annual report 1997 - morningstar, inc
TRANSCRIPT
annual report 1997
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Board of Directors
Message from the Chairman
Corporate Governance
Management Committee
L’Oréal financial highlights
L’Oréal and the Stock Exchange
Highlights of the Year
International momentum
Human Resources
Administration and finance
Production and logistics
L’Oréal and the environment
Research and development
Cosmetics
Salon Division
Consumer Division
Perfumes and Beauty Division
Active Cosmetics Division
Other activities
Galderma
Lanvin
Pharmaceuticals
Synthélabo
insert:Consolidated financial statements
The report of the Board of Directors, thefinancial statements of the parentcompany, L’ORÉAL SA, and supplementaryinformation will be available upon requestfifteen days prior to the Annual GeneralMeeting.
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Contents
Founded nearly a centuryago by French chemistEugène SCHUELLER,L'ORÉAL has long been established as
the world leader in cosmetics.
The Group is also expanding its
business in dermatology and
pharmaceuticals.
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L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 1
Board of Directors
Lindsay Owen-JonesBritish.Joined L'ORÉAL in 1969. During his internationalcareer with the Group he was Chief Executive ofL'ORÉAL in Italy from 1978 to 1981 and Chairmanof Cosmair in the United States from 1981 to1984. Appointed Deputy Chairman and ChiefExecutive Officer in 1984 and Chairman andChief Executive Officer in 1988.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1984.GESPARAL Board Member.Board Member of the following companies: AIRLIQUIDE, BANQUE NATIONALE DE PARIS andLAFARGE.
Jean-Pierre MeyersL'ORÉAL Board Member since 1987.Vice-Chairman of the Board.GESPARAL Board Member.NESTLÉ S.A. (Switzerland) Board Member.
Liliane Bettencourt *Daughter of Eugène Schueller, who foundedL'ORÉAL in 1907.Vice-Chairman of the Board of GESPARAL inwhich she holds a controlling interest.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1995.
Françoise Bettencourt MeyersDaughter of Mrs Bettencourt.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1997.GESPARAL Board Member.
Peter Brabeck-LetmatheAustrian.With the NESTLÉ Group since 1968. AppointedGeneral Manager in 1992, then Chief ExecutiveOfficer of NESTLÉ S.A. (Switzerland) in 1997.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1997.GESPARAL Board Member.CREDIT SUISSE GROUP Board Member.
Pascal Castres Saint MartinJoined L'ORÉAL in 1979,Vice-President in charge of Administration andFinance since 1991, appointed Group ExecutiveVice-President in 1997.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1994.Vice-Chairman of the Board of SYNTHÉLABO.
François DalleWith L'ORÉAL from 1942 to 1984,Group Executive Vice-President in 1948,Chairman and Chief Executive Officer from 1957to 1984.NESTLÉ Board Member from 1974 to 1989and Vice-Chairman from 1986 to 1989.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1950.Vice-Chairman of the Board of GESPARAL.Chairman and Founder of INSTITUT DEL'ENTREPRISE, Chairman and Founder ofASSOCIATION ENTREPRISE et PROGRES.Chairman of the review HUMANISME ETENTREPRISE.
José DanielSpanish.With NESTLÉ from 1957 to 1997,General Director of NESTLÉ S.A. (Switzerland)from 1979 to 1997.Chairman of the Board of NESTLÉ Spain.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1982, his term willexpire in 1998.GESPARAL Board Member.
Marc Ladreit de LacharrièreWith L'ORÉAL from 1976 to 1991,formerly Vice-President in charge of Finance and Administration,Group Executive Vice-President from 1984 to 1991.Chairman of FIMALAC.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1984.Board Member of the following companies:CANAL+, CASINO, EURIS, FRANCE TELECOM,GROUPE ANDRÉ.
Guy LandonWith L'ORÉAL from 1953 to 1994,formerly Vice-President in charge of HumanResources,Group Executive Vice-President from 1991 to1994.Chairman and Chief Executive Officer ofARTCURIAL.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1989.Board Member of the EUROPEAN CENTRE FORCONTINUING EDUCATION.
Olivier Lecerf **
Joined LAFARGE in 1956,Chairman and Chief Executive Officer from 1974to 1989.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1990.Board Member and Honorary Chairman ofLAFARGE. Board Member of SAINT GOBAIN andMember of the Consultative Committee ofMORGAN STANLEY.
Helmut Maucher **
German.With NESTLÉ since 1951. Chief Executive Officerof NESTLÉ S.A. (Switzerland) until 1997. Chairmanof the Board of Directors since 1990.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1982.Vice-Chairman of the Board of GESPARAL.Board Member of BAYER AG andDEUTSCHE BAHN AG.
Edouard de RoyèreJoined AIR LIQUIDE in 1966, Executive Vice-President in 1979, Chairman and Chief ExecutiveOfficer from 1985 to 1995.L'ORÉAL Board Member since 1995.Board Member of the following companies:AIR LIQUIDE, DANONE, SODHEXO and SOLVAY.
Jacques P. ViziozJoined the BANQUE NATIONALE POUR LECOMMERCE ET l'INDUSTRIE (BNCI) in 1948, one ofthe founders of BANEXI in 1969. FormerlyExecutive Vice-President of the BANQUENATIONALE DE PARIS (BNP). L'ORÉAL BoardMember since 1967, his term will expire in 1999.External Management Consultant to companies.
Auditors
Pierre Feuillet Albert PavieSubstitute: Substitute:Olivier Thibault Michel Jouan
** Chairman of the Management and Remuneration Committee** Member of the Management and Remuneration CommitteeNote: directorships held in Group subsidiaries are not mentioned.
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2 Message from the Chairman
Message from the Chairman
In 1997, L'ORÉAL's performance was driven by
the increased pace of expansion in new markets,
stronger positions for our US subsidiary, which is
firmly established as the Group's second world
centre for creative strategy, and the return to
growth in Western Europe .
Pre-tax profit up 17%
The Group increased sales by 14.5%. It is
true that for the first time in five years,
exchange rates had a substantial favourable
impact, but underlying growth was nonetheless
8.4%.The rise in cosmetics sales was 8.6% which,
according to our estimates, was substantially
more than the increase for the world market.
Our very rapid sales growth, backed by intensive
cost reduction programmes, paved the way for
an 18.2% gain in operating profit and a 17% rise
in pre-tax profit, which outpaced growth in sales.
Despite a higher tax charge in 1997, L'ORÉAL
generated net profit before capital gains and
losses, after minority interests, up 12.8%
to FF 4.21 billion.
The United States
A second world centre for creative strategy
Our US subsidiary confirmed its status as the
Group's second world centre for creative
strategy alongside Paris, enhancing international
scope of brands inspired by the United States
such as RALPH LAUREN fragrances, REDKEN
5th AVENUE and MAYBELLINE NEW YORK. The
latter is successfully expanding into close to
twenty new markets with the ambition to
become mass-market make-up leader, rapidly
moving from regional to global brand status.
In addition, the United States made a strong
contribution to L'ORÉAL's growth with cosmetics
sales exceeding US$ 2 billion .The increase
expressed in French francs was nearly 23%.The
Group, which currently generates a quarter of
its sales in North America, has taken its place
among the front-runners in make-up, hair colour
and skincare in the United States.The acquisition
of the Canadian suncare brand, OMBRELLE, opens
the door to the US sun protection market. L'ORÉAL
has uncontested leading edge technology in this
strategically important business.
Return to growth in Europe
In several European countries, particularly in the
United Kingdom, sales rose at similar rates to
those recorded in new markets.We expanded
sales by nearly 8% in Western Europe, despite
slack consumer demand in France and Germany.
Another major move, as European markets
converge and the Group readies itself for the
advent of the Euro, was the acquisition of
interests not previously held in its Spanish
subsidiaries, meaning that L'ORÉAL now wholly
owns all its European subsidiaries.
At the same time we expect that in the next
three years, the share of sales generated in
Western Europe will drop to less than 50% of
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New innovations have paved the way for major
product launches, primarily Color Fusion from
REDKEN 5TH AVENUE, PLÉNITUDE FUTUR.e by
L'OREAL PARIS, as well as Elvive in the United
Kingdom,Teint Idole and Re-Source by LANCÔME,
Spirits by Carlos from HELENA RUBINSTEIN,
Express Finish by MAYBELLINE NEW YORK, Hydra
Detox by BIOTHERM, the Normaderm patch from
VICHY and the Lanvin L'Homme fragrance.
Hand in hand with this international expansion,
the Group rounded out its industrial facilities,
notably in China, Poland, and Brazil.Value analysis
initiatives were also continued during the year.
Synthélabo:
aiming to become a European leader
SYNTHELABO continued its growth in Europe,
with the objective of becoming a European leader
and increased its investment in research,
particularly genomics, which has high potential for
revolutionary technological breakthroughs.
SYNTHELABO generated turnover up 12.6% to
FF 11.7 billion and continued to improve
performance, recording an increase in attributable
net profit of FF 15.8%.
