ampersand magazine - novemeber, 2012 edition

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MODERN FARMERS | TABLE TOUR | NEW CHEF ON THE BLOCK NOVEMBER 2012 | A PUBLICATION OF THE RED & BLACK [AMPERSAND] THE ISSUE FOOD

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Ampersand Magazine - Novemeber, 2012 edition

TRANSCRIPT

MODERN FARMERS | TABLE TOUR | NEW CHEF ON THE BLOCK

NOVEMBER 2012 | A PUBLICATION OF THE RED & BLACK

[ A M P E R S A N D ]

THE

ISSUEFOOD

the club

lakeside apartments

athens’s premierstudent living

great location to campus + fully furnished apartments available + individual leases + full kitchens private bedrooms & bathrooms available + pet friendly + fitness center + roommate matching available

3AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

C O N T E N T S

November

6 Taste Test

7 Intro to Cooking

Southern Staples

12 Nutritious Bargains

15 Food: Out of the Cornucopia

Music: Delectable Downloads

11

20

20

21

28

Modern Farmers

Music: Table Tour

Fashion: Fall into the Season

New Chef on the Block

COVER SHOT

8

2012 &AMPERSAND MAGAZINE

WHO: Whitney Otawka, the head chef at local reastaurant Farm 255.

PAGE 28: A rising star in the Athens food scene, Otawka talks about her growth and culinary vision for the restaurant.

DOG DAYS: We shot our cover at Full Moon Farms, Farm 255’s produce source, and Otawka’s spirited pup came along for the fun.

COVER PHOTO SHOOT BY LINDSAY BOYLE

ON THE COVER

25 Allergic Reactions

GET INVOLVED WITH ON-CAMPUS PRODUCE

HANDS IN THE DIRTPAGE 12

PHOTO BY KAITLYN FRIZZELL

&AMPERSAND MAGAZINE

EXECUTIVE EDITORMAURA FRIEDMAN

MANAGING EDITORDARCY LENZ

DESIGN EDITORLOGAN PORTER

PHOTO EDITORLINDSAY BOYLE

FASHION EDITORMARGARET HARNEY

RECRUITMENT EDITOR

LYRIC LEWIN

JESSIE MOONEY

FOOD EDITORSDARCY LENZ

GINA YU

DESIGNERS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

PHOTOGRAPHERS

SHANDA CROWEKAITLYN FRIZZELL SAMUEL SUTLIVE

KENDALL THACKERKAVI VU

COPY EDITORMOLLY BERG

PUBLISHERHARRY MONTEVIDEO

EDITORIAL ADVISERED MORALES

BUSINESS MANAGERERIN BEASLEY

ADVERTISINGADVERTISING DIRECTOR

NATALIE MCCLURE

STUDENT AD MANAGERDANA COX

MARKETING COORDINATORS

CLAIRE BARRONJOSEPHINE BRUCKERPATRICK KLIBANOFFDEREK REIMHEREANDRE SUTTON

AD ASSISTANTLAUREL HOLLAND

PRODUCTION

CREATIVE DIRECTORDAN ROTH

CREATIVE ASSISTANTSSCOTT SOLOMON

CALEB HAYESBENNETT TRAVERS

COPYRIGHT 2012: NO PORTION OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE WRITTEN CONSENT OF THE PUBLISHER. THE RED & BLACK RESERVES THE RIGHT TO REFUSE ADVERTISING FOR ANY REASON. THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED BY WRITERS DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THE OPINION OF THE RED & BLACK OR THE UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA.

BEN BOWDOINJOHN MAYFIELD

OPERATIONS ASSISTANTASHLEY OLDHAM

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTLAURA HALLETT

ACCOUNT MANAGERWILL WHITE

ABBEY BOEHMERSARA DELGADO

JAKE GREENSARAH LAWRENCE

KARLA SCHOTTKC SMITH

AJ ARCHERANDY BARTON

CAITLYN BOHANNONRYAN CHERRYLORI KEONG BRITTINI RAY

GINA YUHANNA YU

ASSISTANT FASHION EDITORKIMMY KESLIN

ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR

FASHION TEAMASHLEY LONGTUKIO MACHINI

EDITORIAL STAFF

SENIOR EDITORCHARLES HICKS

DISTRIBUTION

CLASSIFIEDS MANAGERNATALIE LETT

4 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

75%–Core, 2011

of UGA undergrads

do not feel alcohol

makes people sexier.

over

Most UGA studentsmake low risk decisions

about alcohol.

uhs.uga.edu/aod/NCAAchoices.html

For Alcohol Awareness and EducationUniversity Health Center • University of GeorgiaA unit of the Division of Student Affairs

make smartchoices. be a

5AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

I love cooking: mixing different combinations of tastes and taste-testers around my stovetop. It’s all about balance– cut the sweet with some salt, creamy textures with a punch of crunch, old relationships with new companions.

