bosnia & hercegovina - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/europe-6-bosnia... · 2013....
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Bosnia & Hercegovina HIGHLIGHTS Sarajevo Explore the vibrant cafe-filled heart of this very ‘human’ capital ( p137 ) Mostar Survey the picturesque Ottoman old town from the iconic bridge ( p144 ) Adrenalin overload Raft from Foča ( p147 ), go canyoning beyond historic Jajce ( p143 ), ski
at Jahorina ( p139 ) or quad-bike at Bjelašnica ( p139 ) Off-the-beaten track Trailblaze the ‘alternative route’ to Dubrovnik from Mostar or Sara-
jevo via Trebinje ( p146 )
Undiscovered Bosnia and Hercegovina (BiH) is a land of seemingly endless mountains etched with canyons whose rivers provide world-class rafting. Around fascinating Sarajevo Olympic-quality slopes offer some of Europe’s best-value skiing. Lively cafes fill Ottoman-era old town and add to the super-quaint atmosphere of Mostar, one of Eastern Europe’s delights. Though there are some post-Soviet monstrosities, the majority of Bosnian towns are lovably small affairs wrapped around medieval castle ruins. A few lingering scars remain from the heartbreaking societal haemorrhag-ing of the ’90s but BiH has largely regained its once-famed religious tolerance. Rebuilt churches, mosques and synagogues once again huddle together, rekindling an intriguing East-meets-West atmosphere born of Bosnia’s fascinating Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian histories. BiH offers a great sense of discovery, of real personal interaction and of very fair value-for-money that’s all too rare in 21st-century Europe. Many visitors stay longer than they’d planned.
© Lonely Planet Publications
FAST FACTS
Area 51,129 sq km
Budget 65KM per day
Capital Sarajevo
Country code %387
Famous for Mostar’s Stari Most, Franz Ferdinand’s 1914 assassination, U2’s ‘Miss Sarajevo’
Languages Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian
Money convertible mark (KM); A$1 = 1.08KM; C$1 = 1.23KM; €1 = 1.95KM; ¥100 = 1.54KM; NZ$1 = 0.85KM; UK£1 = 2.20KM; US$1 = 1.45KM
Phrases zdravo (hello), doviđenja (see you later), molim (please), hvala (thanks)
Population 4.59 million
Visas no visa needed for citizens of the EU, Australia, New Zealand, the US and Canada; see p148
TRAVEL HINTS
Try BiH’s under-appreciated wines (www.wineroute.ba), especially Hercegovina’s rich red Blatina. Some restaurants’ domaći (house) wine costs only 12KM per litre carafe.
ROAMING BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA
Visit Mostar then Sarajevo from coastal Croatia, cross to Jajce and consider summer rafting between there and Banja Luka.
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l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m B O S N I A & H E R C E G O V I N A • • H i s t o r y
HISTORY Ancient Illyrians, followed by Romans from AD 9 and Slavs from the late 6th century were Bosnia’s early arrivals. The medi-eval Bosnian kingdom had its own rather mysterious Christian Church and reached several cultural zeniths between 1180 and 1463. Thereafter the area was absorbed by the Turkish Ottoman Empire. Islam rapidly became the predominant religion of Bosnia’s elite, though much of the peasantry remained Christian.
After 1878, BiH became controlled by pre-dominantly Catholic Austria-Hungary. This alienated Muslim Bosniaks and Orthodox Serbs, and in 1914 a Bosnian Serb assas-sinated Austria-Hungary’s imperial heir,
Franz Ferdinand, in Sarajevo. This ultimately ignited WWI, which killed an astonishing 15% of the Bosnian population. Postwar BiH joined proto-Yugoslavia and in WWII its mountains were the scene of numerous battles between Nazi occupiers and Tito’s Communist Partizans.
