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BLOOMERS
MARIA MEIRA
Lights and Shadows
Apart from the absence of light, shadow is
also the shape a body makes on a surface
when it comes between that surface and a
light source. Despite usually been presented
as a dark reflection of what it represents,
shadows don't always come from a shape
identical to their own. The creative process
is revealed by the quest for possible shapes
behind a projection; this generates the
assumptions through which it develops,
translating an ambiguous vision of a
universe where light and shadow become
one and turn into a pictorial representation
of themselves.
Contactos
i. by.mariameira
t. 914866676
RITA SÁ
Still sun
Starting point – Luanda, Angola, the land in earth shades. A place where music, colours
and humidity come together overpoweringly. There, where
winters are warm and smiles come easily.
The inspiration came from a series of memories preserved in
photos of children dancing a never-ending dance on the street
and who smile whenever they see a camera. Explosive
mixtures of parts of different universes result in random,
uncoordinated combinations.
Indifference in relation to clothing, which metaphorically
speaking represents indifference to other aspects of daily life,
when seen by somebody who “comes from afar” inevitably
transforms the entire concept they have about what is, or
isn't, a priority.
Strongly influenced by sportswear, this collection explores
different clothing references, coming to life in the contrasts
between materials, colours and finishes, like in the clothes
divided between right way around and inside out, a reflection
of a relaxed, carefree state of mind.
There's always a glimpse of a bare foot, which shows that
shoes aren't always put on properly. Sometimes they get in
the way of the dance.
i. ritasa.brand
f. ritasa.brand
t. 960 302 377
UNFLOWER
The Intimate Love
Lucian Freud portrayed Celia Paul on canvas with great emotional power, insistently
and cold-heartedly for her vulnerability. After Freud died, Celia Paul told her own
story. Covered in paint, in a flat he'd bought, she developed layers of affection and
revenge, transferring them to the canvas.
The collection is inspire by these dynamics - strength and weakness -, alternating serge
and leather parts overlaid on tight, structured knits, patched with overlapping stitching
and seams, and satin showing frailty and the romantic involvement.
Patches and tie-dye prints on the knits depict Celia's work. These prints, inspired by
Jonathan Lasker's work aesthetic, present a fun, colourful approach, with shapes and
ideas of full/empty spaces.
The message comes to us subtly, inspired not only by the graphics of the prints, but
also by the way they appear throughout the collection - broken, yet strong, almost like
patches of visual information, so characteristic of the UNFLOWER universe.
Contactos
i. unflowerbrand
f. unflowerbrand
t. 915215921 / 912734474
ARIEV
X Lo Siento
Pain of not being able to breathe that air you have always breathed, the lack of
strength to resist the fear of fighting to stay, the most intense farewell and the
farewell that has always accompanied you. There is a void that sometimes when it is
happening, the pain that your chest feels for 25 seconds until you stop feeling yes, stop
feeling everything.
plus the moments it takes for information to circulate from the heart to the brain and
from the brain to the lungs, yes they are dying, you feel the body fleeing or arriving
depends on the point of view.
feel a paradigmatic reality where you can feel that you are someone else but in truth
you are just the visit of a soul that let you experience the sensation of dying, but rather
feel all that, unconsciously you are watching your body being invaded and taken by
someone who came to test you to feel what you felt in the 25 minutes until the dead
body was completely dead.
I know I didn't say goodbye...
i. @_arieiv_
t. 910860226
Carolina Sobral
Shift
Inspired by timeless pieces and a work wear approach, this
collection is designed to create a “complete wardrobe” for the
modern day woman. It consists of classic, casual and versatile
lines, reflecting the creativity and the confidence of the
modern day woman. Colours such as beige, green and black
predominate, with touches of blue and yellow standing out.
While keeping to the aesthetics of label, “SHIFT” intends to
present a functional, practical collection for sophisticated,
contemporary women.