Confidence in the future
The confidence that we have in the future
outlook and success of our Group is based on its
key strengths of leading edge technology, the
international scope of its brands and the
commitment of employees to this great human
adventure.
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 3
Lindsay Owen-Jones
Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of L'Oréal
cosmetics sales, as a result of rapid growth in
emerging markets which already account for
more than 15% of sales.
Rapidly capturing
shares in new markets
We are continuing to step up our drive into
new markets with growth of 27% in Asia
excluding Japan, 35% in Latin America and 45%
in Eastern Europe, where the Group set
up two new subsidiaries in Romania and
Slovenia.
Despite the economic fluctuations experienced
by certain of these countries, we firmly believe in
their potential for rapid expansion, particularly in
Asia, where the Group currently generates less
than 6% of its total cosmetics sales. In China, for
example, we have invested in plant, started local
production and set the initial objective of
ensuring that MAYBELLINE make-up products are
available to every Chinese woman.
"L'Oréal, because I'm worth it"
Contrary to predictions that brands were on
the decline, their strength and attraction
for consumers remain growing factors of
the Group's success. Claudia SCHIFFER,
Andie MACDOWELL and GONG LI look out
from posters all over the world with the
message: "L'ORÉAL, because I'm worth it".This
campaign reflects our desire to position L'OREAL
PARIS as one of the world’s great brands,
irrespective of category.
Globalisation of brands depends to a great extent
on the competitive advantages offered by
our products.We have therefore once more
intensified our R&D initiatives. Our
laboratories are now organised around the
Group's key technological businesses: make-up,
colourants and haircare, skincare and sun
protection.
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4 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
Corporate Governance
The new-style presentation of the Board of
Directors in this Annual Report was adopted at
the Board's request to ensure that the
information provided is as clear as possible.
A collegiate Board structure provides the scope
for each Director to contribute fully to the
Company, bringing the benefit of his or her
specific experience and expertise.
The Board met five times in 1997. A special
meeting was held with the Statutory Auditors in
February to review the preliminary financial
highlights for 1996, before publication of the
provisional results.The conditions under which
consolidation is carried out at L'ORÉAL under the
supervision of the Statutory Auditors were
outlined in detail to the Board.
While Board Members were kept regularly
informed of L'ORÉAL's performance, this meeting
early in the year reflected the wish of the
Chairman to discuss the keynotes of the Group's
strategy and to put its financial performance into
perspective.The Board was thus informed of
Management's global vision and observed that the
resulting projects were perfectly in line with the
Group's objectives of international expansion,
enhanced profitability and value creation.
The Management and Remuneration Committee
met twice in 1997.The Committee, which is
chaired by Mrs. BETTENCOURT and comprises
two other members, Mr. Helmut MAUCHER and
Mr. Olivier LECERF, largely devoted its time to the
remuneration of Group officers and a new stock
option plan for senior management.The
Committee's proposals were subsequently
approved by the Board of Directors.
In February 1998, as in 1997, prior to the
approval of the accounts in April, preliminary
accounts were reviewed by the Board with the
assistance of the Statutory Auditors. Members of
the Board were able to assess the methods used
in drawing up the accounts as well as the quality
of the general system of control for the Group's
subsidiaries all over the world, for the Parent
Company and for consolidation systems.
Finally, the Board wished to reiterate the code of
practice for financial transactions on the Stock
Market, both for its own Members and for other
Group employees who have access to inside
information whether at certain times of the year
or in specific instances.
The Board of Directors will continue to move
ahead with efforts to contribute to the
stringency of audit procedures and to guarantee
transparency of financial information. As in the
past, the Board continues to review Board
membership, organisation and operation on a
periodic basis.
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Lindsay Owen-JonesChairman and Chief Executive Officer
Pascal Castres Saint Martin
Group Executive Vice-PresidentVice-Presidentin charge of Administration and Finance
Following the proposal ofMr. Lindsay Owen-Jones,Chairman and ChiefExecutive Officer, L'Oréal'sBoard of Directorsappointed Mr. Pascal CastresSaint Martin as GroupExecutive Vice-President.He takes over from Mr. Gérard Chouraqui whoretired on 1 December 1997after a career of 35 years withthe L'Oréal Group.Mr. Pascal Castres SaintMartin will retain his role asVice-President in charge ofAdministration and Finance, aposition he has held since 1991.
Alain Leprince-Ringuet
Vice-Presidentin charge of Salon Division
Mr. Robert Salmon, whojoined the L'Oréal Group in1963 and had been Vice-President in charge of theProspective since 1991,retired as of 1 January 1998.
Henry-Georges Muller
Vice-Presidentin charge of Active Cosmetics Division
Patrick Rabain
Vice-Presidentin charge of Consumer Division
Gilles Weil
Vice-Presidentin charge of Perfumes andBeauty Division
Jean-François Grollier
Vice-Presidentin charge of Research and Development
Marcel Lafforgue
Vice-Presidentin charge of Productionand Technology
François Vachey
Vice-Presidentin charge of HumanResources
Jean-Pierre Valériola
Vice-President in charge of CorporateCommunications and Public Relations
Functional Divisions
Operational Divisions
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 5
Management Committee
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6 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
L’Oréal financial highlights
L'ORÉALGesparal
As a percentage of 1997 sales by sector:
Cosmetology and Dermatology
Pharmaceutical and Medical Devices
Consolidated Group total (excluding other activities)
1997 Key data
Consolidated sales
Net profit before capital gains and losses and minority interests
Net profit before capital gains and lossesand after minority interests
Fully diluted earnings per share and investment certificate (FF)
Dividendproposed dividend per share and investment certificate (excluding tax already paid to French Treasury, or tax credit) (FF)
+ 14.5%+ 12.2%
+ 12.8%
+ 12.8%
+ 14.3%
60,347
4,225
3,728
55.15
14.00
69,120 (1)
4,739 (1)
4,206 (1)
62.21 (1)
16.00 (1)
Breakdown of share ownershipat 31 December 1997
Research costs
Highlights at 31 December 1997(FF millions)
03%14%05%
1996
1997
43,158
47,242
Total number of employees
1996 1997 96/97 Change
51%
MrsBettencourt
and her family
Nestlé
Public
49%
53.70% 46.30%
(1) dividend to be proposed per share and investment certificate (excluding tax already paid to French Treasury, or tax credit) to the Annual General Meetingon 26 May 1998
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L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 7
0.6%
1.1%
17%
81.3%
Consolidated net sales(FF millions)
97 + 14.6%96 + 13.2%95 + 11.4%
Consolidated Group sales
Breakdown of 1997 consolidated cosmeticssales by division00 000 millions de francs
Consolidated net cosmeticssales(FF millions)
Consolidated cosmeticssales (1)
Breakdown of 1997 consolidated sales by sector00 000 millions de francs
97 + 14.5%96 + 13.1%95 + 12.0%94 + 18.6%93 + 6.9%
+ 14.6%+ 52.6%+ 12.5%+ 15.1%
Cosmetics
Dermatology (1)
Synthélabo
Other
+ 12.2%+ 18.1%+ 12.0%+ 11.9%+ 14.0%
Salon Division
Consumer Division
Perfumes and Beauty Division
Active Cosmetics Division
Other Cosmetics
Consolidated net sales
Growth Growth
Growth
11.7%
26.9%
4.8% 1.4%
55.2%
93
40,61347,624
53,37160,347
69,120
94 95 96 97
43,280
48,988
56,163
95 96 97
(1) Including sales generated by agents, 1997 Group consolidated cosmetics salesstood at FF 58.1 billion. Details of these economic sales figures can be found in eachcosmetics division chapter later in the report.
(1) Share attributable to the Group i.e. 50%.
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8 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
Geographical breakdownof 1997 sales
1997 consolidated profit
Profit before taxation and employee profit sharing(FF millions)
European Union currencies (excl. FF)
French franc
Other European currencies
US dollar
Yen
Other currencies
25%
32%
4%
14%
4%
21%
1997 consolidated sales by currency
Cosmetics 5,878
Dermatology (1) 97
Synthélabo 1,752
Other 35
1.3%
22.6%
0.4%
75.7%
Consolidated profit before taxation and employee profit sharing by sector(FF millions)
Breakdown of 1997 consolidated cosmeticssales by geographical zone
25%
6%
13%
56%
93
4,493
5,3525,886
6,632
7,762
94 95 96 97
93
2,585
3,1213,381
3,728
4,206
94 95 96 97
Western Europe
North America
Asia
Rest of the World
+ 07.7%+ 21.7%+ 13.5%+ 37.5%
Net profit before capital gains and losses,after minority interests(FF millions)
(1) share attributable to the Group i.e. 50%
Growth
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L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 9
Balance sheet (FF millions)
Source and applications of funds(FF millions)
Capital expenditures(industrial, scientific, logistics)(FF millions)
Balance sheet, cash flows and capital expenditure
31,84035,409
22,49811,591
3,8992,794
30,099
64,813
16,354
76
35,066Net fixed assets Shareholders' equity
Minority interestsProvisions for liabilities and charges
Debt
Current liabilities
Others
assets liabilities
Stocks and debtors
Cash and short-term investmentsOthers
151
2,123
272
3,140
cash flow 6,766
3,354
4,492Net profit (before minority interests) Depreciable capital expenditure
Change in working capital requirements
Operating cash flowDepreciation
Provisions and other
93
1,508 1,5351,709
2,211
2,505
94 95 96 97
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10 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
As at 31 December 1997, L'ORÉAL's share capitalconsisted of 67,606,216 securities (67,590,379 sharesand 15,837 investment certificates) with a par value of FF 10.GESPARAL S.A. holds 53.7% of L'ORÉAL’s capital and70.4% of voting rights.
