3. BODY OF WORK

Catherine McAleer

(MCA07207870)

c.mcaleer1@fashion.arts.ac.uk

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Table ofContents

Trends 5 - 13

Autumn/Winter 2012/13

The Collection 15

Inspiration

Concept Board 16 - 17

Mood Boards 18 - 23

Colour Board 24 - 25

Materials and textures 26 - 27

Hardware and details 28 - 29

Development

Last Development 30 - 31

Heel Development 32 - 33

3D Scanning and Rapid Prototyping 34 - 37

Experimentation 38 - 61

Initial Designs

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Catherine McAleer will, every season be subtly influenced by fashion trends. Although it is not one of the

more important aspects for the consumer, it is essential to recognize the importance of seasonal influences

and of to be aware of developments in the luxury footwear market. The following pages offer a snapshot of

the Autumn Winter 2012-13 trends which CMAs collection will incorporate and feature in the designs.

Autumn/Winter 2012/13Trends

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3D  Textural  Effects  

3D Textural Effects

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Encrusted

Exquisite stones, and crystals, precious golden

treads built up, adorning products, will be a high-

light of Autumn Winter 2013. Embellished items

are not just limited to evening gowns, as elegant

versions of bling will be found on jackets, day-

dresses and accessories. CMA will embrace the

combination of encrusting items to create 3D

textural effects through the use of goldwork

embroidery.

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Stitchwork Detail

Fine, handmade-looking stitches created by

embroidery machines is evident in the Fall trends

for 2013. Floral stitches with gold metallic threads

are a strong feature which CMA will display in the

collection.

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BotanicalInfluences

‘Natural beauty is on show as one of

the key motif directions of the season.

Traditional symbols of femininity are

combined with natural science.

Flowers, leaves and plants are depicted

in a range of different styles from

kitsch and romantic to stylised

illustrations.

Techniques vary greatly from

embossed and enamelled to moulded

and mesh-covered.’ (WGSN)

The first collection by CMA will be

heavily influenced by the texture,

shapes and the curvature of leaves

and other botanical items. This will be

linked with inspiration from the

Baroque era.

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Materials and Hardware

There is a strong focus on

metal hardware which has

an antiqued affect giving

products a masculine feel.

Tightly linked chains and

woven metal elements are

integrated with leather

taking inspiration from

ancient crafts.

Contrast materials create

a new winter look with a

craft feel. Gold is a very

prominent choice for

Autumn/Winter 2013.

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The first collection released by Catherine McAleer, will hold a deep memory of the past, which

has been thrust into the future. This Autumn/Winter 2013 women’s footwear collection will

combine traditional Irish craftsmanship techniques, for example goldwork embroidery, with new

3D rapid prototyping technology. Much emphasis will be placed on the quality and the tech-

niques used within the making of the products.

The theme of the designs will be inspired by the juxtaposition of ideas.

~ Technology and tradition

~ Baroque and Romanticism

~ Hard and soft furnishings

~ Old and new

~ Feminine and Masculine

~ Antique and Modern

TheCollection

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Handmade

Craftsmanship

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Technology

3D Rapid Prototyping

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BAROQUE & ROLL

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Footwear with attitude: powerful baroque features will

show through in the designs for this collection. The heels

will be the prominent features inspired by the baroque

era. Hoping to marry these characters with a simple yet

structured silhouette to create eye-catching stunning

pieces with a modern twist.

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Masculine & Feminine

Much inspiration from mens footwear styles will show through in CMAs first

collection with the use of strong sculptural shapes. Feminine touches of

colour and delicate stitching will balance the collaboration of both

elements. Alexander Mc Queen uses this technique in his work by

marring masculine and feminine with utilitarian hardware and soft

pink leather respectively to create a unique and unusual piece.

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Fashion of the 1940s and the beauty and elegance

of great Hollywood actresses will inspire the

overall mood of the collection. Combining the

Sophia Loren’s sexiness with the tailored masculine

style which Marlene Dietrich exuded, to create a

feminine but powerful range.

Old Hollywood Glamour

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Pantone 548c Pantone 5757c

Pantone 533c

Pantone 506Pantone Black c

Pantone 1815ce Pantone 871cPantone 4625

Emotional colours

Textural

Romantic edge

Striking contrasts

Metallic tones

Luxurious luminosity

Winter darks

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Materials andTextures

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Hardware and

Details

Brass detailing and hardware will be used

throughout the collection giving an over-

all antique look to the range. The Baroque

theme will follow through in each of the

designs. Careful consideration will need to

be put into the placement of these details

as too much may be too busy and in turn

cheapen the overall look of the shoes.

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Last Development

The images below are an example of a pair of lasts

available from Springline Ltd. The tow shape is sculpted

but has a soft edge to it. The images on the page

opposite are work in progress, which will take inspiration

from the last shapes below. Milliput has been applied

and will be sanded down to a more appropriate shape.

Leather will have to be lasted over the toe as a test to

ensure the upper will sit in the right position.

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Original last shape Last built up with Milliput

Last is to be sanded down to reflect simular

shape to those on the previous page.

Toe Shape

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Heel Development

These brass pieces were sourced from a vintage market

and were originally decorative furniture parts. The pieces

have been manipulated slightly to fit the curvature of

the chosen lasts for this project. By heating them up and

hammering them gently they became more flexible, but

because of the density of brass too much movement and

the pieces would snap. It was decided to look at other op-

tions to create the desired shape and effect.

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3D SCANner

The camera to the left is taking multiple photos of the brass piece as it spins on the plate beneath it. This is

first step before beginning the rapid prototyping process.

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Once the image is scanned in and imported to Rhino 3D computer program the brass can then be shaped

and details defined. Different tools are used to carve and sculpt the piece.

It can be seen in the left hand screen shot that the right hand side of the heel has been defined more than the

left. A close up can be viewed in the screen shot to the right.

Once this process is finished it can then be printed in 3D using the rapid prototype machine.

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The 5” last which will be used for this project, was imported into Rhino using a 3D Scanner. This was then

placed into the brass heel file so that the pitch could be obtained. From this, a plate for the heel can be

developed, which has room for screws to go through it so that the heel can be attached and it is wearable.

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As it is an expensive process to produce a the 3D rapid prototyped heel for this project, an alternative

solution has been formed. The original brass pieces will be applied with Milliput to fill out any cracks or

imperfections, it will also be used to build on and strengthen the shaft of the heels. First a sole board was

made and attached to the last, secondly some leather, of approximate equal thickness to that of what I

will actually use for the final piece, was attached to the back of the last. As Milliput hardens within hours a

sample was made from plasterzine to see what the plate would look like. The results above are shown. This

will take more work and experimentation in term two.