Contactos
i. _carolinasobral
f. carolinasobral.cs
t. 916 462 122
João Sousa
Bellamira FW20
Sometimes it´s hard to tell someone how much we like them, much more difficult if
the person is a relative. This collection is a tribute to my grandmother Belmira, the
name “Bellamira” analogy is Bella (because I was raised with her and we always play
fantasy and all of that imaginary things) and Mira (the name that I call her). It’s a
collection that represents all of her struggles in
life, the breast cancer and the loss of her left
breast, and both legs because of the diabetes. The
fabric manipulation and the asymmetries
symbolize theobstacles that rise when no one is
expecting. The choice of the fabrics was based on
the choices that my grandmother pick to the
Sunday church moment and to do the garments to
my mom. The sparkle and the design was inspired
in her pomposity and vanity. This collection
presents a fight between the light and the dark,
with the mote “after rain there´s always sun” that
reveals that if we believe all the struggles can be
beaten and life can shine again.
i. joaosousabrand
f. joaosousabrand
t. 916 075 043
0.9 VÍRUS
Dissemination
A person dives into a crystalline sea and then
emerges and sees a dark stain blocking the
communication of light and heat.
Inspired by water, a finite resource - a terrible waste
of the source of being - and the ability of molten
magma to recover. Man as the one responsible for
the changes in what surrounds us and in ourselves.
Molten magma, its ability to make soil fertile - Nature
motivated to recover. A possible change in the
direction of sustainability and raising awareness in
individuals.
The clothing, with different shapes and silhouettes,
gives the collection a relaxed, youthful look. Of note
are the layers that depict ripples referring to fluidity,
the ephemeral and fading away. Structure through
cuts - the interaction of Man. Use of mainly organic and recyclable materials - terry
cloth, serge and denim in black and shades of blue, alluding to the power and
exuberance of the resources. Black prints that distinguish the oil ripples on the
crystalline water.
i. 0.9virus
t. 911 068 97
CONCURSO BLOOM
Kensal
HÍBRIDOS
Híbridos tells the story of an unrelenting love
between two tribes - the Nyaneka Humbi and the
Punk. Both appear as primary references, giving
way to manifestations of a new being. In itself,
HÍBRIDOS is made of opposites; separated from
any unique style, although retaining small DNA
traces - from the classic to street wear. This
materialisation is seen in several contrasts in raw
materials, textures, lengths and volumes and
monochrome aesthetic details.
Contactos
i. kllaukenzo
t. 964222043
RITA IBS
ARCANA
ARCANA is inspired by the “The High Priestess”, the 2nd Major Arcane in Tarot. It
refers to the esoteric, the unknown, which has intrigued mankind since time
immemorial - female intuition. A serene, confident female figure is portrayed, with
the moon at her feet (symbol of fear and
insecurity) and a book in her hands (symbol of
knowledge and wisdom). She is someone who
sees all but reveals nothing. She represents the
balance between opposing forces through the
presence of two pillars: one black (with the letter
B for Boaz) and one white (with the letter J for
Jachin).
ARCANA was created from the balance of
contrasts: Feminine/Masculine;
Aesthetics/Comfort; Rationality/Intuition;
Wealth/Neediness. Unique items made from
quality materials, with contemporary lines and
shapes that are balanced between the organic
and the architectural.
It is the awakening of the feminine, mystic side.
t. 916 627 704
MARIA CARLOS BAPTISTA
ARQUÉTIPO
The ‘Arquétipo’ collection features the subversion of
dress codes through a new proposal for coordination
(other than its primary function). It enhances men's
clothing worn by women.
It redefines new essentials in wardrobes in a new
dimension between what is private and intimate, by
collecting layers associated with encapsulation.
In this case, the idea is to create a balance in the male
world, breathing new life into classics. Generating
harmony through oppositions and an intermediary
space of possibility and availability, or materiality
through accumulation.
The proportions are changed, creating exaggerated sizes
that contrast with tight, clinging layers; all of these
factors are exaggerated through the colours and the
materials used.
Contactos
i. mariacarlosbaptista
t. 916329653
AHCOR
Hibérbole FW2020/21
A consensus is yet to be reached.
Being less, or more, or even different from the parameters imposed by society is yet to
be accepted in full.
The concept of being free (or “the idea of”) in the true sense of the expression seems
to be unreachable. Make-up, the type, colour and size of clothing, body changes,
religious and political beliefs and sexual orientation are a constant reason for social
condemnation.
Hipérbole is the name of the FW20 collection that goes beyond conventions. It comes
as a criticism of a minority of society that lives with prejudice.
Is it utopian to wish for a world free of stigma?