In the case of failure to comply with the disclosure requirementsspecified in Article 356.1 of the French Companies Act of 24 July1966 and Article 7, paragraph 1, of the Company’s bylaws, the sharesin excess of the relevant disclosure threshold may be stripped ofvoting rights.
(1) Index relative to L'ORÉAL share price.
Fully diluted earnings per share and investment certificate (before capital gains and losses,after minority interests) (4)(in FF)
1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Final adjusted closing price (2) 1,186.36 990 1,191.82 1,954 2,355
NetDividend per dividend 9.82 11.09 12.09 14.00 16.00 (3)share and investment certificate Tax credit 4.91 5.55 6.05 7.00 8.00 (3)for the year (2)
Total value 14.73 16.64 18.14 21.00 24.00 (3)
L’Oréal share performance (in FF) (base 100 as at 31/12/92)
L’Oréal and the Stock Exchange
Shares (monthly settlement market)(FF)
800
1 000
1 200
1 400
1 600
1 800
2 000
2 200
2 400
2 600
19971996199519941993
93
40.446.2
50.055.15
62.21
94 95 96 97
L'ORÉAL
share price
CAC 40 index (1)
(2) The above figures have been restated to reflect the one-for-ten bonusshare allocation decided by the Board of Directors as at 23 May 1996.(3) Proposed dividend per share and investment certificate (excluding taxcredit) to be approved by the Annual General Meeting on 26 May 1998.
(4) Restated to reflect the one-for-ten bonus share allocation decided bythe Board of Directors as at 23 May 1996.
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Highlights of the Year
Jean-Pierre ValériolaVice-President in charge of
Corporate Communicationsand Public Relations
JanuaryIsrael: the INTERBEAUTY subsidiary took over
responsibility for the Salon Division’s operations
in Israel.
FebruaryJapan: LANVIN signed a distribution and
manufacturing agreement with KANEBO.
MarchPoland: coming on stream of a plant to supply
markets in Eastern Europe.
LANCÔME launched Re-Source Lait-en-Eau™
moisturising body spray.
AprilHong Kong: L’ORÉAL sponsored an exhibition of
works of art from the Musée Guimet, Paris.
Korea: the KOBEL subsidiary joined the Salon Division.
China: start of construction of a factory at Suzhou.
MayLaunch of the new Lanvin L’Homme fragrance
for men.
JuneL’ORÉAL was awarded the “Revenu Français” Silver
Trophy for the Best Annual General Meeting.
Sydney: L’ORÉAL presented its research into the
effects of ultraviolet rays and sunscreens at the
19th World Congress on Dermatology.
L’ORÉAL PARIS signed an exclusive worldwide
contract with Claudia SCHIFFER.
July
Japan: the L'ORÉAL Art and Science Foundation
presented the PRIX L’ORÉAL award to two
Japanese research teams.
AugustSpain: L’ORÉAL increased its interests in its Spanish
subsidiaries to 100%.
SeptemberL’ORÉAL PARIS launched PLÉNITUDE FUTUR.e, the first
moisturiser containing nanosomes of pure Vitamin E.
OctoberRome: L’ORÉAL’s Research Department was
awarded first prize by the European Society for
Dermatological Research for its work on
incorporating Langerhans cells into models of
reconstituted skin.
Canada: acquisition of the OMBRELLE sunscreen
brand from DERMTEK.
New subsidiaries set up in Romania and Slovenia.
Argentina: opening of a LANCÔME Institute in
conjunction with Parfumerie POZZI, Buenos Aires.
NovemberLaunch of the L’ORÉAL Internet sites
http://www.loreal.com and loreal-finance.com
Announcement of the creation of the Helena
RUBINSTEIN award for Women in Science, in
partnership with UNESCO.
USA: the Clark plant in New Jersey was one of
38 US companies to receive an Environment
Champion Award.
DecemberChina: L’ORÉAL PARIS unveiled China’s largest
advertising panel in Shanghai.
India: creation of a Salon Division, alongside the
Laboratoires GARNIER business already established
in India.
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 11
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12 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
International momentum
L'ORÉAL worldwide
Increasing international scope of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and dermatological patents of the L'Oréal Group
Health and beauty are now worldwide markets.
The universal desire to achieve well-being is now
developing as an irreversible trend across the
globe, hand in hand with the growth in
expenditure devoted to such fundamental needs.
Every day, L'ORÉAL continues with the scientific
vocation and industrial enterprise begun in 1907
by its founder, the French scientist Eugène SCHUELLER,
who invented the first synthetic hair colourants.
Research initiatives geared to each individual
consumer contribute to ongoing innovation and
enhanced quality of the Group's cosmetic,
dermatological and pharmaceutical products.
With 47,000 employees and a world network of
400 subsidiaries, 100 agents and 60 manufacturing
plants, the Group's 500 brands enjoy recognition
on all five continents. Ninety years ago, the
company was initially established in Western
Europe, seventy years ago it moved into Latin
America, then into North America in the 1950's.
To round out this expansion it has moved gradually
into Asia, particularly over the last three years. From
haircare products, the Company has expanded into
skincare and bodycare, then perfumes and make-up.
The billions of articles produced are distributed
via every channel, from selective distribution to
mass market retailers, subject to their professionalism.
The Group's increasing international scope is
reflected by the constantly growing share of sales
generated outside France, up from 50% in 1987 to
80% in 1997.The Group continues to capture
market shares steadily every year.
Despite the usual economic ups and downs and a
fiercely competitive environment, L'ORÉAL continues
to push back the frontiers, attentive to the specific
expectations of all its customers, from Buenos Aires
to Shanghai and Helsinki to Dubai. Cross fertilisation
spans from one country to another and across
distribution channels, within the framework of a
policy dedicated to building "mega-brands".
As the year 2000 beckons, population growth,
improvements in the quality of life, modernised
sales systems and the appearance of new niche
markets such as cosmetics geared to younger
consumers or men, provide the health and beauty
business with unlimited scope for development.
In addition, the advance of dermatological and
pharmaceuticals sectors on international markets
is continuing unchecked.The Group has a
substantial foothold in strategic areas of both the
European and Worldwide pharmaceuticals
industry such as neurology, urology and
cardiovascular medicine via SYNTHÉLABO, as well
as dermatology with GALDERMA.
00
010
020
030
040
050
060
070
080
090
0100
Cosmetics Pharmaceuticals
Outside France
France
Dermatology
Growing international reach of L'Oréal business sectors(in %)
30%
26%
13%
13%
18%
World cosmetics market (estimated figures)
Haircare
Make-up
Skincare
Fragrances
Toiletries
0
1,000
2,000
3,000
4,000
5,000
6,000
7,000
8,000
9,000
1997199519931991198919871985
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CHINA
ITALY
UNITED STATESRUSSIA
ARGENTINA
CHINA
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14 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
Human Resources
François VacheyVice-Presidentin charge of Human Resources
• The international mobility of managers gathered
momentum in 1997 with more than 200 people
changing country or continent during the year.
These transfers, which offer those involved
an opportunity to broaden their experience
and skills, particularly enhanced the cultural
and national diversity of the L'ORÉAL employee
base.
• There was a sharp increase in both the scale and
the scope of recruitment: 750 future managers,
both junior and more experienced, of 59 different
nationalities, were recruited worldwide.
• To ensure that the quality of recruits matches
our ambitions for development, we again
extended and strengthened our relations with major
training institutions around the world. Initial
contact was established with the CEIBS Business
School in Shanghai and a case study of the
L'ORÉAL Plénitude brand was conducted by the
Harvard Business School. We also increased our
involvement in the CEMS (Community of European
Management Schools) network and became the
lead partner in the COPERNIC training project,
open to students from Eastern Europe. A bursary
created under an agreement with INSEAD in 1996
to encourage highly original projects was awarded
for the first time this year.
• Ongoing training and development continued to
expand internationally. Training programmes at
Group headquarters are drawing a growing number
of participants from other European countries,
from North and South America and from Asia.
In order to meet the needs of rapidly developing
markets, special training assignments were
undertaken in Eastern Europe and Asia, while
training centres are being set up in Asia and Latin
America.
• Promoting youth employment through apprentice
training schemes and helping to bring people with
difficulties back into the labour market are long-
standing features of L'ORÉAL's corporate culture.
Our initiatives in this area are geared to genuine
objectives and are realistically applied with the
resources available. Since 1993, the Group has
taken on 600 trainees in France and currently has
240 young people working on training
programmes. As in previous years, outstanding
contributions to apprenticeship training within the
Group were singled out for a L'ORÉAL
Apprenticeship Award. A L'ORÉAL Trophy for
exceptional initiatives to help the young
unemployed and the disabled was also presented
in 1997.