Athens has no shortage of that all-important culinary balance. We’ve got places to round up fresh ingredients for nights at home (pg. 12) and iconic restaurants for meals out (pg. 8). As for twists, the Classic City boasts a young, tattooed and deliciously innovative head chef tucked away on Washington St. (pg. 28) And there’s room in the kitchen for everyone, whether you consider yourself ready to remix the classics (pg. 15) or a kitchen amateur looking for direction (pg. 7).

At Ampersand, we wanted to bring you our food issue this month because, considering the holiday at hand, November has always been a time to reengage with the experience of eating– those things beyond the meal.

Tables are places families connect, friends swap stories and strangers become acquainted. Plates hold people’s individual preferences and memories entwined with taste. There’s nothing quite as diversely nourishing as food.

Although we tried to bring you a well-rounded mix of everything edible, we’re sure there are a few ingredients missing. Tell us about your favorite recipes at facebook.com/ampersand.uga or share your favorite local restaurant @ampersand_uga. Or you know, we could just meet up for lunch.

Cheers,

LETTER FROMTHE EDITOR

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Send us feedback! We want your input on our publication. Send an email to [email protected] with thoughts, questions, comments or criticism.

Hazel

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Rosema

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Apple Pe

arToma

to

Honey

Chocol

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Fig

Eggplant

Mushroom

POtato

mint

dillSo

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eesesGoat  Ch

eesecaperslem

ons

gingeroran

ges

cardamom

rosemary

clove

cinnamon

chili

bacon

prosciuttobanana

coconut apricot

melonBleu  Ch

eese

Peanuts

honey

Almo

nd

LEAD-INS

6 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

If you are what you eat, most of us are predictable. But when tempted into the monotony of the single-ingredient shuffle, remember complimentary flavors. To get your brains (and your ovens) going, we’ve put together a flavor wheel. Just pick a flavor profile and pair the ingredients with a profile from across the circle. Fearlessly go where your taste buds have never gone before.By Gina Yu, Illustration by Sarah Lawrence

Peach, Love & HappinessSpread some Holiday cheer this season

with magical gifts from PeachMac.

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COOKBOOKSLEAD-INS

If you’re like most students, you like cooking meals that require minimal effort and use the least amount of ingredients. However let’s face it, easy meals aren’t always easy. Liberation didn’t come with a meal plan, and we must find alternative methods to sustain ourselves.

Cooking for Beginners

FOOD BLOGS Another way to upgrade your Rice-

a-Roni is to purchase a cookbook. “They take up less time but are still great way for learning new recipes,” said Matt Sawaengsuk, a sophomore from Atlanta majoring in finance. “From Pasta to Pancakes: The Ultimate Student Cookbook” by Tiffany Goodall caters to students’ taste buds, busy schedules and tight budgets. It includes a step-by-step recipe and picture guide to ensure fail proof cooking experience.

food blogs can also spice up your cooking routine. “When I first got off the meal plan, I was nervous about cooking,” said Ashley Hall, a senior psychology major from Coleman, Ga. “I always turn to the Internet for a last minute recipe.” Small Kitchen College is a food blog for college budgets and limited cooking expertise. There are even oven-free ideas for students who may have parted with the meal plan but not with on-campus residences.

CLASSES

Dondero’s Kitchen teaches step-by-step meals beyond typical collegiate staples. Head chef Tim Dondero models his classes for beginners. Students can learn how to cook a variety of dishes from different cultures including Thai, Malaysian and French cuisine. “My father is passionate about cooking,” said Anna Dondero, manager of Dondero’s Kitchen. “He expresses the things he has learned while traveling through cooking.”

7AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012STORY BY BRITTINI RAY

Dexter Weaver opened his restaurant for business on May 1, 1986, to general acclaim. However, R.E.M. catapulted the restaurant to fame in 1992 with the release of its eighth album, Automatic for the People, which was named after Weaver’s service motto.

“Automatic for the people means ready, quick and efficient,” said Weaver, who bought up his restaurant’s building after catering from home. “We try to be ready at all times, quick at service and efficient at what we do.”

After one of Weaver’s friends told him that Riverside Café had gone out of business, the local cook promptly found out who owned the building and bought up the space at 1016 E. Broad Street.

“We started remodeling and, you know, redoing the building, and it took us about two months to do all the construction to it,” he said. “Weaver D’s was born.”

