fine example of a Russian River Pinot Noir. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, with pomegranate, cola, black cherry, mushroom and sandalwood flavors that are deep and long in the finish. Shows real class, and should develop in the bottle for 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55

92 Au Bon Climat 2009 Historic Vineyards Collection Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This wine is pale in color, and although only three-plus-years-old, seems delicate and almost fragile in the way of an older wine. Complex with notes of mushrooms, cola, sour cherry candy and cranberries, the palate is surprisingly powerful and in-sistent. Crisp with acidity, it’s just lovely now, but should develop additional bottle complexity for 5–6 more years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

92 Chronicle 2010 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Cerise Vine-

yard Pinot is rich and bright and as delicious as a cherry tart. Silky and substantial, the finish has a pleasant herb-al undertone that almost delves into leather. A great food-pairing wine, enjoy it with pork tenderloin or ba-con-wrapped figs or dates. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $60

92 De Loach 2010 OFS Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is an absolutely lovely Pinot

Noir that’s softly refined and balanced, yet so complex. It’s silky and dry, with waves of raspberries and cher-ries, red currants, mocha, red licorice and sautéed wild mushrooms. Drink now–2015 for fresh appeal. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 De Loach 2010 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). This wine

is so silky, it glides over the palate like a cool stream. Then the flavors kick in—fabulously rich in raspberry and cherry jam, vanilla and spicy sandalwood, bright-ened by crisp acidity. The verdict: A beautiful Pinot Noir, lush and fine, for drinking over the next four years, especially with something that includes mush-rooms. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $45

92 Masút 2011 Block 11 Pinot Noir (Men-docino County). A very earthy Pinot Noir

with tinges of mushroom and leather. This is a fine, sip-ping wine that’s concentrated and smooth. A perfect companion to rustic foods, like pork tenderloin or richly sauced pulled-pork sandwiches. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

92 Merryvale 2010 Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5.

abv: 13.5% Price: $35

92 Pahlmeyer 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Right off the bat, this Pinot impresses

for sheer depth of fruity flavor. It’s rich and showy with plums and cherries, spicy notes of tobacco and pine, and toasty, new oak. The tannin-acid structure is impecca-bly balanced. Delicious to drink now, but should also mature beautifully. A majority of the grapes come from the winery’s Wayfarer Vineyard, in the new Fort Ross-Seaview appellation. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $75

92 Reuling 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Joseph Swan and Araujo alum Matt Taylor

made this wine with grapes from outside of Forestville, in the cooler southwestern part of the valley. It’s a sump-

tuous Pinot Noir with a depth of raspberry, cherry, cola and mocha flavors, and earthier notes of mushrooms and oak for added complexity. Fine acidity and smooth tannins make it great to drink now and over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $70

92 Ryan Cochrane 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.5% Price: $38

92 Sean Thackrey 2009 Devil’s Gulch Ranch Andromeda Pinot Noir (Marin County). So

delicately structured, yet so insistently rich, this wine’s texture is pure silk. Tart and dry on the palate, it’s re-markably complex with sweet-and-spicy, brown-sugared raspberry and cherry flavors that give total satisfaction. No reason to age this beauty, just enjoy it now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

92 Sinor-LaVallee 2010 Aubaine Vineyards Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). Hits

the ground running with wonderful flavors of raspber-ries, cherries, red licorice and toasty oak, anchored by coffee and mushroom notes. The acidity is mouthwater-ing, and the texture silky and clean. Should easily devel-op over the next six years, but it’s delicious now as well. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Sinor-LaVallee 2010 Talley-Rincon Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley).

This Pinot is so fabulous, it’s easy to fall in love with. It comes as no surprise that this wine hails from the wonderful Talley-Rincon Vineyard. Light and silky, it’s bright in citrusy acids. Dry on the palate, but with juicy raspberry and cherry flavors, and hints of mineral, spice and smoky oak for complexity. What a nice wine for drinking now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Truchard 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Quite notable for its balance, this lovely Pinot

shows a fine tension of acidity, tannins, oak and fruit. The overall effect is delightful, with a silky texture hous-ing raspberry, cola, mushroom and sandalwood flavors. Good to drink now, but will easily develop over the next decade or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

91 De Loach 2010 Thornton Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). High alcohol is the

price you pay for the exceptional ripeness of this rich, lush Pinot Noir. It’s so forward in cherry, red currant, cola and mocha flavors, but finishes totally dry. Great acidity brings a zesty balance to this deliciously drink-able Pinot. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $45

91 Fulcrum 2010 Londer Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A pretty Pinot, earthy and

complex, that’s perfumed with strawberry jam, violets and candied orange. It’s delicate in personality, yet re-tains plenty of heft and backbone on the palate. Aromat-ically memorable, pair it with spiced Moroccan lamb in cardamom and cinnamon spices. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $54

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91 Kastania 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Despite some

very powerful fruit, this Pinot Noir shows remarkable restraint and a delicate texture. The raspberries, pome-granates and persimmons flavors are delicious ripe, yet the wine maintains a silky, refined dryness, and is bal-anced by fine acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

91 Kastania 2008 Proprietor’s Reserve Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Very rich and ripe

with fruit, with layers of raspberry jam, pomegranate, Dr. Pepper and toasty new oak. The tannins are smooth and the acidity balanced. Tasty now, and should age well for 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

91 Londer 2010 Ferrington Vineyards Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). From a great An-

derson Valley vineyard comes Londer’s 2010 vintage—lush and satisfying in myriad ways. It opens with deli-cate rose petal and bright, blueberry fruit flavors, ac-cented by a light, soft texture that builds weight on the finish. Pair with duck, pork or goat cheese salads. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $48

91 Londer 2010 Paraboll Pinot Noir (Ander-son Valley). Still a very young wine, Londer’s

Paraboll is leathery and herbal, marked by swirls of bright cranberry and rhubarb flavor. With a full, silky mouthfeel and long finish, it’s one of the best of their 2010s to seek out. This should gain complexity with a few years more of age. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

91 Masút 2011 Block 1 Pinot Noir (Mendoci-no County). Opening with floral aromas and a

nuanced texture, Block 1 has bright flavors of raspberry and cherry and is pleasing and silky all around. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

91 Masút 2011 Block 7 Pinot Noir (Men-docino County). This Pinot Noir is earthy

but fruity with Bing cherry and a long-lasting raspberry-liqueur note on the finish. Rich and deep with plenty of acidity, it’ll pair expertly with pork, chicken and any-thing wrapped in bacon. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

90 Black Kite 2010 Soberanes Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a

big Pinot Noir that’s dark, heavy and rich. It tastes like a confection with raspberry and cherry-pie filling, with hints of currants, roasted almonds, milk chocolate and anise. While it’s in-your-face now, it should mellow over the next six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $55

90 Caraccioli 2009 Limited Production Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Brisk acids

and firm tannins give this wine a solid structure, but it maintains the silky mouthfeel that makes Pinot Noir so sensual. It’s big in flavor, in the way of the Santa Lucia Highlands, offering waves of raspberry and cherry jam and soft Dr. Pepper flavor. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $47

90 Center of Effort 2010 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.7% Price: $40

90 De Loach 2010 Pennachio Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is one of

the Russian River Valley’s bigger, riper Pinots. The rich raspberry and cherry flavors are reminscent of a dessert pastry, yet it’s dry, silky and bright in acidity. Gains in the glass as it breathes, so give it a brief decant and drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Domaine Chandon 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A festive, elegant Pinot for drink-

ing now with fine fare, such as lamb, steak, salmon or tuna. It’s crisp, silky and dry, yet there’s a core of ripe raspberry and cherry essence enriched with toasty oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Kessler-Haak 2010 Kessler-Haak Vine-yard Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Sta.

Rita Hills). Give this dry, elegant Pinot a couple of years to let all the parts knit together. Right now, the oak stands out, and the acidity seems out of balance with the rich raspberry and persimmon fruit. It’s a remarkably complex wine, however, and should be even better by 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

90 Masút 2011 Block 13 Pinot Noir (Men-docino County). This is a uniquely layered

Pinot with concentrated dark-cherry liqueur flavor wrapped in notes of mushroom and dirt. The finish is bright and long-lasting. This one calls for chanterelles sautéed with plenty of olive oil and bacon bits. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

90 Pence Ranch 2010 Westslope Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). This is from the

winery’s estate vineyard in the eastern part of the Santa Rita Hills. The wine is dry and fairly tannic, with a rich concentration of raspberries, currants and mushrooms. It’s young now, with the acidity and oak needing 6–7 years to meld together. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Russian River 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review

see page 9. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Sandler 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A big, rich, fruity,

oaky Pinot Noir, offering waves of raspberry and cherry pie, currant, cola, baking spice and sandalwood flavors. Tastes delicious ripe, but finishes dry in a bracing swirl of acids and tannins. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

90 Sinor-LaVallee 2011 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). Good price for a Pinot Noir

this elegant and delicious. It’s dry and firm, with zesty acidity and some furry tannins. Flavors of raspberries, cola and buttered cinnamon toast lead to a long, spicy finish. Decant it an hour or two before drinking. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Windsor Oaks 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is still so

young and immature with fresh, jammy, berry flavors, spice and juicy acidity. Hold the wine for a year or three to allow it to settle and mature. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

90 Windsor Oaks 2009 4 Dijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Shows lots of

those rich, fruity Dijon flavors, with a burst of raspber-ry jam, persimmon, cinnamon, vanilla, baking spice and toast flavors. Silky and delicious, it’s fun to drink now with upscale fare. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Dierberg 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma-ria Valley). Shows the dryness, tannins and

crushed brown spices of a classic Santa Maria Pinot. It’s a bit strong and hard to appreciate now, but there’s a good core of black and red stone fruits and berries that will emerge with cellaring. Try after 2015. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

89 Hawley 2010 Estines Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a very big,

rich, extracted Pinot. While it’s undeniably delicious, it’s so stuffed with cherry-pie filling, black raspberry, mo-cha and cola flavors, it lacks subtlety, especially at this price. Give it a good, long decant and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

89 Londer 2010 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val-ley). Less complex than some of Londer’s sin-

gle-vineyard designates, this is a great value Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. It tastes of dark raspberry liqueur with a woody overtone, and its presence and mouth-feel are sizable enough to stand up to a variety of earthy foods. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

89 Masút 2011 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). With touches of earth

and integrated dark cherry flavor, this estate Pinot, a larger production than the winery’s Block series, has pronounced oak that highlights this wine’s herbal notes. Finishes quite long. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

89 Von Holt 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Give this

immature Pinot 3–5 years in the cellar to mellow. At just a year and a half, it’s all fresh and raspberry jam-like, with brisk acidity that gives it a bite of cranberry tartness. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

89 Windsor Oaks 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This Pinot could certainly with-

stand a few years of aging, but there’s really no reason to cellar it. It’s all about rich, ripe, flamboyant fruit in the way of cherries, persimmons and raspberries. For all the forward fruitiness, the wine finishes dry and firm in acids and tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

88 Armanino Family Cellars 2011 The Pin-tail Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). Exceptionally

ripe and forward with blackberry, blueberry and cherry


jam flavors, this wine is accented with hints of savory spice and a smoky jacket of oak. It’s a good wine, flashy and succulent, yet a little soft and hot in alcohol. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $55

88 Kessler-Haak 2010 Kessler-Haak Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The abun-

dance of lime acidity in this dry Pinot really gets the mouth watering. The mouthfeel is silky, while the fla-vors of cherries and persimmons are ripe and reward-ing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

88 Kessler-Haak 2010 Kessler-Haak Vine-yard Clone 2A Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).

There’s a real bite of lime juice that brightens the ripe raspberry and persimmon flavors on this Pinot Noir. Pair the wine with rich meats and cheeses for balance. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

88 Martin Ray 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Barba-ra County). This winery’s Santa Barbara bot-

tling has established a track record as a fine, elegant Pi-not Noir at a fair price. It’s not one you need to age, but it shows a clean, pure approach, with a silky mouthfeel and classic Pinot flavors of persimmon, cola and mush-rooms. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

88 Martin Ray 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv-er Valley). An earthy, mushroomy Pinot, fairly

simple, but providing plenty of fine varietal pleasure. It’s dry and oaky, with raspberry-pie filling, teriyaki beef, va-nilla and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

88 McIntyre Vineyards 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). There’s tons

of rich raspberry and cherry fruit in this Pinot, as well as a hit of new oak. It’s all brightened by a squirt of tart, citrusy acidity. Give it some decanting and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

88 Pence Ranch 2010 Uplands Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). This darkly col-

ored, tannic, young wine boasts lots of rich black cherry, currant, cola, pie-spice and sandalwood flavors. It also has a rich mushroomy streak. A bit angular and jagged now, give it 5–6 years in the cellar and see what it does. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Peter Cellars 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). Carneros shows its hand in the

brisk acidity, surprisingly light body and herbal notes of this Pinot Noir. It feels delicate in structure and finishes dry, with a hint of raspberry cookie richness. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $27

88 Seagrape 2010 Jump Up Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). With juicy acidity and tart flavors of

cranberries and sour-cherry candy, this is a Pinot Noir to drink now. It’s dry and a little austere, but rich beef and lamb dishes will coax out the fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Ten Acre 2010 Stephens Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a

very rich and extracted Pinot, with explosive raspberry and cherry pie, licorice, spice and sandalwood flavors. The richness is reined in by brisk acidity and a jacket of scoury tannins. Drink by 2015 for freshness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Tondré 2010 Tondré Grapefield Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a big,

extracted wine, voluptuous with cherry, plum, Dr. Pep-per, pomegranate and oak flavors. It has Pinot’s silky tex-ture and the delightfully crisp acidity typical to this cen-tral part of Monterey County. You might want to cellar it for 3–4 years to see if it can mellow out. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

88 WesMar 2009 Hellenthal Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A soft, ripe style of

Pinot Noir showing cherry, raspberry and brown sugar flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. Drink this fruity young wine now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $50

87 Boekenoogen 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lots of rich cherry

jam, cola, cranberry and mushroom flavors in this dry, tart Pinot Noir. It’s a bit brusque in texture, but the spic-iness gives it a savory finish. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

87 Gregory Graham 2009 Sangiacomo Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). It’s all

about flashy fruit in this ripe Pinot Noir. Enormously concentrated with raspberry, date and cherry flavors and hints of spicy bacon and raisins. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

87 Kastania 2009 Jaden & Keira’s Cuvée Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine is a bit

direct in cherry and raspberry candy flavor, but the tex-ture offers plenty of Pinot Noir pleasure. It’s silky and delicate, with a drink-me-now appeal. The acidity gives the fruit a mouthwatering edge of citrus. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

87 Kastania 2008 Jaden & Keira’s Cuvée Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s plenty of

ripe raspberry and cherry jam flavor on this wine, high-lighted with interesting cola, beef jerky, vanilla and toast notes. Dry and silky on the palate, it’s a pretty wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

87 Meadowcroft 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This Pinot Noir is dry with brisk acid-

ity typical to the Sonoma Coast, with well-developed flavors of sour cherry candy and cranberry. Hints of oak and toast add complexity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $34

87 Pence Ranch 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). A nice, brisk Pinot

Noir to drink now. Shows red currant, cola, crispy ba-con and spice flavors wrapped up with smooth tannins and finished with spicy oak. The vineyard is in the Santa Rita Hills, although it doesn’t say so on the label. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Thomas Henry 2011 Pinot Noir (Carne-ros). Much improved over past vintages now

that the winery is sourcing from the Carneros district. This wine is dry, silky and easy to like, with sour cher-ry candy, cranberry and white pepper flavors that finish with spicy oak. Earns an extra point for delicacy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Bishop’s Peak 2011 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). This wine is from Talley, and

while it’s nowhere near as good as the parent company’s Pinot Noir, it’s not bad for the price. Shows a nice, silky texture with bright, juicy flavors of cherries, cranberries and toast. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