Or is it utopian to wish for full acceptance?.
i. ahcor_lab
t. 918737959
MARCELO ALMISCARADO
Pasmo
Pasmo begins with Helena da Presa, my
grandmother, who, when decorating
the house with wild flowers on Easter
Sunday, ends up innocently removing
them from their natural environment.
The starting point is taking natural
elements out of context, the focus is
aimed at specific elements, which
appear associated with manual
production techniques such as
traditional weaving, knitting and
crochet. At the same time, retro-
futuristic perspectives are explored,
the presence of aliens as an element
outside the norm and the reaction of
human beings to their unknown
presence. Paradoxically, religious
references are put into practice,
particularly the robes of Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Clare in “Cântico das
Criaturas” by Miguel Gomes.
The word Pasmo (“astonishment”) refers to the poem “O meu olhar é nítido como um
girassol” by Alberto Caeiro, and is used to describe the author's feelings about the
natural elements he discovers in a continuous, larger than life process.
Contactos
i. marceloalmiscarado
t. 916441590
HUARTE
AFTERLOVE
Afterlove, the name of a dark decadent
looking, barely ornamented place and
with lots of smoke in the air located
downtown. A place where you breathe
nostalgia and where people from earlier
centuries started interacting with each
other in fun ways. Smiling and having
fun while dancing to the rhythm of the
music played by the DJ at the back of the
room.
Little by little, the hours go by, the room
begins to brighten and the neon lights
define how guests look like.
Contactos
t. 34 677 448 005
LUIS BISANTI
This collection comes from the internal
quest for the time when I began designing.
A stage that began with a family project
involving my sister and me.
This time had such an effect on me that I
soon decided that my first collection
would have to include references to when
I was first involved in design and the
relationship that grew with my family after
that.
This collection presents an absolutely
idyllic figure of a winner and includes
extravagant and abstract elements.
Femininity is of prime importance; it is the
genesis of the creation of the clothes that
represent women.
In this collection, I tell a story where the
characters live on exaggeration,
eccentricity, clothing styles and the way
they dress. They form a subculture of
different values. It's a fantasy that takes us to a different world. A world where the
exaggerated is celebrated, where there is no fear of extremes.
t. 968 965 517
VAA BARROS
TXABETA
Fall/winter 20/21 collection. A
collection that takes us to the history of Cape Verde and its
people, a history of violence marked by slavery and rape.
Notwithstanding this past, Cape Verdeans are humble people
with amazing joie-de-vivre. The silhouettes, the volumes and
the mixtures of patterns were inspired by traditional clothing
in Cape Verde.
Some of the items contain “panu di terra”, a fabric that is
considered to be national heritage in Cape Verde. The prints
in different shades represent the mixtures featured in the
Cape Verdean people and the faces of those who did much
for their country and are a deserved homage to the country.
t. 960211307
b. behance.net/vaniabarros
PFN WINNERS
ANA CAMPOS
Trash Refuse is a manifesto. A project that is inspired by maritime pollution and
intends to raise awareness of this situation. The forms obtained through floating
elements visible in the aquatic environment, result in overlaps structured by folds,
asymmetric layers that define the structures. Chromatically, the shapes are segmented
into blocks of colour, in contrast to the interior, creating the desirable visual
discomfort and allowing a macro view of the colour spots existing on the "floating
islands".
F. 913105135
DIOGO VAN der SANDT
Coulter Sound of Colour
The Collection began with the exploration, review and deconstruction of the abstract
work of Jack Coulter. In the collection, each look is created with an individual painting
as a reference, trying to recreate the technique as well as the finishing of the
materials. The shapes for the collection are created by sketching and draping, but not
forgetting rhythm of the paintings, the flow of the paint, the texture of the materials,
as well the colours used.
The paintings are created in fabric with a mixture of white glue, silicone and pigment,
this mixture is applied to the fabric and by appling heat in different ways it’s able to
create different textures.
[email protected] I 912 112 268
MARIA GAUDÊNCIO
This "materica" collection emphasizes a sophisticated, elegant, con?dent silhouette
with relaxed, comfortable and easily manipulated pieces. "Materica” due to the search
for the characteristics of each material, its details, potential qualities/ defects, and its
usual use was fundamental to free the creative process. The material predominates
and de?ne this ?rst collection. This is a collection of numerous materials with textures,
shades, colors, and contrasts, in intentional contrast to the formal simplicity
"naturally" adaptable to a silhouette.
915846892 I [email protected]