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Bhutan

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown

#_

Eastern Bhutanp146Central Bhutan

p120Western Bhutanp76

Thimphup50

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Bhutan . . . . . 4

Bhutan Map . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Bhutan’s Top 17 . . . . . . . . . .8

Need To Know . . . . . . . . . .18

If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Month by Month . . . . . . . 23

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Booking Your Trip . . . . . . 35

Planning Your Trek . . . . . 39

Regions at a Glance . . . . .47PA

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WESTERN BHUTAN . . . . . . . . . . . 76Paro Dzongkhag . . . . . . . 77Paro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Upper Paro Valley . . . . . . . . 89Southeast of Paro . . . . . . . 94Paro to Thimphu . . . . . . . . . 94Haa Dzongkhag . . . . . . . . 96Paro to Haa Via Cheli La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Haa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Haa to Chhuzom . . . . . . . . 99

THIMPHU . . . . . . . . . . 50Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 62Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 68Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 68Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Around Thimphu . . . . . . . 72North of Thimphu . . . . . . . 72South of Thimphu . . . . . . . 75

ON THE ROAD

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Contents

Punakha Dzongkhag . . . 100Thimphu to Punakha . . . . 100Punakha & Khuruthang . . . . . . . . . . . . 103The Upper Punakha Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Wangdue Phodrang Dzongkhag . . . . . . . . . . . 108Punakha to Wangdue Phodrang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Wangdue Phodrang . . . . . 109Wangdue Phodrang to Pele La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Phobjikha Valley . . . . . . . . .111Chhukha Dzongkhag . . .115Thimphu to Phuentsholing . . . . . . . . . . 115

Phuentsholing . . . . . . . . . . .117

CENTRAL BHUTAN . . . . . . . . . . 120Trongsa Dzongkhag . . . 122Pele La to Trongsa . . . . . . 122Trongsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Bumthang Dzongkhag . . . . . . . . . . . 126Trongsa to Jakar . . . . . . . . 126Jakar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Chokhor Valley . . . . . . . . . 134Tang Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Jakar to the Ura Valley . . . 142Southern Dzongkhags . . . . . . . . . . 143Trongsa to Zhemgang . . . 143Zhemgang to Gelephu . . . 144Gelephu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Royal Manas National Park . . . . . . . . . . 145 EASTERN BHUTAN . . . . . . . . . . . 146Mongar Dzongkhag . . . 148Jakar to Mongar . . . . . . . . 148

Mongar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Lhuentse Dzongkhag . . 152Mongar to Lhuentse . . . . 152Lhuentse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Trashigang Dzongkhag . . . . . . . . . . . 155Trashigang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Trashigang to Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . 159Trashi Yangtse Dzongkhag . . . . . . . . . . . .161Gom Kora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Trashi Yangtse . . . . . . . . . . 162Samdrup Jongkhar Dzongkhag . . . . . . . . . . . 164Trashigang to Samdrup Jongkhar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Samdrup Jongkhar . . . . . 166 TREKS . . . . . . . . . . . 168Trek Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Health & Safety . . . . . . . . .171Druk Path Trek . . . . . . . . . 172Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Bumdrak Trek . . . . . . . . . . 176Saga La Trek . . . . . . . . . . . 178Jhomolhari Trek . . . . . . . . 179Jhomolhari Loop (Soi Yaksa) Trek . . . . . . . . 185Laya–Gasa Trek . . . . . . . . 186Snowman Trek . . . . . . . . . 191Bumthang Cultural Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Duer Hot Springs Trek . . . 197Rodang La Trek . . . . . . . . . 199Nabji Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Merak–Sakteng Trek . . . .203

Bhutan Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208

The Bhutanese Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . .231

Buddhism in Bhutan . . . 239

Traditional Arts . . . . . . . 249

Architecture . . . . . . . . . 256

Mountains & Valleys . . . 263

Wildlife & Sanctuaries . . . . . . . . . . 268

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 276

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 288

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 301

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .319

SPECIAL FEATURESPlanning Your Trek . . . . . 39

Buddhism in Bhutan . . . 239

Architecture Illustrations . . . . . . . . . 257

National Parks & Protected Areas Map . . . . . . . . . . . 270

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

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Paro

Punakha Dzong

INDIA

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Cheri & TangoGoembas

#•TamchhogLhakhang

#•Dochu La

#•Chimi Lhakhang#•TaktshangGoemba

A Long Weekend in Paro & Thimphu

If you have limited time or money, you can get a good impression of Bhutan in just four days by concentrating on Thimphu and Paro.

Count on two full days in picturesque Paro, visiting Paro Dzong and the National Museum. On the second day, hike up to the dramatic Tiger’s Nest, Taktshang Goemba, and visit lovely Kyichu Lhakhang. After lunch, make the three-hour drive to Thimphu, stopping at the charming Tamchhog Lhakhang en route.