Weaver describes the national and international attention the soul food restaurant received after the release of the album as “life changing.” “People were just traveling here from various cities…a lot of people coming from the UK. We just had so many tours coming. We had a publicist at that time. We had a 1-800 number at that time. The

postman, when he would come in, would just have bundles and bundles of mail for us from all around the world,” said Weaver, who has since also published a book, Automatic Y’all: Weaver D’s Guide to the Soul.

The quaint lime-green building still draws in R.E.M. fans from around the nation, but its fan base also includes curious students, interested Athenians, and those who have been frequenting the restaurant since its inception. Weaver said he isn’t letting it go to his head, though.

Soul FoodThough we often hear legends about the people who make our food, rarely do we get a chance to meet the men and women at the root of Athens’ staple eateries to piece together fact and fiction. That’s why Ampersand sat down with the people behind two of the Classic City’s most iconic restaurants to discover the origins of our favorite dishes and dining rooms.

LEAD-INS

STORY BY ANDY BARTON, PHOTOS BY LYRIC LEWIN

WEAVER D’S

MAMA’S BOY

Mama’s Boy is one of Athens’ best spots for brunch. Mama’s Boy co-owners, Alicia Segars and Cooper Hudson, purchased their Oak Street location in July 2006. The place had previously housed Fuel Coffee and a Laundromat, but the former employees of Last Resort Grill thought Mama’s Boy restaurant would be a good fit.

However, the restaurant’s proximity to a particularly outspoken next-door neighbor has marred its history at times. The owner of the vacant lot next to Mama’s Boy has periodically flown Confederate flags on his property which has caused some confusion for Mama’s Boy patrons. “The first year we were open, we didn’t have a sign…it made it even more confusing because—‘Southern fine-dining’[Mama’s Boy’s motto]—people thought, ‘Oh, they mean it that way,”

Segars said. “I get it. It’s his First Amendment right to do what he’s doing. It’s just hard as a business owner to communicate that to people that it’s not ours.” When the stars and bars are flying next door, the marquee on the Mama’s Boy sign frequently reads “not our flag.”

Though the modern Southern eatery now sticks to serving an approachable, non-pretentious brunch, it used to serve other meals as well. The restaurant served dinner and alcohol for a while but decided to stop when it didn’t prove to be profitable, Segars said. “I think there is a certain stigma towards this side of town, particularly at nighttime,” he said. “I think it’s also because it’s a destination, so if you’re going to go downtown for the night, why would you come here, eat, have a drink and then have to go downtown?”

An Athens restaurant icon since 2006, Mama’s Boy specializes in dishing out classic southern eats with modern culinary twists. The eatery operates Monday through Sunday from 7:00 A.M. to 3:30 P.M.

Through systematic efficiency and soulful flavors, Dexter Weaver has created a widely acclaimed dinning destination that has persisted with abundant vigor and fried chicken for over two decades.

8 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

“We’ve been around so long…and hopefully our

quality has only gotten better.”

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9AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

10 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

LEAD-INS

11AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

The past century emphasized growth in white collar job sectors, but fresh concerns for quality produce are drawing young people back to the land at the University and in similar programs across the country. They represent a new breed of farmer: one combining traditional work with modern education and business perspectives.

The New Faces

STORY BY CAITLYN BOHANNON, PHOTOS BY SHANDA CROWE

In the past, farmers passed their agricultural expertise down through generations, but this knowledge base is becoming less familial and more formalized as more young people seek degrees in horticulture, food science and technology, agricultural leadership and many others.

“One of the drivers is we simply don’t have youth growing up on farms anymore,” Dr. Doug Bailey, department head and professor in horticulture at the University, said. “Today’s youth have grown up in suburbia, but they feel an appreciation for the environment and want to contribute. Farming is a steward to the environment.”

A senior horticulture major, Colin Kirk, was drawn to the industry by increased consumer demand for wholesome produce, although he says consumer opinions are sometimes misinformed.

“We need to take notice of where our food is coming from,” Kirk said. “It’s not just about what is organic, which is just a marketing ploy in my opinion.”

Bailey says those looking for sustainable produce should focus on purchasing locally, which in turn supports the neighboring community.

“Local production has a smaller carbon footprint,” Bailey said. “It’s not the cheapest way to produce and obtain food; other locations may be more feasible but not as favorable to the environment. If you grow things locally, and aren’t shipping them, you can wait until products are actually ripe and they’re going to be more flavorful and higher-quality.”

With UGA’s organic certificate program, involving about 60 students, participants are apt and able to follow the trend. The certificate can be added to any major and requires 15 hours of study, involving a combination of classroom education and experimental, on-site projects in the field.

FUTURE GROWTH

Currently working in the Trial Gardens on campus, Kirk aims to be working in more unconventional agricultural outlets following graduation in May. He sees himself potentially relocating to Detroit, exploring the realms of urban farming or getting involved with community gardens.