86 De Loach 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv-er Valley). An elegant, pretty Pinot to drink

now. Dry and brisk in acidity, it has a nice, silky texture framing forward raspberry, red currant and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

86 Robert Mondavi 2011 Pinot Noir (Carne-ros). Fairly standard Pinot, but with some silky

qualities of interest. It’s dry and tart, but with ripe cran-berry, raspberry, vanilla and spice flavors. A very tasty wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

84 Andrew Murray 2011 This is Eleven Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Not very Pinot

Noir-like, with a heaviness that could be Grenache. The flavors are of cherries, red currants and sandalwood. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 Boekenoogen 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is an earthy

Pinot Noir with prominent mushroom notes. It’s crisp and dry, with some unripe flavors that compromise the otherwise ripe, red fruit. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

84 Carmenet 2011 Pinot Noir (California). This is a sound Pinot Noir that’s common but

varietally correct. Silky in texture, it’s dry and crisp with acidity, accented with pink bubblegum, raspberry-pie filling and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 Derby 2009 Derbyshire Vineyard San Simeon Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo

County). A rugged Pinot Noir, this wine is tough in acidity and a little green, with mint, raspberry jam and oak flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $36

84 Marshall Family Wines 2010 Fox in the Hen House Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is a

sound but heavy wine. Superripe raspberry and cherry jam flavors feels syrupy and unbalanced on the palate, partly due to it’s high alcohol level. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $60

83 31st State 2011 Pinot Noir (California). Lots of fresh, fruity flavors of raspberries and

cherries in this straightforward, dry wine. While it’s

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pretty simple, it has good acidity and is a good example of Pinot Noir for this price. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

83 Publix 2010 Premium Limited Edition Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine

is savory in style, with flavors of raspberries, orange peel and cola. Harsh in the mouth, with scoury acids and some abrupt tannins. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

82 Buccio 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Rasp-berry and oak flavors are pleasant, but unripe

vegetal flavors diminish the pleasure of this wine, add-ing hints of boiled asparagus. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

82 Pali 2011 Huntington Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Not quite ripe, with earthy,

green tomato, raspberry Newton cookie and spicy oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

82 Pali 2011 Summit Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Shows some green, unripe tomato and

beet flavors alongside notes of raspberries, caramel and oak. A decent wine, although it’s a bit pricy for what you get. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $29

82 Parkers Estate 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Dry and gritty with cherry and rasp-

berry flavors that finish thin and peppery. Nothing par-ticularly wrong, just a simple little Pinot Noir. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $21

CABERNETS & BLENDS

95 B Cellars 2009 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele-

na). This Dr. Crane vineyard has really rocked in re-cent vintages. Enormously rich and deep, with a fabu-lous compaction of black currant, dark chocolate, bak-ing spice and cedar flavors. There’s an interesting grilled meatiness, like the charred fat on a great steak, and lots of new oak, but it’s perfectly integrated. The smoky, toasty barrel notes are perfect companions to the fruit’s power. Drink this 100% Cab now and over the next 12–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $145

95 B Cellars 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).

An outstanding Cabernet that shows its pedigreed ori-gin in every respect. The aroma is profound with black currants, flavors deep and concentrated, and tannins as smooth and complex as Napa can produce. So beautiful now, it’s hard to resist drinking it, but this lovely wine should improve for a decade, slowly developing in the bottle. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $165

94 Altvs 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3.

abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 B Cellars 2009 Blend 26 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). This wine showcases

everything great about Napa Valley Cabernet. It’s dry, smoothly tannic and awesomely rich, offering tiers of black currants, licorice, dark chocolate, cedar and bak-ing spice flavors. The texture is pure, fine and satiny. Just a joy to drink now, but will develop bottle nuance over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

94 Chateau St. Jean 2009 Cinq Cépages (Sonoma County). For full review see page

4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

94 Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Vintage Re-serve (Sonoma Valley). For full review see

page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $80

94 Hunnicutt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). One sip is all it takes to delight.

This wine screams Napa Cabernet with every nuance. Few wines achieve this richness of fruit and tannins. It floods the mouth with blackberry jam, chocolate and cassis liqueur flavors, wrapped into firm but supple tannins, and brightened with a squirt of citrusy acidi-ty. Beautiful now, and should develop over the next de-cade. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $85

94 PerryMoore 2008 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).

For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $150

94 PerryMoore 2008 Paradii Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see

page 4. abv: 15% Price: $125

94 PerryMoore 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For

full review see page 4. abv: 15% Price: $100

94 Raymond 2009 Generations Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A flashy wine—

dry and rich and dense— that manages to be drinkable now, yet also ageable. The flamboyant black currant, chocolate, spice and oak flavors are delicious, and while the tannins are pretty strong, they’re finely ground, giv-ing the wine a nice grittiness. This blend will age well through 2020. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $100

94 Stone The Crows 2010 Three Twins Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

The latest entrant into the Napa Cabernet sweepstakes succeeds with this flashy wine. Made from grapes grown in the warm Vaca Hills east of the Silverado Trail, this wine impresses immediately with aromatics of black currants, mocha and lightly toasted French oak. In the mouth, it’s pure Cabernet pleasure, with soft, compel-ling tannins and fine acidity. It’s a dramatic wine that should develop well over the next 10 years, if not longer. This is a winery to watch. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

93 Hunnicutt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Gloriously rich and deca-

dently drinkable, but oh-so tannic. The fruit is dazzling-ly good, flooding the mouth with the essence of ripe cherries, raspberries, mocha and red plums, while oak adds even richer notes. Somehow, the wine finishes dry and clean. But those tannins are sticky. Cellar it until 2015 or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $85

93 PerryMoore 2008 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele-

na). For full review see page 5. abv: 14.7% Price: $125

93 PerryMoore 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Raymond 2009 District Collection Caber-net Sauvignon (St. Helena). An ambitious

Cabernet that’s part of Raymond’s program of high-lighting individual appellations within Napa Valley. This wine is delicious, exhibiting rich, deep flavors of black currants with tasteful accents of oak. While it’s fine to drink now, the tannins and long finish suggest up to eight years in the cellar will be beneficial. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

92 Bennett Lane 2009 Lynch Family Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga).

Enormously rich, soft and velvety, this wine defines the cult-Napa style of Cabernet Sauvignon. Really impress-es with the sheer power of its chocolate, blackberry and blueberry jam, cassis liqueur and new oak flavors. Hard to imagine it aging well, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

92 Beringer 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Knights Valley). Gobs of jammy

blackberry and cherry fruit mark this dynamic young wine, along with enticing notes of spice, mocha and toasty oak. The tannins are thick, but velvety, making it drinkable now. The Knights Valley appellation is a kind of high-elevation bridge between Sonoma County and Napa Valley; the wine shows true Mayacamas Mountain intensity. Drink now–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Folkway 2009 Black Ridge Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains).

Rich, ripe and dramatically layered with black currant, licorice and oak flavors that turn a little raisiny on the finish. Although it’s very dry, there’s ripeness in the fruit. Flashy enough to drink now, and should slowly mellow over 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

92 Keating 2010 Beckstoffer Georges III Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This is

a remarkably detailed Cabernet that shows off every-thing Napa has to give in the way of flash and richness. It’s dry, yet lush with ripe blackberry, blueberry and cas-sis flavors and plenty of toasty new oak. The tannins are as soft and complex as any in the world, making this wine beautiful to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $95


92 Raymond 2009 District Collection Caber-net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Edgy tannins

are the star in this young Cabernet. They give the wine a gritty feeling, making it hard to embrace the ripe black-berry, black cherry and currant flavors. The dryness, fine acidity and overall balance suggest this will have no trouble negotiating the next 10 years in the cellar. Cel-lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

92 Sodaro 2009 Estate Blend (Napa Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend shows the promise of

the Coombsville area. It’s rich in chocolate, blackber-ry jam and toasty oak, wrapped into layers of insanely smooth, refined tannins. Really shows off the modern style of Napa Cabernet in a decadent way. Should de-velop well in the bottle for at least a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $75

92 Sodaro 2009 Felicity Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet blend

shows the future of the new Coombsville region, which was officially approved as an appellation in 2011. It’s a powerful wine with penetrating blackberry, currant and mocha flavors, while the structure is especially fine and firm. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

92 Terlato 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.2% Price: $72

91 B Cellars 2009 Syn3rgy Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). This 100% Cabernet

is a blend of Oak Knoll, Oakville and St. Helena fruit. It’s flashy, impressive, and a fine representation of Napa Valley. Dry, full bodied and tannic, it’s concentrated with blackberry, black currant, baking spice and cedar flavors. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $65

91 Hidden Ridge 2008 55% Slope Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). For full re-

view see page 7. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

91 Keenan 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Spring Mountain). Powerful, extract-

ed blackberry, blueberry and chocolate flavors mark this wine. It shows its mountain origins in the thick tannins, but they’re soft and smooth, in the modern style. Ex-pensive, yes, but classy. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $96

91 Kunde 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So-noma Valley). For full review see page 7. Edi-

tors’ Choice.abv: 14.2% Price: $25

91 Mount Veeder 2008 Reserve (Napa Val-ley). So rich and fruity, it’s hard to keep from

drinking this wine now, although it should develop bot-tle complexity over the next decade. It floods the mouth with flavors of blackberry, cherry, currant, mocha and toasty oak, all wrapped with firm, astringent tannins. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

91 Silver Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). It’s easy to see why Silver Oak

remains so popular with the restaurant crowd. It’s made in a more restrained style than many other Napa Cabs. There’s plenty of berry and currant fruit as well as oak, but it’s accompanied by tobacco and herbs that give the wine an earthiness. What the wine lacks in dazzle it more than makes up for in elegance and subtlety. Should develop well for at least a decade. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $110

91 Wallis Family Estate 2010 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Diamond Mountain). Tough and

hard, this is a Cabernet that tastes old fashioned with its dry, tannic astringency. It certainly marches to a dif-ferent beat, even for the Diamond Mountain District that’s known for difficult tannins. Will it age? There’s a solid core of black currant and green olive flavor that suggests it will. Hold until 2018, at least. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

90 Buehler 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

90 Courtney Benham 2010 Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). For

full review see page 8. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

90 Franciscan 2009 Magnificat Meritage (Napa Valley). Smooth, rich and tannic, and

lovely for drinking now. You’ll find blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate and toasty oak flavors, leading to a dry finish. Give it a little time in a decanter before pouring. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Frog’s Leap 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Here’s a rich, complex Napa

Cabernet for drinking now while you’re waiting for your more ageable wines to mature. It boasts a decadent structure housing ripe flavors of blackberries, black cur-rants and smoky, toasty oak. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $42

90 Hawkstone 2010 Connoisseur Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Merits

its high score by virtue of the concentrated black cur-rant flavors that are so intense and pure, they’re the es-sence of Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet the wine is also very tannic, with a lockdown astringency that leaves the mouth all puckery after you swallow. Give it 5–6 years in a good cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Keating 2010 Encomium Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (California). This is an upscale Caber-

net, rich in black currants, mocha and oak, and framed in sturdy tannins. Shows lots of class despite the state-wide California appellation. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

90 Malk 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Lots of deliciousness in this

dry, tannic Cabernet. Offers tiers of black currant, dark chocolate, licorice and toasty oak flavors that are smooth and flashy. A little high in alcohol and its future is uncer-tain, so drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $80

90 Meander 2009 Morisoli Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Hard, stringy

tannins give a tough astringency to this 100% Cabernet. Partly they’re from grape skins and partly from 100% new oak barrels. There’s a huge core of black currants, however, and the finish is dry and balanced. Will it age? Almost certainly. Give it at least eight years in a good cellar, and it could go well beyond that. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

90 Vellum 2009 Black (Napa Valley). This Pe-tit Verdot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend clearly

wants some time in the cellar. Although it’s extraordi-narily rich with blackberries, black currants and violets, the tannin-acid structure is such that aging for at least ten years shouldn’t be a problem. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $65

90 Vellum 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots of characteristic Cabernet flavor

in this wine. Blackberrry jam and cassis liqueur flavors flood the mouth, heady and flashy and long in the fin-ish. The tannins are thick, yet so soft, you can enjoy this wine now, although it will develop over the next ten years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

90 Windsor Oaks 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). No need to cellar

this Cab. It’s so rich and ripe, it’s easy to drink now de-spite some firm tannins. Showy and flashy, it has rasp-berry, cherry and blueberry flavors, with a jacket of smoky oak. Nevertheless, it will take 5–6 years of ag-ing. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

90 Windsor Oaks 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). Great structure on

this Cab, with firm tannins and a fine hit of acidity. It’s ripe and appealing with black cherries, cherry liqueur, vanilla and oak. Already throwing significant sediment, it should continue to evolve in interesting ways for a few more years. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $45

89 Bennett Lane 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Softly tannic and sinfully rich,

a drink-me-now Cabernet that offers plenty of upscale Napa pleasure. The flavors are intricate, offering tiers of blackberry and cherry jam, currant, mocha and toasty oak. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

89 Franciscan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Good price for a Cabernet this

elegant and classy. It’s not an something for the cellar, but offers everything it has now, with ripe blackberry,

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black currant and cedar flavors that are wrapped into sturdy, smooth tannins. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

89 Nottingham Cellars 2009 Supremacy (Livermore Valley). A rich, concentrated

Livermore Valley Bordeaux blend, comprised of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon and lesser percentages of Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. This vin-tage of Supremacy has a big presence, smelling of earth and cinnamon, a layering of blackberry and chocolate lingering in the background. A wine with great texture and mellowing tannins ready to drink now or in 5–7 years. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $48

89 Raymond 2009 Reserve Selection Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Marked

by deep, delicious flavors of chocolate, blueberries and blackberries, this is a lovely Cabernet to drink now. The tannins are firm, the finish long and spicy. Shows real Napa class. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

89 Robert Mondavi 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Lots of elegance in this

Cabernet. It’s dry, full bodied and rich in tannins, with a good depth of black currants and sweet, toasty oak. Won’t age, but who cares: Pop the cork and drink it now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

89 Rodney Strong 2010 Symmetry Meritage (Alexander Valley). A lush, complex wine,

based on Cabernet Sauvignon and including all of the classic Bordeaux varieties. It’s softly tannic and slightly herbal in the Alexander Valley way, with savory black cherry, cherry liqueur, cocoa and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

89 Star Lane Vineyard 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).

Green peppercorns give a hard edge to the blackberry, currant and anise flavors on this Cabernet. Despite firm tannins, the palate shows lots of finesse and has a re-wardingly chewy mouthfeel. An interesting wine hint-ing at the promise of this appellation. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $44

89 Yates Family Vineyard 2009 Alden Perry Reserve (Mount Veeder). Easy to like for its

incredibly rich flavors of blackberry jam and cola. The tannins are front and center, yet they’re ripe and soft. Meanwhile, oak barrel aging brings a succulent jacket of toast. Doesn’t taste like your typically ageable Mount Veeder wine, but it sure is delicious now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

88 Amizetta 2010 Complexity (Napa Valley). Your first and last impression of this wine is

how tannic it is. It’s almost old fashioned in this respect, numbing the mouth with hard astringency. However the flavors are ripe and intense, suggesting heady crême de cassis liqueur, and the overall feeling is dry and bal-anced. If you’re a gambler, give it 10 years and see what happens. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

88 Bennett Lane 2009 Maximus (Napa Val-ley). Soft, sweet and smooth, a nice Cabernet

Sauvignon-based wine to drink now. The palate is stel-lar, offering waves of cherries, raspberries, mocha, lico-rice and buttered cinnamon toast. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Black Stallion 2008 Black Label Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A gentle but

flashy reserve-style Cabernet for drinking now. It’s rich in blackberry jam, currants and anise, with touches of smoky oak. The acid-tannin structure gives it the refine-ment of an upscale Napa Cab. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