On day three you could squeeze in a long day trip over the Dochu La to Punakha Dzong, the most beautiful dzong in the country. In March, budget an hour to walk through the colourful rhododendron forests above Dochu La. On the way back to Thim-phu, pop into the nearby Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the ‘Divine Madman’.

Day four is in Thimphu. Go to the weekend market and visit Cheri Goemba or Tan-go Goemba in the upper Thimphu valley. If handicrafts are your thing, hit the National Textile Museum and National Institute for Zorig Chusum. Late in the afternoon, drive back to Paro; most flights depart early in the morning.

4 DAYS

27©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

If you’re thinking about a four-day trip, consider a seven-day trip. It’s not that much more money and, really, when are you next going to be in Bhutan? A week gives you more time to get a feel for Bhutanese culture and enables you to get off the beaten track in either the Haa or Phobjikha valleys, while still seeing the major dzongs and monaster-ies of western Bhutan.

Figure on two full days in Paro, including visits to Taktshang Goemba and Kyichu Lhakhang in the Paro valley, and a full day (or two) in Thimphu. A few tips: try to be in Thimphu on a Saturday or Sunday to see the weekend market and avoid Paro on Monday, when the National Museum is closed. If you’re lucky, you may be able to catch a weekend archery tournament in Thimphu or Paro.

To get off the beaten track, add on an overnight trip to the Haa valley, on the road that links Paro to Thimphu. The road goes over the highest driveable pass in Bhutan, the Cheli La, and it’s worth a short detour to visit Kila Nunnery or Dzongdrakha Goemba. Arrive in Haa at lunchtime, and spend an afternoon, and maybe the next morning, ex-ploring the Juneydrak Hermitage and Shelkar Drak, before continuing on to Thimphu.

With the extra days you can definitely add an overnight trip over the mountains to Punakha. This way you’ll have time to make the 1½-hour return hike to the nearby Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, as well as visit Chimi Lhakhang, and maybe even a short rafting trip.

If you don’t visit Haa, you might be able to add on a day trip to the Phobjikha valley, especially worthwhile in winter (November to February) when the valley’s black-necked cranes are roosting. Bring some warm clothes and a torch (flashlight).

At some point during your trip, ask your guide to arrange a Bhutanese hot-stone bath, available in most tourist hotels (for a charge). Throw in a festival and you have the per-fect introductory visit to Bhutan.

7 DAYS

CHINA(TIBET)

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PhobjikhaValley

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Khamsum YuelleyNamgyal Chorten

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Top: Bhutanese prayer wheel

Bottom: Punakha Dzong (p104)

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A 10-day itinerary should just about allow you two or three days in Bumthang, with over-night stops in Paro, Thimphu and Punakha and a quick stop in Trongsa. But a full two weeks will let you see the same places in more depth, at a more relaxed pace, with time for a couple of day hikes.

If you are travelling before 2018, check with your agent to see whether the current roadworks will slow you down.

Follow the four-day itinerary for your first days. From Thimphu, a night in the Phob-jikha valley will give you a chance to see Gangte Goemba and also view the rare and endangered black-necked cranes (November to February). Phobjikha is a great place to explore by mountain bike.

From Phobjikha, it’s a day’s drive over the Pele La to the superb dzong and museum at Trongsa and on to Jakar in Bumthang. Leave early, as there’s lots to see en route, including the Nepali-style Chendebji Chorten, which is a perfect place for a picnic.

If you have two full days in Bumthang, spend one day doing a loop in the Chokhor val-ley, taking in the Jampey Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang and walking to Tamshing Goemba. Your second day here should be spent exploring the Tang valley, visiting Membartsho (Burning Lake) and the interesting Ogyen Chholing Museum near Mesithang. If you have an extra day, overnight in the Ogyen Chholing Guest House and hike down to the road via the remote rural chapels of Choejam Lhakhang and Narut (Pelphug) Lhakhang.

The Bumthang valley is a great place for some hiking, so budget half a day to stretch your legs after a week’s driving. From Jakar, it’s a two-day drive back to Paro, so spend a night near Wangdue Phodrang. Alternatively, save some time by flying from Bumthang to Paro.

If you intend to visit India in conjunction with Bhutan, consider driving from Thim-phu or Paro to Phuentsholing instead of flying, which will add a day to the itinerary. From here you are only a few hours from Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Sikkim, as well as the airport at Bagdogra, which has frequent flights to Delhi and Kolkata (Calcutta).

2 WEEKS

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It takes at least two weeks to make a trip out to the little-visited far east and we’d sug-gest throwing in a couple of extra days to allow for some rest and recuperation.