• A plenary session of the L'ORÉAL European Works
Council took place on 4 July 1997, where the
Group’s 30 personnel representatives, drawn from
11 European Union countries, were kept informed
of L'ORÉAL’s position in economic, financial and
employment terms and its prospects for future
development.
• The Group’s Human Resources Management
network was further strengthened by the creation
of new Human Resources Departments in several
countries, including China, Indonesia, Korea, Israel,
Russia and Poland.
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L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 15
Pascal Castres Saint MartinGroup Executive Vice-President
Vice-President in charge of Administration and Finance
Administration and finance
Financial PolicyL'ORÉAL moved to a net borrowing position in
1996 as a result of the acquisition of MAYBELLINE.
This situation continued in 1997, with the
acquisitions made in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals
and dermatology offsetting the inflow of cash
generated by operations.
In early 1997, L'ORÉAL subscribed to a substantial
increase in the capital of COSMAIR USA.This had
the effect of swapping the financing of the
MAYBELLINE acquisition from US dollars into
French francs, allowing the Group to benefit from
lower interest rates and the rise in the value of
the dollar against the French franc. Preference was
again given to short term borrowing in view of
low interest rates, particularly for the French franc.
Foreign exchange risk managementThe guiding principles which Group businesses are
expected to apply in intercompany transactions with
respect to currency risk management are as follows:
• companies exporting goods invoice in their local
currency
• royalties and dividends are paid by subsidiaries in
their local currency
• exchange rates for the forthcoming year are set
in September of the previous year and Group
companies are required, insofar as possible, to
hedge currency risks based on these "budgetary
rates";
• the Group's Treasury Department is responsible
for trading these forward rate agreements.
AdministrationThe implementation of new accounting software
was speeded up over 1997 so as to pave the way
for the introduction of the Euro and the advent of
the year 2000.This resource will be programmed
in such a way to make the transition as smooth as
possible.
At the same time, an Intranet network is gradually
being extended to all Group subsidiaries.
Particular attention is being given to Internet links
in order to ensure maximum security in terms of
Group information systems.
Financial InformationAfter the introduction of a shareholders' letter,
published three times a year, L'ORÉAL opened an
internet site (loreal-finance.com) in December
1997.The site, which is primarily aimed at financial
analysts and fund managers, contains all the
financial information released by L'ORÉAL as well
as providing real-time access to the share price
and the option to download the whole of the
annual report.
L'ORÉAL recruited Ms. Caroline MILLOT, a financial
analyst, to develop links with financial analysts and
fund managers.
The Company is giving growing importance to
shareholder relations, via the annual report, the
Letter to Shareholders and the many contacts
established at meetings such as the annual
accounts presentation in early April, the Annual
General Meeting in May and the interim results
meeting for analysts, in addition to financial
presentations in France and internationally.
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16 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
Production and logistics
Quality policyThe ISO certification procedure for our cosmetics
manufacturing plants continued according to plan
in 1997. Today, 17 plants hold ISO 9002, and five
have been awarded ISO 9003. This means that
82% of the Group's cosmetics production is
carried out in ISO certified factories. ISO
recognition of the Australian plant marks the first
certification for L'ORÉAL in this region. The
quality process for packaging design was
remodelled, placing us in a position to obtain ISO
9001 certification for all the Group's packaging
departments throughout the world.
Packaging research and new technologyIn keeping with previous years, the Packaging
Research department filed 65 patents for
cosmetics packaging. Make-up products made an
outstanding contribution to revenue expansion, in
particular due to rocketing sales of nail varnish
incorporating L'ORÉAL patented brushes.
The results of very active development in new
technologies included an advanced high-pressure
process for the production of nanoemulsions, and
a new manufacturing technology for lipstick. Our
CHIMEX chemicals plant started the production of
different types of nanocapsules to accommodate
powerful active ingredients in skincare creams.
Investments and new facilitiesCapital expenditure on production and logistics
for the Group was FF 1.21 billion in 1997. Our
Divisions stepped up expansion in emerging
markets. The manufacturing plant we acquired in
Poland began operating in March and will supply
Eastern European countries and Russia. In China,
we inaugurated the make-up plant acquired by
MAYBELLINE to supply Asian markets. We also
began construction work on the L'ORÉAL plant in
Suzhou, which will start manufacturing at the end
of 1998. In Latin America, we expanded our
Brazilian factory to cope with growing business.
The acquisition of UNISA in Chile gives us
resources for make-up manufacture which will
allow product launches in the southern part of
this continent.
Cost reductionHorizontal value analysis of our ranges, and
internal and external benchmarking have led to
significant cuts in production costs. As a result of
full harmonisation of the MAYBELLINE make-up
range, it is now possible to negotiate with our
suppliers on a global scale. The consequent
savings in costs are very substantial. Horizontal
value analysis has also led to reorganisation and
pooling of production. This is having a significant
impact on the added value of our factories.
Marcel LafforgueVice-Presidentin charge of Productionand Technology
51
6165
95 96 97
Number of patents filed for cosmetics packaging
850
1,100
1,210
95 96 97
Production and logistics investment in cosmetics (FF millions)
Brought to you by Global Reports
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 17
L’Oréal and the environment
The main ecological criteria at our production
sites registered new improvements on the already
high rates at which they had stabilised in 1996:
• Consumption of water fell by 6% compared with
1996, bringing the total reduction in six years to 56%.
• Energy consumption was also down by 7%, giving
a total reduction of 30% in six years.
• Recovery of transportable waste through re-use,
recycling or waste-to-energy conversion by
incineration reached 80%. This means that only
20% of waste is not recovered today, compared
with 50% in 1991.
AuditsThe Group continued its programmes of external
audits, carried out by consultants Coopers &
Lybrand. Sites audited in 1997 included Libramont
in Belgium, Clark in the United States, and La
Roche-Posay and Mourenx in France. By the end of
the year, 32 external and 35 internal audits had been
conducted at our 42 cosmetics production sites
worldwide.
Industry awardsThe Clark plant in New Jersey was one of
38 selected as "Environmental Champions" by
Mc Graw-Hill and the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA), for its exemplary
achievements under nine voluntary programmes
on waste disposal and the prevention of pollution.
Administrative sitesWhile administrative sites cause only minimal
pollution, L'ORÉAL nonetheless takes measures to
further reduce their impact on the environment.
Some examples are selective sorting of waste to
ensure maximum recycling, recovery of batteries
and cartridges, use of recycled ink-cartridges for
printers and recycling of computer equipment.
The deployment of electric cars to provide a
shuttle service between Group sites has proved
worthwhile, and by the end of 1997 the fleet
numbered 12 vehicles.
Internal competitions"Safety & Environment" competitions were started
for our industrial and administrative sites in 1993,
and in 1995 we added a point-of-sale promotion
competition "POS & Environment". These
contests reflect strong commitment to the
environment by our Divisions around the world
(with 63 entries in 1997), and are an important
source of information for the Group on the
environmental protection initiatives being taken.
Details of the best projects are circulated to all
the Group's Environment Managers. Each year,
L'Oréal Management invites the winners of the
three competitions to an awards ceremony in
Paris.
CommunicationsA comprehensive section on the environment can
be consulted on the new L'ORÉAL Internet site
(address: www.loreal.com).
22%
31%
27%
3%
17%
Treatment of transportablewaste 1997
Recovery 80%
22% Re-use
31% Recycling
27% Waste-to-energy conversion
03% Destruction
17% Landfill disposal
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18 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
Research and development
L'ORÉAL's innovative approach to Cosmetology
and Dermatology Research continued in 1997,
backed by a budget of FF 1.673 billion and with
more than 2,000 people employed in Group
laboratories.
In the make-up sector, new synthetic polymers
from our Advanced Research Laboratories led to
the development of non-transfer foundations. These
new formulae do not smear off on clothing, and
they give a pleasant sensation on the skin.
Another original polymer, Softex, has enriched the
texture of foundation formulae to give a
"microfibre" effect, with an aerated structure that
allows skin to breathe and offers optimal softness
and ease of use.
The benefits of Céramide R, an active restructuring
agent patented by our laboratories, have been
applied to mascaras to give added volume to
eyelashes.
The new exclusive "nanoemulsion" technology
enables very fine, all-over coverage and has been
adapted to bodycare products to create an
original deep-action moisturising cream with a
fresh, long-lasting effect.
In haircare, research into new setting polymers led
to the launch of soft-styling products that hold a
style while avoiding stiffness and maintaining the
natural bounce of the hair.
Our understanding of the causes of scalp irritation
has made it possible to develop new treatments
that offer greater comfort for sensitive scalps.
In skincare, the patented nanocapsule technology
successfully applied to day-cream treatments was
adapted to accommodate Vitamin A in the
formulation of a revitalising night cream.
Our experience in suncare products and our
observation of the ageing effects of UVA on skin
led to the development of a block for daily use to
protect skin against the harmful rays in daylight
which prematurely age skin.