Those with passion and career goals like Kirk are challenged by the many trials of getting started as a farmer, and they face potentially daunting statistics.

“Farming isn’t so much of a career as it is a livelihood,” Kirk said. “It’s a huge investment in time and money, and you won’t see returns until much later. You don’t pay $50,000 to get a job and then win it back, but that’s what you do with farming.”

Despite the challenges, the future of agriculture is back in the hands of the young. Degree programs like those at the University of Georgia are looking to continue that cultivation.

PLANTING THE SEED

of Farming

Colin Kirk, a senior horticulture major, works in the University greenhouses.

UGA Meat Sale Fridays 1 p.m. - 5 p.m. 425 River Rd. http://www.facebook.com/UGAMeatScience UGArden Produce Stand Thursdays 4:30 p.m. - 7 p.m. Workdays: Thursdays 4:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m. & Sundays 1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m. 2500 South Milledge Ave. http://www.facebook.com/ugardeners

Healthy on a Dime

12 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

LEAD-INS

STORY BY HANNA YU, PHOTO BY KAITLYN FRIZZELL, INSET PHOTO BY SAMUEL SUTLIVE

For local food on a budget, look no further than campus .The Sustainable Food Systems Lab, an extension of the University student organization, UGArden, produces local vegetables down South Milledge and the UGA Meat Sale takes place at the Rhodes Animal and Dairy Science Building off River Road. Both projects serve as educational and practical resources for local vegetables and meat while bringing together University students and the greater Athens community.

The UGA Meat Sale explains the intricacies of the meat-making process to customers to make people more aware of how their food is produced. For the meat sold at the University, the entire process occurs on campus. It starts at the UGA Double Bridges Farm Development, a University property on the east side of Athens-Clarke County that overlaps into Oconee County, and ends with processing and sale on East Campus. Cody Gibbs, a University student

who worked at a butcher shop in Perry and now works at the UGA Meat Sale. “There are classes for students on the meat process,” he said in reference to the group’s educational emphasis. Gibbs also said students don’t have to worry about the quality of the experience either. “We’re inspected by U.S. Department of Agriculture, so if we’re unethical, we would be shut down,” he said.

Fresh Picks

The Sustainable Food Systems Lab provides opportunities to learn about vegetables start as early as elementary school onward to college.

For younger students, Alps Elementary School helps teach students about food by hosting an afterschool garden nutrition program, according to UGA Professor of Horticulture David Berele. Also, the lab’s sister farm is located in Clarke Middle School and promotes focusing on improving cafeteria food. For older students, the lab hosts two freshman seminars. Berle explained that one seminar allows students to “plant a salad.” This process involves each student planting a vegetable and collectively creating a big salad for everyone in the seminar to share after the vegetables have grown. UGArden itself also hosts work days where students can help out with chores at the garden in exchange for fresh crops.

The lab also offers internship opportunities. Olivia Stockert, a junior landscape architecture major from Atlanta, is working with the lab this semester. “Local is more sustainable, environmental, supports farmers and is better for the Athens economy,” she said.

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Do You Gamble? If so, you may qualify for a research study on gambling behavior. Participation will include a telephone screen and one in-person assessment. You will be compensated $40 in cash for 4 hours of participation. Call (706) 542-5010 for more information. This study is being conducted by the Department of Psychology at

the University of Georgia

UGA project #2012-10452-0 Dr. Adam Goodie, Principal Investigator

Do You Gamble?❏ If so, you may qualify for a research study on gambling behavior.

❏ Participation will include a telephone screen and one in-person assessment.

❏ You will be compensated $40 in cash for 4 hours of participation.

❏ Call (706) 542-5010 for more information.

This study is being conducted by the Department of Psychology at the University of Georgia.

UGA project #2012-10452-0Dr. Adam Goodie, Principal Investigator

14 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

15AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

FOODTurkey Day Twists

Tradition: it’s in the holiday china, the butter-smeared index card bearing Gram’s family recipe and even in the cylindrical blob of un-canned cranberry gel.

Perhaps the most noble function food serves is as a sustaining vehicle for our familial and cultural traditions; and as what many would declare the most food-centric holiday on the calendar, tradition holds an undeniably critical seat at our turkey day tables.

That said, among our carefully preserved holiday rituals, most of us tote along played-out staples—those infamous dishes that appear around the holidays, simply because they’re supposed to. My question...Says who?

Maintaining monotony strictly for the sake of keeping with holiday protocol is no way to adorn this year’s Thanksgiving table. Even for the most under-exercised hands in the kitchen, contributing an impressive dish, void of canned cream of anything soup, to your family’s feast is completely within grasp. Starting with classic flavors of the harvest season, we’ve remixed four side dish staples of the archetypal holiday spread to create fresh renditions on time-honored traditions that you may one day be thankful to find in your recipe file.