There’s a lot of driving involved (up to five hours a day in eastern Bhutan) but it should now be possible to fly back to Paro from Yongphula (near Trashigang). You could also avoid the long drive back to Paro by exiting Bhutan at Samdrup Jongkhar, as long as you have arranged an Indian visa in advance. This is a particularly good trip if you’re interested in traditional weaving.

Follow the earlier itineraries from Paro as far as Bumthang (or fly there), from where you can see the highlights of the east in five or six days. From Bumthang, day one takes you on a dramatic drive over the Thrumshing La (3750m) and Bhutan’s wildest road to Mongar. Stay here for two nights and make a scenic day trip up to remote Lhuentse Dzong and the nearby traditional weaving village of Khoma. To cut down on the driv-ing, consider instead a day’s hiking off the beaten track around Mongar.

Day three takes you on to funky Trashigang, with an optional two- or three-hour detour along the way to Drametse Goemba, Bhutan’s most important Nyingma monas-tery. Accommodation standards in the east are not as good as western Bhutan, so bring a sense of humour as well as bug spray.

Figure on two nights at Trashigang, with another great day excursion to Trashi Yangtse, with stops en route at the pilgrimage site of Gom Kora, the old Trashi Yangtse dzong and the Nepali-style Chorten Kora. March and April bring two important pilgrimage festivals to this region. Spend a second day here to go crane-spotting in Bom-deling Wildlife Sanctuary or to hike via Dechen Phodrang pilgrimage site.

From Trashigang, it’s a full day’s winding drive down to the plains at steamy Sam-drup Jongkhar. From there, take a three-hour taxi ride to Guwahati (check in advance for planned strikes) then fly to Kolkata, Delhi or Bangkok, or take the overnight train to West Bengal for Darjeeling and the Nepal border.

16 DAYS

SamdrupJongkhar

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TrashiYangtse

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Khoma

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Eastern Explorations

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 44, 276-7,

see also individual locations

activities 277-8, see also archery, golf, trekking

agriculture 232air travel 288-90, 292Aja Ney 156altitude illnesses 298-9Amo Chhu 264animals 15, 20, 268-74, 14,

21, 269, see also birds, wildlife sanctuaries

golden langurs 15,268-9, 269

leopards, 15, 268-9 snow leopards 164, 269 takins 268, 272, 21 yaks 183archery 13, 55, 58, 237,

238, 13architecture 146, 256-62,

see also chortens, dzongs, goembas, lhakhangs

arts 12, 22, 249-55, 12, see also handicrafts

embroidery 251music 232, 235painting 12, 250, 251-2, 5papermaking 69, 251textiles 13, 252, 13weaving 13, 250, 252,

253, 13ATMs 282atsara (masked clowns) 9, 8Autsho 152-3

BBahitung Chhu 190Balakha 178-9

Bari La 190Barshong 184Bartsam 159bathrooms 285bears 272beer 132, 281begging 284Bhonte La 185bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 272-4, 14 black-necked cranes 15,

111-13, 164, 273birdwatching 15, 149, 277Black-Necked Crane Festival

26, 113blue poppies 99, 266Blue-fronted redstarts 14bodhisattvas 245-6, 245,

246Bodo groups 228Bogle, George 220Bomdeling Wildlife

Sanctuary 164, 271Bon 209, 241Bondey 94books 59, 206

animals 269, 272art 251 birds 273Buddhism 239 health 295history 218, 219, 221, 224,

229, 230plants 266, 267trekking 45

border crossings 290-2bowls, traditional

Bhutanese 251British in Bhutan 219-25Brokpas people 160Buddha Dordenma

statue 55Buddha, the 239, 241, 244-5Buddhism 207, 209, 231,

239-48, see also Guru Rinpoche

history 209-16

important figures 244-8 key concepts 240-2

monks 235, 242-3, 245, 247

prayer flags 243, 21 prayer wheels 250, 15,

29 rituals & etiquette 244,

248 schools 239-40 Wheel of Life 233, 241,

258budget 19, 35, 36-7, 282Bulay 200Bumdrak trek 176-8, 177Bumthang Cultural trek

195-7, 196Bumthang Dzongkhag

126-143Bumthang valley 12, 134,

139, 12bus travel 292bushwalking, see trekking,

treks, walksbusiness hours 283

Ccar travel 292-3carpentry 249caterpillar fungus 274cell phones 285Centenary Farmer’s

Market 16, 16central Bhutan 48,

120-145, 121climate 120highlights 121history 122travel seasons 120

Chachim 188cham 254-5Chamgang 176Chana Dorje 246Changangkha Lhakhang 54Chazam 157, 161Chebisa 187

cheese factories 132Cheli La 94, 96Chempsa 190Chendebji 122-3Chenresig 245Cheri Goemba 72, 74-5Chha Shi Thang 183Chhokam Tsho 184Chhokhortse Goemba 175Chhukha Dzongkhag 115-19Chhume 127Chhuzom 95-6Chhuzomsa 110children, travel with 278Chodeyphu 179Choechotse Lhakhang 176Choedrak 127Choeje Naktshang 154Chokhor Valley 134-40, 135Choki Traditional Art