The fund of experience gained over many years
in reconstituted skin made it possible to produce
skin prototypes containing new cell types
– Langerhans cells – which drive the skin's
immune responses. This biological advance will
soon lead to a greater understanding and
enhanced control of allergy-related skin complaints.
In 1997, 251 new patents and 7,018 international
extensions were registered.
Jean-François GrollierVice-Presidentin charge of Research and Development
1,8371,949
2,089
95 96 97
Number of employeesCosmetology research
1,3091,444
1,673
95 96 97
Cosmetology researchbudget(FF millions)
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Cosmetics
SalonConsumerPerfumes and BeautyActive Cosmetics
20
24
30
34
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SalonL’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL: Majirel, Crescendo, Diacolor, Epicéa Color - Dulcia, Argino 4, Animatic, Inter-Phase - Osmose - Tec Ni Art.INNÉ: Shampoo and conditioning range. KÉRASTASE: Nutritive, Spécifique, Sensitive, Résistance, Solaire. REDKEN: Prescription Hair Care, Cat,Fat Cat, One 2 One - Shades EQ, Color Gels, Color Fusion - Vector Plus - styling range.
TM
F U S I O NC O L O R
ADVANCED PERFORMANCE COLOR CREME
LONG LASTINGCOLOR
BALANCED PROTEIN CONDITIONEASY FLOW
CONSISTENCY
NEW!
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For the Salon Division, 1997 was a year of accelerated growth. Significantevents included the creation of special structures to establish our brands innew territories and to roll out REDKEN internationally.Sales for the division increased by 12.2%, with excellent performancesworldwide: up 30% in Asia (excluding Japan), up 25% in Latin America, up16% in North America and up 9% in Europe. Alain Leprince-Ringuet
Vice-Presidentin charge
of Salon Division
60.7%
13.0
%10
.0%
16.3%
Geographical Breakdownof Economic (1) sales(FF 7 billion)
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 21
L'Oréal Professionnel• The strategy for colourants, geared to greater
penetration of our brands Majirel, Majimèches,
Diacolor and Epicéa Color, was rewarded by a
spectacular 17% increase in sales, far outpacing the
rate of growth for the market. This was achieved
without any major product launches, and stemmed
from a marketing approach that offered salon staff
genuinely new services, attractive, modern
promotional materials and a unique range of
colour combinations.
This marriage of the latest techniques with
up-to-date fashion trends has raised salon hair
colouring to its highest professional level.
The year was also notable for the international
roll-out of Majimèches, one of our best-selling
salon products ever, to Asia, Latin America and the
United States. The worldwide acclaim earned by
Majimèches for its performance, cosmetic qualities
and ease of use, has elevated the status of the
highlighting offer.
• The Tec Ni Art brand was completely repositioned
with the addition of the new Flexible styling range,
based on advanced resin technology which will
finally allow hairdressers to set a style that lasts,
while conserving the softness and natural
movement of hair.
The triumphant US launch of Tec Ni Art has for the
first time established L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL in
the extensive American styling market.
• The leading products of the Osmose haircare
range, Vitamino Color for coloured hair and
Amino Perm for permed hair, also saw the benefits
of a major technological renovation in 1997.
Hairdressers now have access to the best
technologies to enhance the cosmetic quality of
technically advanced colouring services, which are
essential to their business.
• In the perm segment, which remains difficult, we
extended the launch of AHA-based Dulcia Tonica to
international markets. This gave a fresh stimulus
to the popular Dulcia brand and helped to capture
market shares from rivals.
The international promotion of Animatic was
extended to attract more consumers to this
highly original long-lasting perm.
• L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, true to its mission of
being the dynamic force behind the hairdressing
profession, accompanied its marketing drive with
new services to help salons develop their
business.
KérastaseKÉRASTASE sales grew by 12% in 1997, confirming
its stature as the world leader in haircare.
• Kérastase Sensitive, in a major innovation,
launched a new scalp massage and treatment
service for salons.
• The Résistance, Solaire and Nutritive ranges all saw
the addition of new products based on
innovations from L'ORÉAL's Advanced Research
Laboratories.
60.7% Western Europe
13.0% North America
10.0% Asia
16.3% Rest of the World
RedkenColor Fusioncream colourant.
➞
(1) Economic sales mean consolidatedcosmetics sales plus sales generated by agents.
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Tec Ni Flexiblestyling and soft holdfor hair.
Kérastase Sensitiveshampoo and conditioner forsensitive scalps.
L’Oréal Professionnel ParisMajimèches.
➞
22 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
43%
15%
13%
9%
20%
Breakdown of Economic salesby Product Category
43% Colourants
20% Haircare
15% Shampoos
13% Styling
09% Perms
• An anti-hairloss treatment with Aminexil was
launched in major European countries, backed by
a promotional drive which made it a huge success
in hairdressing salons.
InnéLaunched in 1995, the INNÉ brand made real
progress in 1997, spurred by innovative products
which were widely acclaimed by salons carrying
L'Oréal products. La Terre d'Argile, a clay-based
cleansing rinse for greasy hair, and cereal-based
products for dry hair added renewed dynamism
to salon services.
An immediate success when it was launched
in Italy, the INNÉ brand can now look to
further expansion through its Europe-wide
coverage.
INNÉ has also devised a highly original training
programme to help salon staff offer customers
first-hand experience of INNÉ products by playing
on their appeal to the senses and using a warm
and friendly approach.
RedkenIn the United States, REDKEN introduced a
number of highly innovative products inspired by
New York's dynamic, youthful, image.
The launch of a new cream colourant, Color Fusion,
provides stylists with a host of new creative
opportunities while enhancing REDKEN's position
in the colourants sector.
A relaunch of haircare ranges incorporating a new
protein complex, ICS (Interbond Conditioning
System), was acclaimed by both salons and
consumers.
REDKEN's international marketing reach was
extended with special structures in Italy, the
Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland and Chile,
which will implement its brand development
strategy.
The Salon Division is now structured around two
focal points for creative strategy and research:
Paris for L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, KÉRASTASE and
INNÉ, and New York for REDKEN.
Salon Division growth in 1997 was driven by
a three-fold strategy: pushing into new markets
notably through the opening of subsidiaries in
Korea, Israel and India; the use of a structured
marketing approach to broaden the base
of our distribution through new salons; and a
higher profile in salons, thanks to our multi-brand
policy.
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Brought to you by Global Reports
L’ORÉAL PARIS: Excellence, Elvive, Elsève, Elnett, Studio Line, Préférence, Casting, Féria, L’Oréal Perfection, Plénitude, Revitalift, FUTUR.e.Laboratoires GARNIER PARIS: Ultra doux, Fructis, Belle Color, Synergie, Neutralia, Movida, Ambre Solaire, OBAO.GEMEY PARIS: Gemey, Jean-Louis David, Harley Davidson,Vanderbilt, Daniel Hechter. MAYBELLINE NEW YORK. JADE.
Dop, Jacques Dessange, Mixa, Ushuaia, Narta, Cadonett,Vittel.
Consumer
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In 1997, the Consumer Division reported satisfactory growth of 11.2% on acomparable basis, and 18.1% on published figures.These results reflect the Division's continued drive to promote its brandsinternationally through mass-market distribution, and its dynamic policy oflaunching innovative products across the different regions of the world.The success of the Club des Créateurs de Beauté in the complementarycircuit of mail-order cosmetics was a contributor to this performance.
Patrick RabainVice-President
in charge of Consumer Division
As in previous years, new markets were highly
profitable with:
• 30% growth in Eastern Europe, particularly in
Russia where launches of make-up and haircare
products further expanded the market shares
gained in previous years;
• similar growth in Latin America, with the launch
of new colourant and make-up ranges;
• the first significant penetration of the Asian
market with colourants laying the foundation for
the L'ORÉAL PARIS brand, and with self-selection
make-up products.
Mature markets also performed well, with
double-digit growth in the United States and in
Western Europe, excluding France which now
accounts for only 22% of consolidated sales.
In the United States, the successful integration
of MAYBELLINE make-up spurred the Group into
the leading ranks of the cosmetics market, with
a sharp 14% rise in units sold, based on a
comparable structure.
In Western Europe, from Scandinavian to Southern
European markets, growth of over 10% far
outpaced the market
To finance its expansion plans, the Division
generated extra resources by cutting overheads
and manufacturing costs in both mature and
emerging markets. Substantial progress was made
in implementing unified packaging across the
Group worldwide, and in the application of
horizontal value analysis with a view to future
savings. As a result, the Division was able to
increase its marketing budgets with a focus on its
major world brands.
The Division reaffirmed its determination
to make L'ORÉAL PARIS a leading world brand
in all sectors.
With this in mind, several major advertising
campaigns to promote the L'ORÉAL brand name
were launched during the year. These used some
of the world's most beautiful women, drawn from
every continent in a series of television
advertisements, each advertisement ending with
the declaration "L'ORÉAL, because I'm worth it" in
the language of the target country.
Sales for Laboratoires GARNIER PARIS also
continued their upward trend in Europe and in
North and South America.