By Darcy Lenz Recipes by Darcy Lenz and Gina Yu Photos by Lyric Lewin• •

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16 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

FOOD

Pumpkin Bread

Balsamic Green Beans with Mushroom & Mint

1 cup all-purpose flour1 cup yellow cornmeal1 tablespoon baking powder1 teaspoon salt½ teaspoons ground cinnamon¼ teaspoons ground nutmeg2/3 cups light brown sugar2 large eggs1 cup unsweetened pumpkin puree¼ cup vegetable oil1 tablespoon molasses

3 lbs fresh green beans, washed trimmed3 tablespoons unsalted butter2 tablespoons olive oil3 shallots, thinly sliced½ cup seasoned bread crumbs3 teaspoons finely minced garlic (about 3 cloves)8 ounces baby bella mushrooms, cut into pieces½ cup chopped fresh mint leaves, loosely packed1/8 tsp black pepper1 ½ tsp kosher salt2 tsp sugar2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the trimmed green beans and cook for 2-3 minutes, or until bright green. 2 Drain and immediately rinse with cold water; set aside. 3 Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium heat. 4 When butter has melted, add the shallots and garlic. Saute until shallots begin to soften, about 3 minutes. 5 Stir in the sliced mushrooms and allow to cook five minutes longer, until mushrooms begin to release their liquid and shallots are translucent. 6 Toss in the green beans, and turn the heat to high. 7 Cook until beans are heated through, about two minutes. 8 Add in the balsamic vinegar, sugar, mint leaves, salt and pepper. Saute about three minutes longer. 9 Remove from heat and toss in the bread crumbs. Serve warm.

1 Preheat the oven to 400 de-grees F and grease an 8-by-8-inch square baking pan. 2 Whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, spic-es and brown sugar. 3 In a small mixing bowl, light-ly beat the eggs; then stir in the pumpkin, oil, and molasses. 4 Mix the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients just until com-bined. 5 Pour the batter into the pan, smoothing out the top. 6 Bake 30 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. 7 Serve warm with butter.

Pumpkin’s potential spans beyond the pie crust– allow this autumnal icon

to lend depth to other aspects of your Thanksgiving spread. As far as green beans

are concerned, ditch the cans in lieu of fresh produce and boosting flavor vibrancy

with garlic, mint and the bright bite of balsamic vinegar.

REGULAR DRINKERS NEEDED FOR A RESEARCH STUDY

We are recruiting participants (ages 21-45) for an alcohol research study.

Participation will include one in-person assessment.

No treatment will be provided in this study. You will be compensated $40 for five hours of

participation. For more information, call (706) 542-6881 or

email [email protected].

This study is being conducted by Dr. James MacKillop of the Department of Psychology at the University of Georgia

DO YOU EAT SNACKS ON A REGULAR BASIS?

This study is being conducted by Dr. James MacKillop of the Department of Psychology at the University of Georgia

We are recruiting participants (ages 18-45) for a research study “Snack food liking: The effects of cues and mood”

Participation involves one session lasting 4.5 hours You will be compensated $45 for your participation Additionally, you may earn up to $115 based on your answers to

study questionnaires For more information, call (706) 542-6881 or email

[email protected].

17AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

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18 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

FOOD

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Spiced Bourbon Sweet Potatoes3 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch wedges1/2 cup packed dark-brown sugar1 teaspoon smoked paprika1/2 tsp cumin¾ tsp ginger¼ tsp cayenne pepper2 tablespoons bourboncoarse salt to taste¾ cups shelled walnut pieces4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and cut into pats5 ounces goat cheese

1 Preheat oven to 350 degrees and arrange the sweet potato wedges in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. 2 Add the brown sugar, spices and bourbon, then toss to combine. 3 Season lightly with salt. 4 Bake until sweet potatoes are tender and glazed, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, tossing the mixture every 30 minutes. 5 In the last 15 minutes of cooking, toss in the walnut pieces. 6 Remove from oven and gently stir in the butter. 7 Crumble the goat cheese over top before serving.

Have you had any really delicious meals on tour and in what state or city?

Christian: The most amazing thing I’ve ever eaten was at a Western Sizzlin’ somewhere in the middle-of-nowhere Mississippi. All you can eat for like 10 bucks. How can you beat that?

Have you ever had food in Athens and are you excited to try it?

Trey: We ate at Clocked burgers last time we played the 40 Watt... that place was delicious. And The Melting Point, which we played on our last tour, has great food too. My sister is a student at UGA and MCG so when I visit her we like to eat around town. Grit and Last Resort are two of my personal favorites.