88 Cuda Ridge Wines 2010 Cabernet Franc (Livermore Valley). This is a very pleasing

Cab Franc that’s rich and and spicy like cola with a dark and brooding feel. Full bodied and concentrated, the finish is long and slightly herbal. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $29

88 Kimmel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men-docino County). A very good Mendocino

County Cabernet, Kimmel is tightly tannic with an ele-gant backbeat. The palate is very savory in its cranberry, herb and dark berry fruit flavors. Full bodied with lay-ers of concentration, the wine’s still young; give it time to open and develop. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

88 Korbin Kameron 2009 Cuvée Kristin (So-noma Valley). Marked by exceptionally rich,

fruity flavors that finish candy sweet, this Merlot-based blend has cherry jam, blackberry, mocha and spice fla-vors and soft tannins. Drink it over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

88 Korbin Kameron 2008 Moonridge Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val-

ley). This is rich like a dessert pastry made with dried cherries, milk chocolate, anise, roasted almonds and brown sugar. Alcohol gives it a slight burn. A good ex-ample of the riper style for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

88 Meander 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough in tannins, but rich in

black currant flavor, this 100% Cab has some elegant features in its purity of structure and dryness. Let it air in the glass for 30 minutes or so before drinking. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $75

88 Merryvale 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is rich with tannins and

a little heavy on the palate with massive, concentrated flavors of blackberry jam, licorice and mocha. Delicious in that classic Napa way, if lacking a bit of finesse. Seems best now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $70

88 Nottingham Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Livermore Valley). Rich in savory

herbs and raspberry liqueur, Nottingham’s Livermore Valley Cab is sourced from several regional vineyards. Blended with Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, and aged in French oak, this is an easy drinking wine with

deceptive complexity and just the right amount of depth and weight. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

88 Peter Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). There’s still a lot of blackberry

and cherry pie fruit on this nearly six-year-old wine. It’s just starting to turn the corner, showing hints of matu-rity, mellowing tannins and a sweet, spicy finish. Drink it over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $31

88 Raymond 2009 District Collection Caber-net Sauvignon (Calistoga). So rich and soft

with chocolate, raspberry and vanilla flavors, this wine is better sipped by itself than with food. The alcohol level is enormously high, giving this Cabernet the headiness of a Port. —S.H. abv: 16.1% Price: $75

88 Sagebrush Annie’s 2007 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Santa Barbara County). This is a

very dry, tannic Cabernet. It has blackberry and blue-berry fruit that’s obscured by some scoury astringen-cy. Drink now, or give it a couple more years to come around. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $42

88 Sextant 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). What a nice Paso Cabernet, perfect

for drinking now. While dry in style, it’s rich and sweet in black currant, anise and cedar flavors, and the thick tannins are just what you want in a full-bodied Cab. Wonderful with hearty beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

88 Windsor Oaks 2009 Cabernet Franc (Chalk Hill). Succulence is one thing this Cab

Franc possesses in abundance. It’s enormously rich and concentrated in cherry pie and blackberry jam flavors, with a streak of cured meat. The tannins are quite brisk, so you might want to decant for a few hours. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

87 Ballard Lane 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Good price for a Cab this suc-

culent. Shows lots of rich, upfront blackberry jam and cassis flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. A touch of oak adds a pleasant jacket of smoky-sweet char. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $12

87 Baron Herzog 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Lots of pure Cabernet flavor

in this pleasant wine. It’s rich in black cherry tart, cur-rant, licorice and spice flavors, with a sweet coating of smoky oak. Good price for the quality. Kosher. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $13

87 C. Mondavi & Family 2010 The Divining Rod Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Val-

ley). Here’s a classy Cabernet for drinking now. It’s dry and smooth in tannins, with complex flavors of black-berries, currants, tobacco and cedar that finish soft and rich. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20


87 Courtney Benham 2010 Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains).

Shows the tannins of a mountain-grown wine, but not the depth of one to age, so drink up. This is a fine Cab-ernet, with great varietal character, showcasing black-berry and currant flavors enhanced with smoky cedar wood. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

87 Meadowcroft 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Lots of blackberry, cur-

rant, beef jerky and sandalwood flavors in this dry but luscious Cab. It’s brisk in tannins, and made in a drink-me-now style. Give it an hour in the decanter and en-joy. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $28

87 Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Dark

as night, this is a sumptuous, rich, concentrated and full-bodied Cabernet tasting of dark berry and oak, with a trace of leather saddle on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

87 Monte De Oro 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Temecula Valley). One of the betters Cabs

from Temecula Valley, this one’s invitingly rich and full, with pleasant layers of cola-like spice and dark plum, its tannins tamed and round. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $32

87 Owl Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al-exander Valley). There’s lots of smoothness to

this Cabernet. It’s at its best now, showing delicious lay-ers of black currants, anise and sandalwood, wrapped into firm but supple tannins. Gets an extra point for fanciness. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

87 Rancho Sisquoc 2010 Flood Family Vine-yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barba-

ra County). White pepper and thyme stand alongside ripe flavors of blackberries and toasty oak in this Caber-net. Brisk acidity testifies to its cool-climate origins. Will drink well over the next five years or so. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

87 Robert John 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Pretty good Cabernet, dry and

very tannic, and rich in black currants and oak. It’s made in the modern style, and not likely to age, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $75

86 Clarksburg Wine Company 2010 Caber-net Franc (Clarksburg). True to type, this

Cab Franc from cool-climate Clarksburg is very herbal and dry, with a back beat of black cherry. Rich on the finish, herb flavors turns to chocolate and clove. A good wintertime wine. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

86 Merryvale 2009 Starmont Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). A solid if unexciting

Cabernet, dry, tannic and balanced. Shows blackberry and black currant flavors that are tinged with smoky oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $27

86 Moonstone 2009 Westside Reserve Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dry, tan-

nic and ripe, with flavors of black currant, raisin and a coating of spicy oak. The tannins are rich and thick and high alcohol gives this wine a slight burn, but richly sauced barbecue flavors balance that out. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $34

86 Weibel Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Redwood Valley). An aromatically pleasant

Cabernet that’s bright in cassis and raspberry with a little bit of leather in the background. Medium bodied with tame tannins that have a tinge of greenness on the finish. A fine midweek wine that’ll stand up to steak or burgers. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

85 Girasole Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Mendocino). An easygoing, savory

wine with penetrating tannins and a pronounced flavor of cranberry. A good go-to pick for a crowd. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Monogamy 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). A good-value Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon that’s straightforward in texture, body and struc-ture. Its dark cherry and herbal tones are just right for meaty mid-week dishes, including that old standby, roast chicken. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $11

85 Noble Vines 2010 337 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Lodi). This is a Cab made unabashedly

to appeal to a broad range of palates. It’s medium in weight and texture with layers of vanilla and cherry that are persistent enough to stand up to all kinds of food. A perfect burger wine, especially for a crowd. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

85 Publix 2008 Premium Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain).

Tart in acidity and tight in tannins, this is a hard, dry Cabernet. It has black currant and dark chocolate fla-vors, accented with new oak. Not likely to improve, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $25

85 Q 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is a Cabernet to serve at parties

and satisfy people who are looking for something red, dry and full bodied. It’s definitely rustic, but has some nice berry, cherry, currant and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Barra of Mendocino 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino). This

is an easy drinking Cabernet tasting of red cherry and cranberry with a slight layer of herb that would suffice for a midweek meal. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

84 Bogle 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-nia). A little sharp and simple, but for the price,

this everyday Cab gets the job done. It’s dry and tannic, with good blackberry fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Monogamy 2011 Truly Madly Deeply Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). No-

ticeably herbal, this Cabernet, a good deal at its price point, is rich and the right call for midweek pizza or oth-er casual fare. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

81 Clos du Bois 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). A Cabernet Sauvignon marked

by an overpowering aroma and taste of bell pepper and herbs. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

MERLOT

92 La Jota Vineyard 2008 Merlot (Napa Val-ley). A dazzling Merlot, rich and complex, of-

fering immediately appealing waves of cherry pie, red currant, cola, mocha, brown sugar, cinnamon and sweet oak. Even though the tannins are thick, they’re as soft as velvet. The structural integrity of this wine is pure Napa Valley and makes the wine particularly fine. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

90 Hunnicutt 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). Lots of silky, sensual berry, mocha, red currant and

sweet sandalwood flavors in this softly approachable Merlot, which hails from the emerging Coombsville re-gion. It has a good hit of acidity and tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 McIntyre Vineyards 2011 Kimberly Vine-yard Merlot (Arroyo Seco). For full review

see page 8. Editors’ Choice.abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Merryvale 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $48

89 Cuda Ridge Wines 2010 Merlot (Liver-more Valley). This Livermore Valley Merlot

has a smooth, seductive aroma of cinnamon spice and clove upon opening, followed by rich notes of dark vel-vety plum. Long on the finish, it’s a classically mannered California Merlot ready for the dinner table or to sip on its own. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

87 Folkway 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Merlot (Santa Maria Valley). Big, rich and

thickly textured and oaky. The blackberry, cherry and mocha flavors finish in a swirl of tannis. Delicious, if a little aggressive. Decant it for a few hours before serv-ing. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $35

87 Grgich Hills 2008 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa Valley). Give this wine credit for dry-

ness, crisp acidity and intensity. It’s rich and strong in sour black cherry candy, cola, bitter dark chocolate and herb flavors. It’s also very tannic, so much so that it’s practically undrinkable now. Give it 4–5 years in the bottle, decant, and drink with beef or lamb. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

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87 Kunde 2010 Estate Merlot (Sonoma Val-ley). Shows the classic Kunde signature of

pure, intense Merlot, at a good price. Soft and ripe with cherries, licorice and mocha, it’s a gentle, easy wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

87 Nottingham Cellars 2010 Triska Crane Ridge Merlot (Livermore Valley). A soft,

concentrated Merlot with plenty of tannic structure and density. Expansive in blackberry and plum fruit, there’s a trace of herb in the mix before the wine finishes on a vanilla and caramel note. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Raymond 2009 Reserve Selection Merlot (Napa Valley). A blast of ripe cherries, choco-

late, roasted coconut and almond and brown sugar fla-vors, Merlot hardly gets richer than this. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 Ballard Lane 2010 Merlot (Paso Robles). Sharp in acidity but fruity, this Merlot-Cabernet

Franc blend has cherry, red currant and licorice flavors. It’s an elegant wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Buena Vista 2010 Merlot (Carneros). This is a candy shop of a wine, with raspberry, lico-

rice and brown sugar flavors. Not very complicated, but easy to drink now for its soft appeal. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Korbin Kameron 2009 Estate Grown Mer-lot (Sonoma Valley). This Merlot is very

fruity and forward with persistent berry jam, cassis, an-ise and mocha flavors. Although the tannins are brisk, it’s a wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

86 Magistrate 2011 Limited Production Mer-lot (Central Coast). This is a sound, everyday

Merlot with some special qualities that give it an extra point or two. It’s dry and smooth in tannins, with lay-ers of cherries, blackberries, currants and licorice. Not likely to age well, so give it a little time to breathe and drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

86 Robert Mondavi 2010 Merlot (Napa Val-ley). This pleasant Merlot is a little tough and

gritty, but it’s rich and candied in blackberry and cherry, roasted almond and vanilla flavors. Give it some time to breathe in the glass. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

86 Sagebrush Annie’s 2010 Merlot (Santa Barbara County). Keen in acidity, with cher-

ry and blackberry fruit. Fine for drinking now, but give it a little time to breathe. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

85 Rancho Sisquoc 2010 Flood Family Vine-yards Merlot (Santa Barbara County).

Simple and jammy in raspberries and cherries, but the

acidity is fine and the tannins are just right. It’s an easy Merlot to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

84 Weibel Family 2009 Merlot (Mendocino County). This is an herbal Merlot with a taste

of green olive tapenade. It’s soft and round with a cara-mel-like oaky note on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

83 Kenefick Ranch 2009 Estate Grown Mer-lot (Calistoga). Soft and candied with black-

berry and cherry flavors and notes of caramel from oak. There’s also some prickly heat from high alcohol. The end result is a clumsy wine, but it’s decadent in its ripe-ness. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $50

MALBEC

90 Steven Kent 2009 Ghielmetti Vineyard Malbec (Livermore Valley). Voluptuous and

inviting, this Malbec has softened tannins amid bright blue and black fruit and wild cinnamon flavors. Struc-tured and concentrated this is a memorable wine that will age another 5–10 years and go deliciously with a range of foods. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

88 Keating 2010 Malbec (Rockpile). Enor-mously rich in blackberries and black currants,

this Malbec has a meatiness that strongly suggests pair-ing with beef. It’s dry, strong in tannins and high in al-cohol. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

88 Windsor Oaks 2009 Block 35 Malbec (Chalk Hill). This is a very ripe, forward wine,

saturated in cherries, blackberries, currants and oak. It has Malbec’s characteristically sturdy tannins and could use some protein and fat, a grilled steak, perhaps, to play against it. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

87 Nottingham Cellars 2010 Aguirre Vine-yard Malbec (Livermore Valley). Amid the

fruity, dried plum softness and marked acidity in this wine, there’s a pronounced note of coconut and marsh-mallow aromatically and on the finish. A sliver of herb carries from start to finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

87 Windsor Oaks 2008 Block 35 Malbec (Chalk Hill). This Malbec is jammy with can-

died cherry and raspberry, vanilla and toast flavors. Earns extra points for rich tannins. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

86 Rancho Sisquoc 2010 Flood Family Vine-yards Malbec (Santa Barbara County).

Malbec’s characteristic tannins and acidity are here, but so is California’s sunny sweetness. The wine is rich in jammy blackberries, with a leathery smokiness. Drink it now with steak. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

85 Hearst Ranch 2010 Babicora Malbec (Paso Robles). An awkward wine, with some

sharp, green tea notes that stick in the mouth. Other-wise, you’ll find firm tannins and jammy blackberry fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

PETIT VERDOT

92 Merryvale 2009 Estate Petit Verdot (St. Helena). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.9% Price: $75

88 Cuda Ridge Wines 2010 Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). Rich and chewy in blue-

berry fruit, Cuda continues to make a name for Liver-more Valley Petit Verdot as a standalone wine, this one is huge in mouthfeel, as you’d expect, ready for savory, meaty fare. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

88 Steven Kent 2009 Ghielmetti Vineyard Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). This small-

lot Petit Verdot needs another 5–7 years to shine. There’s an intensity of licorice, black fruit and choco-late that’s detectable, but the oak and tannin structure loom ominously over the fruit right now. Heaviness on the palate is balanced as well by the wine’s acidity, a feat for such a big-boned grape variety. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

SYRAH

92 Mira 2009 Hyde Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 15.5% Price: $48

91 Andrew Murray 2011 Watch Hill Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Winemaker

Andrew Murray brings his deft touch to this Syrah. It’s dry, full bodied, tannic and complex, with nervy black-berry, licorice, grilled meat, ground pepper, wild thyme and toast flavors. Great with roasted lamb, grilled steak, short ribs. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 La Clarine Farm 2011 Suma Kaw Syrah (Sierra Foothills). The Suma Kaw Syrah from

Hank Beckmeyer is an intriguing combination of great site and experimental winemaker. It’s woody and herbal with a menthol sheen and an unexpectedly bright crisp-ness contrasted by dark, savory meat and smoke. A wine that’ll start conversations, enjoy it with roasted, herb-encrusted meats—the culinary equivalent of the wine. —V.B. abv: 12.4% Price: $24

91 La Fenêtre 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Z Block Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Here’s a

big, rich, tannic Syrah that’s full bodied and dense, and exploding with blackberry, currant, mocha, cedar and spice flavors. Notable for its tannin structure, it’s clearly made from well-grown grapes, and balanced in struc-ture. It’s resistant now, however, holding its best under a cloak of astringency. Should begin to mellow around


2015 and really take off through 2020. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $59

