axolight
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Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com
AXOLIGHT Innovative lightening active ingredient
• Ecocert approved • New mode of action in melanogenesis
Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com 2
• The pigmentation of the skin results from the presence of eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (yellow-orange) in the epidermis
• Melanin is synthesized, in 4 steps, in specialised cells, the melanocytes, which transfer them to the keratinocytes.
Bio
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Maturation stages of melanosomes
into the melanocytes.
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AXOlight : ArabinoXylo-Oligosaccharides
Structure : Xylose chain substitued by Arabinose
Mean degree of Polymerization : 4
Str
uc
ture
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Fabrication process is composed in 5 major steps :
Raw material destarching (without solvent)
Enzymatic hydrolyse of hemicelluloses (specific)
Separation of arabinoxylanes
Purification
Standardization of the concentration
Pro
du
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n p
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ess
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In Vitro test- Protocol Normal human melanocytes are incubated 72 hours at 37°C, on a humid atmosphere with 5% of CO2. Incubation is made with: - Culture medium only - with Kojic acid at 0,003% (positive reference) - or with increasing concentration of Axolight Melanin dosage is measured with a spectrophotometer at 405 nm.
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis more efficiently than kojic acid
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Inhibition of melanogenesis
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis with a dose effect
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In Vitro test - Protocole Tyrosinase activity is quantified with a spectrophotometer, with L-DOPA (substrate of tyrosinase). After the action of the tyrosinase, L-DOPA is transformed in dopachrom which is a colored compound detectable by spectrocolorimeter at 490 nm.
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis via tyrosinase and another pathway
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Even though Axolight significantly inhibits melanogenesis, it is only partially due to its inhibition of tyrosinase indicating that it works in another metabolic pathway melanogenesis.
Inhibition of tyrosinase activity
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Me
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1. If tyrosine is at a low concentration, TRP1 can induce transformation of tyrosine in LDOPA.
2. The augmentation of LDOPA quantity induce the activation of tyrosinase.
3. TRP-1 forms a complex with activated tyrosinase to stabilize it and increase its activity.
References:
Human tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1)
Tyrp1 and Oculocutaneous Albinism Type 3
Human TRP-1 Has Tyrosine Hydroxylase but no DOPA Oxidase activity
Protein kinase C-b-mediated complex formation
(TRP-1)
1
2
3
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Ex Vivo test - Protocol Skin explants (33 year old Caucasian woman) were treated with different treatments during 10 days: - Application of a cream containing 3% of Axolight every 2 days - Irradiation by UV every day. Number of TRP-1 positive melanocytes is measured by immunolabelling
Axolight efficiently inhibits melanogenesis via TRP-1
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With Axolight positive TRP-1 melanocytes are reduced by 88%*
TRP-1 positive melanocytes
Composition of the cream with 3% of Axolight
Ingredients %
Xyliance 4
Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12
Aqua Qsp 100
Preservative Qs
Glycerin 1
Axolight 3
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Ex Vivo test - Protocol Lightness of the skin (L*) is measured by chromameter Measure of melanine is done by image analysis
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis and prevents UV-induced coloration
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Inhibition of explant color
> Axolight maintains luminosity of the skin despite UV irradiation
Visualization of melanin at D10 a. Control batch b. Batch treated with 3% of Axolight
a b
> Axolight reduces melanin quantity by 18%*
Composition of the cream with 3% of Axolight
Ingredients %
Xyliance 4
Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12
Aqua Qsp 100
Preservatives Qs
Glycerin 1
Axolight 3
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In Vivo test - Protocol Efficacy of Axolight is evaluated on a panel of volunteers (22 Asian-type women, medium age of 37 years old) Application twice a day during 56 days, on the forearm, of 1 cream with 3% of Axolight or 1 cream with 2% of arbutin. The coloration of the skin is measured with a mexameter and a spectrocolorimeter (A mexameter mesures melanin quantity; the lower the mexametric index is, the lighter the skin is.)
Axolight works faster than arbutin
Lig
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Variation of mexametric index (lightening effect)
91% of volunteers have shown a lightening effect (vs 82% for cream with arbutin)
Axolight presents significant results from 28 days.
Variation of luminosity L* vs D0
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Biodegradability
ECOCERT
Ecocert approved
Axolight is environmentally friendly
En
viro
nm
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Pourcentage de biodégradation par rapport à la DThO
Axolight is classified as readily biodegradable
Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com 13
Caracteristics
INCI Name: Water (and) Hydrolyzed wheat flour
Aspect : yellow to amber liquid
Odor: odorless
Preservative : none
Dosage : 2-3%
Cosmetic uses
Axolight is recommended in :
• lightening products
• Anti-aging products, for age spot prevention
• ECOCERT products
Co
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APPLICATIONS BENEFITS EXEMPLES
Sun Protection
PREVENT
Sun screen UV Protection
Age spot prevention
care
Day cream Night cream Cleansing gel Foam Lotion Mask
Whitening care
LIGHTEN Complexion lightening
Tinted cream nude make-up
After-sun EXTEND Cream