In 1991 BiH’s Croats and Bosniaks united to declare independence from Serb-dominated Yugoslavia. In reply Bosnian-Serb nation-alists started seizing territory and ‘ethnic cleansing’ Muslims from the north and east. By 1992 a three-way war was raging between Serbs, Croats and Bosniaks. Atrocities were committed by all sides. Most infamously, Croats senselessly destroyed Mostar’s Old Bridge while Bosnian Serbs besieged Sarajevo
RadimljaNecropolis
Batrovci
Trbusnica
Ljubovija
Kotroman
Gorica-VinjaniDonji
Tara Canyon
Š™epan
BronzaniMajdan
Slavi™kaOmarska
Lamovita
Podmiladøje
Jahorina(1913m)Bjelašnica
(2067m)
BobotovKuk
(2523m)
ŠolkaBraø
Hvar
Korøula
Mt Magliø(2387m)
Hutovo BlatoWetlands
Mljet NP
PlitviceLakes
NP
KozaraNP
Durmitor NP
BijambarskCaves
Visoko
Tito'sCave
Vlašiø
Øitluk
Jajce
Bugojno
Kupres
Jablanica
Poøitelj
BlagajMe‹ugorje
Neum
Ploøe
Pale Višegrad
Orašje
Vodice
Primošten
SolinImotski
Makarska
Brela
Omiš
Supetar
Bol
Stari GradHvar
Vis
Vela LukaKorøula
Orebi™
Sobra
Cavtat
Kotor
Gracac
Vel Kladuša
Otok
NovskaHrvatskaKostajnica
Bosanska Dubica Davor
Mrkonjic-Grad
Kljuø
BosanskiPetrovac
Bosansko Grahovo
Glamoø
KotorVaroš
Vareš
Banovi™i
Kladanj
Modriøa
Drvar
Sanski Most
Tomina
Maglaj
Fojnica
Tomislav Grad
Šuica
Letka
PosušjeŠirokiBrijeg
Nevesinje
Stolac
Bile™a
Olovo
Ivanica
Rogatica
Š™epan Polje
Sitnica
BosnanskaRaøa
Ður‹evicaTara
Æabljak
Mojkovac
ErdevikŠvarmac
Srebrenik
Gradaøac
Tešanj
BosanskaKostajnica
Cazin
OtokaBosanska
Novi Grad(Bosanski Novi)
Kostela
Klokot
OrlijaniGolubi™
Sokolac
ŠtrcaøkiBuk
Kulen-Vakuf
Jezero
Švipovo
Podrašnica
Karanovac
Krupa
Prusac Lisac
DonjiVakuf
RostovoSte™ci
Vranduk
Bratunac
MokraGora
RudaUstipraøa
River
Tjentište
Zavala
Ravno KoteziLjubinje
DaorsonArchaeologicalPark
RotimljaLjubuški
Umoljani
KraljevaSutjeska
Gunja
MtVeleÅ
Smajki™i(PodveleÅ)
Bara™i Pogar
Lukomir
Glavatiøevo
Kozarac
Trebinje
HercegNovi
Pljevlja
Metkovi™
NovaGradiška
DakovoBaøka
Palanka
Prijedor
Sinj
Derventa
Loznica
Sabac
Zvornik
Priboj
BosanskaKrupa
ŠidÆupanjaBosanska
Gradiška
GoraÅde
Foøa
Konjic
Vlasenica
Srebrenica
Gacko
Knin
Livno
Æepøe
IlidÅa
Strizivojna-Vrpolje
Šabi™i
Mostar
Zenica
Tuzla
Cetinje
Nikši™
Dubrovnik
VinkovciVukovar
Biha™
Šibenik
Doboj
Brøko
Bijeljina
Travnik
SremskaMitrovica
KakanjBobovac
Split
Banja Luka
Podgorica
SlavonskiBrod
Sarajevo
KraviceWaterfalls
GomionicaMonastery
SrebrenikCastle
Eko-Centar
ZelenkovacEco-village
Dobrun
TvrdošMonastery
Øapljina
Sutjeska NP
GuøaGora
ADRIATIC SEA
BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINA
SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
CROATIA
CROATIA
ALBANIA
CROATIA
OstroÅac
PlivaLakes
Tara
Lonja
Kanal
Tolisa
Luko
vacSpreca
Cotina
Trebišnjica
Una
River
River
River
Riv
er
Sava
Vrba
s
Bos
na
Drina
River
Nere tva
River
Riv
erSa
na
River
Rive
r
M17
M17
E73
E761
E761
E661
E661
M17
M19.3
M18
NoviTravnik
M20
M6
BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA 0 80 km0 40 miles
135
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