91 Nagy 2010 Syrah (Santa Barbara Coun-ty). Here’s a big, rich, full-bodied and tannic

young Syrah. Bone dry, it shows concentrated blackber-ry essence, dried currant and cedar flavors, with hints of smoked meat, black pepper and tobacco. Very finely structured, it captures the tannic purity that the Santa Maria Valley lends to Syrah. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Bien Nacido 2009 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). This is a dry, finely acidic Syrah, whose

sour cherry and tart persimmon flavors have just a touch of smoky new oak. It’s not offering everything it has, but hangs back a little, teasing with nuance and subtlety. A very good Syrah that’s drinking well now and should age well over the next 5–7 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $52

90 Cinnabar 2010 Syrah (Paso Robles). Dark in color, dry and tannic, this 100% Syrah is rich

in blackberry, dark chocolate, roasted meat and black pepper flavors. They combine with new oak to produce a wine of real complexity. This is one of the more in-teresting Syrahs to emerge from the Paso area. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $38

90 Sinor-LaVallee 2010 Les Galets Vine-yards Syrah (Arroyo Grande Valley). Ful-

fills one of the main tenets of California Syrah, which is to feel velvety and vital in the mouth. The vineyard is better known as a source of Pinot Noir, and its cool-cli-mate terroir lend brisk acidity, firm tannins and a cured meat note to the ripe blackberries and currants. Very delicious, and the price is great for the quality. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

89 Kessler-Haak 2010 Lafond Vineyard Syr-ah (Sta. Rita Hills). Lots of structure in this

Syrah, with brisk acids and firm tannins. It’s bone dry and silky in texture, with interesting flavors of berries, licorice, sautéed mushrooms and salty smoked meat. Elegant now, after a brief decanting, and should hold for a couple of years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

87 Moonstone 2010 Syrah (Paso Robles). Dark purple on the pour, this is a big, rich, Shi-

raz-style Syrah, dense in blackberries, black currants, grilled bacon on oak. It’s tannic and dry, yet ripe with fruit. Very high alcohol gives it some heat that calls for barbecue. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $24

87 Von Holt 2010 Hoppe Kelly Vineyard Syr-ah (Sonoma County). This is a soft, gentle

Syrah for drinking now. It’s rich in black cherry, red cur-rant, cola, bacon and spice flavors, wrapped into firm but soft tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

86 Andrew Murray 2011 Tous les Jours Syr-ah (Santa Ynez Valley). This is Murray’s ju-

nior version of Syrah, less expensive than his Watch Hill

bottling, but also not as charming. It’s dry, tannic and a little sharp, with red currant, brown sugar and pepper flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

86 Rancho Sisquoc 2010 Flood Family Vine-yards Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This

is a good Syrah that’s dry and spicy and ready to drink now with a great burger. The blackberry flavors have earthy, tobacco and grilled meat notes. The acidity is a bit sharp. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

84 Monte De Oro 2009 Vista Del Monte Vine-yard Syrah (Temecula Valley). They make

them big down in Temecula and in this case, the alcohol detracts somewhat from the wine, giving it a relentless density that coats the tongue. Time spent in all French oak is also duly noted on the palate. This wine is heavy, big and dry, and will appeal to people who love that style. —V.B. abv: 16.5% Price: $34

PETITE SIRAH

90 Nottingham Cellars 2010 Casas de Vinas Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). This is a

very herbal and chocolaty Petite Sirah that’s characteris-tically dark and inky. Tannins are under control and the palate a concentrated mix of ripe blueberry, game and black pepper. Sourced from a single vineyard site in the Livermore Valley and aged in all new American oak, this baby can age well another 3–5 years or be enjoyed now with equally robust food. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

89 David Fulton 2009 Estate Bottled Petite Sirah (St. Helena). There’s a richness to this

wine that’s immensely pleasurable, but also a meaty, umami spiciness. It’s actually remniscent of chocolate-covered bacon, infused with blackberry essence and liq-uid licorice, then sprinkled with black pepper. Really delicious, if a little hot in alcohol. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

88 De Paola Vineyard 2008 Petite Sirah (Ar-royo Grande Valley). Made in a high-alcohol,

extracted style, this Petite is explosive in blackberry jam, currant and spice flavors. The tannins are brisk, as you’d expect with this variety, while a pleasant streak of acidity cuts across the richness and gives the wine zest. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $29

88 Kenneth Volk 2009 French Camp Vine-yard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). This ro-

bust wine captures Petite Sirah’s deeply rustic nature, offering dense waves of blackberry and currant, smoked meat and pepper flavors that are wrapped into firm tan-nins. Drink now for maximum freshness and fruitiness. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

87 Clarksburg Wine Company 2010 Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). From a region and pro-

ducer more widely known for Chenin Blanc comes this very drinkable Petite Sirah with chewy blue fruit, cof-

fee, toasty coconut and oak. There’s enough structure and girth to age a while, so pair it in a few years with roasted or braised meats, a giant slab of steak or any other suitably hearty meal. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $26

87 Graziano 2007 Petite Sirah (Mendocino). A fine Mendocino Petite Sirah that’s mouth fill-

ing with blueberry and licorice and plenty structured to age longer than it already has. With pleasant layers of licorice and black tea, especially on the finish, it’s also ready to drink now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Two Angels 2008 Petite Sirah (High Val-ley). An intense and inky Petite Sirah adorned

with licorice and silky plum and blueberry flavors. With just the right amount of meatiness and softened tannins, this structured wine has a fine accent of spice on the finish and will age for years and years to come. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

85 Bogle 2010 Petite Sirah (California). This is a fine Petite Sirah at this price, good for ev-

eryday fare like pizza or barbecue. It’s dark in color, dry, tannic and stuffed with juicy blackberry and currant fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

SANGIOVESE

87 Morovino 2010 Sangiovese (Santa Bar-bara County). Shows the dryness and tart

acidity of a nice Sangiovese, with sour cherry candy fla-vors and firm, slightly astringent tannins. It’s also a bit rustic. Try as a racy, earthy companion to beef or veal dishes, or tomato-based chicken casseroles. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

86 Castello di Amorosa 2009 Sangiovese (Napa Valley). Lots of juicy acidity and sour

cherry candy and leather flavors in this dry, tannic San-giovese. It can’t quite rise above its rustic nature, but fatty beef and cheese dishes will help tame it. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

84 Barra of Mendocino 2010 Estate Grown Sangiovese (Mendocino). There’s a cinna-

mon and clove sweetness in aroma of this Sangiovese, which would be a fine accompaniment to pizza or pasta during the week. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

82 Girasole Vineyards 2010 Sangiovese (Mendocino). A Mendocino Sangiovese with

odd vanilla notes that’s stingy in fruit and tannin. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Orfila 2010 Estate Sangiovese (San Pasqual). There may be an interesting wine

lurking in the dark shadows here, but the oak and al-cohol are overpowering in ways that mask the plummy cinnamon within. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $30

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TEMPRANILLO

89 Occasio 2010 Tempranillo (Livermore Valley). Rich and thick like a satisfyingly dark

chocolate and raspberry pie, this Tempranillo’s deca-dence is offset by a soft texture and balanced acidity, making it a perfect match for tapas, bacon or creamy goat cheeses. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

87 Hearst Ranch 2010 Chileano Tempranillo (Paso Robles). Light-bodied and silky, like

a Pinot Noir, with deep flavors of herbs, cherries, cur-rants, anise and sandalwood. A few drops of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Petite Sir-ah give it needed depth. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 M2 2010 Tormenta-Kirschenman Vine-yard Tempranillo (Lodi). This Tempranillo

has a core of rich, deep, dark berry and cherry fruit, rounded out by layers of soft, spicy tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

ZINFANDEL

93 Ravenswood 2010 Old Hill Ranch Zin-fandel (Sonoma Valley). For full review see

page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

92 Ravenswood 2010 Teldeschi Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This is clas-

sic Dry Creek Zin—robust, heady, rich in tannins, spicy and insanely flavorful. Explodes with briary, brambly wild berries, mocha, tobacco, anise, dried pine nee-dles and exotic sandalwood notes. Really delicious now, and should age well over the next 10 years, gradual-ly mellowing and shedding fruit and tannins. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

90 Ravenswood 2010 Belloni Vineyard Zin-fandel (Russian River Valley). A wonderful

Zin, rich, ripe and robust, with the full-throttle power you expect in the variety. It’s smooth in tannins, dry and spicy, with complex flavors of wild berry jam, red cur-rant, sweet tobacco, green tea, anise and pepper, and a hit of heat from alcohol. Fine now, and should gain trac-tion in the bottle over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Bogle 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor-nia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 14.5% Price: $11

89 Galvan 2010 Zinfandel (Howell Moun-tain). Tastes fresh and fruity with jammy rasp-

berry and cherry flavors. Wants slightly sweet, spicy foods to accompany, like a sausage-based pasta. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

89 Kennedy Family 2010 Vite Vecchio Cen-tanni Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val-

ley). A fine Zin that shows its Dry Creek origins in a classic way. It’s dry, briary, brambly and heady, with wild forest berry, pine, anise and sweet cedar flavors. Nice

now with steak, short ribs or barbecue, and will hold and develop interestingly over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $35

89 Ravenswood 2010 Barricia Vineyard Zin-fandel (Sonoma Valley). Heady alcohol

gives this Zin a jalapeño pepper heat that packs a real punch when combined with wild berry jam, dried cur-rant and chocolate flavors. The tannins are thick and smooth and the finish rich with glycerine. Great with barbecued beef or short ribs. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

88 Bella 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). You could use this wine as a textbook Dry Creek

Zin. Ripe and delicious with briary blackberry, cherry, cola and currant flavors that persist through a long, spicy finish. The tannins are furry, giving it instant likeability. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $25

88 De Loach 2010 OFS Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Rich, tannic and full bodied,

with black cherry jam, red currant, raisin and spice fla-vors that are penetrating and long. It’s a heady wine that’s high in alcohol—drink now with grilled beef or chicken slathered in barbecue sauce. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

88 Hawley 2011 Ponzo Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Classic Sonoma

Zin—dry, tannic and spicy. Shows the briary, brambly side of the variety, with wild blueberry, blackberry and cola flavors finished with exotic spices and a hint of dark chocolate. The addition of Petite Sirah may be respon-sible for the sizable tannins. This is a wine that will last for many years, gradually softening, but it’s best enjoyed soon for its fruity exuberance. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

88 Peachy Canyon 2011 Mustang Springs Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Made in the

Peachy Canyon style of great power and ripeness, this is one of the more assertive Zinfandels out there. Blended with some Petite Sirah, which gives it even greater heft, it’s basically a nuclear blast of wild, briary summer ber-ries and spices. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $38

87 De Loach 2010 Von Weidlich Vineyard Zinfandel (Green Valley). A very rich, elabo-

rate Zinfandel, stuffed with briary wild berry, currant and spice flavors, with a complex edge of smoked meat. It’s tannic, dry and high in alcohol, which gives it a warm headiness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

87 De Paola Vineyard 2008 Emilio Zinfan-del (Arroyo Grande Valley). The alcohol on

this Zin is enormous, giving it a Port-style headiness. But it sure is delicious, offering tiers of black currants, chocolate, sweet licorice and cedar. Defines this robust style of California Zin in a rich, barbecue-friendly way. —S.H. abv: 16.3% Price: $29

87 Kunde 2009 Kinneybrook Zinfandel (So-noma Valley). Lots of spicy Zin flavors in this

affordable wine. It’s soft and rich, yet dry, with briary blackberry, black currant, cocoa and spice flavors that finish with a warm headiness. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $20

87 Macchia 2010 Mischievous Zinfandel (Lodi). Sourced from old vines, this is classi-

cally huge Lodi Zin, rich and thick in bright red jammy red fruit and brick tar. Well made, it’ll please Zin aficio-nados in every way, from texture to muscularity to oaky vanilla finish. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $20

87 Meadowcroft 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). A good, dry Zinfandel whose youth-

fulness shows in fresh flavors of wild berries and brisk, citrusy acidity. Notes of black pepper, leather, orange zest and anise provide a lusty complexity. Drink over the next two years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

87 Sierra Starr 2009 Phil’s Selection Zinfan-del (Sierra Foothills). Rich and full bodied,

Phil’s Selection Zin is a statement on blackberry jam lay-ered in leathery goodness with slight accents of spice and tobacco. A big bold wine that’ll need big bold fla-vors to match. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Peachy Canyon 2011 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Strong and ripe with Zinny flavor—

intense wild berry and cherry fruit as well as a briary, brambly mouthfeel. High alcohol gives it a glycerine richness. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $38

85 d’Art Wines 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). A dark, savory Zinfandel with hearty expressions of ba-

con, oak and tar. Classic to Lodi’s reputation for plus-size Zins from old vines, d’Art’s has easygoing tannins throughout and a poke of vanilla in its finish. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $22

85 Ravenswood 2010 Dickerson Zinfandel (Napa Valley). A big, in your face Zin, with

concentrated blackberry jam, currant and espresso fla-vors along with some overripe raisin and prune notes. High alcohol gives a burn to the palate and the tannins are bitter. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

85 Sierra Starr 2009 Old Clone Zinfandel (Nevada County). Tight, savory and austere,

this mountain-grown Zin needs time to show its very peppery nature and sly red fruit, but will pair expertly with pizza or other pasta. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

84 De Loach 2010 Forgotten Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This is a soft, richly fruity

Zinfandel. It’s jammy in raspberries and cherries, with superripe raisin and prune flavors. The alcohol is very high. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $36


OTHER RED BLENDS

93 Castello di Amorosa 2008 La Castellana (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.6% Price: $68

92 B Cellars 2009 Blend 24 (Napa Valley). An unusual combination of Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, Sangiovese and Syrah, and quite a successful one. This wine exemplifies the art of the blend with seamless flavors of black currants, cherries, roasted meats, dark chocolate, licorice and exotic spices, and deft intengra-tion of oak. The tannins are considerable, but negotia-ble. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $49

92 B Cellars 2009 Blend 25 Cabernet Sau-vignon-Syrah (Napa Valley). An interesting

blend of fruit from both warm and cool areas, this wine is dry, tannic and complex with flavors of blackberries, currants, cured meats, black pepper and cedar. Good as it is now, it will continue to develop well over the next decade. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $62

92 Sean Thackrey NV Pleiades Old Vines XXIII (California). How many ways can you

say delicious? It’s impossible to exaggerate how appeal-ing this light-hearted wine is. It’s vibrant with candied raspberries, pomegranates, orange zest, vanilla, brown sugar and cinnamon spice flavors, yet finishes dry and clean. The blend includes Sangiovese, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $24

91 PharaohMoans 2010 Westside (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives this wine heady

heat. It’s like the Cognac equivalent of a California red wine—rich and dense with cherries, red currants, licorice, mocha, spices and sandalwood. Complex and addictively delicious, it’s made for drinking now. The blend is 92% Syrah and 8% Grenache. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $95

90 Falcone 2010 Annaté IV (Paso Robles). Falcone’s fourth release of this non-vintage

blend solidifies its placement as a fine, complex wine to drink over the next several years. Made from Syrah, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the soft-ness and richness of a Paso red, with flavors of black cherry jam, chocolate, roasted coconut and black pep-per. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

90 Sean Thackrey 2010 Rossi Vineyard Ori-on (St. Helena). This rich, layered red wine

is a bit jammy and assertive now, and will benefit from a couple years of cellaring to settle down. It’s forward and ripe with cherry and raspberry jam, mocha, roasted almond and cinnamon flavors. A little heavy and heady, yet strangely compelling, and certainly scores high on the deliciousness factor. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $90

89 Rock Wall 2011 Romancer-Heringer Vineyard (Clarksburg). An intriguing com-

bination of almost equal parts Malbec, Mourvèdre and

Petit Verdot, Rock Wall’s Romancer hails from Clarks-burg’s small Heringer Vineyard, and is bright, fruity and juicy with blackberry and strawberry flavors. Aromatic lavender and jasmine notes against a backdrop of meaty tobacco make the presence of Mourvedre apparent. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $30