The band has three members: lead vocalist Trey Rosenkampff, lead guitarist Graham Elder, and drummer Christian Ebetino.

“We got together around the fall of 2008,” Elder said. “I was playing with another band at the time and

knew Trey and our previous bassist, and we all had the same guitar teacher. I heard Trey play some of the songs he’d been working on, and I was really digging it. Christian was a friend of our bassist, and he came in to play around with us one day. His stuff fit the songs perfectly and the three of us have been rolling along ever since.” Asherel released their first EP under Columbia Records on October 30 and is on the road as part of the 2012 Bonnaroo Tour with White Denim and Maps & Atlases. We took the liberty of asking Asherel some questions about their food experiences while on tour in the past. They were happy to oblige.

When did you find out your band would be given the opportunity to be backed by Columbia, and what was your reaction?

Trey: It was pretty crazy how it all came together. We had just recorded our first EP, and our producer

Savory Truffle The Beatles

The White album

With the lyrics “Creme tangerine and montelimat,” The Beatles are referencing Montélimar, a village in southern France known for its nougat – a French candy made of sugar, honey, nuts and egg whites. The song continues, “A ginger sling with a pineapple heart. A coffee desert – yes, you know it’s good news,” eliciting our desire for sweet deserts in their gentle descriptions of candy. The lyrics are mouth-watering and the Beatles were still able to deliver their classic harmony-driven, smooth rock sound that wooed so many women in the 1960s.

This southern rock band fronted by the famous Billy Gibbons, known for his sweet Texas blues-rock licks and the famous song “La Grange,” were obviously hungry when writing this song.

With the lyrics, “TV dinners, there’s nothin’ else to eat TV dinners, they really can’t be beat,” the band either really enjoyed microwavable dinners, or they just ran out of things to write about.

Even though the lyrics are not profound, the songs still rocks with its up-tempo drum beat, overdriven bluesy rhythm and lead guitar, not to mention the catchy melody.

“TV Dinners” ZZ Top

Eliminator

Margaritaville Jimmy BuffetMargaritaville

The song shows the singer-songwriter’s ability to not only write entertaining songs, perfect a Florida vacation, but also to creatively work in a story about food and women.

In the song, he references sponge cake, boiling shrimp, his “lost shaker of salt” and of course a margarita.

It is hard not to be hungry while listening.

at the time told us that he had a representative from Columbia coming down to check us out. We basically set up our gear in a warehouse and played him the six songs we had…We ended up getting signed almost two years later.

Where did your recent summer tour hit?

Graham: The tour hit the Southeast, up the East Coast and a few cities in the Northeast. We’re pumped to hit the road again.

Do you have any crazy food stories from the road?

Trey: Our touring bassist and friend Vinny Restivo and I went to Shoney’s… it was Father’s Day, and on the Shoney’s signs there was a “free pancakes for dads” promotion…Vinny immediately asked our waitress if the promotion was still in effect, and after she said yes, Vinny, who is 19 and single, proceeded to tell her that he had a child and would like his free pancakes. We split them and had a nice free breakfast.

Dining with AsherelA local band talks food on the road

MUSIC

20 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

Tasteful Tracks: Deliciously Inspired Music

STORY BY RYAN CHERRY, PHOTOS COURTESY

FASHION

21AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

With colors this fall hinting at edible delights - cranberry and caramel, blueberry and plum - it’s no wonder they look best out of doors at a Victorian-esque

garden party. Splashed on paisleys, furs and tweed, this season’s must-have hues deserve a breathe of crisp and seasonal air, and there’s no better way than to plan for the outdoors. Shall we send for some tea?

On Lindsay: Velvet riding jacket, $135, Community. Printed Pixie pants, $188, Druzy drop earrings, $36.50, Druzy chain necklace, $29.50, Wilkes riding boots, $86.50, Private Gallery. On Tyler: Velvet blazer, $48, Goldenrod vest, $26, Dynamite Clothing.

FASHION

22 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

Photo left:On Tyler: Harris tweed blazer, $65,

Oscar de la Renta necktie, $25, Agora.

On Lindsay: Velvet bolero, $18, Dynamite Clothing. French

Connection Rita dress, $228, Druzy drop earrings, $36.50, Druzy chain

necklace, $29.50, Wilkes riding boots, $86.50, Private Gallery.

Photo right: On Lindsay: ruffle blouse, $24, Agora. Ralph Lauren skirt, $90,

Community. Druzy drop earrings, $36.50, Druzy chain necklace,

$29.50, Wilkes riding boots, $86.50, Private Gallery.

On Matthew: navy vest, $22, Wright plaid pants, $22, Dynamite Clothing. Yves St. Laurent necktie,

$25, Agora.