As part of an effort to diversify its brand portfolio
and to better reflect the drive for a global
culture, the Division extended its marketing of
the MAYBELLINE NEW YORK brand into another
20 countries, from China to Russia. The resulting
43% growth in business showed the true value of
the MAYBELLINE acquisition in 1996.
As in previous years, the Division launched major
innovations based on new technologies, patented
by its various laboratories. There was a more
even balance in the sales mix in 1997, with almost
50% of the Division's consolidated sales generated
by make-up and skincare products (that is,
excluding the contribution of haircare).
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 25
L’Oréal ParisFUTUR.e from Plénitude.
➞
54.6%
3.1%
17.3%
25.0%
Geographical Breakdownof Economic (1) sales(FF 31.7 billion)
54.6 % Western Europe
25.0 % North America
13.1 % Asia
17.3 % Rest of the World
(1) Economic sales mean consolidatedcosmetics sales plus sales generated by agents.
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L’Oréal ParisCréa-MèchesHair mascara.
Laboratoires GarnierAmbre Solaire Kids.
L’Oréal ParisElsève/Elvive.
➞
26 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
HaircareSubstantial progress in the quality of formulations
drove a 19% increase in units for Elsève/Elvive
shampoos worldwide. Aided by the new
Céramide technology, Elvive's UK launch was a
great success, capturing a 10% market share in
shampoos and conditioners in its first year.
Laboratories GARNIER's Fructis shampoo, with
active fruit concentrates, was launched in 1997 in
several European countries including Russia,
where it secured prime market positions.
In the United States, the L'Oréal Kids shampoo
initiative was a resounding success, and helped to
familiarise very young American consumers with
the slogan "L'ORÉAL, because we are worth it too!"
Make-upBacked by numerous innovations, the
MAYBELLINE NEW YORK and L'ORÉAL PARIS
make-up brands enjoyed strong growth in this
very profitable worldwide market.
Make-up overtook colourants in 1997 to become
the Division's leading sales contributor.
L'ORÉAL PARIS make-up launches included
Rouge Pulp, an ultra-glossy lipstick, Teint Captif,
a non-transfer, oil-free foundation, and
Crea-Mèches, a hair mascara to add coloured
highlights to hair.
Make-up launches by MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
included Express Finish, a fast-drying nail varnish,
Great Wear, a long-lasting non-transfer
foundation, and the mascara Volum'Express, which
sold well in the United States and throughout
the world.
The worldwide sales volumes achieved by the
continuing rise of these two strong brands has
improved the cost-effectiveness of expenditure
on Research and Development for make-up.
Hair colourantsA noteworthy feature of 1997 was the sharp
upward swing in sales of permanent colourants
to lighten hair where the superiority of L'ORÉAL
Group laboratories in haircare formulations
is unanimously recognised by consumers around
the world.
Excellence Crème colourant, with built-in hair
protector, was rolled out internationally and
increased its sales by 20%.
In Asian and Latin American countries, where
the majority of the population is aged below 30,
the Excellence Crème traditional offer of covering
grey hair for older women was carried a step
further, and the product was acclaimed by
consumers for its ability to subtly modify hair
colour and texture.The launch of L'Oréal Feria
Bleach + Color met with similar success in several
Asian countries.
After being launched in the United States,
Laboratories GARNIER’s Belle Color ColorEase Gel,
with a 20-minute development time, was
extended to Europe and Latin America, boosting
its sales by 36%.
52.3%
12.7
%
5% 4.1%
25.9%
Breakdown of Economic salesby Product Category
52.3% Haircare
25.9% Make-up
12.7% Skincare
15.0% Toiletries
04.1% Perfumes
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L’Oréal Kidschildren’s shampoos.
L’Oréal ParisRouge Pulp.
Maybelline New York/GemeyExpress Finish.
➞
28 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
The other colourant brands, Préférence, Récital and
Movida, achieved satisfactory performances.
SkincareThe market positions of the Plénitude Revitalift
anti-wrinkle and firming cream range were
strengthened in 1997 by the launch of an eye
contour cream and a night cream.
But the outstanding event of 1997 in moisturising
day-creams, which account for the largest share of
the skincare market, was the year-end launch of
PLÉNITUDE FUTUR-e.
Highly successful in Europe and the United States,
this innovation combines pure Vitamin E
nanosome technology with the Mexorxyl SX filter,
in easy-to-use cream and lotion formulations
which are rapidly absorbed by the skin.
Laboratories GARNIER added to the European
market leadership of its Ambre Solaire suncare
range by launching new sun protection products
for children, based on unique patented
photostabilising filters from L'ORÉAL’s laboratories.
The strategic acquisition of the OMBRELLE brand
at the end of the year means that it is now
possible to use certain L'ORÉAL sun protection
patents in North America.
Mail-order cosmeticsAt FF 670 million, consolidated sales in the
CLUB DES CRÉATEURS DE BEAUTÉ PARIS
Mail-Order Cosmetics sector were up by 33%
in 1997.
Growth was driven by a strong 20% rise in French
sales, and by the increasing pace of international
expansion, which saw sales in Germany double
to more than FF 140 million.
Belgium and the United Kingdom enjoyed robust
expansion, while the CLUB DES CRÉATEURS DE
BEAUTÉ in Japan, a joint venture with OTTO
SUMISHO, reported consolidated sales of more
than FF 50 million for its first year of operation.
Major initiatives contributing to this growth
included Performance C, a face cream by
COSMENCE, the AGNÈS B Antitrace non-transfer
foundation, the Sech'Express towel and Voile de
Fraîcheur by Jean-Marc MANIATIS, and, in perfumes,
Premier Rendez-vous by Michel KLEIN.
CLUB DES CRÉATEURS DE BEAUTÉ PARIS is jointly
owned (50% each) by L'ORÉAL and TROIS SUISSES,
and is consolidated by the proportional method.
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LANCÔME: Primordiale, Rénergie, Niosôme, Définicils, Rouge Absolu, Rouge Idole,Teint Idole,Trésor, Poême.BIOTHERM: Eau Vitaminée, Hydra-Detox, Biosource, Biosensitive,Tenseur Réducteur Rides, Aqua-teint.HELENA RUBINSTEIN: Force C, Face Sculptor, Spectacular Rouge, Generous Mascara, Softwear.FRAGRANCES: RALPH LAUREN, GIORGIO ARMANI, CACHAREL, GUY LAROCHE, PALOMA PICASSO, LANVIN.
Perfumes and Beauty Division
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The Perfumes and Beauty Division continued to reinforce its positions in 1997, particularly in skincare and make-up. Several major launches ofinnovative products based on new technologies gave a strong boost to salesof skincare and make-up products, while leading designer fragrances kept uptheir expansion.Total sales of the Perfumes and Beauty Division were up by 12 % on published figures, or 4.9% on a comparable basis. Gilles Weil
Vice-Presidentin charge
of Perfumes and Beauty Division
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 31
Lancôme1997 was a good year for the brand, particularly
in skincare (+6.3%) and make-up (+10.5%).
Highlights were the gains made by star
products and the success of innovative
launches.
Trading improved in European markets (+6%) and
new advances were recorded in Latin America,
Eastern Europe and certain Asian countries.
LANCÔME consolidated its positions in the United
States, despite fierce competition.
Sales of the Primordiale anti-ageing skincare line
continued to climb (+43%), reinforced by
Primordiale Nuit. This line was once again
LANCÔME's best-selling skincare product. Other
leading contributors to improved skincare sales
included Rénergie (+10%) and the Contrôle line
(+14%) backed by T-Contrôle.The launch of Blanc
Cristal, a LANCÔME range of products to make
skin appear paler, geared to Asian markets, was
very well received. Other high points of the year
included the launches of Soleil, a new suncare
range, and Re-source, a bodycare moisturiser based
on nanoemulsion technology, which was awarded
the Marie-Claire Prix d'Excellence.
LANCÔME make-up moved into leadership for
non-transfer products in several markets, notably
with the highly successful Teint Idole.The brand
revived its practice of targeted seasonal launches
which are very popular with younger consumers.
Trésor and Ô de Lancôme confirmed their positions
as classics fragrances in a market which is highly
sensitive to new product launches.
Prestige & CollectionsProducts launched nationally in 1996 (Polo Sport
Woman, Acqua Di Giò pour Homme, Eau d'Eden and
Tentations) were promoted worldwide in 1997,
which also saw the launch of Lanvin l'Homme.All
brands made strong headway in Latin America
(+18%) and the Middle East (+23%).
GIORGIO ARMANI
A year of brisk growth in sales (+23%) made
Acqua di Giò one of the market's leading franchise
brands in 1997. In September, Acqua di Giò
pour Homme was launched in the USA, where
it became an immediate top-selling fragrance
for men.
CACHAREL
After launching Eau d'Eden in 1996, this brand ran
a new advertising campaign to revitalise the image
of its leading fragrance, Anaïs Anaïs.
RALPH LAUREN
Polo Sport Woman continued to extend its
international reach. The worldwide success of
Polo Sport and buoyant sales of Polo and Safari for
Men confirmed the global strength of the RALPH
LAUREN brand.