89 Smashberry 2011 Red (Central Coast). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Andis 2010 Painted Fields (Amador County). Tasting of sweet baked plum and

raspberry, this Amador blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, 45% Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah is thick, rich and leathery and gets better in the glass. The Petite speaks loudly right now, but should integrate and on the finish, a trace of vanilla lingers for a long time. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

88 Elyse 2009 C’est Si Bon-Naggiar Vine-yard (Sierra Foothills). This is a mountain-

grown Rhône-inspired blend of Grenache, Mourvè-dre, Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise and Viognier that Na-pa-based Elyse produces every year. The 2009 is in-deed very good—savory with dark cherry and raspber-ry tones, and appropriately layered in leather, tar and earth. It’s a versatile wine that will pair with a range of poultry and pasta, too. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

88 Kidder Family Wines 2010 Duet (Lodi). A blend of 57% Graciano and 43% Tempranillo,

this rich, soft wine is layered with a tiny streak of ha-zelnut flavor intermingled among the spicy cherry and dense texture. A great wintertime wine, enjoy with meaty stews or game. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $24

88 PasoPort 2009 Vinho Tinto (Paso Ro-bles). This dark, dry, tannic wine is rich in

blackberries and cherries, with earthy notes of mush-rooms and herbs. It’s pretty tight and astringent now, but should soften over the next 5–6 years. The blend is Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional and Souzão. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

88 Star Angel by Montes 2008 Aurelio’s Se-lection (Paso Robles). This GSM blend is

soft and fruity, offering chocolate, blueberry and cherry jam, currant, sweet vanilla and smoky oak flavors. It has a nice complexity, but let it breathe for a while to mel-low. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $45

87 Clarksburg Wine Company 2010 Re-menance (Clarksburg). A blend of half Cab-

ernet Franc, a quarter Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Remenance has great aromas of baking spices and dried cherries and is satisfyingly full bodied, herbal and leathery. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

87 Folkway 2010 revelator (California). Rich in tannins, with a gritty mouthfeel, the ripeness

of this wine’s Bordeaux grape varieties gives it an instant likeability. Blended from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and

Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s ripe in cherries and red cur-rants. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

87 Herzog 2010 Special Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon-Zinfandel-Syrah (Califor-

nia). All three grape varieties in this blend offer their own special contribution. The result is balance —a dry, smoothly tannic wine with lots of upfront berry, spice, leather and sandalwood notes. Kosher. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

87 Horse & Plow 2011 Farmstead Red (North Coast). A satisfying and rustic red

blend of mostly Rhône grape varieties with 15% Zinfan-del thrown in for good measure. While tannic and dry, youthful blueberry and boysenberry flavors pop out on the palate followed by earth and leather. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 LXV 2010 Rising Tempo (Paso Robles). Made from Grenache, Syrah and Tempranillo,

this wine scores high on the ripeness scale with jammy raspberry and cherry flavors accented with vanilla and sweet bacon. Ready to drink now with umami-based fare like sausage, bacon or ham. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

87 Nottingham Cellars NV AlphaRed Lot III (Central Coast). Nottingham Cellars’ blend

of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah, all from the 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages, is an interesting experiment in blending and makes for a fine, earthy, brooding wine. With so much chewy cranberry-dominated flavor, this is a good food wine, especially for early spring fare. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

87 Star Angel by Montes 2008 Red Wine Rhône-style Red Blend (Paso Robles).

Soft, velvety and fruity, with chocolate, black raspber-ry, currant and oak flavors this blend is spiced up with white pepper and cinnamon notes. Drink this hearty wine with stews, barbecue or pasta. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $25

87 Windsor Oaks 2009 Super Tuscan (Chalk Hill). Made from Sangiovese and the classic

Bordeaux grape varieties, this is a lusciously ripe but ultimately simple wine. With jam, currant, vanilla and toast flavors, it’s nice for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

86 Andrew Murray 2011 Espérance G-S-M (Central Coast). A soft, easy wine for drink-

ing now. Based on Grenache, it has cherry pie, mocha, red currant and baking spice flavors. Versatile for pair-ing with a wide range of foods that call for a medium-bodied red. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $25

86 Cline 2010 Oakley Eighty-Two (Califor-nia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Frequency 2011 G-S-M (Central Coast). With so much juicy raspberry, mocha, spice and

sandalwood flavors, this is an easy wine to drink now.

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There may not be a better cheeseburger pairing in the world. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $32

86 Monte Volpe 2007 Primo Rosso (Men-docino County). A liquid tribute to old Men-

docino, this wine is a blend of mostly Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, with smaller proportions of Sangiovese, Carignane, Negromaro, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Syrah. Medium bodied with spicy black pepper, leather and stewed plum flavors, it would go perfectly well with burgers or pizza. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

86 Montoliva 2009 Sierra Bella-Chicago Park (Sierra Foothills). Montoliva’s Sierra

Bella is a blend of Sangiovese, Teroldego, Dolcetto and Barbera. It’s not quiet in tannins, but boasts layers of bright acidity and dark, mouth filling fruit flavors. Lim-ited in production but a good value. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

86 Philo Ridge NV Vino di Mendocino II (Mendocino County). A non vintage blend

of Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah, this wine captures attributes of each of those grapes. The nose is rich with scents of raspberries, delving slightly towards tart cher-ries. The finish enters Syrah territory, with earthy leath-er and spice. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

85 Orfila 2010 Full Fathom Five (San Pasqual). This Montepulciano-based blend of

Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon is chock full of dusty tannins, dried herbs and a savory red cranberry flavor. An interesting wine to try with risotto or pasta. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

85 The Crusher 2011 Sugar Beet Ranch (Clarksburg). A meaty and oaky red blend of

mostly Tempranillo (64%), with smaller amounts of Pe-tite Sirah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, The Crush-er sources grapes from a relatively cool area in Clarks-burg. Fruity with cinnamon layers, this wine would pair well with hamburgers or pizza. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

84 Andrew Murray NV This is Eleven Big Bottom (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a rustic

wine with sharp acidity and flavors of tobacco and sweet currants. Fine with everyday fare. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

84 LXV 2010 Crimson Jewel (Paso Robles). Heat from high alcohol gives the ripe raspberry,

currant and mocha flavors on this wine a chile pepper heat, as well as a glycerine richness. The blend is San-giovese and Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42

84 Posh NV Red (Napa Valley). This blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah is soft and ripe

with jammy raspberry and cherry flavors. Simple on its own, but pair it with a fabulous cheeseburger and en-joy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Monte De Oro 2008 Synergy 65 Estate Grown (Temecula Valley). Strongly aromatic

of black pepper, this blend of Syrah, Zinfandel, Caber-net Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc is herbal like Cab and slightly sour-sweet on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $33

80 Highland Hills Winery 2011 Lola (Ramo-na Valley). This blend of 75% Barbera and

25% Merlot smells and tastes of strawberries in dirt, a strange sensation for a wine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

80 Monte De Oro 2009 Cuvee de Oro (Tem-ecula Valley). A Rhône-style blend of mostly

Grenache and Mourvédre, with smaller amounts of Syr-ah and Cinsault, the wine is prune-like and overdone. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $25

OTHER RED WINES

92 Sheldon 2010 Ripken Vineyard Graciano (Lodi). For the second year in a row Sheldon

has turned out a lovely, spicy, highly unusual Graciano from Lodi’s diverse Ripken Vineyard. Give it time in the glass and be rewarded with peppery spice, bright al-most-sour red fruit (pomegranate and cranberry, most-ly). This wine is a master class in balance—mild in alco-hol yet bursting in flavor, acidity and personality. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $42

90 Andis 2011 Barbera (Amador County). Andis blends its Barbera with 15% Zinfandel

and 8% Grenache, making for a lively, bright and bal-anced bottling of delicious cherry and strawberry flavor with the oak expertly integrated. Drink now or hold it back 3–5 years. Either way, this magical wine will de-liver great flavor and texture. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Clendenen 2005 Nebbiolo (Santa Maria Valley). Tastes tannic and chewy, even at the

relatively advanced age of 7-plus years. There’s a sweet core of cherry fruit and grilled meat that’s delicious and savory, brightened by fine acidity. Charred oak notes add more nuances of grill and toast, suggesting pairing with the salty, umami richness of charred beef. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Lava Cap 2010 Barbera (El Dorado). Made from Lava Cap’s estate grapes, with small

amounts of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc, this is a bright, earthy Barbera. Rustic and juicy with mouth filling plum and blackberry pie flavors, it’s not shy, but entirely balanced, a treat for seekers of Califor-nia Barbera. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

89 Domaine Chandon 2011 Pinot Meunier (Carneros). Almost indistinguishable from a

Pinot Noir, this polished wine is light and silky and dry, with brisk acidity highlighting red cherry, red licorice, cola and mushroom flavors. Drink this fancy wine now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 Enotria 2009 Dolcetto (Mendocino). Greg Graziano boldly makes many, many cases of

hardly ever seen Dolcetto from Mendocino every year and this one’s worth his audacity. Akin to pie a la mode, it has layers of liqueur-like cherry and soft, rounded tan-nins, an easy drinking wine. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Frequency 2011 Camp 4 Vineyard Gre-nache (Santa Ynez Valley). An interesting

Grenache, soft and complex. There’s a red cherry candy and brown sugar flavor, spiced with cinnamon, vanilla and toast. The tannin-acid balance is just fine. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $38

87 Montoliva 2008 Aglianico (Sierra Foot-hills). Small pockets of Aglianico persist in the

Foothills with mostly good results. This wine upholds the effort in its boysenberry jam, vanilla and strong tan-nic structure. Heavy shouldered with a foundation of acidity, pair it with a steaming lamb roast encrusted in herbs. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

86 Phantom Rivers 2008 Mourvèdre (Santa Ynez Valley). Soft and a little dull, but tasty in

cherry, tobacco and spice flavors. The finish is hot with high alcohol, yet there’s a pleasant sweetness through-out. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $26

DESSERT WINES

86 Barra of Mendocino 2008 Bella Dolce Pe-tite Sirah (Mendocino). A big bottle of des-

sert wine, all from Petite Sirah grapes, that’s rich and soft and round, with Petite’s characteristic dusty flavors and a kick of chocolate on the finish. A dessert on its own, it would pair well with savory cheeses or some-thing nutty. —V.B. abv: 18.5% Price: $28

87 McFadden Vineyard 2011 Late Harvest Riesling (Potter Valley). A botrytis-blessed

Riesling with 10.2 residual sugar, this dessert wine is decadent in stone fruit and sweet honey, with balanced acidity and a long finish. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $24

WASHINGTON

CHARDONNAY

87 Waterbrook 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This is Chardonnay at its buttery best

with notes of toffee and sweet spices to complement the palate’s broad feel and generous tropical fruit flavors. A touch of Viognier provides a nice floral lift. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $12

85 Canoe Ridge 2011 The Expedition Char-donnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Wallulla

Vineyard provides the majority of the fruit for this Char-donnay. The lemon verbena and floral aromas and fla-


vors are dialed way down here, with full malolactic fer-mentation providing a creamy feel. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

85 Cloudlift Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (Co-lumbia Valley). Sourced from the Bacchus

vineyard, this is an oaky, buttery Chardonnay that’s fine for an every day quaffer. The oaky flavors quickly overtake fruit that is simple, clean, and apple flavored. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

84 Sagelands 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Light and tart, this Chardonnay has

notes of creamed corn, lemon grass, jasmine and lime. The Viognier (5%) added brings a floral accent to the flavors but the concentration seems wanting here and the finish a touch bitter. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

87 Blue Pirate 2011 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). With fruit sources split between Wal-

lula and Canyon Vineyard Ranch vineyards, this off-dry (3.6 g/L residual sugar), enjoyable Pinot Gris is medium bodied with notes of lime, pineapple and petroleum jel-ly. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Sockeye 2011 Pinot Grigio (Columbia Valley). This is an aromatic offering of Pinot

Grigio with generous notes of freshly cut red and green apple along with pear. Medium bodied, it drinks just a touch off dry with mouthwatering acidity and a real sense of freshness. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 Vin du Lac 2010 LEHM Pinot Gris (Lake Chelan). A stylistic offering of Pinot Gris with

notes of spice, marzipan and lees along with lemony, sharp-edged acids. Not for everyone, but has much to enjoy. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

RIESLING

88 Willow Crest 2011 Estate Grown Riesling (Yakima Valley). Hailing from the winery’s

Minnick Estate Vineyard, this is an aromatic Riesling with notes of orange peel, ripe peaches, and jasmine. While listed at less than 10 g/L residual sugar, it tastes a good bit sweeter, but the acid keeps the sugar in check. —S.S. abv: 10% Price: $14

86 Sagelands 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val-ley). A very lightly aromatic offering of Riesling

with notes of jasmine, nectarine and honey. Though it clocks in at 35 g/L residual sugar, it doesn’t seem near-ly this sweet, but still wants a bit more acid to lift the frame. —S.S. abv: 10% Price: $13

86 Vin du Lac 2010 LEHM Riesling (Lake Chelan). Sweet aromas of apple and peach

lead to a medium-bodied palate with abundant lemon

flavors. The residual sugar (4 g/L) plays nicely off the vibrant acids but the depth of flavors can’t quite match the acid’s intensity. —S.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $20

SAUVIGNON BLANC

88 Va Piano 2011 Brunos Blend Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). With 5% Riesling

in the blend, this bone-dry Sauv Blanc gains just a touch of roundness and spice. Clear, crisp flavors mix celery, gooseberry and tart melon fruit. It’s very fresh, almost delicate. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Vin du Lac 2010 LEHM Sauvignon Blanc (Lake Chelan). A very distinctive Sauvignon

Blanc with leesy notes of biscuit, spice and custard at the fore along with herbs and a spine of lemony acidity that runs from head to tail. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

CABERNET FRANC

91 Va Piano 2009 Estate Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla Valley). This is the first varietal-

ly-designated Cab Franc from Va Piano’s estate vine-yard. The blend includes 20% Merlot, and the fruit mix of both red and blue berries is delightful. Brown spices and a textural midpalate add to the pleasure. The finish carries appropriate hints of herb and stem. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

87 Cloudlift Cellars 2010 Ascent Cabernet Franc (Horse Heaven Hills). A food-friend-

ly Franc with notes of herbs, flowers, cherries, and light oak accents. Its cranberry-like tartness is matched by firm tannins. Give this wine a spot at the dinner table to see it at its best. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $24

86 Waterbrook 2010 Icon Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This varietal Cabernet

Franc comes from Blackrock Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The notes are light and high toned with dill, va-nilla, fresh herbs and dusty cherry. The 40% new Amer-ican oak drives much of the flavor as well as the tannins, which come off as a bit too aggressive. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

91 Va Piano 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co-lumbia Valley). For full review see page 7.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

90 Browne Family Vineyards 2009 Caber-net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Draw-

ing from prestigious vineyard sources that include Sev-en Hills, Pepper Bridge and Alder Ridge, this generous Cabernet is redolent with notes of cherry, cocoa, herbs and dusty spices. The broad, tart cherry flavors are sup-ported with a firm tannic structure that will keep this wine ageing nicely in the cellar for years to come. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $35

89 Manu Propria 2010 Red Willow Vine-yard Ex Animo Cabernet Sauvignon (Ya-

kima Valley). A well-made Cabernet, with additions of Merlot and Malbec contributing to the blend. It shows mixed herb and plenty of spice up front, with red berry fruits following. The tannins have been smoothed out a bit, but retain some texture and herbal highlights. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

