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When you raise the lid on a pot of good biriyani, the Indianequivalent of arroz con pollo or paella, the smell should beguileyou: chicken, butter and spices should dominate, followed by thesubtle aroma of basmati rice. You might even smell the salt.

his is one of the world!s great dishes, and yet in restaurants itis often underspiced and made without care. I was served aparticularly memorable version in "ew #elhi at a restaurant known for

its steamed dishes. he restaurant used clay pots and sealed the lidswith dough. While I am sure that both of these features helpedmatters along, neither is practical for the home cook.

"onetheless, I was determined to recreate the dish. If the biriyanibelow is not the equivalent of the one served in India, it isfragrant, delicious and hard to stop eating.

he dish must be made carefully, but it is not difficult. hechicken is not browned, which actually makes it easier than manysimilar preparations. $ne key is to use butter, not oil or margarine%I am sure the ultimate biriyani has more butter than this version&and good spices: cardamom in the pod, whole cloves, a cinnamon stickand real saffron. %It is red and costs about '() an ounce, but is

worth it.& *ood coarse salt does not hurt either, and the better thechicken, the happier you will be when you bite into it.

It is also important to leave the lid on as much as possible. I amnot one who believes that rice must be cooked undisturbed, but inthis instance you want to make sure the chicken cooks fairly quicklyand that the aroma remains in the pot. he goal, remember, is tosmell everything

+hicken iriyani---------------- tablespoons butter/ large onion, chopped+oarse salt and ground black pepper

/ large pinch saffron/0 whole cardamom pods) cloves/ %(1inch& cinnamon stick/ tablespoon minced fresh ginger/ /23 cups basmati rice( cups chicken stock/ %(1 to 1pound& chicken, cut up and trimmed of e4cess fat5 skinremoved if desired/2 cup slivered blanched almonds, optional

/. 6ut 3 tablespoons butter in a deep skillet or casserole that canbe covered. urn heat to medium1high. 7dd onion and some salt andpepper. +ook, stirring occasionally, until onion softens, ) to /0minutes. 7dd spices, and cook, stirring, another minute.

3. 7dd rice, and cook, stirring, until ingredients are well combined,3 or ( minutes. 7dd stock, chicken and more salt and pepper, andbring to a boil. +over and simmer.

(. +ook undisturbed for about 3) minutes. When chicken and rice aretender and liquid is absorbed, turn heat off. If either chicken orrice is not quite done, add no more than /23 cup boiling water,and cook until done.

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. 8elt remaining butter in a small skillet over medium heat. 7ddalmonds %or simply melt butter&, and brown lightly. 6our mi4tureover biriyani, and sprinkle with a bit more salt. 9et rest 3 or (minutes. ake pot to table, and serve.

"ote: +ardamom seeds can be eaten, but cloves should be removedafter cooking.

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