GUY LAROCHE
Despite a difficult context, Drakkar Noir put in a
good performance and held onto its market
leadership in the United States and elsewhere.
PALOMA PICASSO
Tentations was launched in new markets, while
Mon Parfum is now established as a classic
fragrance.Helena RubinsteinAutumn/Winter seasonalpromotions: Spirits from Carlos Villalon.
➞
44.3%
10.3
%
14.7%
30.7%
Geographical Breakdownof Economic (1) sales(FF 15.6 billion)
44.3% Western Europe
30.7% North America
10.3% Asia
14.7% Rest of the World
(1) Economic sales mean consolidatedcosmetics sales plus sales generated by agents.
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LANVIN
Following on from the relaunch of Arpège in 1993,
Lanvin l'Homme was introduced, first on the
French market, and then in all European countries,
where it was given an excellent reception by
consumers.
BiothermBIOTHERM achieved a 15.4% rise in consolidated
sales in 1997, with strong overall growth (+11.8%)
in European markets.
New product launches contributed to the solid
performance of this brand:
• Hydra Detox, the first natural detoxifying
moisturising day-cream;
• L'Eau Vitaminée, a range of products with citrus
extracts to refresh, moisturise and revitalise the
skin;
• Profil Up, a deep-action gel to tone, firm and
smooth skin.
The brand reformulated its textures, gave added
freshness to the fragrances of its products, and
refocused its advertising.
Since 1995 the Biotherm brand has been rolled
out internationally and new advances in Asian
countries and Latin America reflected continuing
expansion in 1997. A sharp rise in sales was
noted in Japan at the end of the year. New markets
included Thailand, Singapore, Mexico and Russia.
Helena RubinsteinTotal world sales of Helena RUBINSTEIN increased
by 15.2% in 1997. Revenues were up by 10.5% in
Northern Europe and by 13% in Southern Europe.
Helena RUBINSTEIN confirmed its success in Latin
America with a 29.6% rise in sales. In 1997, the
brand expanded its Asian operations into Korea
and Taiwan. Business in Japan once again enjoyed
robust growth.
Product successes included:
• Force C, with Vitamin C, comprising Force C Cream,
Fluid and Complex. This is Helena RUBINSTEIN's
leading skincare range;
• Face Sculptor, the wrinkle refining Cream and
Serum, launched in October 1997;
• Tan Express, a self-tanning lotion from the Golden
Beauty range;
• the continued rise in sales for Helena RUBINSTEIN
make-up products (+17.9%), was due mainly to
lipsticks, nail varnishes, and mascaras (Generous
Mascara and Spectacular Mascara);
• Softwear, a "microfibre" cosmetic foundation,
which was given an enthusiastic reception. A new
Softwear "microfibre" loose powder was added to
this range;
• highly successful seasonal promotions developed
in conjunction with Carlos VILLALON.
OutlookThe outlook for international expansion remains
bright in Latin America, the Middle East and Eastern
European countries. Sales are evenly distributed
worldwide, which should enable the Group to build
overall growth at a steady pace, offsetting areas
where growth has become more uncertain, such as
Asia. Europe, which still accounts for a substantial
share of the Group's business, should remain a
growth market for all our brands.
New initiatives in skincare, make-up and perfumes,
and adjustments to take account of the changing
structure of retail distribution, augur well for 1998.
32 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
BiothermEau Vitaminée.
LancômeRe-source.
LancômePrimordiale Nuit.
LanvinLaunchof Lanvin L’Homme.
➞
42%
25%
1%
32%
Breakdown of Economic salesby Product Category
42% Perfumes
32% Skincare
25% Make-up
11% Toiletries
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VICHY: Thermal S - LumiActiv - LiftActiv - Normaderm - Quintessence - Lumineuses - Teint de Peau. Physio - Cellactia.Capital Soleil. Basic Homme. Capillaires Dercos.PHAS: Sécurissime AHA - Hydraphase - Respectissime Mascara/Eye make-up remover - Eclamat - Rouge Intense - Pur vernis.LA ROCHE-POSAY: Hydranorme - Physiane - Tolériane - Lipikar - Xeroderm - Eau Thermale - Anthélios.
Active Cosmetics
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VichySales for VICHY laboratories continued to grow in
1997, bolstered by the outstanding success of
highly innovative products.
LiftActiv, a treatment to reduce the appearance of
wrinkles, and Thermal S, a moisturiser containing
Vichy thermal water, were strong leaders in their
respective markets.
The hairloss prevention treatment, Dercos with
Aminexil, confirmed its huge success (2 million units
sold), as did the Capital Soleil suncare range which
was renovated in 1997.
Two major innovations launched this year pave the
way for further success: Normaderm Express, the
first anti-acne patch, and LumiActiv, a treatment to
counter skin-ageing caused by the sun. This is a
unique scientific advance in anti-ageing products.
The brand once again made substantial headway
outside Western Europe (+28% compared with
1996), in Latin America and Asia. In Central
Europe, the acquisition of the agent in Poland
reflects a policy of steady international expansion.
PhasA substantial increase in consolidated sales
in 1997 confirmed the status of PHAS in the
retail pharmacy sector as a distributor of very
high-tolerance skincare and eyecare cosmetics.
Product highlights in 1997 included:
• an extended colour palette for Pur Vernis nail
varnish;
• the launch of Sécurissime AHA.
• the launch of a new Respectissime eye make-up
remover in single-application sterile packs.
The brand continued to make gains in
international markets:
• operations begun in Portugal,Austria, Ireland and
Korea in 1995 and 1996 continued to grow at a
rate of over 30%;
• the brand's launch in Argentina was highly
successful.
La Roche-PosayA milestone for LA ROCHE-POSAY in 1997 was the
World Dermatology Congress in Sydney, where it
presented 12 scientific papers, reporting on the
latest research into the harmful effects of UVA
and on the effectiveness of Anthélios in treating
conditions such as benign sunburn or solar
urticaria.
Anthélios is increasing its share of the market and
is on its way to becoming the foremost suncare
brand in French pharmacies.
The strong-selling Tolériane range won the
accolade of the French mass-circulation press in
the form of the Marie-Claire Prix d'Excellence.
This brand performed exceptionally well in
international markets, doubling its sales in Italy and
Argentina.
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 35
Despite continued slow consumer demand in the retail pharmacy sector,the Active Cosmetics Division is enjoying renewed growth, while it goes onto strengthen its European market leadership and accelerate its worldwideexpansion.This positive trend has gained momentum from the repositioningof the VICHY and PHAS brands and from the success of recent launches ofproducts offering high added-value technology. Henry-Georges Muller
Vice-Presidentin charge
of Active Cosmetics Division
14%
11%
9%1%
65%
65% Skincare
14% Haircare
11% Toiletries
09% Make-up
01% Perfumes
Vichy LaboratoiresLumiActiv, a treatment to counter skin ageingcaused by the sun.
➞
1.6%
1.2%
9.8%
87.4%
Geographical Breakdownof Economic (1) sales(FF 2.8 billion)
87.4% Western Europe
01.6% North America
11.2% Asia
19.8% Rest of the World
Breakdown of Economic salesby Product Category
(1) Economic sales mean consolidatedcosmetics sales plus sales generated by agents.
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Dermatology
Galderma37
Luxury GoodsLanvin38
Brought to you by Global Reports
L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report 37
Galderma
Consolidated sales of more than FF 1.5 billion for
1997 reported by GALDERMA, the joint subsidiary
of L'ORÉAL and NESTLÉ, represented an increase
of 30% on a comparable basis and 52.6% on
published figures.
GALDERMA is building up its business in
treatments for diseases of the skin such as acne
and rosacea. The majority of its products are sold
on medical prescription.
The highlight of the year was the acquisition of
the German company BASOTHERM, dermatological
subsidiary of BOEHRINGER INGELHEIM laboratories,
in June.
This company merged with GALDERMA Germany
and now holds a substantial share of the German
market, the world's third-largest.
Differin Gel® for the treatment of mild acne
continued to attract great interest among
dermatology specialists. It was launched in many
new countries during the year, including the UK,
Brazil, Colombia,Australia and the Philippines.
After the launches planned for 1998, Differin® will
be available in almost 40 countries worldwide.
Other forms of Differin® (a solution and a cream)
are currently being registered with health
authorities, and will be marketed in 1998. This will
add even more to the reputation of Differin® as a
treatment for common acne.
GALDERMA also markets a successful range of
products to accompany dermatological treatments,
such as skin cleansers and moisturisers with
Cetaphil.
In international markets, GALDERMA has set up its
own organisation in Japan and China, where it is
registering products with the health authorities,
prior to marketing them.
Medical sales teams have been reinforced in most
of the Latin American subsidiaries to meet the
growing demand for dermatological products in
these markets.
Numerous registration applications for new
products have been filed, and should enable
GALDERMA to maintain a high rate of growth in
1998.
Galderma’s brands:• Acne: Differine gel (adapalene). Cutacnyl/Benzac
gel and lotion (benzoyl peroxide). Eryacne/
Eryaknen gel (erythromycin). Retacnyl cream
(tretinoin).Tetralysal capsules (lymecyclin).