School 72chortens 261-2, 262

Chendebji 122-3Chorten Kora 23, 163National Memorial

Chorten 55Chozo 193 Christianity 242Chukarpo 194cinema 206, 238climate 18, 278consulates 279costs 19, 35, 36-7, 282credit cards 282crime 285culture 206-7, 231-8currency 18, 19, 282customs regulations 279cycling 277, 292

Paro 84Punakha 105Thimphu 60

DDagala Thousand Lakes trek

175-6, 174


310

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EX D-H

Dajatsho lake 176Damche Gom 172Damchena 172Damnongchu 204dance 254-5dangers 284-5, 295-300Dangochang 182Danji 193Dechen Phodrang

(Thimphu) 59Dechen Phodrang (Trashi

Yangtse) 164Dechenchoeling Palace 72deities 246-7dengue fever 295-6Deothang 166-7Deothang Goemba 136diarrhoea 296digital photography 283disabilities, travellers

with 285Divine Madman 102,

213, 272Do Zam 138Dochu La 100Dochu La Wangyal

Festival 100Dodina 185Dolam Kencho 184Dom Shisa 184doma 233Dong La 202Dongney Tsho 179Dongzom 164Drak Choeling Retreat 139Drak Kharpo 95Drak Ngagpo 95Drametse Goemba 156Draphe Dzong 138, 197driglam namzha 236drinks 132, 279-80, 303driving 292-3driving licences 293Drolma 246Druk Path trek 172-5, 174Druk Wangyel tsechu 26Drukpa Kunley 248duars 220, 221-2, 264Duer 198Duer Hot Springs trek

197-9, 196Duksum 162Dungkhar 154-5Dungkhar Naktshang 154dzoe (spirit catcher) 235

Dzongkha language 301-6dzongs 256-7, 257

Dobji 100Domkhar

Tashichholing 127Draphe 138, 197Drukgyel 94Gasa 108, 190Jakar 128Lhuentse 153Mongar 150Paro 10, 77-80, 11Punakha 10, 104-5, 11,

29, 32Shongar 149Simtokha 75Trashi Chho 51-4, 16, 34Trashi Thongmoen 108Trashigang 158Trongsa 15, 123Tshenkarla 162

Eearthquakes 225, 264eastern Bhutan 48,

146-167, 147climate 146highlights 147history 148travel seasons 146

economy 207Eden, Ashley 221-2education 232electricity 279embassies 279embroidery 251emergencies 19, 304environmental issues

266-7, 274etiquette 34, 235-6, 248Eundu Chholing 126events 22, 32-4, see also

festivals, tsechusexchange rates 19

Ffestivals 22, 32-4, see

also tsechusBlack-Necked Crane

Festival 26, 113 Chorten Kora 23, 163dates 34 Gom Kora 23, 161Jampey Lhakhang Drup

25-6, 33, 130, 135Losar 23Matsutake Festival 143Ngang Lhakhang

Shey 26

Nomad’s Festival 23, 137Tamshing Phala Choepa

25Tour of the Dragon 278Ura Yakchoe 24, 143

films 206, 238fishing 277-8Folk Heritage Museum 59food 279, see also

individual locationshealth & safety 298language 303trekking 44

football 238forests 16, 266Four Friends fable 251Four Noble Truths 240-1fungi 274

GGala Pang Chhu 195galleries, see museums &

galleriesGamling 197Gamri Chhu 264Gangla Karchung La 192Gasa 190Gasa Dzong 108, 190Gasa tsechu 25gay travellers 281Gedu 115-16Gelephu 144-5geography 263-6Geynizampa 175ghos 236-7goembas 257-9, 258

Cheri 72, 74-5Choedu 94Dechen Chholing 142Dechen Phodrang

(Thimphu) 59Deothang 136Dhrolung 74Drametse 156Drolay (Dalay) 103Dzongdrakha 95Gangte 111Karma Thegsum

Dechenling 165Katsho 99Khuruthang 103Kunzangdrak 139, 140Lhodrak Kharchu 130Lungchutse 101Nimalung 25, 127Nyimalung 144Pelri 94Pelseling 139Phajoding 74

Prakhar 128, 8Rangjung Yoesel

Chholing Monastery 160

Senlung 152Talakha 74Talo 102Tamshing 138-9Tango 72-4Taphey 126Tengchen (Tinchock) 84Thadranang 74Thangbi 139Thangbi (Thankabi) 137Tharpaling 127, 139Trashigang 101Wangditse 74Yangthong 99-100Yongla 166