88 Va Piano 2010 Brunos Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Columbia Valley). Though it’s 85%

Cabernet Sauvignon, this includes small amounts of four other Bordeaux grape varieties. Aged in 30% new French oak, it’s nicely detailed with dried herb, baking chocolate and a dash of cinnamon. Black cherry fruit anchors the core, and the impression is of an Old World style, with well-integrated herb and earth flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

88 Va Piano 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Walla Walla Valley). Picked a bit soon

due to an early freeze in 2009, this had plenty of sugar ripeness but lost a bit of the complexity that extra time on the vine can bring. Fruit forward with flavors of boy-senberry and some brown sugar, this is a wine to enjoy while it’s young and fresh. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

88 Waterbrook 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Waterbrook consistently

provides high-quality wines at affordable prices and this appealing Cabernet is just another example. Dark cher-ry, cocoa and barrel notes from a kiss of new American oak (19%) lead to a palate with broad cherry flavors and grainy tannins. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $12

86 Cloudlift Cellars 2010 Halcyon Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). A pleas-

ant Bordeaux-style blend, this has a light dusting of milk chocolate, along with ripe fruit flavors of berry. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $24

85 Sagelands 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This wine seems to show

some of the effects of the cool 2010 growing season, where ripeness and botrytis presented issues in some areas. Notes of tobacco, ash and orange peel surround a sweet cherry core accented by grainy tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Washington Hills 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Washington). This is a lightly aromat-

ic Cabernet with notes of dust, ash, plum, tobacco and herbs matched with sour cherry flavors and puckering tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

MERLOT

87 Waterbrook 2010 Merlot (Columbia Val-ley). This 100% varietal wine hails from Can-

yon Vineyard Ranch and Oasis vineyards. It’s tart and puckering with notes of cocoa, raspberries and licorice

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and a firm squeeze of tannins. Barrel notes of vanilla and dill linger on the finish. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $12

84 Sagelands 2010 Merlot (Columbia Val-ley). Very pale in color, this is a lightly aromatic

Merlot with notes of raspberry, cherry, ash and tobacco. The palate is tart with dry, chalky tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Washington Hills 2011 Merlot (Washing-ton). The cool 2011 growing season seems to

have presented a ripeness issue for this Merlot, which includes a healthy dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon along with Syrah and Cabernet Franc. It leans far into the green with notes of jalapeño, bell pepper and herbs backed by chalky tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

SYRAH

92 Va Piano 2009 Estate Syrah (Walla Wal-la Valley). Spice rules this pure, estate-grown

Syrah, which boasts a classic nose with streaks of com-post, cured meats and oolong tea. Though the stem and herb flavors are abundant, they are swaddled in ripe black fruits and highlighted with licorice and coffee grounds from 22 months in barrel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

90 Va Piano 2010 Estate Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Full bodied and fruity, the 2010 estate

Syrah from Va Piano is rounder and less herbal than the 2009. Which style you enjoy is a matter of individual preference. Big and approachable, with lovely blueber-ry fruit, the 2010 seems to stop a bit short, but with more bottle age may reveal details that are currently in hiding. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

89 Va Piano 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Half of the fruit was sourced from the outstand-

ing Lewis Vineyard, and the dense, dark, purple berry flavors are compelling. Highlights of black olive, smoke, and a bit of stem and earth add complexity. Give this one some breathing time, or cellar it for a few more years to soften the muscular tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

87 Two Vintners 2010 May’s Discovery Vine-yard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). A sin-

gle-vineyard Syrah from an up-and-coming vineyard, this wine is chock full of notes of coarsely ground black pepper along with celery salt, smoked meat, cherry and iron. The acid is tart and fresh with the tannins a touch dry on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

86 Washington Hills 2011 Syrah (Washing-ton). Varietally correct Syrah from Washington

can be difficult to find in this price range but this wine brings it with notes of blueberry, mesquite and vanilla along with a soft, subdued, citrusy feel. Finishes a touch ripe. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

RED BLENDS

92 Va Piano 2009 Estate Uniti Red (Walla Walla Valley). Only estate-grown grapes go

into this blend that’s one third each Cab Franc and Merlot, plus one third a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. It’s already drinking well, with super fruit concentration bringing raspberry, blueberry and cherry together in a wine finished with luscious chocolaty oak flavors. Smooth and forward, it gathers itself and focus-es through an engaging finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

90 Browne Family Vineyards 2009 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). Malbec makes

up nearly half of this distinctive Bordeaux-style blend along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver-dot. The broad cherry, raspberry and spice flavors have a restrained feel, backed by firm tannins that lead to a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

89 Alexandria Nicole 2009 Rock Star Red Destiny Ridge Vineyard (Horse Heav-

en Hills). Created jointly by a chef, a sommelier and a wine critic along with winemaker Jarrod Boyle, this appealing blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Counoise is loaded with rich, sweet cherry, blackberry and cola notes with a full-bodied, satiny mouthfeel and a linger-ing finish. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $42

87 Waterbrook 2010 Mélange Red Varietal Blend (Columbia Valley). This appropri-

ately named wine contains a mix of eight Bordeaux and Rhône grape varieties with no single grape making up so much as a quarter of the blend. Notes of cherry and tobacco meld with dry chocolate, ash and light herbal tones leading to a spice-filled finish. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Apex 2010 The Catalyst Red Blend (Co-lumbia Valley). Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon

and Merlot along with a dash of Malbec and Syrah, this red blend is on the lighter side of medium bodied with notes of tobacco, chocolate, cherry and fresh herbs. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

86 Cloudlift Cellars 2010 Panorama (Co-lumbia Valley). Soft and fruity, this tastes like

cherry candy, with a slight suggestion of burnt toast. It’s smooth and pleasant, a good everyday pizza red. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $25

86 Two Mountain NV Hidden Horse Red Blend No. 9 (Rattlesnake Hills). This non-

vintage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc plays on the leafy side of the spec-trum with abundant herb and green tea notes. It’s tart and grainy with a compact ball of cherry and cranberry flavors that finish a touch ripe. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

OTHER RED WINES

88 Apex 2010 Alder Ridge Vineyard Mourvè-dre (Horse Heaven Hills). This vineyard-

designated Mourvèdre is nearly 100% varietal with just a small splash of Syrah added. The grape’s white pepper, pomegranate and gamy character is on full display here, framed by the refreshing acidity of the vintage. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $40

87 Apex 2010 Alder Ridge Vineyard Gre-nache (Horse Heaven Hills). Quite dark in

color for an unblended Grenache, this wine is full of plum and ripe raspberries with the tartness of the 2010 vintage on display. The oak—half new French—plays a bit too prominently in the show on this otherwise enjoy-able wine. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $40

87 Waterbrook 2011 Malbec (Columbia Val-ley). Much of the Malbec coming out of Wash-

ington starts at nearly twice this price, making this wine from Waterbrook a good opportunity to see what the fuss is about without breaking the bank. This bottle hits the grape’s high notes with abundant aromas and flavors of white pepper, plum and herbs accented by soft tan-nins. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $12

DESSERT WINE

88 Waterbrook 2010 Late Harvest Semillon Ice Wine (Columbia Valley). This is a sin-

gle vineyard Semillon from Canyon Vineyard Ranch in the Yakima Valley. It’s über aromatic and flavorful with notes of orange peel, honey and citrus. The 170 g/L re-sidual sugar provides richness and the neutral French oak aging only adds to the wine’s viscous feel. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $15/375 ml

IDAHO

WHITE WINES

90 Sawtooth 2011 Riesling (Snake River Valley). Spicy and substantial, this authorita-

tive Riesling snaps into tight focus around apple and melon flavors. Hints of clove and ginger add complexity. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $11

88 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris (Snake River Valley). This bracing,

minerally Pinot Gris is perfect for hot weather; racy and crisp citrus rind and fresh grapefruit flavors abound. It’s made with organically grown grapes from the estate vineyard. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $15

87 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2011 Vivacious White Viognier-Roussanne (Snake River

Valley). Half Viognier and half Roussanne, this is in-deed vivacious. Tart and peppery, it marries an herbal component to bright apple and citrus notes, with a hint of orange rind. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $17


86 Sawtooth 2010 Chardonnay (Snake Riv-er Valley). This features clean, straightforward

apple-flavored fruit, a mix of both barrel fermented and tank fermented. The finish is lightly toasty and buttery, with a hint of warmth. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $11

84 Clearwater Canyon 2011 Lochsa (Idaho). This Chardonnay-Viognier-Riesling blend is

soft, simple and herbaceous. Good for sipping; the lem-ony flavor would work well with light fish. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $15

ROSÉ

88 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2011 Reserve Rosé (Snake River Valley). Reserve is rarely

a word found in front of rosé, but here it seems meaning-ful. The 82% Merlot and 18% Grenache complement each other nicely. Cherry-pie tartness with a bit of sweet blueberry flavor make for a full-bodied, round and bone dry rosé that’s substantial and delicious. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15

RED WINES

88 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2010 Reserve Syrah (Snake River Valley). Quite dark and

smoky, this fruity Syrah combines blueberry, blackberry and cassis flavors in a deep mix. Earthy tannins are well-managed and provide a proper underpinning. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $19

88 Sawtooth 2010 Skyline (Snake River Val-ley). Lushly fruited with blueberry, black cher-

ry and plum, this Idaho-sourced red blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of seven other grapes. Smooth and flavorful, it finishes with a dash of cocoa. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $11

87 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2009 Syrah (Snake River Valley). With 18% Mourvèdre

in the mix, this spicy Syrah takes cranberry and plum fruit flavors and broadens them out with well-managed tannins. Good penetration and balance. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Snake River Valley). How this

producer squeezes 15.6% alcohol levels out of its Cab-ernet is a fair question. Despite the implied concentra-tion, this hard and steely wine shows tight cassis fruit wrapped in smoky, coffee, barrel flavors. —P.G. abv: 15.6% Price: $22

83 Clearwater Canyon 2009 Cabernet Franc (Idaho). Thin and dilute, with tart red fruit and

green-inflected tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

83 Clearwater Canyon 2009 Renaissance Red (Idaho). A sweaty note to start, then this

turns into a plummy, tannic, astringent red with a hint of barrel toast. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

VIRGINIA

CHARDONNAY

82 Château Morrisette 2010 Chardonnay (Virginia). Feeble scents of tropical fruit and

rose petal mark the nose of this wine, which leads into the light- to medium-bodied palate that offers bright ac-ids, soft flavors and a delicate, tapering finish. —A.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $18

82 Doukénie 2010 Chardonnay (Virginia). This Chardonnay offers broad, subtle scents of

fresh oak and pear with a soft, fleshy palate. It finishes on a woody clove note. —A.H. abv: 14% Price: $25

SPARKLING WINE

91 Trump 2007 SP Reserve Brut (Monti-cello). For full review see page 7.

abv: 12% Price: $45

ROSÉS

84 Boxwood 2011 Rosé (Virginia). The apri-cot and peach-yogurt scents come across as a bit

soapy before the strawberry and sour cherry notes sur-face. The palate is supple and easygoing, and although it lacks some concentration, it tastes fresh and fruity. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $14

82 Breaux 2011 Rosé (Virginia). On first sniff, a sweaty note is perceived, but it quickly is sup-

pressed by the red cherry lozenge and macerated straw-berry scents. Light- to medium-bodied, this lacks vi-brancy and concentration on the midplate. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

82 Château Morrisette 2011 Dry Rosé (Vir-ginia). This is tutti-frutti in scent, with a pear

drop note that is loud and clear. It’s light to medium in body, lacking some focus and concentration. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $18

82 Rosemont 2011 Rosé (Virginia). A pickle- barrel aroma hits the nose first, before the notes

of red berries, rose petals and bitter papaya seeds sur-face. The wine feels soft initially, but the acids gain some lift on the midpalate. The papaya seed note be-comes more concentrated with time. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $16

82 Trump 2011 Rosé (Monticello). With its raisiny aroma that hits the nose first, this lacks

desirable freshness. On the light- to medium-bodied palate, a strawberry note surfaces, which leads into the short-lived finish. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $14

80 Stanburn 2011 Bull’s Blush Rosé (Virgin-ia). On the sweet side, this offers a soft texture,

a slightly bitter edge and a pruny fruit flavor. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $15

CABERNET FRANC

86 Attimo 2011 Aviator Reserve Cabernet Franc (Virginia). Notes of chocolate-covered

espresso bean and toffee swirl with aromas of red cher-ry, red currant and Indian spice. The palate is medium bodied, concentrated and fruity, and the light tannins make this an easy-drinking selection. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

86 Hume 2011 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). A pliant, lively wine to pair with roasted chicken

or grilled salmon, this bears a forward note of red cher-ry, plus touches of cassis, char, herb and vanilla that add dimension. It’s light to medium bodied, with fine, dusty tannins and fresh acids. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $23

86 Jefferson Vineyards NV Cabernet Franc (Monticello). Notes of strawberry and red

cherry surface on the nose, followed by touches of bees-wax, dill and exotic spice. This is a medium-bodied wine with enough tannins to lend structural support. The fin-ish bears delicate cinnamon and herbal-tea flavors that linger with some astringency. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Chatham Vineyards 2011 Church Creek Cabernet Franc (Virginia’s East-

ern Shore). This Cabernet Franc—with 10% Petit Verdot—has easygoing black-cherry and raspberry notes, plus mocha and turmeric subtleties. It has light, pliant tannins, while the medium to high amount of ac-ids keep the palate feeling energetic. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

82 Stanburn 2011 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). While the nose is overall a bit soapy, the aromas

of berry and banana are Gamay-like in character. The wine feels flat on entrance, but the acids pick up pace toward the midpalate. It finishes short, ending on a mo-cha note. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $16

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

85 Autumn Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Monticello). Dried strawberry, cocoa, legume

and savory spice notes weave together to comprise the bouquet. Medium in body, this has a soft entrance, but it gains tannic traction on the midpalate. A smoked rosemary flavor lingers on the finish. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Gray Ghost 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Virginia). Mint, dill and parsley notes

overlay the dark fruit aromas. The palate has a soft core, which is framed by medium-grained, slightly chunky tannins. The dill tone carries onto the palate, and it picks up dark cherry and turmeric accents. —A.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $40

82 Ingleside 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Virginia). The dominant dark-cherry

aroma smells bitter and high pitched. The palate feels

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supple and medium bodied, and it tastes a touch con-fected, like blackberry jelly used to fill donuts. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

RED BLENDS

89 Jefferson Vineyards 2009 Meritage (Vir-ginia). This blend offers brooding scents of as-

phalt, black fruit, vanilla and mocha. The texture of the palate is notable for its elegance and deceptive fullness. Penetrating notes of blueberry and dark chocolate lin-ger on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $30

88 Lovingston 2009 Estate Reserve Josie’s Knoll (Monticello). For full review see page

9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Trump 2008 Simply Red (Monticello). Comprised of 48% Merlot, 26% Cabernet

Franc, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, this has ripe, forward aromas of cherry and boysenberry, with nuances of potpourri, cocoa and Indian spice. The palate is concentrated and intense, and it packs astrin-gent, tongue-coating tannins that frame the supple core. The lasting finish ends on notes of cinnamon and graph-ite. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Barren Ridge 2009 Meritage (Virginia). A blend of 45% Petit Verdot, 35% Merlot, 15%

Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, this ex-udes dense aromas of charred chocolate, blackberry, leather and hickory. Full in body, it bears astringent, sinewy tannins, and it offers a finish that tastes of clove and blueberry skin. —A.H. abv: 11.5% Price: $32

87 Fox Meadow 2010 Le Renard Rouge (Vir-ginia). For full review see page 9.

abv: 12.5% Price: $34

87 Granite Heights 2008 Lomax Reserve Red (Virginia). Aged in American oak for ap-

proximately 11 months, this Bordeaux-style blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot is medium bodied and supple, with astrin-gency that kicks in on the midpalate. The acidity keeps the palate feeling lively, and the notes of blackberry, cas-sis, tobacco and mocha are stimulating. —A.H. abv: 12.6% Price: $20