• Rosacea: Rozex/Metrogel/MetroCream gel
and cream (metronidazole).
• Eczema - Psoriasis: Hydracort cream (hydro-
cortisone cream). Calmurid HC cream (Hydro-
cortisone + urea). Desocort/Desowen ointment,
cream and lotion (desonide). Efficort/Retef cream
(hydrocortisone aceponate). Psorigel gel (coal tar).
• Mycosis: Afongan/Fungisan cream (omoconazole).
• Alopecia: Neoxidil/Lacovin solution (minoxidil).
Ell-Cranell alpha (estradiol).
• Dermatological products: Cetaphil lotion, cleansing
bar, cream (cleanser and moisturiser for sensitive
skin). Ionax T/Ionil T shampoo (anti-dandruff,
seborrheic dermatitis). Nutraderm - Nutraplus
cream, lotion (moisturiser).
Publications for dermatologists. ➞
Differin, acne treatment gel. ➞
Galderma's booth at the World DermatologyCongress in Sydney.
➞
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Lanvin
Revival of the Ariane dress.➞
Lanvin accessories:Alice belts for womenRoland Garros panama
➞
38 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
While continuing its drive to update the brand
and broaden its appeal to younger consumers,
LANVIN has been expanding business in areas
where it is recognised worldwide for its expertise,
including men's ready-to-wear and tailoring,
women’s wear and accessories such as ties,
leather goods and fragrances.
The business, which has been rolled out
worldwide, enjoys a strong market presence in
Asia, the Middle East and Southern Europe as well
as France. Over the year, key contacts were built
to develop the business in Eastern Europe and the
United States.
In France, a new boutique was opened in April on
the rue Marbeuf in Paris.
The year saw the launch of the Lanvin l'Homme
fragrance, the signature of an agreement between
LANVIN and KANEBO in Japan regarding the
distribution of imported goods from the women's
range and agreement for two women's ready-to-
wear licences, a diffusion line, Lanvin La Collection
and a leisurewear line, Lanvin Golf.
The collections presented in August in Tokyo were
very well received by buyers and judging from
initial orders, should generate a 20% increase in
sales for LANVIN with immediate effect from their
1998 launch.
At the same time, LANVIN signed an agreement
with KANEBO, providing for the opening of
15 boutiques under franchise over five years,
which will distribute products of the premier
women’s wear line and leather goods exported
from Paris.The first store was opened in
September 1997 in Osaka. Some of the remaining
stores will be the result of transfers of operations.
LANVIN Japan will take on direct operating
responsibility for two anchor stores of more than
300 sq. m in Osaka and at Ginza, in the heart of
Tokyo. In the Ginza building, which houses show
rooms and offices, the first four floors have been
given over entirely to sales of all products available
in Paris since 1998.
The opening of sales outlets of a smaller scale in
Hong Kong, under franchise in the People's
Republic of China and in Taiwan has allowed the
brand to weather the crisis in this region.
The boutique at 15 Faubourg Saint Honoré in
central Paris continued to increase sales.
LANVIN is pursuing its business development in
key sectors, in menswear with the new Lanvin
Sports and Studio lines (high fashion garments
which round out the Classique and Tradition
ranges) and in women's leather goods, where the
brand first introduced ranges in late 1996.
For womens' ready to wear, in November the
brand brought in a young Spanish designer,
Cristina ORTIZ, aged 31, who has spent the last
three years as Style Director with a major Italian
designer.
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Pharmaceuticals
Synthélabo40
The SYNTHÉLABO share is included in the SBF 120 index of
the Paris Stock Exchange and is listed on the first monthly
settlement market (Sicovam code 12 117). As at
31 December 1997, SYNTHÉLABO ranked 28th in terms
of market capitalisation on the Paris Stock Exchange.
On that date, the share price was FF 752, which was
an increase of 34% compared with 31 December 1996.
The SYNTHÉLABO Annual Report is available from:
Investor Relations, 22 avenue Galilée,
BP 82, 92355 Le Plessis Robinson Cedex, France.
Tel: (+33) 1 45 37 57 42. Fax: (+33) 1 45 37 57 33.
Brought to you by Global Reports
Synthélabo
Stilnox®
leading hypnotic worldwide.➞
40 L’Oréal 1997 Annual Report
SYNTHÉLABO, third-largest French pharmaceutical
group, reported 1997 turnover of FF 11,747
million, up 12.6%, or 6.9% on a comparable basis.
Sales of its top ten products, which account for
61% of pharmaceutical sales, increased 8.7% on a
comparable basis. SYNTHÉLABO operations
continued to expand in international markets,
which now represent 67% of its total business.
Net profit attributable to SYNTHÉLABO, before
post-tax capital gains and losses and goodwill
amortisation, increased 15.8% to FF 1,101 million.
SYNTHÉLABO specialises in three major
therapeutic fields: Central Nervous System,
Cardiovascular and Internal Medicine (Urology,
Gastro-enterology and Allergy). This specialisation
enables it to hold significant market positions in
each of these fields. It is reinforced by the
activities of ELA MEDICAL in cardiac pacing and of
PORGÈS in urological devices. SYNTHÉLABO also
markets OTC products - available without a
prescription in pharmacies - and generic drugs.
SYNTHÉLABO operates through subsidiaries in all
European countries, and through joint ventures in
the United States and Japan. The Group is
committed to developing in Europe with a view to
ranking among the top ten European groups. It
also develops its own molecules in the United
States and Japan and is breaking new ground in
emerging markets. New subsidiaries have thus
been set up in Asia, Latin America, Russia, and
more recently in South Africa.
Research is a high priority, focusing on
SYNTHELABO's three fields of expertise.
In 1997, 14% of total sales were devoted to the
implementation of new technologies and to
research and development of innovative products,
notably for the treatment of Alzheimer's
disease, thrombolysed myocardial infarction,
prostate cancer, stress urinary incontinence,
and nausea and vomiting induced by chemotherapy.
Top ten products and sales generated:Central Nervous System
Stilnox®: insomnia (FF 1,849 million).
Dogmatil®: neurotic and psychosomatic disorders,
schizophrenia (FF 815 million).
Tiapridal®: agitation, agressiveness (FF 415 million).
Solian®: schizophrenia, dysthymia (FF 254 million).
Cardiovascular
Tildiem®: angina pectoris, hypertension
(FF 1,033 million).
Kerlone®: hypertension, angina pectoris
(FF 466 million).
Internal Medicine
Xatral®: benign prostatic hypertrophy
(FF 599 million).
Primpéran®: nausea and vomiting (FF 295 million).
Semi-ethicals and OTC
Aspégic® and derivatives: fever, pain (FF 632 million).
Fluocaril®: oral healthcare (FF 261 million).
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Information on the L’ORÉAL share
L'ORÉALSICOVAM code or equity code:12032
Minimum lot 1 share
Traded on the Monthly Settlement Market of the ParisStock Exchange
The share is also traded on the London SEAQ
Unsponsored American Depository Receiptsare freely traded in the United States(1 ADR = 1/5 of a share)
Par value: FF 10
Price at 31 December 1997: FF 2,355
Market capitalisation:FF 159 billion at 31 December 1997 (Ranked third on the Paris Stock Exchange)
CAC 40:Part of the CAC 40 index. At 31 December 1997L'ORÉAL accounted for 5.72% of the index.
For more information:
Consult your bank, stockbroker or other financial intermediary
and your newspaper or Internet http://www.loreal-finance.com.
All shareholders requiring further information may contact
Mr. François ARCHAMBAULT, Group Director of International
Financial Information; Financial Analysts and Fund Managers may
contact Ms. Caroline MILLOT, Director of Investor Relations;
Journalists may contact Mr. Lorrain KRESSMANN, Director of the
Press Office.
Published by the Administration and Finance Division
and the Corporate Communications and Public Relations Division
of the L'ORÉAL Group in association with CARRE NOIR DESIGN,
Square Monceau, 82 Boulevard des Batignolles, 75017 Paris and
SDE CONSEILS EN INFORMATION, 84 rue Villiers, 92683 Levallois-
Perret, English language version: EURO RSCG OMNIUM & ASSOCIES,
84 rue Villiers, 92683 Levallois-Perret
This document is printed on unbleached paper.
Photographs: L'ORÉAL photo library, Stéphinie Pfriender,
Charles Purvis, Isabelle Snyder, Bradford Roman, O. Placet,
Jacques-Yves Guccia, Satoshi Saikusa, Bruno Dujardin, D. Tolstoi,
Christian Moser, Maria Lopez, Peter Lindbergh, Patrick Pipard,
Frédéric Maurel, Alessandro Parenti,Valérie Knight,
Mathiew Donaldson, Peter Blakely, Peter Knapp, Philippe Abergel
and X.
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Registered in France as a Société Anonyme with capital of FF 676,062,160 R.C. Paris B 632 012 100
Headquarters: 41, rue Martre, 92117 Clichy - France
Registered office: 14, rue Royale, 75008 Paris - France
http://www.loreal.comhttp://www.loreal-finance.com
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