Goenkhang Chenmo 156Gogu La 188golden langurs 15, 268-9,

269golf 60, 278Gom Kora 23, 161-2Gomda 200Gorsam 200Gorsum 198Goyul 187Gross National Happiness

17, 206-7, 229, 230Guardians of the Four

Directions 259Gumbar Gang 201Gur 175Guru Rinpoche 9,

209-12, 247Gyalpo, Thangtong 96, 211

HHaa 97-8Haa Dzongkhag 96-100Haa tsechu 25, 98Haa Valley 17, 96, 98-9, 17Hamilton, Alexander 220-1handicrafts 47, 69, 70health 294-300

language 304trekking 171-2

hepatitis 296hiking, see trekking, treks,

walksHimalaya 263-4Hinduism 242history 208-30

books 218, 219, 221, 224, 229, 230

British in Bhutan 219-25Buddhism 209


311IN

DEX H

-M

modernisation 226-9Treaty of Punakha 225-6

holidays 284Hongtsho 100hot springs 108hot-stone baths 277houses, traditional

Bhutanese 260-1, 260

Iimmigration 285-7, 288incense factories 69, 95Indian nationals 36, 286,

291influenza 296insect bites & stings

299-300insurance 281, 294internet access 281internet resources 19

arts 255black-necked cranes 273health 295history 208music 253trekking 45

itineraries 27-31, 54

JJakar 126, 128-31, 148, 129Jampa (Maitreya) 134, 245Jampelyang 246Jampey Lhakhang 134-

5, 12Jampey Lhakhang Drup

25-6, 33, 130, 135Jangbi 203Jangchhu Lakha 173Jangothang 181-3Janye Tsho 173Japanese B Encephalitis

296Jaze La 193Jhomolhari 48, 94, 110Jhomolhari Loop (Soi

Yaksa) trek 185-6, 181Jhomolhari trek 39, 179-85,

181, 10, 265Jichu Drakye 182Jichu Dramo 193-4Jigme Dorji National Park

108, 270Jigme Singye Wangchuck

National Park 270Jili Dzong 172-3Jili La 172Jimilang Tsho 173Jowo Sakyamuni statue

15, 93

Juneydrak 98Jyongkhar 204

KKalekha 110Kanglung 165karma 242kayaking 278Keche La 193Khadey Gom 178Khaine Lhakhang 200-1Khaling 165-6Khaling Wildlife

Sanctuary 271Kharung La 166Khedo Tsho 184Khoma 154khuru 238Khuruthang 103-7kiras 70, 236-7Kizum 140Kohi La 190Koina 190Kori La 155Korphu 203Krishnagiri 166Kudra 203Kuenga Rabten 125-6Kulaypang 200Kuri Chhu 264Kuri Zampa 150Kurjey Drupchhu 136Kurjey Lhakhang 135-6,

210-11, 259Kurjey tsechu 25, 136Kyichu Lhakhang 15,

90-1, 15

LLabana 174Labana La 174Labatamba 175-6language 301-6langurs 15, 268-9, 269Langye Ja La 173laundry 281Laya 189-90Laya-Gasa trek 186-90, 187leeches 299legal matters 281leopards 169, 269lesbian travellers 281LGBTIQ travellers 281lhakhangs 257-9

Bondey 94Buli 126Chakhar 135Changangkha 54

Chhoeten 82-3Chhundu 99Chimi 103Choejam 141Chorten Nyingpo 127-8Damchen 113Dechenphu 72Drolma Zhingkham 72Druk Choeding 83Druk Wangyal 100Dukhor 134Dumtse 81Gangchen Nyezergang

75Guru 91, 95, 136Jaiphu 152Jakar 128Jampey 134-5, 12Jongsarbu 95Kanjur 156Khandroma 140Kharpo 97Khewang 113Konchogsum 139-40Kumbhu 113Kurjey 135-6, 210-11, 259Kyichu 15, 90-1, 15Larjung (Larjab Drakar

Choeling) 155Luege Rowe 136-7Mani Dungkhor 138Nagpo 97Narut (Pelphug) 142Ngang 137-8, 139, 197Nyzergang 108Pena (Puna) 81-2Phongme 160Rigsum Goenpa 164Sampa Lhundrup

136, 211Sangay 136Sarpa 53Sey 134Shamsul 142Somtrang 142Ta Rimochen 141Tago 94Tamchhog 95Tashichholing 123Thadra Ney 116Tseringma 156Tshering 95Ura 142Wengkhar 155Yakgang 150, 152Zangto Pelri 60, 136,