87 Rappahannock Cellars 2010 Meritage (Virginia). Bold and intense on the nose, this

blend of 41% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cab-ernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot offers aromas of kirsch, blueberry and blackberry, plus accents of pastry dough, tobacco and brown spice. A spiced-plum note and succulent acids surface on the midplate, and drive the lengthy finish. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

87 Trump 2008 New World Red (Monticello). A veneer of vanilla gives this blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot a pastry-like scent, which coats the underlying note of

wild-berry pie filling. The palate offers bright acids and firm tannins, which layer the finish. —A.H. abv: NA Price: $28

86 Granite Heights 2009 Lomax Reserve Red (Virginia). This blend of 80% Caber-

net Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot was aged for 15 months in American and French oak. It shows a nice balance of earth, fruit and oak flavors in the form of turmeric, red flower, tobacco and black-berry notes. It feels lithe and medium bodied, and the acids gain momentum on the cherry-skin- and graphite-flavored finish. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $22

86 North Gate 2010 Meritage (Virginia). Scents of leather and turbinado sugar surface

on the nose first, which are offset by accents of black-berry, forest floor and pepper. The medium-to-full pal-ate feels supple and expansive, until the finish where the tannic muscle kicks in. Overall, the flavors are intense and juicy but come with an edge of prune. —A.H. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Rappahannock Cellars 2009 Meritage (Virginia). This offers an aromatic core of

blackberry, cherry and plum notes that are offset by tobacco, leather and brown-spice accents. A touch of prune surfaces on the lush, round palate, and the ac-ids stand out on the cherry-skin-flavored finish. —A.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

85 Fox Meadow 2009 Le Renard Rouge (Vir-ginia). A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and

Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers notes of dusty exotic spice and mint-chocolate, plus a red currant aroma that lurks in the backdrop. The tannins add just a touch of traction, and the acids veer high as the wine finishes on a subdued flavor of tobacco. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $32

84 Chatham Vineyards NV Church Creek Vintner’s Blend (Virginia’s Eastern

Shore). This wine comes with chewy tannins and supple acids. A char note surfaces on the palate of this medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and the fruit shows a slightly sweet edge. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

84 Gray Ghost 2010 Ranger Reserve (Vir-ginia). Light in aromatic intensity, this has sub-

tle notes of cherry skin and blue fruit. The palate show-cases a ton of structure, but the flavors seem mute in comparison, and the finish feels brittle. —A.H. abv: 12.7% Price: $30

NEW YORK

RIESLING

91 Anthony Road 2009 Martini Reinhardt Selection Riesling (Finger Lakes). Pene-

trating notes of melon, stone fruit and white florals set apart this lavish Riesling from Anthony Road. Semi-sweet in style with honeyed fruit flavors, it’s balanced by

bracing lime acidity and crushed-stone minerality that extends the finish. —A.I. abv: 8.9% Price: $30

90 Anthony Road 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Elegant peach and floral

tones on this off-dry Riesling build in complexity on the nose and palate, with layers of waxy lanolin and fresh green herbs. It’s forward and fruity, yet honed and bal-anced, with bright lemon-lime acidity. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $15

90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Reserve Ries-ling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page

8. abv: 10.5% Price: $25

90 Keuka Lake Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled Falling Man Vineyard

Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). A stand-out wine among Keuka Lake Vineyard’s many excellent Rieslings, the Falling Man is brisk with pineapple and grapefruit flavors accented by lime zest and a distinct crushed-stone minerality. While dry in style, it’s supple on the palate with a lingering mineral slick. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $30

90 Red Newt Cellars 2011 Circle Riesling (Finger Lakes). Exotic melon and pineapple

flavors are accented by hints of chalk and powdered sugar on this brisk yet penetrating Riesling. Light on its feet with a textural, almost feathery, mouthfeel, it’s an incredible steal at $12. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $12

90 Shaw 2008 Riesling (Finger Lakes). This late-release Riesling is texturally fascinating

with a rich, minerally palate bursting with white grape-fruit and waxy, floral flavors. Slightly off-dry in style, it’s deliciously creamy and slick with a lingering finish that’s kissed with caramelized sugar. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $17

90 Tierce 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Smoky mineral notes add a mysterious tone to

elegant stone fruit on the nose and palate of this dry, steely Riesling made collaboratively by three leading Finger Lakes wineries: Anthony Road, Fox Run and Red Newt. It’s focused, but has a supple fleshiness that’s both intense and enjoyable. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $30

89 Anthony Road 2011 Dry Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes). Invigorating scents of lime zest

and crisp apple introduce this nervy, dry Riesling. It’s brisk with lime acidity, but builds in weight and texture with hints of petrol and lanolin that linger on the pal-ate. —A.I. abv: 11.9% Price: $16

89 Anthony Road 2010 Art Series Riesling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of blossom and ripe

stone fruit lift savory apple aromas on this brisk, refresh-ingly dry Riesling. Lean and steely in style, it penetrates the palate with intense lime and lime-skin flavors that ripple long on the finish. —A.I. abv: 11.9% Price: $28


89 Heron Hill 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Exotically aromatic with notes of pine-

apple and quince, this is a dry, yet lavishly fruity wine. Vibrantly acidic, it’s balanced by notes of wax and petrol that linger in a rich, minerally slick. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14

89 Keuka Lake Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled Goldman Vineyard

Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Initial notes of savory apple become increasingly nuanced with aeration, ex-posing layers of blossom, pine and stone fruit. Dry on the palate with penetrating lime flavors, it’s refreshingly zippy to the finish. —A.I. abv: 11.7% Price: $20

89 Red Newt Cellars 2011 Dry Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes). While dainty in style, this refresh-

ing Riesling is chock full of white-grapefruit flavor ac-cented by a flurry of white florals, lime and lanolin. Concentrated but fresh, the palate bristles with striking acidity and minerality. —A.I. abv: 10.2% Price: $16

89 Red Newt Cellars 2011 Semi-Dry Ries-ling (Finger Lakes). Zesty lime and floral

notes accent penetrating grapefruit flavors on this deli-cate semidry Riesling. Zippy with acidity and brisk, wet-stone minerality, it’s a fabulous find that’s exceptionally easy on the wallet. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.1% Price: $14

89 Sheldrake Point 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Honeysuckle and violet notes add a

lavish touch to nervy pineapple and stone-fruit flavors in this light-bodied, but lushly textured, Riesling. Dry in style and intensely minerally. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $16

88 Keuka Lake Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled Evergreen Lek Vine-

yard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Like many of Keuka Lake Vineyard’s excellent Rieslings, the Ever-green Lek benefits from time spent in the glass, slowly opening in flavor and aroma. Initially a bit subdued with savory apple and nut tones, it builds in texture and com-plexity, revealing fascinating layers of lime, fresh herb and stone fruit. —A.I. abv: 11.4% Price: $20

87 Heron Hill 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes). Hints of nut oil and smoke lend a

savory tone to bright stone-fruit and floral notes on this delicate semidry Riesling. Brisk with lemon-lime acid-ity, it finishes long with a murmur of lanolin and honey comb. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

87 Heron Hill 2011 Semi-Sweet Riesling (Finger Lakes). Curious tones of red berry

and grapefruit mark this intensely fruit-forward, semi-sweet Riesling. It’s concentrated on the palate, but bal-anced with hints of smoky minerality and delicate dried herb notes. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

SAUVIGNON BLANC

89 Shaw 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Lakes). Striking minerality and hints of freshly

cut grass add briskness to this floral, peach-inflected wine. Dry in style, with a voluptuously supple palate, it’s remarkably languorous on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $19

CABERNET FRANC

89 Shaw 2007 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Fin-ger Lakes). Three years of barrel ageing lends

an intoxicating flair to this lushly textured Cabernet Franc. Rich vanilla and spice notes are unabashedly oaky, but the palate is concentrated with black cherry and cassis flavors, elegantly framed with brisk acidity and soft, velvety tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $35

87 Billsboro 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Hints of spice, dried herb and black

tea lend an elegant earthiness to concentrated, but crisp, black cherry and berry flavors on this Cabernet Franc. The palate is full bodied but structured with a flurry of soft tannins that linger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Heron Hill 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Hints of fresh herbs add depth to

bright red-cherry and strawberry notes on this brisk, re-freshing wine. Striking acidity and soft, delicate tannins draw out a long, cherry-menthol finish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Heron Hill 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Fresh, green herbs mingle

with notes of lavender and violet on this refreshingly crisp Reserve Cabernet Franc. The palate boasts pen-etrating sour cherry flavors framed with soft, mouthfill-ing tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $40

87 Ventosa 2009 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Ripe black plum and cherry notes are

accented with savory touches of olive and brine in this bold, full-bodied wine. Staunch, grippy tannins give it an angular, structured feel that persists through the long finish. —A.I. abv: 13.1% Price: $20

86 Hosmer Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Baking spice and toasted

wood add warmth to preserved black cherry and plum flavors in this bold, lushly textured Cabernet Franc. The tannins are quite soft, but the dense fruit profile gives it weight and body. —A.I. abv: 13.3% Price: $18

85 Fox Run 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Hints of coffee grinds and

fresh, green herbs add interesting dimension to con-centrated, ripe blackberry notes. Brisk yet angular, it’s firmly structured with bold, slightly jagged tannins that linger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $40

85 Montezuma 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Hints of spice and soy sauce highlight

lifted red cherry aromas on this full-bodied Cabernet Franc. The fruit is a bit lean, with slightly underripe red-fruit flavors, but it finishes brisk and clean. —A.I. abv: 13.4% Price: $18

85 Sheldrake Point 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Spice and herb notes add di-

mension to preserved red cherry and plum flavors in this dainty, medium-bodied Cabernet Franc. Delicately structured with restrained acidity and tannins, there’s a softness that makes it easy drinking. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $18

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

87 Atwater 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Fin-ger Lakes). There’s an abundance of crisp

black cherry and cassis flavors in this Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, but hints of green leaves and wet soil lend a dark, elegant tone. Quite supple and full on the palate, it fin-ishes long with staunch, grippy tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Glenora 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Fin-ger Lakes). Intensely ripe notes of black cher-

ry and violet are highlighted by hints of ceder and mint in this forward but refreshingly brisk Cab. Dry on the palate, it’s softly framed with a layer of fine, chalky tan-nins. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

87 Ventosa NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). Fresh green herbs and granite notes

add a lean, angular elegance to the concentrated black-cherry flavor in this wine. It’s bold in structure with pen-etrating tannins that linger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $25

86 Keuka Spring 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of toasted

wood and cardamom lend a warm, spicy tone to concen-trated black-fruit notes on this boldly tannic, structured Cab. Brisk acidity adds balance to fruit and body, high-lighting delicate herb notes on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $28

85 Knapp 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). Lifted black-cherry and floral aromas

highlight a palate that’s brisk with a briary, tart raspberry flavor. It’s dry and refreshing, with a delicately tannic structure. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

84 Brotherhood 2010 New York Premium Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (New

York). There’s a slightly baked quality to the ripe, red-cherry notes on this dry, full-bodied Cab. Hints of sa-vory dried herbs and chalky, mouthfilling tannins add dimension to the palate. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15

MERLOT

87 Six Mile Creek 2010 Merlot (Finger Lakes). Ripe red cherry and mint are enrobed

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in a velvety swathe of tannins in this bold, richly tex-tured Merlot. It’s muscular in style, but hints of miner-ality and bright acidity add elegance and balance. —A.I. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

85 Brotherhood 2010 New York Premium Selection Merlot (New York). Ripe, brambly

wood and plummy black-fruit flavors are concentrated in this dense, boldly structured Merlot, but shaded by tart green notes and staunch, grippy tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Keuka Spring 2010 Merlot (Finger Lakes). Bramble and savory herbs add a green,

earthy character to preserved black cherry and plum fla-vors in this dry, full-bodied Merlot. The tannins are pen-etrating, but velvety in structure, and extend long on the cherry-kissed finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $19

PINOT NOIR

89 Damiani 2010 Reserve Davis Vineyards Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). High-toned aro-

mas of cherry and red plum entice on this surprisingly robust Finger Lakes Pinot Noir. Concentrated flavors of cherry and wild strawberry are brambly and tart, with shades of granite that linger elegantly on the palate. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $47

89 Heron Hill 2009 Ingle Vineyard Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Strikingly aromatic of plums,

briar and menthol, this is a brisk, elegant Pinot Noir with concentrated but crisp red-fruit flavors. Tones of granite and penetrating, velvety tannins add structure and style. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Billsboro 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). High-toned aromas of cherry cola and berry

preserves are enticing on this concentrated, fruit-for-ward Pinot Noir. The palate is suppple with ripe cherry flavor, tinged with a spray of violets and firm, yet chalky, tannins. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Shaw 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Hints of smoke and vanilla add com-

plexity to notes of dried cherry and autumn leaves in this earthy, umami-rich Pinot Noir. Aged three years in barrel, this late-release wine is silken and rich on the palate with just a flurry of tannins on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30

88 Ventosa 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). The scents of ripe red berries and cassis are in-

viting on this nervy Pinot Noir. The palate is bright with red fruit marked with hints of wet stone and grippy, vel-vety tannins. Finishes with a fragrant spray of cherry blossoms. —A.I. abv: 12.9% Price: $22

87 Damiani 2010 Davis Vineyards Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). This is a bright, brisk wine

that’s chock full of crisp red-plum flavors and a sweet cherry-blossom perfume that lingers from start to finish.