On Opposite Page:On Lindsay: Mink capelet, $199, Agora. Sultan silk dress, $39.50, Druzy drop earrings, $36.50, Wilkes riding boots, $86.50, Private GalleryOn Matthew: tweed vest, $24, taupe necktie, $12, navy pants, $12, Dynamite Clothing.

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FASHION

Table set: Pink velvet chairs, $2400 for set, Folding table, $795 (plus four chairs not pictured), Candelabras, $395, Antique phone, $95, 400-Day Anniversary clock, $195, Teapot, $35, Vintage books, prices vary, Vic’s Vintage, 768 West Broad Street.Picnic set: Record player, $145, Vic’s Vintage, 768 West Broad Street.

From left (clockwise): On Lindsay: Mink capelet, $199, Agora. Sultan silk dress, $39.50, Druzy drop earrings, $36.50, Wilkes riding boots, $86.50, Private Gallery. On Matthew: tweed vest, $24, taupe necktie, $12, navy pants, $12, Dynamite Clothing. On Lindsay: Velvet riding jacket, $135, Community. Printed Pixie pants, $188, Druzy drop earrings, $36.50, Druzy chain necklace, $29.50, Wilkes riding boots, $86.50, Private Gallery. On Tyler: Velvet blazer, $48, mustard vest, $26, Dynamite Clothing.

Molly Bond and Meaghan Cleary are on the same diet.

Marked off their mealtime possibilities are various kinds of grains, alcoholic beverages and certain processed foods — similar to the types of diets you see trending from time to time. But unlike most dieters, breaking their diet doesn’t change their weight or shift their confidence... it doubles them over. Both women are allergic to gluten. The two have celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder that has marked them from birth. The disease, which lies dormant in a gene until a traumatic experience, can manifest itself at any point in life. Physical trauma, changes in family life or bacterial infections can activate the gene.

Cleary, a freshman pre-pharmacy student from McDonough, believes her case was triggered by an incident of food poisoning she faced three years ago. After the gene began to function, any gluten that entered her system would “basically make the body attack itself ” — villi, tissue projections present in the small intestine present to increase the rate of nutrient absorption, begin to degenerate. In some cases, the situation can worsen further. “When they did an endoscopy of my duodenum, I had almost completely atrophy,” Cleary said. “But, after being on the gluten-free diet, they slowly grow back.”

During the healing process, the lack of villi produces adverse effects in those affected by the disease. Lack of nutrients cause other problems associated with malnutrition: “I obviously lost a great deal of weight — close to about 30 pounds,” she said. “I also developed anemia; I bruised easily, my hair started falling out, and I was really weak.”

Cleary had sorted out the specifics of dealing with her disease; however, upon moving to the unfamiliar Classic City and joining Pi Phi, she said her new sisters noticed she was not eating as often as some others and asked about her situation. “It comes up in conversation,” she said. “When you don’t eat anything, people are like, ‘Uh, what are you doing?’ So I explained to them and they were like, ‘Oh, Molly has that.’”

FEATURES

25AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

By AJ Archer, Photos by Kendall Thacker

Molly Bond and Meaghan Cleary

share the same sorority and food

allergy.

Bond, a senior history and Spanish major from Marietta, became Cleary’s ticket to navigating Athens gluten-free. She provided Cleary with a list of restaurants that were gluten-friendly and could accommodate the disease.“I kind of started that my sophomore year because I’d had friends telling me they had people coming from out of town who were allergic to gluten and were wondering where to eat,” Bond says. “Instead of just having to list off the top of my head, it was just easy to have a big Word document.” This sense of community, Bond says, is what has changed over the years. She was diagnosed with celiac disease when she was three and a half-years-old. Then, she said, celiac disease was far more uncommon.

“It was terrible in 1994,” she says. “Nobody knew about it when you went to restaurants and stuff. We’d have to talk to the chef — bring him out and take him through the whole process, because nobody knew.” Now, however, restaurants carry gluten-free menus and workers are more friendly and courteous about accommodating customers with the “gluten allergy” — a phrase Bond said she thinks has raised the importance of the issue. “Some people didn’t realize it’s serious — I will have a severe medical reaction,” she says. “When you say allergy, some people take it more seriously.”

Knowing this risk is why lists such as Bond’s are important to the growing community of celiacs — a group which includes about one in every 133 Americans. An increased push in awareness — even at the University level with Dawgs for Gluten-Free Awareness — has stimulated the conversation between celiacs who previously were not aware of one another. And there’s much to catch up on.

“Celiac disease is a weird networking tool,” Bond says. “It’s awesome to find people who actually understand celiac disease, and who have gone through the same difficulties with finding places and things to eat. It gives you an automatic bond. Now, instead of having to do all the legwork myself, I can just talk to other celiacs and have them introduce me to new restaurants and foods. It is quite a relief.”