154, 166Zhambhala 127Zungney 128

Lhedi 192-3Lhuentse 153-4Lhuentse Dzongkhag 152-5Lhuentse tsechu 26, 153Limithang 188-9Lingmethang 149Lingpa, Pema 12, 102, 141,

214-15, 248, 255Lingzhi 183-4Lingzhi Dzong 187, 188literature 253, see

also booksLoju La 194Losar 23Lungsum 198Lungtenzampa 159luso 241

Mmagazines 234, 283Maitreya (Jampa) 134,245malaria 296-7maps 44, 169, 281markets 54-5, 83, 123, 16masonry 249Matsutake Festival 143Maurothang 195measures 283medical services 295meditation 60Membartsho 140-1Menjabi 201Menji 201Menlong Brak 166Merak 204Merak-Sakteng trek 203-4Metshina 101-2migoi 159Miksa Teng 204Milarepa 248mobile phones 285monasteries, see goembasmoney 18, 19, 282Mongar 150-3, 151Mongar Dzongkhag 148-52Mongar tsechu 26, 150monkeys 268monks 235, 242-3, 245,

247Monpas 204monsoon season 18, 25Moshi 166Motithang 175Motithang Takin

Preserve 16, 58-9motorcycle travel 292-3mountain biking, see

cycling

312

IND

EX N - S

mountaineering 180museums & galleries

Bhutan Postal Museum - Post Office 59

Folk Heritage Museum 59

National Institute ofTraditional Medicine

59-60National Museum 10, 81 National Textile

Museum 55Simply Bhutan 59Tower of Trongsa

Museum 15, 124-5, 14Voluntary Artists Studio

Thimphu 59music 232, 253musk deer 268, 274

NNabji 203Nabji trek 202-3Nagpo Chenpo 246Naktshang 155names 235-6Namgo La 177Namling 149Namling Waterfall 149Namseling 96Nangsiphel 137Narethang 192Narphung 166National Institute for the

Visually Impaired 165National Institute for Zorig

Chusum 55National Institute of

Traditional Medicine 59National Library 59National Memorial

Chorten 55National Museum 10, 81national parks & reserves

274, 270-1, see also wildlife sanctuaries

Chumey Nature Resort 127

Jigme Dorji National Park 108, 270

Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park 270

Phrumsengla National Park 149, 271

Royal Manas National Park 145, 271

Torsa Strict Nature Reserve 270

Wangchuck Centennial Park 270

newspapers 283Ngang Bi Rabney 138Ngang Lhakhang 137-8,

139, 197Ngang Lhakhang Shey 26Nimalung tsechu 25Nimshong 203Nine Sisters 202Nomad’s Festival 23, 137Norbugang 102nunneries

Karma Drubdey 126Kila 97Pema Tekchok Choeling

Shedra 140Sangchen Dorji

Lhendrub Choling 102Thekchok Kunzang

Choeden 160Zilukha 58

Nyelung Dechenling 113-14Nyile La 183Nyingmapa 210

OOgyen Chholing 197, 199Ogyen Chholing Palace 141Om Tsho 195Opagme 245opening hours 283Owl trek 197

Ppaan 280Padmasambhava, see Guru

Rinpochepainting 12, 250, 251-2, 5palaces

Dechenchoeling Palace 72

Kuenga Rabten 125-6Ogyen Chholing

Palace 141Ugyen Pelri Palace 84Wangdichholing

Palace 130Palden Lhamo 247Pam 165Pangalabtsa 175Pangri Zampa 72Panka 176papermaking 69, 251Paro 77-89, 82

accommodation 85-7activities 84

emergency services 89festivals 84food 87-8medical services 89shopping 88-9sights 77-84travel to/from 89

Paro Dzong 10, 77-80 213, 11

Paro tsechu 23-4, 84, 24, 237

Paro valley 89-94, 80-1, 90

passports 285-7, 288Pele La 110, 122Pema Sambhava

Lhakhang 140Pemagatshel 166Pemagatshel Junction 166Pemi 199-200, 201-2permits 286-7Phajoding 174-5Phenday Paper Factory 164Phephe La 197Phibsoo Wildlife

Sanctuary 270Phobjikha valley 111-15, 112Phokpey 199Phongme 160-1photography 34, 283Phrumsengla National Park

149, 271Phrumzur 203Phuentsholing 115-19, 118Pinchinang 166planning

Bhutan basics 18-19Bhutan’s regions 47-8booking your trip 35budgeting 19calendar of events 32-4children, travel with 278highlights 8-17internet resources 19itineraries 27-31tariffs 35tours 35-8transport 288-93travel seasons 18trekking 39-46

plants 16, 265-6, see also blue poppy, rhododendron

poaching 267, 274politics 206, 230poppies 99, 266population 207, 231postal services 284Prakhar Goemba 128, 8