Brisk acidity and loads of fresh, green herbal notes meld nicely with soft, but mouthfilling tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $29

86 Freedom Run 2010 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Niagara Escarpment). Whiffs of damp

soil and leather lend a rustic, earthy tone to dark cherry and briar notes on this Pinot Noir. The palate is lushly textured, with just a ruffle of delicate tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

86 Fulkerson 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). While the nose is ripe and plush with

sweet smelling red-cherry and strawberry aromas, this is a surprisingly brisk, light-footed Pinot Noir. The pal-ate is lean with crisp, briary red fruit and drying, slightly astringent tannins on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16

86 Hosmer Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Sweet smelling notes of cherry pie and

spice introduce this rich, concentrated Pinot Noir full of slightly ruddy redcherry and plum fruit. Vibrant acidity and soft tannins add backbone and composure. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

86 Wagner 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Sour cherry aromas meld with notes of

spice and briar on this bold, structured Pinot Noir. The palate boasts bright red-fruit notes with rustic hints of earth and brine, and a coating of grippy tannins that lin-ger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $28

85 Damiani 2010 Sunrise Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Preserved red-cherry

and strawberry notes penetrate throughout this ripe, full-bodied Pinot Noir. Bright acidity and hints of bram-bly wood, baking spice and florals on the palate add complexity and balance. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $29

RED BLENDS

89 Knapp 2011 Meritage (Finger Lakes). Aromas of violets and cherries are intoxicating

on this intensely concentrated yet elegant Bordeaux-style blend. Dry in style with hints of crushed granite and spice, it’s balanced with spritely acidity and a ruffle of soft, delicate tannins. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $23

88 Glenora 2011 Meritage (Finger Lakes). Fleshy and ripe, with concentrated cherry and

strawberry flavors, Glenora’s Meritage is unabashedly juicy, but balanced with nervy acidity and a flurry of soft, fine-grained tannins. Dry and full bodied, it fin-ishes long with a hint of dried herbs and spice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Hector Wine Company 2010 Essence Ta-ble Wine (Seneca Lake). Fruity and forward

with ripe blackberry and cherry flavors, this Merlot- based blend is balanced with savory layers of dried herb and crushed granite minerality. Vibrant acidity and soft but penetrating tannins extend on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.75% Price: $25

87 Keuka Spring 2010 Miller’s Cove Red (Finger Lakes). There’s a whiff of menthol on

the nose of this red blend that brings levity to the rich, preserved black-cherry flavor on the palate. It’s a dry, medium-bodied wine with firm, mouthfilling tannins and hints of vanilla and spice that linger. —A.I. abv: 12.3% Price: $22

87 Peconic Bay Winery 2010 Lot #3 (North Fork of Long Island). Dark floral and black-

berry notes are flecked with hints of granite and brine on this robust Bordeaux-style blend. The palate is vo-luptuously supple with soft, chalky tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.7% Price: $24

87 Six Mile Creek 2010 Quintessence (New York). Blackberry, briar and savory herb notes

point to the preponderance of Cabernet Franc in this round, but elegantly balanced Bordeaux-style blend. It’s rich and ripe on the palate with a frame of velvety tan-nins that extend long on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

86 Stony Lonesome NV Estate Reserve Cab-ernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Finger Lakes).

Ripe sour cherry notes are tart but intensely fruity in this light-bodied, vibrantly acidic blend. Gentle, velvety tannins frame a crisp, refreshing finish. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $26

85 Silver Thread 2011 Blackbird (Finger Lakes). Leafy, brambly notes are prominent

against a backdrop of lean red-cherry flavors on this tart, Cabernet Franc-dominant blend. It’s a vibrantly acidic but delicately structured wine with soft, rippling tannins on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

84 Standing Stone NV Smokehouse Red (Finger Lakes). Crisp cherry fruit and cedar

notes are flecked with hints of tomato leaf and spice in this dry, vibrantly acidic Cab blend. It’s brisk and clean on the palate, with a frame of gentle tannins on the fin-ish. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $14


95 Cazul 100 Tequila Añejo Reserva (Mexi-co; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). Luscious and bright, this Tequila offers ripe banana and baked pear flavors, with a piquant and peppery finish. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $40

95 Partida Elegante Extra Añejo Tequila (Mexico; Partida Tequila, Manhasset, NY).

This super-smooth, limited-edition Tequila is aged up to 40 months in American oak. Bright, with a rich golden color, there is an initial flurry of black pepper, sprightly jalapeño and vanilla notes that settle into a warm, mel-low crème brûlée groove. Lovely gift-worthy packaging includes a black leather strap tied around the neck of the hefty bottle, plus a crystal decanter stopper.abv: 40% Price: $350

93 Gran Dovejo Añejo (Mexico; Mendez Imports, Dixon, CA). Inside the attractive

squared bottle, the aromas and flavors of this highlands Tequila tend toward honey, with light touches of tropi-cal fruit, jalapeño and a fleeting floral note on the elon-gated, rounded finish.abv: 40% Price: $55

93 Luna Nueva Tequila Añejo (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For full review

see page 9. abv: 40% Price: $45

92 Calende Tequila Añejo (Mexico; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY).

On the nose and palate, this pale gold Tequila features sweet, creamy vanilla perked up with jalapeño, black pepper and bell pepper. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $28

92 Don Weber Añejo (Mexico; Pamela Smith, Pasadena, CA). This zesty little number has a

bright, pale straw hue. Bell pepper and jalapeño flavors meld seamlessly with sweet agave, finishing with pretty vanilla and violet notes. Aged 18 months. abv: 40% Price: $47

92 Tapatio Tequila Añejo (Mexico; Domaine Charbay, St. Helena, CA). This 75-year-old

brand, from the same distillery that also makes El Tes-oro, has finally arrived in the U.S. The añejo expression has a pale straw color and distinctly sweet vanilla and juicy pear notes, tinged with bell pepper and jalapeño, and a bit of cinnamon sizzle.abv: 40% Price: $33/1L

91 Don Sergio Añejo (Mexico; Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Pop

open this añejo and you’ll be treated to rich vanilla aro-matics. On the palate, look for more vanilla, mixed with bananas and cream. At first, this Tequila has a velvety feel, but there is a bit of a drying effect into the finish. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $25

90 Don Julio 70 Añejo Claro (Mexico; Dia-geo Americas, Norwalk, CT). Billed as the

world’s first white añejo, it indeed has an unusual clear appearance, hence the name “claro.” Created to cele-brate Don Julio’s 70th anniversary, this limited edition bottling, aged for 18 months, has powerful charred oak, honey and vanilla notes, and a banana-like finish. abv: 40% Price: $70

90 Dos Armadillos Tequila Añejo (Mexico; Fourcade and Hecht Wine Selections,

Huntington Beach, CA). You can’t help but notice the tactile nature of the hefty, rounded bottle with its raised pattern—like an armadillo’s—and braided rope

coiled around the neck. The Tequila inside is golden, with a vanilla and coconut scent. The flavor is surpris-ingly herbaceous at first, both grassy and peppery, but fades into buttery vanilla tones.abv: 40% Price: $75

89 Dulce Vida Organic Tequila Añejo (Mexi-co; Dulce Vida Spirits, Austin, TX). This is

a unique, certified organic, small-batch Tequila with a distinct whiskey-like presence due to a full 24 months of aging in former Bourbon barrels. Look for a golden color and rich honey notes with a bit of peppery sting. The assertive alcohol can’t be ignored (it’s 100 proof, af-ter all), but it fades into pleasingly mellow agave notes. abv: 50% Price: $49

88 Don Weber Extra Añejo (Mexico; Pamela Smith, Pasadena, CA). Double distilled and

aged for a full three years, this golden extra añejo mixes honey, pepper and herbal notes, winding into a peppy menthol finish. abv: 40% Price: $60

OTHER TEQUILAS AND AGAVE-BASED SPIRITS

96 Casa Dragones Tequila Joven Sipping Tequila (Mexico; MHW Ltd., Manhasset,

NY). Although billed as a joven, this Tequila is blended with a touch of añejo. The end result is extraordinarily smooth, with a very sweet, fruity, almost wine-like nose but a bold, pure peppery flavor that finishes cleanly. The packaging is gift-worthy, presenting the bottle in a gold-and-robin’s egg blue box, like a precious jewel. abv: 40% Price: $275

94 Paqui Silvera Tequila (Mexico; Tequila Holdings, Pasadena, CA). Wine yeast is

used in the fermentation of this blanco Tequila. Hard to say if that’s the reason for its lovely and complex fla-vors, spanning lemon and grapefruit, vanilla and zingy pepper, plus an unexpected mineral-like note, but this bright, smooth Tequila is still a beauty. A top pick for Paloma cocktails. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $40

94 Vida Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Vida Imports, Manhasset, NY). This pale gold

reposado will spruce up margaritas and other cock-tails. It’s sweet, smooth and honeyed, with just the right amount of jalapeño tingle and a hint of creamy citrus on the exit. The packaging is luxe-looking too, white with light blue, with an attractive squared bottle inside. abv: 40% Price: $55

90 OniliKan Aguardiente de Agave Azul (Mexico; Creo Commercium, Phoenix,

AZ). Distilled from agave, this clear spirit has a lush, sweet, pleasing agave fragrance and flavor. The fin-ish is smooth, bracing and lightly peppery, like good Tequila —but because it’s not produced in Jalisco, it can’t be called Tequila.abv: 40% Price: $35

89 Piedra Azul Blanco (Mexico; Underdog Wine & Spirits, Livermore, CA). Great for

salty dog cocktails or sangritas, this blanco Tequila is

As this month’s feature about Cinco de Mayo Tequila illustrates, there’s so much more to Tequila than just margaritas.

Consider the growing ranks of añejo Tequi-la. In order to be called añejo (aged), the aga-ve-based spirit needs to be aged for longer than a year. That said, most producers go the extra mile: you’ll see that most of the Tequilas re-viewed below matured in oak barrels anywhere from 18 months to as long as three years.

Although some producers seem to discour-age mixing añejos—and indeed many are fine enough to enjoy alone as sipping Tequilas—it’s not a hard-and-fast taboo. Just like other brown spirits, such as whiskey or aged rum, aged Tequi-la works beautifully in cocktails, too.

For example, try any of the Tequilas below in

an añejo old-fashioned: a generous pour of añe-jo Tequila, sweetened with a touch of agave nec-tar, spiced with a dash of Angostura bitters, and dressed up with as much fruity garnish (orange slices, cherries, lemon peel) as you can bear. Supposedly, the añejo old-fashioned originat-ed with Los Angeles-area bartenders a couple of years back, but it’s surely propagated across state lines, to the point where some might con-sider it a new classic.

And remember, if you don’t see your favorite Tequila listed below, don’t dispair: it might have been previously reviewed, so be sure to check out our complete database at buyingguide.winemag.com to see how your favorite stacks up against this month’s batch or for more selections worth discovering. —Kara newMan

SPIRITS

AGE AND BEAUTY: AÑEJO TEQUILA

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crisp and clear, with a bright agave and vanilla scent. On the palate, touches of jalapeño and vanilla appear, mixed with bold peppery notes and a gentle floral finish.abv: 40% Price: $19

87 OniliKan Aguardiente de Mango (Mexico; Creo Commercium, Phoenix, AZ). Dis-

tilled from mango, this clear aguardiente, or “firewater,” has a light mango scent and a super-light, teasing mix of fruity, briny and peppery notes. abv: 40% Price: $35


LAGERS

90 Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbräu Dunkel Dark Bavarian Lager (Munich Dunkel La-

ger; Riedenburger Brauhaus, Germany). This is a delicious and organic dark lager. It pours a rich mahog-any color and opens with clean notes of toasted malt, roasted peanut shell, light coffee and a hint of caramel. The palate is smooth and crisp, with medium carbon-ation and just a touch of bitterness that flashes through to the finish alongside nutty accents. Balanced and very drinkable; an ideal partner for wienerschnitzel or mild cheeses.abv: 5% Price: $4/500 ml

89 Pinkus Certified Organic Ur-Pils (German Pilsener; Pinkus-Müller Brewery, Germa-

ny). This USDA-Certified Organic pils from the world’s first organic brewery pours a slightly hazy, pale yellow-straw color with a thick white head that shows good retention. Pale-malt aromas are upfront on the nose, with secondary scents of earthy spice, hay and light cit-rus. Grainy flavors lead the palate, followed by notes of bready yeast and herbal hops. It’s well carbonated, which balances out the slightly round texture, and fin-ishes dry and clean, with a light bitter accent on the end. abv: 5.2% Price: $4/500 ml

89 Samuel Smith’s Pure Brewed Organ-ic Lager Beer (Euro Pale Lager; Samu-

el Smith’s Old Brewery [Tadcaster], England). Samuel Smith’s beers are all well-made examples of traditional styles, and this organic “pure” lager is just another testament to that. It’s classic and clean, with a bright gold color that looks like lager perfection. The nose offers light scents of fresh grain, pale malt, biscuit, grass and a touch of honey. Those notes continue on to the palate, but marry with richer notes of spicy, herbal hops and bready yeast. Medium carbonation and a clean finish make this one easy-drinking beer.abv: 5% Price: $4/550 ml

88 Hangar 24 Craft Brewery Helles Lager (Helles Lager; Hangar 24 Craft Brewery,

CA). This is a light and easygoing lager that’s a great session selection. It’s bright and clean, with fresh notes of cereal grain, sweet malt, light citrus and earthy hop on the nose and in the mouth. The moderate carbon-ation keeps the medium-weight mouthfeel vibrant and refreshing, ending with a crisp finish laced with just a hint of bitterness. Available in 12-ounce cans. abv: 4.3% Price: $19/12 oz 12 pack

SAISONS

88 21st Amendment Sneak Attack Saison (Saison/Farmhouse Ale; 21st Amend-

ment Brewery, CA). This saison is aggressively spicy, with forward notes of cardamom, pepper, yeast and clove-spiked lemon peel. Hints of herbal hops, grass, biscuit and faint banana also appear on the nose, and carry through to the medium-weight palate where the citrus flavor becomes more pronounced. High carbon-ation helps to keep the mouthfeel crisp and lively, fol-lowed by a drying spiciness that lingers long on the fin-ish. A unique, spice-laden interpretation of the classic farmhouse style.abv: 6.2% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

88 Green Flash Saison Diego Ale Brewed With Spices (Saison/Farmhouse Ale;

Green Flash Brewing Co., CA). This is an unfil-tered saison brewed with Seville orange peels, Chinese ginger and grains of paradise. It’s light and approach-able, with soft spice and yeasty notes that marry harmo-niously with the citrus and sweet-grain core. A touch of green fruit (think apple and fig) adds lift to the palate, but the subtlety of the palate really allows all of the spicy nuances to shine. Clean and crisp on the close, this is re-freshing and easy drinking.abv: 4.2% Price: $14/12 oz 4 pack

86 Shiner FM 966 Farmhouse Ale (Saison/Farmhouse Ale; Spoetzl Brewery, TX).

Shiner’s second foray into ales is this approachable farmhouse ale named after the farm-to-market road just south of where the brewery is located. It’s highly carbonated and quite quaffable, with light notes of pale malt, banana and barely ripe tropical fruits. Crisp and refreshing with a light body and brisk finish, this is a great session beer for summer.abv: 5.7% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

BROWN ALES

87 Full Sail Limited Edition Brown FS Pub Series Nut Brown Ale (American Brown

Ale; Full Sail Brewing, OR). This nut brown ale isn’t shy, with bold aromas and flavors coupled with a me-dium-full, creamy mouthfeel. Forward scents of roast-ed walnuts, brown sugar, toasted bread and dark fruits abound on the nose, and the palate boasts similar fla-vors coupled with additional accents of earthy hops and sweet spice. A bitter edge adds texture and length to the finish. Try this with aged, nutty cheeses for a match made in heaven.abv: 6.0% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

84 Barrel Trolley Nut Brown Ale With Natural Hazelnut Flavor No. 4 (American Brown

Ale; World Brews, NY). This ale leads with upfront aromas of hazelnut, toffee and sweet caramel malt. The palate offers more of those same notes, but milder than anticipated, lifted by brisk carbonation and a light mouthfeel. The finish is clean but fleeting. abv: 5.3% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack

S omehow, sometime during the recent beer boom, many folks decided that if a beer didn’t hit you over the head with

insanely intense aromas and flavors, it wasn’t any good.

It’s time to reevaluate this position and con-sider that beauty can be found in balance. The truth is, not every beer you enjoy has to be a flavor bomb.

Especially now, when it’s not quite warm enough for straightforward light and refreshing beers but no longer cool enough for heavy bar-ley wines or imperial stouts. It’s a time when we seek substance but might want to have more than one bottle of our favorite selection. There are plenty of good style options to see you through this awkward phase, including la-gers and saisons.

With light esters and aromas and an overall mellow palate that’s crisper in character than their ale brethren, lagers are often misinter-preted as boring, simple or basic. While they may not have as many overt aromas and flavors as ales, lagers can still be complex, layered and nuanced. Some of the highly rated selections below are perfect examples.

Lagers are also quite varied in style. They

are not just “lawnmower” beers—pale yel-low in color and good for sessions only. Lagers range from German Pilsners to robust Vienna or amber lagers and even roasty black lagers (also known as schwarzbier) and bocks. What-ever subcategory they fall in, lagers are gener-ally crisp and clean.

Saison, the French word for season, was tra-ditionally brewed in the autumn or winter for consumption by farm workers in late summer during the harvest season. While the flavor pro-file, color, alcohol and conditioning of the brews can vary, traditionally the beer was quite rus-tic, with the addition of a significant amount of hops and spices, moderate abv (between 5 –8%) and some degree of bottle conditioning. The Belgian yeast strain typically used provides a distinct foundation, while flavors of wild organ-isms, especially Brettanomyces, may be pres-ent, depending on the individual brewery’s style and preferred outcome, as well as location.

And, just in case that wasn’t enough, we’ve included a couple of brown ale reviews to round the mixed case out. These are the heartiest of the bunch here, so if you’re looking for a malty core and roasty flavors, those are for you.

Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

BEER

A MIXED CASE FOR SPRING

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