Like many who live with celiac diesease, facing similar dietary challenges has brought Molly Bond and Meaghan Cleary togther to form a frienship based in common understanding and shared tips for coping with the disease.

26 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

Celiac disease is an autoimmune disorder that prevents the body from digesting gluten. The disease is genetic.

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FEATURES

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Fresh and vibrant produce adorn the plates as they pass from a kitchen exuding quiet intensity and passion. The rustic interior of Farm 255 seems to breathe with life. At the heart of the entire restaurant stands a down-to-earth chef who recently earned the title of Rising Star Sustainability Chef, Whitney Otawka.

Breaking BarriersIn most images of the conventional home kitchen, women are the ones who characterize the scene. In the culinary world, although the number of female head chefs continues to increase, they are still the exception. “I think when most people close their eyes and think ‘chef,’ they imagine a guy in a big white hat,” Otawka said. She does not boast a towering chapeau, but frequently dons colorful bandanas, complementing the equally vibrant tattoo artistry along her arms.

Initially, attaining the big white hat was not Otawka’s goal; yet her former boss and mentor at Five and Ten, Hugh Acheson, fostered her skills and encour-aged her towards an executive chef position.

“If you’re studying under someone else, you really have to take the time, put your head down,” Otawka said. “You need to work for them and study what they do.” For Otawka, Acheson created an intricate road map for becoming a successful chef. “And still to this day, he [Acheson] is up in the stars, and I’m at ground level itching to get up there with him,” she said. “He is like my incidental mentor. I don’t think he chose me... I sort of chose him.”

Even during Otawka’s participation in Top Chef season 9, amongst all of the celebrity chefs and star power, Ottawka said “Hugh being there was very grounding. It was reality, whereas everything else was distant.”Otawka notes that intense respect for her craft drove her to submerge herself into studying what makes a truly great chef. “Who was in the past, who is in the future, and who’s doing what--above all, why is it good?” she asks. Otawka says this is essential to know.

By Gina Yu, Photos by Lindsay Boyle

Chef Whitney Otawka at Full Moon Farms, the source of Farm 255’s produce, with her boyfriend and sous chef Benjamin Wheatley. (Far left) Otawka prepares fresh pasta for that evening’s dinner menu.

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30 AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2012

FEATURESChanging Farm HandsWith local meats and produce, Otawka unleashes her personal inspirations onto every dish, tipping her hat to a love of rustic Italian cooking, disciplined French technique and fresh Mexican flavors. In terms of her staff, Otawka takes extreme pride in her line of cooks and other restaurant employees. Collette Fahey, a waitress at Farm, definitely feels the effects of Chef Whitney Otawka’s presence.

“She does an amazing job of ensuring that every server understands the ingredients of a dish, how they work together, and how we can explain them to customers,” she said. “I really appreciate this open dialogue the front of house can have with Chef Whitney.”

The discourse is extended to everyone who enters Farm’s wood-paneled dining room, housing an open kitchen that provides customers access to the sights, sounds and energy of Otawka’s domain. Otawka holds a reputation for putting the customers first.

“She will create any beautiful plate to fit any customer’s dietary and preference needs,” Fahey said. “Gluten free, vegan, dairy free, everything... she will gladly add and replace components to a plate in order to make our patrons happy. It is really nice to serve happy patrons.”

Otawka’s Secret IngredientAlthough partnerships between chefs are becoming increasingly popular, deeper relationships beyond the kitchen are incredibly rare. Despite the odds, Otawka met her current boyfriend and sous chef, Benjamin Wheatley, while the two were working at Five and Ten.

“I always joke that I’m the showman of the business. I’m the face, while he is like my backbone,” Otawka said. “If any smart res-taurant owner wanted to steal something away, it would be my sous chef. But it would be impossible, because he’s also my boyfriend.”

Due to the time-consuming nature of a culinary career, they boast a relationship rhythm that creates a balance between their work and home life.

“He’s [Otawka] very thorough which is something I tend to get away from,” she said. “He is able to take all my ideas and make them a reality on the plate with the right balance.” It’s difficult to find a pairing that just works-- no fuss, no hassle. Otawka and Wheatley are complementary; like the final sprinkle of parsley or drizzling of olive oil, they are each other’s finishing touch.

“She helped me find my voice not only in managing a professional kitchen but also in life, Whitney strives for perfection every day in everything she does. These qualities have rubbed off on me, and I am a better chef for it,” Wheatley said. “And she also taught me how to make great pasta, I still always check with her to see when the dough is ready.”

Otawka at work in the open-air kitchen at Farm 255.

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