Prakhar tsechu 26prayer flags 243, 21prayer wheels 250, 15, 29public holidays 284Punakha 100-7Punakha Drubchen &

tsechu 23, 105Punakha Dzong 10, 104-5,

11, 29, 32Punakha Dzongkhag 100-8Punakha valley 107-8, 80-1

RRabana 173rabies 297Radak Neykhang 109radio 283rafting 105, 278Rangjung 159-60Rangjung Kharsapani 105Raphstreng Tsho 193rashes 300ravens 273rebirth 241-2red pandas 272religion 207, 241, 242, see

also individual religionsrhododendrons 16, 100,

265, 16rigsar 232Rinchen Zoe La 194Rinchending 116-17Rinpung Dzong 10, 77-

80, 11Rinpung Goemba 176Robluthang 188rock climbing 60Rodang La trek 199-202,

200-1Rodophu 192Ronaldshay, Earl of 219,

220, 223Royal Botanical Garden

(Serbithang) 75Royal Botanical Park 100Royal Heritage Trail 198Royal Manas

National Park 145, 194, 271

Rukubji 122

SSAARC building 54sacred sites 22safety 171-2, 284, 294-300Saga La trek 178-9, 179Sakteng 204Sakteng Wildlife

Sanctuary 159, 271


313IN

DEX S

- TSakyamuni 244, see

also Buddha, theSalt trek 194Sambitang 197Samdrup Jongkhar 167Samdrup Jongkhar

Dzongkhag 164-7Sampa Lhundrup

Lhakhang 136, 211Sang Sangbe 200Sangchen Choekor

Shedra 91, 176-7Sangye Menlha 245sculpture 250Sengor 148-9Sephu 122Sey Dzong 186Shakshepasa 188Shakshing 202Sharna Zampa 180-1, 186Shelging Kharpo 211Sherichhu 156-7Shershong 156Shershong tsachhu 144Shing Karap 180Shingkhar 142Shingkhar Rabney 142Shodu 184Shomuthang 188Shugdrak 137Simkotra Tsho 173-4Simply Bhutan 59Simtokha Dzong 75Sinche La 189Singye Dzong trek 155snow leopards 164, 169,

269Snowman trek 191-5, 191soccer 238Soi Yaksa 185spas 20sports 238, see also

archery, golf trekkingSurey 144

TTa Gume Thang 184Tahung 197Takethang 182Takhung La 186Taki La 201takins 268, 272, 21Taktshang Goemba 9, 91-2,

211, 9, 255Taktshang Parking Lot 177Talakha 176Tale La 176Talung 178Tama 144

Tamshing Phala Choepa 25

Tang 197Tang valley 140-2Tangmachu 153, 200-1Tango Goemba 72-4Tarina 192Taupang 202taxes 282taxis 293telephone services 285temples, see dzongs,

lhakhangstextiles 13, 252, 13 see

also embroidery, weaving

thadamthsi 236Thaga 193Thakthri 204Thampe La 195Thampe Tsho 195Thangthangka 180-2Thanza 193theatre 254-5theft 285Thimphu 47, 50-75, 51-2,

56-7, 73accommodation 50, 62-5activities 60-1climate 50drinking 68emergency services 70entertainment 68festivals 62food 50, 65-7highlights 51hikes 74internet access 70itineraries 54medical services 70shopping 68-70sights 51-60, 75travel seasons 50travel to/from 71travel within 71walking tour 61, 61

Thimphu tsechu 25, 62Thimphu valley 16, 62,

72, 80-1Thimyul 155Thinleygang 101Thirteen Arts 249-51Thombu Shong 185-6Thongsa Thang 195Thowadrak Hermitage 142Thrumshing La 148-9Thungdari 156-7Tibet 216-17tigers 269

Tiger’s Nest Monastery 9, 91-4, 176, 211, 9, 255

Tikke Zampa 110time 285Tingtibi 144tipping 282titles 235-6Toencha 193toilets 285Tongtongphey 203Torsa Chhu 264Torsa Strict

Nature Reserve 270Tour of the Dragon 278tourist information 285tours 35-8Tower of Trongsa

Museum 15Tower of Trongsa Royal

Heritage Museum 124-5traditional dress 70Trashi Chhoe Dzong 51-4,

16, 34Trashi Yangtse 162-4, 202Trashi Yangtse Dzongkhag

161-4Trashigang 157-9, 157Trashigang Dzong 158Trashigang Dzongkhag

155-61Trashigang tsechu 26, 158travellers cheques 283travel to/from Bhutan

288-92travel within Bhutan 292-3trekking

accommodation 44booking 42books 45clothing & equipment

42, 43guides 44health & safety 171-2internet resources 45maps 44, 169meals 44pack animals 45planning 39-46responsible trekking 45routes 169-70trail conditions 42weather 39websites 45

treks 10, 20, 169-204, 40-1, 170

Aja Ney trek 194Bridung La trek 194Bumdrak trek 176-8, 177Bumthang Cultural trek

195-7, 196

Dagala Thousand Lakes trek 175-6, 174

Druk Path trek 172-5, 174Duer Hot Springs trek

197-9, 196Gangkhar Puensum Base

Camp trek 194Jhomolhari Loop (Soi

Yaksa) trek 185-6, 181Jhomolhari trek 39, 179-

85, 181, 10, 265Juniper trek 194Laya-Gasa trek

186-90, 187Merak-Sakteng trek

203-4Nabji trek 202-3Nub Tshona Pata trek

194Owl trek 197Rodang La trek 199-202,

200-1Royal Manas National

Park trek 194Saga La trek 178-9, 179Salt trek 194Shabjithang trek 194Singye Dzong trek 155Snowman trek 191-5, 191

Trongsa 123-5, 124Trongsa Dzong 15, 123-4,

14Trongsa Dzongkhag 122-6Trongsa tsechu 26, 124tsechus 9, 33, 34, 8

Druk Wangyel 26Gangte Goemba 113Gasa 25Gom Kora 23, 161-2Haa 25, 98Jakar 130Jampey Lhakhang

Drup 25-6, 33, 130, 135

Kurjey 25, 136Lhuentse 26, 153Mongar 26, 150Nimalung 25Paro 23-4, 24, 237Prakhar 26Punakha Drubchen

23, 105Thimphu 25, 62Trashigang 26, 158Trongsa 26, 124Wangdue 109

Tsepame 245Tshenden Incense

Factory 95Tsho Chena 193

314

IND

EX T - Z

Tshokam 173Tshophu 183, 185Tsochenchen 198tuberculosis 297Turner, Samuel 220-1TV 283typhoid 297Tzangkhar 160

UUgyen Pelri Palace 84Umling Mani 201Ungaar 200United Liberation Front of

Assam 228Upper Paro Valley

89-94, 90Upper Punakha Valley

107-8, 80-1Upper Sephu 195Ura 142-3, 148Ura valley 142-3Ura Yakchoe 24, 143

Vvacations 284vaccinations 294-5vegetarian travellers 279visas 285-7Voluntary Artists Studio

Thimphu 59volunteering 287

WWangchuck Centennial

Park 270

walking, see trekking, trekswalks 21, 84, 120, 164, see

also treksBumthang valley 139Dochu La 101Drak Choeling Retreat

139Gangte Nature Trail 114Kilkhorthang Trail 114Kunzangdrak Goemba

139Luege Rowe 139Lumitsawa Ancient

Trail 101Pelseling Goemba 139Phrumsengla National

Park 149Shashi La Nature

Trail 114Taktshang 92Tharpaling Goemba 139Thimphu 61, 61Ura–Geyzamchu

Walking Trail 142-3Wamrong 166Wangchuck, Jigme 226-7Wangchuck, Jigme Dorji

226-7, 229Wangchuck, Jigme Khesar

Namgyal 229-30Wangchuck, Jigme Singye

229-30Wangchuck, Ugyen 224-6Wangdichholing Palace 130Wangdue Phodrang 109-11,

109Wangdue Phodrang

Dzongkhag 108-15

warscivil wars 218-19Duar 223-5Tibet-Bhutan conflicts

216-17water 297weather 18, 278, see also

individual regionsweaving 13, 250, 252, 253,

13, see also textileswebsites, see internet

resourcesweights 283western Bhutan 48, 76-119,

78-9accommodation 76climate 76food 76highlights 78-9travel seasons 76

Wheel of Life 233, 241, 258White, John Claude 222white-bellied herons 273wildlife 15, 20, 268-74, 14,

21, 269 see also birds golden langurs 15, 268-

9, 269 leopards 169, 269 snow leopards 164, 169,

269 takins 268, 272, 21 yaks 183wildlife sanctuaries 270-1,

see also national parks & reserves

Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary 164, 271

Khaling Wildlife Sanctuary 271

Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary 270

Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary 159, 271

Woche 192women in Bhutan 233-4women travellers 287women’s health 300woodturning 251work 287

YYadi 155-7yaks 183yathra 133, 252Yeli La 184yeti 159Yoleng Chhu 198Yong Khola 149Yotong La 126

ZZangto Pelri Lhakhang 60,

136, 154, 166Zerim La 201Zhabdrung Ngawang

Namgyal 72, 74, 75, 215-18, 236, 248

Zhemgang 143-4Zungney 127-8


315N

OTES

316

NO

TES

317N

OTES

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319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving/SnorkellingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend



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bhutan - lonely planet · bhutan this edition written and researched by bradley mayhew, lindsay...

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